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 Country information

Train operator in Cambodia:

Chemin de fer du Cambodge (CFC).  No known website.

For bus information in Cambodia, try www.canbypublications.com/cambodia/buses.htm

 

 

Time zone & dialling code:

GMT+7.   Dialling code +855.

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£1 = 6,416 Riel.  $1 = 4,165 Riel.  Currency converter

Tourist information:

Tripadvisor Cambodia page    Map of train routes in Southeast Asia

Hotels:

 

Hotels in Phnom Penh & Cambodia

Visas:

Visas are required by UK, EU, US, Australian and most other western nationals.  Visas can be bought at the border points at Poiphet and Bavet, cost about £15/$25.  However, it can save hassle at the frontier if you buy an e-visa in advance online at www.mfaic.gov.kh/evisa for $25.  Cambodian embassy, London.

Page last updated:

3 February 2012


 Visiting Cambodia....

Cambodia now has no train service, but there are bus links to neighbouring countries.  As always, overland travel will be far more interesting than flying, as well as better for the environment, and the journeys will be as much part of your travel experience as the destination cities and sights.  This page will help you plan and make overland journeys by bus and train to, from and within Cambodia.

  Angkor Wat, Cambodia
 

Angkor Wat, Cambodia...

On this page...

International travel to or from Cambodia...

Bangkok - Siem Reap - Phnom Penh - Saigon  Across Cambodia between Thailand & Vietnam

Bangkok - Siem Reap (Angkor Wat) full details of the journey by train, bus & boat

Saigon - Phnom Penh full details of the journey by air-conditioned bus

Europe to Cambodia overland by Trans-Siberian Railway

Domestic travel within Cambodia...

Phnom Penh - Siem Reap by speedboat

Phnom Penh - Siem Reap by bus

Phnom Penh - Battambang by bus

Phnom Penh - Sihanoukville by bus

Phnom Penh - Kampot by bus

Other information...

Visiting the Angkor temples

Hotels in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap & Cambodia

Train service in Cambodia  Making a come-back in 2013?

Sponsored links...

 


 Bangkok - Phnom Penh - Saigon

  Train route map for Singapore, Malaysia & S E Asia - click to enlarge

Click for interactive route map

An overview of how to travel across Cambodia between Thailand & Vietnam...

It's easy to travel between Bangkok in Thailand and Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) in Vietnam across Cambodia overland.  It's cheap, and there's a lot to see on the way.  There are several ways to break up the journey, so here is a summary of the options.  Most travellers will want to go via Siem Reap to see the world-famous temples at Angkor nearby, and Phnom Penh is undoubtedly worth a stop as well.

Bangkok ► Siem Reap (for Angkor) ► Phnom Penh ► Saigon

  • Option 1:  The fastest journey from Bangkok to Saigon takes 2 days, 1 night.  Day 1, travel from Bangkok to Siem Reap using the morning train to Aranyaprathet and onward road transport, see here for details.  Stay the night in Siem Reap.  Day 2, take a morning bus from Siem Reap to Saigon, arriving in the early evening, see here for details.  However, doing this route in just 2 days won't give you any time to see the Angkor temples, so I'd suggest extending the journey to 3 days to give 2 nights and one full day in Siem Reap to visit Angkor.

  • Option 2:  Here is a less hectic option, taking 3 days, 2 nights and avoiding the long 12 hour bus ride from Siem Reap to Saigon required in option 1.  I also highly recommend the speedboat ride along the river from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh.  Day  1, travel from Bangkok to Siem Reap using the morning train to Aranyaprathet and onward road transport, see here for details.  Spend the afternoon in Siem Reap and stop over night there.  Day 2, take a bus (5 hours, details here) or better, the river speedboat (6.5 hours, details here) from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh.  Afternoon in Phnom Penh.  Day 3, take a bus from Phnom Penh to Saigon, see here for details.  This will only give you time to snatch a quick glimpse at Angkor Wat, I'd recommend stretching it to 4 days to give 2 nights and one full day in Siem Reap to visit the Angkor temples.

  • Either option can be done for as little as $39, hotels extra, or around $64 if you use the Siem Reap-Phnom Penh speedboat instead of the bus.

Saigon ► Phnom Penh ► Siem Reap (for Angkor) ► Bangkok

  • Option 1:  The fastest journey from Saigon to Bangkok takes 2 days, 1 night.  Day 1, travel from Saigon to Siem Reap on a direct morning bus, see here for details.  Stay the night in Siem Reap.  Day 2, take road transport to the border at Poipet and the afternoon train from Aranyaprathet to Bangkok, details here.  This won't give you any time to see the Angkor temples, so I'd suggest extending the journey to 3 days to give 2 nights and one full day in Siem Reap to visit Angkor.

  • Option 2:  Here is a less hectic option, taking 3 days, 2 nights and avoiding the long 12 hour bus ride from Saigon to Siem Reap required in option 1.  I also highly recommend the speedboat ride along the river from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.  Day  1, travel from Saigon to Phnom Penh on a direct morning bus (6.5 hours), see here for details.  Afternoon and over night stop in Phnom Penh.  Day 2, take a bus (5 hours, details here) or better, the river speedboat (6.5 hours, details here) from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.  Afternoon in Siem Reap.  Day 3, in the morning take road transport to the border at Poipet and then take the afternoon train from Aranyaprathet to Bangkok, details here.  Doing this route in 3 days will only give you a few hours to snatch a quick glimpse at Angkor Wat, so I'd recommend stretching it to 4 days to give 2 nights and one full day in Siem Reap to visit the Angkor temples.

  • Either option can be done for as little as $39, hotels extra, or around $64 if you use the Phnom Penh-Siem Reap speedboat instead of the bus.


 Bangkok to Siem Reap & Phnom Penh

Since the war in Cambodia, the railway line between Bangkok and Phnom Penh has only been running between Bangkok and Aranyaprathet on the Thai side of the Thai/Cambodian border, and (at least until 2009) between Battambang and Phnom Penh within Cambodia.  Train service across the border between Aranyaprathet and Battambang has been suspended for some years, although there is talk of restoring the complete Phnom Penh-Bangkok rail link in the next few years when Cambodia's railways are rehabilitated.  Although there are direct buses between Phnom Penh and Bangkok, this means a nightmare 15 hour bus journey.  Instead, a trip from Bangkok to Phnom Penh can be made in relative comfort over 2 days as follows, with a pleasant train ride instead of a bus for the part of the journey within Thailand:

Bangkok ► Siem Reap & Phnom Penh

  • Step 1, travel from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet by train, leaving Bangkok's main Hualamphong station at 05:55 every day and arriving Aranyaprathet 11:35.  The fare is just 48 baht (about £1 or $1.60), no reservation necessary, simply turn up and buy a ticket at the station on the day.  The distance is 255 km, 159 miles.  The train is 3rd class only, but it's clean, spacious and it's a pleasant and enjoyable ride, clickety clacking along with a breeze blowing through the open window.  There's also a 13:05 train from Bangkok arriving Aranyaprathet at 17:35, but this is a bit too late to move on from the frontier and you may have to spend the night at Poipet.  Useful tip:  This train also calls at Phaya Thai station at 06:10 (next to the Phaya Thai BTS Skytrain station) and Makkasan station at 06:20 (Makkasan railway station is not the same as the Airport Rail Link's Makkasan station, make that clear to your taxi driver).  Boarding at these stations can be more convenient if you're staying in northern Bangkok.

  • Step 2, take a tuk tuk from Aranyaprathet station to Poipet.  Aranyaprathet is only 6 kilometres (3.8 miles) from the Cambodian border at Poipet, and you'll find tuk-tuks waiting for you at the station.  Take a tuk-tuk from the station to Poiphet, cost 100 baht or perhaps 60 baht if you're good at haggling, journey time 10 minutes.  If you haven't already bought a Cambodian e-visa, tuk-tuk drivers may try and take you to a travel agency to buy a Cambodian visa at inflated prices.  This is no real problem, just say 'No' and insist that they take you direct to the border point and they will do so.  They may tell you it's an 'official' visa office, and official-looking people may even ask to 'see' your passport or visa, just ignore them and repeat that you want to be taken to the official border post, and you'll be taken there.  The official Cambodian visa office is after Thai exit formalities, between the Thai and Cambodian border posts.  So it's really very simple:  If you haven't had your passport stamped by a Thai border guard at the Thai border post and passed through the 'Angkor' arch (see the photos of these below), it ain't the official Cambodian visa office!  The official visa cost is $20.

  • Step 3, walk across the border.  The border is open 07:00-20:00, and Cambodian visas can be bought there if you haven't bought a Cambodian e-visa beforehand.  First get your passport stamped at the Thai side, then walk on for 100 yards under the 'Angkor' 'Welcome to Cambodia' archway to the Cambodian border post to buy your Cambodian visa, have your fingerprints scanned and your passport stamped.  Be careful with your valuables when crossing the border, in case there are pickpockets around.  The whole process should only take around 30 minutes, although at busy times it can take an hour or more.  At the exit from the border post onto the big roundabout, you will see (or be guided to) an official free transit bus to the 'Poipet Tourist Passenger International Terminal' 10 minutes down the road from where all the share taxis and buses leave for Siem Reap or Battambang or Phnom Penh.  This shuttle bus (and the man with the official badge who guides you to it) is legitimate.

  • Step 4, take a bus, minivan or share taxi from Poiphet to Siem Reap.  This is 152 km (95 miles) and should take around 2½ hours by share taxi or 3 hours by bus now that the highway has been improved. Prices are posted at the ticket counter at the Poipet Tourist Passenger International Terminal.  A shared taxi costs $12 for a seat or $48 for the whole car.  A bus costs $9, minivan $9.

  • Onwards from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh:  Spend a day or two in Siem Reap visiting the Angkor Wat temples.  When you're ready to move on to PP, there are two options, bus or boat.  There's a daily boat along the river from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh departing 06:30 and arriving 13:00.  Distance 251km, fare $35.  Alternatively, there are buses at various times throughout the day from 06:30 until about 12:30.  Journey time 6 hours, fare around $10, distance 314km.  Buses are run by several operators.  Some buses are double-deck, some have a WC & refreshments.

Phnom Penh & Siem Reap ► Bangkok

  • Travel from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap:  You can travel by bus (5 hours, $10) or more scenically and enjoyably by speedboat (6.5 hours, $35), see here for details.  Spend at least 1 night in Siem Reap and maybe visit the Angkor temples.

  • Step 1, travel from Siem Reap to Poipet by bus or private car:  In the morning take a private car, bus or share taxi from Siem Reap to Poiphet on the Thai frontier, it's around 152 km or 95 miles.  A private car will cost around $25 for 1 passenger for the whole vehicle, $40 for 2 passengers, and takes around 2 hours 25 minutes so you can safely leave just before 09:00.  An air-conditioned bus takes around 3 hours with departures from Siem Reap bus station (3 km east of the town centre) at 07:30 and 08:30, fare $9, with free hotel pick up prior to those departure times.  You can buy bus tickets or arrange a private car at any of the many travel agencies around town the day before departure.

  • Step 2, walk across the border into Thailand:  You'll be dropped at the entrance to the border point at Poipet.  Complete the passport stamping and fingerprint scanning at the Cambodian 'departures' office at the border entrance, then walk through the border, past the casinos, under the Cambodian 'Angkor' arch to the Thai border point 100 yards ahead.  Fill out a Thai arrivals card and get your passport stamped here and emerge from the border.  The whole process should only take around 25 minutes, although at busy times it can take an hour or more.  The border is open 07:00-20:00.

  • Step 3, take a tuk-tuk from Poipet to Aranyaprathet station.  Now you're in Thailand.  Find a tuk-tuk and take it the 6 kilometres (3.8 miles) from Poipet to Aranyaprathet railway station.  A tuk-tuk costs 100 baht ($3, £2) although you can bargain for a cheaper price if you're good at haggling.  If you need a meal or a beer, there's a simple and cheap Vietnamese restaurant at the road junction at the foot of the station approach, and there's an ATM up the road from the restaurant, simply turn your back towards the station and walk up that road about 300 yards.

  • Step 4, take a train from Aranyaprathet to Bangkok.  Two reliable trains a day run from Aranyaprathet to Bangkok, 255 km or 159 miles.  You should be able to make the 13:55 departure from Aranyaprathet, arriving Bangkok at 19:55.  The other train leaves Aranyaprathet at 06:40, arriving Bangkok at 12:05.  Both trains are 3rd class only, but they are clean and it's a very pleasant ride with a breeze blowing in through the open window.  The fare is only 48 baht (£1/$1.60), no reservation necessary, simply turn up and buy a ticket at the station.  The train also drops off at Makkasan (19:40) and Phaya Thai (19:46) before arriving at Bangkok Hualamphong, these can be more convenient stations at which to get off if you're staying in northern Bangkok.

Bangkok to Siem Reap & Angkor Wat, in pictures...

Bangkok Hualamphong station   Bangkok-Aranyaprathet train

Bangkok Hualamphong station.  Designed by an Italian architect and opened in 1916, your journey to Cambodia starts here, in central Bangkok...

 

The Cambodia Express...  It may not officially carry that name, but the morning train to Aranyaprathet takes you to within 6 kilometres (3.8 miles) of the Cambodian border.

3rd class car   The train from Bangkok arrived at Aranyaprathet

The Bangkok to Aranyaprathet train is 3rd class only, but it's cheap, clean and pretty comfortable with a pleasant breeze blowing through the open windows. Vendors sell food and drink, and there are toilets at the end of each car.

Aranyaprathet railway station   Tuk tuks outside Aranyaprathet station

At Aranyaprathet railway station, you'll find tuk-tuks waiting for you outside...

Tuk tuk between Poipet and Aranyaprathet   Thai side of the Thai-Cambodian border

It's just 10 minutes by tuk-tuk to the border...

 

This is the Thai border post, you start the procedures here...

'Welcome to Cambodia' archway at the Poipet border point   On the road between Siem Reap and Poipet
Welcome to Cambodia!  After passing through Thai exit checks, you walk under this 'Welcome to Cambodia' archway to the Cambodia border checks...   The road between Poipet and Siem Reap (for Angkor Wat) has been improved, and it's now a good road taking 2.5 hours by car or around 3 hours by bus...

Travellers' reports...

Traveller Cynthia O'Brien travelled from Bangkok to Siem Reap in 2010:  "Travelling from Bangkok to Siem Reap this way was much easier than I expected, after reading many older stories about this route.  I took the 05:55 train from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet, for 48 baht.  From the station at Aranyaprathet, I took a tuk-tuk for 60 baht to the border at Poiphet.  However, the driver made a detour to a travel agency, which is one of the visa scam places.  I already had an e-visa, which I would recommend to avoid the hassle at the border.  The salesman at the travel agency wanted me to go into his office to talk to him and asked to see my passport.  I refused to hand him my passport and the tuk-tuk driver drove me away quickly when I told other travellers not to get their visa at that place, but to get it from Cambodian immigration at the border, where it will cost less.  The biggest change from the older accounts is transportation to Siem Reap from the border. As soon as you cross into Cambodia, there is a stop for a free shuttle bus. Do not hesitate to take this free bus to their nearby travel centre. It is operated by a company that arranges legitimate, hassle free transportation to Siem Reap. The two best choices are a mini-van for $9 per passenger, which leaves as soon as it has nine passengers, or a share taxi for $12 per passenger, which leaves when it has four passengers. The prices are non-negotiable, and you buy your ticket for either option at a ticket window, rather than haggling with a driver. The third option is a public bus that leaves at 2:30pm, also for $9. However, I do not know how long the journey takes by bus. Since I was travelling alone, I took the mini-van, which only took about an hour to get nine passengers. The highway is now complete, so the ride only took 2 hours and 20 minutes, which included a 30 minute break at a restaurant. When we arrived in Siem Reap, they brought us to a guest house and asked us if we wanted to look, but there was no pressure. There was nothing wrong with the guest house and it was in a good location, but I already paid for another. Included in the ticket price was a tuk tuk ride to your guesthouse. And if you do not have a guest house, the driver will take you around until you find one that you like."

Traveller Andreas Klein also travelled this way:  "We caught the 05:55 train from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet. Tickets are still 48 Baht and are easy to book.  I'd recommend getting to the station at around 5 o'clock to get this done.  Although only 3rd class is available, the train is really good.  It was reasonably clean, the seats are comfortable and there are small fans for every compartment.  Additionally, you can open the windows which gives you a nice breath of air.  The train ride was very interesting due to the landscape and cities you travel through and the (very friendly) people you meet in the train.  Every now and then people come to sell food and drinks.  We found it also possible to get some hours of sleep in the train.  The way to the border is exactly as you describe on your website:  We took a tuk-tuk.  I can only recommend getting an e-visa.  It was very helpful to avoid getting in contact with all the scams offering other types of visa shortly before you cross the border.  The signs to the visa entry point are not the best and hence you might fall for one of the help offers from the scams. To cross the border, just walk along the main road through the entry gate and you will find the visa-checkpoint right at the end on the right side.  The entry-process is very easy.  Finding a reasonable transportation to Siem Reap cost us about 1.5 hours in the sun and lots of negotiation.  Some scammers claimed to be from a governmental organisation and tried to sell far too expensive transportation (US$60 to Siem Reap).  Avoid getting caught by them and their "official / governmental" bus and organisation (they all wear nice shirts with a Cambodia emblem, but we are still not sure whether this is real), which will only bring you to their taxi stand.  Like you say on your website, reasonable transport by taxi to Siem Reap should be $25, which we managed to achieve by walking along the main road, followed by several taxi drivers, who reduced their fares steadily the closer we came to the bus station.  It is about 140km."

Further feedback from travellers who have used this route between Bangkok and Phnom Penh or Siem Reap would be appreciated, as information is difficult to come by.


Saigon (HCMC) to Phnom Penh by bus...

There is no railway (at least, not yet) between Saigon & Phnom Penh.  However, a number of bus companies each operate a range of daily air-conditioned buses in each direction, taking about 6½ hours (they usually quote 5-6 hours, but assuming 6.5 hours is more realistic).  There's no point in flying for such a short trip, as flights on this route are expensive, and they save little time.  Flying will take up to 4 hours once travel to and from airports, check-in & baggage reclaim are included.  The bus costs less than a tenth of the flight price, and even includes a short crossing of the Mekong by ferry.

 Saigon ► Phnom Penh & Siem Reap  (bus service)  

 Bus operator:

Sapaco

Mekong Express Kumho Samco
 Depart Saigon (Pham Ngu Lao street) 06:00 07:00 08:00 09:00 10:00 11:30 13:00 14:00 15:00 07:00 08:30 11:00 13:00 07:30 10:30 12:30 15:00
 Arrive Phnom Penh: 12:30 13:30 14:30 15:30 16:30 17:30 19:30 20:30 21:30 13:30 15:00 17:30 19:30 14:00 17:00 19:00 21:30
 Arrive Siem Reap (bus station): 18:30 - - - - - - - - 19:30 - - - - - - -

 Phnom Penh & Siem Reap ► Saigon  (bus service)  

 Bus operator:   Kumho Samco Mekong Express

Sapaco

 Depart Siem Reap (bus station): - - - - - - - 07:00 - - - - - - 06:00 - -
 Depart Phnom Penh: 07:30 10:30 12:30 15:00 06:30 07:00 08:30 14:00 06:00 07:00 08:00 09:00 10:00 11:30 13:00 14:00 15:00
 Arrive Saigon (Pham Ngu Lao street): 14:00 17:00 19:00 21:30 13:00 13:30 15:00 20:30 12:30 13:30 14:30 15:30 16:30 18:00 19:30 20:30 21:30

Saigon to Phnom Penh is 240km, 150 miles.  Use these times only as a guide as you're quoted different times in different places!  Just 3 operators are shown here, but there are several others.

The buses operate via Moc Bai (Vietnamese border point) and Bavet (Cambodian border point).  Cambodian visas can be bought at the frontier or you can buy an e-visa online in advance.

In Saigon, Kumho Samco, Mekong Express Limousine & Mai Linh buses leave from the bus station at 237 Pham Ngu Lao Street, Ben Nghe Ward, 1Dist, HCMC. 

In Phnom Penh, there is no centralised bus station.  Mekong Express Limousine leaves from their office at 87 Sisowath Quay at the corner of Street 102 on the riverfront.  MaiLinh buses leave from the Olympic stadium.  However, some of these bus companies offer a free transfer from your hotel, just ask.

 How much does it cost?

Saigon to Phnom Penh

Around $11

Saigon to Siem Reap

Around $17

Which bus operator?

Reliable companies operating modern direct buses between Saigon & Phnom Penh include (1) Mekong Express Limousine Bus, (2) Sapaco Tourist, (3) Kumho Samco, and (4) Mai Linh.  This Tripadvisor link is useful in giving the low-down on each bus company.  It's best to avoid the 'budget' operators such as Narin or King who charge $4-$6, use older buses and make you switch buses at the border, taking 7½ hours.

How to buy tickets...

You cannot book these buses online, indeed few of these operators even have a website.  To buy a ticket, simply walk into any travel agency when you get to Phnom Penh or Saigon and ask for a bus ticket, or ask at your hotel or guest house.  If you really, really insist on pre-booking a ticket before you get there, in Saigon try buying tickets from the Sinh Cafe, www.sinhcafe.com or www.deltaadventuretours.com, and in Phnom Penh, try www.asiavipa.com.  There are so many companies and buses, you'll always find a bus with tickets available, even booking the day before you travel.  Email addresses for the operators either don't exist or typically don't work.

About the journey...

The Mekong Express bus from Saigon typically starts boarding around 20 minutes before departure, across the road from the Mekong Express office on Pham Ngu Lao in central Saigon.  Baggage is tagged and loaded under the bus and you're given a luggage receipt.  The bus is air-conditioned and there's a clean toilet at the rear.  The bus normally leaves promptly, refreshment towels are handed out and then mineral water and a snack.  The bus staff collect passports, along with $25 if you haven't got a Cambodian visa.  The bus reaches the Vietnamese border at Moc Bai in around 1 hour 55 minutes.  Here, everyone leaves the bus, enters the terminal and files towards the passport check where the collected passports are already being stamped.  Names are called out, you collect your passport when called, and you leave the building at the far door and rejoin the bus, which by now has pulled forward.  When everyone is back on board, the bus drives on 200 yards to the Cambodian border post at Bavet.  Everyone gets off the bus again and enters the building.  If you've an e-visa you'll be shown to the e-visa desk to have it checked, then you get fingerprint scanned and passport stamped at the passport desks.  The bus leaves when everyone is back on board, around 2 hours 55 minutes into the journey, driving on for 5 minutes past the casinos to a lunch stop at a simple cheap restaurant for around 40 minutes.  US dollars, riel and Vietnamese dong are accepted here, and neither the food nor the beer is expensive.  Once in Cambodia the landscape changes significantly, from urban ribbon development which has stretched almost all the way from Saigon to the border,  to far more rural scenes with rice fields and water buffalo.  The architecture also changes, from the Chinese-inspired buildings in Vietnam to temples and shrines more akin to those in Thailand. Around 5 hours 20 minutes into the journey, the bus queues up to go on the 10-minute ferry crossing over the Mekong at Neak Loeung.  Expect an arrival in Phnom Penh around 6 hours 30 minutes from Saigon.

 

The 08:30 Mekong Express bus from Saigon to Phnom Penh, at Moc Bai, the Vietnamese border post...

 

Seating on the Mekong Express bus.  Mineral water and snacks were handed out.  There's a toilet at the back.

 
Mekong Express bus...   Sapaco bus, in Saigon...

Travellers' reports...

Traveller Jon Feltham took the bus from Saigon to Phnom Penh in 2010:  "The bus trip from Saigon to PP (about 6 hours ) was with Kumho Samco Buslines.  We bought our tickets from a travel agent close to our hotel, but the bus company's offices in Ho Chi Minh city are at 237 Pham Ngu Lao Street, District 1, HCMC.  We took a taxi from our hotel to their booking office/travel agent/pick up point, where the coach picked us up.  They took our passports and filled the immigration form in to allow us to enter Cambodia, which was a pretty nice touch I thought and saved us routing about for pens and stuff.  After the border control formalities, the driver stopped for a spot of lunch 30-45 mins.  Then on to PP which included a river crossing by ferry which came as a surprise to us. The bus company runs a daily service from, Ho Chi Minh City to PP at 07:30 10:30 and 15:00. Ticket prices are $10 US. The busses are pretty modern with air con and have a conductor who rounds everyone up when the bus is ready to move on."

Traveller Kevin Nathan took the bus from Phnom Penh to Saigon in 2010:  "I bought a ticket from Capital tours below the Capital Guest House, inside the restaurant.  The fare from PP to HCMC was US$ 9 for an air conditioned bus.  I took a bus which left PP at 06:45 and arrived in HCMC at 13.30.  It was a good bus with good service, especially when crossing the immigration.  They gave free water, wet face tissue & face mask.  We also stopped for lunch before the border.  The bus arrived at De Tham Street (a backpacker area) in HCMC."

Saigon to Phnom Penh by river boat...

Alternatively, a number of local tour operators run a river boat + bus service from Saigon to Phnom Penh, a very enjoyable way to travel between the two cities.  Try www.bigpond.com.kh/users/capitol/opentour.htm.


On the down side, the Phnom Penh to Siem Reap speedboat costs more than the bus ($35 versus $10), takes a bit longer (but not much) and is less reliable as it can be cancelled if water levels are low or if there aren't enough tourists to support it.  But on the other hand, seeing rural life on the river from the sun-drenched deck of a speeding riverboat can be one of the highlights of visiting Cambodia, highly recommended.  The boat journey is approximately 251 kilometres (157 miles).

 Phnom Penh ► Siem Reap

 

 

 Siem Reap ► Phnom Penh

 By speedboat...

Every day

By speedboat...

Every day

 Phnom Penh (Sisowath Quay boat dock) depart: 07:30  Siem Reap (Chong Kneas boat dock) depart: 06:30
 Siem Reap (Chong Kneas boat dock) arrive: 14:00  Phnom Penh (Sisowath Quay boat dock) arrive: 13:00

In Phnom Penh, the speedboat leaves from the river boat dock at the northern end of Sisowath Quay, in central Phnom Penh.

In Siem Reap, the ferry arrives/departs from the boat dock at the Chong Kneas floating village, some 11 km (6.8 miles) south of Siem Reap itself.

Transfer from Chong Kneas to central Siem Reap:  When you arrive to catch the boat at Phnom Penh boat dock, you'll be asked if you want a tuk-tuk into Siem Reap, for $1 per person.  Your name will be taken.  On arrival at the Chong Kneas boat dock, a tuk tuk driver will be holding a card with your name on, and will take you into central Siem Reap in about 15-20 minutes.

 How much does it cost?

Phnom Penh to Siem Reap by speedboat

  $35     

By speedboat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap...

 

The 07:30 speedboat to Siem Reap, boarding at Phnom Penh...  Inside are bus-like seats.  However, most passengers spend the journey outside on the roof or deck, even speeding along at 25 knots...

 

Perched on the roof or on the deck around the wheelhouse, it's the perfect viewpoint to watch Cambodian river life.  Remember the sun cream!  The final part of the journey is over the huge Tonle Sap lake to the floating village of Chong Kneas, 11km south of Siem Reap itself...

 
Houses on stilts...   A Cambodian tuk tuk or 'remork' takes you from Chong Kneas into central Siem Reap...

Traveller's reports...

Traveller Lenny Hartley travelled from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap by river boat (2010):  "Most hotels and travel agents in Phnom Penh will book you a ticket which includes pickup by Tuk Tuk driver to the embarkation port just a short distance away from the main tourist riverside area of Phnom Penh.  Stalls at the embarkation point will sell you food and water although possibly better quality can be purchased elsewhere!  The boat itself is more like a river bus and travels at approx 45kph (according to a sat nav I saw), best to get their early and get a seat on the bow so you can dangle your legs over the side whilst using the rail to keep you safe.  The roof is curved and although there is a small rail its easy for your baggage to roll over the side and into the water never to be seen again if you encounter waves or swell in the Tonie Sap.  The passageway on the deck between the seating area and the roof is about 18 inches wide with no handrails for the first couple of metres so to begin with its a bit scary moving about between seating and roof but after a while you get used to it. Its a great way to see the countryside and riverside so the six hours or so pass far faster than a bus or plane journey. The landing area at Siem Reap is some distance from town, and you will be swamped by people trying to carry your bags up the steep gangways or to take a tut tut into town, best to get your hotel to organise a Tut Tut, if your lucky and get a good driver try and hold onto him for the duration of your visit."

Traveller Geoff Holman travelled PP to Siem Reap in Sept 2007:  "I booked this trip the day before at Capital No.1 Guesthouse in PP. Picked up by a minivan from guesthouse at 06.30 and transported to wharf.  Boat was about 75% full.  Weather was OK for travelling on the roof, bit hard on the back after a while.  Most of the backpackers/international travellers were up top to take in the views. Take refreshment as none available.  Air conditioning in cabin was a little cool, but all in all a comfortable and pleasant trip.  Chaos at the landing at Siem Reap. Host of small boys trying to grab your luggage for a fee.  Local police on hand but made no attempt to intervene.  Apparently the journey can be less enjoyable in the dry season as the lake is quite shallow and groundings are common."

Traveller Justin Kilby reports:  "The fast boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap is fairly comfortable and quite an interesting journey up the Tonle Sap river and across Tonle Sap Lake, but make sure you take food and water as there is none available on the boat.  Also make sure you buy your ticket from a reputable source, for example your hotel or legitimate travel agent as there are reports of travellers buying tickets for non existent boats."


  Cambodian bus from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh

A double-decker bus from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh.  Courtesy of Michelle Moret van der Spek.

 Phnom Penh ► Siem Reap  (bus service)  

 Bus operator:

Mekong Express

Paramount Angkor Express

 Depart Phnom Penh 07:30 08:30 12:30 14:25 07:30 08:30 10:00 11:00 12:30 14:00
 Arrive Siem Reap bus station 13:30 14:30 18:30 20:25 13:30 14:30 16:00 17:00 18:30 20:00

 Siem Reap ► Phnom Penh  (bus service)  

 Bus operator:   Mekong Express Paramount Angkor Express
 Depart Siem Reap bus station 07:30 08:30 12:30 15:00 07:00 07:30 08:30 09:30 12:30 13:30
 Arrive Phnom Penh 13:30 14:30 18:30 21:00 13:00 13:30 14:30 15:30 18:30 19:30

In Phnom Penh, there is no centralised bus station.  Mekong Express Limousine leaves from their office at 87 Sisowath Quay at the corner of Street 102 on the riverfront.  Bus companies often offer a free transfer from your hotel.

In Siem Reap, the bus station is 3km east of town.  Bus companies often offer a free transfer from your hotel.

There are several other companies operating this route, including some offering a night sleeper bus, and slightly faster minibuses.

To buy tickets, ask at your hotel or go to any local travel agency.  The road distance is approximately 314 kilometres (196 miles).

 How much does it cost?

Phnom Penh to Siem Reap

Mekong Express = $11

Paramount Angkor = $7


 Phnom Penh ► Battambang (bus service)  

 Bus operator:

Capitol Bus

Phnom Penh Sorya

 Depart Phnom Penh 06:45 07:00 08:00 09:00 10:00 11:30 12:30 06:30 07:45 08:45 10:45 11:45 12:45 13:00 13:45 15:15
 Arrive Battambang 12:45 13:00 14:00 15:00 16:00 17:30 18:30 11:45 13:45 16:45 18:30 20:30 18:45 19:00 19:45 21:15

 Battambang ► Phnom Penh (bus service)  

 Bus operator:

Capitol Bus

Phnom Penh Sorya

 Depart Battambang 06:45 07:00 08:00 09:00 10:00 11:30 12:30 06:30 07:45 08:45 10:45 11:45 12:45 13:00 13:45 15:15
 Arrive Phnom Penh 12:45 13:00 14:00 15:00 16:00 17:30 18:30 11:45 13:45 16:45 18:30 20:30 18:45 19:00 19:45 21:15

In Phnom Penh, there is no centralised bus station.  Mekong Express Limousine leaves from their office at 87 Sisowath Quay at the corner of Street 102 on the riverfront.  Bus companies often offer a free transfer from your hotel.

To buy tickets, ask at your hotel or go to any local travel agency.

 How much does it cost?

Phnom Penh to Battambang

Capitol Bus = $6

Phnom Penh Sorya= $5


 Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville by bus

 

Paramount Angkor bus, Cambodia

An Angkor Paramount Express air-conditioned bus...

 Phnom Penh ► Sihanoukville (bus service)  

 Bus operator:

Mekong Express

Paramount Angkor Express

 Depart Phnom Penh 07:45 14:30 07:45 09:45 12:45 14:30 16:30
 Arrive Sihanoukville 11:45 18:30 11:45 13:45 16:45 18:30 20:30

 Sihanoukville ► Phnom Penh  (bus service)  

 Bus operator:   Mekong Express Paramount Angkor Express
 Depart Sihanoukville 07:45 14:30 07:45 08:45 12:45 14:45
 Arrive Phnom Penh: 11:45 18:30 11:45 12:45 16:45 18:45

In Phnom Penh, there is no centralised bus station.  Mekong Express Limousine leaves from their office at 87 Sisowath Quay at the corner of Street 102 on the riverfront.  Bus companies often offer a free transfer from your hotel.

To buy tickets, ask at your hotel or go to any local travel agency.

 How much does it cost?

Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville

Mekong Express = $7

Paramount Angkor = $6


 Phnom Penh to Kampot by bus

 Phnom Penh ► Kampot (bus service)  

 Bus operator:

Capitol Bus

Phnom Penh Sorya

 Depart Phnom Penh 07:45 14:30 07:30 09:30 12:30 14:15
 Arrive Kampot 11:45 18:30 11:45 13:30 16:30 18:15

 Kampot ► Phnom Penh  (bus service)  

 Bus operator:   Capitol Bus Paramount Angkor Express
 Depart Kampot ??:?? ??:?? 06:45 07:45 12:30 13:30
 Arrive Phnom Penh: ??:?? ??:?? 10:45 11:45 16:30 17:30

In Phnom Penh, there is no centralised bus station.  Bus companies often offer a free transfer from your hotel.

To buy tickets, ask at your hotel or go to any local travel agency.

 How much does it cost?

Phnom Penh to Kampot

Capitol Bus = $5

Phnom Penh Sorya = $4.50

 

Cambodia's premier tourist attraction is the temple complex at Angkor, north of Siem Reap.  Angkor Wat is the biggest and best-known temple, though there are many others.  You really need a whole day to see the main ones, and several days to do the whole complex justice.

The temples at Angkor are around 3km (2 miles) north of Siem Reap, you can hire a tuk-tuk or bicycles to take you there are around.  You need to stop on the way at the ticket office.  A one-day ticket for the whole Angor temple complex costs $20.  To visit Angkor Wat, make sure you wear 'respectful' clothing, meaning your shoulders are covered with a top with sleeves, and no shorts.

Crossing the moat to Angkor Wat   Approaching Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat.  You first cross the moat to the gatehouse...

 

And past the gatehouse, a walkway leads to the temple itself.

Angkor Wat   Tuk tuk approaching the gate into Angkor Thom

Another view of Angkor Wat...

 

Approaching the south gate of Angor Thom on a traditional Cambodian tuk-tuk (remork)

South gate to Angkor Thom   Angkor Thom   Face carving on Angkor Thom
The South Gate to Angkor Thom...   Angor Thom.  Located in a clearing in the woods with fewer tourists & less restoration, Angor Thom is in many ways more romantic than the more famous Angkor Wat...
 
 

 Train service in Cambodia...

Until recently just one train service remained in Cambodia, from Battambang to Phnom Penh.  Previously running every second day, in 2006 it went down to once a week, and in early 2009 it stopped running altogether.  There are now no regular passenger trains in Cambodia, only buses.  Map of train routes in Southeast Asia.

Train service to be revived by 2013?

But Cambodian & foreign backers plan to bring back Cambodia's railways from the dead.  A company called Toll Royal Railway (www.tollroyalrailway.com) has been given a 30 year concession to repair and operate the railway, and by 2013 it's planned to reopen both the Southern Line from Phnom Penh to Kampot & Sihanoukville (254 km) and the Northern Line from Phnom Penh to Battambang, Sisophon & Poiphet on the Thai border (388 km).  Indeed, I have witnessed the new ballast and sleepers being laid between Sisophon and Poipet myself, in late 2011.  Thai and Cambodian governments have now agreed to link their rail systems again for the first time since 1946, and we could well see Bangkok to Phnom Penh passenger trains by the end of 2013.  One freight service is already back up & running, and the rehabilitation of Phnom Penh's historic main station is already under way.  See www.adb.org/Documents/feature-stories/2010/cam-bamboo-railways.asp, and the official Toll site, www.tollroyalrailway.com.

 
Phnom Penh railway station, freshly repainted.  It could well see passenger trains again from 2013...

 Europe to Cambodia overland...

Europe to Cambodia via the Trans-Siberian Railway...

If you have the time, meaning 2-3 weeks in total, you can reach Cambodia overland all the way from London.  You'd take Eurostar and a sleeper train to Moscow (2 nights), one of the two weekly Moscow-Beijing Trans-Siberian expresses (6 nights), the twice-weekly Beijing to Hanoi sleeper train (2 nights) and a Vietnamese domestic sleeper train to Saigon (2 nights), and finally a bus from Saigon to Phnom Penh.  See the London-Russia page for London-Moscow, the Trans-Siberian page for Moscow-Beijing, the Vietnam page for Beijing-Hanoi and Hanoi-Saigon, and see above for details of the bus service between Saigon and Phnom Penh.


 Recommended guidebooks...

Lonely Planet Cambodia - click to buy at AmazonTo get the most out of a trip to SE Asia, you'll need a good guidebook - and the Lonely Planet or Rough Guides are easily the best ones out there.

Click the images to buy online at Amazon.co.uk...

Or buy direct from the Lonely Planet website, with shipping worldwide.

 


 Hotels & accommodation

Find a hotel in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap or elsewhere in Cambodia...

Search by hotel name  Powered by Hotelscombined.com

 

◄◄◄◄◄ Search all the major hotel

booking websites at once...

Hotel reservations? Find the right hotel first. Compare here.

www.hotelscombined.com is probably the best hotel search system I've seen, a free search tool which checks all the main hotel booking sites (Opodo, Expedia, Booking.com, Hotels.com, AsiaRooms, Travelocity, LateRooms and others) to find the cheapest hotel rates.  Set up in 2005, it's probably the best place to start for booking any hotel online in any country, worldwide.

Tripadvisor hotel reviews...

www.tripadvisor.com is a good place to find independent travellers' reviews of the main hotels.  It also has the low-down on all the sights & attractions too.

Personal recommendation:  The Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC), Phnom Penh...

This is a celebrated bar facing the river on Sisowath Quay, well known on the ex-pats circuit.  But it's also a small hotel with nine rooms on the 1st floor, including a deluxe room at the front on the corner facing the river, and others at the back.  It's a vibrant and well-located place to stay, maybe a bit noisy until they turn off the music around 10pm.  With an excellent restaurant (try their Fish Ashok, a traditional Cambodian fish curry) and a great breakfast included in the room rate, this is a wonderful place to stay.

Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC) Phnom Penh   Breakfast at the FCC
The Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC), Phnom Penh.   Breakfast on the 2nd floor terrace.

 Travel insurance, SIM card...

Get travel insurance, it's essential...

  Columbus direct travel insurance

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash (up to a limit) and belongings.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year (I have an annual policy myself).  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

If you live in the UK, get quotes from Columbus Direct or Go Travel Insurance, or go to Confused.com to run a price comparison on a whole range of travel insurance providers for your dates of travel, seeing their policy's features at a glance..

        If you're resident in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct's other websites.

    If you're resident in the USA or Canada, try Travel Guard USA.

Get a spare credit card, designed for foreign travel with no currency exchange loading & low or no ATM fees...

It costs nothing to take out an extra credit card.  If you keep it in a different part of your luggage so you're not left stranded if your wallet gets stolen, this is a form of extra travel insurance in itself.  In addition, some credit cards are significantly better for overseas travel than others.  Martin Lewis's www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-travel-money explains which UK credit cards have the lowest currency exchange commission loadings when you buy something overseas, and the lowest cash withdrawal fees when you use an ATM abroad.  Taking this advice can save you quite a lot on each trip compared to using your normal high-street bank credit card!  You can save money on ATM charges and exchange rates using a Caxton FX euro currency Visa Card, or indeed the multi-currency 'Global Traveller' Visa Card, find out about these cards & sign up here.

Get an international SIM card...

Mobile phones can cost a fortune to use abroad, and if you're not careful you can return home to find some huge bills waiting for you.  I've known people run up a £1,000 bill in data charges just by leaving their iPhone connected during a simple trip to Europe.  However, if you buy a global SIM card for your mobile phone from a company such as www.Go-Sim.com you can slash the cost by up to 85% and limit any damage to the amount you have pre-paid.  It cuts call costs in 175 countries worldwide, and you can receive incoming calls and texts for free in 75 countries.  It's pay-as-you-go, so no nasty bills when you get home.  It also works for laptop or PDA data access.  A Go-Sim account and any credit on it doesn't expire if it's not between trips, unlike some others, so a Go-Sim phone number becomes your 'global phone number' for life.


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