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You can travel to Chişinău, the capital of Moldova, via Bucharest.  You can also travel via Warsaw, see here.

Train times London ► Bucharest ► Chişinău

• Travel from London to Bucharest as shown on the London to Romania page.

• Travel overnight from Bucharest to Chişinău on the 'Prietenia' sleeper train, leaving Bucharest Nord at 21:30 and arriving Ungheni (the Moldovan frontier) at 07:03 and Chişinău at 10:32. The 'Prietenia' has 4-berth 2nd class sleepers, and 1st class 2-berth sleepers.  There is a bar car selling snacks and drinks, but no restaurant, so take your own provisions along.

• Important:  This train now runs daily.  It was changed to only running every second day in April 2009 due to political problems, but was returned to daily operation again in May 2010. You can use http://bahn.hafas.de (English button top right) to confirm times.

Above:  The 'Prietenia' from Bucharest to Chişinău.  Photo courtesy of Pieter Beelen.		Above:  At the Romania-Moldovan frontier each sleeping-car is lifted on hydraulic jacks to have the bogies changed.  You remain on board while this is done...   Photo courtesy of Pieter Beelen.

Train times Chişinău ► Bucharest ► London

• Travel overnight from Chişinău to Bucharest on the 'Prietenia' sleeper train, leaving Chişinău  at 16:03, calling at Ungheni (Moldovan frontier) 18:00-20:00, and arriving at Bucharest Nord at 05:43 next morning.  The 'Prietenia' has 4-berth 2nd class sleepers and 1st class 2-berth sleepers.

• Important:  This train now runs daily.  It was changed to only running every second day in April 2009 due to political problems, but was returned to daily operation again in May 2010. You can use http://bahn.hafas.de (English button top right) to confirm times.

• Travel from Bucharest to London as shown on the London to Romania page.

On board the train...

Traveller and group organiser Neil McDonald describes his party of sixty kilted Scotsmen knocking back the Moldovan champagne on this train:

"I would describe the comfort as typical Soviet type comfort, although I enjoyed my journey on this service and indeed I intend using this service again.  There were comments about bugs in some of the carriages but I never had any problems with my carriage.  The Staff were a mixture of personalities, and with a party of 65 people spread over 6 carriages I got mixed reports about the stewards.  Some (well most) were extremely friendly towards my group (almost all Kilted Scotsman) however some were grumpy and one steward seemed on the take.  Most were very good with dealing with lost documentation and some of my group ended up sleeping in completely the wrong carriage without any problems.  The train buffet was a very cheap and cheerful effort.  I managed a small plate of chicken from the train buffet for the grand sum of 70p (it was soon sold out as word spread of the price through the train) and we discovered bottles of Moldovan Champagne going for £2.50 (have a guess how long that lasted too...).  Other items were going cheap as well."

How much does it cost?

The fare from Bucharest to Chişinău is very inexpensive, about $23 one-way in 2nd class 4-berth sleeper or $46 one-way in 2-berth sleeper.  From Chişinău to Bucharest the fare is 650 Leu (£27) per person in a 1st class 2-berth sleeper or 325 Leu per person in a 2nd class 4-berth sleeper (April 2007).  For fares from London to Romania see the London to Romania page. 

How to buy tickets...

For information on how to book the London to Bucharest journey, see the London to Romania page.

The Bucharest to Chişinău train cannot be booked through the normal computer reservation systems used by western European railways and ticketing agencies, and certainly can't be booked online.  Instead, you'll need to book this train separately, by e-mailing the Wasteels office in Bucharest on marketing@wasteels.eunet.ro or via their websites www.wasteelstravel.ro or www.wasteels.ro.  Their service has been reported as 'absolutely first class', and you can pick up the tickets in Bucharest.  They have an office at Bucharest Nord railway station. Alternatively, telephone +40 21 300 2730 or +40 21 300 2731.  Tickets and reservations can also be bought on the day of travel at the international booking office at Bucharest Nord station.

What's Moldova like?

Travel David Keating reports from a visit in summer 2006:  "I cannot foresee Chisinau becoming a tourist hotspot.  It was from what one can see from old photographs once a very attractive city, but it was mostly flattened in WW2.  There are one or two individual buildings of note still left, including a fine old station recently restored.  It is a very green city with plenty of trees and parks.  The central market is an excellent old fashioned food and general market which no longer exists in places like Poland.  No one hassles you in Moldova, it's cheap to eat and drink though accommodation can be more pricey.  At Orhei Vecchi there is an UNESCO heritage site comprising an unusual limestone cliff exposed by river erosion in which over the centuries mankind has burrowed, with many interesting remains.  There are also half a dozen attractive monasteries.  There is no where really to stay outside the capital, but the country can be reached usually on appalling roads in a day trip.  The countryside is unspectacular otherwise, rolling landscape, greatly impoverished villages.  There is a village by the river near Orhei, Trebushen, where an enterprising family provide pleasant accommodation with all meals and local wine at €30 per day per person.  People do stay from all over the world, for example stray Japanese, Scandinavians, Italians and French.  The village is not spoilt by modern buildings, there is walking to be done and otherwise pottering about. Some venture on the river.  The family arrange collection of guests from Chisinau, which is about 40 km away.  The place is desperately poor, and with the embargo placed on all imports by Russia the situation can only get worse.  Over 80% of agricultural produce, wine etc was exported to Russia.  Putin is putting the squeeze on to prevent Moldova following in the track of Ukraine.  Transnistria, the breakaway enclave supported by Putin is a difficult place to visit.  Tales come through of tourists having to pay for so-called visas etc.  The rail link from Ukraine and Russia passes through Transnistria, as does the Russian gas supply, and the main power station providing over 80% of the electricity comes from there.  When Stalin carved up the Romanian territory of Moldavia, he cut some off and gave it to Ukraine, in particular its coastal territory  and took a piece of Ukraine and stuck it on. The heavy industry, military base, power stations were located on the other side of the Dniestr river in what had not been part of Romania. It is that chunk which holds many assets which together with a slice seized on the Romanian side of the river that comprises the breakaway enclave. The EU has declared it illegal and none of its henchmen can visit or pass through EU territory. It is a major conduit of arms made there, drugs, people trafficking, etc.  This autumn the Russian embargo will really start to bite harder. More than a third of the population has left for greener pastures mostly as illegal workers in Portugal, Spain, Italy, the UK of course and here in Ireland.  The ones that go are the young fit ones.  In rural Moldova 80% of women between the ages of 16 and 36 are missing most of them forcibly taken into prostitution. It is a major scandal."

London-Moldova via Warsaw...

This route takes a bit longer, but still takes 3 nights, this time not all on board a train, as one of these nights is spent in a hotel in Warsaw.

Train times London ► Warsaw ► Chişinău

• Travel from London to Warsaw as shown on the London to Poland page.  Whichever option you take, you will need to stay overnight in Warsaw.

• A direct sleeper train leaves Warsaw every second day on even dates (2, 4, 6 etc of each month) at 07:15, arriving Chişinău at 20:15 next day.  The train has 4 berth 2nd class sleepers.

Train times Chişinău ► Warsaw ► London

• Travel from Chişinău to Warsaw by direct sleeper train, leaving Chişinău every second day on odd dates (1, 3, 5 etc of each month) at 11:50, arriving at Warsaw at 20:54 the next day.  The train has 4-berth 2nd class sleepers.  You'll need to stop in Warsaw overnight.

• Travel from Warsaw to London as shown on the London to Poland page.

The Thomas Cook European timetable has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  Published since 1873, it costs £13.99.  It's essential for any serious traveller and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Still not convinced you need one?  More information on what the Thomas Cook Timetable contains.  You can buy the latest monthly edition online at www.thomascooktimetables.com with worldwide delivery or buy it in person from any UK branch of Thomas Cook (ask at the bureau de change), or from W H Smiths in Victoria or Kings Cross stations in London.  Or buy the twice-yearly independent traveller's edition with laminated cover from Amazon.co.uk:  Summer 2010 edition (June to December 2010)

The Thomas Cook Rail Map of Europe is the best and most comprehensive map of train routes right across Europe, from Portugal in the west to Istanbul, Moscow & Ukraine in the east, from Finland in the north to Sicily & Crete in the south.  High speed & scenic routes are highlighted.  Highly recommended!  Buy online at www.amazon.co.uk (worldwide delivery).  See an extract from the map.

You should take a good guidebook.  For the independent traveller, this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide.  Both series are excellent.  The Lonely Planet range offers an in-depth guide for Romania and Moldova or a guide covering all the countries in Eastern Europe.  You won't regret buying one..!

Click the images to buy at Amazon...

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