Train travel in Sri Lanka . . .

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New ferry service to & from India:  Colombo to Tuticorin!

After many years of being cut off from each other, a new ferry service now links Colombo in Sri Lanka with Tuticorin in India as from June 2011, see www.flemingoliners.com.  The modern cruise ferry 'Scotia Prince' sails twice a week leaving at 18:00 and arriving at 08:00 next morning, but sailing days change from week to week so see www.flemingoliners.com for dates.  All passengers get a sleeping berth in a cabin, fares range from 2243 Indian rupees (about £47 or $77) in an economy class single-berth cabin to 2,760 Indian rupees (£58 or $95) in a super deluxe single-berth cabin, all fares include a non-alcoholic 'welcome aboard' drink and a fixed-menu dinner.  They have aspirations to make it a daily service in due course.  A second ferry service, between Rameswaram and Talaimannar is rumoured to be starting by the end of 2011, but again no details are available.

Update December 2011:  Due to a dispute over money owed to the caterers(!), the ferry has been impounded, and isn't running.  The operator isn't sure when it will resume.

The view from the train:  The view from the morning train from Kandy to Colombo.  Courtesy of Nicola David.

Once in Sri Lanka, trains are a cheap, safe and enjoyable way to get around.  Trains link the major cities and have several classes:

• 1st class sleeper.  1st class sleeping-berths are available on a few overnight trains.  The cars have lockable 2-berth compartments with separate toilet and washbasin.  Bedding is provided.

• 1st class observation car.  The 1st class observation car is highly recommended.  It's available on the best daytime trains on the amazingly scenic route from Colombo to Kandy and Badulla.  The observation car is normally at the rear of the train (occasionally behind the locomotive) and has comfortable (if slightly grubby) armchairs facing a large window looking back along the track.  Seats must be reserved before departure.  Seats can be reserved within 10 days of departure, but book early as the observation car is very popular and gets booked up fast, especially during school holidays.  You can reserve from outside Sri Lanka via www.reddottours.com.

• 1st class air-conditioned seats car.  Only available on one or two InterCity Express trains between Colombo & Vavunia and Colombo & Batticaloa.

• 2nd class seats, available on all trains.  These come in several versions, depending on the train:  (1) unreserved seats, where you buy a ticket, hop on and sit in any available seat, (2) reserved seats where you must make a reservation and you get an allocated seat, and (3) reserved 'sleeperette' reclining seats which are available on most overnight trains and recline to about 45 degrees for sleeping.  2nd class seats are the recommended option on trains with no 1st class.

• 3rd class seats, available on most trains.  These come in several versions, depending on the train:  unreserved seats, reserved seats, and reserved 'sleeperette' reclining seats.  3rd class is very basic and gets very crowded, and it is not generally recommended for visitors.

• New luxury 'ExpoRail' carriage:  One train a day from Colombo to Kandy and back now carries a privately-run deluxe car with special fares, see www.exporail.lk.

Train times...

Colombo - Kandy - Nuwara Eliya - Badulla

Colombo - Galle - Matara

Colombo - Galoya - Polonnaruwa, Batticaloa, Trincomalee

Colombo - Kurunegala - Anuradhapura - Vavunia

The timetables on this page show the principal trains on the most popular routes.  There are many other trains, stations and rail routes in Sri Lanka, but note that trains no longer operate to Jaffna or Talaimannar.  You can check routes and train times at the new Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk.  There is also train information at www.slrfc.org/sri-lanka-railways-time-table.html or http://colombofort.com or www.reddottours.com.  If you visit Sri Lanka, feedback would be appreciated!

How to buy tickets...

You cannot book online*, but it's easy to buy tickets when you get to Sri Lanka, there is a special ticket window for tourists at Colombo Fort station.  Reservations for trains with reserved seating such as InterCity Express trains open 10-14 days in advance.  Other trains (shown as having 'unreserved' seats) don't require a reservation, you just buy a ticket on and hop on.  Seats in the 1st class observation car from Colombo to Kandy can get fully-booked from time to time, so book a few days ahead if you can, but you may well find seats available on the day of travel. 

If you really want to pre-book a train before you get to Sri Lanka, and are prepared to pay a booking fee, try contacting a local travel agency (and let me know if you find a good one!) or even asking your hotel to arrange tickets for you.  If you want to book some hotels or tours as well as train tickets, reputable agency www.reddottours.com will book train tickets for you if you're also booking £300 or more of other tours and accommodation with them.

* The special deluxe 'Expo Rail' carriage Colombo-Kandy can now be booked online, at www.exporail.lk.

Two views of Colombo Fort Station. Photos courtesy of  Paul White.

Can you help improve this page?

If you have comments, suggestions, more information or photos that might improve this page and help fellow travellers, please e-mail me!

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This scenic train ride is the way to reach Kandy, 121 km by rail from Colombo, or the hill station at Nuwara Eliya.  The ride onwards to Badulla, into the hill country, is also wonderful, and probably the best train ride in Sri Lanka.  Travel in the 1st class observation car is recommended, and if possible on an InterCity Express train.

Colombo ► Kandy ► Nuwara Eliya ► Badulla
Km	Notes:	3	O,2,3,R *	ICE & Lux	O,2,3,R **	2,3	2,3	ICE	2,3	2,3	Sleeper
0	Colombo (Fort) depart:	-	05:55	07:00	09:30	10:35	12:40	15:35	16:35	17:45	20:00
121	Kandy arrive:	-	|	09:34	|	13:52	15:58	18:08	19:42	20:58	|
121	Kandy depart:	03:30	|	-	|	-	-	-	-	-	|
207	Nanu Oya (for Nuwara Eliya) arrive:	09:33	12:27	-	15:25	-	-	-	-	-	03:21
246	Haputale arrive:	11:49	14:07	-	17:02	-	-	-	-	-	05:05
292	Badulla arrive:	14:10	15:55	-	18:55	-	-	-	-	-	07:10

* This train is the PODI MENIKE.    ** This train is the UDARATA MENIKE.

ICE = InterCity Express, with 1st class observation car with reserved seats, 2nd & 3rd class reserved seats.

Sleeper = NIGHT MAIL, with 1st class sleepers (lockable 2-berth compartments), 2nd & 3rd class reserved sleeperettes (reclining seats), 2nd & 3rd unreserved seats, buffet car.

Lux = One or two privately-run luxury 'ExpoRail' air-conditioned carriages are attached to this train, see www.exporail.lk with online booking now available.  Service includes at-seat catering & WiFi, see this news article with photos.  The special fare is around 1,200 rupees one-way (£7 or $11).

O = 1st class observation car with reserved seats.

2 = unreserved 2nd class seats.

3 = unreserved 3rd class seats.

R = buffet/restaurant car.

You can check train times using the official Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk, but please check all times locally.

Nuwara Eliya ('City of lights') is a colonial hill station 2,000 metres above sea level, surrounded by tea plantations  It's easy to reach by train.  The station is Nanu Oya, 6 km from central Nuwara Eliya, with plenty of taxis and auto-rickshaws available.  It's also possible to walk.

Badulla ► Nuwara Eliya ► Kandy ► Colombo
Notes:	2,3,R	ICE	2,3	O,2,3,R **	ICE & Lux	2,3	O,2,3,R *	3	Sleeper
Badulla depart:	-	-	-	05:45	-	-	08:50	12:00	18:20
Haputale depart:	-	-	-	07:48	-	-	10:51	14:38	20:33
Nanu Oya (for Nuwara Eliya) depart:	-	-	-	09:27	-	-	12:27	16:58	22:33
Kandy arrive:	-	-	-	|	-	-	|	21:38	02:36
Kandy depart:	05:00	06:10	06:30	|	15:00	15:30	|	-	02:36
Colombo (Fort) arrive:	08:17	08:47	09:47	15:40	17:38	18:55	19:28	-	05:15

Fares
One-way adult fares..	3rd class reserved seat	2nd class reserved seat	1st class observation car	1st class sleeper
Colombo-Kandy by InterCity Express	Rs.150  (£1/$2)	Rs.220  (£1/$2)	Rs. 360  (£2/ $3)	Rs. 360  (£2/ $3)
Colombo-Kandy by normal train	Rs.105  (50p/$1)	Rs.190  (£1/$2)	-	-
Colombo-Badulla	Rs.270  (£2/$3)	Rs.450  (£3/$5)	Rs. 750  (£5/ $7)	Rs. 750  (£5/ $7)

Traveller's report...

Traveller Graeme Thorley reports "I thought the observation car to Kandy was okay although it requires you to travel backwards (in my case at least) which is not to everyone's taste. It also got incredibly hot (36°C at one point) due to the large window and there were only a limited number of seats that had a really good view. Rather irritatingly on my outbound trip two of these were occupied by people who slept for most of the trip..! The other point is that the carriage was occupied almost entirely by Westerners - this might be considered a good thing but personally I felt it left me more remote from the travelling experience.  On the train to Anaradhapura several locals stopped to chat, practise their English, exchange complaints about the delays etc. I also bumped into one of the families I had met on the train whilst sightseeing (they recognised me) and we had another chat. I find that sort of thing an important part of travelling."

Traveller Paul White reports "Don’t panic if you can’t get a ticket for the 1st class air conditioned trains to Kandy.  2nd class is more than adequate, but do try & get a window seat. The best side to sit on for scenery is the right hand side as you face forward from Colombo to Kandy, as this will give you the best views once you get past Rambukkana.  Do be brave and try the food on the trains! Many vendors will wander up and down selling cold drinks, fruit, spicy snacks and so on at reasonable prices."

Also see www.bootsnall.com for a good account of this trip...

Above:  Travelling by train in Sri Lanka is a great way to see the scenery...		Above:  The 1st class observation car, at the rear of the train, with window looking back along the track.

The photos above courtesy of Bill Wood of Massachusetts.  A visit to Bill Woods website, www.billwood.com, is highly recommended to see more photos of this journey.

Above:  The Colombo-Kandy 1st class observation car at Colombo Fort.  Photo courtesy of Graeme Thorley		Ordinary 2nd class seats on a Sri Lankan train.  Photo courtesy of Ciao Monteiro

Above:  On the train to Kandy.  Photo courtesy of Marilyn Le Ruyet		Looking back along the track from the 1st class observation car.  Photo courtesy of Marilyn Le Ruyet

A great way to reach the cities of Galle and Matara, by train along the coast...  2nd class is the recommended option, as 3rd class gets too crowded.  The Colombo-Galle fare is only about Rs.65 (£0.50/$1) one-way in 2nd class for the 116 km.  Colombo to Matara is about Rs.90 2nd class.

IMPORTANT:  Track is being replaced on much of this route following tsunami damage, and also to extend the line to Kataragama.  A temporary bus service replaces the train from Kalutara (an hour from Colombo) to Galle and Matara until probably April 2012, possibly longer.

Colombo ► Galle ► Matara
Km	Notes:	2,3	2,3	2,3	2,3	2,3	Mon-Fri, 2,3	3	Mon-Fri, 3	Sat, Sun, 3	3
0	Colombo (Maradana) depart:	06:30	-	-	13:40	15:40	16:40	17:20	17:50	17:50	18:45
2	Colombo (Fort) depart:	06:55	08:35	10:30	14:05	15:50	16:46	17:25	18:00	17:55	19:30
116	Galle arrive:	09:48	11:18	13:02	16:46	17:47	19:13	20:05	20:38	21:26	22:55
159	Matara arrive:	11:07	12:20	14:17	18:08	18:40	20:25	-	21:53	-	-

There's no 1st class on this route.  Unless shown otherwise, trains run every day.

2 = unreserved 2nd class seats;

3 = unreserved 3rd class seats;

You can check train times using the official Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk, but double-check train times locally.

Matara ► Galle ► Colombo
Notes:	Mon-Fri, 3	Sat, Sun 3	3	Mon-Fri 2,3	2,3	2,3	Mon-Sat, 3	2,3	Sunday 2,3	2,3
Matara depart:	-	-	-	04:35	05:55	06:10	-	09:55	-	14:25
Galle depart:	03:30	04:15	05:00	05:35	06:45	07:30	09:00	10:55	13:45	15:45
Colombo (Fort) arrive:	07:00	07:46	07:47	08:13	08:50	10:05	13:02	13:20	16:34	18:37
Colombo (Maradana) arrive:	07:07	07:51	07:54	08:20	08:56	10:12	13:35	-	16:40	18:45

 

Fares
One-way adult fares..	3rd class reserved seat	2nd class reserved seat	1st class seat
Colombo - Matara	Rs.130  (£1/$1)	Rs.230  (£1/$2)	-

2nd class is recommended on this route, as 3rd class is too crowded.  The Colombo-Trincomalee is 296 km.

Colombo ► Trincomalee, Batticaloa							Trincomalee, Batticaloa ► Colombo
Km	Daily:	2,3,R	2,3	Sleeper	Sleeper		Daily:	2,3	2,3,R	Sleeper	Sleeper
0	Colombo (Fort) depart:	06:10	(06:10)	19:15	21:00		Trincomalee depart:	07:00	-	19:30	-
227	Galoya arrive/depart:	11:19	15:30	00:30	02:54		Batticaloa depart:	|	07:15	|	20:15
260	Polonnaruwa arrive:	12:08	|	01:34	|		Polonnaruwa depart:	|	|	|	22:25
350	Batticaloa arrive:	14:20	|	04:00	|		Galoya depart::	08:50	10:15	21:55	23:20
296	Trincomalee arrive:	-	17:20		05:10		Colombo (Fort) arrive:	(15:25)	15:25	04:05	04:52

(06:10) = Depart Colombo 06:10, arrive Galoya 11:19, change trains, depart Galoya 15:30 for Trincomalee.

(15:25) = Arrive Colombo at 15:25, having changed at Galoya, arrive 08:50, depart 10:15.

ICE = InterCity Express. On this route ICEs have 2nd & 3rd class reserved seats & buffet car, plus a first class reserved seat car.

Sleeper = 1st class sleepers (2-berth compartments), 2nd & 3rd class reserved sleeperettes (reclining seats), 2nd & 3rd unreserved seats, buffet car.

You can check train times using the official Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk, but please double-check all train times locally.

Fares
One-way adult fares	3rd class reserved seat	2nd class reserved seat	1st class sleeper berth
Colombo-Trincomalee	Rs.205  (£1/$2)	Rs.370  (£2/$3)	Rs. 750  (£5/ $7)
Colombo-Batticaloa	Rs.230  (£2/$2)	Rs.420  (£3/$5)	Rs. 900  (£6/ $9)
Colombo-Batticaloa by ICE	Rs.320  (£2/$3)	Rs.500  (£3/$5)	Rs. 900  (£6/ $9)

Trains link Colombo with Anuradhapura and Vavunia.  However, since 1990 trains no longer operate as far as Jaffna or Talaimannar Pier (previously the ferry terminal for India) because of the security problems in that area.

Colombo ► Vavunia

Vavunia ► Colombo

Km

Daily:

2,3

2,3

2,3

ICE

Sleeper

Daily:

2,3

ICE

2,3

2,3

Sleeper

0

Colombo (Fort) depart:

05:45

10:40

13:45

16:20

20:30

Vavunia depart:

03:20

05:45

-

14:30

22:00

205

Anuradhapura arr/dep:

09:35

16:20

18:37

20:06

01:29

Anuradhapura arr/dep:

05:00

06:40

09:10

15:35

23:30

254

Vavunia arrive:

10:58

-

20:11

21:16

03:00

Colombo (Fort) arrive:

10:08

10:20

15:05

19:20

04:35

ICE = InterCity Express.  On this route ICEs have 2nd & 3rd class reserved seats & buffet car.  The 16:20 from Colombo & the 05:45 from Vavunia also have a 1st class air-conditioned car with reserved seats.

Sleeper = NIGHT MAIL, with 1st class sleepers (2-berth compartments), 2nd & 3rd class reserved sleeperettes (reclining seats), 2nd & 3rd unreserved seats, buffet.

1 = 1st class air-conditioned seats car with reserved seats;

2 = unreserved 2nd class seats; 

3 = unreserved 3rd class seats;

R = buffet/restaurant car;

You can check train times using the official Sri Lanka Railways website, www.railway.gov.lk.

Sponsored links:

Recommended guidebooks...

To get the best from Sri Lanka, you'll need a good guidebook.  For independent travellers, the best guides are probably either the Rough Guides or Lonely Planets.

Buy Rough Guide to Sri Lanka online at Amazon.co.uk

Find a hotel in Colombo, Kandy or anywhere else in Sri Lanka...

Search by hotel name  Powered by Hotelscombined.com

◄◄◄◄◄ Search all the major hotel booking websites at once... www.hotelscombined.com is probably the best hotel search system I've seen, a free search tool which checks all the main hotel booking sites (Opodo, Expedia, Booking.com, Hotels.com, AsiaRooms, Travelocity, LateRooms and others) to find the cheapest hotel rates.  Set up in 2005, it's probably the best place to start for booking any hotel online in any country, worldwide.

Other hotel sites worth a look...

• www.tripadvisor.com is a huge resource, a good place to browse independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.

• www.booking.com is my own preferred hotel booking system (Hotels Combined being a booking site comparison system).  It has a simple interface, a good selection in most countries worldwide, useful online customer reviews of each hotel, and decent prices, usually shown inclusive of unavoidable extras such as taxes (a pet hate of mine is systems that show one price, then charge you another!).

Overland travel by train & bus around Sri Lanka is an essential part of the experience, so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground!  But a long-haul flight might be unavoidable to reach Sri Lanka in the first place.  For flights to Colombo, start with www.e-bookers.com.  Seat61 gets a small commission through this link.

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