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Zimbabwe . . .

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Train operator in Zimbabwe:

National Railways of Zimbabwe - no official website.

Bulawayo-Botswana trains

Vic Falls-Zambia-Tanzania trains

Time zone:

GMT+2

Currency:

£1 = .  

Z$ are not available outside Zimbabwe.  Currency converter

Tourist information:

Tripadvisor Zimbabwe page    Health & vaccinations

Visas:

UK citizens now need a visa to visit Zimbabwe, but this can be obtained at the point of entry for about £35 / $55.

Page last updated:

21 May 2010

This classic overnight train is THE way to reach Vic Falls from Bulawayo, even though (given Zim's economic situation) it's now getting very down-at-heel.  It's an experience in itself, a piece of history with British-built coaches, some with wood-panelled interiors, dating from 1952 & 1958.  The train might just receive new coaches at some point, as it was reported way back in 2006 that 64 new long-distance coaches were due to be delivered from China, but there's no sign of them yet, even in 2010!  If you have any updates about this train, please email me.

Bulawayo ► Vic Falls				Vic Falls  ► Bulawayo
Runs Tue, Thur, Fri, Sat, Sun *				Runs Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun *
Bulawayo	Depart	20:00		Victoria Falls	Depart	18:30
Dete	Arr/dep.	01:29		Hwange	Arr/dep.	22:22
Hwange	Arr/dep.	03:04		Dete	Arr/dep.	00:50
Victoria Falls	Arrive	07:00		Bulawayo	Arrive	07:00

* This train used to run daily, but service was reduced to 5 days a week as from 15 May 2009.  That's still the case in 2010.

In practice, expect an arrival in Vic Falls around 09:00, sometimes later. 

Fares...

Fares are very cheap, even judged at the very poor official exchange rate.  The one-way 1st class sleeper fare from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls is $10 (£7), including bedding.  A 2nd class sleeper is $7 (£5) without bedding.

How to buy tickets...

You can buy tickets at Bulawayo station reservation office or the Victoria Falls reservation window, but only on the day of travel (the ability to book up to 30 days before seems to have been discontinued).  Reservations are not fully computerised, and can only be made for trains leaving from that station.  Reservations for your return journey must be made when you reach your destination.  Your ticket will not show your coach or berth number, this will be shown on a passenger list posted in a glass case on the platform about an hour before the train departs.  Although the train appears to be well used, it's a long train with plenty of berths available, and there is unlikely to be a problem getting a place even for travel on the same day.

The night train from Bulawayo to Victoria Falls		1st class coupé (day)		1st class coupé (night)		Economy class seats...

What is the Bulawayo-Victoria Falls train like?

There are three classes on the Bulawayo - Victoria Falls train:

• 1st class sleepers, which have 2-berth rooms (known as coupés) and 4-berth rooms (known as compartments). These have leatherette bench seats convertible to bunks, and each room has a washbasin with (cold) water.  Full bedding used to be provided, but this is no longer the case, so perhaps buy a cheap blanket or two before boarding if you can.  The windows open for clear view of the countryside, and at night, you can use a metal / mesh screen to allow cool air in whilst keeping you secure.  The carriage lights may not work, so a torch is handy!

• 2nd class sleepers, which are identical to 1st class sleepers except there are 3 berths per coupé and 6 berths per compartment.

• Economy class seats:  Basic seating, and does not convert to berths  (pictured below right).

In 1st class, 2 passengers travelling together will normally be booked into a 2-berth coupé, whereas a solo traveller will be booked into a 4-berth compartment with passengers of the same sex.  If you pay for two tickets (perfectly affordable, given the fare) you can have sole occupancy of a coupé.

The sleeping-cars are all British-built, the ones with wood-panelled interiors in Gloucester in 1952, the ones with the less attractive formica interiors in Birmingham in 1958.  Although they now carry National Railways of Zimbabwe insignia, they are still painted in the original 'Rhodesia Railways' colours, and windows and mirrors are etched with the 'RR' logo.  The coaches were in OK condition when I travelled myself in 2001, but admittedly have been let go a bit lately and are now fairly decrepit, given Zim's economic circumstances.

Short video taken on the journey.

A wood-panelled 1st class coupe... Photo courtesy of Jesse Karp		1st class sleeper corridor.... Photo courtesy of Jesse Karp		Monkeys on the train! Photo courtesy of Jesse Karp

Travellers' reports...

Traveller Jesse Karp used this train in May 2009:  "I had a lovely journey in one of the wood panelled coaches. No electricity, no water. but iron crisp, clean bedding, with pillow and blanket. Still $8/person for a berth..".

Things to do in Victoria Falls...

-  Visit the park to see the Falls from the Zimbabwe side.  The park entrance fee is about £15 - take some waterproof clothing..!

-  Walk across the frontier into Zambia to see the Zambian part of the Falls.  Between the Zimbabwean and Zambian frontier posts you cross the famous steel bridge carrying the road and railway across the Zambesi between the Zimbabwean and Zambian sides of the river.  Remember to have US$10 on you in US dollars cash, as this is the cost of a Zambian one-day visa.  Sterling is also accepted, but not Zimbabwe dollars or South African Rand.  If you pass any warthogs on the way, give them a wide berth...

-  Arrange a day trip to Chobe game reserve in Botswana.  There are many operators offering similar trips.  A 45-minute minibus transfer takes you from your hotel to the Botswana frontier.  A 3-hour game drive in the Chobe National Park is followed by a 3-hour river trip with lunch.  Animals include lion, impala, antelope, elephant, hippo, warthog, crocodile, mongoose, and even tortoise.

-  Take afternoon tea at the Victoria Falls Hotel, the poshest hotel in town.  Staying there will cost you £150 per night.  Afternoon tea (complete with cucumber sandwiches) will cost you more like £10.  The hotel is right next to the railway station.

-  Go on an afternoon river cruise on the Zambezi.  Many operators offer similar trips for the going rate of about £15, which includes plentiful wine or beer.  You will probably see hippo and crocodile.

-  For those interested, there are a whole range of adventure activities available such as white water rafting down the Zambezi, or for the completely insane, bunji jumping off the Zambezi bridge.

...and in Bulawayo

Bulawayo is a pleasant town, with very wide open streets and relatively little traffic.  There is an excellent railway museum, which features Cecil Rhodes' private railway coach.  You should not miss a day trip to the Matobo National Park, some 25 miles South of Bulawayo.  Day tours generally visit the Whovi game reserve in the morning (famous for its rhinos), then the haunting hills of the main park in the afternoon.  Pictured right:  Cecil Rhodes is buried in a breath-taking spot in Matobo, on a rocky outcrop known as 'the view of the world'.

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