Magnolia blossom in Zagreb
 

Magnolia blossom in the lovely city of Zagreb.  Croatia is fabulous, from Adriatic islands to wineries & olive groves in Istria. 

Easy by train, no flight needed!

 

Route map:  London to Zagreb, Bled, Split, Rijeka by train

The rail way to Croatia!  London to Zagreb in 24 hours.

UK to Croatia by train in 24 hours

Take a morning Eurostar to Paris, a 320 km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV train to Stuttgart, then the excellent Croatian sleeper train overnight to Zagreb, arriving next morning.  Or take Eurostar & TGV Duplex to Munich, stay overnight, then take a scenic ride through the Austrian mountains to Slovenia and along the pretty River Sava to Zagreb.  It's safe, civilised, comfortable & affordable and unlike a flight, a memorable travel experience.  This page explains how to travel to Croatia by train, with times, fares & how to buy tickets.

small bullet point  London to Zagreb

small bullet point  London to Split & Dubrovnik

small bullet point  London to Korcula, Hvar, Vis, Brac

small bullet point  London to Rijeka

small bullet point  London to Istria:  Porec, Rovinj, Pula

small bullet point  Suggested hotels in Zagreb, Split & Croatia

small bullet point  Useful country information: currency, dial code...

small bullet point  Holidays to Slovenia & Croatia by train not plane

small bullet point  Zagreb station guide

small bullet point  Trains from Zagreb to other European cities

small bullet point  Trains from Split & Dubrovnik to other European cities

small bullet point  Trains to Croatia from other European cities

Train travel information

small bullet point  General information about European train travel

small bullet point  Taking your bike    Taking your dog    Luggage 

small bullet point  Travel insurance, mobile data, VPN & other tips

small bullet point  Buying UK train tickets to connect with Eurostar

Route map

Route map:  London to Zagreb, Bled, Split, Rijeka by train


Useful country information

Train operators:

HZ (Hrvatske Zeljeznice) ww.hzpp.hr Eurostar times & fares   All-Europe train times

Railpasses:

Beginner's guide to European railpasses    Buy a rail pass online

Time zone:

GMT+1 (GMT+2 from last Sunday in March to last Saturday in October).

Dialling code:

+385

Currency:

£1 = approx 1.15 euros (Croatia adopted the euro in January 2023).  Check current exchange rates

Tourist information:

Croatia: www.htz.hr & www.croatiatraveller.com    Recommended guidebooks

Accommodation:

Find a hotel in Croatia, Slovenia or Bosnia

Visas:

UK citizens do not need a visa to visit Croatia or Slovenia.

Page last updated:

17 January 2024.  Train times valid 10 December 2023 to 14 December 2024.


London to Zagreb by train

Croatia's capital, Zagreb, is a wonderful city and the hub for trains to Split, the starting point for buses to Dubrovnik & ferries to Hvar and other Adriatic islands.  It's straightforward, safe & comfortable to reach Zagreb by train from the UK.  Here are several good options, using Eurostar or the Harwich-Hoek ferry:


Option 1:  Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Stuttgart, sleeper to Zagreb

This is the fastest & most time-effective option, London to Zagreb in comfort in less than 24 hours.  You'll experience two of Europe's best high-speed trains, Eurostar and France's famous TGV, then an excellent Croatian sleeper train either in an economical couchette or a private sleeper.

London ► Zagreb

Zagreb ► London

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

 1. London to Paris

     by Eurostar

 From £52 one-way, £78 return 2nd class.

 From £97 one-way, £168 return 1st class.  Child fares 

 

 2. Paris to Stuttgart

     by TGV Duplex

 From €39.90 each way in 2nd class

 From €69.90 each way in 1st class.

 Limited availability, book in advance to get these fares.

 

 3. Stuttgart to Zagreb

     on the Lisinski

In a

seat:

In a couchette

In the sleeping-car

6-berth

4-berth

3-berth

2-berth

single

 One-way per person from:

€29

€49

€59

€69

€89

€129

Berths are sold individually, so one ticket means one bed.  The other beds in your compartment will be sold to other passengers.  For sole occupancy, simply book 1 ticket in a 1-berth sleeper or 2 tickets in a 2-berth sleeper or 4 tickets in a 4-berth couchette & so on.

How to buy tickets

How to buy tickets by phone

Or use an Interrail pass

Have your trip arranged as a package

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedureSt Pancras station guide Gare du Nord station guide.

A Eurostar e320 train at London St Pancras   Eurostar e320 first class seats

Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.

 

1st class:  Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Eurostar e320 2nd class seats   Eurostar e320 cafe-bar

Standard class.  Larger photo.

 

One of two cafe-bars, cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Stuttgart by TGV Duplex   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.

TGV Duplex at Paris Gare de l'Est

TGV Duplex at Paris Est. These impressive 320 km/h double-deck trains link Paris with Stuttgart & Munich.

TGV Duplex cafe-bar   TGV Duplex upper deck 2nd class seats

Cafe-bar on upper deck in car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.

 

2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360Ί photo.

First class on board a TGV Duplex   An TGV Duplex at Paris Est.

1st class on upper deck, a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right.  360Ί photo.

 

A TGV Duplex.  The 1 near the door indicates 1st class, a 2 indicates 2nd class.

3. Stuttgart to Zagreb on the sleeper train Lisinski  Watch the video

This modern Croatian sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  The air-conditioned sleeping-car has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as 1, 2 or 3 berth, with toilets at the end of the corridor.  Compartments convert to a private sitting room for evening or morning use.  A light breakfast with tea or coffee is included in the sleeper fare.  The couchette car is also modern & air-conditioned with 4 & 6 bunk compartments, ideal for families.  Couchettes convert from bunks to seats for evening or morning use.  A similar sleeping-car operates from Stuttgart to Rijeka in April, May, June, July & August.  Zagreb station guide.

The 'Lisinski' sleeper train from Munic to Zagreb, boarding in Munich

Above, the air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car to Zagreb, boarding at Munich Hbf.  The Croatian couchette car is the next vehicle to the right.  See the Croatian sleeper video.

Sleeper compartment in the Croatian sleeping-car from Munich to Zagreb   Sleeper compartment in the Croatian sleeping-car from Munich to Zagreb   4 or 6-berth couchettes on train from Munich to Zagreb

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper.

 

Set up as a single-berth.

 

4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360Ί photo.

Scenery between Ljubljana & Zagreb

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava.

Watch the video: By sleeper to Zagreb

This video was taken on the Zurich to Zagreb sleeper, which is identical to the Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper and takes the same scenic route between Ljubljana & Zagreb.

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Option 2:  Eurostar to Paris, TGV-Lyria to Zurich, sleeper to Zagreb

This is very similar to option 1, but instead of TGV Paris-Stuttgart and Croatian sleeper train Stuttgart-Zagreb, you taka a TGV-Lyria to Zurich and Croatian sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb.  There are two minor disadvantages compared to option 1:  First, departure from London is a little earlier in the morning with an identical arrival time in Zagreb.  Second, you need to cross Paris by taxi or metro from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon, whereas in option 1 it's just a 7 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est next door.  As with option 1, there's lovely scenery in the morning on the way to Zagreb along the Sava river.

London ► Zagreb

Zagreb ► London

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

 1. London to Paris

     by Eurostar

 From £52 one-way, £78 return 2nd class.

 From £97 one-way, £168 return 1st class.  Child fares 

 

 2. Paris to Zurich

      by TGV Lyria

 From €29 each way in 2nd class

 From €79 each way in 1st class.

 Limited availability, book in advance to get these fares.

 

 3. Zurich to Zagreb

 by sleeper train

In a

seat:

In a couchette

In the sleeping-car

6-berth

4-berth

3-berth

2-berth

single

 One-way per person from:

€29

€49

€59

€69

€89

€129

Saver fare = Advance-purchase fare, price varies, no refunds, no changes to travel plans.

Berths are sold individually, so one ticket means one bed.  The other beds in your compartment will be sold to other passengers.  For sole occupancy, simply book 1 ticket in a 1-berth sleeper or 2 tickets in a 2-berth sleeper or 4 tickets in a 4-berth couchette & so on.

How to buy tickets

How to buy tickets by phone

Or use an Interrail pass

What are the trains like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Standard Premier & Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedureSt Pancras station guideParis Gare du Nord station guideHow to cross Paris by metro or taxi.

A Eurostar e320 train at London St Pancras   Eurostar e320 first class seats

Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.

 

1st class:  Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Eurostar e320 2nd class seats   Eurostar e320 cafe-bar

Standard class.  Larger photo.

 

One of two cafe-bars, cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria

All TGV-Lyria trains are now 320km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex like the one shown below.  TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes:  Standard class (2nd), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with hot meal & drinks included in the fare).  There's a cafe-bar car selling drinks & snacks.  There are power points for mobiles & laptops at all seats in all classes.  Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways.  More about TGV-LyriaParis Gare de Lyon station guideZurich HB station guide.

TGV-Lyria train from Paris to Switzerland, at Paris Gare de Lyon

TGV-Lyria TGV Duplex train at Paris Gare de Lyon. More about TGV-Lyria.

TGV Duplex cafe-bar   TGV Duplex 2nd class seats, upper deck

Cafe-bar on upper deck car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.

 

2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360Ί photo.

TGV Lyria first class, upper deck   A TGV-Lyria train from Paris to Switzerland

1st class on the upper deck, with a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right. Larger photo.

 

A TGV-Lyria boarding at Paris Gare de Lyon.  You enter on the lower deck, with 9 stairs up to top deck.

3. Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper train  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Zurich before boarding at a local restaurant, try the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB.  Zagreb station guide.

The Zurich to Zagreb sleeper train boarding at Zurich HB

The Zurich-Zagreb sleeper train boards at Zurich HB as the sun sets on a summer day.  That's the Croatian couchette car on the right, the Croatian sleeping-car on the left.

Sleeper compartment in the Croatian sleeping-car from Munich to Zagreb   Sleeper compartment in the Croatian sleeping-car from Munich to Zagreb   4 or 6-berth couchettes on train from Munich to Zagreb

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper.

 

Set up as a single-berth.

 

4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360Ί photo.

Scenery between Ljubljana & Zagreb

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava.

Watch the video: Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper

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Option 3, afternoon Eurostar, Nightjet sleeper to Vienna, EuroCity train to Zagreb

This is slower than options 1 & 2 because of the time between trains in Vienna, but what's not to like about some time in the Austrian capital?  This is arguably most comfortable option as the Paris-Vienna & Brussels-Vienna Nightjet trains offer some deluxe sleepers with en suite shower & toilet.  Each Nightjet runs 3 times a week, but are expected to become daily in autumn 2024.  In Brussels it's a same-station change, in Paris it's a 7-minute 500m walk between the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l'Est, otherwise both routes are very similar.

London ► Zagreb

London ► Zagreb

Zagreb ► London

Zagreb ► London

How much does it cost?

 1. London to Paris or Brussels

 by Eurostar

 From £52 one-way, £78 return 2nd class.

 From £97 one-way, £168 return 1st class.  Child fares 

 

 2. Paris or Brussels to Vienna

 by Nightjet sleeper train

 one-way per person per bed

In a seat

In a couchette

In the sleeping-car

6-berth

4-berth

3-berth

2-berth

1-berth

3-berth

+ shower

2-berth

+ shower

1-berth

+ shower

 Fares start at:

€39

€49

€59

€89.90

€109.90

€159.90

€99.90

€129.90

€179.90

 

 3. Vienna to Zagreb

 by EuroCity train

 From €29.90 each way in 2nd class

 From €49.90 each way in 1st class

On the sleeper train, berths are sold individually, so one ticket means one bed, the other beds in your compartment will be sold to other passengers.  For sole occupancy, simply book 1 ticket in a 1-berth sleeper, 2 tickets in a 2-berth sleeper, 4 tickets in a 4-berth couchette & so on.

How to buy tickets

How to buy tickets by phone

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris or Brussels by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Brussels in just 2 hours, London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedureSt Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide Brussels Midi station guideIn Brussels, I recommend using the Pullman Hotel bar as your VIP waiting room.

A Eurostar e320 train at London St Pancras   Eurostar e320 first class seats

Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.

 

1st class:  Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Eurostar e320 2nd class seats   Eurostar e320 cafe-bar

Standard class.  Larger photo.

 

One of two cafe-bars, cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris or Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet  See the Nightjet guide

This is an Austrian Railways (ΦBB) Nightjet train, with sleeping-car, couchettes & seats.  The sleeping-car has 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, plus three deluxe compartments with 1, 2 or 3 beds with private shower & toilet.  The sleeper berths come fully made up with sheets and duvets, all sleeper passengers get mineral water in the evening and a light breakfast served in their compartment next morning.  Towels & toiletries are provided, including shampoo and shower gel in the deluxe sleepers.  In the more economical couchettes, you can book a couchette in a cheaper 6-berth compartment or a less-crowded 4-berth compartment, each provided with sheet, blanket, pillow & small bottle of water, and couchette passengers get a tea or coffee in the morning.  When waiting for the northbound sleeper train in Vienna, if you have booked a sleeper you can use the ΦBB lounge with complimentary refreshments.  More pictures & information about Nightjet trains.

The Nightjet sleeper from Brussels to Vienna at Brussels

On 20 January 2020, the inaugural Nightjet left Brussels for Vienna, the first scheduled sleeper train to leave Brussels in 16 years.  Above, that inaugural train is seen ready to leave Brussels Midi on 20 January - naturally, the Man in Seat 61 was on board!

Nightjet deluxe 2-berth sleeper   Nightjet deluxe sleeper in day mode   Nightjet deluxe sleeper toilet & shower   Nightjet standard (economy) sleeper

Deluxe sleeper.  Each compartment can be used as a 1, 2 or 3-bed room.  Larger photoVideo of deluxe room

 

Same deluxe sleeper in evening/morning mode with beds folded away, seats folded out.  Larger photo.

 

Deluxe rooms have a compact shower & toilet, towels & hair/body wash provided.  Larger photo.

 

Standard sleeper set up as 2-berth, washstand open.  It can be used as a 1, 2 or 3 berth.  Larger photo.

6-berth couchettes   4-berth couchettes   Couchette car on Brussels-Vienna sleeper

6-berth couchettes.

 

4-berth couchettes.

 

Couchette car on the Brussels-Vienna Nightjet.

3. Vienna to Zagreb by EuroCity train

The EuroCity train Croatia has comfortable air-conditioned Austrian cars, some with classic 6-seat compartments, some with open-plan saloons, and an Austrian restaurant car serving snacks, meals, beer and wine.  Zagreb station guideUpdate:  From September 2023 until further notice, you'll need to make a quick cross-platform change in Graz.  The restaurant car only runs in the Austrian portion.

EuroCity train Croatia from Vienna to Zagreb

The EuroCity train Croatia about to leave Vienna Hbf for Zagreb.

 

1st class open-plan seating as used on the Croatia.  1st class seats in 6-seat compartments are also available.

 

2nd class compartment as used on the Croatia.  Seats in open plan cars are also available.

Austrian restaurant car   Meal in an Austrian restaurant car on a Munich-Verona train

The elegant restaurant car.  See larger photo.

Dinner with wine on board.

Scenery from the train on the Semmering Railway

The Semmering Railway.  Shortly after calling at Vienna Neustadt, the Vienna-Zagreb train travels over the 41km (25 mile) Semmering Railway, opened in 1854 and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.  You'll get these great views southbound in summer when it's light in the evening, and all year round from the northbound train.  Read more about the famous Semmering Railway at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.  Sadly, this slow, curvaceous and steep section of line will be by-passed in the mid-2020s when the new Semmering Base Tunnel opens, though this could save up to 90 minutes.

More scenery on the Semmering Railway   More scenery on the Semmering Railway

The train snakes its way over the Semmering Railway, summiting near Semmering itself at 898m (2,946 feet) above sea level.

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Option 4:  By daytime trains, with overnight stop in Munich

This option takes longer than the others, but if you prefer daytime trains and a hotel to sleeper trains, this is the option for you.  You get to see rather than sleep through all that wonderful scenery through the mountains across Austria and along the pretty River Sava from Slovenia to Zagreb.

London ► Zagreb

Zagreb ► London

How much does it cost?

How to buy tickets

How to buy tickets by phone

Or use an Interrail pass

Let Railbookers arrange it as a package

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedureSt Pancras station guide Gare du Nord station guide.

A Eurostar e320 train at London St Pancras   Eurostar e320 first class seats

Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.

 

1st class:  Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Eurostar e320 2nd class seats   Eurostar e320 cafe-bar

Standard class.  Larger photo.

 

One of two cafe-bars, cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart & Munich.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guideMunich Hbf station guide.

TGV Duplex at Paris Gare de l'Est

TGV Duplex at Paris Est. These impressive 320 km/h double-deck trains link Paris with Stuttgart & Munich.

TGV Duplex cafe-bar   TGV Duplex upper deck 2nd class seats

Cafe-bar on upper deck in car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.

 

2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360Ί photo.

First class on board a TGV Duplex   An TGV Duplex at Paris Est.

1st class upper deck seats, club duo on the left, club quatre on the right.  360Ί photo.

 

A TGV Duplex.  The 1 near the door indicates 1st class, a 2 indicates 2nd class.

3. Munich to Zagreb by train

Now for a real treat.  Sit back with a glass of red, catch up on your reading and enjoy the views.  This is actually two trains, a smart modern Austrian Railjet train with restaurant car from Munich to Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, then a comfortable air-conditioned Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train from Villach to Ljubljana and Zagreb.  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  You make a quick & easy change of train across the platform at Villach, the Croatian train will be waiting for this connection.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  Beyond Ljubljana, the train continues to follow the river Sava, passing through a beautiful river gorge between mountains, a real treat.  Beyond Zidani Most the valley widens into a plain, and you cross the border into Croatia at Dobova and soon arrive in Zagreb's impressive central station, a palace of a building, right in the centre of the city.  Zagreb station guide.

A railjet train about to leave Munich Hbf

A railjet about to leave Munich Hbf.

Business class seats on a railjet train   Railjet restaurant car

Business class.  About.

 

Restaurant car.

Business class seats on a railjet train   Economy class seats on a railjet train

First class.

 

Economy class.

Scenery in the Austrian Alps between Munich & Ljubljana

Through the Austrian Alps.  Clinging to the mountainside high in the Austrian Alps, the railjet snakes along between snow-capped mountains, absolutely wonderful.  There's a quick cross-platform change of train at Villach onto a Slovenian & Croatian train called the Sava.

  2nd class seats on the Munich-Zagreb train

...and along the Sava river in Slovenia.  Now across the border in Slovenia, the EuroCity train runs along the pretty River Sava all the way to Ljubljana & Zagreb.

 

Comfortable seats:  The 2nd class seats in the Slovenian cars are arranged 2+1 abreast, the same as 1st class!

Scenery between Ljubljana & Zagreb

More lovely scenery along the Sava between Ljubljana & Zagreb.

The EuroCity train 'Sava' from Munich to Ljubljana & Zagreb  

The EuroCity train Sava, arrived at Zagreb.

 

Scenery along the Sava between Ljubljana & Zagreb.

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Option 5:  Via the Harwich-Hoek van Holland ferry

This is the ferry alternative!  It's a great option if you live in East Anglia, if Eurostar is too expensive or if you want to avoid the Channel Tunnel, for example if you suffer from claustrophobia.  I don't recommend the Dover-Calais route because of poor train/ferry connections, the Stena Line rail & sail service via Harwich & Hoek van Holland is the one to use as it has co-ordinated timetables and integrated ticketing, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page & watch the video.

London, Cambridge & Harwich ► Zagreb

Zagreb  ► Harwich, Cambridge & London

How much does it cost?

How to buy tickets

Alternatively, stay in Munich & take a daytime train next day

What's the journey like?

1. London to Amsterdam by train & ferry

A train takes you from London's Liverpool Street station directly to the ferry terminal at Harwich.  You walk off the train, into the terminal, get your boarding card & cabin key at the Stena Line check-in desk and walk straight onto the overnight ferry to Hoek van Holland.  The superferry Stena Britannica is the largest ferry of its kind in the world.  All passengers travel in private cabins with shower, toilet & satellite TV.  There's free WiFi in the public areas on 9 deck.  The journey from London to Holland is explained in detail on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page See the video.

 

Captain's Class cabin on the Harwich-Hoek ferry with double bed, complimentary minibar with sparkling wine, tea & coffee making facilities, hairdryer.  Larger photo.

 

Boarding the Stena Britannica at Harwich.  She's a floating hotel to Hoek van Holland, with easy rail connections on either side of the Channel.  Restaurants, bars, shop, kennels, cinema.

Metropolitan restaurant on the Stena Line ferry  

Dinner before bed?

 

Standard outside cabin.  Larger photo.  360Ί photo.

2. Amsterdam to Stuttgart by ICE

ICEs are German Railways' premier trains, with 1st & 2nd class, a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

ICE3 at Amsterdam Centraal

An ICE3M to Frankfurt at Amsterdam.  More about ICE trains.

2nd class on the Frankfurt-Brussels ICE3M train   1st class on the Frankfurt-Brussels ICE3M train

2nd class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

 

1st class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

Erdinger Weissbier on the Frankfurt-Brussels ICE train   Restaurant car on the Frankfurt-Brussels ICE3M train

Proper china, metal cutlery.  I recommend the Erdinger Weissbier!  See current month's menu.

 

Restaurant car:  This is the small 12-seat restaurant area on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

3. Stuttgart to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  The sleeper used to run Munich-Zagreb, but is extended to run Stuttgart-Munich-Zagreb from 11 December 2022.  Zagreb station guide.

The 'Lisinski' sleeper train from Munic to Zagreb, boarding in Munich

Above, the air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car to Zagreb is boarding at Munich Hbf.  It has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as 1, 2 or 3 berth, with toilets at the end of the corridor.  Compartments convert to a private sitting room for evening or morning use.  A light breakfast is included in the sleeper fare.

The Croatian couchette car is the next vehicle to the right, also modern & air-conditioned with 4 & 6 bunk compartments, ideal for families.  Couchettes convert from bunks to seats for evening or morning use.

Sleeper compartment in the Croatian sleeping-car from Munich to Zagreb   Sleeper compartment in the Croatian sleeping-car from Munich to Zagreb   4 or 6-berth couchettes on train from Munich to Zagreb

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper.

 

Set up as a single-berth.

 

4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360Ί photo.

Scenery between Ljubljana, Zagreb & Belgrade

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava.

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London to Split & Dubrovnik

Option 1 is to travel from London to Zagreb by Eurostar & sleeper train, then take a Zagreb-Split intercity train.  This option works every day, year round.

Option 2 is to travel to Vienna and use the Vienna-Split sleeper, this runs 3 times a week from May to October.  This is a wonderful option if the dates suit.

Option 3 is to travel by train from London to Bari in Italy, then sail across the Adriatic to Split in a cosy cabin on an overnight ferry.

Option 1, London to Split & Dubrovnik by train

London Split, Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik, Split London

How much does it cost?

How to buy tickets

Zagreb to Split by ICN train

Traveller Francis Meylan reports:  "The journey to Split was fascinating and very scenic.  It was a modern diesel train with a free cup of coffee (though no food).  Single track but recently re-engineered and was very smooth despite climbing and very many bends, tunnels, and so forth.  The track went across high embankments and on ledges on valley sides.  It wasn't particularly fast and I can see why.  Every country station had a uniformed station master standing to attention as the train went past!  Many of the country stations were in ruins and there were obvious signs of war damage, walls pock marked with bullet holes.  We could see several minefields marked off.  In Knin the front of the large Austro-Hungarian-style town hall was riddled with bullet holes. Towards Split the landscape is very dry, limestone I think, and very rocky.  If you took the Sleeper would miss all this!

An ICN train Zagreb at Split station   1st class seats on the fast tilting ICN train from Zagreb to Split

The daytime trains to Split:  These fast, tilting, air-conditioned ICN trains link Zagreb & Split once or twice a day through great scenery.  Above right, first class seats on the train to Split.  below left, second class seats.  You can now buy tickets online at www.hzpp.hrExterior photos courtesy of Gareth Davison.

2nd class seats on the tilting ICN train from Zagreb to Split   ICN train to Split at Zagreb station
Scenery seen from the Zagreb-Split train

Scenery between Zagreb and Split seen from the train.  Photo courtesy of Pαraic Maguire.

Option 2, using the Vienna - Split sleeper (May to October)

This is an excellent option if you're travelling between May & October.  The Brussels-Vienna & Paris-Vienna sleeper trains currently run 3 days per week and their days of running don't match up well with the 3-days-a-week Vienna-Split sleeper.  However, the Brussels-Vienna & Paris-Vienna sleepers should become daily in early 2024, so by summer 2024 you'll be able to leave London in the afternoon on day 1, spend day 2 at leisure in Vienna, and arrive in Split on the morning of day 3.  No flight necessary!

London Split, Dubrovnik

  • Step 2, travel from Vienna to Split by direct sleeper train, 3 times a week May-October.

    It runs on Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays from 3 May to 2 October 2024.

    It leaves Vienna Hbf at 18:05 and arrives in Split at 08:10 next morning.

    The train starts its journey in Bratislava.  It has three comfortable air-conditioned Slovakian sleeping-cars with 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, a Slovakian couchette car with 4 & 6 berth couchettes and ordinary seats.  You can see details of train formation & carriages if you go to www.vagonweb.cz switch it to English, click train formations and search for train number EN 1153.

  • Step 3, take a bus from Split to Dubrovnik.  There are buses every hour or even every half hour, run by several companies.  Journey time between 3h45 and 4h35, fare around €13-€17.  Buy a ticket at the bus station in Split.

Dubrovnik, Split London

  • Step 1, take a bus from Dubrovnik to Split.

    Buses leave Dubrovnik bus terminal every hour or even every half hour and take between 3h45 and 4h35 to Split bus terminal.  There are various operators, the fare is between €13 and €17.  Buy at the bus station on the day, it's easy.

  • Step 2, travel from Split to Vienna by EuroNight sleeper train, 3 times a week May-October.

    The sleeper train runs on Mondays, Thursdays & Saturdays from 4 May to 3 October 2024.

    It leaves Split at 17:20 and arrives Vienna Hbf at 08:54.

    The train has three comfortable air-conditioned Slovakian sleeping-cars with 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, a Slovakian couchette car with 4 & 6 berth compartments and ordinary seats.  The train continues to Bratislava.  You can see details of train formation & carriages if you go to www.vagonweb.cz switch it to English, click train formations and search for train number EN 1152.

  • Step 1, travel from Vienna to London using any of the options shown on the UK to Austria page.

    For example, you can take the 3-times-a-week Nightjet sleeper train from Vienna to Brussels, then a Eurostar to London.

    This sleeper train should be increased to daily by the summer of 2024, so you can leave Split in late afternoon on day 1, spend day 2 at leisure in Vienna, and arrive in London at 14:00 on day 3. 

    Or take the Vienna-Paris sleeper then a lunchtime Eurostar to London, see the UK to Austria page.

How much does it cost?

  • For fares from London to Vienna see the London-Vienna section on the Austria page.

  • Fares from Vienna to Split start at €29.90 in a seat, €49 in a couchette, €79.90 in a 3-bed sleeper, €99.90 in a 2-bed sleeper, €149.90 in a single-bed sleeper.

  • A bus from Split to Dubrovnik costs €13-€17.

How to buy tickets

Scenery from the Vienna-Split train

What a journey!  Scenery between Zagreb & Split seen from the sleeper train.  Photos courtesy of Rob Romans.

Sleeping-car on the train from Bratislava & Vienna to Split   Sleeper compartment on the train from Bratislava & Vienna to Split

The comfortable air-conditioned Slovakian sleeping-cars on the train from Bratislava & Vienna to Split, arrived at Split station.  Each compartment can be sold as a single, double or triple, and comes with soap, towel, fully-made up beds and a washbasin.  A light breakfast is included. Larger photo. Photo of 2-berth, courtesy of Michael Allsop.

Couchette compartment, of sort used on the train from Bratislava & Vienna to Split   Couchette car on the train from Bratislava & Vienna to Split

A couchette car on the train from Bratislava & Vienna, arrived at Split. Larger photo.

Option 3, London to Italy by train, ferry to Dubrovnik, Split or Zadar

Ancona to Split ferries in Split Harbour   Deluxe cabin onm Ancona to Split ferry

Ferries in Split Harbour.  Above right, a deluxe cabin on the Blue Line ferry (although Blue Line is sadly no longer operating), which even features an en suite jacuzzi.  Photos courtesy of Andrew Leo.

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London to Hvar, Korčula, Vis, Brač

Take a train from the UK to Split, then a ferry.  Departures are daily, all year round.

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London to Rijeka

Option 1, by direct Stuttgart-Rijeka sleeper

  • From 9 December to 8 January, 22 March to 8 April & 9 May to 29 September 2024, a direct Croatian sleeping-car operates from Stuttgart to Rijeka, leaving Stuttgart Hbf at 20:29 and arriving Rijeka at 11:12.

    Take Eurostar to Paris and a TGV to Stuttgart to connect with it, see the London-Zagreb section for details.

    It runs back from Rijeka to Stuttgart from 8 December to 7 January, 21 March to 7 April & 8 May to 28 September 2024.

Option 2, changing at Ljubljana, all year

London Rijeka

Rijeka ► London

Fares & how to buy tickets

The afternoon train from Ljubljana to Rijeka, about the leave Ljubljana   The afternoon train from Ljubljana to Rijeka, about the leave Ljubljana

The train to Rijeka.  This is the afternoon train to Rijeka, about to leave Ljubljana.  At the front is a modern air-conditioned EuroCity car, the other two cars are older.  On this occasion, it's waited a few minutes for the late-running EuroCity Sava to arrive from Munich, with connections from Paris, Amsterdam & London.

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London to Porec, Rovinj, Pula & Istria

Istria, land of olive oil, wineries and truffles, was once part of the Venetian empire, and after a spell with the Austro-Hungarians it was again part of Italy between the wars.  Even today, the dual-language place names and road signs reveal it's Italian heritage.  For Istrian tourist information, see www.istra.hr.  Now part of Croatia, Istria can be reached overland from the UK in a couple of ways.

Option 1:  By train from London to Ljubljana, then train to Pula

Option 2:  By train from London to Rijeka, then bus to Porec, Rovinj, Buje, Motovun, Pula

This is another reliable all-year-round way to reach Istria, as mainline trains run to Rijeka which is a hub for buses serving destinations all over Istria.  First, travel from London to Rijeka as shown above.  On arrival in Rijeka, walk out of the station and turn right.  The bus station is 2 minutes walk straight down this main road, you can't miss it.  Every couple of hours, buses link Rijeka with the historic coastal town of Porec, delightful picturesque Rovinj, and the wonderful roman remains in Pula.  The main bus company is www.autotrans.hr, you can easily buy bus tickets when you get to Rijeka.

Option 3:  By train to Venice, then fast ferry to Porec, Rovinj or Pula

This option operates from April to October, and is a great option as it combines Venice with Istria. 

First, travel from London to Venice as shown on the London to Italy page.  For example, travel by Eurostar & TGV to Switzerland, stay the night there, then travel through the Alps to Milan and Venice next day.  The choice is yours. 

Venezia Lines (www.venezialines.com) operate ferries from Venice April-October on various days of the week to Porec, Rovinj (Rovigno in Italian) Umag and Pula (Pola in Italian).  The Venice-Porec ferry crossing takes 2½ hours.  Start by checking the days the ferries operate at www.venezialines.com.  On days when a 17:00 ferry sails from Venice you can leave London in the afternoon on day 1, spend most of day 2 in Venice, and arrive in Porec or Rovinj in the evening of day 2!

Rovinj, Istria   Church tower, Porec   Roman arch, Pula

Rovinj:  The picturesque seaside town of Rovinj.  The church tower looks very like St Marks in Venice, showing Istria's Venetian history.

 

Porec:  You can climb the UNESCO-listed church tower in Porec.

 

Pula:  The Roman arch, Pula.  The famous Irish writer James Joyce taught English in the building on the left 1904-5.

Venezia Lines fast ferry at Rovinj   Bus at Porec bus station

www.venezialines.com link Venice & Istria, April-October.  Why not combine a visit to Venice with Istria?

 

Buses link Rijeka with most destinations in Istria, www.autotrans.hr.

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Holidays to Croatia by train

Railbookers can custom-make a flight-free holiday to Croatia with train travel, transfers & hotels all arranged for you, for however long you like, leaving on any date you like.  If you tell them what you want, they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels and sort it all out for you.  They get a lot of repeat business and a lot of recommendation by word of mouth!

UK flag  UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk

US flag  US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

Canadian flag  Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

Australian flag  Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website

New Zealand flag  New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

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European Rail Timetable & maps

Thomas Cook European Timetable -  click to buy onlineTraveller's Railway Map of Europe - buy onlineThe European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted.  See an extract from the map.  Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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Guidebooks

You should take a good guidebook.  I think that the Lonely Planets and the Rough Guides are easily the best for the independent traveller.  Both guides have plenty of background historical and cultural information, plus lots of practical information.  You won't regret buying one of these guides..!

Click the images to buy at Amazon

My own book, an essential handbook for train travel to Europe based on this website called "The Man in Seat 61", was published in June 2008, and is available from Amazon.co.uk with shipping worldwide.

Rough Guide Slovenia - click to buy at Amazon Lonely Planet Slovenia - click to buy at Amazon Lonely Planet Eastern Europe - buy online at Amazon

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Hotels in Zagreb & Croatia

In Zagreb: The Esplanade Hotel

Book a room at the venerable & historic Esplanade Hotel If you can possibly afford it - it's not even expensive by western standards.  Built in 1925 for Orient Express passengers stopping at Zagreb.  It's perfectly located, next to the station and an easy walk from Zagreb old town.  With art deco features, it's the top choice!

For something slightly cheaper, but still close to Zagreb's main station with good or great reviews, try the Palace Hotel, also a historic building with art nouveau features.  I can also recommend the more modern Central Hotel.

Suggested hotels in Split

For something special if your budget will stretch, try the Murum Heritage Hotel, set in part of Roman emperor Diocletian's palace, right in the centre near the port & city museum.  For something cheaper, but still in that same central historic area, try the Sleep Split Hotel or the ID Regal Residence, both with great reviews.

Find hotels at Booking.comMy favourite hotel search: www.booking.com

Booking.com is my favourite hotel booking site and I generally use it to book all my hotels in one place.  I've come to trust booking.com's review scores, you won't be disappointed with any hotel that scores 8.0 or more.  Crucially, booking.com usually lets you book with free cancellation, which means you can confirm accommodation risk-free before train booking opens and/or you can hold accommodation while you finalise your itinerary and alter your plans as they evolve - a feature I use all the time when planning a trip.  I never book hotels non-refundably!

Backpacker hostels

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in Paris and most other European cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & other tips

 

Staysure travel insurance

 

Columbus Direct logo

Always take out travel insurance

You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer.  It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit.  These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself.  Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.

UK flag  www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection and gets 4.7 out of 5 on Trustpilot.

UK flag  www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.

US flag  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

 

Maya.net logo

Get an eSIM with mobile data package

Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a European mobile data package and stay connected.  Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list.  There's no need to buy a physical SIM card!  Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.

 

Curve card

Curve card

Get a Curve card for foreign travel

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate then add a foreign transaction fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader.  The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than getting a card out).  I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.

 

Express VPN

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  Why you need a VPN

When travelling you may use free public WiFi which is often insecure.  A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi.  It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply.  See VPNs & why you need one explainedExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using this link you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription.  I also get some commission to help support this site.

 

Anker Powerrbank

Carry an Anker powerbank

Tickets, reservations, hotel bookings and Interrail or Eurail passes are often now held on your mobile phone.  You daren't let it run out of power, and you can't always rely on the phone's internal battery or on being near a power outlet.  I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over.  Buy from Amazon.co.uk or Buy from Amazon.com.

Touring cities?  Use hill walking shoes!

One of the best things I've done is swap my normal shoes for hill-walking shoes, in my case from Scarpa.  They're intended for hiking across the Pennines not wandering around Florence, but the support and cushioning for hiking works equally well when you're on your feet all day exploring foreign cities.  My feet used to give out first and limit my day, now the rest of me gives up before they do!

 


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