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See Egypt by train...

Egypt is fabulous, and Cairo one of the most fascinating cities in the world.  There's no need to book a tour, it's easy to travel round Egypt independently.  Egyptian Railways are easily the most comfortable way to travel between Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, Alexandria, Port Said & Suez.  The views from the train can be wonderful, especially along the Nile amongst the fields and palm trees on the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan and Cairo-Alexandria routes.  As so often, the train journeys give you an insight into the country.

Train times & fares for Egypt

Cairo to Alexandria

Cairo to Luxor, Isna, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Aswan

Cairo to Suez

Cairo to Port Said

Cairo to El Alamein - Mersa Matruh

Alexandria/Cairo to El Alamein & Mersa Matruh

Alexandria to Port Said

Abu Simbel (bus/ferry service)

Sharm el Sheikh, Hurghada, Siwa Oasis (by bus)

Other Egyptian travel information

How to buy tickets

Train travel restrictions for tourists and how to get around them

Useful country information - visas, dialling code, time zone

Hotels & accommodation in Egypt

International travel to/from Egypt

UK to Egypt without flying

Cairo-Amman-Damascus-Istanbul by bus, train & ferry

Cairo-Khartoum (Sudan) by train & ferry

Cairo-Libya-Tunisia-Morocco

Useful country information

How to check train times for Egypt

You can check mainline train times at https://enr.gov.eg

Train times for key routes are shown below.  Egyptian National Railways now have a website, https://enr.gov.eg, and you can use this to check timetables, although only of the best express trains on main routes, not every slow train.  There is limited train information on the Egyptian national tourist office website www.touregypt.net.  It you're travelling between Cairo, Luxor & Aswan, remember the read the section about tourist train travel restrictions.

Buying tickets at the station...

It's fairly easy to buy tickets at the station ticket office when you get to Egypt, although as this is Egypt a degree of patience is called for!  Cairo main station has several booking windows, one for each class and group of destinations, so check that you are joining the right queue.  You can pay for train tickets in Egyptian pounds, except for the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan deluxe sleeper which must be paid in foreign currency (dollars, euros or pounds sterling) at the separate El Watania sleeper office.  Except during busy periods, it's normally easy to get 1st class tickets on the day of travel or the day before.  The deluxe overnight sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor and Aswan often has places available if you book a day or two in advance, but at peak tourist times such as Easter it can get fully-booked by tour groups, so pre-booking is recommended.  On the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan route, you won't be sold tickets for the 'restricted' daytime trains, so either buy a ticket online as shown above, or just get on the train without a ticket and pay on board, see the section on tourist train travel restrictions which explains all this!

	Buy daytime train tickets online at https://enr.gov.eg

Buy tickets online for daytime express trains at https://enr.gov.eg...

You can now book tickets online for the air-conditioned express trains between Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor & Aswan:

• What tickets can it book?  The system will book 1st & 2nd class tickets on the main air-conditioned express trains between Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor & Aswan, up to 2 weeks ahead.  To buy tickets for the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan sleeper trains, see the next section.

• What won't it book?  It won't book the sleeper trains between Cairo, Luxor or Aswan, only the daytime express trains.  It will not book 3rd class tickets, or tickets for slow trains, or tickets to other destinations such as Mersa Matruh or Port Said or smaller stations such as Edfu or Kom Ombo.  Or book tickets further ahead than about 2 weeks.  It also seems to book trains from Aswan to Luxor, but not from Luxor to Aswan.

• Can foreign tourists use this system?  Yes.  It allows you to select 'United Kingdom' and other overseas countries from a drop-down list when registering and when booking a ticket.  After selecting 'United Kingdom' it will happily book a daytime seats train from Cairo to Luxor, with no sign of any problem with the tourist restrictions.  Result!  The small print says it only accepts Egyptian credit cards, but I can confirm it accepts my own UK Visa credit card, and it uses the 'verified by Visa' additional security system.  So give it a go.

• Limitations:  You can only book a maximum of 2 seats on Cairo-Luxor-Aswan trains and 5 seats on Cairo-Alexandria trains.  If you want to buy more tickets than this, you'll have to book via a travel agency or at the station as below (or perhaps create two separate accounts using a different name and credit card).  There are a few other limitations, see their terms and conditions.

• How to buy tickets online:  Go to https://enr.gov.eg and sign up, a simple process.  Enter your passport number in the 'National ID' box.  You are emailed an activation code to start your account.

• When activated, log in again and click on 'Make reservation'.  Select stations, class, and a date within the next 2 weeks.  It will not book further ahead than this.  You can leave 'offset' and time blank.

• You print out your own reservation details with date, time, train number, car & seat number.

• You can board the train with just this printout and the credit card used to make the booking, as long as the main named traveller is the owner of the credit card.  If you've used someone else's card, then you'll need a photocopy of the front of the credit card, passport, and reservation details.

• Feedback would be very welcome if you use this system, successfully or unsuccessfully.

• Traveller Ian Green booked tickets from Cairo to Luxor in 2011:  "We bought our train tickets online at the Egyptian National Railways website https://enr.gov.eg having followed your link and signed up.  It took 2 or 3 days until I could log in successfully, but I managed to book tickets online from Cairo to Luxor and from Aswan back to Cairo.  We caught train 980 from Cairo to Luxor in first class leaving at 8am (platform 8) with self-print online tickets costing 187.20 Egyptian pounds between us [about £24, just £12 per ticket] and later took train 983 from Aswan to Cairo again in first class, leaving at 7am, costing 226.72 Egyptian pounds between us [about £29 or £14.50 each].  We had no troubles with our print-at-home tickets, as soon as the conductors saw them they spoke in English.  Quite simple really.  We saw a few other non-Egyptians on the trains, all of whom had had to get around the system by getting people to buy tickets for them, or getting split journey tickets, costing around an extra 100 Egyptian Pounds."

	Buy sleeper tickets online at http://e7gezly.com
	The deluxe sleeper from Cairo to Luxor, arrived at Luxor station on a bright sunny morning... Photo courtesy of Neil Bastock. More sleeper train photos

Buy tickets online for the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan sleeper train at http://e7gezly.com/sleepingtrains

You can now buy tickets online for the overnight deluxe sleeper train between Cairo, Luxor and Aswan.  As from Summer 2012, you can book at http://e7gezly.com/sleepingtrains (click 'Get tickets'), selecting 'Credit card' and paying online with MasterCard or Visa.  You'll receive a confirmation email immediately after booking, and in the next day or two you'll receive a second email from Watania with a PDF file attached with your sleeping-car berth allocation - in fact, it's reported you may now receive tickets by email within 2 hours of booking, but feedback would be appreciated.  There's a small booking fee, only about $5 or so.  Travellers now report success using this new online sleeper booking system, but if for any reason this online system doesn't work for you, see the next section.

Traveller Tim Kaye reports:  "A few weeks ago (early October 2012) we booked the ticket through the online sleeper booking website. The ticket was emailed to us as a PDF within a couple of days. Whilst it doesn't look much like a genuine ticket, there were no problems using it when boarding the train and we found our names listed on a printed manifest for the carriage.  The food was airline style and the beds comfortable, and they woke us up in plenty of time before our arrival into Aswan the following morning."

Or book the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan sleeper train through an agency or call El Watania + 202 374 894 88 or + 202 374 893 88

If the new online system doesn't work for you for whatever reason, there are two other ways you can pre-book the deluxe sleeper train between Cairo, Luxor & Aswan.  Option 1 is to contact a travel agency such as www.osoris.com, www.egyptiants.net, www.safariegypt.com, www.paradisetravelegypt.com and (in Luxor) www.sunrisetours-eg.com.  You'll pay a fee for their services, of course.  Option 2, which avoids a fee but sometimes takes more persistence, is to book direct with the operator El Watania by phone, fax or email.  Times & fares are shown below or (if it's working!) shown on the Watania sleeper train website, www.wataniasleepingtrains.com.  To book direct with Watania, e-mail your booking request to info@egwst.com or fax it to + 202 37 489 680 quoting your email address or simply phone their reservation office on + 202 374 893 88 or + 202 374 894 88 (lines open 09:00 to 15:00 Egyptian time, daily except Fridays, English spoken, feedback always appreciated!).  They will email you a booking reference and you can pick up the tickets and pay for them in Egyptian pounds, US Dollars or euros at the Watania reservation office, 48 Giza Street, Orman Building, first floor apartment No.14, at least 24 hours before departure between 09:00 & 15:00 any day except Fridays.  It's in the same block as the Cairo Sheraton Hotel, next to the HSBC Bank.  If you cannot pick up tickets at least 24 hours in advance at these times, then book through a travel agency as recommended above, paying a booking fee.  One traveller has reported that it's easier to pick up the tickets directly from the Watania sleeper office at Giza Station which is very easy to reach on the efficient Cairo Metro (www.cairometro.gov.eg).  The 'Sleeping Car Office' is located in an old portacabin about 20m to the right of the main ticket windows on the external entrance to Giza's mainline station.

Buy tickets via an agency: www.osoris.com, www.safariegypt.com, www.paradisetravelegypt.com.

If you want to book Egyptian train tickets in advance before you leave home and the Egyptian Railways online system doesn't work for you, or you want to book the deluxe sleeper from Cairo to Upper Egypt, you can easily arrange tickets by e-mail through an Egyptian travel agency.  Reputable agencies include www.osoris.com, www.egyptiants.net, www.safariegypt.com, www.paradisetravelegypt.com and (in Luxor) www.sunrisetours-eg.com.  Osoris has been highly recommended by quite a few seat61 correspondents.  They charge about $10 higher than the normal ticket price, plus a $5 booking fee if you collect the tickets from their office in Cairo, a $25 booking fee if you want them delivered to your hotel, $25 for delivery to the airport to meet your flight, or $20 to meet you with the tickets at Cairo railway station.  They also make a 6% credit card charge, at least on days when they feel like accepting credit cards rather than Western Union transfers!  To buy tickets through them, e-mail them at egypt@osoris.com,  call + 20 2 302 8561 or fax + 20 2 3464146.  Feedback on agencies, good or bad, is always welcome.  Although Osoris has been recommended by several travellers, one traveller has reported poor service. Paradise Travel & SafariEgypt have had no reports as yet.  I have removed Egyptlegend (www.egyptlegend.com/trainreservation.htm) after two bad reports.  Bear in mind that credit cards are not always accepted by small Egyptian travel agencies, a Western Union transfer is often necessary.  On the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan route, these agencies may or may not be prepared to sell you a ticket for the 'restricted' daytime trains, so if they won't, simply forget trying to book, just get on the train without a ticket and pay on board, see the section on tourist train travel restrictions for details.  One report says that www.osoris.com will book seats on the 'restricted' daytime trains from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan.

Learn Arabic numbers...

A top tip for train travel in Egypt is to learn Arabic numbers.  The indicator boards at main stations often use Arabic numerals to show train numbers, departure times and platform numbers, only main ones show western numbers.  If you know Arabic numbers, you can read these, making it easy to find your train from the departure time, even if you can't read the destination.  Arabic numbers are written left-to-right, exactly like western numbers, even though Arabic words are written right-to-left.  To print these Arabic numbers, right-click the image and click 'print picture'.

Taxis in Cairo & Alexandria...

Always use a white taxi as these are metered, and are a fairly cheap way to get from anywhere in central Cairo to the station, typically LE10-LE15 (£1-£2 or $2-$3)a trip.  Make sure the meter is switched on.  Black & white taxis do not have meters and you will need to agree a price before you get in, so they usually work out much more expensive.  Alexandria's yellow & black taxis do not have meters, so agree a price before getting in.

Cairo-Luxor-Aswan train restrictions for tourists...

Since the terrorist attacks in Egypt some years ago, the Egyptian government has put restrictions on which trains foreigners may take between Cairo and Luxor/Aswan, allegedly so that the government can assure tourists' safety.  There are no restrictions on other routes such as Cairo to Alexandria or Suez or Port Said, where you can take any train you like, it's just the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan route.  Details are almost impossible to confirm, and it doesn't help that the UK Egyptian Tourist Office denies any knowledge of these restrictions.  However, it's reported that since 1 March 2009, the ONLY trains between Cairo and Luxor or Aswan for which tourists will be sold tickets are the overnight deluxe sleeper trains, either in the sleeping-cars or the seats cars, and possibly also the 22:00 ordinary seats express from Cairo (train number 2000).  The daytime trains are officially 'for Egyptians only'.  You can take a wider selection of trains if you're only travelling between Aswan & Luxor.  If you have more information please email me, as there is little or no concrete information on the net about these restrictions.

...and here's how to get around these restrictions:

Naturally, you may want to get around these unfair restrictions, and travel on a daytime air-conditioned express along the scenic Nile Valley just for the experience, or use an ordinary train if the deluxe sleepers are fully-booked (as they often are at Easter, for example), or simply to save a few pounds if you're on a very tight budget.  Or just to strike a blow for freedom!  In practice, all these restrictions really mean is that the ticket offices at Cairo, Luxor & Aswan will refuse to sell you a ticket for any train except those trains which tourists are officially allowed to take, so here are the options.

• Option 1, book online!  The Egyptian Railways online booking system will now book daytime express trains and overnight seats trains between Cairo-Luxor and Aswan up to 2 weeks ahead, and will allow overseas users to buy tickets without any apparent problem with the travel restrictions.  See the online booking section above.  Several western travellers have already reported success with this option.  If you have any problems booking online, try options 2 or 3...

• Option 2, ask an Egyptian travel agency or your hotel to buy your ticket:  You can try asking your hotel to send someone to buy a ticket for your chosen train for a small fee, then you can board the train.  This may or may not work, some reports suggest it will, some that it won't.  Two reports have said that travel agency www.osoris.com is prepared to book seats for westerners on the 'restricted' daytime trains from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan, if you politely decline the tourist sleeper train and politely insist that you're only interested in the day train, not the sleeper, even if they at first tell you that it's for 'Egyptians only'.

• Option 3, board without a ticket & buy on the train:  The simplest option of all is just to find and board whatever train you like and buy a ticket on board, which you can do on payment of a small surcharge (a mere pound or two!).  There are no barriers to stop you, and it saves you the hassle of trying to buy a ticket beforehand!  All reports received from people who have done this say there is absolutely no problem whatsoever.  The only drawback is you may not get a seat if the train is crowded, so better to use the online booking option if you can.

Travellers' reports...

Here's a report from someone who successfully booked their Cairo to Luxor daytime tickets online (Sept 2011):  "We bought our train tickets online at the Egyptian National Railways website having followed your instructions and signed up.  It took 2 or 3 days until I could log in successfully, but I managed to book tickets online from Cairo to Luxor and from Aswan back to Cairo.  We caught train 980 from Cairo to Luxor in first class leaving at 8am (platform 8) with self-print online tickets costing 187.20 Egyptian pounds between us [about £24, just £12 per ticket] and later took train 983 from Aswan to Cairo again in first class, leaving at 7am, costing 226.72 Egyptian pounds between us [about £29 or £14.50 each].  We had no trouble with our print-at-home tickets on the train, as soon as the conductors saw them they spoke in English.  Quite simple really.  We saw a few other non-Egyptians on the trains, all of whom had had to get around the system by getting people to buy tickets for them, or getting split journey tickets, costing around an extra 100 Egyptian Pounds."

And here's a report from someone who simply got on the train and paid on board (Feb 2010):  "I wanted to use daytime train number 980 leaving Cairo at 08:00 for Luxor [and why not, that's precisely the train I'd want to use!].  I arrived in Cairo on the Sunday and went to the station in the evening to try book my ticket to Luxor for the next day.  I was told that this train was 'for Egyptians only' but was advised to return early on the Monday morning.  I did this, only to be given the same story.  Someone then suggested I board the train and pay on board.  I did this and plonked myself in a first class seat and hoped it was not reserved.  I paid 97 Egyptian pounds (£9 or $16) when asked by the conductor on board and held the seat all the way to Luxor.  When I wanted to return from Luxor back to Cairo I was told the same story, that train number 981 leaving Luxor at 08:30 was not for tourists.  So once again I simply boarded the train and paid on board.  I did get moved from seat to seat this time, but ended up meeting several interesting people.

More feedback (Jan 2011):  "My wife and I were keen to travel from Cairo to Aswan on daytime express train number 980 and attempted to buy tickets at the ticket office.  We were, of course, refused, and pointed towards the overnight train ticket window.  We'd previously used your website when travelling by train through India and, after reading the Egypt section, thought we'd give train 980 a go anyway.  We arrived at Cairo train station at around 7:00am on the 9th of January, 2011 and headed straight for platform 8 (another traveller on your site mentioned this platform for the 980 service); we also confirmed with a few snack-shop owners that this platform was correct. The train pulled up at 7:30am, departed on time at 8:00am, and we bought tickets from a ticket inspector about 30 minutes into our journey with no questions asked.  The rest of the trip went smoothly and we arrived at Aswan on time, at around 9:00pm."

More feedback (Oct 2010):  "You can indeed still buy tickets on board the daytime train from Cairo to Luxor. The ticket inspector was knowing and affable and had no qualms with selling it to me. He even confirmed that I was indeed in first class and charged me just 96LE to Luxor. I'd like to voice my gratitude to others who have left feedback here because I met not one person in Cairo who could confirm the situation, and every Egyptian (including the folks in the hostel) advised me strongly against it, some for their own gains (selling tours etc). However some just didn't know for sure and strangely took the rigid approach. Have confidence!  The trip is scenic and worth it. A day of the interesting countryside of Egypt without the hassle. A winner!

...and some more feedback:  "On Friday 28/05/2010 we travelled on the 7am train from Aswan to Luxor 1st class air con.  My girlfriend had tried to get tickets the night before in the somewhat shorter female-only queue, but was told they couldn't sell tickets to tourists and to buy them on the train.  The next day we did as told, waltzed through the security barrier, asked a policeman and he showed us where to get the 1st class train.  There were only about 10 passengers in total in the three 1st class carriages, so no problems at all.  The cost was 47 LE each, and arrived on time.  A good experience, just shame we wasted 20 minutes trying and failing to buy a ticket at the ticket office the previous day!"

...and yet more feedback:  One correspondent reports (January 2010) "At both Aswan and Luxor, but not the smaller stations, there was an airport-style security barrier, where they X-ray selected passengers' baggage.  However, there was no ticket check at the barrier.  Everyone including the tourist office, police, and railway staff said we could go on the ordinary [restricted] trains if we paid the small surcharge for buying a ticket on board, the restriction was only on buying the tickets in advance."   Another report (February 2010) confirms that there are no checks or barriers in Cairo main station preventing you accessing the platforms and boarding any train you like and paying on board. 

and a bit more...  I travelled in June 2010, and nothing has changed, there are no barriers, you can just board the train.  I boarded the 08:00 air-con express train from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan (always go for first class!) and simply paid on board.  The same worked on the return journey.  However, as you haven't got a booked seat you may find yourself moved about.  I had no problem keeping my seat down to Aswan on the outward trip.  But the train was very crowded on the return and as we got nearer to Cairo many people were standing including me.  But no one got angry or stressed.  A kind Egyptian bloke then let me perch on his arm rest and shared his sandwich with me.  Great journey -13 hours ! Great country.  Great people."

and here's some more... "In August 2010 my wife and I took the day train leaving from Cairo and it worked out just as it was detailed on this website and reported by others. If you find it useful, here's another case study for your site.  We arrived at the train station at 07:15.  We heard the train pull into platform 8 around 07:30 and proceeded straight through the security checkpoint. I was a little nervous with the large, blue signs saying "please present your ticket", but no one was checking tickets and we were soon standing on platform 8.  The 1st class cars were closer to us with the 2nd class cars further down the platform. An attendant was standing in the doorway and we enlisted the help of another Egyptian to get us seated on the train and gave him a bit of baksheesh for his efforts. The train departed right on time and around Giza the conductor came through.  We paid him 192 EP for the two of us. We kept our seats the whole way and the train pulled into Luxor at 18:00."

If you have any more feedback on the 'restrictions' issue, please email me.

The train service between Alexandria and Cairo is excellent.  There are broadly two sorts of train:   Modern air-conditioned express trains with comfortable 1st & 2nd class seats, not dissimilar to European trains, using either 'Spanish' or 'French' carriages, and ordinary trains with very basic non-air-con 2nd & 3rd class (plus air-con 2nd class on some trains).  A 1st class one-way ticket for an air-conditioned express from Cairo to Alexandria costs about LE 50, less than £6 or $9!

Cairo ► Alexandria  (continued)
Train type:		Special	Exp	Ord	Exp	Ord	Exp	Ord	Special	Ord	Ord	Special	Ord	Exp	Ord	Special	Special
Train number:		2001	915	27	923	199	925	33	921	25	31	927	157	931	29	1919	935
Cairo	depart	1500	1510	1525	1600	1615	1715	1725	1800	1810	1840	1900	1920	2015	2030	2100	2230
Alexandria	arrive	1740	1800	1845	1915	1940	2015	2110	2030	2120	2215	2130	2210	2315	0030	2330	0100

Special = Extra-fast air-conditioned express train using Spanish carriages, 1st & 2nd class with refreshments, either non-stop or only stopping at Tanta.  These are the best trains.  Originally operated by a French gas-turbine 'turbotrain', but since December 2007 by regular air-conditioned carriages as the fuel-thirsty turbotrains were too expensive to maintain.

Exp = Fast air-conditioned express train using French-built carriages with 1st & 2nd class and refreshments, usually making several intermediate stops.  Also recommended.

Ord = Ordinary train, not normally used by tourists.  Basic 2nd & 3rd class, not air-conditioned.

How to buy tickets.  Fares are shown below.  You can check these times & fares at https://enr.gov.eg.

Cairo-Alexandria is 208 km (129 miles).

Alexandria ► Cairo
Train type:		Ord	Ord	Exp	Special	Ord	Ord	Special	Exp	Ord	Exp	Ord	Special	Ord	Ord	Exp	Ord
Train number:		198	8	902	906	158	10	904	900	12	910	14	912	164	18	914	20
Alexandria	depart	0330	0520	0600	0700	0715	0725	0800	0815	0915	1000	1045	1200	1215	1230	1300	1330
Cairo	arrive	0700	0900	0915	0930	1015	1150	1030	1115	1330	1255	1355	1430	1515	1600	1615	1745

Alexandria ► Cairo  (continued)
Train type:		Special	Ord	Special	Exp	Ord	Special	Special	Ord	Special	Special	Exp	Exp	Ord	Special
Train number:		916	24	918	922	196	88	928	32	926	2000	1912	930	30	934
Alexandria	depart	1400	1430	1500	1530	1545	1645	1800	1820	1900	1930	2000	2000	2125	2200
Cairo	arrive	1630	1840	1730	1830	1855	1925	2030	2150	2130	2210	2225	2300	0020	0030

How much does it cost?	1st class air-con express	2nd class air-con express	2nd class ordinary train *
Cairo - Alexandria (Special express train)	LE 52 (£6 or $9)	LE 36 (£4 or $6)	-
Cairo - Alexandria (Express train)	LE 36 (£5 or $7)	LE 26 (£3 or $5)	-
Cairo - Alexandria (Ordinary train)	-	-	LE  7 (£1 or $2)

* not usually offered to foreigners.   LE = Egyptian pounds. 

 If you have an ISIC student card, this used to give you a 33% reduction, although one report says this is no longer the case.

Children aged 0 to 3 travel free, children 4 to 9 travel at half fare, children 10 and over pay full fare.

On board an air-conditioned express from Cairo to Alexandria...

Spanish trains:  At Alexandria Misr station, an air-conditioned Spanish express train has arrived from Cairo. Courtesy Adrian Smith.		1st class on a Cairo-Alexandria Spanish train. Photo courtesy of Adrian Smith.

French trains:  Air-con 2nd class on a French train		Air-conditioned 1st class seats on a French train.		An air-conditioned express train, with stainless-steel French carriages.

---

Cairo to Luxor & Aswan

You can travel between Cairo, Luxor and Aswan on 4 different types of train:

▶ Overnight deluxe sleeper train (1 & 2-bed sleepers & lounge car, shown as sleeper below, see photos below, recommended)

▶ Daytime air-conditioned express trains (shown as Exp in the timetable below, recommended)

▶ Overnight air-conditioned express trains (with seats, also shown as Exp in the timetable below, but at night a sleeper is recommended)

▶ Daytime ordinary slow trains, not air-conditioned, very basic, and not usually taken by tourists (shown as Ord below).

Recommended trains are shown in bold, but see the advice on tourist train restrictions.  Tourists won't be sold tickets for the daytime trains at stations, only for the deluxe sleeper.  So for daytime travel either book online as shown here or simply get on & pay on board.

Cairo ► Luxor ► Aswan
Train type:		Exp**	Exp	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Ord+	Exp	sleeper	Exp	sleeper	sleeper	Exp	Exp**	Exp
Train number:		1902	934	980	80	158	982	160	164	1434	988	84	88	86****	82***	976	996	886
Alexandria	depart	-	2200	-	-	0715	-	-	1140	-	-	-	1645	-	-	-	-	-
Cairo	depart	0005	0100	08:00	0730	1030	12:00	1230	1530	1820	1900	-	2000	20:15	-	2100	2200	2315
Giza	depart	0035	0120	08:20	0750	1050	12:20	1250	1550	1840	1925	20:00	2025	|	21:35	2125	2225	2340
Luxor	arr/dep	0945	1030	18:15	1920	2105	22:20	2325	0150	0350	0425	05:20	0620	06:40	07:10	0700	0735	0900
Isna *	arrive	1040	-	19:00	2010	-	23:30	-	0240	|	0515	|	0717	07:25	08:00	-	0820	0950
Edfu *	arrive	1120	-	19:45	2105	-	00:05	-	0330	0520	0600	07:00	0755	08:10	08:45	-	0900	1035
Kom Ombo *	arrive	1230	-	20:45	2210	-	00:55	-	0425	0610	0655	|	0850	09:10	09:45	-	1000	1130
Aswan	arrive	1315	-	22:00	2305	-	01:55	-	0525	0655	0755	08:35	1005	10:20	10:30	-	1110	1220

* = Guesstimated time, please check exact time locally.

** = also has Nefertiti class with 6-seat compartments.

*** = sleeper train 82/83 only runs when required.  Currently stopped until further notice.

**** = Train 86 is currently not authorised for foreigners, please use train 84 instead.  This may change, but that is the situation at the time of writing.

Exp = Express train with air-con 1st & 2nd class seats & refreshments. 

Ord = Ordinary train, not normally used by tourists, basic 2nd & 3rd class seats. 

Ord+ = also has air-con 2nd class.

Sleeper = Deluxe sleeper train run by Watania (previously Abela Egypt), sleeping-cars & lounge car.  Trains 84, 85, 86, 87 run daily & also have 1st class seats.  Trains 82 & 83 only run at peak times.

Cairo to Luxor is 671km (419 miles).  Cairo to Aswan is 879 km (549 miles).   Fares shown below.   How to buy tickets.

Giza station is a fair way from the Pyramids, but if you're staying out that way it can be better than going into Cairo city centre.  You can travel between Cairo & Giza on the Cairo Metro, www.cairometro.gov.eg.

You can check these times & fares at https://enr.gov.eg.

See the section about government tourist restrictions

Aswan ► Luxor ► Cairo
Train type:		Exp	Ord+	Exp	Exp	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Ord+	Exp	Exp	Exp	sleeper	sleeper	sleeper	Exp	Exp**	Exp
Train number:		2003	157	981	983	935	81	993	163	887	977	1903	83 ***	87	85	997	89	989
Aswan	depart	01:00	-	05:00	07:00	-	0930	-	1300	1500	-	1615	19:10	15:45	19:00	1945	2000	2130
Kom Ombo*	depart	01:43	-	05:48	07:48	-	1025	-	1355	1542	-	1648	??:??	17:30	|	2043	2101	2220
Edfu*	depart	02:35	-	06:45	08:40	-	1123	-	1450	1630	-	1740	??:??	18:30	20:45	2137	2158	2315
Isna*	depart	|	-	07:35	09:25	-	1210	-	1540	1715	-	1825	??:??	19:00	|	2222	2246	0002
Luxor	arr/dep	04:15	0730	08:45	10:35	12:00	1315	1430	1645	1820	1900	1945	22:30	19:15	22:30	2315	2345	0100
Giza	arrive	13:20	1755	18:45	21:05	21:40	0045	0155	0245	0345	0425	0510	|	|	|	0845	1005	1020
Cairo	arrive	13:35	1810	19:10	21:20	22:05	0100	0210	0300	0415	0455	0540	08:45	05:15	08:30	0915	1025	1045
Alexandria	arrive	-	2230	-	-	01:00	-	-	0645	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	1340	-

Fares	Deluxe sleeper  (sharing 2-berth)	Deluxe sleeper (sole occupancy)	Seat on overnight sleeper train	1st class air-con express	2nd class air-con express	2nd class non-AC ordinary train
Cairo to Luxor	$ 60 (£36) **	$ 80  (£48) **	LE171 (£21 / $31)	LE 94 (£11 / $17) *	LE 48 (£6 / $9) *	LE 42 (£5 / $8) *
Cairo to Aswan	$ 60 (£36) **	$ 80  (£48) **	LE171 (£21 / $30)	LE 113 (£13 / $21) *	LE 57 (£7 / $11) *	LE 50 (£6 / $10) *
Luxor to Aswan	-	-	$13 (£8)	LE 43 (£6 / $8)	LE 26 (£3 / $5) *	LE 10 (£1 / $2) *

Fares are one-way fares, the price is the same in either direction.

* not sold to tourists at the ticket office, but see the section about tourist travel restrictions and how to get around them.

** fare may be paid in US$, euros, sterling or Egyptian pounds, includes evening meal & breakfast.   

LE = Egyptian pounds.  If you have an ISIC student card this used to give a 33% reduction, it may or may not still do.   How to buy tickets

Children aged 0 to 3 travel free, children 4 to 9 travel at two-thirds fare, children 10 and over pay full fare.  

On the deluxe sleeper train, children aged 4 to 9 pay $45 one-way, children under 3 free (but without a berth, child rate applies if you want them to have a bed).

The deluxe sleeper trains from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan:  www.wataniasleepingtrains.com.  

Sleeper train 84 & (when it's running) train 82 leave from Giza station, not Cairo.  You can travel between Cairo & Giza by taxi or on the Cairo Metro, www.cairometro.gov.eg.  Sleeper train 86 leaves from Cairo's main Ramses station, which is obviously far more convenient for central Cairo, but at the time of writing they won't take bookings from foreigners for this particular train.  Northbound, all trains run to Cairo, not Giza.

The deluxe sleeper train is the best way to travel between Cairo and Luxor or Aswan, saving time and travelling in relative comfort, and it's also an Egyptian experience in its own right.  These trains are run by a private company called El Watania who took over from previous operator Abela Egypt in January 2010.  They have air-conditioned sleeping-cars with secure & lockable 1 & 2-berth rooms and a bar-lounge car, see the photos below.  The fare includes a basic airline-style tray-meal in the evening and simple breakfast.  Room service can serve drinks in your compartment at extra cost.  The compartments have a standard 2-pin shaver socket which can be used to recharge cameras and mobile phones with any suitable 2-pin adaptor.  Sleepers are non-smoking, but you can smoke if you need to in the vestibules at each end of the carriage.  The fare is US$60 per person one-way sharing a 2-berth compartment or US$80 in a single-berth compartment from Cairo to either Luxor or Aswan, payable in Egyptian pounds, US dollars, euros or pounds sterling (dollars or euros preferred, credit cards not accepted).  Children aged 0-3 travel free, children 4-9 $45.  Passengers travelling alone who don't want to pay the single-berth fare can book a berth in a 2-berth compartment and share with another passenger of the same sex.  For more information, see www.wataniasleepingtrains.com.

How to book the deluxe sleeper:  You can now book the sleeper trains online at http://e7gezly.com/sleepingtrains (click 'Get tickets').  You pay online with Visa or MasterCard and will receive a confirmation email immediately after booking. In the next day or two, you'll receive a second email from Watania with a PDF file attached with your sleeping-car berth allocation which is all you need to board the train  in fact, it's reported you may now receive your tickets straight away, within 2 hours of booking, feedback would be appreciated.  If for any reason this method doesn't work for you, use one of the alternative methods by phone or email explained here.  If you book in person at the station a day or two before departure, you may well find places available, but at peak tourist times such as Christmas or Easter it can get fully-booked by tour groups, so if a specific date is important to you, I'd recommend pre-booking.

On board the sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan...

Boarding the sleeper train. Photo courtesy of Steve Hounslow		2-berth sleeper, beds made up. Courtesy of Abela Egypt

2-berth sleeper, beds folded away. Courtesy of Abela Egypt.		Canine security in evidence...  Photo courtesy of Steve Hounslow

Lounge-bar car...  A modern air-conditioned car, refurbished with old-world decor.  Photos courtesy of Neil Bastock

Dinner & breakfast are included in the fare...  Some people find the food OK, others find it disappointing, but these photos show you what to expect.  Feel free to bring your own supplies for a picnic on the train!  Photos courtesy of Neil Bastock.
Watch the sleeper video    Bar car video Short account of an Aswan to Cairo deluxe sleeper train journey. The compartments are shown in evening mode with the beds still folded away...

Travellers' reports:  A journey on the Upper Nile sleeper...

Traveller Sean Sickinger reports:  "On the ticket you're advised to be on the platform at least 30 minutes before departure, although this doesn't mean the train will be on time! On my trip, the train was 30 minutes late leaving Giza and nearly 2 hours late into Luxor, so factor a possible delay into your plans.  Giza mainline station is right next to Giza metro station and there are a few small shops selling snacks or water, plus a small restaurant.  At the station there are small numbers hanging from the platform canopy, these indicate the approximate location of the carriages so if you're booked in car 6, stand next to sign number 6. Don't expect to find any Watania staff on the platform, just wait for the sleeper train on the main platform with everyone else.  You may be approached by people with official looking notebooks offering to help you who ask you for your ticket, but don't show it to them - they write down your name and destination as if they were verifying your ticket, then call their buddies in Luxor who will approach using your name and claiming they are there to pick you up, a basic taxi and hotel scam.  Once the train arrives at the platform, Watania staff will step out in front of each carriage to check your ticket and make sure you get into the right car & compartment. The onboard staff are generally very friendly and helpful.  Car numbers are posted just inside each entrance door, but not outside the train. After the train leaves and people have settled into their compartments, the staff bring you your dinner, as selected when you book your ticket.  The meals are similar to what you would get on an airline, although fairly heavy on breads & starches!  Breakfast is served about one hour prior to arrival at your destination, again, heavy on the bread.  Don't expect the same level of smoothness as a European overnight train, as there's a certain amount of jostling and vibration from the tracks, but overall this is not a bad option to get from Cairo to Luxor or Aswan."

Traveller Jess Painter took the sleeper from Cairo to Luxor and back (2013):  "When boarding from Cairo to Luxor, no-one asked for a marriage certificate, although they checked our tickets as we boarded - onto the wrong carriage, telling us it was the right one, of course!  They serve dinner within an hour which was a piece of breaded chicken, rice, vegetables, potato wedges and some sort of cake.  I preferred to eat my tuna sandwiches but my friend ate the train food happily enough.  An hour later, just after 10pm, they come around to turn the seats into beds.  Next time I'll ask for this to be done straight away as the beds are much more comfortable than the seats, two people can sit on the bottom bunk playing cards very comfortably.  The rooms have a sink so you can brush your teeth, with bottled water if you have some, and there's a power socket so you can keep everything charged in the case of a delay.  There is a lounge car on the train but it didn't appear to be open, no drinks were available so people must take their own, alcohol included if you want to sleep better!  Breakfast was very basic, something claiming to be a croissant, a bread roll and a selection of jam, butter and cheese spread.  They also serve tea and coffee, which I don't drink but my friend said they were disgusting!  The toilets are cleaned at regular intervals but you have to time it right. There are two toilets per carriage. You might go in one time and have a horrendous greeting and decide to wait you might go in another time and feel comfortable enough to use the facilities! They permit smoking on the trains but not in the cabins, only at either end of the carriage. So it's best to leave your door shut so the wafting smoke doesn't enter your cabin, even though this can feel a little claustrophobic at times!  Very easy to pick up a taxi from outside the station once in Luxor, it's LE20 (£2) to any hotel (don't pay any extra), but if you can use some broken Arabic you will get them down to LE10, begrudgingly.  The return journey was much the same except that tickets weren't checked on the platform, again no marriage certificate check.  Tickets were not even checked on board.  We asked for our beds to be made up immediately, passed on dinner as it was already 10.30pm when we boarded, and we slept right through until 8am.  I had slept badly on the outward trip, thinking that the bunk bed was going to fall due to the rockiness of the train, but knowing what to expect made the return journey easier and we were so sleepy after a 5am hot air balloon ride that it was a very comfortable ride.  We were then delayed three hours and the 'carriage host' couldn't say where we were, how far we were from Cairo or anything so we had GPS out on the iPhone trying to locate ourselves.  It was a very successful journey and one I would recommend to anyone and definitely do again!"

Daytime air-conditioned express trains...

They're not as time-effective as the overnight sleeper of course, but the daytime air-conditioned express trains are safe, comfortable and incredibly cheap - and best of all, the journey is an insight into Egyptian life.  It's a pleasant ride along the Nile Valley, past palm trees, feluccas, camels and fellahin working in the fields.  You will see how the Nile makes a small strip of land green either side of the river before the desert resumes.  The day trains have air-conditioned 1st & 2nd class seats, see the photos below.  You won't be sold a ticket at the ticket office for these trains, see the section about government tourist restrictions to understand why, but you can easily book tickets online in advance as shown here (recommended), or simply board any train without a ticket and pay the conductor, although you'll then need to find a spare seat.  See the traveller's report below about a journey on these daytime Nile Valley trains.

Luxor to Cairo by daytime train...  This is a morning 'Spanish' train to Cairo, boarding at Luxor station. Courtesy of Neil Bastock.		Air-conditioned 1st class of the 'Spanish' type used on the daytime Cairo to Luxor trains. Photo courtesy of Adrian Smith.

Travelling overnight in air-conditioned seats...

The night trains also have 1st & 2nd class seats (see the photos above) and one coach with Nefertiti class seats.  If you don't mind sleeping in a seat, which not a very nice or comfortable experience, these overnight trains save time compared with daytime trains but cost much less than the deluxe sleeper.  Cairo to Aswan costs LE 170 (£21 or $30) 1st class one-way.  Take a fleece or jumper as the air-con can be quite powerful.  The photos below show a Nefertiti class air-con 6-seat compartment on the overnight Cairo-Luxor-Aswan train. They are converted from a sleeping-car with the berths removed and two compartments knocked into one.  See the section about government tourist restrictions. 

Ordinary slow trains...

The 2nd & 3rd class non-air-con slow trains are fairly basic and only recommended for the more adventurous visitors, see the 'ordinary trains' pictures further up this page.  Government restrictions prevent tourists from being sold a ticket for these trains, although you could get on without a ticket and pay the conductor on board.

Traveller's reports...

Traveller Jerome Wise reports: "We took the daytime air-conditioned express train from Cairo to Luxor, which took 10 hours or so.  It was great fun, a bit of an adventure and a great way to see the real Egypt.  The children (8 and 6) even enjoyed it.  The great thing about the first class seats is that, whilst they are in an airline configuration, you can swivel them so you have facing and back - great for four people travelling together."

Traveller Ian Green took a Cairo to Luxor then Aswan to Cairo daytime trains in 2011:  "We bought our train tickets online at the Egyptian National Railways website having followed your instructions and signed up.  We caught train 980 from Cairo to Luxor in first class leaving at 8am (platform 8) on 30.09.11 costing 187.20 Egyptian pounds between us and the 983 train from Aswan to Cairo on the 07.10.11 first class, leaving at 7am, costing 226.72 Egyptian pounds between us.  The tea was lovely, service pretty good, seats comfy. Toilets passable. Both trains left on time, both were in the station half hour early, but both were about 3 hours delayed getting to the final stop. Take supplies!"

Luxor railway station.  Photos courtesy of Neil Bastock

Visiting the temples at Abydos & Dendera...

Traveller Krys Garnett reports:  "Visiting the temples of Abydos and Dendera from Luxor is easy by train, and much more convenient than the convoy or bus. For Abydos take any train headed to Cairo and get off at Qena, where the station master will arrange a taxi and inform the tourist police.  A policeman will accompany you in the taxi, but you won't get a convoy.  All trains except the Abela sleepers stop at Qena.  Visiting Abydos, take the train to El Balyana. Again, all trains except sleepers stop here, but it's a smaller, older station.  El Balyana is around 3 hours from Luxor, Qena between 1½ & 2 hours."

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Cairo to Port Said

Ord+ = Ordinary train, with 2nd class air-conditioned and 3rd class non-A/C.

Exp = Express train with air-conditioned 1st & 2nd class.

Fare:  LE 20 one-way 2nd class (£2 or $4).

Cairo ► Port Said
		Ord+	Exp	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Ord+
Cairo	depart	06:15	-	13:45	14:40	-	19:45
Alexandria	depart	|	04:30	|	|	15:30	|
Port Said	arrive	10:15	11:10	18:00	19:05	22:10	23:50

Port Said ► Cairo
		Ord+	Ord+	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Exp	Ord+
Port Said	depart	05:30	07:25	09:30	13:00	17:30	18:25	18:15
Alexandria	arrive	|	13:30	|	|	|	00:35	|
Cairo	arrive	09:45	-	13:35	17:10	21:35	-	00:50

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Cairo to Suez

Fare:  One-way 2nd class:  about LE 7, or less than UK £1.

Ord = Ordinary train, with non-air-con 2nd & 3rd class.

Ord+ = Ordinary train, with air-con 2nd class & non-air-con 3rd class.

Cairo ► Suez
		Ord	Ord+	Ord	Ord	Ord	Ord	Ord
Cairo (main station)	depart	-	05:10	-	-	-	-	-
Cairo (Ain Shams station)	depart	06:30	|	09:20	13:10	16:15	18:45	21:45
Suez	arrive	08:40	09:50	11:35	15:20	18:30	21:00	00:00
Suez ► Cairo

		Ord	Ord	Ord	Ord+	Ord	Ord	Ord
Suez	depart	06:00	10:10	13:10	15:25	15:50	19:00	21:25
Cairo (Ain Shams station)	arrive	08:15	12:15	15:25	|	18:05	21:10	23:35
Cairo (main station)	arrive	-	-	-	20:05	-	-	-

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Cairo / Alex to El Alamein & Mersa Matruh

Ord = Ordinary train, with 2nd & 3rd class seats, basic seating, not air-conditioned.

Note A = Express train with air-conditioned 1st & 2nd class seats, runs June-September only.  At other periods, travel via Alexandria.

Note B = Sleeper, www.sleepingtrains.com.  Runs 15 June-15 Sept on Monday, Wednesday, Saturday.

Note C = Sleeper, www.sleepingtrains.com.  Runs 15 June-15 Sept on Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday.

Cairo / Alex ► Mersa Matruh

Mersa Matruh ► Alex / Cairo

Ord

Note A

Ord

Note B

Ord

Note A

Ord

Note C

Cairo

depart

-

06:40

-

23:00

Mersa Matruh

depart

07:05

13:35

15:45

23:00

Alexandria

depart

06:40

|

13:30

|

El Alamein

depart

10:24

16:20

18:30

|

El Alamein

arrive

09:24

11:45

17:17

|

Alexandria

arrive

13:30

|

21:15

|

Mersa Matruh

arrive

12:05

14:15

20:20

06:00

Cairo

arrive

-

21:35

-

06:00

Fares: In the sleeper, Cairo to Mersa Matruh costs $43 per person sharing a 2-berth sleeper, $60 in a single-berth sleeper.  Day train fares not known.

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Abu Simbel

There are no trains to Abu Simbel, but a bus service operates from Aswan (275 km).  It departs Aswan at 07:00, arriving Abu Simbel at 10:00.  It leaves Abu Simbel at 13:00 arriving back in Aswan at 16:00.  There are also many tourist day tours, most leaving Aswan very early - for example, 04:00 - for about LE55 (£5 or $9).

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Sharm el Sheik, Hurghada, Siwa Oasis

Buses to Sharm el Sheik (Sinai)

There are no trains to Sharm el Sheik, but there are buses to and from Cairo, most run by the East Delta Bus Co, some by the Super Jet Bus Co. (neither company has a website, but try www.ask-aladdin.com for bus times).  Sharm el Sheik to Cairo (485 km) takes about 7 hours by bus, and there are about 6 or 7 buses daily including an overnight bus.  The fare is around LE68 (£8 or $12).  Sharm El Sheik is the far side of the Gulf of Suez from the Nile Valley, so for Luxor you either need to return to Cairo by bus, then travel by train from Cairo to Luxor, or you can cross by ferry (3 weekly) from Sharm el Sheik to Hurghada, spend the night there then continue to Luxor by bus.  There is a three-times-weekly fast ferry from Sharm el Sheik to Hurghada, plus a three-times-weekly slow ferry, although as at June 2011 these ferries have not been running for the past few months.

Update:  One bus company, MCV, has started online booking of their Cairo-Sharm el Sheik buses in conjunction with a specialist booking agency, see http://e7gezly.com/mcv/.

Buses to Hurghada

There are no trains to Hurghada but there are buses from both Cairo and Luxor, run by Super Jet or El Gouna bus companies (no website, but try www.ask-aladdin.com for bus times).  Hurghada to Cairo (500 km) takes about 7 hours by bus with 3-4 departures daily, fare around LE55 (£5/$10).  Hurghada to Luxor (255 km) takes 4 hours by bus, with 2 departures daily (around 06:00 and 12:00 from Luxor, 05:00 and 17:00 from Hurghada.  There is a three-times-weekly fast ferry from Hurghada to Sharm el Sheik, plus a three-times-weekly slow ferry.

Update:  One bus company, MCV, has started online booking of their Cairo-Hurghada buses in conjunction with a specialist booking agency, see http://e7gezly.com/mcv/.

Siwa Oasis

There are no trains to Siwa.  A daily bus links Siwa with Alexandria (590 km), departing Alex at 08:30, returning from Siwa at 08:00.  It's reported that there's now a daily overnight bus from the Turgoman garage in Cairo at 18:45 to Siwa, arriving around 05:45 next morning.  The fare is around LE 60.  It's run by the West Delta Bus co.

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International buses & ferries from Egypt

There are no international trains from Egypt, but buses will get you to Libya, there's a ferry to Jordan and a Nile steamer from Aswan to Sudan.  There are now NO Mediterranean ferries to Egypt, from anywhere in Europe, at all.

Cairo - Amman (Jordan) - Damascus (Syria) - Istanbul (Turkey)...

There is a direct bus from Cairo to Amman four times a week, fare around £70 or $100, run by JETT of Jordan (www.jett.com.jo) and taking 20 hours, exact times & days of running northbound not known - note that this crosses Israel, and you may be refused entry to Syria later on if you have any sign of a visit to Israel in your passport.  To buy northbound tickets or ask about the schedule northbound, email their Egyptian agents, superjet@post.com tel. 00 202 2290 9013.

Alternatively, if you want to avoid Israel, use a bus & ferry route:

• Take a bus from Cairo to Nuweiba on the Red Sea.  A bus leaves Cairo main bus station at around 08:00, taking about 6 hours to reach Nuweiba.  It's run by the Shark el Delta Bus Co.

• Take the daily fast catamaran (departing 17:00, crossing 1 hour) or the daily conventional ferry (departing 17:00 and/or 22:00, crossing 3-4 hours) from Nuweiba to Aqaba in southern Jordan, see www.abmaritime.com.jo.  The fare by regular ferry is US$65 economy class, $70 first class.  By fast ferry it's $75 economy class, $95 1st class.  .  You must check in at least 2 hours before departure, and pay your fare in US$ cash.  There may also be an Egyptian exit tax to pay, about $10.

• You will probably need to spend the night in Aqaba.  There are regular buses and service taxis from Aqaba to Petra and Amman, costing around 3 or 4 JD, see the Jordan page. 

• For buses from Amman to Damascus in Syria, see the Jordan page. 

• For trains from Damascus to Aleppo & from Aleppo to Istanbul, see the Syria page.  Check current travel advice for Syria - you may be advised against all travel to or through Syria at the moment.

• Details of the southbound journey from Amman to Cairo are shown on the Jordan page.

The fast ferry from Nuweiba in Egypt to Aqaba in Jordan. Photo courtesy of Elliot Bannister

Cairo - Tripoli (Libya) - Tunis (Tunisia) - Morocco...

IF you have a Libyan visa, there are buses from Egypt into Libya.  However, at present the Libyan government will not grant visas for independent travel to Libya, only for people on tours organised by a recognised Libyan travel agency.  There are buses from Libya into Tunisia, but it's not possible to travel on to Morocco overland, as the Algerian/Moroccan border is closed and Algeria has security problems which make it a no-go zone for westerners.

Cairo - Aswan - Wadi Halfa - Khartoum (Sudan):  See the Sudan page...

A weekly Nile steamer links Aswan with Wadi Halfa in the Sudan, from where a twice-monthly train runs (or at least, used to run,) to Khartoum, see the Sudan page for details.

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UK to Egypt without flying

Option 1:  London to Egypt by train & ferry.

Until 1995, Adriatica Line's Espresso Egitto used to sail weekly from Venice and Piraeus to Alexandria.  Michael Palin used it in 1989 and I used it in 1990 - Michael gets everywhere a year or two before I do, and he doesn't have to pay for his own ticket.  Sadly, the terrorist problems in Egypt ended this service.  Until 2001, Salamis Lines sailed weekly from Greece to Egypt via Cyprus, but their services were suspended because of the problems in Israel, the ship's ultimate destination.  Then a new weekly ferry service started in May 2010 linking Venice in Italy with Alexandria in Egypt, www.visemarline.com.  However, sorry as I am to be proved right, this service didn't last more than a year - it ran in a circle via Syria, and fell victim both to the problems in Egypt reducing tourist numbers and the current problems in Syria.  It was cancelled in May 2011.  But yet another ferry has started up, the only ferry across the Med to Egypt, running twice a week from Iskenderun in southern Turkey to Port Said in Egypt, www.sisashipping.com.

• Step 1, travel from London to Istanbul by train (3 nights), see the London to Turkey page.

• Step 2, travel from Istanbul to Adana by train then by bus to Iskenderun, see the train travel in Turkey page for the Istanbul-Adana part, and ask about buses to Iskenderun locally.

• Step 3, sail from Iskenderun in southern Turkey to Port Said in Egypt by twice-weekly ferry, www.sisashipping.com.  Their site is in Turkish, use Google Chrome to translate or contact their UK office on +44 20 7241 0551.  I'm still trying to get hold of the schedule and prices.  Feedback & any photos would be appreciated!

The Sisa Shipping ferry to Egypt.  Photos courtesy of Mick Sasse

Traveller Mick Sasse reports (2013):  "To book the ferry, I needed quite a lot of correspondence, most productively with Aslihan Ozsen of Sisa Shipping, aslihan.ozsen@sisashipping.com, tel +90 216 338 27 28, fax +90 216 338 26 58. Address: Degirmen Sok. No:18 Kat:18 Nida Kule Is Merkezi Kozyatagi - Kadikoy / Istanbul. This confirmed when the ferry was actually running as the dates on the website can't be relied on.  I wasn't actually able to book it in advance, but he assured me that I would definitely have a place, as I was scared it would get booked up.  The ticket itself I collected (and paid for) at the agent's office, Remon Travel, at Mareşal Çakmak street No:16, İskenderun (town centre). 

Only on arrival at my wifi-equipped hotel in Iskenderum did I learn that the ferry that should have left on 2nd January, the next day, would now run a day later.  I understand that this is pretty normal!  So I spent the day in Iskenderun.  I booked the ferry at Remon Travel at a total of YTL 320 with a 'Pullman seat' - this was more than I'd expected to pay (it includes an agent's commission), I'd in fact wanted to book a cabin berth; however, contrary to what they told me in an e-mail, you can only book a whole cabin, i.e. sharing is not an option.  Next day I reported as instructed to Remon Travel for 10:00, and shortly afterwards a minibus took myself and about a dozen other foot passengers to Limak port north of Iskenderun town. And then we waited... and waited... and waited...  All was rather chaotic as there is no ferry terminal as such, the minibus driver didn't even know where to go.  There are no facilities on the port either, other than some toilets and a shelter.  Eventually our passports were taken, then returned to us at about 14:00.  At 15:00 we finally boarded the Insos Rodos of Hellenic Seaways, flagged out of Piraeus.  The ferry finally sailed at around 01:00 this morning - instead of 12:00 on 2nd January - and arrived at Port Said at 23:45.  An Egyptian visa could be purchased on board for USD 15 cash only - I believe Euros also acceptable - this was straightforward and unbureaucratic. Indeed they did it while they had my passport - good thing I had USD 15 left!  We disembarked 01:30 on 5 January - given the hour, I inevitably was charged over the odds for a taxi (€10) into the city centre. Bear in mind that the ferry docks at the city port - not the port used by freighters, which is further away. Theoretically you could walk it, but it would be potentially dangerous given the chaos of lorry movements and so on around the port.

The ferry itself: As you'd guess, it's been drafted over from hopping the Greek islands, and has the facilities you'd expect, including restaurants, bar, disco/club, duty-free shop, but all closed out of use! I suppose that's not altogether surprising given the nature of the clientèle. I would say that at least 95% (possibly more) of the custom of the ferry comes from a mix of lorry drivers, mostly Turkish, delivering freight to Egypt, which obviously can't go via Syria these days, and, I'm afraid, Syrian refugees fleeing the horror that is unfolding in that country. The food on the ferry is included (including during the time you're not moving), and you won't actually starve, it is very basic - typically a bread roll, some sort of stewy thing, water and a piece of fresh fruit. No choice really.

In terms of accommodation, obviously given that there were quite a lot of families with young children and babies on board, the 'Pullman seat' option isn't really to be recommended - I thought I'd got lucky by sneaking into the closed-down disco area and grabbing a sofa, but just as I was dropping off to sleep I was ushered out to the common area. In a weak position, I paid out USD 145 at that point for a cabin. Bear in mind that it's cash only on the ferry! The cabin was a twin (for single use, of course) with en suite, and was quite comfortable with fresh laundry etc., though it looked as if it could do with a deep clean! (Well, not by Egyptian standards, obviously...) Strangely the fittings were largely labelled in what I think was Korean - perhaps a Hyundai product!"

Option 2:  London to Egypt overland via Paris, Vienna, Istanbul, Syria & Jordan...

Obviously, the situation in Syria has now scotched this route, as all travel to Syria is currently inadvisable.  But for when things sort themselves out in Syria as I sincerely hope they will soon, here are the details:

You can travel overland from the UK to Egypt via Istanbul, Syria and Jordan.  This can be done mostly by train, with the odd bus and short ferry ride, in about 9 nights in total, including hotel nights in Istanbul, Adana, Aleppo, Damascus & Amman.  However, this option is more of an adventure with many separate stages, rather than as a simple A to B means of transport.  You may be inspired by a blog written about travel from the UK to Egypt this way, www.unplaned.com.  Here are the stages, with links to the relevant seat61 page where each stage is explained:

• See the London to Turkey page for details of train travel London-Istanbul.  The journey takes 3 nights, and departures are daily.

• Then see the Syria & Jordan pages for info on the train journey from Istanbul to Damascus and on to Amman.  Expect this stage to take around 3 nights, depending on where and for how long you want to stop off.

• From Amman, a long-distance bus leaves every Saturday, Sunday, Tuesday & Thursday at 14:00 from the Abdali bus station, taking some 20 hours to reach Cairo.  It is run by Jordan Express Tourist Transportation (JETT), see www.jett.com.jo, telephone +962 6 5664146.  The fare is 75.5 JD, about £69 or $102.  For northbound buses from Cairo back to Amman, contact superjet@post.com, timetable not known.  Note that this bus passes through Israel, so when travelling back north there will be problems re-entering Syria with evidence of a visit to Israel in your passport.

• A better option, avoiding Israel is to take a bus or taxi from Amman or Petra to Aqaba for the ferry to Nuweiba in Egypt, for buses to Cairo.  See the section above for more information on how to do this part of the journey.

To make a journey like this, you'll probably want to book the London-Istanbul part in advance (see the Turkey page), and arrange visas for Syria, Jordan & Egypt before you leave, but buy tickets for the parts of the journey beyond Istanbul as you go along, with no pre-booking necessary (or in some cases, possible).  In planning a trip like this, you may find this technique helpful. 

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Guidebooks

Paying for a guidebook may seem an unnecessary expense, but it's a tiny fraction of what you're spending on your whole trip.  You will see so much more, and know so much more about what you're looking at, if you have a decent guidebook.  For independent travel, easily the best guidebook is either the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide.  Both books provide an excellent level of practical information and historical and cultural background.  You won't regret buying either of them..!

Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk

Alternatively, you can download just the chapters or areas you need in .PDF format from the Lonely Planet Website, from around £2.99 or US$4.95 a chapter.

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Hotels & accommodation in Cairo, Luxor & Egypt

◄◄◄◄ Search all the main hotel booking sites at once... I'm a big fan of www.hotelscombined.com as it checks all the main hotel booking sites (Opodo, Expedia, Booking.com, Hotels.com, AsiaRooms, LateRooms etc.) to find the widest choice of hotels & the cheapest rates.  Try it and see!

Hotel recommendations:

• In Cairo, try the Windsor Hotel for old-world charm and character.  I have yet to stay there myself, but it's been recommended to me, so take a look.

• In Luxor, easily the most classic place to stay if your budget will stretch is the famous and fabulous Old Winter Palace Hotel, from $109 or £55 a night.  At least have a drink in the bar!

• In Alexandria, the most famous & historic hotel is the Cecil Hotel (from about $153 or £100 a room), now part of the Sofitel chain, though the Metropole Hotel across the square is a cheaper but still a classic choice for faded grandeur, from $80 or £55 a night.  Both are in a great location.

Backpacker hostels...

• www.hostelbookers.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelbookers offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & health card...

Get travel insurance, it's essential...

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash (up to a limit) and belongings.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year (I have an annual policy myself).  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

In the UK, try Columbus Direct or use Confused.com to compare prices & policies from many different insurers.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65 (no age limit), see www.JustTravelCover.com.

        If you're resident in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct's other websites.

    If you're resident in the USA or Canada, try Travel Guard USA.

Get a spare credit card, designed for foreign travel with no currency exchange loading & low or no ATM fees...

It costs nothing to take out an extra credit card.  If you keep it in a different part of your luggage so you're not left stranded if your wallet gets stolen, this is a form of extra travel insurance in itself.  In addition, some credit cards are significantly better for overseas travel than others.  Martin Lewis's www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-travel-money explains which UK credit cards have the lowest currency exchange commission loadings when you buy something overseas, and the lowest cash withdrawal fees when you use an ATM abroad.  Taking this advice can save you quite a lot on each trip compared to using your normal high-street bank credit card!

You can avoid ATM charges and expensive exchange rates with a Caxton FX euro currency Visa Card, or their multi-currency 'Global Traveller' Visa Card, see www.caxtonfx.com for info.

Get an international SIM card...

Mobile phones can cost a fortune to use abroad, and if you're not careful you can return home to find some huge bills waiting for you.  I've known people run up a £1,000 bill in data charges just by leaving their iPhone connected during a simple trip to Europe.  However, if you buy a global SIM card for your mobile phone from a company such as www.Go-Sim.com you can slash the cost by up to 85% and limit any damage to the amount you have pre-paid.  It cuts call costs in 175 countries worldwide, and you can receive incoming calls and texts for free in 75 countries.  It's pay-as-you-go, so no nasty bills when you get home.  It also works for laptop or PDA data access.  A Go-Sim account and any credit on it doesn't expire if it's not between trips, unlike some others, so a Go-Sim phone number becomes your 'global phone number' for life.

 

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