Central & South America . . .

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There are no regular passenger services from the UK or Europe to Central or South America.  If you have the time and money, it's possible to cross the Atlantic from Southampton to New York with Cunard, catch an Amtrak train from New York to New Orleans then somewhere like El Paso, followed by buses down through Mexico.  See the United States page for more information.  Alternatively, some freight ships have a limited number of passenger places, and there may be the occasional cruise.  For these, the best place to start your research is:

• www.geocities.com/freighterman.geo.

• www.freighterworld.com.

• www.freighter-cruises.com.

• UK agencies booking travel on cargo ships:  www.strandtravel.co.uk, CruiseAZ , www.cruisepeople.co.uk.

International train travel around South America

Unlike Europe or even parts of Asia and Africa, Central and South America simply does not have a developed international rail network.  International train services are almost non-existent, and most journeys must generally be made by long-distance bus or plane.

Train travel in Argentina

There are InterCity services on quite a number of routes, run by various different operators.  Trains in Argentina are experiencing something of a revival, since the government intends to re-establish long-distance passenger trains between all major cities.  For information, see www.sateliteferroviario.com.ar/horarios/ (in Spanish only), which has info on all Argentinean train services.  One of the largest operators is Ferrobaires, www.ferrobaires.gba.gov.ar.

Traveller's report:  Travelling on Argentinean trains...

Traveller Ian Hunter reports:  " In October 2006 I made several long train journeys in Argentina and Chile. Argentinean trains are a superb way to get to know the country and its people.  It's not the third world but don't expect European standards of comfort, but something in between.

• Buenos Aires - Bahia Blanca - Carmen de Patagones:  The train leaves B.A. at quite respectable speeds but becomes progressively slower as the track deteriorates!  Most of Argentina is very sparsely populated and there is an amazing  sense of space and distance, of travelling to places uncontaminated by mass tourism.  The different classes of car have similar seats of acceptable quality though often a bit shabby.  Plenty of legroom and better than buses, but if you ride in the non air-conditioned cars the main problem is dust.  South of Bahia Blanca the track is very rough. There is a reliable supply of coffee, beer and sandwiches for most of the journey.  (Note:  It was reported in September 2007 as no longer operating between Bahia Blanca and Carmen de Patagones, but traveller Stephen Hugget reports that service may have resumed - if you have any more info please email me.

• Carmen de Patagones - Viedma - C. de Bariloche:  Viedma is across the river by small ferry from Carmen de Patagones, but no same day connection is possible so you need a night in a hotel.  The 'tren patagonico' from Viedma to C. de Bariloche is tremendous fun and thoroughly recommended! Comfy secure sleeping cars (solo travellers are given a compartment to themselves and a key to lock it), excellent dining car serves steaks and wine, good company and wonderful Patagonian scenery in the morning.  Excellent value, and you can buy the tickets in advance in Buenos Aires at Gallerias Rio Negro on Reconquista.

• Onwards to Chile:  It is easy to travel by day from Bariloche by bus to Osorno or Puerto Montt in Southern Chile. Passenger trains only operate south of Santiago but the quality,  frequency, and speed of Chilean passenger trains is very good. Comparable with Western Europe, in fact most of the rolling stock is imported from Spain, clean, modern, well  maintained......and probably the only really good track in South America! At the time of my visit services were suspended between Victoria and Temuco due to storm damage but there were plentiful buses covering this section in a couple of hours.

• Buenos Aires - Cordoba:  I returned from Cordoba to B.A. by train on a route over which passenger service has recently been restored. The usual awful Argentine track, but another nice train with good service, sleeping and dining cars, quite acceptable seating cars and friendly crew and passengers.

"As in North America, people travel on the long distance trains in Argentina because they like travelling by train and dislike buses or flying. This creates a very convivial atmosphere in which the journey becomes a worthwhile experience for its own sake.  It means the trains are busy so buy your ticket a day or two in advance if possible, especially if you want a sleeping car berth. The trains  are cheaper than buses, so popular with students and young people. After years of decline, decay and neglect there is a political initiative to restore long distance trains, but progress is slow in rehabilitating track and rolling stock. There are reports that the 'Trans-Andino' line between Mendoza and Santiago de Chile will be operating again by 2010. I f this happens I would love to return to travel on it.  The experience of train travel is unique in each country, and somehow manages to capture so much of a nation's character, but buses and planes are the same everywhere!"

Traveller Stephen Hugget reports from 2008:  I travelled on the Viedma to Bariloche train 'tren patagonico'  in January on a ticket I bought locally, which involved a great deal of pot luck... There is no mechanism for online ticket purchase and any emails to the website result in asking for payment for reservations by Western Union. I resisted the temptation to part with £25 plus an additional £12 for the pleasure of transferring the money and was rewarded by an outstanding 18 hours in economy for £4.  The experience was no worse that getting a train into Cannon Street in the rush hour, it just lasted longer!  However, your webpage suggests that the above Camen de Patagones to Bahia Blanca line is closed.  The tourist office in Viedma where I managed to get my ticket in January 2008 insists you can still get from Buenos Aires to Carmen by train along the line via Bahia Blanca....  although I didn't ultimately use the line the lady in the shop was adamant that it is open.

 

Trains travel in Bolivia

Above:  The WaraWara slow train from Tupiza to Oruro.  Photo courtesy of 's'

There are a few train services in Bolivia, operated by two train companies, eastern (www.ferroviariaoriental.com) and western (www.fca.com.bo).  The western network is more tourist-orientated, with trains from Oruro to Tupiza.  There are two types of train, the expresso and WaraWara (the slower train makes more stops).  There are 3 or 4 classes, 'ejecutivo' being the best.  It can get very cold in the train, with trips in both directions mainly made at night.  There is also a working branch line to Calama in Chile but this only runs rarely perhaps once a week.  The main line form Oruro to Tupiza runs almost daily. 

In the east of Bolivia, the rail hub is Santa Cruz, and trains go east to the Brazilian border and South to the Argentine border.  There is a train every day from Santa Cruz east to Puerto Suarez.  However, there are a mix of services.  There is a normal train that locals take and takes the longest. There is an express train. And there is an expensive and fast ferrobus which is a modern railcar, fare about 150 bolivianos per person. Different services go on different days but every day there is some service eastbound.  Tickets can only be bought the day of departure at the train ticket counter (train and bus stations are together), which opens at 08:00 but the queue starts to form earlier.  The service south to Villamontes has similar service and a complicated schedule and goes almost every day.  The train is comfortable and for the eastbound journey pretty much the only way to go overland.  There is no website or anything else pretty much you just find things out when you arrive in Santa Cruz.

Train travel in Brazil

Intercity services operate on one route, from Vitoria to Belo Horizonte.  This train is cheaper and more comfortable than a bus.  It leaves daily at 07:30 from each terminus and arrives at its destination around 19:30-20:00.  Fares are also cheaper compared to buses.  The train has three classes,  "Executivo" is the best with AC and aircraft-style seating with a decent amount of legroom.  There's a restaurant car, although the food does not get good reports.  Operated by the most prosperous freight railway in Brazil, the journey is very scenic and it's a pleasant way to spend a day.  The train information part of their website is www.vale.com/vale_us/cgi/cgilua.exe/sys/start.htm?infoid=152&sid=66  (the English version appears to omit the train info, so stick with Portuguese and remember that 'preços' is prices and 'horarios' means 'timetables').

Cafe & seating on the Vitoria-Belo Horizonte (Minas) train Photos courtesy of Jorge Degrazia Sarturi

The other operating train is a steam tourist oriented train but it offers transport in between two important Brazilian tourist towns, Sao Jao del Rei and Tiradentes.  The steam train makes a nice alternative to the bus. The trip takes an hour and is about 20km. It runs daily leaving Sao Jao del Rei at 10:00 and returning in the afternoon. The train ticket gives free entry to the train museum at the station in Sao Jao del Rei.  Internet info:  www.antt.gov.br/destaques/anexos/TremDelreiTiradentes.htm.

There is now no train service at all between Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo.  There's a list of all Brazilian train services (regular and tourist-orientated) at www.antt.gov.br/destaques/TrensDePassageiros.asp.

Train travel in Chile:

Chile has some good InterCity services, with sleeping-cars and restaurant cars.  The Chilean state railways official website (in Spanish only) is www.efe.cl.  For train times, fares and routes in English, see the excellent unofficial site, www.geocities.com/flairck.geo/efe/ (though not working as at August 2006).

Train travel in Mexico

Mexico used to have a good train service linking all major cities, using restaurant cars, sleeping-cars and observation cars, many inherited from the USA.  Sadly, the Mexican government discontinued almost all long-distance passenger train service just a few years ago, and buses and planes are now the only way to get around Mexico.  A couple of very minor service exist in certain areas, including the famous 'Copper Canyon' service from Los Mochis to Chiuaha.  For a summary of remaining Mexican train services see www.mexlist.com/pass.htm.  For information on the Copper Canyon train service see www.chepe.com.mx/ingles/index.html.

Train travel in Panama:

The Panama Canal Railway provides one daily train between Ciudad Panama and Colon on Mondays-Fridays.  It leaves Ciudad de Panama at 07:15 on Mondays-Fridays only, arriving Colon at 08:15.  It leaves Colon Mondays-Fridays only at 17:15 arriving back in Panama City at 18:15.  It has air-conditioned Executive class coaches with refreshments available.  The new station for Panama City is in the northern suburb of Allbrook, not far from the domestic airport - the old station in Panama City is now a MacDonald's..!  The distance is 77 km (48 miles).  See www.panarail.com for info.

Train travel in Paraguay

There are no passenger trains in Paraguay, other than a tourist steam train on Sundays from Ascencioun botanical gardens station.

Train travel in Peru (including train to Machu Picchu):

Peru has several train services of interest to visitors, including Cuzco to Puno and the famous train from Cuzco to Machu Picchu.  For times and fares on this southern network including Machu Picchu, see www.perurail.com.  A few services now operate on the northern network linking Lima with Huancayo - see www.ferroviasperu.com.pe or www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe.

Above:  The tourist train approaches Machu Picchu.  Photo courtesy of 's'.		Above:  The PeruRail Puno-Cuzco train stops for a photo stop at the highest point.  Photo courtesy of 's'

Train travel in Uruguay

There are few operational trains in Uruguay, and a suburban service has restarted in Montevideo.

About this page...

This page is still being developed.  If you have any information, photos, web links, that would be relevant to travellers (not railway enthusiasts, but regular travellers) in South America, please e-mail me.

The Thomas Cook Overseas timetable is probably the most adventurous timetable ever produced... It has train, bus and ferry time for all of Central and South America, plus North America, Australia, New Zealand, Asia and Africa.  It is published every two months.  No serious overland traveller should be without it..!

It costs £13.50 from the bureau de change in any branch of Thomas Cook, or uy the latest edition online at www.thomascooktimetables.com.  It can be ordered by phone on 01733 416477 (+44 1733 416477 from outside the UK).

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To get the most out of your trip to South America, you'll need a decent guidebook.  For the serious independent traveller this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide.  Both guides have everything you need - plenty of background historical and cultural information, plus practical information.

Buy Rough Guide to South America online at Amazon.co.uk

Get an online quote from both Direct Line & Columbus Direct...

Travel insurance is a boring subject, but it's a real necessity, so make sure you budget for it.  Make sure the cover is adequate - for example, at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover, from a reliable insurer.  Remember that an annual multi-trip policy is often cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just two or three trips a year.  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy after clicking these links.

  If you're a UK resident, try Direct Line whom I've used myself on many occasions, or Columbus Direct.

      If you're resident in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct Australia.

  If you're resident in the USA or Canada, try Travel Guard USA.

Page last updated 1 May 2008