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A beginner's guide to...

Train travel in Cuba . . .

How to travel by train in Cuba, much better than a bus!

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 Country information

Train operator in Cuba:

Ferrocarriles de Cuba.  No official website.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time zone & dialling code:

GMT-5 hours (GMT-4 hours first Sunday in April to last Sunday in October).  Dial code +53.

Currency:

Foreigners generally used to pay in US dollars, but in 2004 the Cuban government announced that US dollars would no longer be accepted.  Instead, dollars, pounds or euro can be converted into 'convertible pesos' where 1 convertible peso is US$1.  A 10% tax applies to conversion of US dollars into convertible pesos (plus the bank's fee), so assume in practice that $1=0.87 CUC.  The 10% charge does not apply to conversion of euro or pounds into pesos.  Cuban citizens use 'ordinary' pesos.

Tourist information:

 

www.travel2cuba.co.uk      Recommended guidebooks

Flights:

 

Flights to Havana

Hotels:

 

Recommended classic hotels in Havana & Cuba

Visas:

UK citizens need a 'tourist card' to visit Cuba.  You can get a tourist card direct from tour agencies and airlines serving Cuba, or you can buy one at Havana's José Martí airport.

Page last updated:

17 January 2012


 Travelling by train in Cuba

Cuba is a fantastic country. Cubans are very hospitable people and Havana has to be one of the most vibrant cities in the world.  It's a safe place to visit, too, unless of course you fall down one of the many potholes in the street...  Cuba's rail network runs the length of the island, linking the main cities and towns.  Cuban trains are an interesting way to get around, especially if you want to travel with Cubans the way Cubans do, and not in a tourist bus.  Don't expect western standards on the trains, take your own toilet paper, and allow for the odd breakdown - think of it as all part of the Cuba experience!  In particular, the new 'Tren Francès' from Havana to Santiago is a safe, comfortable and (contrary to popular opinion) now reasonably reliable way to make the trip from one end of Cuba to the other, much better than taking a cramped long-distance Viazul bus or worse, a flight...

On this page:   Train times for Cuba    Train fares    What are Cuban trains like?     How to buy train tickets

Estacion Central, Havana, Cuba   Train travel in Cuba:  A train from Santiago de Cuba arrives in Havana
Havana's Estacion Central...   A train from Santiago, just arrived at Havana Estacion Central...

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 Train times & fares

Here is the timetable for the main line linking Havana, Santa Clara, Camagüey & Santiago de Cuba, and the branch lines to Sancti Spiritus, Holguin, Cienfuegos, Moron, Bayamo & Guantanamo.  Information on Cuban train services is difficult to confirm, this information was up to date in October 2010 and has been reported as largely unchanged in March 2011.  However, treat it as a guide and check exact times locally.  The shortage of fuel in Cuba can sometimes affect buses and local trains, but these mainline trains have priority.  Fares for foreigners are also shown below.

 Havana ► Santa Clara ► Camagüey ► Santiago de Cuba   

Train number:

1 *

3 5 7 9 11 29
See note below for days of running: A B C C D E F
Havana (Estación Central) 18:20

16:30

20:30

18:45

21:40

- 17:40
Havana (La Coubre) |

|

|

|

|

- |
Matanzas |

19:00

23:01

21:24 00:24 - 19:47
Santa Clara 00:26 22:48 03:30 02:22 05:40 07:50 21:08
Cienfuegos **

|

|

|

|

|

|

|

Sancti Spiritus

|

|

|

|

08:50

|

|

Ciego de Avila |

01:19

06:59

05:47   11:32 00:12
Moron | | | |  

|

01:55

Camagüey 04:42 03:54 09:41 08:35   14:27  
Bayamo

|

|

 | 13:40  

 

Cacocúm | 07:19  13:59     19:17   
Holguin | |  |    

 |

 

Guantanamo | 11:30  |    

 |

 

Santiago de Cuba 09:50   17:15      22:35  

* = recommended train, see note A below.   ** = It's reported in October 2010 that there are currently no trains running to Cienfuegos.

All trains, even overnight ones, only have seats.  There are no couchettes or sleeping-cars in Cuba.

Note A:  'Tren Francés' (the French Train).  Since 2009 it's been running every third day, but you'll have to check which days it runs locally, by asking at the information office or looking for posters at the station in Havana.  This is the recommended train to take, air-conditioned and contrary to what some guidebooks say, reasonably reliable.  It is a fast service using comfortable air-conditioned stainless steel coaches with reclining seats bought second-hand from France.  It offers two classes of seating, basic leatherette 'Primera' and quite luxurious (albeit grubby) 'Primera Especial'.  See the information & photos below.

Note B:  Runs every third day, on a day when the Tren Francés isn't running.  So together trains 1/2 & 5/6 provide a Havana-Santiago service on 2 out of every 3 days.  However, train 5 & 6 has much more basic passenger cars than the Tren Francés.  Primera class seats only.

Note C: Runs every third day.  Primera class seats only.  Ask at the station to find which days it runs.

Note D:  Runs every second day.  Primera class seats only.  Ask at the station to find which days it runs.

Note E:  Not sure when this runs - probably every 2-3 days.  Primera class seats only.

Note F:  Daily.  Fast air-conditioned railcar, either Canadian (see the pictures below) or Spanish.
Latest situation 2012...

Cuban train services have changed quite a lot over the last few years, reflecting ever greater difficulties in keeping locomotives going and finding fuel.  These timetables reflect the last concrete information from Autumn 2010, with most long-distance trains now only running every 2 or 3 days.  Train times have been reported as largely unchanged in April 2011 and are believed to be similar in 2012.  If you have any more information that might help other travellers, please email me.

 Santiago de Cuba ► Camagüey ► Santa Clara ► Havana   

Train number: 2 * 4 6 8 10 12 30
See note above for days of running: A C B C D E R
Santiago de Cuba 21:00   08:50     06:00  
Guantanamo

|

11:40

|

   

|

 

Holguin | | |

 

 

 |

 

Cacocúm

|

16:14 12:04

 

 

 09:32  
Bayamo

|

|

|

23:15

 

 |

 

Camagüey 02:25

20:00

16:34

04:25

 

14:35  
Moron

|

|

|

|

 

|

23:50

Ciego de Avila | 21:54 19:01

06:56

 

17:19 ??:??
Sancti Spiritus

|

|

|

|

16:40

|

|

Cienfuegos ** |

|

|

|

|

|

|

Santa Clara 06:38

00:35

22:37 10:38 20:17? 20:55 ??:??
Matanzas |

04:09

02:48 14:46

01:27

-

|

Havana L Coubre

|

|

|

|

|

- |
Havana Estación Central

12:15

06:30

05:15

17:20

04:05

- 08:00?

 Havana ► Pinar del Rio

            

 

 Pinar del Rio ► Havana

(Train number:)

225

(Train number:)

224

(Notes)

F

(Notes)

F

Havana 22:35 Pinar del Rio 08:45
Pinar del Rio 04:20 Havana 14:30

Note F: Runs every second day only.  Please check times locally, they may have changed.

Fares...

Foreigners pay higher fares than Cubans.  Foreigners used to have to pay in US dollars, but since November 2004 US dollars are no longer accepted in Cuba and foreigners pay train fares in 'convertible pesos'.  1 convertible peso = around US$1.20

 One-way fares for foreigners

 Havana - Santiago de Cuba: 62 convertible pesos in 'primera especial', train 3 or 4  (Tren Francès)
  50 convertible pesos in 'especial', train 3 or 4  (Tren Francès)
  30 convertible pesos in 'primera' class, train 7 or 8
 Havana - Sancti Spiritus 14 convertible pesos in 'primera'
 Havana - Moron 24 convertible pesos in 'primera'
 Havana - Pinar del Rio   7 convertible pesos in 'primera'
 Havana - Bayamo / Manzanillo 26 convertible pesos in 'primera'
 Havana - Guantanamo 32 convertible pesos in 'primera'

Havana (Casablanca station) - Hershey - Matanzas (the famous Hershey Railway)

An electric railcar runs on a railway originally built by the Hershey Corporation (the chocolate company) from Havana (Casablanca station, across the harbour from Havana itself) to Hershey and Matanzas.  To reach Havana Casablanca station, take the ferry across the harbour from the foot of Santa Clara Street in Havana old town.  Once on the other side, Casablanca station is immediately west of the ferry dock,  looking more like a tram stop than a conventional station, so just follow the overhead electric wires along the street.  In Matanzas, the Hershey railway station is about 2km from Matanzas mainline station.  Foreigners pay in convertible pesos, Havana to Hershey is about 1.50 pesos, Havana to Matanzas about 2.80 pesos (1 convertible peso = $1.20). Tickets go on sale 1 hour before departure. The timetable changes every so often, so always double-check train times locally.  See the Hershey Railways photos below...

 Havana ► Hershey ► Matanzas

  

 Matanzas ► Hershey ► Havana

Havana Casablanca  06:11 12:27 17:51 Matanzas (Hershey station) 05:16 11:30 16:54
Hershey 07:46 14:00 19:18 Hershey 07:46 14:00 19:28
Matanzas (Hershey station) 10:10 16:24 21:52 Havana Casa.  09:17 15:27 20:55

 What are Cuban trains like?

The 'Tren Francés' Havana-Santiago (trains 3 & 4)

Fast trains 3 & 4 (renumbered from 1 & 2 in 2007, for some reason) between Havana and Santiago now use comfortable stainless-steel air-conditioned coaches bought second-hand from French Railways and now known as the 'Tren Francés'.  These coaches were originally used on the premier 'Trans-Europe Express' (TEE)service between Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam before being replaced with high speed 'Thalys' trains.  They were shipped to Cuba in 2001.

There are no sleeping-cars or couchettes, just seats in two classes - 'primera' (first class) and 'primera especial' (special first class).  'Primera' is the old European 2nd class, with vinyl padded seats 2-abreast on each side of the aisle.  'Primera especial' is the old European first class, with much more space and fabric seats arranged 2-abreast on one side of the aisle, one-abreast on the other side, as shown in the photo below.

The train is getting a little worn and grubby, but the seats are comfortable, there is powerful air-conditioning, a café, and even piped music.  A hostess looks after each coach.  Bring your own toilet paper!  This train is normally fairly reliable, with up to three locomotives hauling it - in fact, if the 'Tren Francés' runs more than an hour late, Ferrocarriles de Cuba will refund your fare.

To quote one traveller, "The journey from Havana to Santa Clara was very comfortable and there were only 7 foreigners on a train full of friendly Cubans - a marked contrast to the rather grumpy 'tourist only' bus network."

Update 2011:  It seems they took the ex-TEE coaches out of service a while ago, running the Tren Frances with their next-best rolling stock, but reportedly the stainless steel ex-TEE cars are now about to go back into service.

A carriage of the 'French Train' from Havana to Santiago de Cuba   Primera especial seats on the 'French train' from Havana to Santiago de Cuba   Boarding the 'French train' from Santiago to Havana...

Above:  The 'French train' from Havana to Santiago.  These classy stainless-steel cars once ran between Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam!  Photo courtesy of Peter Jackson...

 

Above:  Primera especial on the French train

Above right:  The hostess checks tickets before boarding the 'primera especial' of the Tren Frances from Santiago to Havana.  Photos courtesy of Peter Jackson...

Air-conditioned railcars 

Some services (shown in the timetable above as 'Note R') are provided by railcars, either ex-Spanish Railways or stainless steel Budd railcars bought second-hand from VIA Rail Canada (shown below).  The latter are comfortable, carpeted, air-conditioned single-coach railcars with reclining seats, hostess service and refreshments.

Budd air-conditioned railcar   Comfortable seating in the railcar

Other trains

Other trains, such as trains 7 & 8 between Havana and Santiago overnight, consist of older cars, in many cases bought second-hand from Germany, Mexico or Japan.  In spite of travelling overnight, there are no sleeping-cars or sleeping accommodation of any kind - the trains just have reclining leatherette seats.  These trains are an experience - don't expect them to be the cleanest or best maintained trains you will see!

Seats on an ordinary overnight Havana-Santiago train    The ordinary overnight train from Santiago approaches Havana

The Hershey Railway: Havana - Hershey - Matanzas

Hershey train at Havana Casablanca station, Cuba   Hershey train at Hershey station
Above:  Hershey electric train at Havana's Casablanca station.  Photo courtesy of Kees Lafeber   Above:  The Hershey train at Hershey station...  Photo courtesy of Kees Lafeber

Santiago de Cuba's new railway stationDriver & cigar, Budd railcarBuying train tickets in Havana...

Foreign visitors cannot buy train tickets at the Estacion Central, but should walk on round the corner to the Le Coubre station on the Avenida del Peurto.  From the Estacion Central, continue down Egido Street along the Old Wall towards the harbour and then turn right, and it's about 100m away.

At other stations, you can book at the normal ticket office.  It's best to book a day or two in advance if you can.

Children aged 0 to 4 travel free, children aged 5 to 11 travel at half fare, children aged 12 and over pay full fare.

Traveller Murray reports from 2011:  "At Le Coubre station, The waiting room is open with 4 smaller rooms along the left hand wall.  A man seated at the desk just inside the door will ask you which train you would like to catch.  I was asked to go into the room at the end of the row in the far left hand corner.  The ticketing person asked for my passport and then I took a seat for about 5 mins before I was called back into the room to pay and retrieve my passport.  The ticket is a flimsy piece of paper so take care of it because this is what you hand over to the person at the window when you check in, the person at the gate entrance to the platform and to the staff member at the door of your carriage."

Traveller Emil reports:  "You cannot buy a ticket from the Estacion Central, you have to go to a building around the corner, closer to the port [The LADIS office].  There are seats and you have to wait to be called.  I think we were called quite quickly though, being foreigners.  There are undesirables at the station that will offer to help confused tourists, so don't believe everything you're told. Foreigners have to pay in convertible pesos, abbreviated CUC. The locals pay the same amount, but in national pesos so actually they pay a lot less. We did this the day before - I am not sure if you can do this on the same day as you travel.  When you go to the station to catch your train, you first need to go to a window in the middle of the station where you confirm your ticket. You need to hand them your tickets together with your passports and they will fill in some paperwork. You must do this before getting on the train!  There are no signs or anything saying that you have to do this."

Right:  The driver of a Havana to Santiago train smoking a Havana cigar...

Far right:  The new passenger rail station at Santiago de Cuba.  The old one is now derelict.


 Hotels in Cuba...

Finding hotels in Havana, Varedero, Santiago & other cities in Cuba...

Search by hotel name  Powered by Hotelscombined.com

 

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booking websites at once...

Hotel reservations? Find the right hotel first. Compare here.

www.hotelscombined.com is probably the best hotel search system I've seen, a free search tool which checks all the main hotel booking sites (Opodo, Expedia, Booking.com, Hotels.com, AsiaRooms, Travelocity, LateRooms and others) to find the cheapest hotel rates.  Set up in 2005, it's probably the best place to start for booking any hotel online in any country, worldwide.

Personal hotel recommendations in Havana...

There's no shortage of historic hotels in Havana, many with movie star or Hemingway connections.  The oldest hotel in Havana is the venerable Inglaterra, very central near the Capitolio and walking distance from Old Havana.  The most luxurious hotel, even today, is the Nacional de Cuba, once the haunt of Sinatra and Ava Gardner, although it's quite a hike from the Capitolio in central Havana, and further still from Old Havana. The Sevilla is also a good choice, not far from the Inglaterra and once Al Capone's favourite.  Finally, there's the comfortable Ambos Mundos, located right within Old Havana, where Hemingway's room can still be seen, complete with typewriter, an excellent choice.

The Inglaterra Hotel, Havana, Cuba  
The Inglaterra Hotel, Havana   Vintage Cuban car taken near the Havana seafront...

 Flights...

Overland travel by train & bus around Cuba is an essential part of the experience, so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground!  But a long-haul flight might be unavoidable to reach Cuba in the first place.  For flights to Havana, compare different airlines using www.e-bookers.com.  Seat61 gets a small commission through this link.


 Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable

It was probably the most adventurous timetable ever produced...  The famous Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable has train, bus and ferry times for Cuba and every other country in North and South America, Asia, Africa, and Australasia.  Published every two months, it's essential for any serious overland traveller, and an inspiration for armchair travellers!

Sadly, the Nov/Dec 2010 edition was the very last ever to be published, but you may still be able to buy a copy of the final edition at Amazon.co.uk, Overseas Timetable Winter 2010/2011 edition.  It'll remain useful for years to come!

Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable - click to buy    

Rough Guide to Cuba - buy online at Amazon.co.ukLonely Planet Cuba - buy online at Amazon.co.ukTake a good guidebook to get the most from a trip to Cuba.  For independent travellers I'd recommend either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide, both guidebooks provide an excellent level of practical information and historical and cultural background.  Lonely Planet Cuba - Rough Guide to Cuba

Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk

Or buy direct from the Lonely Planet website, with shipping worldwide.


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