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Take the train to
Machu Picchu...
Regular train slink Cusco and Ollantaytambo with the
famous Inca city of Machu Picchu... Photo
courtesy of Tim Roberts |
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The Cusco to Puno train... This
is the Puno
to Cuzco Andean Explorer, stopped for a photo
opportunity at
the highest point. Some say it's better than the
train to Machu Picchu! Photo courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
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Peru has several train services of interest to visitors,
including the famous train to Machu Picchu. There are two separate
networks:
-
The southern network including
Cusco to Machu Picchu
& Cusco to Puno (on Lake Titicaca).
Passenger trains are run by a western company
called PeruRail (www.perurail.com), part of the Venice
Simplon Orient Express group. Two other private
companies,
www.machupicchutrain.com &
www.incarail.com also offer competing shuttle trains to Machu
Picchu, starting from Ollantaytambo which is further up the valley
towards the Inca city.
-
The northern network links Lima with Huancayo.
The train to Machu Picchu
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Unless you hike there up the Sacred Valley on foot along the
Inca Trail, you'll need
to take a train to reach the famous Inca ruins at Machu
Picchu. However, there are three possible starting
points, namely Poroy, which is 13 km (8 miles) from Cusco,
Ollantaytambo which is in the Sacred Valley itself, 89 km
(56 miles) from Cusco, and there's also one train a day from Urubamba.
There are three competing train companies, PeruRail is the
main one, but there are two smaller companies Inca
Rail and Machu Picchu Train. PeruRail operates a range of different
train classes to suit different budgets from the cheap and
cheerful 'Expedition' through the mid-range 'Vistadome' to
the super-deluxe 'Hirham Bingham'. This page will
guide you through the options for an unforgettable visit to
Machu Picchu.
|
IMPORTANT UPDATE 2 JANUARY TO 15 APRIL 2012:
The direct trains from Cusco (Poroy) to
Machu Picchu are temporarily cancelled from 2
January to 15 April 2012, or rather, will start from
Ollantaytambo instead of Poroy, to reduce risk from
landslides during the rainy season. The
shuttle trains from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu
are not affected and will run normally.
Buses will replace the Poroy-Machu Picchu
'Expedition' and 'Vistadome' trains between Cusco
Wanchaq bus station and Ollantaytambo, buses will
replace the deluxe 'Hirham Bingham' between Cusco
Wanchaq bus station and Orient Express's Rio Sagrado
Hotel in Urubamba, then onwards by train. See
www.perurail.com. |
The nicest option is to catch the train to Machu
Picchu all the way from Cusco, the big city where most visitors arrive.
Sadly, trains no longer depart from the historic main
station in Cusco itself. As from 1 April 2009 all
the tourist trains leave from Poroy station, a local halt
situated 13 kilometres (8 miles) west
of Cuzco. This means you miss out on the scenic but
slow zig-zag train ride up Picchu Hill between Cuzco &
Poroy, but you take the train almost all the way from Cusco
to Machu Picchu.
How do you get to Poroy? You'll need to take a
bus or taxi from downtown Cusco to Poroy. A 3-seat taxi
from Cusco to Poroy costs around 20-30 soles (£4-£6 or
$6-$9) per taxi, and takes around 20 minutes. There's
a local bus for 6 soles per person.
Which train company to choose? The trains from
Poroy to Machu Picchu are all run by
www.perurail.com,
which is part of the Venice Simplon Orient Express group.
PeruRail took
over operation of this network from the Peruvian railway
company ENAFER in 1999. If you can't get a seat on the three
daily direct trains from Poroy, there are additional shuttle
trains from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu, run by a choice
of three different companies,
see here.
Which train to choose? PeruRail run four
different trains from Poroy to Machu Picchu every day, aimed
at different budgets:
-
The Hiram Bingham. This is the super-deluxe option
and the most expensive, from
around $334 (£222) each way per person, including gourmet
brunch on the way out and dinner on the way back, a
selection of Peruvian wine, cocktails, entertainment, bus connections & entrance
to the Machu Picchu citadel plus guided tour. A real
luxury experience!
See the Hirham
Bingham photos below.
-
The Vistadome. This is the mid-range option, costing
around $71 per person including complimentary snacks & non-alcoholic
drinks served at your seat. It's a series of diesel
railcars with panoramic windows
as its name suggests,
see the Vistadome photos below.
-
The Expedition (formerly the Backpacker). This
is the budget option, from around
$48 each way per person. It has basic but reasonably
comfortable seating with panoramic windows and a buffet car where you can buy
non-alcoholic drinks and snacks. In many ways it's not
really that different from the Vistadome.
-
The Local. A subsidised train service only for local Peruvian communities and (at certain times of year)
Peruvian citizens, leaving Cusco at 07:15. Foreigners aren't allowed
on this train, and it's not shown on their website.
Cusco
► Machu Picchu
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Train: |
Vistadome |
Expedition |
Hiram Bingham |
|
Cusco depart: |
(by taxi) |
(by taxi) |
(by taxi) |
|
Poroy (13km west of Cusco) depart: |
06:53 |
07:42 |
09:10 |
|
Ollantaytambo arrive/depart: |
08:40 |
09:35 |
11:10 |
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Machu Picchu arrive: |
10:38 |
10:51 |
13:09 |
Machu Picchu
► Cusco
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Train: |
Vistadome |
Expedition |
Hiram Bingham |
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Machu Picchu depart: |
16:00 |
17:03 |
18:07 |
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Ollantaytambo arrive/depart: |
17:57 |
19:08 |
20:06 |
|
Poroy
(13km west of Cusco) arrive: |
19:42 |
21:01 |
21:59 |
|
Cusco arrive: |
(by taxi) |
(by taxi) |
(by taxi) |
Poroy to Machu Picchu is 86 km
(54 miles). Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu is 38 km (24
miles). Poroy is 3486 metres above sea level, Ollantaytambo
2600m, Machu Picchu 2350m.
If you can't
get a ticket for one of the PeruRail trains starting direct from
Cusco (or rather, from Poroy just 8 miles away), don't worry, there
are additional shuttle trains from Ollantaytambo
to Machu Picchu, run by a choice of three different
private companies. Ollantaytambo is 89 km (56
miles) from Cusco, 1 hour 40 minutes by taxi, so a
longer bus or taxi ride, shorter train ride. There's also one train a day from
Urubamba.
-
PeruRail service:
www.perurail.com
operates shuttle trains from
Ollantaytambo
to Machu Picchu at
intervals through the day. Some of these shuttle trains
are 'Vistadome' and some the cheaper 'Expedition'.
Fares vary by date and departure, but Expedition fares
start at around $35, Vistadome fares at around $54.
Check times and fares and book online at
www.perurail.com.
Ollantaytambo
to Machu Picchu departures at 06:10,
07:05, 07:45, 08:00, 08:53, 10:32, 12:58, 13:27, 15:37,
19:00, 21:00. Journey time 1 hour 30 minutes.
Machu Picchu to Ollantaytambo departures at
05:35, 08:53, 10:55, 13:37, 14:55, 15:48, 16:22, 17:27,
18:10, 18:45, 21:30. Journey time 1 hour 30
minutes.
-
Machu Picchu Trains:
www.machupicchutrain.com
runs three trains a day,
leaving Ollantaytambo at 07:20,
11:48 & 12:36, returning from Machu Picchu at 10:32,
16:12, 19:15. Journey time around 1 hour 30
minutes, fare $59 each way.
Check times and fares on their website.
-
Inca Rail:
www.incarail.com runs three trains a day,
leaving
Ollantaytambo at 06:40, 11:35 and 16:36,
returning from Machu Picchu at 08:30, 14:02 and 19:00.
Journey time around 1 hour 30 minutes, fare $50 each
way. Check times and fares on their website.
-
Daily PeruRail train from Urubamba:
www.perurail.com
also run one train from Urubamba to Machu Picchu at 06:50, journey
time 2 hours 35 minutes, returning from Machu Picchu to
Urubamba at 15:48.
First, buy your entry tickets to Machu Picchu Inca ruins at
www.machupicchu.gob.pe...
These can be bought in advance online at
www.machupicchu.gob.pe or in Cusco at the National
Culture Institute (INC) at Avenida La Cultura 238,
Condominio Huascar (in front of the Universitario Stadium).
Since July 2011, visitor numbers have been limited to 2,500
per day, about the expected number on a normal day in a busy
month such as June, but less than the numbers previously
visiting in the busiest peak months of July and August, so book
ahead at
www.machupicchu.gob.pe. If you book in advance at
www.machupicchu.gob.pe (recommended), just remember
you'll still have to exchange the printout for an actual
ticket at the office at either Cusco or Aguas Calientes.
For lunch at Machu Picchu, you can eat lunch at The
Sanctuary, at around US$33 it's expensive but saves you an
hour travelling to Aguas Calientes and back for lunch in the
town.
Then buy your train tickets online at
www.perurail.com...
You can buy tickets for all three tourist trains
from Poroy to Machu Picchu online at
www.perurail.com.
Train tickets can also be bought from Perurail offices at
Lima Airport on level 2 between gates 13 & 14, or in Cusco
at Portal de Carnes 214, Plaza de Armas, Cusco, call (084)
260809 or (084) 260792. Tickets for the alternative
MachuPicchuTrain service from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu
can be bought at
www.machupicchutrain.com, and for the Inca Rail trains
at
www.incarail.com.
Where is the station at Machu Picchu? How do you get
to the Inca ruins?
The station referred to as 'Machu Picchu' is in fact located
in the local town of Aguas
Calientes, approximately 8 km (5 miles) from the ruined Inca city
of Machu Picchu. A bus link runs every 30 minutes from the station to
the ruins costing US$10 return, payable in either US$ or
local Peruvian currency. To find out more about
the Inca ruins, see
www.peru-machu-picchu.com or
www.machupicchu.org.
What's the journey like?
The Vistadome & Backpacker trains (the latter now
renamed 'Expedition') used to leave from Cusco's main
San Pedro station on the Avenida Sol and spent half an hour
climbing a series of Switchbacks or 'zig-zags' up the
mountainside to gain height. Unfortunately, all trains
now start from Poroy (the Hirham Bingham always started
here), and so miss this interesting section. After
Poroy the train descends into the Sacred Valley and the
Andean foothills, along the Urubamba river. You'll
pass colourful villages and herds of llamas. Cusco to
Machu Picchu is 107 km (67 miles), Poroy to Machu Picchu is
86km (54 miles). The best views are on the left hand
side of the train going up to Machu Picchu and on the right
hand side returning, as the train follows the river and this
is the side which the river is on, with the odd Inca ruin or
terrace visible as the train runs along the Sacred Valley.
PeruRail won't assign seats on a particular side, but you
can easily move over if there are empty seats after
departure.
 |
|
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| On
the train to Machu Picchu... This is a
PeruRail shuttle train from Ollantaytambo to Machu
Picchu. Photo courtesy of Tim Roberts |
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Viewing the
mountain tops through the roof windows!
Photo courtesy of Tim Roberts |
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Above:
The 'Expedition' train from Cusco to Machu Picchu
running alongside the Urubamba River...
Photo courtesy of Dennis Nichol |
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Above: The
'Expedition'
train from Cusco approaches Machu Picchu. Photo courtesy
of 's'. |
This is the
mid-range option, a good choice. The price includes
complimentary snacks & non-alcoholic drinks served at your
seat.
 |
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The
Vistadome train at Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu).
Photo courtesy of Nicola Herbert |
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Inside the Vistadome train. Photo courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
This is the
luxury option, the most expensive of the trains to Machu
Picchu and one in a category all by itself. This
luxurious train ride includes a gourmet brunch on the
outward trip and dinner on the way back, a selection of
Peruvian wine, cocktails, entertainment, bus connections,
Machu Picchu entrance fee and a guided tour.
 |
|
 |
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The Hirham Bingham,
showing the open-air observation car at the rear. Photo courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
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The Hirham Bingham dining-car. Courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
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|
 |
| An
elegant dinner is served on the way back. Photo courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
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The
Hirham Bingham train on its way to Machu Picchu. Photo courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
The "Andean Explorer": Better than the train to Machu
Picchu?
PeruRail also run an excellent train called the 'Andean
Explorer' from Cusco to Puno
on Lake Titicaca. It runs 3 times a week and covers 385 km in a 10-hour scenic daytime journey from $220 per person,
three-course lunch and afternoon tea included. This
luxurious train has a dining-car, lounge and
open-air observation car at the rear.
It gets great reviews from travellers, a superb journey that
knocks the spots off a flight or bus journey, it's well
worth the extra cost to take the train.
Cusco ► Puno
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Puno ► Cusco
|
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"Andean
Explorer" |
Mon, Wed, Sat |
"Andean
Explorer" |
Mon, Wed, Sat |
|
Cusco (Wanchaq station) depart: |
08:00 |
Puno depart: |
08:00 |
|
La
Raya arrive: |
12:30 |
La
Raya arrive: |
12:45 |
|
La Raya depart: |
12:50 |
La Raya depart: |
13:00 |
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Puno arrive: |
18:00 |
Cusco (Wanchaq station) arrive: |
18:00 |
The Andean Explorer may also run on Fridays from April to
October. Cusco to Puno is 385 km (241 miles).
Fares: From $220 per person including lunch and
afternoon tea.
How to buy tickets:
www.perurail.com for times, fares and online booking.
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The Andean Explorer
train from Cusco to Puno at La Raya. Photo courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
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The bar-lounge in the
Andean Explorer's tail-end observation car.
Photo courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
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The pullman-style interior of the Andean
Explorer.
Photo courtesy of 'Dennis Nichol |
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The Andean Explorer at La Raya, showing the observation
car with open-air viewing deck.
Courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
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Scenery along the
railway between Cusco and Puno. Although these
shots show the railway, they weren't taken from the
train. Photos courtesy of Tim Roberts |
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| The 'Andean Explorer' , stopped at La
Raya for a photo opportunity. Photo courtesy of Dennis Nichol |
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Ready
for an elegant lunch... Photo courtesy of
Railbookers.com. |
The
air-conditioned 'Tren de
Sierra' links Lima & Huancayo once or twice a month,
with touristico (1st) class & clasico (2nd) class & bar
car. Touristico fares (around 160-200 Soles or
£32-£40) includes breakfast and complimentary tea,
coffee, water and soft drinks. Classico fares
start at 100 Soles £20. You can check departure dates
& book tickets online at
www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe. In Lima, the train
departs from Desamparados or Monserrate stations.
Twice daily trains link
Huancayo with Huancavelica.
Sponsored links...
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   To
get the most out of your trip to Peru, you'll need a
decent guidebook. For the serious independent
traveller this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough
Guide. Both guides have everything you need - plenty
of background historical and cultural information, plus
practical information.
Buy
Lonely Planet Peru online at Amazon.co.uk
Buy
Rough Guide to South America online at Amazon.co.uk
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Hotels
in Cusco, Machu Picchu, Lima & elsewhere in Peru & South America...
|
Search by hotel name
Powered by
Hotelscombined.com |
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◄◄◄◄◄ Search all the major hotel
booking websites at once...
www.hotelscombined.com
is probably the best hotel search system I've seen, a free search tool
which checks all the main hotel booking sites (Opodo, Expedia,
Booking.com, Hotels.com, AsiaRooms, Travelocity, LateRooms and
others) to find the cheapest hotel rates. Set up in
2005, it's probably the best place to start for booking any
hotel online in any country, worldwide.
|
Other hotel sites worth a look...
-
www.tripadvisor.com
is a huge resource, a good place to browse independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.
-
www.booking.com is my own preferred hotel booking system
(Hotels Combined being a booking site comparison system). It
has a simple interface, a good selection in most countries
worldwide, useful online customer reviews of each hotel, and
decent prices, usually shown inclusive of unavoidable extras
such as taxes (a pet hate of mine is systems that show one
price, then charge you another!).
 Backpacker hostels...
If you're on a tight budget,
don't forget the hostels. For a dorm bed or an
ultra-cheap private room in backpacker hostels in most
European cities use
www.hostelbookers.com.
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Overland travel by train & bus
around South America is an essential part of the experience,
so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground!
But a long-haul flight might be unavoidable to reach SA in
the first place. For flights to
Peru & other countries in South America, start with
E-Bookers. Opodo is a flight-booking site started by
a consortium of airlines and Amadeus, and it's normally
where I start looking for a flight myself. Seat61 gets a small commission through this link.
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