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Above:
The PeruRail Puno-Cuzco 'Andean Explorer' train stops for a photo stop at
the highest point. Photo courtesy of 's' |
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Peru has several train services of interest to visitors,
including the famous train to Machu Picchu. There are two separate
networks:
There are 4 different trains from Cuzco to Machu Picchu
every day, all run by
www.perurail.com,
part of the Venice Simplon Orient Express group which took
over operation of this network from the Peruvian railway
company ENAFER in 1999.
As of 1 April 2009 all
tourist trains leave from Poroy station, a local halt
situated 13 kilometres (8 miles) west
of Cuzco, about 20 minutes by taxi.
A 3-seat taxi
from Cusco to Poroy costs around 20-30 soles (£4-£6 or
$6-$9) per taxi. There's a bus for 6 soles per person. The trains no longer leave from Cuzco's main
station, sadly missing out on a scenic but slow zig-zag train ride
up Picchu Hill between Cuzco & Poroy. Each train serves a different tourist
market:
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The Hiram Bingham. This is the luxury option, from
around $295 (£148) each way per person, including gourmet
meals, cocktails, entertainment, bus connections & entrance to the Machu
Picchu citadel plus guided tour. This train leaves
at 09:00 from Poroy station, a taking 3 hours.
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The Vistadome. The mid-range option. This now also starts at Poroy
station at 06.57, and takes 3 hours. It costs
around $71 per person including complimentary snacks & non-alcoholic
drinks served at your seat. It's a series of diesel
railcars with panoramic windows
as its name suggests, see the photos below.
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The Backpacker. The budget option, from
around $48 each way per person. This also starts from
Poroy station 07:42, taking 3 hours 10 mins. It has basic
but reasonably comfortable seating an a buffet car where you
can buy non-alcoholic drinks and snacks.
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The Local. A subsidised train service for
the local Peruvian communities and (at certain times of year) Peruvian citizens only,
leaving Cusco at 07:15 for Aguas Calientes, 2km beyond
Machu Picchu station. Foreigners aren't allowed to
take this train.
In addition, there are extra shuttle trains between
Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo) & Machu Picchu at
intervals through the day, see
www.perurail.com.
What's the journey like?
The Vistadome & Backpacker trains leave from Cusco's main
San Pedro station on the Avenida Sol and spend half an hour
climbing a series of Switchbacks or 'zig-zags' up the
mountainside to gain height. Hiram Bingham passengers
are bussed to Poroy, and so miss this section. After
Poroy the train descends into the Sacred Valley and the
Andean foothills, along the Urubamba river. You'll
pass colourful villages and herds of llamas.
Cusco to Machu Picchu is 107 km (67 miles). The
station at Machu Picchu is in fact called Aguas
Calientes, which is 8 km (5 miles) from the ruined Inca city
itself. A bus link runs frequently from the station to
the ruins costing about $10 return.
How to buy tickets
You can book the three tourist-orientated trains online at
www.perurail.com.
Useful links:
www.peru-machu-picchu.com,
www.machupicchu.org.
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Above: The
'Backpacker'
train from Cusco approaches Machu Picchu. Photo courtesy
of 's'. |
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Above:
The Backpacker train from Cusco to Machu Picchu
Photo courtesy of Dennis Nichol |
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Above: The
'Vistadome' train at Aquas Calientes (Machu Picchu).
Photo courtesy of Nicola Herbert |
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Above:
Inside the Vistadome train
Photo courtesy of Nicola Herbert |
PeruRail also run the 'Andean Explorer' 3 times each week from Cusco to Puno
on Lake Titicaca, 385 km in a 10-hour scenic daytime journey from $143 per person.
Departs Cusco 08:00 on Mondays, Wednesdays & Saturdays.
It departs Puno at 08:00 on Mondays, Wednesdays & Saturdays. See
www.perurail.com for times, fares and online booking.
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| Above:
The 'Andean Explorer' train from Cusco to Puno, stopped at Laraya for a photo opportunity. Photo courtesy of Dennis Nichol |
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Above: The pullman-style interior of the Andean
Explorer.
Photo courtesy of 'Dennis Nichol |
The
air-conditioned 'Tren de
Sierra' links Lima & Huancayo once or twice a month,
with touristico (1st) class & clasico (2nd) class & bar
car. Touristico fares (around 160-200 Soles or
£32-£40) includes breakfast and complimentary tea,
coffee, water and soft drinks. Classico fares
start at 100 Soles £20. You can check departure dates
& book tickets online at
www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe. In Lima, the train
departs from Desamparados or Monserrate stations.
Twice daily trains link
Huancayo with Huancavelica.
Sponsored links:
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The Thomas Cook European Timetable
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 The
Thomas Cook Overseas timetable
is probably
the most adventurous timetable ever produced... It has train, bus and ferry times
for Peru, including the Machu Picchu train, plus all of Central and South America, North America,
Australia, New Zealand, Asia and Africa. It is published
every two months. No serious overland traveller should
be without it!
It costs £13.99 from the bureau de change in any branch of Thomas Cook, or
buy the latest
edition online at
www.thomascooktimetables.com.
It can be ordered by phone on 01733 416477 (+44 1733 416477
from outside the UK). Alternatively, you can
buy the twice-yearly Independent Traveller's edition at
Amazon.co.uk also with shipping worldwide.
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   To
get the most out of your trip to Peru, you'll need a
decent guidebook. For the serious independent
traveller this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough
Guide. Both guides have everything you need - plenty
of background historical and cultural information, plus
practical information.
Buy
Lonely Planet Peru online at Amazon.co.uk
Buy
Rough Guide to South America online at Amazon.co.uk
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Hotels
in Cusco, Machu Picchu, Lima & elsewhere in Peru & South America...
A good guidebook like the Lonely Planet or
Rough Guides will point you at some good hotels in each town
or city when you get there, or you
can pre-book hotels using
www.hotelscombined.com, just use the search box
below. This is not a hotel booking website, but a free search tool
which checks all the main hotel booking sites for you (AsiaRooms,
Opodo, Expedia, Travelocity, LateRooms and many others) to
find the cheapest hotel rates on the net. Set up in
2005, it's an amazing system and probably the best place to
start for booking any hotel online in any country, worldwide.
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Overland travel by train & bus
around South America is an essential part of the experience,
so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground!
But a long-haul flight might be unavoidable to reach SA in
the first place. For flights to
Peru & other countries in South America, start with
Opodo.com. Opodo is a flight-booking site started by
a consortium of airlines and Amadeus, and it's normally
where I start looking for a flight myself. Seat61 gets a small commission through this link.
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