Arriving in Bangkok by train from Singapore, you get a real sense of arrival...  Note the picture of the King of Thailand, just visible over the exit from the platforms.
	Click for interactive train route map...

How to use the trains in Thailand...

Thailand has one of the best metre-gauge rail systems in the world, and train travel is easily the best way to get around & see the country.  Train travel in Thailand is comfortable, safe, cheap, environmentally friendly.  And unlike flying, it's a genuine Thai experience making the journey as much a part of your trip as the destination.  Taking the train is easily the best way to travel between Bangkok & Chiang Mai, a train+ferry combo is the best way from Bangkok to Ko Samui, and a train+bus combo is the best way from Bangkok to Krabi or Phuket.  Heading for Laos?  Take the new Bangkok-Vientiane train.  Taking the train is also a wonderful way to travel between Bangkok, Penang, Kuala Lumpur & Singapore, the 1,233-mile journey to Singapore takes 48 hours & costs a mere $60/£40 or so one-way including a sleeper berth for both nights.  This page has schedules & fares for key train routes in Thailand, and explains how to buy tickets both within & from outside Thailand.  On this page you'll find:

Train times & fares for popular routes...

Bangkok - Chiang Mai

Bangkok - Nong Khai (for Vientiane, see the Laos page)

Bangkok - Ubon Ratchathani

Bangkok - Aranyaprathet (for Phnom Penh, Siem Reap & Cambodia)

Bangkok - Kanchanaburi - River Kwai Bridge - Nam Tok

Bangkok - Ayutthaya

Bangkok - Samut Songkhram the Mahachai Mae Khlong Market train

Bangkok - Hua Hin - Surat Thani - Trang - Hat Yai - Sungai Kolok

Bangkok - Penang - Kuala Lumpur - Singapore by comfortable train

Bus & ferry links...

Bangkok to Koh Tao (train+ferry)

Bangkok to Ko Samui & Ko Phangan (train+ferry)

Bangkok to Phuket (train+bus) & Ko Phi Phi (ferry)

Bangkok to Krabi (train+bus)

Bangkok to Sukhothai (train+bus)

Bangkok to Chiang Rai (train+bus)

Singapore, Kuala Lumpur & Penang to Ko Samui

Singapore, Kuala Lumpur & Penang to Phuket

General information for train travel in Thailand...

How to buy tickets online

How to buy tickets in person at the station

What are Thai trains like?

Food on Thai trains  Sample restaurant car menu

Bangkok Hualamphong station location & facilities

Luggage, left luggage & taking bikes

Train route map

Useful country information - currency, visas, time zone, dialling code

Hotels in Bangkok - Hotels in Chiang Mai

Hotel search & price comparison

Travel insurance

Flights to Thailand

London to Thailand overland by Trans-Siberian Railway

International trains & buses from Thailand...

Bangkok to Penang, Kuala Lumpur & Singapore by scheduled daily train for just $55

Bangkok to Singapore by Eastern & Oriental Express deluxe cruise train from around $2,000.

Bangkok to Siem Reap, Angkor Wat & Phnom Penh (Cambodia) by train & bus

Bangkok to Vientiane (Laos) by train

Bangkok to Saigon (Vietnam) by train & bus via Cambodia

Saigon to Hanoi by train   Hanoi to Beijing by train

Train travel in Singapore & Malaysia   

Singapore to Jakarta by ferry & train travel in Indonesia

Sponsored links...

Useful country information

General train information for Thailand

	Download Dave Bernstein's superb PDF format Thai timetable and take it with you. Download complete Thai train timetable Download shorter summary version

State railways of Thailand website, www.railway.co.th.

You can check train times in Thailand at the Thai Railways website, www.railway.co.th.  They completely revamped their website in March 2011, and it's now easy to check train times and fares online.  It can help to know that the Northern Line means the line to Chiang Mai, the Southern Line means the line south to Surat Thani and Hat Yai, also the line to Kanchanaburi & the River Kwai.  The Thai Railways main website doesn't sell tickets, so to buy tickets see the advice here.

Download English-language PDF timetable & train guide for Thailand...

Thai rail expert Dave Bernstein has produced a superb PDF format timetable for the State Railway of Thailand which you can download, print out and take with you to help you travel around Thailand.  It features timetables for all the main routes in English, maps, fares, refund & ticket purchase arrangements, details of bus/ferry connections and much more.  Highly recommended!

Maps of the Thai train network

A modern rail link between Suvarnabhumi airport and central Bangkok opened on 23 August 2010, see http://airportraillink.railway.co.th or www.bangkokairporttrain.com.  Trains now run between the airport and the City Air terminal at Makkasan ('Makkasan Express') every 30 minutes, journey time 15 minutes, fare 90 baht (£2 or $3) and between the airport and the city centre at Phaya Thai Skytrain station ('Phaya Thai express') every 30 minutes, journey time 17 minutes, fare 90 baht (£2 or $3).  There is interchange stations with the MRT (metro) at Phetchaburi station and with the Skytrain at Phaya Thai station.  It does not directly serve Bangkok's main Hualamphong station.  State Railways of Thailand trains between Bangkok and Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai & Nong Khai (for Vientiane in Laos) call at Don Muang station, right next to the old Bangkok Airport, about 50 minutes (22 km) from central Bangkok.  However, most commercial flights were transferred from the original Dong Muang Bangkok Airport to the new Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport in September 2006.

What are Thai trains like?

Which class of accommodation?

Thai trains have three classes:  1st, 2nd, 3rd.  1st class only exists as modern air-conditioned sleeping-cars on overnight trains.  2nd class comes in seat and sleeper versions, in air-conditioned and non-air-con varieties, and is very comfortable especially on sleeper trains and the air-conditioned express railcars.  Even 3rd class is surprisingly clean and acceptable by European standards, and is an enjoyable way to travel for many shorter trips.  The photos below will help you decide which is best for you.  The sitting and sleeper areas of all trains are non-smoking.

Quick links:  1st class sleepers  2nd class sleepers  Restaurant cars  2nd class express railcars (DRC)  2nd class seats  3rd class seats

1st class sleepers...

1st class sleeping-cars are modern and air-conditioned, with lockable 2-berth compartments with washbasin.  Clean sheets and blankets, soap & towels are provided.  There's a western-style toilet at the end of the car even has a basic shower (cold water, but very welcome).  Passengers travelling alone share with another passenger of the same sex unless they to pay for sole occupancy.  The berths convert to a leatherette sofa for evening & morning use.  If there are 3 or 4 of you, you can book two adjacent 2-berth sleepers with an inter-connecting door between them (berths 1 & 2 connect to berths 3 & 4, berths 5 & 6 connect to 7 & 8, and so on).  A 1st class sleeper is a good choice if you want space and privacy, but the cheaper 2nd class sleepers are perfectly adequate for most people and in many ways more fun and more sociable.  On key routes such as Bangkok-Chiang Mai, Bangkok-Nong Khai or Bangkok-Surat Thani-Hat Yai, a steward or stewardess from the restaurant car will come round and take your food or drink order, offering you a set menu with several choices, around 180 baht for dinner and 100 baht for breakfast.  The meal will be delivered to your sleeper compartment, and if that suits you that's great, but it can be more fun and more social to go along to the restaurant car, where you'll get a wider choice - just be warned that as the attendants get commission, they have been known to deny that there's a restaurant car on the train when there is and you're free to go there if you want!  Train 13/14 Bangkok-Chiang Mai is an exception to the rule, it has an ex-Japanese 1st class sleeper, which (uniquely for Thailand) has single-berth compartments, see the photos below.  There are no 2-berth compartments on this train, but pairs of adjacent single-berth compartments have a connecting door, so berth 1 can be connected to berth 2, berth 3 to berth 4, and so on.

1st class sleeping-car of the normal Thai type, about to leave Hualamphong Station at the rear of Special Express train number 1 from Bangkok to Chiang Mai...		1st class 2-berth sleeper of the normal Thai type, in evening mode.  You can see how the seat back hinges up to form the upper berth.

Trains 13 & 14 Bangkok-Chiang Mai have an ex-Japanese sleeping-car: Unlike all the other trains, trains 13 & 14 between Bangkok and Chiang Mai have an ex-Japanese Railways first class sleeping-car, which has 10 single-berth compartments.  So if you book first class as a couple on this particular train, you'll get two separate single-bed compartments, there are no 2-berth compartments.  The attendant will make up a mattress & bedding on the flat bed you see here,

2nd class sleepers...

Most western visitors use 2nd class sleepers, which are comfortable, safe and great fun - in many ways I prefer them to the 1st class sleepers.  Berths are not in compartments, but are arranged 'open plan' either side of a central aisle.  During the evening and morning part of the journey, pairs of seats face each other on each side of the aisle.  At night, each pair of seats pulls together to form the bottom bunk, and an upper bunk folds out from the wall.  The attendant will make up your bunk with a proper mattress and fresh clean bedding, and will hook up the curtains which are provided for each bunk to give you privacy (see how he does this in the video below!).  2nd class sleepers come in both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned varieties, with the air-con ones usually being cleaner and more modern, but the non-a/c ones offering windows that open, better for photography.  The fare for an upper berth is a fraction cheaper, but the upper bunks tend to be narrower.  There's plenty of luggage room, take a bike lock if you want to chain up your luggage for peace of mind.  Security is not a problem, it's a great way to travel which saves time even compared to flying, and saves a hotel bill too.  Upper berths are fine for anyone up to 6' 2" tall, if you're taller than that you should choose a lower berth as these are significantly wider, allowing tall people to sleep comfortably on the diagonal.  On key routes such as Bangkok-Chiang Mai, Bangkok-Nong Khai or Bangkok-Surat Thani-Hat Yai, a steward or stewardess from the restaurant car may come round and take your food or drink order, offering you a set menu with several choices, around 180 baht for dinner and 100 baht for breakfast.  The meal will be delivered to your sleeper, and if that suits you that's great, but it can be more fun and more social to go along to the restaurant car, where you'll get a wider choice - just be warned that as the attendants get commission, they have been known to deny that there's a restaurant car on the train when there is and you're free to go there if you want!

2nd class air-con sleepers, most modern type:  These modern air-conditioned sleepers operate on trains 1 & 2 between Bangkok & Chiang Mai, trains 35/36 between Bangkok & Hat Yai, and Bangkok to Butterworth (Penang) on the International Express.  There is a washing area with two sinks, and both western & squat toilets, at the end of the coach.  Soap & toilet paper are provided.
2nd class sleepers on the International Express from Bangkok at Butterworth (Penang).		At night, upper & lower berths fold out, each with curtains for privacy...

2nd class sleepers are open-plan, with bays of seats either side of the aisle.		By day, a pair of spacious armchairs for two people, very civilised...

2nd class air-con sleepers, older type:  These older air-conditioned sleepers operate on train 69/70 between Bangkok & Nong Khai, and on many other overnight express trains in Thailand.  The layout is the same as the newer type shown above.

2nd class air-con sleepers, Japanese type used on trains 13 & 14 Bangkok-Chiang Mai:  Trains 13 & 14 between Bangkok & Chiang Mai now use very comfortable air-conditioned sleepers bought second-hand from Japan.  Unlike other Thai sleepers, the berths are arranged in bays of 4 in door-less compartments opening onto a side corridor.  Each berth has its own curtains for individual privacy.
2nd class non-air-conditioned sleepers:  These tend to be older and grubbier, but the fare is a fraction cheaper and some people prefer the ability to open a window, for example to take photographs.  There are fans on the ceiling, and window shutters to keep out the sun as well as glass panes.  I'm not sure about that green, though...

Restaurant cars...   Click here for sample menu

All the most important trains have a restaurant car, including trains 1, 2, 13, 14 Bangkok-Chiang Mai, trains 35 & 36 Bangkok-Hat Yai, trains 84 & 85 Bangkok-Surat Thani, trains 69 & 70 Bangkok-Nong Khai.  Some restaurant cars are air-conditioned like the one shown below, some are non-air-con.  The food is remarkably cheap and good, a set meal costs around 150-200 baht (£3-£4 or $5-$6) and you choose from a leaflet with pictures & English captions.  Beer is readily available and not expensive.  Travel tip:  In a 1st class sleeper, an attendant may take your order and serve it in your compartment.  If this suits you that's great, but it's more fun & more social to go to the restaurant car, where you'll get a wider choice - just be warned that as the attendants get commission, they have been known to deny that there's a restaurant car on the train when there certainly is and you're free to go there if you want!  Click here for sample menu & food photos. Food & drink vendors:  On almost all Thai trains, even 3rd class ones, you'll find vendors selling fruit, soft drinks and beer.  Obviously, you can bring your own food and drink if you like, bought at the station or nearby supermarket. One traveller reports "We particularly enjoyed the restaurant car, the food was better than expected and they switched on the disco lights and 70's bogie music after the sun went down!"
Air-conditioned restaurant on train 1 from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.		The seafood dinner, 200 baht (£4 or $6).

2nd class seats on a Special Express DRC (Diesel Rail Car)

The air-conditioned express diesel railcars (DRC) are an excellent option for daytime travel on routes such as Bangkok to Chiang Mai and Bangkok to Hua Hin, Chumphon & Surat Thani.  These air-conditioned trains were built by Daewoo in the mid 1990s and have comfortable 2nd class reclining seats.  There is a hostess service of a light meal, coffee & soft drinks included in the fare.  The pre-packed rice-based lunch isn't hugely substantial, so feel free to take some other supplies with you (and perhaps some beer) if you're hungry.  Relax and enjoy the journey as the scenery rolls by...
Boarding train 9 from Bangkok to Chiang Mai...		A hostess serves complimentary refreshments...

On board train 9, the daytime 'Special Express DRC' from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.  It has 2nd class air-con seating.		A Special Express DRC as used from Bangkok-Chiang Mai on trains 9 & 12 and Bangkok-Surat Thani on trains 40 & 43.

2nd class seats, ordinary express trains

A pleasant and comfortable way to travel for long-distance daytime journeys, although slower than the express railcars.  There are both air-conditioned and non-air-con varieties.  The advantage of the non-air-con coaches is the open windows and unrestricted views, a breeze wafting in as the train clickety-clacks through the Thai countryside.  Photos courtesy of Graeme Thorley.

2nd class non-air-conditioned coach...		2nd class seats...

3rd class seats, ordinary express & local trains

In spite of its name, 3rd class is a perfectly good option for short trips such as Bangkok to Kanchanaburi or Ayutthaya, as it's generally clean, not usually crowded outside the commuter peaks, unbelievably cheap, and sitting next to an open window as the train clickety-clacks through the countryside is a very pleasant experience.  Although, 2nd class would be better for long trips such as Bangkok to Nong Khai or Chiang Mai.  3rd class usually has padded seats, but some older carriages have wooden seats.  It's normally non-air-con, but air-con 3rd class exists on a few long distance routes.

3rd class non-air-conditioned coaches.		3rd class seats, with soft drinks & beer vendor!

How to buy train tickets, when in Thailand

How to buy tickets at the station...

It's easy to buy tickets yourself at the station when you get to Thailand.  All long-distance express trains require a reservation, which can be made on the day of travel or up to 60 days in advance.  Reservations are computerised, and the booking office at any main station can reserve seats or berths for any journey in Thailand.  Your ticket will have the train time and your seat or berth number printed on it.  3rd class local trains such as Bangkok-Ayutthaya or Bangkok-Kanchanaburi don't require a reservation, you just turn up, buy a ticket from the ticket office and hop on.

Buying tickets at Bangkok's Hualamphong station...

Bangkok's main Hualamphong Station has a well-organised ticket office on the main concourse.  TV screens above each window show what tickets each window sells.  Windows 15-22 are open for advance ticket sales daily from 08:30-16:00, see the photo below.  The other ticket windows are open at all other times selling tickets for travel today.  Incidentally, the old 'advance ticket office' in the corner near platform 3 closed in early 2011, you now need windows 15-22 of the main ticket office.

Bangkok Hualamphong Station, showing ticket office & the advance booking windows....		Bangkok's Hualamphong station information point, on the main concourse...

Busy periods... 

New Year (30 December to 3 January) & Songkran (Thai New Year, usually 11-16 April).  Normally there's no problem buying tickets when you get to Thailand, although obviously if it's mission-critical that you travel on a particular train on a particular date, it's better to pre-book using one of the methods suggested below.  However, there are a few holiday periods when booking ahead is strongly recommended under all circumstances.  The two biggest are New Year (30 December to 3 January) and Songkran (Thai New Year, usually 11-16 April).  If you want to travel at these periods you should definitely pre-book, preferably on the very day booking opens (60 days before departure).

Example train ticket...

As you can see from the example below, long-distance train tickets include a reservation on a specific train, in this case train 35 from Bangkok to Butterworth.  It's for a 2nd class sleeper, upper berth, in coach 2, berth number 17.  The 'TRV' at the bottom is the issuing office, in this case Travex, in other words ticketing agency www.thailandtrainticket.com.

How to buy train tickets, from outside Thailand

Although it's easy to buy tickets at the station when you get there, if you absolutely positively have to be on a specific train soon after arrival in Thailand, or you want to travel at peak Thai holiday periods (for example, around Christmas & New Year), it's a good idea to book in advance.  You can do this in several ways:  (1) Online at thairailticket.com, but as from January 20913 this service is sadly discontinued.  (2) By online enquiry or email with one of several reputable Thai travel agencies such as www.thailandtrainticket.com; (3) By email direct to Thai Railways.  Each of these options is explained below.

Option 1:  Buy tickets online at www.thairailticket.com.  No longer available!!

• Thai Railways launched online booking in February 2009, originally at www.thairailwayticket.com.  This became 'temporarily unavailable' in September 2010, but an updated system was reinstated at www.thairailticket.com on 1 August 2011.

• Unfortunately, State Railways of Thailand have decided to discontinue online booking as from 14 January 2013.  Why they have done this, and whether it is temporary or permanent, is not yet clear. 

• The alternative is to use one of the agencies such as www.thailandtrainticket.com described in option 2 below.

Option 2:  Buy train tickets from www.thailandtrainticket.com, www.asia-discovery.com or www.thaifocus.com

You can book Thai train tickets through several reliable Thai travel agencies such as www.thailandtrainticket.com, and this is probably the best option.  These agencies will book trains for you and have the tickets waiting for you at your hotel in Bangkok.  Naturally, they charge a small fee for this.  One of the best agencies is www.thailandtrainticket.com, formerly Traveller2000.com, as they charge the normal Thai Railways fare plus a 200 Baht (£4/$6) handling fee but they will reduce this to 150 Baht (£3/$5) if you say you've been referred by seat61.com.  You can pick up tickets at their office in Bangkok or have them delivered to any hotel in Bangkok or any other Thai town or city free of charge.  Alternatively, they can leave the tickets at the Information Counter at Hualamphong station in Bangkok for a delivery fee of 300 Baht (£6 or $9).  They can also courier tickets to any country worldwide, but expect this to cost typically over 2,100 Baht to a European country (£43), or over 1,200 Baht ($38) to North America.  Five seat61 correspondents have highly recommended www.thailandtrainticket.com for good and reliable service, and indeed I've used them myself - although since the Thai Railways stopped online bookings in early 2013 they have become poor at replying, perhaps because they now have too much business!  www.asia-discovery.com has so far been recommended by one correspondent, and two have recommended www.thaifocus.com, but be warned that Thaifocus charges much higher fees & fares.   Shop around to check what fees each agency charges before booking.  Reservations open 60 days (2 months) before departure, you can't book before then.

Option 3:  Buy train tickets by email direct to State Railways of Thailand...

This option saves you paying any agency fee, but it can be a slow process!  You can book direct with the State Railways of Thailand by emailing them at least 15 days (but less than 60 days) before your date of travel on passenger-ser@railway.co.th or by faxing them on + 66 2 225 6068.  Your fax or e-mail must include the journey, date, train number, departure time, class, seat or sleeper (upper or lower berth), number of passengers, your name and e-mail address.  You eventually will receive an e-mail confirmation, and you then collect and pay for your tickets at Bangkok Hualamphong station booking office at least 1 hour before departure.  Bookings open 60 days before departure, but email bookings are only accepted more than 15 days before departure to give them time to respond.  The Thai railways charge 200 Baht (£3 or $5) per email booking.  Booking this way normally works well, but recently several people have said they waited up to 2 weeks for a reply, another correspondent says it took Thai railways 18 days to reply, and one correspondent says he waited a month, so you may just have to be patient.  Some people have recently (2009) reported that they haven't had a reply.  If you have any problems, or need to make a booking less than 15 days before departure, try using an agency such as ThailandTrainTicket.com or Asia-Discovery.com as shown above.

How quickly do trains get fully booked?  

People often ask, "Will I be OK booking my Bangkok-Chiang Mai ticket at the station on the day?".  You might be fine, as it's normally fairly easy to find seats or berths available even on the day of travel or perhaps the day before, especially if you aren't fussy about which train you take or in which class.  But trains do get fully booked at peak Thai holiday periods.  If you're flexible and aren't travelling in a peak holiday period, you'll be fine buying tickets when you get to Thailand.  But if it's mission-critical to be on a specific train in a specific class on a specific date, then book in advance as shown above, it's worth the small agency fee to be sure of a place.

All trains operate from Bangkok's wonderful Hualamphong station right in the city centre, except for a few local trains (notably trains to Kanchanaburi & the River Kwai) which use the much smaller Thonburi (Noi) station on the far bank of the river.  Map of Bangkok showing Hualamphong station & Thonburi (Noi) station

Hualamphong Station opened in 1916, designed by an Italian architect brought to Thailand by the King of Siam...		The concourse at Bangkok Hualamphong Station. Note the King's picture above the entrance to the platforms...

Bangkok station facilities...

Train information counter:  In the photo above, it's on the far right-hand side of the concourse, with the white lightbox visible above it.  They can give you a simple pocket timetable in English for any of the main Thai rail lines.

Tickets for travel today:  To buy tickets for immediate travel, go to any of the ticket windows each side of the King's picture in the photo above.  In theory, the TV screens above each window say for which trains that window is selling tickets, but most screens merely say 'All trains'.

Advance ticket sales:  To buy tickets from 1 to 60 days in advance, go to the Advance Booking Office, open daily 08:30 to 16:00.  In the picture above right, head to the far right-hand corner of the concourse past the information counter and round the right-hand side of the concourse/platforms dividing wall towards platform 3.  The Advance Booking office is tucked away on the right.  When you enter, look for the machine issuing numbered queuing tickets, and wait till your number is called.  The helpful staff will soon sort you out with a train ticket!

Left luggage:  If you need to leave your bags somewhere, there's a staffed privatised left luggage office at the rear left-hand corner of the concourse, roughly underneath where the photo above was taken.  It's open 04:00 to 23:00 daily, prices 30, 50, 70 or 80-100 baht for a small/medium/large/extra large item per 24 hours, although what constitutes a small or large item isn't specified!

Food & drink:  There's a KFC outside the front of the station just outside the main front doors.  If you're desperate for a cappuccino, there's a good coffee shop on the left-hand balcony (the one from which the photo above is taken) or a more basic Thai restaurant on the right-hand balcony.  To buy supplies of water, beer and snacks for the journey, there's a 'Tiffy Mart' in the far left-hand corner of the concourse towards the taxi rank.

Taxis:  The taxi rank is on the left-hand side of the station.  In the photo above, you'd head towards the King's picture then turn left.  Expect a taxi to any city centre hotel to cost around 50 baht (£1 or $1.50).

Toilets & showers:  The toilets and showers are beyond the information counter in the far right-hand corner of the concourse.  They are of a reasonable standard, and a small fee is charged, 20 baht for toilets, a bit more for showers.

To ease congestion, State Railways of Thailand ultimately intend to move long-distance services out to a new terminal at Bang Sue junction station, 7km North of Hualamphong station, and at some point all long-distance trains will start from there instead of Hualamphong.  Suburban and short-distance trains will continue to run from Hualamphong, linking it to Bang Sue.  The new Bangkok metro also links Bang Sue to the rest of Bangkok.  For a metro map, see www.bangkokmetro.co.th.  However, all long distance trains are still using Hualamphong at the moment.

Luggage & bikes

Luggage arrangements are very simple:  You take your own luggage onto the train with you, and put it on the luggage rack next to your seat or berth or inside your 1st class sleeper compartment. It will be quite safe, although some travellers take a bike lock with them to padlock it to the rack at night.  You can put your daypack with camera, passport, and so on, in the berth alongside you at night.

Luggage limits:  Officially, every passenger is allowed one big suitcase and one smaller item although this is not rigorously enforced.  Your bags won't be weighed, but in principle baggage limits are a generous 60 Kg (110 lbs) for 1st class passengers, 40 Kg (88 lbs) for 2nd class passengers and 30 Kg (66 lbs) for 3rd class passengers.

Excess baggage:  Large items in excess of the allowance such as golf clubs or additional suitcases can be carried in the baggage car if you buy a cargo ticket.  You follow exactly the same procedure as for taking a bike, see the paragraph below.

Taking a bicycle on Thai trains:  You can take a bicycle on any train on any route in Thailand for a small fee, except on the diesel railcar (DRC) trains which don't take bikes or any other sort of cargo (and also not on the Bangkok airport rail link) and except on the trains to and from Malaysia south of Hat Yai as there is no baggage car.  First, buy your passenger ticket, either in advance or at the station on the day.  You cannot pre-book your bike, even if you pre-book your passenger ticket.  On the day of travel, go to the station with your passenger ticket, locate the cargo desk and buy a cargo ticket for your bike.  The cargo desk will be a chair, a desk and a set of scales on or near the platform, the location varies from station to station and some smaller stations don't have a cargo desk.  A cargo ticket costs around 90 to 130 baht (£2.00-£2.70 or $3-$5).  The price is a flat fee based on where the train is going, not on where you're going, so on a train going from Bangkok to Hat Yai, the cargo price is the same to Hua Hin as it is to Hat Yai.  Part of the cargo ticket will be attached to your bike, the other part to your passenger ticket.  If you arrive immediately before the train departs, or if there isn't a cargo desk at that station, you may be told to pay on the train.  When the train is ready for boarding, you take you bike to the baggage car for loading.  It's a good idea to provide something to secure your bike, a couple of luggage elastics or even just some plastic string picked up from one of the vendors on the platform, don't rely on this being provided.  Ask if you can secure your bike to the inside of the baggage car yourself, which they usually allow, as otherwise they may just lean it against other cargo and it could be damaged when the train is in motion.  Some 3rd class trains don't have a baggage car, so on these you'll have to manhandle your bike into a passenger carriage and stash it in the corridor next to one of the washrooms.  Now take your seat in the train.  At your destination, go to the baggage car, show your cargo ticket and collect your bike.  There is nothing further to pay when you arrive.

Left luggage offices:  There are left luggage offices at Bangkok Hualamphong station (see above), Chiang Mai, Surat Thani, Ayutthaya and most other major Thai stations where you can leave your luggage for a small fee whilst you explore the town.

Traveller David Mitchell reports on taking a bike on a train in Thailand:  "I can confirm that it is indeed possible to take bicycles on Thai trains, or at least the Bangkok to Chiang Mai route, though I’m sure it is similar for the others. You have to send the bike as cargo and it travels in the cargo/guards van.  The procedure is to buy your ticket, then locate the cargo office where they will fill out a cargo ticket.  They will attach part of the cargo ticket to the bike and part to your passenger ticket – the cost for a bike was 90 baht each way. You then have to drop off the bike in the cargo car yourself before taking your seat.  At your destination you go to the cargo car and collect the bike – you will have to show your ticket & cargo ticket before they will release it.  The cargo car sometimes gets full so it is worth turning up early to make sure that there is enough space in it to accommodate your bike."

Traveller Saibal Chatterjee took a bike from Thailand to Singapore by train:  "In April 2012 I set out to ride my bike from Chang Mai to Singapore. I managed to bike as far as Surat Thani but then fell sick due to heat & exhaustion.  So I carried on my journey towards Singapore by train.  I took the overnight Thai Railways train to Hat Yai with my bike safe in the luggage compartment. From Hat Yai I took the Malaysian Railway train to Padang Besar and on to Kuala Lumpur (same train).  I was allowed to take my bike on the Malaysian Railway train (at no extra charge). Initially I parked the bike between the space between the two toilets but the train conductor asked me to put it in the lockable luggage space on the other side of the compartment. I arrived at Kuala Lumpur station no problems.  At Kuala Lumpur station I had to talk with the station manager to be able to take my bike on the train to Singapore. After a bit of sweet talk he allowed me to take my bike on the day (chair car) train to Singapore only if I bought a first class ticket (no extra charge for bike). I borded the train and placed my bike between the last and the second last chairs. Later the ticket checker asked me to place the bike in the generator car so that it did not cause problems for other passengers. I did place my bike in the generator car and chained it with the door handle and reached Singapore without problems.

	All aboard for Chiang Mai!  Special Express number 1 to Chiang Mai at Bangkok...

It's easy to travel from Bangkok to Chiang Mai by train, for just 881 baht (£18 or $25) one-way by overnight sleeper or 611 baht (£12 or $18) by day through the countryside on the air-conditioned express railcar.  Travelling from Bangkok to Chiang Mai by sleeper is effectively faster than flying, far less hassle, far more environmentally friendly, more of a real Thai experience, and saves you a hotel bill, too.  Think you don't see much from a night train?  In fact, the scenery on the last third of the trip up into the mountains approaching Chiang Mai is particularly good, and even on the sleeper, watching the sunrise from the train in the morning is wonderful.  And of course, the sleeper train itself is the scenery, a real Thai train with a chance to meet Thai people.

*  Recommended trains from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.  Of the sleeper options, train 1 is faster so gets into Chiang Mai significantly earlier, but train 13 will show you more of the scenery approaching Chiang Mai in daylight.  Train 13/14 has no 1st class 2-berth sleepers, only ex-Japanese 1st class single-berth sleepers & 2nd class sleepers.

Train classes:

1 = 1st class sleepers.  S = 2nd class sleepers (air-conditioned).  s = 2nd class sleepers (non-air-con).  2 = 2nd class seats.  R = Restaurant car.

3 = 3rd class seats.  DRC = Diesel Railcar express with 2nd class air-conditioned seats, meals included (but DRC trains have no sleepers).

You can check train times at the Thai railways website www.railway.co.th (see advice on translating it here).  Many additional trains link Bangkok & Ayutthaya.

Quick links:  How to buy tickets   What are Thai trains like?   Map of train routes in SE Asia   Luggage & bikes   Hotels in Chiang Mai

Children aged 0 to 3 and less than 100cm in height travel free, children aged 4 to 11 and under 150cm travel at half fare, children 12 years old and upwards (or over 150cm high) pay full fare.

Sole occupancy of a 1st class sleeper:  The 1st class fare is for travel in a shared 2-berth sleeper.  Sole occupancy of a 2-berth sleeper is available for an extra 500 baht (£10 or $16).  Note that the ex-Japanese 1st class sleeping-car used on trains 13/14 has single-berth compartments anyway at the regular 1st class fare, with no additional sole occupancy charge necessary.

Upper or lower berths?  The sleeper fares shown here are for a lower bunk, a narrower upper bunk is 50-100 baht less.  Non-air-con 2nd class sleepers (available on a few trains) cost 160-200 baht less than the air-con variety.  You can check fares at www.railway.co.th (but do this by selecting 'timetables' as the fares shown at the bottom of each timetable page include the air-conditioning supplement, sleeper & special express supplements.  If you select the fares option, the fares shown don't include those supplements.

	The international train from Thanaleng to Nong Khai.  Photo courtesy of Glen Chivers.
	Railway to Laos open from March 2009...  This is the new rail terminal at Thanaleng, just on the Laos side of the Friendship bridge.  See the Laos page. Photo courtesy of Bob Fletcher

Here are trains between Bangkok & Nong Khai, near the border with Laos.  If you're travelling into Laos, see the Laos page for information on the new Bangkok-Vientiane train service & on local transport across the Friendship Bridge between Nong Khai & Vientiane.

Train classes:

1 = 1st class sleepers.  S = 2nd class sleepers (air-con).  s = 2nd class sleepers (non-air-con).  2 = 2nd class seats.  3 = 3rd class seats.  R = Restaurant car.  DRC = Diesel Railcar express with 2nd class air-conditioned seats, meals included (no sleepers).

* Recommended trains.

A train connection to Vientiane started in March 2009:  The Bangkok-Nong Khai railway has been extended across the Friendship Bridge into Laos, to a new station at Thanaleng on the Laos side of the Friendship Bridge some 13 km from Vientiane.  Two daily local shuttle trains link Nong Khai with Thanaleng in each direction, one of them providing a connection out of / in to train 69/70 to/from Bangkok, to provide a cheap and comfortable Bangkok-Vientiane train service.  See the Laos page for information on the new Bangkok-Thanaleng train service, and on local transport between Nong Khai or Thanaleng & Vientiane.

How to buy tickets     What are Thai trains like?     Map of train routes in SE Asia     Luggage & bikes     Hotels in Thailand

Children aged 0 to 3 and less than 100cm in height travel free, children aged 4 to 11 and under 150cm travel at half fare, children 12 years old and upwards (or over 150cm high) pay full fare.

Sole occupancy of a 1st class sleeper:  The 1st class fare is for travel in a shared 2-berth sleeper.  Sole occupancy is available for an extra 500 baht (£10 or $16).

Upper or lower berths?  The sleeper fares shown here are for a lower bunk, a narrower upper bunk is 50-100 baht less.  Non-air-con 2nd class sleepers (available on a few trains) cost 160-200 baht less than the air-con variety.  You can check fares at www.railway.co.th (see the advice on translating it here).

Train classes:

1 = 1st class sleepers.  S = 2nd class sleepers (air-conditioned).  s = 2nd class sleepers (non-air-con).  2 = 2nd class seats. 

3 = 3rd class seats.  R = Restaurant car.  DRC = Diesel Railcar express with 2nd class air-conditioned seats, meals included (but no sleepers).

* Recommended trains (express railcar by day or sleeper overnight).

How to buy tickets    What are Thai trains like?    Map of train routes in SE Asia    Luggage & taking bikes    Hotels in Thailand

Children aged 0 to 3 and less than 100cm in height travel free, children aged 4 to 11 and under 150cm travel at half fare, children 12 years old and upwards (or over 150cm high) pay full fare.  

Traveller Ian Craven from Sydney reports:  I recently travelled on the State Railways of Thailand on the Bangkok-Ubon run.  We took daytime train 21, the express diesel rail car, in 2nd class air conditioned seats.  We easily bought tickets the day before from a Bangkok travel agent for a very reasonable commission, about 50 baht.  The train consisted of only three cars, and predictably we were the only farang on board.  Train left just 5 minutes late, at 0550, and took at least an hour to get out of the suburbs of Bangkok, with the country eventually giving way to rice paddies as far as the eye can see; the train then climbs through some low hilly country with mainly teak plantations and orchards, and eventually gives way to a vast plain, again with rice predominate, along with sugar and banana’s, and all kinds of towns and villages, large and small.  The seating was very comfortable, the air con just right (not too cold which is often the case), and the service impeccable.  Despite a rather gruff visage, the conductor was in fact a very amiable fat controller, turned out in an immaculately pressed uniform.  The train even features a 'trolley dolly', who serves breakfast (croissant & sweet bun), water, orange juice, tea and coffee (why is railway coffee uniformly bad everywhere in the world?!) and lunch (like an airline pack featuring a small chicken curry and rice, and some kind of putrid fish that even the locals were poking at with disdain!).  All this comes included in the price of the ticket.  Train arrived in Ubon dead on time at 1410, despite some unscheduled stops along the way to let off passengers.  While it is certainly not one of the great train journeys of the world, it is not overly long and provides some excellent views of Thai rural life, and is a cheap, efficient and very effective way to get to the southern Lao PDR frontier.  I would highly recommend it to anyone. The international bus from Ubon-Pakse runs twice daily, about 3 hours, 200 baht.

	Above:  The morning train from Bangkok arrives at Aranyaprathet.  Photo courtesy of Michael Allsop.

Aranyaprathet, 255 km from Bangkok, is just 6 km from the Cambodian border post at Poiphet from where buses run to Siem Reap and Bttambang for onward bus or speedboat to Phnom Penh.  See the Cambodia page for information about onward bus transport to Phnom Penh & Seam Reap (for the Angkor Wat temples) in Cambodia, and about onwards bus transport from Phnom Penh to Saigon in Vietnam.  Trains 275-280 have 3rd class seats, but Thai 3rd class is quite clean and comfortable, and in fact a very pleasant way to travel, with vendors selling food, soft drinks and beer.  Train 279/280 is a diesel railcar.

	The infamous Bridge on the River Kwai...

See the Bridge on the River Kwai page for details...

The best way to reach Kanchanaburi is by train, using the infamous Death Railway itself, for just 100 baht (£2 or $3)!  A regular State Railways of Thailand passenger service still runs over the 'Death Railway' from Bangkok via Kanchanaburi as far as Nam Tok, crossing the famous 'Bridge over the River Kwai' a few km beyond Kanchanaburi.  There are two trains a day from Bangkok Thonburi station (also known as Bangkok Noi, on the West side of the river in Bangkok) to Kanchanaburi and Nam Tok, calling at River Kwai Bridge station on the Bangkok side of the Bridge a few minutes after Kan'buri.

The trains are 3rd class only, but don't let this put you off - they are clean and comfortable, and sitting next to an open window whilst clickety-clacking through the Thai countryside is easily the most pleasant way to reach Kanchanaburi.

If you're coming from Singapore, Malaysia or Southern Thailand, you can travel direct to Kanchanaburi and the River Kwai Bridge without going into Bangkok - just change trains at Nakhon Pathom (64 km south of Bangkok), where the branch line to Kanchanaburi leaves the main line.

There is also a special railcar (2nd class air-conditioned) for tourists at weekends, leaving Hualamphong station at 06:30 for Kanchanaburi at 09:25, Nam Tok 11:30, returning from Nam Tok at 14:40 and Kan'buri at 16:55 arriving Bangkok 19:30.  Special fares apply, reservation required, details here.

Sukhothai has no rail station, but you can take a comfortable train from Bangkok to Phitsanulok on the Bangkok-Chiang Mai main line, which is about 59 km from Sukhothai by bus.  Buses leave Phitsanulok for Sukhothai frequently between 07:00 and 19:00, fare around 40 baht or so, journey time 1 hour.  On arrival by train at Phitsanulok, simply ask one of the tuk-tuk taxis waiting outside the station to take you to the nearby bus station.  This train/bus combo avoids a nightmare 7 hours on a bus from Bangkok.  The 08:30 or 11:50 DRC express railcars from Bangkok would be a good choice to reach Phitsanulok, see here for train times.  Once capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom, the UNESCO-designated ruins are 12 km outside Sukhothai town, easily reached by local transport.

To reach Chiang Rai, first take a train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, see above for train times.  Ordinary (non-air-con) buses leave Chiang Mai Arcade bus station every hour or two from 06:00 to 17:30, journey time 3 hours 50 minutes, fare around 60 baht.  Air-conditioned buses also leave from Chiang Mai Arcade bus station every hour or so from 07:00 to 17:00, journey time 3 hours 10 minutes, fare 102 baht.  You'll find full details in the downloadable Thai timetable.

	Ayutthaya station, just 90 minutes from Bangkok by local train...

Ayutthaya is the ancient capital of Thailand, with impressive ruins and temples to visit.  It makes a great day trip from Bangkok, and it's really easy to get there by train.  There is a local train from Bangkok's main Hualamphong station to Ayutthaya roughly every hour or so with basic but clean 3rd class seats, taking a leisurely 1 hour 45 minutes for the 71 km (44 miles).  No reservation is necessary, just turn up, buy a ticket and hop on.  3rd class is not crowded outside peak times, and as a day tripper from Bangkok you'll be going in the opposite direction from the commuter crowds in any case.  It's a very pleasant way to get there, sitting next to an open window with a cool breeze blowing in, as the train clickety-clacks along, and you'll often find vendors selling soft drinks or beer on board.  See www.railway.co.th for exact train times if you really feel you need them.  The ruined capital is walking distance from the station.

You can also travel between Bangkok & Ayutthaya on a faster air-conditioned express train taking only 1 hour 15 minutes, but these are less frequent.  A reservation is necessary on express trains, but tickets to Ayutthaya on these trains are only sold on the day of travel at the station or online at www.thairailticket.com a maximum of 1 day ahead, you cannot pre-book more than 1 day ahead.  This is so that short-distance passengers to Ayutthaya don't take up seats that could be used by long-distance passengers.

Why not stop off at Ayutthaya on the way to or from Chiang Mai or Nong Khai, as trains between Bangkok and these destinations stop at Ayutthaya?  It's easiest to use 3rd class local trains for the Bangkok-Ayutthaya section rather than booking a seat on an express, as the local trains are cheaper, more frequent and no reservation is necessary.  Then see the Chiang Mai or Nong Khai timetable above for express train times Ayutthaya-Chiang Mai or Ayutthaya-Nong Khai.  Ayutthaya has a left luggage office (on the platform, marked 'Cloak Room') where you can stash your bags for a 10 baht fee between trains.

The Mahachai Mae Khlong Market Train...

You may have heard of a little train near Bangkok that runs right through the middle of a market.  This is the Bangkok - Mahachai - Mae Khlong Line, which runs within inches of the market stalls approaching its terminus at Samut Songkhram, some 70 km (45 miles) from Bangkok and known locally as Mae Khlong after the river on which it is situated.  In fact, it's not one rail line but two, separated by a ferry across the Tha Chin river in the middle.  These two lines are part of the State Railways of Thailand, but were originally built in 1905 as private lines and they are not physically linked to the rest of the network.  A trip to Mae Khlong makes an interesting trip from Bangkok if you've a day spare.  Watch this video to see the train pass through a busy market, when the train passes the market traders replace their canopies and you'd never know a train track was there...

Outward journey:  To reach Samut Songkhram, you first take a little silver diesel railcar from Bangkok's Wong Wian Yai station to Samut Sakhon, known locally as Mahachai.  Bangkok's Wong Wian Yai station is located on the west side of the Bangkok river, a 20 minute walk from the BTS Skytrain station at Wangwan Yai, see map of Bangkok showing stations.  Trains run from Bangkok Wong Wian Yai to Mahachai roughly every hour from 05:30 until 20:10, journey time around 59 minutes, 3rd class only, fare 10 baht, distance 31km (19 miles).  Most trains are non-air-conditioned with opening windows (better for photography), but you'll find some air-con cars on a few departures.  You then cross the Tha Chin river by ferry to Ban Laem, 3 baht.  On the other side, four trains a day run from Ban Laem to Samut Songkhram (Mae Khlong), departing 07:30, 10:10, 13:30, 16:40, journey time 1 hour, fare 10 baht, distance 33 km.

Return journey:  In the return direction, trains leave Samut Songkhram (Mae Khlong) at 06:20, 09:00, 11:30, 15:30 taking 1 hour to Ban Laem.  Cross the river by ferry from Ban Laem to Samut Sakhon (Mahachai).  Trains return from Samut Sakhon (Mahachai) to Bangkok every hour from 04:30 to 19:00.  See the downloadable timetable page 51 for a complete timetable.

For more information, photos and a video, see www.nomadicnotes.com/travel-blog/maeklong-market-railway-thailand-the-train-that-goes-through-a-market.  The trip makes an interesting excursion from Bangkok.

	Scenery between Bangkok & Surat Thani

There are plenty of good trains from Bangkok to southern Thailand, with connections by bus or ferry to Thailand's beaches and islands.  Sungai Kolok is on the frontier with Malaysia.  You can walk across the frontier and get a bus a few miles on to Kota Bharu.  The railway station for Kota Bharu is Wakaf Bahru (3 miles or so from Kota Bharu), from where there are daily trains to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur via the scenic 'Jungle Line', see the Malaysia page.  This route forms an interesting alternative to the more usual mainline route from Bangkok to KL and Singapore via Butterworth.

Train classes:

1 = 1st class sleepers.  S = 2nd class sleepers (air-conditioned).  s = 2nd class sleepers (non-air-con).  2 = 2nd class seats.  R = Restaurant car.

3 = 3rd class seats.  DRC = Diesel Railcar express with 2nd class air-conditioned seats, meals included (DRC trains have no sleepers).

* Recommended trains - express railcar by day, the best air-con sleepers overnight.   ** Only 2nd class sleepers run all the way to/from Butterworth.

How to buy tickets     What are Thai trains like?      Map of train routes in SE Asia      Luggage & bikes     Hotels in Thailand

Children aged 0 to 3 and less than 100cm in height travel free, children aged 4 to 11 and under 150cm travel at half fare, children 12 years old and upwards (or over 150cm high) pay full fare.

Sole occupancy of a 1st class sleeper:  The 1st class fare is for travel in a shared 2-berth sleeper.  Sole occupancy is available for an extra 500 baht (£10 or $16).

Upper or lower berth?  The sleeper fares shown here are for a lower berth, a narrower upper berth is 50-100 baht less.  Non-air-con 2nd class sleepers (available on a few trains) cost 160-200 baht less than the air-con variety.  You can check fares at www.railway.co.th (see the advice on translating it here).

Security warnings in Southern Thailand:  You may be aware of the security warnings for southern Thailand.  These primarily apply to the eastern end of the Malaysia-Thailand border around Yala & Sungai Kolok, where there is a risk of being in the wrong place at the wrong time if you were to hang around.  Bombs have gone off outside bars and police stations in Yala and Sungai Kolok, and the eastern Sungai Kolok-Yala-Hat Yai rail line has been affected on a number of occasions, so use this route with extreme care if at all.  However, the Bangkok-Hat Yai-Penang-Kuala Lumpur-Singapore main line passes through the border at the western end which isn't as badly affected.  Although I must make it clear that I'm no security expert, there are unlikely to be problems simply passing through a small part of the less-affected area non-stop on board a train via the main Singapore-KL-Penang-Hat Yai-Bangkok line via Padang Besar.  However, travellers should always take advice and be aware of the current situation.  I certainly don't claim to provide current security advice!

Bangkok to Ko Tao

Bangkok to Ko Tao by train+ferry, via Chumphon...

Simply take any train from Bangkok to Chumphon shown in the train times above, then hop on a ferry to Koh Tao, see the ferry times below.

Ferry operators:  LC = Lomprayah Catamaran (www.lomprayah.com);  KTC = Koh Tao Cruiser;  SEB = Songserm Express Boat (www.songserm-expressboat.com).

KJCF = Ko Jaroen Car Ferry; NB = Night Boat.  The Lomprayah Catamaran fare is 600 baht (£12 or $17) one-way.

These combined train & ferry fares include the Bangkok-Chumphon train, bus transfer from Chumphon railway station to pier and the ferry to Koh Tao.  They can be bought at Bangkok Hualamphong station or through the usual agencies such as www.thailandtrainticket.com.  Children aged 0 to 3 and less than 100cm in height travel free, children aged 4 to 11 and under 150cm travel at half fare, children 12 years old and upwards (or over 150cm high) pay full fare.  Find a hotel in Ko Tao.

Bangkok to Ko Tao by train+ferry, via Surat Thani...

The train-ferry connections actually work better via Surat Thani and Ko Samui, even though it's the long way round.  To travel from Bangkok to Ko Tao via Surat Thani, see the Bangkok to Ko Samui section below, looking for the Lomprayah ferry option.

Singapore, Malaysia to Koh Tao by train+ferry...

Travel by train from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, or Penang via Hat Yai to Surat Thani, see train times & info Singapore-Malaysia-Surat Thani.  Then hop on a daytime or overnight ferry from Surat Thani to Koh Tao, see the ferry times below.

Ferry operators:  NB = Night Boat.  Fare:  500 baht.  Tickets are sold at the pier.

You can check ferry times at www.kohtaoonline.com/timetable.htm.  There are also ferries from Koh Tao to Ko Samui, see www.seatranferry.com and look for Seatran Express.

	Train+ferry to Ko Samui:  A poster advertising the combined train & ferry service from Bangkok to Ko Samui.  An excellent way to get there!

Bangkok to Ko Samui by train + ferry...

It's easy to travel from Bangkok to Ko Samui or Ko Phangan using a combined train+ferry ticket.  It's the safe, comfortable & environmentally-friendly way to travel, too, far better than cramped buses or short-haul flights.  The overnight sleeper option takes no more time out of your holiday than flying and is a lot more fun, and far more of an experience.  Simply take a train from Bangkok to Surat Thani.  On arrival at Surat Thani railway station (located at Phun Phin, 14 km from Surat Thani town centre), shuttle buses meet the train and take you to the Don Sak ferry terminal 60 km east of Surat Thani.  The bus is included in the train+ferry fare.  Ferries sail every hour from Don Sak to Ko Samui, crossing time 1.5 hours, see the ferry information below.  Some ferries continue to Ko Phangan.  You can buy the combined train+ferry tickets at Bangkok Hualamphong station reservations office, or online for a small handling fee from www.thailandtrainticket.com.  Here is the recommended timetable via both the Raja and Lomprayah ferry companies.  Just pick whichever looks most convenient.

...via Lomprayah Ferry  (high-speed catamaran)

...via Raja Ferry  (conventional ferry)

Train classes:

1 = 1st class sleepers.  S = 2nd class sleepers (air-conditioned).  s = 2nd class sleepers (non-air-con).  2 = 2nd class seats.   3 = 3rd class seats.

R = Restaurant car.  DRC = Diesel Railcar express with 2nd class air-conditioned seats, meals included.

The ferries shown here are operated by Raja Ferry, leaving from Don Sak pier.  Others are operated by Seatran ferries from Ban Don pier.

How to buy tickets:  These combined train + ferry fares can be bought at Bangkok Hualamphong station or through an agency such as www.thailandtrainticket.com.  They cannot be booked online.  Children aged 0 to 3 and less than 100cm in height travel free, children aged 4 to 11 and under 150cm travel at half fare, children 12 years old and upwards (or over 150cm high) pay full fare.  Find a hotel in Ko Samui.

Singapore, Kuala Lumpur & Penang to Ko Samui...

Singapore, Kuala Lumpur & Penang ► Ko Samui

• Travel from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur on the morning air-conditioned train, see the Malaysia page for timetable & fares.  Spend the afternoon exploring KL.

• Travel from KL to Hat Yai by comfortable & convenient overnight sleeper train (train number 20) leaving Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station around 21:00 in the evening and arriving in Hat Yai around 10:30 next morning, see the Malaysia page for exact timetable & fares.  This train has safe & cosy Malaysian 2nd class sleepers.  The fare is RM 57 (£12 or $17) including a sleeper berth  and you can book the KL to Hat Yai train either by email or phone to the KTM call centre or online at the KTM website as explained here.

• Change trains in Hat Yai, taking an afternoon train to Surat Thani.  Buy the ticket for this at the station on the day.  There's a train around 14:45 arriving Surat Thani at 20:14.

• Coming from Penang, take the Georgetown to Butterworth ferry, then take train 36 just after lunch direct from Butterworth to Surat Thani arriving late at night, see the timetable below.

• You'll need to stay overnight and take a ferry next morning.  Surat Thani station is located at Phun Phin, 14km from Surat Thani town centre.  Shuttle buses run to the Don Sak ferry terminal just outside Surat Thani.  Ferries sail every hour to Ko Samui 06:00-19:00, crossing time 1.5 hours, see the ferry timetable information below. 

Ko Samui ► Penang, Kuala Lumpur & Singapore

• Take an afternoon or evening ferry from Ko Samui to Surat Thani, see the ferry timetable below.  Stay overnight in Surat Thani.

• Travel from Surat Thani to Hat Yai by morning train, there's one around 08:15 arriving Hat Yai at 12:50.  Buy the ticket at the station on the day or the day before.  Have lunch in Hat Yai.

• Travel from Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur by comfortable overnight sleeper train (train number 21, leaving Hat Yai at 16:00 and arriving at Kuala Lumpur Sentral at 05:30 next morning, see the Malaysia page for full details of times & fares.  It has safe & comfortable Malaysian 2nd class sleepers.  The fare is RM57 (£12 or $17) with 2nd class sleeper.  You can book the Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur train either at the station on the day or (preferably) in advance online at the Malaysian Railways website or by email or phone to the KTM call centre as explained here.

• If you're going to Penang, train 21 (which also has comfortable air-conditioned 2nd class seats) calls at the junction station Bukit Mertajam at 21:47.  Bukit Mertajam is 11km from Butterworth by taxi, then take the frequent all-night ferry to Georgetown, Penang.

• Travel from KL to Singapore by train, see the Malaysia page for timetable & fares.

Surat Thani to Ko Samui ferry information...

Several ferry companies operate from Surat Thani to Ko Samui, including the Seatran ferry (hourly sailings, 1.5 hour crossing), the Songserm express catamaran (1 hour crossing, 2 daily sailings), and the Songserm overnight boat.

You can check ferry times and fares at www.seatranferry.com.  The ferry fare is 110 baht (£2 or $3) one-way.  A combined bus+ferry ticket from Surat Thani railway station to Ko Samui costs about 250 baht (£5 or $7).  The Songserm overnight boat can be useful if you arrive in Surat Thani after the last Seatran ferry.  It sails from the Ban Don ferry pier close to central Surat Thani at 23:00, and arrives Ko Samui 05:00.  Upper deck tickets give you a mattress and pillow, the lower deck just has straw mats.

For ferries from Ko Samui to Koh Tao, see www.seatranferry.com.

	Train & bus from Bangkok to Phuket:  Take the comfortable sleeper train from Bangkok to Surat Thani, then a bus to Phuket.

Bangkok to Phuket by train & bus...

Taking train+bus from Bangkok to Phuket is the comfortable & environmentally-friendly way to go, avoiding a gruelling 14-16 hour overnight bus journey in a cramped bus seat or an unnecessary short-haul flight.  You simply take the comfy overnight sleeper train from Bangkok to Surat Thani, and next morning hop on an air-conditioned bus from Surat Thani to Phuket taking around 4-6 hours.

The buses which accept the combined train+bus tickets are modern air-conditioned buses run by The Phantip Company, www.phantiptravel.com.  There are actually around 14 buses a day from Surat Thani to Phuket between 05:00 & 17:30, run by various operators.  If you buy separate train and bus tickets, the bus fare is around 220 Baht (£5).  Phantip also operate an hourly minibus service between Surat Thani station and Phuket 06:00-17:00, fare 220 baht, journey 4 hours.

Train classes:

1 = 1st class sleepers.  S = 2nd class sleepers (air-conditioned).  s = 2nd class sleepers (non-air-con).  2 = 2nd class seats.  3 = 3rd class seats.

R = Restaurant car.  DRC = Diesel Railcar express with 2nd class air-conditioned seats, meals included.

* Minibus, not big bus, also operated by www.phantiptravel.com.

How to buy tickets:  These combined train + bus fares can be bought at Bangkok Hualamphong station or through a reputable agency such as www.thailandtrainticket.com.  They cannot be bought online.  Children aged 0 to 3 and less than 100cm in height travel free, children aged 4 to 11 and under 150cm travel at half fare, children 12 years old and upwards (or over 150cm high) pay full fare.  Bus tickets to Phuket can also be bought at Surat Thani rail station for 220 baht each way.  Find a hotel in Phuket.

Singapore, Kuala Lumpur & Penang to Phuket by train+bus...

Singapore, Kuala Lumpur & Penang ► Phuket

• Travel from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur on the morning air-conditioned train, see the Malaysia page for timetable & fares.  Spend the afternoon exploring KL.

• Travel from Kuala Lumpur to Hat Yai by comfortable & convenient overnight train (train number 20) leaving Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station around 21:00 in the evening and arriving in Hat Yai around 10:30 next morning, see the Malaysia page for exact timetable & fares.  This train has safe & cosy Malaysian 2nd class sleepers.  The fare is RM 57 (£12 or $17) including a sleeper berth  and you can book the KL to Hat Yai train either by email or phone to the KTM call centre or online at the KTM website as explained here.  On arrival at the railway station, take a tuk-tuk to the bus terminal.

• Travel from Hat Yai to Phuket by minibus or air-conditioned bus.  Minibuses take 6 hours, fare around 350 baht.  1st class air-con buses take 7½  hours, fare around 344 baht.  For example, buses run by Sritrang Tour leave Hat Yai bus station at 05:45, 07:45, 08:45, 09:30, 10:05, fare around 344 Baht (£7).  Minibuses leave Hat Yai for Phuket regularly, and are probably the best bet for a connection off the train from KL.  You'll find plenty of people trying to sell you minibus tickets at the station when you get off the train.

• Coming from Penang, take the frequent Georgetown to Butterworth ferry, then take train 36 just after lunch direct from Butterworth to Hat Yai arriving early evening, see the timetable below.

• Traveller David Maddox reports:  "There are many people trying to sell you the minibus tickets to Phuket when you get off the train at Hat Yai.  We went to two places. One pressured us into its shop and was asking for 650 Baht per person. If you walk out of the train station in Hat Yai and turn left and walk down past several restaurants and in one of the last buildings is a tour company that only charges 400 Baht (£8 or $13) per person and our bus was only locals.  The minibus left from outside the agency, right near the station."

Phuket ► Penang, Kuala Lumpur & Singapore

• Travel from Phuket to Hat Yai by bus or minibus.  1st class air-conditioned buses run by Sritrang Tour leave Phuket for Hat Yai at 07:30, 08:30, 09:30, 11:30, 12:30, 19:30 & 21:30 (double-check exact bus times and companies locally), journey 7½ hours, fare 344 Baht (£7).  You can buy bus tickets from any local Phuket travel agency.  Minibuses also run regularly from Phuket to Hat Yai, journey time 6 hours, fare around 350 baht.  A minibus and an early start may be the best bet for a connection in Hat Yai with the sleeper train to KL.  On arrival at the bus terminal in Hat Yai, take a tuk-tuk to the railway station.

• Travel from Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur by comfortable overnight sleeper train (train number 21, leaving Hat Yai station at 16:00 and arriving at Kuala Lumpur Sentral at 05:30 next morning, see the Malaysia page for full details of times & fares.  It has safe & comfortable Malaysian 2nd class sleepers.  The fare is RM57 (£12 or $17) with 2nd class sleeper.  You can book the Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur train either at the station on the day or (preferably) in advance online at the Malaysian Railways website or by email or phone to the KTM call centre as explained here.

• If you're going to Penang, train 21 (which also has comfortable air-conditioned 2nd class seats) calls at the junction station Bukit Mertajam at 21:47.  Bukit Mertajam is 11km from Butterworth by taxi, then take the frequent all-night ferry to Georgetown, Penang.

• Travel from KL to Singapore by train, see the Malaysia page for timetable & fares.

Ko Phi Phi...

A ferry links Phuket and Ko Phi Phi.  The ferry sails from Phuket at 08:30 and 13:30, and from Ko Phi Phi at   09:00 and 14:00.  Crossing time 90 minutes.

Bangkok to Krabi

Bangkok to Krabi by train + bus...

Krabi hasn't got a railway station, but it's easy to get there using a comfortable train to Surat Thani (or coming up from the south, a train to Hat Yai) and then an air-conditioned bus for the last leg.  Using the overnight sleeper train from Bangkok, the train+bus to Krabi takes no more time out of your holiday than flying, but is a lot more interesting, cheaper, and far more environmentally friendly.  You're likely to find a number of buses to Krabi waiting at Surat Thani station after the arrival of your train.  The bus fare is about 220 baht (£4.50 or $7), the journey time from Surat Thani to Krabi is about 3 hours, but you can buy combined train+bus tickets from Bangkok to Krabi.  Here's the recommended timetable for through train+bus journeys:

 Combined train + bus fare Combined train+bus fare: 1st class sleeper  a/c express train  2nd class sleeper  a/c express train Bangkok to Phuket 1,589 (£32) 1,018 (£21).

Train classes:

1 = 1st class sleepers.  S = 2nd class sleepers (air-conditioned).  s = 2nd class sleepers (non-air-con).  2 = 2nd class seats.  3 = 3rd class seats.

R = Restaurant car.  DRC = Diesel Railcar express with 2nd class air-conditioned seats, meals included.

The buses shown here which accept the combined train+bus tickets are modern air-conditioned buses run by The Phantip Company, www.phantiptravel.com.  They in fact run up to 12 daily buses between Surat Thani station and Krabi, see www.phantiptravel.com.

How to buy tickets:  These combined train & bus fares can be bought in person at Bangkok Hualamphong station or by email through the usual agencies such as www.thailandtrainticket.com.  Children aged 0 to 3 and less than 100cm in height travel free, children aged 4 to 11 and under 150cm travel at half fare, children 12 years old and upwards (or over 150cm high) pay full fare.   Bus tickets to Krabi can also be bought at Surat Thani rail station for 170 baht each way.  Find a hotel in Krabi.

Singapore & Kuala Lumpur to Krabi by train+bus...

Northbound, Singapore & Kuala Lumpur to Krabi:  Travel on the morning train from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur and spend the afternoon exploring KL.  Then take the comfortable & convenient overnight train (train number 20) leaving Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station around 21:00 in the evening and arriving in Hat Yai around 10:30 next morning, see the Malaysia page for exact timetable & fares.  This train has safe & cosy Malaysian 2nd class sleepers.  The fare is RM 57 including a sleeper berth (£12 or $17) and you can book the KL to Hat Yai train either by email or phone to the KTM call centre or online at the KTM website as explained here.  Then take a bus or minibus from Hat Yai to Krabi.  Minibuses leave Hat Yai for Krabi regularly, journey time 4 hours, fare around 300 baht (£6 or $9), probably the best bet for a connection off the train from KL.  You'll find plenty of people trying to sell you minibus tickets at the station when you get off the train.

Southbound, Krabi to Kuala Lumpur & Singapore:  Minibuses run regularly from Krabi to Hat Yai, journey time 4 hours, fare around 300 baht (£6 or $9).  A direct train (train number 21, see the Malaysia page for exact timetable & fares) leaves Hat Yai at 16:00 and arrives in Kuala Lumpur Sentral Station around 05:30 next morning, with safe & comfortable Malaysian 2nd class sleepers.  Change in KL for onward trains to Singapore.  Buy your bus ticket locally in Phuket.  You can book the Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur train either at the station, by email or phone to the KTM call centre, or online at the KTM (Malaysian Railways) website as explained here.

It's remarkably easy, safe, and comfortable to travel from Bangkok to Malaysia & Singapore by train.  The whole 1,920 km (1,233 miles) trip costs just £33 or US$ 50 one-way, including sleepers, a real bargain.  It's the environmentally sound way to travel, too.  Trains are daily, and you change trains in either Hat Yai & Kuala Lumpur or Butterworth (Penang) & Kuala Lumpur.  If done all in one go, the complete journey from Bangkok to Singapore takes two nights, though you can stop off wherever you like for as long as you like.  I'd suggest stopping off at least in Penang and KL.  Map of train routes in Southeast Asia.

The daily International Express links Bangkok & Butterworth (linked by frequent ferry to Penang island) in less than 24 hours, with modern air-conditioned 2nd class sleeping-cars of the Thai railways.  A Thai restaurant car (pictured right) runs between Bangkok and Hat Yai, serving dinner & breakfast.  From Butterworth to Kuala Lumpur there is a daily overnight sleeper train or two daytime trains.  From KL to Singapore there is a choice of 2 daytime & one overnight sleeper train.

How to read the timetable below:  Each column is a separate train, and you read downwards.  So for example, in the second column you see that train number 35, with 2nd class sleepers, runs daily, leaving Bangkok at 14:45, and arriving Butterworth (for the Penang Ferry) at 13:51 next day.  You could change trains at Hat Yai onto train 21, shown two columns to the right.  Or you could stay on till Butterworth, spend the afternoon seeing Penang, then catch train 23 to KL from there.  You can book any train between any two stations, on any date you like.  It's up to you.  How to buy tickets.

x = many other trains links these stations, see the Bangkok to Southern Thailand timetable below.

Classes...

L = Premier Deluxe sleeper, 1 or 2-bed compartments with private shower & toilet, air-conditioned.

F = 1st class (Premier Night) sleeper, 2-bed compartments with washbasin (not Hat Yai to Butterworth).

S = 2nd class (Standard Night) sleepers, upper & lower berths with curtains for privacy, air-conditioned.

1 = 1st class (Premier) seats.  Quite luxurious, air-conditioned.

2 = 2nd class (Superior) seats.  Comfortable, air-conditioned.

3 = 3rd class (Economy) seats.  Modern & comfortable but basic.

* = Train 20/21 by-passes Butterworth, but going north train 20 calls at Bukit Mertajam at 04:19, going south train 21 calls at Bukit Mertajam at 21:47.  Bukit Mertajam is a small station about 11 miles from Butterworth by bus or taxi, see location map.

** = Only one 2nd class sleeper & one 2nd class seats car runs to/from Hat Yai.  Most of this train including the 1st class sleepers only runs between Kuala Lumpur & Padang Besar.  If travelling to or from Hat Yai, the comfy 2nd class sleepers are fine, forget about 1st class.

See the notes by train number below.       How to buy tickets       Map of Singapore showing location of Woodlands station

Fares
The cost of a Bangkok-Singapore train journey is the sum of 3 separate train tickets.  Just add them up!
1.  Bangkok to Butterworth (Penang)	1,161 km	1,210 (£24 or  $35) in 2nd class sleeper (only 2nd class sleepers available).
2.  Butterworth (Penang) to Kuala Lumpur	388 km	About 40 Ringgit (£7, $14) one-way in a 2nd class open-plan sleeper.
3.  Kuala Lumpur to Singapore	397 km	About 34 Ringgit (£6 or $12) in a 2nd class seat or 68 Ringgit (£13 or $25) in 1st class on a daytime express.  For sleeper fares on the overnight train, see the Malaysia page.

Children aged 0 to 3 and less than 100cm in height travel free, children aged 4 to 11 and under 150cm travel at half fare, children 12 years old and upwards (or over 150cm high) pay full fare.

The International Express (train 35/36) from Bangkok to Butterworth (for Penang)...

This is train 35/36 from Bangkok at Butterworth (Penang).		By night, upper & lower berths, each with curtains for privacy...

The cars are open-plan, with bays of seats either side of the aisle.		By day, a pair of spacious armchairs for two people, very civilised...

A restaurant car is attached between Hat Yai and Bangkok.  The food is remarkably cheap and good, a set meal costs around 180-200 baht (£4 or $6).  You choose from a leaflet with both pictures and English captions.  Beer is also readily available and not expensive.  See sample menu
Air-conditioned restaurant on train 35 from Bangkok to Hat Yai.		The seafood dinner, 200 baht (£4 or $6).

Onwards from Butterworth to Kuala Lumpur & Singapore by Malaysian Railways (KTM)...

2nd class seats on a the Ekspres Rakyat, train 1, from Butterworth to Kuala Lumpur & Singapore...		Above, the Ekspres Rakyat from Butterworth to Kuala Lumpur & Singapore calls at a wayside station.

See the Malaysia page for details of Malaysian train fares, and what Malaysian trains are like.

Do I need a reservation? 

Yes.  All long-distance express trains in Thailand & Malaysia are 'reservation obligatory', so you will need a seat or berth reservation for each train you take.  Reservations open one month before departure.  A Bangkok to Singapore journey involves three trains and will be ticketed as three separate train journeys, either Bangkok-Hat Yai, Hat Yai-Kuala Lumpur and KL to Singapore, or Bangkok to Butterworth, Butterworth to KL, KL to Singapore.  Each ticket will have your date of departure, the train number and your seat or berth number printed on it.

Can I stop off along the way?

Yes, of course!  But you cannot buy an open ticket and randomly hop on and off trains without a reservation.  All express trains in Thailand & Malaysia are 'reservation compulsory', so you need to buy a separate ticket (which will include a reservation on a specific train) for each individual train journey you make, for the specific date you want to make it.  You can arrange all your tickets in advance or buy them as you go, keeping your options open, it's entirely up to you.  Penang and Kuala Lumpur are both well worth a stopover.

How to buy Bangkok to Singapore tickets...

You need a separate ticket for each of the two or three trains involved in this journey.  To spell it out, if you choose to change at Butterworth & KL, this means booking (1) a sleeper ticket for the Bangkok-Butterworth 'International Express', (2) another sleeper ticket for the Butterworth-KL overnight train, and (3) a KL-Singapore ticket either for one of the two daytime express trains or for the overnight sleeper.  If you choose to change at Hat Yai & KL, you need (1) a Bangkok-Hat Yai ticket on one of the several overnight trains, (2) a ticket for the Hat Yai-KL direct sleeper, and (3) a ticket for one of the two daytime trains or the overnight sleeper from KL to Singapore.  Penang is a wonderful historic city for a stopover, even if that's just an afternoon between trains, so I'd suggest changing at Butterworth (the station for Penang) rather than Hat Yai.

Step 1 is to book a sleeper on the International Express from Bangkok to Butterworth, either at the reservation office at Bangkok Hualamphong station when you get there, or by email with Thai Railways, or through one of the reputable Thai travel agencies recommended above.

Step 2 is to buy your onward Butterworth-KL & KL-Singapore tickets.  You must buy these separately, as reservations for trains within Malaysia are held on the Malaysian Railways (KTM) computer reservation system which is not accessible by Thai station reservations offices or Thai travel agencies.  So either wait till you get to Butterworth and buy your onward tickets at the station there (but be warned that if you're travelling straight through without a stopover you may find the sleepers on the Butterworth-KL train sold out for that evening's departure), or (probably the better option) book your Butterworth-KL and KL-Singapore trains online at the Malaysian Railways website, www.ktmb.com.my.  Look for 'e-ticketing'.  You pay by credit card and either print out your ticket on your PC printer or pick up tickets at the station in Malaysia.  Remember that reservations only open 60 days before departure.  You can't book before reservations open!  If you have any difficulty booking online, you can book by email with KTM's call centre, via callcenter@ktmb.com.my, who should reply within 3 days.  If all else fails, call KTM reservations on +60 3 2267 1200.

How to buy northbound Singapore to Bangkok tickets...

See the Malaysia page for information on how to book a northbound journey from Singapore to Bangkok

Security warnings for parts of southern Thailand...

If crossing into Thailand, you should be aware of the security warnings for some parts of southern Thailand.  These apply mainly to the eastern end of the Thailand-Malaysia border around Yala & Sungai Kolok, covering the provinces of Pattani, Yala, Narathiwat and to a lesser extent Songkhla.  The terrorists aren't targeting western travellers, but in these provinces, bombs have gone off outside bars and police stations, and the rail lines to Yala and Sungai Kolok have been affected on a number of occasions (see map).  However, the main rail line from Bangkok to Singapore passes through the largely-unaffected western end of the Thailand-Malaysia border via Padang Besar.  It does not pass through any part of Pattani, Yala or Narathiwat provinces, there's just a relatively short 80 km (50 mile) stretch through the northern part of Songkhla province via Hat Yai.  I must emphasise that travellers should always take advice and be aware of the latest situation, I certainly don't claim to provide current security advice, your decision is entirely your own.  But purely for myself, whilst I would not visit Sungai Kolok or Yala, I would not worry unduly about passing swiftly through 50 miles of the northern part of Songkhla Province on a direct train on the Singapore-Bangkok main line.

Bangkok to Singapore by luxury train:

The Eastern & Oriental Express  www.orient-expresstrains.com

There is one other option for train travel between Bangkok, Butterworth & Singapore...  This is the luxurious 'Eastern & Oriental Express' which runs direct once, twice or three times per month between these cities.  It's operated by Venice Simplon Express Limited, and uses sleeping-cars originally built in Japan for the New Zealand Railways Wellington-Auckland 'Silver Star' sleeper train (1972-1979).  However, a one-way ticket even from Butterworth to Bangkok costs at least £700, compared with the £22 charged for travel in a sleeper on the daily International Express (although admittedly, meals on the International Express are extra!).  If you're interested, visit www.orient-expresstrains.com.  UK companies such as Great Rail Journeys (www.greatrail.com) offer inclusive escorted tours to Malaysia and Thailand, using the Eastern & Oriental Express.

For train & bus travel from Bangkok to Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, & Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), see the Train travel in Cambodia page.

London to Thailand overland

If you have the time (we're talking a minimum of 3 weeks one-way), you can travel from London to Bangkok overland.  The links below cover travel in either direction, from London or to London:

• Step 1:  London to Moscow by train.  Daily departures, 2 nights, from about £160 one-way with sleeper.  Spend at least 1 night in Moscow.

• Step 2:  Moscow to Beijing by Trans-Siberian Railway  Two trains a week, 6 nights, from about $450 one-way in 4-bed sleeper.  Spend at least 1 night in Beijing.

• Step 3:  Beijing to Hanoi by train Two trains a week, 2 nights, about $150 or £75 one-way in soft sleeper.  Spend at least 1 night in Hanoi.

• Step 4:  Hanoi to Saigon by train  Several trains daily, 2 nights.  Why not stop off to see Hue or Hoi An?  About $80 or £40 one-way in soft sleeper.

• Step 5:  Saigon-Phnom Penh by bus Daily, 1 day.  Spend at least 1 night in PP.

• Step 6:  Phnom Penh-Battambang by train or bus, bus to the frontier, train to Bangkok.

There aren't any travel agencies who can arrange the whole trip, so you will need to plan it out and arrange each stage of the journey yourself.  It's an exercise in project management!  Unless time is absolutely no object, you should book the key sections in advance through various travel agencies, for example, book London-Moscow through a UK European train ticketing agency such as DB's UK office or europeanrail.com, then book Moscow-Beijing & Beijing-Hanoi through a local Russian agency such as Svezhy Veter or www.realrussia.co.uk.  Tickets for other parts of the trip, for example, Hanoi-Saigon-Phnom Penh-Bangkok can all be bought locally, as you go along.  You'll need to pre-arrange visas for Belarus, Russia, possibly Mongolia, China & Vietnam, and in many ways complying with the various visa requirements (and in some cases, requirements for confirmed onward tickets to be held) is actually the biggest hassle, not buying the tickets for the trains, so check this out carefully using the relevant embassy websites.

Where do you start?  First, read through the seat61 pages linked above.  Then sketch out your itinerary using a simple spreadsheet like this, deciding where and for how long you want to stop off.  Next, check out the visa situation for each country.  Finally, follow the advice on each seat61 page to buy tickets for each train journey that you want to pre-book.

Recommended guidebooks

Make sure you take a good guidebook.  Easily the best guidebooks for the independent traveller are the Lonely Planets and Rough Guides.  Both have stacks of practical information plus historical and cultural background.  You won't regret buying either one of these guides! 

Buy at Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.com...

Alternatively, you can download just the chapters or areas you need in .PDF format from the Lonely Planet Website, from around £2.99 or US$4.95 a chapter.

Find hotels in Thailand

Hotels in Bangkok, Chiang Mai & other cities in Thailand & Southeast Asia...

Other hotel sites worth trying...

• www.tripadvisor.com is the place to find independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.

• www.booking.com is my own preferred hotel booking system (Hotels Combined being a search/comparison system).  It has a simple interface, a good selection in most countries worldwide, useful online customer reviews of each hotel, and decent prices, usually shown inclusive of unavoidable extras such as taxes (a pet hate of mine is systems that show one price, then charge you another!).

Backpacker hostels...

• www.hostelbookers.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelbookers offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

Flights to Bangkok

Use Skyscanner to compare flight prices & routes worldwide across 600 airlines...

Lounge passes...

Make the airport experience a little more bearable with a VIP lounge pass, it's not as expensive as you think!  See www.loungepass.com

Travel insurance

Get travel insurance, it's essential...

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash (up to a limit) and belongings.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year (I have an annual policy myself).  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

In the UK, try Columbus Direct or use Confused.com to compare prices & policies from many different insurers.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65 (no age limit), see www.JustTravelCover.com.

        If you're resident in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct's other websites.

    If you're resident in the USA or Canada, try Travel Guard USA.

Get a spare credit card, designed for foreign travel with no currency exchange loading & low or no ATM fees...

It costs nothing to take out an extra credit card.  If you keep it in a different part of your luggage so you're not left stranded if your wallet gets stolen, this is a form of extra travel insurance in itself.  In addition, some credit cards are significantly better for overseas travel than others.  Martin Lewis's www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-travel-money explains which UK credit cards have the lowest currency exchange commission loadings when you buy something overseas, and the lowest cash withdrawal fees when you use an ATM abroad.  Taking this advice can save you quite a lot on each trip compared to using your normal high-street bank credit card!

You can avoid ATM charges and expensive exchange rates with a Caxton FX euro currency Visa Card, or their multi-currency 'Global Traveller' Visa Card, see www.caxtonfx.com for info.

Get an international SIM card...

Mobile phones can cost a fortune to use abroad, and if you're not careful you can return home to find some huge bills waiting for you.  I've known people run up a £1,000 bill in data charges just by leaving their iPhone connected during a simple trip to Europe.  However, if you buy a global SIM card for your mobile phone from a company such as www.Go-Sim.com you can slash the cost by up to 85% and limit any damage to the amount you have pre-paid.  It cuts call costs in 175 countries worldwide, and you can receive incoming calls and texts for free in 75 countries.  It's pay-as-you-go, so no nasty bills when you get home.  It also works for laptop or PDA data access.  A Go-Sim account and any credit on it doesn't expire if it's not between trips, unlike some others, so a Go-Sim phone number becomes your 'global phone number' for life.