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The Shosholoza Meyl long-distance passenger trains are perhaps South Africa's best-kept travel secret and an unbelievable bargain.  Comfortable, cheap & perfectly safe, they link major cities including Johannesburg, Cape Town, Port Elizabeth and Durban.  They're a great way to travel as they let you see South Africa comfortably & affordably at ground level, without spending whole days & nights in a bus seat, or spending a fortune on expensive tourist experiences like the Blue Train or Rovos Rail, or flying and missing everything.  They are run by Shosholoza Meyl (www.shosholozameyl.co.za), originally part of South African Railways (Spoornet) and now a division of the Passenger Rail Authority of South Africa (PRASA, www.sarcc.co.za).  'Shosholoza Meyl' means 'pleasant experience'.  The the Shosholoza Meyl name was launched in 2001 along with newly-refurbished brightly-coloured sleeping-cars.  In 2006, Shosholoza Meyl split its trains into two separate types:  Tourist class trains consist exclusively of sleeping cars (2 & 4-berth compartments) and a restaurant car serving full meals, snacks, beer and wine.  The sleepers even have hot showers at the end of the corridor!  Economy class trains consist of sitter class seats and sometimes a restaurant car.

You can check Shosholoza Meyl train times (though not usually fares) at www.shosholozameyl.co.za.  The timetables below now show what is reported as the current timetable as at July 2011.

1.  Cape Town - Johannesburg

* Pretoria:  Shosholoza Meyl & Premier Classe trains no longer run through to/from Pretoria, since May 2006 they start/finish their journey at Johannesburg.  Remember that Johannesburg city centre isn't safe for visitors, although Johannesburg Park Station itself has security and is well-patrolled & secure.  Be very careful if you walk outside the station.  It's recommended that you pre-book a car or taxi to pick you up at Jo'burg station when you arrive, and when leaving again, take a taxi or car to the station entrance.  Pretoria is a safer city to use as a base when visiting the Jo'burg area.  You will soon be able to travel between Johannesburg Park Station and Pretoria via the suburb of Sandton, using the safe new Gautrain network.

Fares   How to buy tickets   What are the trains like?   Are these trains safe?  Yes they are!   Cape Town to Johannesburg is 1,530 kilometres or 956 miles.

Fares   How to buy tickets   What are the trains like?   Are these trains safe?  Yes they are!

2.  Johannesburg - Durban

* = The Premier Classe train will be scaled down to last Friday of the month as from October 2011.

** = The Premier Classe train will be scaled down to the Sunday after the last Friday of the month as from October 2011.

Johannesburg-Durban trains pass the spot near Estcourt where in 1899 young war correspondent Winston Churchill was taken prisoner by the Boers when the British armoured train he was with was derailed.  They call at Pietermaritzburg (PMB), the station where Mahatma Ghandi was thrown off a train in 1893.  Not just transportation, but a bit of history!

Fares   How to buy tickets   What are the trains like?   Safety on board   Johannesburg to Durban is 722 kilometres or 451 miles.

3. Johannesburg - Port Elizabeth

Fares   How to buy tickets   What are the trains like?   Are these trains safe?  Yes they are!   Johannesburg to Pt Elizabeth is 1,112 kilometres or 695 miles.

Train times for other Shosholoza Meyl routes, including Johannesburg to East London, Messina and Komatipoort (for Maputo in Mozambique).

How much does it cost?

What are Shosholoza Meyl Tourist Class trains like?

Sleeping-cars:   The sleeping-cars have 4-berth rooms called 'compartments' and smaller 2-berth rooms known as 'coupés'.  The berths convert to seating for daytime use.  Each compartment has basic leatherette bench seats which convert to bunks at night, and a washbasin with hot and cold water.  Bedding is provided for a small extra charge (40 Rand, about £3.50) and expertly made up for you in the evening by the train attendant.  Each sleeping-car has a hot shower at the end of the corridor, with lockable shower cubicle & changing area - bring your own soap & towel.  The coaches are not air-conditioned, so the windows open for a superb view of the countryside.  A metal mesh screen is provided for use at night to allow cool air.  Berth numbers aren't specified on your ticket or allocated when you book.  Instead, reservation lists are posted at the departure station telling you your car car and berth number.  As far as is possible, two passengers travelling together will be booked into a 2-berth coupé, a solo traveller will normally be booked into a 4-berth compartment with passengers of the same sex.  The price is the same.  If you pay for two tickets (quite affordable, given the fare) you can have sole occupancy of a coupé.  The whole train is all non-smoking.

2-berth 'coupé' sleeper, with berths folded away and washbasin covered...		The Shosholoza Meyl Tourist Class train to Cape Town about to leave Johannesburg...  All the scenery of the famous Blue train at a tenth of the price!  Photos courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

4-berth 'compartment' sleeper, with washbasin covered by the small table and one upper berth folded away...		There is a toilet and a shower with plenty of hot water at the end of the sleeper corridor.

Restaurant car exterior, at Johannesburg station...		A cooked breakfast...		Dinner in the diner...
Restaurant car:  There's a restaurant car serving snacks, drinks and affordable complete meals.  A full English breakfast (35 Rand) hits the spot in the morning, and beer and a wine list is available for something to go with you lunch or dinner.  The food is not expensive, even by South African standards.  Restaurant car staff also come down the train to sell tea and coffee to you at your seat.  Catering was originally sub-contracted to caterers such as BJ's, the South African equivalent of Wimpy, though is now back in-house.  Recent video of dining in Shosholoza Meyl restaurant car.  Photos courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

What are Shosholoza Meyl Economy Class Trains like?

'Sitter' class seating on an economy class train...

'Sitter' class seating: Economy trains have basic seating, which does not convert to berths.  Fine for daytime journeys, but not generally recommended for visitors on overnight trips unless you're prepared to rough it.  Sitter class coach layout.  Most trains also have a restaurant or refreshment car.

How to buy tickets...

1. Buy tickets online at www.shosholozameyl.co.za...

The best way to book Shosholoza Meyl trains is online at the official Shosholoza Meyl website, www.shosholozameyl.co.za.  This system will book sleeper or sitter tickets for almost all Shosholoza Meyl routes, including Johannesburg to Cape Town or Cape Town to Johannesburg.   You pay online by credit card and can collect your ticket at the station any time until departure.  Seat61 users are already reporting success with this new system. Here are some tips for using it:

• Bookings open 90 days before departure, you can't book before reservations open.  But I recommend reserving as early as you can, as some trains leave with all sleeper berths fully booked, especially the tourist class train from Cape Town to Johannesburg.

• Go to www.shosholozameyl.co.za and click 'Book and Pay Online' and this opens up their booking system.  Here's a direct link: https://res.prasa.com/shosholozaonline/PassengerBooking/BookAndPay.aspx. 

• Important: This being Africa, of course, at the time of writing there's an error in the data which means this system cannot be used to book Johannesburg to Durban or Durban to Johannesburg trains until they fix it.  But do give it a go, and let me know if it works!

• On the booking page, change 'Economy' to 'Sleeper' then wait patiently for the lower drop-down box to re-populate to 'Family'. 

• Now change 'Family' to 'Male' or 'Female' if you're travelling on your own and are happy to share a sleeper.

• Alternatively, if there's two of you I recommend 'Rent a coupé' (Coupé = 2-bed sleeper) and change 'Number of seats' to '2'.  If there's 3 or 4 of you, you can select 'Rent a compartment' (Compartment = 4-bed sleeper) and 'Number of seats' 3 or 4 .  For sole occupancy of a coupé, select 'Rent a coupé' and buy two tickets.  'Group' means 10 or more people.

• On the payment page, leave 'Reference ID' blank.  Further down, 'ID Number' means passport number.  You pay by credit card and can collect your ticket at the station any time until departure.

• Your ticket will not show your coach or berth number, but a passenger list showing which berth is allocated to which passenger is posted in a glass case at the station about an hour before departure.

• Feedback would be welcome, especially if you spot they solve the Durban problem!

2. Buy tickets via reputable travel agency African Sun Travel, www.shosholoza-meyl.co.za...

If the official Shosholoza Meyl online booking system doesn't work for you, the easiest way to buy tickets for Shosholoza Meyl trains from outside South Africa is to order online from travel agency African Sun Travel via their website www.shosholoza-meyl.co.za.  Just be aware that in spite of their website address, this is not Shosholoza Meyl themselves, but a travel agency.  African Sun travel charge a R90 (£8, $14) fee on top of the official price for Cape Town to Jo'burg tickets, R60 (£6 or $9) for Jo'burg to Durban.

3. Buy tickets in person or by phone on 086 000 8888  (from outside SA call + 27 11 7744 555).

Call Shosholoza Meyl reservations on 086 000 8888 or buy tickets in person at any station reservation office.  From outside South Africa, call + 27 11 7744 555.  Bookings open 90 days before departure.  Reservations are computerised, so any reservation office can book any journey in South Africa.  When booking by phone, you will be given a booking reference number, and you must collect and pay for your tickets at a station within 2 days.  Your ticket will not show your coach or berth number, but a passenger list showing which berth is allocated to which passenger is posted in a glass case at the station about an hour before departure.

Security on Shosholoza Meyl trains:  Not a problem!

Shosholoza Meyl tourist class trains are perfectly safe to travel on, and can even be recommended for families and women travelling alone.  Sleeping compartments have both a normal lock and a security lock which cannot be opened from the outside, and the train manager and his assistants do a good job looking after their passengers.  People who tell you that 'trains in South Africa are unsafe' have probably never been on one, and are confusing these excellent and safe Shosholoza Meyl trains with the suburban Metro trains around the big cities which they see adversely reported on South African TV.  It goes without saying that the high-end Premier Classe and Blue Train services are very safe, too.

Safety at Johannesburg's Park Station...

The long-distance trains themselves are very safe, and Johannesburg's Park Station itself is well-patrolled with security guards & CCTV.  However, the streets surrounding Park Station in downtown Johannesburg are definitely not safe, so arrange a car to drop you off or pick you up right at the station entrance or ask the driver to meet you inside the station.   You should take advice before walking around in Johannesburg city centre.  However, things are improving and you will soon be able to travel between Johannesburg Park Station and Pretoria via the suburb of Sandton, using the safe new Gautrain network.

Traveller Trish Jones says this about arriving by car at Johannesburg Park station to catch the Premier Classe train to Cape Town: "With regards to Johannesburg's Park Station, it was one of the things I was concerned about as I haven’t been there for ages, and I’m super cautious.  We had a friend collect us, drove into the car park from the Rissik Street side, and much to my amazement it was spotless and well organized.  Once inside, it’s a case of down the escalator, turn left, and straight into the Premier Classe Lounge (also used for The Blue Train) for check in.  It’s totally separate and is available only to Premier Classe [and Blue Train] passengers.  No hassles and I didn’t feel uncomfortable or threatened at all.  The rest of the station isn't great, but it doesn't matter because you don’t go there."

Travelling from Johannesburg to Cape Town by Shosholoza Meyl tourist class train...

Johannesburg Park Station.  Above left, the main concourse.  Above right, the Shosholoza Meyl ticket office and waiting room.  the streets outside Park Station aren't safe, so make sure you are dropped and collected right at the station entrance.  However, the station itself is well patrolled, has CCTV and is a fairly safe and pleasant place to be.  Photos courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

The reservation list...  Tourist class berths aren't allocated when booking, reservation lists are posted at the departure station. Photo courtesy of Johannes Wittlinger.		En route from Johannesburg to Cape Town...  26 amazing hours by train, right across South Africa.  Travellers who fly really do miss out...  Courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

The next day, after crossing the arid Karoo and traversing the Hex River Pass, the train reaches the Cape wine region, where vineyards nestle under vast mountains.  The carriage windows open half way, great for reflection-free photography and allowing a cool breeze into your sleeper...  Photos courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

Approaching Cape Town itself, you'll pass shanty towns, then Table Mountain itself will come into view.  Photos courtesy of Johannes Wittlinger.

Cape Town station. You arrive right in the heart of Cape Town itself... Photos courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

Travellers' reports...

Traveller Matthew Dowling travelled with Shosholoza Meyl tourist class:  "As for the south African Shosholoza Meyl train from cape town to Kimberly – only good things to say.  Excellent service, comfortable and efficient.  Surprisingly empty, though, which allowed us a six sleeper compartment all to ourselves.  The dining car was well kept and reasonably priced - a real pleasure sliding through the Karoo desert sunset and having a lasagne and a glass of wine."

Traveller Maranda reports from a trip on Shosholoza Meyl's Johannesburg-Cape Town train:  "I met fascinating people (there were no non-South Africans visible on the trains I was on) and saw the country in a spectacular way.  My parents and husband were happy because it was clearly safe. And I even stayed within my budget. I was greatly blessed to meet wonderful people and to see a slice of South African life that's not on the tourist maps.  On the Trans-Karoo, the food I had at dinner in the restaurant car was really good.  I had fried fish and yellow rice with some onion/tomato topping.  Quite scrumpy, and at Rand 30, a very good deal. It was obviously freshly made.  You still need to take a bar of soap, as soap provision in toilets was a bit spotty.  Overall, have to say that the 1st class travel on Shosholoza Meyl is one of the best bargains I've ever encountered. As you said, the train staff are lovely, the bedding is comfy, the views are unbelievably spectacular, and the whole experience is great.  Plus you just get a window onto so many different aspects of South African life, just in terms of whom you meet. "

	Above:  Travelling from Johannesburg to Cape Town in comfort & safety, aboard the Premier Classe train...  Photo courtesy of Michael Schaffer.

Deluxe train travel on a budget...

Cape Town -  Johannesburg  (twice a week)

Johannesburg - Durban (twice a week)

The Premier Classe trains (www.premierclasse.co.za, if their site is working) are an affordable deluxe service on key routes aimed at both budget-conscious tourists and South Africans themselves.  They are another of South-Africa's well-kept travel secrets, and they are already getting great reports from travellers who try them.  If you can't afford the famous Blue Train, but still want safe, civilised deluxe train travel at ground level through superb South African scenery that you can't see from 30,000 feet, take a Premier Classe train.  Premier Classe started out in 1998 as an affordable deluxe service from Cape Town to Johannesburg, originally running once a week attached to the regular Shosholoza Meyl 'Trans-Karoo' train.  But in May 2006 it was made into a completely separate train and increased to twice a week.  In October 2008 they introduced a twice-weekly Durban-Johannesburg train.  They briefly ran a weekly Premier Classe train from Jo'burg to Hoedspruit in the Kruger National Park, but this has now been discontinued.  See advice on using Johannesburg Park Station.

Premier Classe trains are hotels on rails.  They use standard South African railways sleeping-cars (in fact, the same 1960s-1970s type used by Shosholoza Meyl) which have been refurbished to deluxe standards, and passengers are given twice the normal amount of space per passenger:  Solo passengers get sole occupancy of what would have been a 2-berth coupé, two passengers get sole use of what would have been a 4-berth compartment and so get two lower berths.  The sleeping-cars aren't air-conditioned, a big advantage for photographers as the windows open!  There's a deluxe Premier Classe restaurant car serving 3-5 course meals and a Premier Classe lounge car with armchairs, sofas and a bar.  The fare includes all your meals and complimentary tea/coffee, although alcoholic drinks cost extra. Premier Classe passengers can use the luxury 'Blue Train' VIP lounges at Cape Town and Johannesburg stations.  Premier Classe is now a division of the new Passenger Rail Authority of South Africa (PRASA, www.sarcc.co.za).  This amateur video gives a good idea of what to expect on board the Premier Classe train and in terms of scenery, and you may also find this account helps convince you to try out this excellent train service!

Pretoria, Sandton & airport connections:  You will soon be able to travel between Jo'burg Park Station, Sandton, Pretoria & Jo'burg international airport on the safe new Gautrain network, opening shortly.

Car transport:  Cars can also be transported on these trains between Cape Town or Durban & Johannesburg, R 1,100 per car to/from Durban or R 1,780- R 3,700 per car to/from Cape Town.

Premier Classe train timetable...   You can check train times & fares at www.premierclasse.co.za (if working) or at www.shosholoza-meyl.co.za (African Sun Travel).

Cape Town ► Johannesburg				Johannesburg ► Cape Town
Premier Classe:  Deluxe sleepers, restaurant car, lounge.  Currently running normally.				Premier Classe:  Deluxe sleepers, restaurant car, lounge. Currently running normally.
Cape Town	depart	09:05  Tuesdays & Saturdays		Johannesburg	depart	15:00  Thursdays & Sundays
Beaufort West	arr/dep	18:45  Tuesdays & Saturdays		Kimberley	arr/dep	23:03  Thursdays & Sundays
Kimberley	arr/dep	03:00  Next day (Wed & Sun)		Beaufort West	arr/dep	07:20  Next day (Fri & Mon)
Johannesburg	arrive	11:03  Next day (Wed & Sun)		Cape Town	arrive	16:16  Next day (Fri & Mon)

Durban ► Johannesburg				Johannesburg ► Durban
Premier Classe:  Deluxe sleepers, restaurant car, lounge.  Currently running normally.				Premier Classe:  Deluxe sleepers, restaurant car, lounge.  Currently running normally.
Durban	depart	17:30  Wednesdays & Sundays		Johannesburg	depart	18:20  Tuesdays & Fridays
Johannesburg	arrive	06:30  Next day		Durban	arrive	08:30  Next day

How much does Premier Classe cost?

• Cape Town to Johannesburg:  R 1380 to R 2680 (£120-£240 or $185-$360) each way per person depending on the season, including all meals and private sleeper. 

• Durban to Johannesburg:  R 800- R 1210 (£75-£110 or $112-$165) one-way per person with dinner, breakfast & private sleeper.

• Children under 5 travel free if sharing with their parents, children under 10 pay 50% of the adult fare, children 10 & over pay the adult fare.  These child age limits are the ones introduced in early 2008. 

• You can check fares at www.premierclasse.co.za (if working, it may well still not be!), www.shosholoza-meyl.co.za (African Sun Travel) or www.newfusion.co.za (New Fusion Travel)

How to buy tickets...

www.shosholoza-meyl.co.za or call +27 11 774 4555 or + 27 12 334 8039 or (when in South Africa) 086 000 8888

You can request a Premier Classe booking online at www.shosholoza-meyl.co.za (this is in fact African Sun Travel, not Shosholoza Meyl themselves) or www.newfusion.co.za (New Fusion Travel).  Or you can book by phone calling +27 11 774 4555 or + 27 12 334 8039 or (from within South Africa) 086 000 8888 (lines open Monday-Friday 09:00-16:30, GMT+2).  Alternatively, you can e-mail your request to info_premierclasse@transnet.net.  There is more information at the Premier Classe website, if it's working, at www.premierclasse.co.za.

A journey from Cape Town to Johannesburg on the Premier Classe train...

For these photos I am indebted to Billy Shearer, you can read his trip report below.

Boarding the Premier Classe train.  All photos in this panel courtesy of Billy Shearer.		Premier Classe departure lounge.  The same lounge is used for the Blue Train.

Dinner in the diner:  Meals in the elegant restaurant car are included in the fare.

Private sleepers:  All Premier Classe passengers get a private sleeper, solo travellers a coupé with one lower berth, couples get a compartment with two lower berths.  Each compartment has a washbasin, fluffy towels, soap, shampoo, shower gel, mineral water, slippers & bathrobes.  There's a toilet and shower just along the corridor.

Shanty towns on the outskirts of Cape Town, a reminder of South Africa's less well-off...		Cape Town's Table Mountain , seen from the train...

The Cape vineyards:  The train heads past Paarl and the Cape wine country. You can sample some of their produce on board the train!

More beautiful scenery...		The lounge car, a place to relax and meet people.

Night falls over South Africa, as the train races on...		Sunrise next morning...

Premier Classe traveller's reports...

Traveller Deon Irish travelled from Cape Town to Johannesburg by Premier Classe in 2011:  "The train itself was immaculately turned out with - for once - a pair of matching Shosholoza purple diesels instead of orange freight locomotives to pull us out of Cape Town.  Inside, our double berth compartment was immaculate and the newly installed air conditioning welcome (although I would have welcomed higher temperatures overnight in the extremely cold winter highveld conditions).  Staff were uniformly cheerful and helpful, which more than made up for the occasional lack of sophistication. The dining car was a real surprise, with a fine luncheon, a splendid dinner and a gargantuan breakfast included in the ticket price. Drinks are extra, but the wines - in particular - are sold with minimal mark ups.  The only real criticism of the entire journey was the appalling traffic control in the Johannesburg area which over a distance of only 90 odd kms, turned what had been a uniformly on-schedule journey of some 1400 kms into an almost 90 minute late arrival, especially considering it was a Sunday morning."

Traveller William Shearer travelled from Johannesburg to Cape Town by Premier Classe in 2010:  "Oh, the howls of disbelief from my South African friends when they heard I was taking a train. "It's too dangerous! Why aren't you flying? Are you sure?" 
Thanks to the information on Seat 61 I was more than reassured by the safety of the trip I was making. I'll admit, it was with a certain trepidation that I approached Johannesburg station. The area around train stations in any country can sometimes be dodgy (think Kings Cross in times past) but Johannesburg does come with a reputation.  Lugging my two suitcases from my friends car, I was obviously a tourist, and indeed we were approached by a beggar. My friend told him to go away, politely, and he did. That was the extent of any 'hassle' experienced. The station itself reminded me of a shopping centre, but with a handful of shops - quite modern and tidy.  I walked down the escalator which was out of order and found the Premier Classe lounge and 'check-in'. My two suitcases were labelled and I was invited to sit down for a hot or cold drink and a snack while waiting for boarding. The lounge was more like a waiting room, but away from the main station so much more private.

The train manager introduced himself and announced that boarding would start at 2.30pm. A short walk down to the platform and there was our train.  I was invited to join everyone in the dining car at 2.55pm for welcome drinks, so in the meantime I went to my sleeper.  The showers and loo were at the end of the corridor, and they were spotless.  The toilet always smelt fresh, and there was fantastic water pressure in the shower.  After some sparkling wine, and an introduction to the onboard staff, we had coffee and cake. I met some of my fellow travellers and enjoyed a drink as the train lazily snaked through the suburbs of Johannesburg. Our host then asked if we were happy to dine in our groups, which was fine. My fellow traveller was a young man who worked in a goldmine, loved travelling, and hadn't told his parents he was onboard because they would complain he was wasting money... At 7pm I found my table, and my new friend, and sat down for dinner. We had a table for four, made up for two, so very spacious. Kingklip is delicious! As a rule, I don't go for fish, but I was on holiday and my goodness I am glad I tried it! The other courses were very tasty too - served with a smile! I took some pictures but to be honest they didn't come out very well and that wasn't because my dining partner wouldn't share the bottle of wine I ordered. Or anything.

I then went to the bar where I discovered that payment for drinks was made at the end of the trip - very civilised, and drinks were cheap.  A bottle of wine with dinner was about £5.00, a good South African wine too.  I had to do a double take at the prices, as well as watch my drinking!  I went back to my sleeper to discover that it had been made up for turn down.  Next morning, having arranged an early wake up call the night before, I watched the scenery go by. This part of South Africa, the Karoo Desert was cold and rather bleak, however the sunshine took the edge of both at this time of the morning. Soon, it was breakfast time, and a fully cooked breakfast was offered - as well as pastries, cereals, yogurts, the lot!  The scenery improved as we got closer to Cape Town, as vineyards and orchards came into view. Lunch was a four course affair, and as usual, the tables were set up with fresh flowers and crisp linen. Before long, Table Mountain came into view, and we were approaching journeys end. Some of my fellow passengers commented that they had been on Rovos Rail and The Blue Train, but preferred the informal atmosphere on the Premier Classe service.  I would definitely do it again, and I think incorporate it into my next trip to South Africa.

And the cost?  Travel from Johannesburg to Cape Town, sole use of a double occupancy sleeper, coffee & cake, five course dinner, full breakfast, four course lunch, welcome drinks in the lounge, all for a mere £171. I think its the best value travel I have ever experienced.

Traveller Trish Jones travelled from Johannesburg to Cape Town by Premier Classe in late 2009:  My husband and I have just travelled from Johannesburg to Cape Town on the Premier Classe Train – and what an experience!  Although it's in a different class (and price range) to the Blue Train, it offers a truly amazing, comfortable, relaxing trip.  Why on earth have I been driving or flying to Cape Town for all these years?  With regards to Johannesburg's Park Station, it was one of the things I was concerned about as I haven’t been there for ages, and I’m super cautious.  We had a friend collect us, drove into the car park from the Rissik Street side, and much to my amazement it was spotless and well organized.  Once inside, it’s a case of down the escalator, turn left, and straight into the Premier Classe Lounge for check in – it’s totally separate and is available only to Premier Classe passengers.  No hassle and I didn’t feel uncomfortable or threatened at all.  The rest of the station isn't great, but it doesn't matter because you don’t go there.  One is checked in, your baggage taken for loading into your compartment, and there’s free tea, coffee and soft drinks on hand before you are asked to board.  And boarding is a breeze too – the platform the train was on was somewhat removed from the rest.  The onboard staff were truly outstanding, nothing was too much trouble.  We were served complimentary bubbly & snacks in an elegant and comfortable lounge car shortly after leaving in Johannesburg at 3.00pm, and we were introduced to the various members of staff who explained their roles, told us about the facilities on the train and made us feel very welcome indeed.  We had books and magazines to read en route but only looked at them when we were tucked up comfortably in crisp white sheets and duvets for the night.  There was no time to read, we were too busy gazing at the scenery, without having to worry about bad drivers, huge trucks or anything at all to do with road travel – sheer bliss!!  Dinner was a 5 course meal of excellent standard, and there’s a good wine list to choose from too.  We were asked whether we would like tea or coffee delivered to our compartment in the morning.  We chose tea for a 6.30am ‘wake-up’ up call, opened the curtains and blinds in our compartment and watched the sun come up across the Karoo – truly awesome!!  A hearty breakfast at 7.00am followed by a head-shoulders-and back massage in the spa compartment (I understand this is one of just three trains in the world that offer this luxury!).  A hot shower in an exceptionally clean bathroom then back to the compartment for more sightseeing.….through a 12.km tunnel which brings you to the beginning of the Hex River Valley.  Some snow on the mountain peaks completed the perfect picture!!  A three course lunch, again delightfully prepared and presented, some more excellent South African wine before arriving in Cape Town at 4.00pm.  I was almost sorry to have arrived.  Train travel in South Africa is horribly under-utilised and if I can persuade anyone to give it a try perhaps we could have more trains operating, more people off the roads, and more people discovering the joy of rail travel.  The routes offered are Johannesburg to Hoedspruit, Johannesburg to Durban, Johannesburg to Cape Town, and Cape Town to Port Elizabeth – I intend to do the latter as soon as I possibly can – it just has to be fantastic.

Traveller Ros Shaw travelled from Johannesburg to Hoedspruit (Kruger Park) by Premier Classe in summer 2009:  I had a fabulous trip on the Premier Classe to Hoedspruit.  The service on the train was first class - 5 course dinner, friendly service, comfy cabins, tea/coffee wakeup service in your cabin. I even managed to do some game spotting from the train as it passed along the edge of Kruger Park for an hour or so - 1 rhino, 2 giraffe, buffalo, kudu, hippo, impala.  We picked up a hire car at Hoedspruit which was delivered to the station at no extra cost.  The only downside was getting to Joburg station for the start of the trip.  There was a garbage strike on in the Joburg CBD so it was pretty disgusting, even the amount of rubbish along the tracks for the first little bit was pretty gross.  Once at the parking lot of the station it wasn't too bad at all.  I was surprised how modern and clean the station was.  There were a few passengers who joined the train in Pretoria too.  The train was practically empty (less than 25 passenger) and all the guests were locals.  I guess its a bit too early to get many foreign bookings yet.  We spoke to the Marketing Manager who said that they have lots of forward booking from overseas and are already sold out for the World Cup next year.  Overall - highly recommended.

Traveller Andrew Darwin travelled from Johannesburg to Cape Town by Premier Classe in February 2008:  I discovered the existence of the ‘Premier Classe’ train from Johannesburg to Cape Town through seat61.  I have just returned from there a few days ago, having taken this train in both directions.  What a treat!  It was probably the longest and most enjoyable railway journey I’ve ever made, immensely enjoyable.  The train is modern and well designed.  18 carriages long including 2 lounges, 2 dining cars and 2 enclosed trucks at the back for carrying people’s cars or motorbikes.  On our trip there were 4 Harley Davidsons in one of these trucks, while the burly middle-aged bikers (and their molls) enjoyed the comfort of the Premier Classe to Cape Town before going back by road.  The staff were all brilliant, very keen to be of service and clearly with great pride in their job.  At stations, some of them would get out and clean the train windows!  There was a hot shower in each coach, which meant that one arrived the other end fresh and clean, as well as rested and fed and watered.  The drinks on board are refreshingly cheap – a bottle of perfectly decent wine in the dining car can be had for as little as £2.00.  The return ticket cost about £250, including all meals.  What a contrast to the flight back from Jo'burg to London: squashed into a cramped seat, nowhere to go and nothing to see, plastic food, limited drink, no chance of rest, no shower.  Totally uncivilised: 12 hours of torture!

Traveller Michael Schaffer travelled from Johannesburg to Cape Town by Premier Classe in July 2007:  "Oddly, few of the local travel agents in Pretoria knew about the Premier Classe train, instead they all reflexively warned us against taking trains.  I suspect this is part of the odd feeling in that country, where large segments of the population live in fear and also assume anything "public" will be bad. Finally, a friend cued us in to what we'd learned on your website:  A weekly [now twice-weekly], first-class-only train designed as kind of a middle-class approximation of the Blue Train.  The train itself is comfortable and pleasant, albeit a triumph of style over substance.  They have attractively printed menus and solicitous dining-car service, but the food is so-so, although still great for a knockabout traveller.  The 4-bed sleepers have been converted to accommodate just a couple, and they put your name on the door.  The views from the train are both astonishing (the Karoo, and table mountain from the rear) and telling (the often invisible shantytowns of South Africa’s poor).  At the front end, in Jo’burg, you have access to a first-class lounge where they take your bag  and offer you tea and coffee, etc., but you still have to get there by walking through the public portions of a station that has about the worst reputation in the country.  We were fine, although we saw two different people being taken off by police.  At the far end, in Cape Town, the station is pleasant and quiet, although for us this meant there were no taxis to hail.  Eventually, the train’s purser got his son to give us a lift to our hotel!

Still need convincing to try Premier Classe?  See this video...

	The legendary Blue Train from Cape Town to Pretoria, one of the world's most luxurious trains...

Cape Town to Pretoria on one of the world's most luxurious trains...

It's the most famous train in South Africa, and one of the most famous trains in the world.  South Africa's 'Blue Train' links Cape Town with Pretoria once or twice a week, year round.  With a one-way fare of about R10,120 (£890 or $1,300) per person for two people travelling together even in the low season, it's now aimed squarely at foreign visitors.  Single passengers cannot opt to share, so should reckon on paying R15,175 (£1,330 or $2,030) one-way for sole use of a 2-berth compartment.  However, The Blue Train is definitely the most luxurious way to travel between these two cities, and if you do choose to splurge, you will not be disappointed!

The Blue Train timetable...

For departure dates see www.bluetrain.co.za.   See here for the regular passenger trains between Cape Town & Johannesburg.

The northbound journey includes a one-hour stop at the 19th century health resort of Matjiesfontein in the heart of the Karoo.  The Southbound trip includes a stop at Kimberley for a tour of the Kimberley 'big hole' mining museum.  The train no longer serves Johannesburg in either direction, as few tourists want to go there because of its security problems.  The Blue Train rolling stock is also used to run irregular rail cruises, usually monthly from Pretoria to Victoria Falls, and also on a couple of other scenic routes within South Africa.

How much does a trip on the Blue Train cost?

How to buy tickets: www.bluetrain.co.za

For more information about travelling on the Blue Train, to check specific departure dates and to make reservations by e-mail, see www.bluetrain.co.za.  UK flight booking companies such as Travelbag or Trailfinders can also organise The Blue Train for you.

What's it like on board the Blue Train?

The Blue Train offers two types of room:  'Deluxe' compartments have either a double bed or two single beds and en suite shower or small bath.  'Luxury' compartments cost a bit more and are almost identical, but have a full size bath (yes, really) and a video.  The train has a dining car and two lounge cars (one smoking, one non-smoking) and one of the two trainsets has an observation car at the rear, allowing you to look back along the line.  Meals and drinks (and even Montecristo Havana cigars!) are included in the fare, and there is an extensive list of South African wines available.  You probably won't be able to drink £800-worth before you reach Pretoria, but you can have a dam' good try...  For pictures of the scenery between Cape Town and Pretoria, see the scenery shots from the Cape Town to Johannesburg journey by Shosholoza Meyl train here and by Premier Classe train here, as the Blue Train follows the same route as far as Jo'burg.

Boarding South Africa's Blue Train at Cape Town's central station for an epic 27-hour journey to Pretoria...		One of the two bar-lounge cars on the Blue Train.  Even Montecristo cigars are included in the fare!

Meals in the elegant restaurant car are included in the fare, complete with a choice of South African wines...		The Blue Train stopped at Matjiesfontein, hauled by two electric locomotives specially kept in the famous blue colour...

Yes, it really is a full-size bath (in deluxe suites only)! The Blue Train is one of the few trains in the world to feature a real en suite bath, not just a shower...		A deluxe twin-bed suite on the Blue Train, showing one bed folded out, the second bed remaining folded away to reveal the seat...

Several companies run all-inclusive tours using special 'cruise' trains.  Rovos Rail (www.rovos.co.za) runs a cruise train to a regular schedule from Cape Town to Pretoria and on to Victoria Falls.  The train consists of beautifully restored South African coaches with all the usual tourist facilities - lounge, restaurant, private sleeping compartments and showers.  Meals are included in the tour price.  For times, dates of running and prices see www.rovos.co.za.  Another 'cruise' train operating on various routes in Southern Africa and into neighbouring countries is www.shongololo.com.  Also try www.jbtours.co.za.

The trains don't go everywhere in South Africa, and there are times when you might need to take a bus.  There are several long-distance bus operators.  Useful internet addresses are:

TransLux, www.translux.co.za.  Call 011 774 3333 or from outside South Africa +27 (011) 774 3333

Greyhound, www.greyhound.co.za.  Call 083 915 9000.

InterCape, www.intercape.co.za.  Call 0861 287 287 or from outside South Africa +27 21 380 4400.

I strongly recommend buying a good guidebook - and I think the Lonely Planets and Rough Guides are easily the best out there for the independent traveller.  You won't regret buying one!

Click the images to buy online at Amazon.co.uk...

Or buy direct from the Lonely Planet website, with shipping worldwide.

LP Southern Africa is less detailed than LP South Africa, but it covers other countries as well as SA.    Alternatively, you can download just the chapters or areas you need in .PDF format from the Lonely Planet Website, from around £2.99 or US$4.95 a chapter.

These trains have economy seats ('sitter class') but no sleepers.  Economy is OK for daytime journeys but not recommended for overnight trips unless travel is essential.

"The Amatola".  This train has Economy class seats, no sleeper.  Economy fare Jo'burg to East London R180.

"The Bosvelder".  This train has Economy class seats only (it used to have sleepers, but now doesn't).  For travellers bound for Bulawayo or Harare in Zimbabwe, Messina is 12km from the Zimbabwe frontier across the Limpopo River at Beitbridge.  Economy fare Jo'burg to Messina R110.

"The Komati".  This train has This train has Economy class seats only (it used to have sleepers, but no longer has).  Economy fare Jo'burg to Komatipoort R100.

*  See the Mozambique page for information on travel between Johannesburg & Maputo by train.