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London to Paris by train & ferry . . .

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 London to Paris by train+ferry...

London to Paris by Eurostar

Why go by train + ferry?

Eurostar now links London and Paris in just 2½ hours, centre to centre, with fares from £59 return.  But you can still travel from London to Paris by train and ferry if you want, buying separate train and ferry tickets.  It takes far longer than Eurostar, about 9 hours centre to centre, is much less convenient, and usually costs more, but it has these advantages:

  • You get to travel across Kent on a more scenic route at a slower pace;

  • You get to sail across the Channel from the White Cliffs of Dover;

  • You don't have to go through the Channel Tunnel if that's an issue for you (although you'll find the Channel Tunnel is a complete anti-climax, it's just 20 short minutes out of a 2½ hour Eurostar journey);

  • Because the trains and ferries are basically a 'walk up, buy a ticket and hop on' service, with no reservation or advance booking necessary, the cost can sometimes be less than Eurostar if you can't book in advance and have to buy your tickets at very short notice or on the day of travel when all cheap Eurostar fares are sold out.

  • Some people ask about train & ferry travel because they can't find an affordable one-way fare on Eurostar.  Please see the advice on finding affordable Eurostar one-way fares here.

How to travel by train & ferry from London to Calais, Boulogne, Amiens & Paris...

The days of travelling on a non-stop 'boat train' run exclusively for international passengers from London Victoria into Folkestone Harbour or Dover Western docks right alongside the ferries are long gone.  The stations at Dover Western Docks and Calais Maritime were closed when Eurostar started in 1994.  You now need to use ordinary domestic trains on each side of the English Channel and make your own way by bus or taxi between town centre stations and the ferry terminals in both Dover and Calais.  But if you still want to travel from London to Paris by train and ferry, here's how:

  • Step 1Take a train from London to Dover.  Regular trains run from London Charing Cross to Dover (Priory station) every 30 minutes, journey time 1 hour 50 minutes.  There's also a half-hourly service from London Victoria if that's a more convenient terminal for you.  You can check UK train times & fares at www.nationalrail.co.uk.  Allow at least 65 minutes in Dover, preferably a bit more, between your train arrival and planned ferry departure, as there is a 45-min check-in for the ferry.  Just buy your London-Dover train ticket at Charing Cross station on the day of travel, no advance reservation is necessary or even possible, you buy a ticket and hop on.

  • On arrival at Dover Priory station, take a bus (£2, every 20 minutes), taxi (about £4) or a long walk (around 30-40 minutes) to Dover Eastern Docks where the P&O & SeaFrance ships leave, or walk (20 minutes) or taxi to the Speedferries terminal.

  • Step 2:  Sail from Dover to Calais by ship.  The traditional option is to sail from Dover (Eastern Docks) to Calais on a conventional ship run by either www.seafrance.co.uk or www.poferries.com.  Ferries sail every hour or two, crossing time 1 hour 30 minutes.  You can book online in advance or just buy a ticket at the port, there are always places available.

  • Step 2, alternative:  Sail from Dover to Boulogne by fast catamaran.  A faster, cheaper, though less frequent alternative is to take a fast catamaran run by Speedferries (www.speedferries.co.uk) from Dover (Speedferries terminal, not Eastern Docks) to Boulogne.  This costs just £7.50 rather than £12-£18 each way, and it takes you to Boulogne for direct trains to Paris, saving you the time and extra cost of the local train between Calais and Boulogne.  A transfer bus departs from the entrance to the Speedferries terminal in Dover 45 minutes before each sailing.

  • It is no longer possible to cross the Channel by hovercraft, as Hoverspeed stopped all their Dover-Calais SeaCat sailings in November 2005, and hovercraft were withdrawn several years before that.

  • The P&O or SeaFrance ferries arrive at Calais Maritime ferry terminal.  If you have a backpack or other light luggage you can walk across the recently-reopened footbridge into town, it's a 10 minute walk to the market place in the town centre, or a 15 minute walk to Calais Ville station.  If you have heavy luggage or cannot walk far, take a shuttle bus from the ferry terminal to Calais Ville station, the bus fare is 1.50 euros or £1.  Make sure you allow at least 60 minutes in Calais between the ferry arrival and the departure of the train to Paris.

  • The Speedferries catamaran arrives at Boulogne ferry terminal, a few minutes walk from Boulogne town centre and a few more minutes walk to Boulogne Ville railway station.

  • Step 3:  Take a train from Calais or Boulogne to Paris.  Coming from Calais, you normally take a local train to Boulogne and change there onto an express from Boulogne to Paris.  There are relatively few trains between Calais or Boulogne and Paris, so it's the timings of these few French trains that will determine which of the frequent British trains and ferries you need to catch between London, Dover and Calais or Boulogne to connect.  You can check French train times & fares at www.raileurope.co.uk or www.voyages-sncf.com.  Booking online might save a few pounds if you corner a cheap non-refundable, non-changeable 'prems' fare, but it's not expensive or difficult to simply buy a ticket at the station when you get there.

Example timetable...

Here is a timetable showing possible London-Paris connections, using the P&O or SeaFance ships.  Please use them as a very rough guide, and check them carefully before travelling!

 London ► Dover / Calais ► Paris  (by train+ferry)

 Train: Mondays-Fridays Saturdays Sundays
 London Charing Cross depart 07:00 10:23 11:53 06:00 10:23 08:54 11:54
 Dover Priory arrive 08:57 12:09 13:23 07:57 12:09 10:41 13:41

 Ship:  (in Dover, take bus or taxi from station to Dover Eastern Docks)

 Dover Eastern Docks depart 10:05 13:00 14:25 09:25 13:00 12:15 14:25
 Calais port arrive 12:35 15:30 16:55 11:55 15:30 14455 16:55

 Train:  (at Calais, take bus from ferry terminal to station) 

 Calais Ville depart 13:49 16:44 17:50 13:06 16:52 15:52 17:51
 Boulogne arrive 14:23 17:21 18:31 13:38 17:26 16:26 18:25

 Train:  (change trains in Boulogne)

|  
 Boulogne depart 14:38 17:42 18:31 14:38 17:42 16:30 18:32
 Etaples / Le Touquet arrive 14:53 17:57 18:49 14:53 17:57 16:51 18:50
 Amiens arrive 16:02 18:58 19:59 16:02 18:58 17:58 19:58
 Paris Gare de Nord arrive 17:20 20:20 21:20a 17:20 20:20 19:20 21:20

a = change at Amiens, not Boulogne.   t = By direct high-speed TGV train from Paris to Calais, reservation obligatory, small supplement payable.

How to read these timetables     No UK trains on 25 or 26 December.

Please double-check times before you travel, especially if travelling at French or UK bank holiday periods.  Unlike the integrated pre-Eurostar train+ferry services, this is not an organised service where ferries are held if trains run late, but completely separate trains and ferry.  If you have important connections in Paris, bear this in mind and perhaps take an earlier train from London.

 Paris ► Calais / Dover ► London  (by train+ferry)

 Train: Monday-Friday Saturdays Sundays
 Paris Nord depart 07:07 09:58 t 10:07 14:19 07:07 09:58 t 10:07 14:19 08:04 10:07 14:19
 Amiens depart 08:28

|

11:23 15:35 08:28

|

11:23 15:35 09:25 11:23 15:35
 Etaples / Le Touquet depart 09:28 | 12:31 16:40 09:28 | 12:31 16:40 10:24 12:31 16:40
 Boulogne arrive 09:44 | 12:48 16:57 09:44 | 12:48 16:57 10:41 12:48 16:57

 Train:  (change trains in Boulogne):

 Boulogne depart 09:57 | 13:03 17:03 09:57 | 13:03 17:41 10:51 12:58 17:41
 Calais Ville arrive 10:31 11:40 t 13:43 17:39 10:31 11:40 t 13:43 18:16 11:22 13:33 18:16

 Ship:  (in Calais, take bus or taxi from station to port)

 Calais port depart 11:50 12:35 15:25 18:20 11:50 12:35 15:25 19:45 12:35 15:25 19:45
 Dover Eastern Docks arrive 12:20 13:05 15:55 18:50 12:20 13:05 15:55 20:15 13:05 15:55 20:15

 Train:  (in Dover, take bus or taxi from Eastern Docks to Dover Priory station)

 Dover Priory depart 13:33 13:49 16:37 19:48 13:33 13:49 16:41 21:07 14:18 17:18 21:07
 London Charing Cross  arrive 15:06 15:36 18:35 21:35 15:06 15:36 18:35 23:06 16:07 19:07 23:06

You now need to buy separate tickets for the UK train, the ferry, and the French train.

 Train+ferry costs:

 Fare: One-way: Return:
 London to Dover by train: £26 one-way full fare, £24 off-peak. £52 full fare, Saver £28 if travelling after 09:30.
 Dover to Calais by ferry: £12 with SeaFrance, £18 with P&O Ferries £24 with SeaFrance, £36 with P&O Ferries
 Calais to Paris by train: 34 euros (£24) full fare or from £15 'prems' 68 euros (£48) full fare or from £30 'prems'

How to buy tickets:

  • It's easy to buy the London-Dover train ticket at Charing Cross station on the day of travel.  No advance reservation is necessary or even possible, you buy a ticket and hop on.  You can check times & fares at www.nationalrail.co.uk, and can buy online here if you want to save time queuing at the ticket office on the day.

  • Buy the ferry ticket either at the port on day of travel (there are always places available) or in advance at either www.seafrance.co.uk or www.poferries.com.  You can check prices and buy tickets for both ferry operators at the Seat61 Ferry Shop.  If travelling with Speedferries, book online at www.speedferries.co.uk.

  • Buy the Calais/Boulogne-Paris train ticket either at the station in Calais or Boulogne on the day of travel (no advance reservation necessary, but only the full fare will be available on the day of travel) or in advance at  www.raileurope.co.uk or www.voyages-sncf.com (which saves time at the ticket office, and cheap 'prems' fares may be available if you book at least 14 days in advance, no refunds, no changes to travel plans).  Tips for booking Calais-Paris tickets online:  (1) Make sure you buy tickets from 'Calais Station' not 'Calais Fréthun'.  (2)  Click 'via' and enter 'Boulogne', otherwise it routes you via Lille.

  • London-Paris train+ferry through tickets were finally withdrawn from sale in May 2007.

Sponsored links:


 The Thomas Cook European Timetable

Thomas Cook European Timetable -  click to buy onlineThomas Cook Rail Map of Europe - buy onlineThe Thomas Cook European timetable has train & ferry times for every country in Europe, plus currency & climate information.  Published since 1873 and costing £13.50, it's essential for any serious traveller and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  More information on what the Thomas Cook Timetable contains.  You can buy the latest monthly edition online at www.thomascooktimetables.com with worldwide delivery, or buy it in person from any UK branch of Thomas Cook (ask at the bureau de change).  Or buy the independent traveller's edition from Amazon.co.uk:  Winter 2007/8 edition (December 2007 to June 2008) or Summer 2008 edition (June to December 2008)

The Thomas Cook Rail Map of Europe is the best and most comprehensive map of train routes right across Europe, from Portugal in the west to Istanbul, Moscow & Ukraine in the east, from Finland in the north to Sicily & Crete in the south.  High speed & scenic routes are highlighted.  Highly recommended!  Buy online at www.amazon.co.uk (worldwide delivery).  See an extract from the map.


 Hotels & accommodation in Paris & France...

Hotels & guesthouses...

It's easy to book hotels online to go with your train tickets, but there are almost too many hotel booking websites to choose from..!  So I recommend these three sites to find a hotel or guesthouse in France and most other European countries:

  • First, see www.laterooms.com, which will list a huge number of hotels in any given town or city on a single page showing price and availability for your specific dates.  www.laterooms.com gets significant discounts over normal rates for many hotels, and these discounted prices are shown in orange.  As its name suggests, www.laterooms.com gets discounts for hotel rooms booked within 3 months of travel, making it ideal for anyone booking train travel within the normal 90 days booking horizon.

  • Then see Paris hotels page or France hotels page on www.venere.com, which has a more personal approach than laterooms.com.  On www.venere.com, the price you see is the price you pay, no hidden extras, and you simply pay the hotel when you get there.  AfterClick to book a hotel or guesthouse online with Venere.com you've booked, you can change or cancel your reservation in line with the hotel's own change and cancellation policy.

  • Finally, www.tripadvisor.com is a huge resource, and the best place to browse for independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.  Once you've picked a hotel you can use Tripadvisor's price comparison system which compares room prices for your dates for a given hotel on all the main hotel booking websites (expedia, hotels.com and so on) so you can pick the cheapest offer.

Budget backpacker hostels...

  • If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about the hostels..!  For backpacker hostels in most European cities at budget prices (either a dorm bed or an ultra cheap private room) use www.hostelbookers.com.

Hiring a car in France...

Cars and city centres don't mix well.  But if you want to get out of the cities and into the countryside, for example Dordogne or the Ardennes, hiring a car can be a good idea.  For inexpensive car hire with a reputable operator, give Holiday Autos a try.


 Travel insurance & health card...

Compare quotes from both Direct Line & Columbus...

Travel insurance..

Travel insurance is a boring subject, but it's a real necessity, so make sure you budget for it.  Make sure you get adequate cover - for example, at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover, from a reliable insurer.  Remember that an annual multi-trip policy is often cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just two or three trips a year.  Here are some suggested insurers to try.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy after clicking these links.

  If you live in the UK, get quotes from Direct Line (whom I've used myself) and Columbus Direct.

      If you live in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct Australia.

  If you live in the USA or Canada, try Travel Guard USA.

EU health card...

UK citizens travelling in Europe should carry a European Health Insurance Card.  This replaces the old E111 forms as from January 2006.  The EHIC card is available free from www.ehic.org.uk and entitles you to free or reduced rate health care if you become ill or get injured in many European countries, under a reciprocal arrangement with the UK's NHS.


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