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Venice to Ljubljana by train, not bus No reservation needed, it's turn up & go with unlimited availability. Great scenery - bring a picnic & beer if you like! |
Venice to Ljubljana for 27.80
Train service between Trieste & Ljubljana was restored in 2018 with two daily regional trains each way. In 2021, an Austrian EuroCity express between Vienna & Ljubljana was extended to/from Trieste as a third train. These trains are the best way to travel between Venice or Trieste and Ljubljana.
It's cheap, comfortable, no prior reservation necessary, can't sell out, turn up & go. Much better than a cramped bus. The trains have air-con, toilets, plenty of luggage space, bike spaces, power sockets at seats, and there are sights to see along the way.
Option 2 is a variation on the direct route, using the historic tram between Trieste and the Slovenian border at Villa Opicina, with 5 or 6 departures per day - the tram is a great experience, but unfortunately it's been temporarily replaced by a bus since an incident in 2016 and has yet to resume.
Option 1, using the Trieste-Ljubljana trains
Option 2, using the historic Trieste tram
(still suspended)
Venice & Trieste to or from Lake
Bled
Trains from Venice to
other European cities
Trains from Ljubljana to other cities
Option 1, Venice & Trieste - Ljubljana by train 2024
A twice-daily regional train started running between Trieste & Ljubljana in 2018, restoring rail travel between Italy & Slovenia after a gap of several years. A third train started in 2021, this time a Vienna-Ljubljana EuroCity express that's been extended to Trieste. You can check these times at int.bahn.de.
Read downwards, each column of times is a service you can take.
* = Venice Mestre, on the mainland. No onward train to Venice Santa Lucia in central Venice until morning.
Regional = Air-conditioned regional train, 2nd class only, no reservation necessary or possible, fixed price, cannot sell out, sit where you like, turn up & go.
EuroCity = Air-conditioned EuroCity train, Vienna-Ljubljana-Trieste, 1st & 2nd class, seat reservation optional, cheaper advance-purchase fares available if you pre-book, uses comfortable ΦBB (Austrian Railways) EuroCity cars. Always places available.
There are only 3 trains per day between Trieste & Ljubljana, shown here. Venice-Trieste regional trains run every hour, only the relevant connections are shown here. Check Ljubljana-Trieste trains at potniski.sz.si, currently only in Slovenian, click Tujina then Italija then Trst.
Alternative route via Villach: Once a day there's an alternative train service between Venice & Ljubljana via Villach in Austria rather than Trieste. It's a longer way round but a useful alternative. See Ljubljana to Venice info here & Venice to Ljubljana info here.
Stop off in Trieste!
The timetable above shows the most suitable Venice-Trieste connection into or out of each Trieste-Ljubljana train, but Venice-Trieste regional trains in fact run every hour through the day. B y all means take an earlier train from Venice to Trieste eastbound or a later one from Trieste to Venice westbound to give yourself some time in Trieste, a great city that's well worth a stop. Indeed, along with Turin I'd say Trieste was one of Italy's most under-rated cities. Check train times at www.raileurope.com.
How much does it cost?
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Venice to Trieste by regional train costs 16.00. Fixed price, unlimited availability, any day, any date, cannot sell out.
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Trieste to Ljubljana by regional train costs 11.80. Fixed price, unlimited availability, any day, any date, cannot sell out.
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Trieste to Ljubljana by EuroCity train costs 30.60 full-price in 2nd class or 48.40 in 1st class.
Advance-purchase fares start at 9.90 in 2nd class or 22.90 in 1st class, specified train only, no refunds.
How to buy tickets
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You can buy a ticket between Venice & Trieste at the station in Venice or Trieste on the day. No reservation necessary, tickets cannot sell out, it's that simple. Or buy online at the Trenitalia website www.trenitalia.com and print it out, if you have access to a printer.
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You can buy a ticket between Trieste & Ljubljana by regional train on the day at Trieste or Ljubljana station. No reservation is necessary or possible, unlimited availability, tickets cannot sell out. Tickets cannot be bought online, and do not need to be.
You can buy a ticket between Trieste & Ljubljana by EuroCity train either at Trieste or Ljubljana station on the day at the full-flex rate with unlimited availability, or buy a cheaper advance-purchase Sparschiene fare online at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at. Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
Route map
What is the regional train like?
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The Trieste-Ljubljana regional trains were originally operated by air-conditioned 5-car ETR 563 trains which were authorised for both Italy and Slovenia so could run all the way. Currently, the Trieste-Ljubljana regional is advertised as a through service, but it actually consists of two separate trains: A Trenitalia regional unit between Trieste Centrale & Villa Opicina on the Italian side of the Slovenian border and a smart modern Slovenian regional train between Villa Opicina & Ljubljana. See the video.
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Changing trains at Villa Opicina is easy, it usually just means getting off, walking forward along the same platform, and stepping on to the waiting onward train, no big deal. It's still an integrated service.
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Both trains are comfortable, modern and air-conditioned, 2nd class only (although the Slovenian train has a small 1st class section). There are no seat reservations, you get on and sit wherever you like. Luggage isn't a problem, you can take what you like and it simply goes on the floor.
What is the EuroCity train like?
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The Trieste-Ljubljana EuroCity train is an air-conditioned Austrian EuroCity express on its way to/from Vienna. It used to run only between Ljubljana & Vienna, but from 11 June 2021 it's being extended to/from Trieste. Bring your own food & drink, as only 3 Austrian seats cars run between Trieste & Ljubljana, the Slovenian dining car & Slovenian seats cars are only added between Ljubljana & Vienna.
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Tip: You can check the train formation, see carriage photos and view seating plans if you go to www.vagonweb.cz, select en top left for English, then click Train Formations and search for train EC 150 Emona westbound or EC 151 Emona eastbound.
What's the journey like?
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Prosecco station, closed 2012. The sign is no longer readable, but this is it! Courtesy of Darryl Woodman |
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Between Ljubljana & Trieste, these trains take the classic international route once used by the famous Simplon Orient Express from Paris to Istanbul. Trains cannot climb the steep escarpment between Trieste & Villa Opicina (on the Slovenian border) like buses and the historic tram do, so after leaving Trieste Centrale the train runs a fair way west along the coast before making a giant U-turn inland and climbing steadily towards Villa Opicina. You can see on the route map above just how far out of Trieste the train has to go before turning right onto the line to Villa Opicina.
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The Prosecco connection
Just after making that sharp turn inland, the train passes non-stop through the now-closed station of Prosecco - that's right, the village where prosecco wine originated, although the village itself lies a little way from the station between the railway and the sea. Have your camera ready as the station building dating from 1857 will be on the right hand side going towards Ljubljana, or the left hand side going towards Trieste - as far as I know the station name-board is still displayed, though dilapidated as Prosecco station has been closed since December 2011 when passenger service was discontinued. After Villa Opicina the train crosses into Slovenia, the Slovenian side of the border is Sezana. From here the train wends its way through lovely green hills towards Ljubljana.
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The Borovnica valley & viaduct
Approaching Borovnica, just south of Ljubljana the train enters a lovely rural valley, does a 180 degree turn at the far end and heads back out on the other side of the valley, calling at Borovnica station in the process. I assumed the railway builders hadn't the funds for a viaduct across the valley mouth, but I was wrong. The builders of what was then the Vienna-Trieste Southern Austrian Railway completed a magnificent double-arched masonry viaduct across the valley in 1856.
The viaduct was the scene for high drama on 28 June 1942, when Yugoslav partisans attacked an Italian train carrying arrestees to concentration camps, freeing 300 prisoners. However, those that refused to join the partisans were executed, see the Wikipedia entry for Borovnica here. The viaduct had reached a poor state of repair by World War 2, and the after the Italians withdrew the Germans constructed a diversionary route around this vulnerable link. The viaduct was attacked and partially destroyed by the USAF 489 Bombardment Group in 1944 and never rebuilt, the railway was diverted around the valley in 1947 where it still runs today. The remaining structure was dismantled by 1950, leaving just one pier still standing today as a monument in the centre of the valley.
You can see this pier from the train if you know what to look for and where to look. See Wikipedia entry for Borovnica Viaduct. See Google Map showing site of remaining Borovnica viaduct pier, and the loop of the current railway around Borovnica valley through Borovnica station.
The views over the valley will be on the left hand side of the train going north towards Ljubljana, or the right hand side travelling south towards Trieste. If you get more photos, please let me know!
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You arrive at Ljubljana's large central station, walking distance from the city centre. Built in 1848 and renovated in 1980, the Irish Author James Joyce once spent a chilly night sleeping at the station in October 1904 on his way to Trieste -there's a small plaque to mark this event.
Option 2, using the historic tram from Trieste to Villa Opicina
This is essentially the same route as option 1, but instead of taking a train all the way from Trieste to Ljubljana, you use the historic Trieste tram (if operating) for the 6km (3.5 miles) between Trieste and the Italian/Slovenian border at Villa Opicina, picking up the train to Ljubljana there. The tram line isn't marked on the route map above but you can easily imagine it as a fairly direct line from Trieste to Villa Opicina (so a much shorter distance than that taken by the train, which cannot scale the escarpment behind the city). You don't get to pass through Prosecco station like you do on the train, but the tram is an experience in itself. It's the only tram in the world that becomes a funicular half way through its journey to climb the steep escarpment out of Trieste to the plateau above the city, with great views over the city and the Adriatic, have your camera ready! You get up to 6 departures a day this way rather than just two, as there are more trains between Villa Opicina & Ljubljana, in addition to the ones that extend to/from Trieste.
IMPORTANT: THE TRIESTE TRAM IS STILL OUT OF
ACTION, REPLACED BY A BUS
The historic tram between Trieste & Villa Opicina had a prang on 16 August 2016 and has been out of action for repairs ever since. It was due to resume in April 2017 then June then August, then in April 2018, then rumours that it would resume in Spring 2020. Latest info back in February 2023, repairs are complete and there have been test runs, it now requires official approval. Resumption has been rumoured as September 2023, but in 2024 it's still not running!
You can still travel this route using the replacement local bus service running every 20-30 minutes for the same price, although now the direct trains are operating there's little point if the historic tram is still out. Do let me know if you find the tram back in service as there's no easy way to check without going to Trieste.
Bus number 2 runs every 20-30 minutes between Trieste Piazza Oberdan tram terminus and Villa Opicina tram terminus (a short walk from Villa Opicina railway station). Bus number 4 runs every 20-30 minutes between Trieste Piazza Oberdan tram terminus and Villa Opicina station, saving a walk.
Venice & Trieste ► Ljubljana
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Step 1, travel from Venice Santa Lucia to Trieste by regional train, these run every hour through the day taking 2h05. The fare is 13.40, buy at the station on the day, no reservation necessary or even possible, you simply buy a ticket at the station and hop on. You can check train times and prices at www.trenitalia.com. Map of Trieste. Note that some Trieste-Venice trains take a longer 3h route and cost more, 17, ideally you want the hourly direct 2h05 train.
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Step 2, now take the wonderful historic tram from Trieste to Villa Opicina on the Italian side of the Slovenian border (6km, 3.5 miles) or if the tram is still out of service, the replacement bus service. The tram runs from Trieste Piazza Oberdan tram terminus to Villa Opicina tram terminus, every 20 minutes 07:00-20:00, journey time 25 minutes, fare 1.35. The tram is an old-fashioned piece of Trieste heritage, and unique in that for 10 minutes of the journey it buffers up to a 'drogue' and becomes a funicular railway up the steep escarpment out of Trieste. The tram website is www.tramdeopcina.it. On arrival in Villa Opicina it's a 10-15 minute walk from the tram terminus to the mainline rail station, see map with walking directions.
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Step 3, take a regional train from Villa Opicina to Ljubljana. These run around 6 times per day, typical journey time 1h57, fare around 8.70, you can check times at int.bahn.de or potniski.sz.si. No reservation is necessary or possible, just hop on and pay on board. The journey is relaxing and very scenic as the train wends its way through the hills past pretty villages, and finally down into the plain to Ljubljana. The route passes Borovnica, see the section about Borovnica valley and viaduct in option 1 above.
Ljubljana ► Trieste & Venice
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Step 1, travel from Ljubljana to Villa Opicina (the Italian border town) by local train. These run up to 6 times per day, journey time around 1h55, fare around 8.70. No reservation necessary, just hop on and pay on board. The journey is relaxing and very scenic as the train first crosses the plain, then wends its way up into the hills past pretty villages. At one point it enters, circumnavigates then leaves a long green valley, climbing for height all the while. Lovely!
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Step 2
Step 3, travel from Trieste to Venice by hourly regional train. These run every hour, journey time 2h05, fare 13.40. Fare 12.10, no reservation necessary. But I'd recommend having a longer look round Trieste as it's a lovely city, and taking a later train. You can check train times and prices at www.trenitalia.com. No reservation is necessary or possible for regional trains, you buy a ticket at the station and hop on. Note that some Trieste-Venice trains take a longer 3h route and cost more, 17, ideally you want the hourly direct 2h05 train.
What's the tram ride like?
Above left, for the ascent of the escarpment the tram couples up to a 'drogue', the only tram in the world to transform into a funicular railway for part of the ride. Above right, the tram terminus and cafe at Villa Opicina, the Italian border town next to Slovenia.
Slovenian local train from Villa Opicina to Ljubljana. These trains are modern & air-conditioned with on-board information displays, toilets & ample room for luggage. Take provisions with you, as there's no catering at Villa Opicina station or on the train. These trains run up to 6 times a day from Villa Opicina on the Italian side of the border to Ljubljana. You can check train times at the Slovenian Railways website potniski.sz.si.