Lunch
in London... Breakfast in Berlin...
There's no need to fly from the UK to anywhere in Europe. It's surprisingly easy, quick and comfortable to travel overland by train from London to just about anywhere: Spain, Italy, Greece, Prague, Helsinki, Moscow... The difficult bit is finding out how to do it and where to buy tickets. That's where Seat 61 comes in!
This website will tell you the best routes, train times & approximate fares from London to major destinations all over Europe. It explains what the trains are like, and the best way to buy tickets.
Even if your journey doesn't start in the UK, this site will give you the basic tools to plan and book journeys all over Europe at the best prices.
Left: Eurostar links the UK not just with Paris, but with destinations all over Europe.
Train times &
fares from the UK to any country in Europe...
Let's start with recommended routes, train times & fares from the UK to your European destination. Select your destination country in the drop-down box on the right, or pick a country from the menu on the left. Return to this page for general information about luggage, taking your bike, crossing Paris by metro, and so on. To plan a European train journey which doesn't start in the UK, see how to check train times & how to buy tickets.
General information about train travel in Europe...
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Children & travel with kids (separate page) |
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How
to check
European train times...
You can find schedules for virtually any European train journey at www.bahn.de...
Click for
an online
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If you only remember one European train travel resource (apart from seat 61, of course), make it www.bahn.de. This features an excellent online timetable for the whole of Europe provided by the German Railways, probably the most useful resource for European train travel on the net. Try asking it for Palermo to Helsinki or Lisbon to Moscow and you'll see what I mean. These tips may help:
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Switch it to English: On the www.bahn.de home page, the English language button is top right.
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Place names: When you start typing a place name, it will offer a selection of likely locations. However, the selection sometimes uses foreign language place names rather than English ones. For Venice you should select 'Venise'. For Genoa select 'Genova'. For Geneva select 'Geneve'. For Zurich, type 'Zurich HB' (HB=Hauptbahnhof) as for some reason typing 'Zurich' alone only brings up Zurich airport. For Copenhagen, select 'KOBENHAVN' or 'Kopenhagen Hauptbahnhof'. For Lisbon select 'Lisboa Santa Apolonia' (for city centre) or 'Lisboa Oriente'. For Athens you'll need to select 'Athenes'. For Bucharest you'll need to enter 'Bucuresti' as 'Bucharest' doesn't work. For Warsaw select 'Warszawa'. For Moscow select 'Moscou' (which it also recognises as 'Moskva'). And so on.
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Which station? If the selection includes a city name in capital letters without any specific station name, use this as the system will show trains serving any main station in that city. However, sometimes the selection only includes specific stations in that city, and you may wonder which to choose. Obviously, 'centrale' in Italian or 'centraal' in Dutch means central station, usually the best option. In Brussels, select 'Brussel Zuid' as this is the main station in Brussels, also known as Brussels Midi or 'Brussels South Station'. In Cologne, select 'Cologne (Köln Hbf)'. In Barcelona, select Barcelona Sants unless travelling to or from Paris, when you're better off selecting Barcelona Franca. It helps to know that 'hauptbahnhof' ('hbf') is 'main station' in German, 'Hlavni' is main station in Czech, 'Glowny' ('Gl.') is main station in Polish. In Verona, select 'Verona Porta Nuova'. In Venice, Venice Santa Lucia is on the Grand Canal in Venice itself, Venice Mestre is an industrial area on the mainland.
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Journey details: When the results appear, click on the 'down arrow' to the left of each train service to see a detailed breakdown of the journey.
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In the detailed view, click on a train number and it will show you the complete origin-to-destination timetable & all calling points for that train and its days of operation.
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Major rail operators only: This system holds data for all main European national rail networks, including many private train operators in Switzerland & Sweden. It does not cover some small private railways such as the Circumvesuviana (Naples-Pompeii-Sorrento in Italy) or FEVE or Euskotren (e.g. French frontier to San Sebastian in Spain). Or for that matter, urban metro or tram routes.
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Timetable changes in June & December: It usually holds data only until the next Europe-wide timetable change, which happens twice a year on the second Sunday in June and December. So don't be surprised if it shows no trains at all running in late December if you make an enquiry in August, as late December is beyond the mid-December timetable change. Simply make an enquiry for a date this side of the timetable change instead, and assume that the times won't change that much. Also remember that bookings for most European trains only open 90 days in advance, and for a few countries, only 60 days in advance.
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This system is very good, but some railways (often the Greeks or Spanish, it seems) can often be late in supplying data. If you get strange results you can try the railway operator's own website instead, for example www.renfe.com for Spain or www.ose.gr for Greece. There's a complete list of rail websites on the useful links page.
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Interchange times for long journeys: On the advanced search page you can set it to require longer interchange times between trains. Remember that this is an automated system which allows the minimum theoretical time at interchange stations. This is fine for short daytime journeys where there's another train half an hour later if you miss it, but for critical connections, for example with sleeper trains that you can't afford to miss, you should allow much longer than is allowed by bahn.de. To give an extreme example, I would want at least 2 hours to connect in Bucharest when coming from Istanbul and connecting for Budapest to allow for long delays, but the system assumes that everything runs spot on time and allows only minutes.
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For British train times it's better to use www.nationalrail.co.uk as this will show any engineering work alterations and fares.
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Fares: www.bahn.de will show train times for virtually any journey in Europe, but will only show fares (or sell tickets) for journeys within Germany, also for most direct trains to or from Germany such as Munich-Verona, Paris-Munich or Berlin-Warsaw, and for German-run trains such as City Night Line sleeper trains from Amsterdam to Prague, Amsterdam to Zurich or Basel to Copenhagen. If you want to check fares for other journeys, see the How to buy European train tickets page.
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The journey planner at www.bahn.de can also be accessed directly in English as http://reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/query.exe/e.
Buy a copy online...What's inside? |
The Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable...
Buy the latest edition online What does it contain?
Published since 1873, the world-famous Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable is the train traveller's bible, and a sound investment for all regular European train travellers. It has route maps and up-to-date timetables for trains, buses and ferries in all European countries, trains in Asian Turkey and Asia Russia including the Trans-Siberian railway, ferries to North Africa & the Mediterranean islands. If you're going to travel a lot, for example with an InterRail or Eurail pass, you should definitely buy one to plan your journey. It will save you a lot of time at stations queuing up to ask questions and puts you in control of your own journeys. Although it's published monthly, most travellers only need to buy two a year, in June and December, as European timetables only change in those months. In fact, even using a Thomas Cook Timetable that's way-out-of-date is better than travelling blind! It costs £14.99 from the bureau de change in selected UK branches of Thomas Cook, or you can buy online at www.thomascooktimetables.com (with worldwide delivery). Alternatively, you can buy the Independent Travellers special edition at Amazon.co.uk, Winter/Spring 2012/13 edition (Dec 2012 to June 2013) or (when available) Summer/Autumn 2013 edition (June to Dec 2013). More information on what the Thomas Cook Timetable contains.
Each country's own printed timetables...
If you really think you need it, you can buy the printed national timetable book for almost any European country from the Timetable Distribution Centre, www.timetables.ch, email sales@timetables.ch.
How
to check European train
fares & buy tickets
Although you can find most of Europe's train timetables in one place on www.bahn.de, unfortunately there isn't one website or booking agency that can sell tickets for all journeys in all countries at the best price (even if some agencies or sites like to suggest that they can!). Certain websites or booking agencies are better for some journeys than others, and sometimes it's cheapest to use two or more websites for different parts of one journey. Sounds complicated? Not really. If your train journey starts in the UK, the 'how to buy tickets' section on each country page of this website explains the best way to buy tickets for that specific journey. For other journeys within Europe, you'll find a detailed account of which websites or agencies to use for which specific journeys on the How to buy European tickets page, and if that's too complicated, here's the quick answer to get you started:
How to check fares & buy tickets for train journeys wholly within one country...
You can check fares & in many cases buy tickets online for journeys wholly within one country at the railway website for that country, see the links page for a complete list. For example:
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UK |
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France |
- www.voyages-sncf.com or (for UK residents) www.raileurope.co.uk. |
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Italy |
- www.trenitalia.com (see advice on using it) or www.italiarail.com. |
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Switzerland |
- www.sbb.ch (trains in Switzerland generally don't need pre-booking, easy to buy tickets at the station) |
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Spain |
- www.renfe.com (but first see the advice on using this system) |
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Portugal |
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Netherlands |
- www.ns.nl (trains in the Netherlands don't need pre-booking, so easy to buy tickets at the station) |
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Belgium |
- www.b-rail.be (trains in Belgium don't need pre-booking, so easy to buy tickets at the station) |
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Germany |
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Austria |
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Denmark |
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Sweden |
- www.sj.se (also try www.bokatag.se) |
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Norway |
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Finland |
How to check fares & buy tickets for international train journeys...
If your journeys starts in the UK, each country page of this website explains the best way to buy tickets for that specific destination, both online and by phone. For example, the London to Italy page recommends the best way to book tickets from the UK to key destinations all over Italy. For a detailed account of how to check fares and availability and book tickets online for other international train journeys in Europe, see the How to buy European tickets page. But here's the quick answer for which website to use or which agency to call for which journey:
Online...
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www.eurostar.com is the best place to check fares & buy tickets between London & Lille, Paris, Brussels or anywhere in Belgium, and will also book tickets from London to Cologne & Amsterdam.
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www.raileurope.co.uk is the best place for UK residents to check fares & buy tickets from London to France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Amsterdam, also Germany via Paris. It's linked to the French Railways reservation system, so is also good for any national or international train journey to, from or within France, and even can even sell tickets for many journeys within Italy, between Switzerland & Italy, between Vienna, Budapest, Prague, Krakow and so on. No booking fee for online bookings. Non-UK residents should use the French Railways website www.voyages-sncf.com, after reading this advice.
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Onward connections in Spain, Italy, etc. are often best booked separately using that country's own rail website, see the 'Journeys wholly within one country' section above. Why's this? Well, for example, www.raileurope.co.uk can book you all the way from London to Malaga via Paris & Madrid if you like, but can only sell full-fare £55 tickets for the Madrid-Malaga train. If you book this part of the trip separately direct with Spanish Railways at www.renfe.com, you can easily pick up a £30 'Promo fare' from Madrid to Malaga, or at least a £45 'Promo+' fare.
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A useful combo is to use either www.eurostar.com or www.b-europe.com to book London-Cologne then use www.bahn.de to book onward trains into Germany, or the sleeper trains from Cologne to Vienna, Prague, Copenhagen, Warsaw, etc. www.bahn.de can also book the sleeper trains from Amsterdam to Prague, Warsaw, Copenhagen, Munich, Zurich and so on, and many international trains to or from Germany.
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Remember that more exotic trips, such as journeys into Russia, Ukraine, Istanbul, cannot be booked online so will need to be booked by phone.
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For detailed advice on which website to use to book which European train journey, see the How to buy cheap European train tickets page.
By phone...
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For journeys from the UK to France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, also Germany via Paris, call Rail Europe on 0844 848 5 848 (lines open 09:00-19:00 Mon-Fri, 09:00-18:00 Sat, closed Sun, £8 booking fee). They use the French Railways reservation system, so have access to all the best fares to, from, via or within France.
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For journeys from the UK to Germany, Austria, central & eastern Europe or Scandinavia, call German Railways' UK office on 08718 80 80 66 (lines open 09:00-20:00 Mon-Fri, 09:00-13:00 weekends, no booking fee, just a small credit card fee). Also call them for any journey to, from or within Germany, Austria, central or eastern Europe & Scandinavia. They use the German Railways reservation system, so have all the cheap fares available for journeys to, from and within Germany.
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For journeys to, from or within Spain or Portugal, call www.spanish-rail.co.uk on 020 3137 4464 (lines open 09:30-13:30 & 14:30-17:30 Mon-Fri). They use the Spanish Railways reservation system, so have access to the cheap fares within Spain, whereas Rail Europe don't.
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More exotic journeys, for example to Russia, Ukraine or Istanbul can be booked with German Railway's UK office with no booking fee if you know exactly what you want and persevere if staff seem uncertain about a complex journey, but it's often better to call a smaller agency such as www.europeanrail.com because their staff are used to making complex bookings like these as they do them all the time. Call 020 7619 1083 (lines open 09:00-17:30 Mon-Fri, 09:00-13:00 Saturdays, £35 booking fee per total transaction, please tell them seat61 sent you!).
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Full details of these agencies and others are shown on the How to buy European tickets page.
Where
to find maps of European rail routes
Online rail maps
There's a basic online map of the European railway network at www.eurail.com/sites/all/files/eurail.com/downloads/2013/eurailmap-2013.pdf. This gives you a good idea of the extent of the European rail system, although it's intended for overseas visitors using Eurail passes so leaves out many routes in non-Eurail countries such as the UK, and leaves out many smaller lines even in the countries covered by Eurail passes. You'll find more detailed country-by-country rail maps at www.bueker.net/trainspotting/maps.php. For the best (and official) map of the Swiss rail system, click here. For advanced rail users, there's a detailed European Railway atlas covering the whole of Europe, www.europeanrailwayatlas.com, price £29.95 in a hard copy book form or you can download individual countries as PDF files for £3-6 each.
The Thomas Cook Rail Map of Europe: Buy from Amazon UK Buy from Amazon USA
For a decent map of all European train routes you'll really have to invest in a printed version. The Thomas Cook Rail Map of Europe is easily the best map of European train routes that there is, showing rail routes from Portugal in the west to Ukraine in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily in the south. Scenic & high-speed routes are highlighted. It costs around £8.99 from branches of Thomas Cook or you can buy online with a discount at Amazon.co.uk with worldwide delivery. Highly recommended and well worth buying, especially if you are buying an InterRail or Eurail pass and doing a lot of travelling. See an extract from the map.
Real-time
information for European trains
Are the trains running on time? Are there any delays, incidents or disruptions?
As with buying your ticket, there's no one website where you'll find out about delays, strikes or other problems affecting all European trains. You need to know which website to look at, so here is some guidance:
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Eurostar service updates: www.eurostar.com/UK/uk/leisure/customer_care/service_updates.jsp for updates on any disruption affecting the London-Paris, London-Brussels Eurostar service.
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London St Pancras arrivals & departures, see http://ojp.nationalrail.co.uk/service/ldbboard/dep/STP. Note that this shows domestic as well as Eurostar arrivals and departures.
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Paris arrivals & departures & trains in, to or from France: www.infolignes.com. This is a separate website for arrivals, departures & service updates run by French Railways (SNCF). Click the UK flag top right for English. You can search for problems or delays affecting a specified train number, route or station yesterday, today or in the next few days. www.infolignes.com covers French domestic trains and international trains to and from France (but for some reason not Eurostar!), so it's the one to check if you're heading to Switzerland, Italy or Spain via Paris.
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Brussels arrivals & departures: For real-time train arrivals & departures at Brussels Midi or any Belgian station, see www.railtime.be. If your train is a Thalys to Brussels or Paris, see www.thalys.com and look for the 'Traffic info' top left on their home page.
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Amsterdam arrivals & departures: For real-time train arrivals & departures at Amsterdam Centraal or any Dutch station, go to www.ns.nl, leave it in Dutch, click 'Reisinformatie' ('Travel information') top left then 'Actuele Vertrektijden' ('Actual departure times', the link disappears if you switch it to English!) For service updates, go to www.nshispeed.nl, click for English, click 'Search and book trip' then 'Service updates'. It may also be worth checking the German site (see below) if your train then crosses Germany. If your train is a Thalys to Brussels or Paris, see www.thalys.com and look for the 'Traffic info' top left on their home page.
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Italian arrivals & departures: www.viaggiatreno.it. Like the French, Trenitalia has a separate website for real-time train running and service updates. www.viaggiatreno.it will show you how trains are running by train number, station or route.
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Spanish service updates: Go to www.renfe.com, click 'welcome' for English' then 'Notices' top right. Use Google translate as necessary, as the updates are in Spanish.
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German arrivals & departures: If you train crosses Germany, see http://reiseauskunft.bahn.de/bin/bhftafel.exe/en?ld=212.92&rt=1&. This will give you current real-time arrival and departure information for an German station, like looking at the departure board if you were at the station now. For general info about delays due to engineering work, see www.bahn.com/i/view/overseas/en/home/help/construction_work_overseas.shtml. Both pages are quite difficult to find from their home page, but do let me know when these links stop working! Alternatively, if you bring up a train that's currently running using the www.bahn.de journey planner, click on the sideways arrow to bring up details, then click on the train number, the complete end to end timetable for that train will appear in a new window, with minutes late (or early!) shown against each stop within Germany.
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For other countries, the place to start is the national rail operator website for that country, see here for a list.
Travelling by Eurostar
Eurostar is the excellent high-speed passenger train from London's St Pancras station to Paris & Brussels through the Channel Tunnel. Most journeys to Europe now start with a trip on Eurostar to Paris or Brussels. All 1st class fares include complimentary drinks and a meal, and all passengers have access to a bar car serving drinks and snacks. Remember that you need to check-in for Eurostar trains at least 30 minutes before departure (10 minutes for passengers with certain types of premium 1st class ticket, 60 minutes for Eurostars to Avignon or the French Alps) to allow for an airline-style security check. Eurostar does not run on Christmas Day.
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Eurostar information page: Times, fares, tickets, luggage & info about the Eurostar journey
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Eurostar website: www.eurostar.com
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A Eurostar at St Pancras... |
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Eurostar 1st class... |
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Eurostar 2nd class... |
Changing trains
& stations in Paris or Brussels
Changing trains & stations in Paris: See the Paris metro page
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Train journeys from the UK into Europe often involve a change of train and station in Paris. Eurostar arrives at the Gare du Nord, which is a 10 minute walk from the Gare de l'Est but a metro or taxi ride from the other Paris stations. See the Changing trains & stations in Paris page for advice on metro, RER and taxi travel, and an easy route guide. The Paris metro website is www.ratp.fr.
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If you want to spend some time in Paris, by all means take an earlier Eurostar on the outward journey or a later one on your return. There are left luggage lockers at several Paris rail stations if you need to leave your luggage somewhere.
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You can avoid the hassle of crossing Paris when travelling to many French destinations, by changing at Lille. See the France page.
Changing trains in Brussels...
![]() Visiting Central Brussels: If you've time to spare between trains, it's a 25 minute stroll from Brussels Midi station to the famous Grand Place (Grote Markt) in the city centre. Or hop on a train from Brussels Midi to Brussels Central, a transfer is free with a Eurostar ticket. For somewhere to eat, try the 'Aux Armes de Bruxelles' restaurant (www.armebrux.be)... |
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![]() When changing trains in Brussels: Arriving by Eurostar to catch an onward train to Cologne or Amsterdam, don't trail after the crowds shuffling slowly to the station exit! Nip down the escalators marked 'Connections' half way along the Eurostar platform. This descends to the 'Couloir Sud' subway between all platforms, a handy short cut to all other platforms... |
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![]() The main concourse at Brussels Midi station, a subway underneath the tracks... |
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Brussels Midi station: Eurostar arrives at platforms 1 & 2 at the main Brussels station, Bruxelles Midi in French, Brussel Zuid in Flemish, Brussels South Stn in English, it's all the same place. After stepping off the Eurostar, you walk past the front of the train off the end of the platforms and down the escalators, exiting the Eurostar terminal onto the main station concourse, which is a rather dark giant subway spanning the width of the station, underneath all the tracks. All long-distance trains use Brussels Midi station, including trains to Amsterdam, Cologne, Paris and all other destinations in Belgium, so changing trains is easy and only takes a few minutes.
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Top tip if you're changing onto a train to Cologne or Amsterdam: Be clever! Instead of following the crowd shuffling slowly off the end of the Eurostar platform, look for the down escalators marked 'Correspondances - conections' half way along the Eurostar platforms, roughly level with Eurostar coach 11, see the photo below right. Nip down this to the South Corridor ('Couloir Sud') which runs underneath the tracks linking all the platforms, quickly check the indicator boards then nip up an escalator again to the right platform for your onward train to Cologne or Amsterdam. Eurostar arrives at platform 1 or 2, Thalys & ICE trains to Cologne & Amsterdam leave from platforms 3, 4, 5 or 6, InterCity trains to Amsterdam normally leave from platforms 17, 18 or 19. Using the 'Couloir Sud' avoids the crowds and saves a useful few minutes compared to walking round via the main concourse if you've a tight connection! Note that this tip doesn't work in the other (towards-London) direction, as you need to check in at the Eurostar terminal off the main concourse, you can't use the South Corridor.
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Which platform for your onward train? Eurostar arrives at platforms 1 & 2 on the northwest side of the station, which make up the Eurostar terminal. Look for the indicator boards or TV screens showing train departures, then go up the escalators to the platform indicated for your onward train. Thalys high-speed trains to Cologne & Amsterdam normally leave from platforms 3, 4, 5 or 6. The hourly InterCity trains to Antwerp, Rotterdam and Amsterdam normally leave from platforms 17, 18 or 19. But always check the indicator boards!
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How long to allow for connections: Allow at least 20 minutes to change trains in Brussels on the outward journey. On the return journey, allow at least 40 minutes to change trains, which allows for the 30 minute Eurostar check-in as well as time to change trains.
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If you miss a connection in Brussels, see the advice here... Under the CIV international conditions of carriage and the Railteam promise, if you miss a connection because of a late running train, staff should stamp your ticket and allow you to take the next departure even if your ticket is theoretically non-changeable, please read the advice.
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Station facilities: Brussels Midi isn't my favourite station, I have to admit. But it has an increasing range of cafes and shops, including a mini-supermarket opposite the exit from the Eurostar terminal to buy food, wine or beer for your onward journey if you want to.
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Left luggage: There are left luggage lockers and a staffed left luggage office at Brussels Midi if you want to stash your bags while exploring Brussels. It's open 24 hours, just off the main concourse near the Eurostar terminal, see here for left luggage prices.
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Free train transfer to Brussels Central: All Eurostar tickets to Brussels allow a free transfer by frequent local train from Brussels Midi to Brussels Central for the famous Grande Place (Grote Markt) in the city centre. Just hop on any train that's shown as calling at Brussels Central and show your Eurostar ticket on board if asked (unlikely!). From Brussels Central it's a 5 minute walk to the Grande Place for some 'moules frites' and perhaps a 'Leffe Brune' beer or two. You can get a free tourist map from the dark blue tourist information kiosk at the platform 1 (Eurostar terminal) end of the station concourse near the exit to the street.
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Walking to Brussels city centre: If you prefer to walk, it's a 20-25 minute stroll from Brussels Midi station to the Grande Place in the city centre. Leave the station from the main doors on the Eurostar terminal (platform 1) side of the station, turn right, walk along the side of the station/tracks for a few minutes and then turn left along the Rue Stalingrad to central Brussels. Click here for a map of Brussels. Bus, tram & metro information for Brussels.
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Restaurants & bars near Midi station or the Grande Place: There are many cafes & bars in or near Brussels Midi, but for something a bit special, try the huge and modernistic 'Midi Station' restaurant, brasserie & bar, www.midistation.eu, which does a great steak tartare. It's opposite the main exit from Brussels Midi station on the platform 1 side of the station (the Eurostar terminal side). Just off the Grande Place in central Brussels there are vast numbers of 'tourist trap' restaurants, but avoid these and try the 'Aux Armes de Bruxelles', www.armebrux.be, which is one of the very few really good traditionally Belgian restaurants near the Grande Place. For a taste of Belgian beer whilst in Brussels, try the celebrated Delirium cafe near the Grande Place, www.deliriumcafe.be.
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Boarding Eurostar in Brussels: When heading back to London by Eurostar, you must check in at least 30 minutes before the Eurostar leaves (10 minutes with Business Premier tickets) by passing through the automatic ticket gates at the entrance to the Eurostar terminal. This is just off the main station concourse underneath platforms 1 & 2. After the check-in gates comes the usual fairly painless X-ray security check then Belgian passport control followed by UK passport control, then you wait in the Eurostar departure lounge (where there's a cafe & bar) until your Eurostar is ready for boarding. Then it's up the escalators or lift to platform 1 or 2 an onto the train for London.
Sponsored links...
Travelling
by train + ferry
Most people now start their journey to Europe by Eurostar, but the ferry alternatives can be well worth considering.
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London-Paris: You can still travel from London to Paris by train + ferry if you want. It takes much longer (about 9 hours), is far less convenient and usually costs more than a cheap fare on Eurostar, but you avoid the Channel Tunnel if that's an issue for you, you get to sail across the Channel from the White Cliffs of Dover, and it can sometimes be cheaper if you have to travel at short notice and all the cheap Eurostar tickets have sold out. For more information, see the London to Paris by train + ferry page.
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London-Amsterdam: There is a really excellent, convenient low-cost train+ferry service from London to Amsterdam or any station in the Netherlands, see the Netherlands page. Travelling from central London to central Amsterdam overnight with a bed in a comfortable cabin on board the ship (all cabins with shower, toilet, free WiFi & satellite TV!) can be more time-effective than using Eurostar or even a flight.
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UK to Spain & Denmark: There are excellent cruise ferries direct from the UK to Spain & Denmark, a stress-free and highly-recommended way to get there. However, the last regular ferry from the UK to Norway was withdrawn in September 2008 and there are now no ferries to Sweden.
North of England or Scotland to mainland Europe: If you live in the north of England or Scotland, there are direct cruise ferries from Newcastle to IJmuiden (Amsterdam) with www.dfds.co.uk, Hull to Rotterdam & Zeebrugge with www.poferries.com. These can sometimes be better than taking a train to London and Eurostar onwards. www.bahn.de will tell you train times from Zeebrugge or Rotterdam onwards to Paris or Brussels. There are direct overnight sleeper trains from Amsterdam to Prague, Vienna, Milan, Munich, Warsaw, Copenhagen & Switzerland, making the route via Holland/Amsterdam very handy. More information.
West Country or South Coast to mainland Europe: If you live in the West Country or along the South Coast, you may prefer taking a ferry direct to France, then a train to Paris. More information.
If you prefer train+ferry travel, simply substitute the rail-sea-rail times shown on the London to Paris by train + ferry page or Netherlands page for the Eurostar times to Paris shown on the Italy, Spain, Germany, Austria, Switzerland pages, or use the all-Europe online timetable at www.bahn.de to find train times from the port (for example, Hoek van Holland) to your final destination.
Should
you go 1st or 2nd class?
![]() 2nd class seats, arranged 2+2 across the car width. This is a TGV Duplex. |
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![]() 1st class seats on the same TGV Duplex, arranged 2+1 across the car width. Fewer seats per car, more leg & elbow room. Tables for 2 as well as tables for 4. That's it. |
2nd class is perfectly adequate for most travellers throughout Europe. You do not need to pay for a 1st class ticket to travel in comfort these days, even in Eastern Europe, especially on the fast modern air-conditioned express trains. If you're on a budget, don't bother with 1st class unless you are offered prices that make it very cheap to upgrade.
What extra do you get if you go 1st class? First class gets you wider seats, plusher seats, more leg and elbow room, and fewer passengers per coach. In most cases, that's all. Luggage room is exactly the same, although with fewer passengers per coach using it, of course. On a few premier trains including Eurostar, Spanish AVE, Alvia & Altaria trains, Thalys & Lyria, 1st class fares include an at-seat service of food and drink. But these trains are the exceptions. Unless you're told otherwise, you should assume that a 1st class ticket simply gets you a nicer seat with more leg and elbow room, surrounded by more business laptop users and fewer families and kids. On German ICEs and Austrian Railjets, food and drink is not included so costs extra, but in 1st class your order will be taken and refreshments served at your seat by a steward, whereas in 2nd class you'll have to go to the cafe or restaurant car yourself.
1st class travel can be an affordable treat. Don't decide until you see the price! Many train operators have adopted airline-style variable pricing, and you might find 2nd class for (say) €40 and 1st class for (say) €45 because of the way the price quotas have worked in each class. In these circumstances, you'd be crazy not to pay a bit extra to treat yourself to the extra comfort.
Table for two? First class cars generally have seats arranged 2+1 across the width of the car (meaning 2 seats abreast, then aisle, then one solo seat), hence the wider seats with more elbow room compared to 2+2 seating in 2nd class, see the photos on the right. So in a typical first class car you'll find tables for two as well as tables for four - if you're a couple, facing each other across an intimate table for two, both of you getting a window seat that's also an aisle seat is a key advantage of going 1st class. As is booking a 'solo' seat if you're travelling alone.
Train seat numbering plans: Click here for train seating plans
On overnight trains, whether you have a 1st or 2nd class ticket is almost irrelevant, as your comfort depends on the type of sleeping accommodation you pay for: Ordinary seat, couchette, or sleeping-car. A 2nd class couchette is more comfortable (and more secure) than a 1st class seat. A 2nd class sleeper is more comfortable than a 1st class couchette. In fact, on many routes only a 2nd class ticket is now needed even for a 2-berth sleeper. The options for travelling on overnight trains are explained in the next section.
First
class lounges at stations
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A typical first class lounge. This one is the NS HiSpeed first class lounge at Amsterdam Centraal, available for anyone with a valid first class international ticket or railpass. It offers complimentary tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine & beer... |
In some countries, you'll find first class lounges at stations, usually with complimentary tea, coffee, soft drinks or even beer and wine available. WiFi and an internet PC may also be available. Sometimes the lounge is for anyone with a first class ticket (including a first class railpass), but in some countries the lounges are only for holders of the most expensive business-orientated first class tickets or for holders of that particular train operator's special frequent traveller card. Opening times vary, the lounges may or may not be of use when catching a late-night sleeper. Here's a quick guide:
Eurostar first class lounges in London, Paris & Brussels...
Eurostar has first class business lounges at London St Pancras, Paris Nord & Brussels Midi. These are open to holders of full-price Business Premier first class tickets, but not to holders of Standard Premier first class tickets, or to first class railpass holders. The Eurostar business lounges offer complimentary tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, and snacks.
Lounges open to all 1st class ticket holders...
The following countries have lounges for first class passengers at their major stations open to anyone with any first class ticket including reduced-rate ones and (in a few cases) first class Eurail or InterRail passes. The lounges have complimentary refreshments and other benefits such as WiFi.
Netherlands: At Amsterdam Centraal, Schiphol, Rotterdam. Follow signs for 'NS HiSpeed Lounge'. Search www.nshispeed.nl for opening times. Tea, coffee, soft drinks, beer and snacks available. For anyone with a 1st class international ticket including 1st class railpasses, but not Dutch domestic tickets.
Switzerland: At Zurich Hauptbahnhof, located upstairs, follow signs for SBB Lounge. Open to holders of any international 1st class ticket including 1st class railpasses but not Swiss domestic tickets. Tea, coffee, soft drinks, beer and snacks available.
Germany: At Berlin, Bremen, Dresden, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt am Main, Frankfurt Main Airport, Hamburg, Hanover, Cologne, Leipzig, Mannheim, Munich, Nuremberg, Stuttgart. Usually open 07:00-21:00 daily, follow signs for 'DB Lounge', search www.bahn.de for details These German lounges are not open to railpass holders. Tea, coffee, soft drinks, beer and snacks available.
Austria: At Vienna Westbahnhof, Salzburg, Innsbruck. Not open to railpass holders. Follow signs to ÖBB Lounge. Soft drinks and snacks available, alcoholic drinks only after 18:00.
Spain: At Madrid Atocha, Madrid Chamartin, Barcelona Sants, and several other stations. Open to anyone with a Club, Preferente or Gran Clase domestic or international ticket. Typically open from 06:00 to 22:00 every day. You can use them from 2 hours before your train leaves until departure. Tea, coffee, soft drinks, beer and snacks available.
Hungary: Budapest has a business lounge near platform 9, open 06:00-21:30 daily open for anyone with a 1st class international ticket to. from or via Budapest. Not open to railpass holders.
Lounges only open to certain first class ticket holders...
In France, Belgium, Italy & the United Kingdom there are first class lounges at major stations, but only for holders of full-price fully-flexible business-orientated first class tickets and/or holders of certain frequent traveller loyalty cards. They cannot be used just by anyone with a 1st class ticket.
If you are a 1st class passenger on Thalys and want to use the Grand Voyageur lounge at Paris Gare du Nord or the Thalys lounge at Brussels Midi with armchair seating and free drinks: Thalys trains run on the Paris-Brussels-Amsterdam and Paris-Brussels-Cologne high-speed routes. If you intend travelling on Thalys in 1st class, go to www.thalysthecard.com and apply online for a free 'Thalys TheCard' before buying your Thalys ticket. Then buy your 1st class Thalys tickets at www.thalys.com using your TheCard number. Your actual card will only be sent to you by post after you make the first booking using your TheCard number. Then you can then access the Thalys lounge at Brussels Midi (located in the Couloir Sud) or Grand Voyageur lounge at Paris Gare du Nord by showing your Thalys Card and any 1st class Thalys ticket for that day.
Travelling overnight
Many long-distance expresses run overnight, a very time-effective and romantic way to travel. Huge distances can be covered while you sleep, using up less daytime time than flying and often saving a hotel bill too. Forget the terms 'first class' & 'second class', these can actually be misleading when dealing with sleeper trains. On overnight trains, your comfort depends on whether you choose an ordinary seat, an economical couchette, or a comfortable berth in the sleeping-car. A 2nd class sleeper is more comfortable than a 1st class couchette!
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2-berth sleeper: A typical 2-berth sleeper, berths made up. |
The same sleeper, converted to a sitting room for evening/morning use. |
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Couchettes, 6-berth, with the bunks folded out. |
Couchettes, 4-berth: Much more room per passenger! |
Incidentally, trains don't have sterns or bows, or port or starboard. They also don't have cabins, as they are not a ship. The correct term is sleeper or couchette 'compartment'.
Click for sleeper & couchette car berth numbering plans - answers the regular worry 'We have berths 21 and 25, are we in the same 2-berth compartment?' (yes, you are!)
...in a sleeping-car
A sleeping-car is the equivalent of a hotel: A cosy bedroom, with comfortable beds, washbasin, and room service. For the daytime parts of a journey, the beds fold away to reveal a sofa. Sleepers come in 1, 2, 3 and (in a few cases) 4-berth varieties, depending on the route, whether you have a 1st or 2nd class ticket, and the price you want to pay. If you are travelling alone and don't want to pay for a 1st class single room, you can normally book just one berth in a 2 or 3-berth room and share with other passengers of the same sex (though this is not possible in Spanish 'gran classe' sleepers). In addition to the normal lock, sleeper compartments have a security lock which cannot be opened from outside even with a staff key, so you'll be both safe and snug. The most modern sleepers now have CCTV in the corridor, too.
A sleeper typically costs about £35-£45 in western Europe or £20-£35 in eastern Europe per person per night for a bed in a 3-berth compartment in addition to a 2nd class ticket or railpass. A berth in a 2-berth costs about £45-£65 per night in western Europe, £30-£45 in eastern Europe, plus either a 1st or 2nd class ticket or railpass depending on the route & type of sleeper. A single room costs around £70-£100 per night (£50-£70 in eastern Europe) and you must normally have a 1st class ticket or railpass. On an increasing number of routes (e.g. Paris to Madrid, Barcelona, Italy, and Brussels to Berlin), good-value inclusive fares are now charged, covering travel, sleeper & breakfast.
There's more detailed information about what to expect when travelling by sleeper on the Travelling by Sleeping-car or Couchette page. For more specific information about particular types of sleeper train, see the City Night Line page if your journey involves a City Night Line sleeper train such as Paris to Berlin, Paris to Munich, Amsterdam or Cologne to Prague or Copenhagen. See the Train Travel to Spain page if your journey involves the Elipsos 'trainhotels' from Paris to Madrid or Barcelona. See the Thello sleeper train page if it involves the 'Thello' sleeper trains from Paris to Italy. If it involves the Austrian EuroNight sleeper train from Cologne to Vienna see the ÖBB EuroNight sleeper train page.
...in a couchette
A couchette is rail's answer to a youth hostel or 'pensione': Economical and comfortable, it's an ordinary seating compartment for six people by day, with fold-out padded bunks for six people by night, each with sheet, rug & pillow which you arrange yourself. Male and female passengers normally share the same compartment (although there are 'ladies only' compartments on most routes), and apart from removing shoes & jackets, passengers do not normally undress. A berth in a 6-berth couchette compartment costs around €27 (£23) per berth per night, in addition to a 2nd class ticket or railpass. In addition to the normal lock, couchette compartments have a security lock which cannot be opened from outside, even with a staff key, so you'll be quite safe. On most routes you can pay a higher supplement (about €37 or £32) to travel in a less crowded 4-berth couchette compartment, which is well worth the extra cost. 1st class couchettes, with four berths per compartment, are rare - they are basically only operated in France.
There's more detailed information about what to expect when travelling by couchette on the Travelling by Couchette or Sleeping-car page. For more specific information, if your journey involves a City Night Line sleeper train see the City Night Line page. If your journey involves the 'trainhotels' from Paris to Madrid or Barcelona, see the Spain page. If it involves the 'Thello' Paris to Italy sleeper trains, see the Thello sleeper trains page. If it involves the Austrian EuroNight sleeper from Cologne to Vienna see the ÖBB EuroNight page.
...in a seat
Although it's the cheapest option, travelling overnight in an ordinary seat is a false economy and not recommended however tight your budget, either for comfort or security. There's no lock on the compartment door, and no staff on duty. Think of it as the equivalent (almost!) of sleeping in a shop doorway. Always budget for at least the couchette supplement for a comfortable night's journey. Some trains have reclining seats (French overnight trains, some German overnight trains, and some Spanish overnight trains), but although better than a normal seat they still don't offer the flat bed and safely locked compartment of a couchette or sleeper.
Types of train
EuroCity...
This is a generic brand name used for Europe's best international daytime expresses. EuroCity trains come in many different forms, but all are fast, modern and air-conditioned, and have refreshments available. In some countries (including Italy but not Switzerland, Germany or Austria), a small supplement is payable in addition to the normal fare to travel, which includes the seat reservation fee.
EuroNight...
This is a generic brand name used for Europe's best international overnight expresses. EuroNight trains come in many different forms, but all are modern and air-conditioned, and have comfortable sleeping accommodation. Morning coffee or tea is normally included in the sleeper or couchette supplement.
TGVs, ICEs, Thalys, InterCity & Talgos...
As well as EuroCity and EuroNight, you will find a whole range of train types in the timetable. Some are particular types of high-speed train, for example TGV, AVE, ICE. Some are just brand names for a particularly fast or high-quality train service for which a small supplement may be payable in addition to the normal fare. Others indicate a train service run by a special consortium of national rail operators, for example 'Thalys' is a company set up by the French, Belgian, German and Dutch national rail companies to run the Paris-Brussels-Amsterdam/Cologne high speed trains, and 'TGV-Lyria' is the consortium of the French and Swiss set up to run the Paris-Switzerland high-speed trains. Many of these branded trains have their own fare structure, and require railpass holders to pay a supplement or special passholder fare. If you particularly want to know what a TGV, AVE, Talgo, ICE or Thalys is, click here for a glossary of the main train types.
Travelling with kids
& child age limits
See the Train travel with kids page....
Luggage
& left luggage offices
See the Luggage on trains & left luggage at stations page ....
Taking bicycles on European trains
See the Taking your bike by train page....
Taking
your dog or other pet
See the Taking your dog or pet by train page
Passengers
with special
needs
Who to ask about train travel for people with special needs...
![]() A wheelchair space on Eurostar, in 1st class car 9 & 10. An accessible toilet is right next door. There are similar wheelchair spaces on Thalys trains from Brussels to Amsterdam & Cologne, and on TGVs from Lille to destinations all over France, and from Paris to Switzerland & Milan. |
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![]() Wheelchair-accessible 2-berth couchette compartment on City Night Line sleeper trains from Paris to Berlin, Paris to Munich, and Amsterdam or Cologne to Prague & Copenhagen, all with Eurostar connections from London. A huge access door from the corridor slides open at the touch of a button. |
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Wheelchair-accessible toilet: Right next door to the accessible couchette compartment on each City Night Line sleeper train is this wheelchair-accessible toilet, again with a sliding push-button door. |
In this section, you'll find a quick summary of facilities for people with special needs on routes from the UK to major European destinations. If you can help with further information from personal experience to improve this section, please email me! To make travel enquiries and/or arrange travel assistance at stations by phone:
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For journeys on Eurostar between London and Paris, Brussels or Lille, call Eurostar on 08432 186 186 or email them.
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For journeys from London to France, Spain, Portugal, Switzerland & Italy, call Rail Europe on 0844 848 5 848 (lines open 09:00-19:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-18:00 Saturday).
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For journeys from London to Germany, Scandinavia, eastern & central Europe, call Deutsche Bahn's UK office, on 0871 8 80 80 66 (lines open 09:00-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturdays & Sunday). DB can make arrangements to assist you at Paris East, Brussels Midi, in Germany and in other countries too, but you may also need to call Eurostar (08432 186 186 or email them) to arrange assistance at London St Pancras & Paris Gare du Nord.
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For detailed information on facilities for travellers with disabilities in each country, start with the website of the relevant national train operator, see the list of websites on the useful links page.
Travellers with disabilities on Eurostar to Paris, Lille or Brussels...
It's no problem to travel by Eurostar from London to Paris, Lille or Brussels, even if you're confined to a wheelchair or have other special needs. Each Eurostar train has a wheelchair space in 1st class cars 9 & 10, adjacent to a wheelchair-accessible toilet with push-button access. There are special fares for people travelling in wheelchairs and one travelling companion, giving 1st class travel at discounted 2nd class fares. You can book wheelchair travel online at www.eurostar.com, just click 'online booking' at the top, then look for the 'wheelchair user?' link below the booking form. If you tell Eurostar in advance, either when booking your tickets with an agency like Rail Europe or Deutsche Bahn's UK office, or by calling Eurostar direct on 08432 186 186 or emailing them after buying tickets online, Eurostar can provide assistance to passengers with special needs (whether this involves a wheelchair or not) at your departure and arrival stations, and on board the train. For more information, see the www.eurostar.com (click 'travel information' then look for 'special travel needs').
Wheelchair-accessible taxi service in Paris...
If you need to change trains & stations in Paris, there's a pre-bookable wheelchair-accessible taxi service run by www.taxis-g7.com (their website is only in French, but look for 'plan du site' then 'G7 Horizon'). To book, call +33 1 41 27 66 99 (English speaking line) or +33 1 47 39 00 91, making sure you ask for a wheelchair accessible taxi. There's a 5 euros booking fee, and bookings can be made from 7 days until 1 hour before you need the taxi. Gare du Nord to Gare d'Austerlitz for example costs 13-19 euros per taxi. Feedback from users of this service would be very welcome!
Travellers with disabilities, beyond Lille, Paris or Brussels...
Once on the Continent, many modern daytime trains have accommodation for passengers travelling in wheelchairs, and the City Night Line sleeper trains to destinations such as Munich, Berlin, Copenhagen, Vienna or Prague have wheelchair-accessible couchette compartments. Assistance at stations can be arranged through booking agencies such as Rail Europe or Deutsche Bahn's UK office. Here is a quick summary:
...to destinations in France:
Take Eurostar from London to Lille and make a simple same-station connection with a high-speed TGV to destinations all over France, including Nice, Marseille, Cannes, Bordeaux, Strasbourg, Toulouse, Avignon, Nantes, Nîmes & Montpellier. At Lille, there are both lifts & escalators to all four platforms. All TGV trains have wheelchair spaces and wheelchair-friendly toilets. For train times, see the London to France page. For travel information for passengers with disabilities on French Railways, see www.voyages-sncf.com.
...to destinations in Belgium & the Netherlands:
Take Eurostar to Brussels, and make a simple same-station change onto a high-speed Thalys train to Rotterdam, The Hague or Amsterdam Centraal. There are lifts to/from all platforms in Brussels. Thalys trains have wheelchair spaces and wheelchair-friendly toilets. For train times and how to buy tickets, see the London to the Netherlands page. You could also consider travelling by ferry, see www.stenaline.co.uk (Harwich-Hoek van Holland), www.dfds.co.uk (Newcastle-IJmuiden near Amsterdam).
...to destinations in Switzerland:
Take Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord, where there is level access off the platforms straight onto the concourse and the street. You will need to arrange transport from Paris Nord to Paris Gare de Lyon, for example using the wheelchair-accessible taxi. All the TGV-Lyria high-speed trains from Paris Gare de Lyon to Lausanne, Geneva, Bern, Basel & Zurich have wheelchair places and wheelchair-accessible toilets. For train times and how to buy tickets, see the London to Switzerland page.
...to destinations in Italy:
Take Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord. You will need to arrange transport across Paris to the Gare de Lyon, for example using the wheelchair-accessible taxi. Then take a daytime TGV train from Paris to Turin & Milan as these have wheelchair places and wheelchair-accessible toilets, for details see the Italy page. Alternatively, TGV-Lyria trains between Paris and Switzerland have wheelchair spaces and toilets, spend the night in Geneva, Lausanne, Basel or Zurich then take a EuroCity train to Milan for onward connections to Rome, Florence, Venice or Naples. For details of this scenic option via Switzerland, click here. These EuroCity trains have wheelchair spaces an accessible toilets. Note that the Thello overnight sleeper trains from Paris to Italy do not have wheelchair-accessible compartments or toilets. Once in Italy, most fast trains including Frecciarossa, Frecciargento & Frecciabianca services between major Italian cities have wheelchair spaces and wheelchair-accessible toilets. For train times and how to buy tickets, see the London to Italy page.
...to destinations in Spain:
The trainhotels from Paris to Barcelona and Madrid are excellent (see the London to Spain page), but they don't have wheelchair-accessible toilets or sleeping compartments, so passengers in wheelchairs need to be able to access their sleeper on foot, and fold up the wheelchair. The daytime London-Barcelona option described on the London to Spain page involves 3 trains all of which have wheelchair spaces and wheelchair-accessible toilets. There are direct ferries from the UK to Spain, with disabled/wheelchair facilities. See www.Brittany-Ferries.co.uk (Plymouth-Santander, Portsmouth-Santander & Portsmouth-Bilbao).
..to destinations in Germany & Austria:
Take Eurostar to Brussels or Paris. In Brussels it's a simple same-station change with lifts to/from all platforms. In Paris, it's a 10-15 minute walk or wheelchair push from the Gare du Nord where Eurostar arrives to the Gare de l'Est where the trains to Germany depart. From Brussels, there are Thalys high-speed trains to Cologne all with wheelchair spaces and wheelchair-friendly toilets. From Cologne, there are wheelchair spaces and wheelchair-friendly toilets on almost all the InterCity (IC) and InterCityExpress (ICE) trains to destinations all over Germany. Boarding assistance can be provided at most major Germany stations. From Paris Gare de l'Est there are direct TGV trains to Stuttgart, Munich, Frankfurt all with wheelchair spaces and wheelchair-accessible toilets. The direct City Night Line overnight train from Paris to Hanover, Berlin, Stuttgart, Ulm, Augsburg & Munich also has a wheelchair-accessible 2-berth couchette compartment with adjacent wheelchair-friendly toilet, see the photo above. Onwards trains from Munich to Innsbruck, Salzburg & Vienna have wheelchair spaces, too. For train times, fares & how to buy tickets, see the London to Germany page. There is a handicap brochure with more information on the Germany Railways website, www.bahn.de.
...to Vienna, Copenhagen, Prague:
Take Eurostar to Brussels, where it's a simple same-station change with lift access to/from all platforms. The Thalys and ICE high-speed trains from Brussels to Cologne all have wheelchair spaces and wheelchair-friendly toilets. In Cologne it's also a simple same-station change with lifts to all platforms. The City Night Line sleeper trains from Cologne to Copenhagen and Prague all have a 2-berth wheelchair-accessible couchette compartment with adjacent wheelchair-friendly toilet, see the photo above. For train times and how to buy tickets, see the London to Austria page, London to the Czech Republic page, or London to Denmark page.
Traveller's reports: With a wheelchair from London to Croatia!
Traveller Andrew Farrow went from London to Croatia by train in a wheelchair, in 2012: I’m a permanent wheelchair user, with a 'normal' manual wheelchair. I need a ramp to get on to a train. I can, with assistance, transfer to a normal seat and my wheelchair can be folded away - people with bigger or electric wheelchairs might have a different experience. Because of the hassle of sorting out ramps and assistance, I’d allow a minimum of at least 30 minutes to change trains at any station, preferably a lot longer. And despite the European Community supposedly being a place of common rules and regulations, this does not seem to apply to rail travel in a wheelchair, where each country has its own approach. Each country has different rules about companions or carers and a different mechanism for dealing with wheelchairs. From my experience so far, you need to be willing to be lifted in and out of trains, to accept not always being able to get to a toilet, to have to transfer from your chair and to have a lot of patience. That said, because of my wheelchair we met far more people and had far more wonderful encounters with strangers than we would have done otherwise. Everywhere people were enormously friendly and helpful: partly as a result of my London–Split trip, I’ve decided I will now travel in Europe only by train.
I booked my Eurostar ticket online, a very easy process. The
Paris–Split travel was all arranged by Deutsch Bahn’s London
office (0871 880 8066). However, Deutsch Bahn could only
arrange assistance in Germany, not Croatia.
1. London - Paris: Eurostar is wonderful for
wheelchair users. There are only two wheelchair spaces in
the entire train, so it’s worth booking early if you have to
catch a specific train. Assistance does not need to be
booked in advance, you don’t need to turn up especially
early and you can check in at the normal check in desks. A
(very grand) ramp is provided in both London and Paris (Gare
du Nord).
2. Paris - Munich: Following your advice, we caught
the overnight train from Paris Gare de l’Est, leaving at
20:05, arriving Munich 07:10. This was a fantastic journey:
we had an entire compartment to ourselves, although others
could access the toilet! Instead of a four person couchette,
our compartment was a two person couchette with a lot of
extra room for wheeling about. Similarly, the toilet was
enormous, with huge amounts of room. With this level of
luxury, I doubt whether they can accommodate more than one
wheelchair user, so book early. You need to get to Gare de
L’Est at least half an hour before the train leaves and go
to the Special Assistance office to find a staff member who
will then find a ramp for you. We had to wait in Munich for
a little while for a ramp to be found.
3. Munich – Zagreb: Deutsch Bahn wouldn’t allow us to
catch the suggested 08:27 from Munich to Zagreb as they said
that there wouldn’t be enough time to make the change from
one train to another (That actually turned out quite well,
because when we arrived in Munich, we discovered it was
Oktoberfest, so had time to walk down to the venue and
experience literally tens of thousands of Germans in
lederhosen celebrating and sampling enormous quantities of
beer). Instead, they booked us on to the direct train to
Zagreb leaving Munich at 12:27 and arriving Zagreb at 20:53,
no changes necessary.
Getting on the train in Munich was fine. However, this
journey would not be possible for someone who cannot
transfer from their wheelchair: I had to transfer from my
chair to a seat at the end of the compartment as the
corridor was too narrow to wheel down. There is no separate
wheelchair space, and my chair had to be folded up. Given
this experience, I doubt whether the toilet was accessible
(I didn’t check). It was a comfortable train though, and the
conductor very helpfully brought food and beer to our seats.
I was unsure what would happen when we got to Zagreb or
Split. Whilst I had found contact details for Croatian
Railways and did have an email conversation discussing what
train times and carriages I was in (“We need these details
so we could be able to organized your transportation”), I
didn’t actually have confirmation that assistance or ramps
would be available. In Zagreb, a ramp was eventually found
and we descended. It’s an accessible station with no steps.
We stayed the night in the Esplanade Hotel, about five
minutes walk from the station and a glorious Art Deco hotel
with very reasonable prices. It used to be the preferred
venue for travellers stopping off en route on the old Orient
Express leg from Istanbul to Zagreb apparently. This allowed
us a morning to explore Zagreb, where there’s an original
carriage from the Orient Express that’s been turned into a
bar.
4. Zagreb – Split: We left Zagreb at 14:04, arriving
Split at 20:37. We arrived at Zagreb station 45 minutes
before the train was due to leave and after a lot of
confusion and discussion at the information desk, got taken
to a side office and eventually a ramp was arranged. Again,
I had to transfer from my wheelchair. Again, I doubt whether
there were accessible toilets on board. At Split, no ramp
but lots of strong helpful men to get me down. An accessible
station, no steps.
Traveller Jill Lindenbauer travelled from London to Valencia by train with her young son who uses a wheelchair. She reports: "I feel so lucky to have Ebbsfleet International on my doorstep, and the staff which assisted William and I certainly made us feel like VIPs. It was no trouble boarding the train and as William's carer we were privileged to sit in 1st class as this is where the wheelchair seating is situated, even though we only paid 2nd class fares. Immediately we were asked if we wanted a drink, and a meal was provided, which I wasn't expecting. It certainly got the holiday off to a good start, and whilst travelling I received a call from the English-speaking G7 Taxi service in France to say that our wheelchair-accessible taxi would be waiting when we arrived in Gare Du Nord. This is a quick and easy service to use and I booked our taxi in advance from the comfort of my own living-room.
When William and I reached Gare Du Nord that sunny evening there was the same buzz of activity as the ramp was prepared for the wheelchair, and a porter took my bags. I soon spotted my name on a white piece of card, but I'm guessing the taxi driver spotted my son and I as we made our way along the platform. The taxi driver took my bag and led the way to his vehicle outside. He swiftly organised the ramp and pushed William in his chair inside, where he secured William's wheelchair to the car floor with belts. The politeness and assistance of the taxi driver made our short trip effortless and at Gare D'Austerlitz he escorted us to the Information Office. The taxi cost 40-50 euros, but the meter was probably running as we are leaving the train and as we are about the last to leave as we wait for special assistance this is a small price to pay.
At Gare d'Austerlitz the woman in the information desk shook her head as she saw my little boy's heavy manual wheelchair surrounded by luggage, and made hand signals to indicate how small the trenhotel to Barcelona was. Around 8pm it arrived. The guard checked my ticket, which clearly stated "disabled passenger," and showed me our Gran Clase 2-berth sleeper, which was the first one adjacent to the dining-car. Unfortunately I could see that there was no way I was going to be able to board the train or enter our cabin with the wheelchair, which was just a few centimetres too wide. So I unbelted William and sat him in the cabin propped up with some luggage and quickly dismantled the wheelchair which divides into three pieces, the main chair does not and this I placed on the second seat, the wheels disappeared into the shower area, and we soon had the cabin looking homely, as I sat William on my lap.
Dinner arrived as it was evident that we wouldn't be very popular blocking the dining-car. I was quite content eating and watching the scenery, but like most children my son was not happy with his dinner, even though there was a children's menu, so one of our rucksacks carried extra food supplies just in case! Our bed was made and sleep was welcome. All our luggage was on the top berth and made the cabin nice and spacious. The rolling and rattling of the carriages made me feel like I was being rocked in a cradle. Morning arrived, breakfast was served and Barcelona appeared. William and I were sitting in Parc De La Ciutadella in Barcelona at 9am, waiting for our final connection to Valencia. At 10am we went to the Information Desk at the station, where they were expecting us. Unfortunately there was no ramp to be seen, and so I carried William on board whilst the female assistant asked a member of the public to help her place the wheelchair on the train. There was a special area for this, which is called the "H" Seat. In comparison to the Trenhotel this train looked newer and wider. The scenery along the coast was breathtaking, making us feel like peeping toms, as we would spurt through a dark tunnel to be met by bright sunlight and naked bodies on golden beaches. The journey passed quickly as the train filled and emptied at seaside stations. At one time the wheelchair was covered by a sea of other people's suitcases, which was a good thing William sat with me for most of the time. As the train pulled into Valencia I was geared up to take William off myself, but the three young men in uniforms bearing the wheelchair logo were already in the process of operating the ramp, and we became a fascinating spectacle for the Spanish public.
My tearful sister was there to greet us, waiting to hear of our travels, which I found to be fun and hassle free. Unlike the madness of airports and wondering if you are going to see your bags again I found the whole experience graceful and dignified. William and I and the faithful wheelchair by our side feel like we actually travelled and saw life, rather than being catapulted into the air, looking at the sky for a couple of hours, and then being trundled onto a bus to go and search for our luggage. When we returned we knew the process so it was even easier and the same taxi driver asked how we got on. The only problem was both lifts at Gare Du Nord were out of action until 10th August, but I carried William up the escalator and my assistant at the station took the wheelchair.
When
things go wrong...
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It's remarkable how well European train travel normally works. High-speed trains in western Europe typically exceed 90% on time or within 15 minutes, whilst competing short-haul airlines struggle to reach 68%-78%. Over the last few years I've travelled back from Croatia to London by train whilst volcanic ash grounded all flights for a week, I've taken the ferry to the Netherlands for Christmas spot on time with our in-cabin TV showing endless news about Heathrow's closure due to snow, I have travelled to Seville in Spain by train and got there ahead of airline passengers who found Heathrow closed for several days due to fog. Indeed, the most usual feedback I get is that people's trips around Europe by train all worked like clockwork, until they got back to London and their train home was 45 minutes late! But realistically, things do occasionally go wrong, so here's a few things you should know.
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Plan realistic connections to start with. It usually takes only a minute or two to physically change trains, but you need to allow for any likely delay to the first train, and also take into account the consequences of missing the onward train. For example, if you miss a Swiss InterCity train, you can simply hop on the next one, but if you miss a sleeper train you're stuck, so allow longer to be on the safe side. On this website, I show connections which already take all this into account.
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Always take out travel insurance. Many rail tickets these days are non-refundable. If you or a close relative falls ill, for example, and you have to cancel your trip, you'll usually be able to claim the costs back through your travel insurance. However, few if any travel insurers understand multi-leg overland travel, so don't expect them to cover every missed connection as they may well not do so. Some insurers have a strange clause that only covers problems with the first direct leg from the UK, which basically means you're only covered for the effect of major delays as far as Paris or Brussels! I have yet to find an insurer who offers an overland travel insurance policy which covers the knock-on effects of major delays or strikes or cancellations to any one segment of the route. Insurers take note, there's a gap in the market!
If you miss a connection...
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If you miss a connection, don't worry! Get your ticket endorsed by staff on board the delayed train or at the station when you arrive. Ask station staff about getting re-booked on a later onward train. In practice, I'm pleased to say that Eurostar (for example) are very good about re-booking people on a later Eurostar from Paris or Brussels back to London, free of charge, if (for example) the sleeper from Italy has been seriously delayed arriving in Paris, even if you have a non-changeable Eurostar ticket.
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The CIV conditions of carriage... International train tickets are issued subject to the CIV international conditions of carriage, you'll see the letters CIV printed in a corner of the ticket. Amongst other things, the CIV say that if you miss a connection due to a train delay, you are entitled to be carried forward by the next available onward train, even if your ticket is only valid on the train you've missed and theoretically non-changeable. It doesn't matter who operates which train, this applies whether the trains concerned are operated by the same or different train companies. And in theory, if you miss a last train, you are entitled to be found a hotel for the night.
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...but there's a grey area in the CIV: However, you need to be aware of a grey area. Fortunately, most operators will honour the CIV in practice and let you travel onwards on a later train, but when they are pushed into a corner and (for example) asked to pay for a hotel (especially if it's due to another operator's delay, not theirs) or asked to refund money that you forked out for new onward rail tickets off your own bat without asking to be re-booked free of charge, they often claim that the CIV only applies to 'through tickets'. So you'd definitely be covered if, for example, you bought a London to Cologne 'London Spezial' and miss a connection in Brussels, or buy a London to Marseille through ticket at eurostar.com and miss a connection in Paris, as these are one fare bought on one website as one transaction and usually (but not always) printed on one ticket. But according to this argument, you wouldn't be covered if you bought your London-Paris ticket at eurostar.com and your Paris-Marseille ticket at voyages-sncf.com. And you may or may not be covered if you bought both tickets together at (say) Raileurope.co.uk, depending on whether this is seen as one contract (with Rail Europe) or two contracts (one with each train operator, with Rail Europe simply acting as agent for each). So it's as clear as mud! But in fact the CIV themselves say absolutely nothing at all about whether the connectional protection applies only to through journeys which are bought in one place or ticketed on one rather than two or three bits of paper, or if they apply to all through journeys however they are ticketed. The CIV were written when through tickets existed for all journeys and were the norm, the current fragmentation of the rail industry means people must now make through journeys on separate tickets often bought from different websites to get the appropriate fare. The train companies' argument relies on it somehow being 'implied' by the CIV that this connectional protection only applies to through journeys ticketed in a specific way rather than another way. In my view, the passenger is making a through journey, the CIV still apply to each ticket, the passenger still needs that protection for missed connections more than ever, and it's still in the train companies' collective best interests to help their passengers when things go wrong. In this case I'm not convinced the CIV are still fit for purpose in today's fragmented world.
The Railteam Promise...
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But at last there's some good news. An alliance called Railteam (www.railteam.eu) has been formed by Eurostar and the German, French, Belgian, Dutch, Swiss and Austrian Railways. Over and above the CIV connectional protection (which may or may not apply), Railteam have said that if you miss a connection due to a train delay between any two trains run by Railteam members at any designated Railteam hub station, which includes Lille Europe, Brussels Midi, Cologne and Frankfurt, you will be allowed to hop on the next onward train to reach your destination, without having to change your ticket, sitting in any available seat. See www.railteam.eu.
Missed connections in Brussels...
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It doesn't happen often... Eurostar and other high-speed trains typically exceed 90% of arrivals on time or within 15 minutes, significantly better than competing airlines. And changing trains in Brussels from Eurostar to Thalys or ICE takes just 2 or 3 minutes if you use the connections escalator half way along the Eurostar platforms as explained above.
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But if it does happen, here's some useful advice to get you back on the move... If you miss an onward connection in Brussels between Eurostar and an onward Thalys or ICE to Amsterdam or Cologne, don't worry. Simply go to the SNCB (Belgian railways) international booking centre, off the main concourse below the tracks, next to the entrance to the Eurostar terminal between platforms 3 & 2. There's a queuing system, press the Railteam button which I believe gives you priority. Explain the situation and ask for the Railteam stamp on your ticket that allows you to hop on the next train. It shouldn't matter whether the next train is an ICE or Thalys, both are members of Railteam. Feedback is always appreciated! If your onward travel is by InterCity train to domestic Belgian destinations or to Luxembourg or the Netherlands via Roosendaal, you'd just get on the next train, no other action necessary as your ticket will be valid on any train in any case.
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If the 18:25 ICE from Brussels to Cologne is cancelled and you have onward connections in Cologne with the 22:28 sleeper trains to Prague or Copenhagen, don't worry, there's a 19:28 Thalys arriving Cologne at 21:15 which still gives plenty of time to connect with the sleeper. However, following recent feedback, after getting your ticket stamped as explained above, I recommend that you simply exercise your rights and get on the 19:28 Thalys of your own accord, so safely maintaining your connection, politely ignoring/declining any announcements or staff who suggest you take a slow train to Verviers, a bus to Aachen for a 40 minute wait for a local train to Cologne, as you will then arrive in Cologne 2½ hours late and miss that sleeper connection. Naturally, you may have to use the tip-up seats in the entrance vestibules on the Thalys if it's full, but it's not a long journey. Politely explain to the Thalys traincrew that you have onward sleeper train connections in Cologne, and cite the Railteam Promise and CIV conditions of carriage.
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If you miss a Eurostar connection in Brussels on your journey back to London, just ask Eurostar staff for help in the Eurostar terminal.
Traveller's report...
A traveller reports: "I got to my local station and there were no trains going anywhere! There had been an emergency that stopped all trains for half an hour or so in the early morning rush hour, just when I needed to get to London for the 8.30am Eurostar to Paris and TGV down to Toulon, with train-specific tickets all the way. So what do you do? I just went to the ticket office when I reached London - they had the emergency flagged up on their computer screens and just wrote me a docket/stamped and signed it and on I went. At St Pancras, I did the same - went to the Eurostar ticket office and they stamped the unused tickets, issued new ones and off I went. At Gare de Lyon, I went to the ticket office, showed them all the dockets, stamped, stapled and initialled tickets and again they just issued me a ticket for the next train."
Holidays
& escorted tours by train
If you want a holiday to Europe by train, but want someone else to organise all the train tickets & hotels for you with no hassle, several good specialist companies do just that. Railbookers offer tailor-made individual holidays with departure on any date you like and an itinerary adjusted to suit your requirements, whereas Treyn Holidays & Great Rail Journeys offer escorted tours with specific departure dates and you travel in company with a group of like-minded travellers and a professional tour manager. Either way, you get a stress-free holiday to Italy, Switzerland, Spain, France, eastern Europe or even Morocco overland by train, with regular departures from London by Eurostar, no flying, no airport hassles and no whole days spent in cramped coach seats on motorways. Seat61 gets some commission to support the site if you book your holiday through these links or phone numbers, please quote 'seat61' when booking.

Railbookers,
www.railbookers.com...
Railbookers can tailor-make a holiday or short break by train to most European countries for you, with train travel & carefully-chosen hotels, for however long you like, leaving on any date you like. If you tell them what you want, they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels and sort it all out for you. They look after their customers well and get a lot of repeat business, so I've no hesitation in recommending them.
UK call 020 3327 0761,
www.railbookers.com.

Call toll-free 1-800-408-3280 or
www.us.railbookers.com.
Australia call toll-free
1300 971 526,
www.railbookers.com.au.
New Zealand call toll-free 0800 002 034 or
see
website.
Treyn Holidays,
www.railholidays.com,
01904 730 727...

Treyn Holidays run escorted group tours to a number of European countries, with 3* or 2* hotels and overland travel from the UK by Eurostar and high-speed TGV. Popular tours include:
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9-day tour from London to Bologna, Florence, Venice & Rome, by train from London from £795 per person
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8-day tour combining Mont Blanc with the fantastic Glacier Express across Switzerland, by train from London from £695
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10-day tour to Vienna, Prague & Berlin, by train from London from £795.
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6-day Rhine cruise from £615, by train from London.
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See www.railholidays.com for more options...
Great Rail
Journeys,
www.greatrail.com, 01904 527120...

Great Rail Journeys runs five-star inclusive escorted tours from the UK to many European countries, with 1st class train travel and 5* or 4* hotels. Check the tour details online, then call 01904 527120 to book or use their online booking form. Tours include:
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14-day Grand Tour of Italy with travel by train from London to Florence, Venice & Rome, from £2,195;
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Bay of Naples, Capri & Amalfi with travel by train from London, from £1,795;
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Switzerland & the amazing Glacier Express with travel by train from London, from £1,280;
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Vienna, Budapest & Prague by train from London, from ££1,750;
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Marrakech Express, a remarkable 5* tour from London to Madrid, Seville, Tangier & Morocco overland by train from £2,395;
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Train + cruise from London to Rome, Naples, Athens, Mykonos, Kusadasi, Istanbul, Alexandra, Cairo, by train & Princess Cruises, from £2,350;
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See www.greatrail.com for more options...
Recommended
guidebooks
Rail travel guides...
There are several good guidebooks specifically
to help you travel by train to and around Europe, including my own book published in June 2008
and revised in April 2010. Based on this site, it's a handbook for travel by train or ferry from the UK to
almost anywhere in Europe. Then there's 'Flight Free Europe', packed with ideas for
short breaks & longer holidays in Europe by train rather than air.
'Flight-free Europe'
even includes a picture of yours truly in a text box about
seat61.com a few
pages in, but don't let that put you off. Finally, 'Europe by Rail'
combines city guides with train information for a tour of Europe.
General country guidebooks...
People sometimes think a guidebook is an unnecessary expense, but it's a tiny fraction of what you're spending on your whole trip. You will see and understand so much more if you have a decent guidebook. For the independent traveller, I think the best ones out there are either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide. Both guidebooks are excellent, and you won't regret buying one!
Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk or buy in the USA at Amazon.com...
Hotels
& accommodation in Europe
Find hotels anywhere in Europe...
◄◄◄◄ Search all the main hotel booking sites at once...I'm a big fan of www.hotelscombined.com as it checks all the main hotel booking sites (Opodo, Expedia, Booking.com, Hotels.com, AsiaRooms, LateRooms etc.) to find the widest choice of hotels & the cheapest rates. Try it and see! |
Other hotel sites worth trying...
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www.tripadvisor.com is a huge resource, a good place to browse independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.
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www.booking.com is my own preferred hotel booking system (Hotels Combined being a search/comparison system). It has a simple interface, a good selection in most countries worldwide, useful online customer reviews of each hotel, and decent prices, usually shown inclusive of unavoidable extras such as taxes (a pet hate of mine is systems that show one price, then charge you another!).
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www.venere.com. For Italy, Venere.com is worth checking as they have an especially good range of Italian hotels and guesthouses being an Italian-based company. The price you see is the price you pay, no hidden extras, and you simply pay the hotel when you get there. After you've booked, you can change or cancel your reservation in line with the hotel's own change and cancellation policy.
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www.accorhotels.com. In France, Accor Group run the good-quality & good-value Ibis, Mercure & Sofitel brand hotels in almost all French cities. Worth a look if you want a hotel of known consistent quality in any French city. They have a variable pricing system - book in advance in off-peak periods and you can get a bargain.
Hotels near Paris Gare du Nord & other Paris stations:
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These hotels within 200 metres of the Gare de Nord get good reviews: Hotel Cambrai (54 euros for a double), Hotel Richmond (69 euros), Quality Hotel Gare du Nord (119 euros).
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These hotels within 200 metres of the Gare de Lyon get good reviews: Hotel Trianon (69 euros per night for a double room), Hotel Bel Oranger Gare de Lyon (80 euros), Hotel Terminus Lyon (98 euros), Hotel Marceau Bastille (140 euros).
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Hotels near the Gare de l'Est: Comfort Hotel Gare de l'Est. You'll also find some Accor group Ibis & Mercure hotels nearby.
Budget backpacker hostels...
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www.hostelbookers.com: If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about the backpacker hostels. Hostelbookers offers online booking of dorm beds or ultra-cheap private rooms in backpacker hostels in most European cities at rock-bottom prices.
Car hire
Take
the train into Europe, then hire a car:
www.holidayautos.co.uk
City centres and cars don't mix well, so stick with the train for city-based tours. But if you want to get out of the cities and into the countryside, hiring a car can be a great idea. Start by trying Holiday Autos, www.holidayautos.co.uk, they're part of Lastminute.com so are reliable and have a wide range of locations and very good prices.
Compare
50 different car hire companies:
www.carrentals.co.uk
The award-winning website www.carrentals.co.uk compares many different car hire companies including Holiday Autos, meaning not only a cheapest price comparison but a wider choice of hire and drop off location.
Travel insurance
& health card
Get travel insurance...
Never travel without insurance from a reliable travel insurer. It should give at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover, cover loss of cash (up to a limit) and belongings, and cancellation. An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy myself. Here are some suggested insurers. Seat61 gets a little commission if you buy through these links.
If you live in the UK, get quotes from
Columbus Direct or
Go Travel Insurance, or go to
Confused.com to run a price comparison on a whole range of
travel insurance providers for your dates of travel, seeing
their policy's features at a glance.
Post Office Travel Insurance: You can buy cheap travel insurance from Post Office®; single trip and annual multi trip travel insurance offering you comprehensive cover with a range of additional options.
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Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, but European international rail conditions of carriage (known as the CIV) contain consumer protection provisions that may safeguard connections, see the advice above. Feedback from using insurance for rail & ferry travel is always welcome.
If you live in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the
EU, see
Columbus Direct Australia.
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If you live in the USA or Canada, see
Travel Guard USA.
Get an EU health card...
If you're a UK citizen travelling in Europe, you should apply for a free European Health Insurance Card, which entitles you to free or reduced rate health care if you become ill or get injured in many European countries, under a reciprocal arrangement with the NHS. This replaced the old E111 forms as from January 2006. The EHIC card is available from www.ehic.org.uk. It doesn't remove the need for travel insurance, though.
Get a credit card for foreign travel with lower currency exchange rates & lower or no ATM fees...
Taking out an extra credit card and keeping it separate from your other cards
means you won't be stranded if your wallet is stolen.
Some credit cards are better than others for
overseas travel.
You can save money on ATM charges and exchange rates with a
Caxton FX euro currency MasterCard, or indeed the
multi-currency Global Traveller MasterCard,
find out about these cards & sign up here.
See
www.moneysavingexpert.com for advice on the best credit cards to take on your travels overseas (select 'travel').
Martin Lewis's
www.moneysavingexpert.com explains which credit cards
have the lowest commission rates when you buy something in a
foreign currency, and the lowest cash withdrawal fees when
you use an ATM abroad. Martin Lewis's advice
can save you quite a lot!
Get an international SIM card...
Mobile phones can cost a fortune to use abroad, but if you buy a global SIM card for your mobile phone from a company such as www.Go-Sim.com you can slash the cost by up to 85%. It cuts call costs in 175 countries worldwide, and you can receive incoming calls and texts for free in 75 countries. It's pay-as-you-go, so no nasty bills when you get home. It also allows cheap data access for laptops & PDAs. A Go-Sim account and any credit on it doesn't expire if it's not used between trips, unlike some others, so a Go-Sim phone number becomes your 'global phone number' for life.























