See Egypt by train...

Egypt is fabulous, and Cairo one of the most fascinating cities in the world.  There's no need to book a tour, it's easy to travel round Egypt independently.  Egyptian Railways are easily the most comfortable way to travel between Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, Alexandria, Port Said & Suez.  The views from the train can be wonderful, especially along the Nile amongst the fields and palm trees on the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan and Cairo-Alexandria routes.  As so often, the train journeys give you an insight into the country.

Train times & fares for Egypt

  Cairo to Alexandria

  Cairo to Luxor, Isna, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Aswan

  Cairo to Suez

  Cairo to Port Said

  Cairo to El Alamein - Mersa Matruh

  Alexandria/Cairo to El Alamein & Mersa Matruh

  Alexandria to Port Said

  Abu Simbel (bus/ferry service)

  Sharm el Sheikh, Hurghada, Siwa Oasis (by bus)

Other Egyptian travel information

  How to buy tickets

  Train restrictions for tourists & how to get round them

  Cairo Ramses station

  Useful country information - visas, currency, etc

  Hotels & accommodation in Egypt

International travel to/from Egypt

  UK to Egypt without flying

  Cairo-Amman-Damascus-Istanbul by bus & train

  Cairo-Khartoum (Sudan) by train & ferry

  Cairo-Libya-Tunisia-Morocco

Useful country information

How to check train times for Egypt

You can check mainline train times at https://enr.gov.eg

• Train times for key routes are shown below.  Egyptian National Railways now have a website, https://enr.gov.eg, and you can use this to check timetables, although only of the best express trains on main routes, not every slow train.  There is limited train information on the Egyptian national tourist office website www.touregypt.net.  It you're travelling between Cairo, Luxor & Aswan, remember the read the section about tourist train travel restrictions.

	Ticket machines at Cairo Ramses station...

Buying tickets at the station...

• It's fairly easy to buy tickets at the station when you get to Egypt, although as this is Egypt a degree of patience is called for!  Cairo main station has several booking windows, one for each class and group of destinations, so check that you are joining the right queue.  You can pay for train tickets in Egyptian pounds, except for the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan deluxe sleeper which must be paid in foreign currency (US dollars, euros or pounds sterling) at the separate El Watania sleeper office.

• Except during busy periods, it's normally easy to get 1st class tickets on the day of travel or the day before.  The deluxe overnight sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor and Aswan usually has places available if you book a day or two in advance, but at peak tourist times such as Easter it can get fully-booked by tour groups, so pre-booking is recommended.

• Cairo-Luxor-Aswan restrictions... 

  On the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan route, Cairo ticket office will not sell foreigners tickets for the regular daytime trains due to the misguided & easily-circumvented upper Egypt tourist train restrictions. The solution is to either buy a ticket online as shown above or use the self-service machines as below, or if all else fails simply get on the train without a ticket and pay on board, see the section on tourist train travel restrictions which explains all this.  You can also buy tickets at Alexandria, if you happen to be there beforehand, as it's reported Alexandria ticket office will happily sell tickets for Cairo-Luxor-Aswan trains when Cairo ticket office won't.

• Self-service ticket machines...

  These are (or were) the easiest way to buy tickets when you're at the station, quicker and easier than using the staffed ticket counters.  All main stations in Egypt have self-service ticket machines with a touch screen and English language facility.  They can sell train tickets complete with reservation for all main routes & trains and they accept overseas credit cards.  They will happily sell tickets for the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan daytime trains too, even though the staffed counter won't.  In late 2017, reports suggest many machines have fallen into disrepair, or reject overseas cards, but look for one that works, some still do and if so, will accept overseas cards.  If you use these machines, feedback would be appreciated!

	Buy daytime train tickets online at https://enr.gov.eg

Buy tickets online for daytime express trains at https://enr.gov.eg

• You can now book tickets online for the air-conditioned express trains between Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor & Aswan.  Give it a try and see how it goes...

• What tickets can it book?  The system will book 1st & 2nd class seats on the main air-conditioned express trains between Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor & Aswan.  If you want to buy tickets for the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan sleeper trains, see the next section.

• When does booking open?  Booking opens 2 weeks before departure.  If you try to book more than 2 weeks before you want to go, it simply says there's no availability, so just wait until booking opens.

• What won't it book?  It won't book sleeper trains, only daytime express trains.  It won't book 2nd & 3rd class non-air-con tickets for ordinary slow trains, or tickets to other destinations such as Mersa Matruh or Port Said or smaller stations such as Edfu or Kom Ombo.  Or book tickets further ahead than about 2 weeks.  It also seems to book trains from Aswan to Luxor, but not from Luxor to Aswan.

• Can foreign tourists use this system?  Yes.  It allows you to select United Kingdom and other overseas countries from a drop-down list when registering and when booking a ticket.  After selecting United Kingdom it will happily book a daytime seats train from Cairo to Luxor, with no sign of any problem with the tourist restrictions.  Result!  The small print says it only accepts Egyptian credit cards, but I can confirm it accepts my own UK Visa credit card, and it uses the Verified by Visa additional security system.  So give it a go.

• Limitations:  You can only book a maximum of 4 seats at a time on Cairo-Luxor-Aswan trains and 5 seats on Cairo-Alexandria trains.  If you want to buy more tickets than this, you'll have to book via a travel agency or at the station as below or perhaps create two separate accounts using a different name and credit card.  There are a few other limitations, see their terms & conditions.

• How to use it buy tickets online:  Go to https://enr.gov.eg, click English then sign up, a simple process.  Enter your passport number in the National ID box.

• When activated, log in again and click on Make reservation.  Select stations, class, and a date within the next 2 weeks.  It will not book further ahead than this.  You can leave offset and time blank.

• You are sent an email with reservation details with date, time, train number, car & seat number.  You simply print this out and can board the train with just this printout and the credit card used to make the booking, as long as the main named traveller is the owner of the credit card.  If you've used someone else's card, then you'll need a photocopy of the front of the credit card, passport, and reservation details.

• Feedback would be very welcome if you use this system, successfully or unsuccessfully.

• Traveller Ian Green booked tickets from Cairo to Luxor:  "We bought our train tickets online at the Egyptian National Railways website https://enr.gov.eg having followed your link and signed up.  It took 2 or 3 days until I could log in successfully, but I managed to book tickets online from Cairo to Luxor and from Aswan back to Cairo.  We caught train 980 from Cairo to Luxor in first class leaving at 8am (platform 8) with self-print online tickets costing 187.20 Egyptian pounds between us [about £24, just £12 per ticket] and later took train 983 from Aswan to Cairo again in first class, leaving at 7am, costing 226.72 Egyptian pounds between us [about £29 or £14.50 each].  We had no troubles with our print-at-home tickets, as soon as the conductors saw them they spoke in English.  Quite simple really.  We saw a few other non-Egyptians on the trains, all of whom had had to get around the system by getting people to buy tickets for them, or getting split journey tickets, costing around an extra 100 Egyptian Pounds."

	The deluxe sleeper from Cairo to Luxor, arrived at Luxor station on a bright sunny morning... Photo courtesy of Neil Bastock. More sleeper train photos

Buy tickets online for the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan sleeper train at wataniasleepingtrains.com/ticket.

• You can buy tickets online for the overnight deluxe sleeper train between Cairo, Luxor & Aswan at wataniasleepingtrains.com/ticket.  The payment page is https secure.  Feedback would be appreciated.

Or book the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan sleeper train through an agency or call El Watania + 202 374 894 88 or + 202 374 893 88

• If the new online system doesn't work for you for whatever reason, there are two other ways you can pre-book the deluxe sleeper train between Cairo, Luxor & Aswan.

  Option 1 is to contact a travel agency such as www.osoris.com, www.egyptiants.net, www.safariegypt.com, www.paradisetravelegypt.com.  You'll pay a fee for their services, of course. 

  Option 2, which avoids a fee but sometimes takes more persistence, is to book direct with the operator El Watania by phone, fax or email.  Times & fares are shown below or (if it's working!) shown on the Watania sleeper train website, www.wataniasleepingtrains.com.  To book direct with Watania, e-mail your booking request to info@wataniasleepingtrains.com or fax it to + 202 37 489 680 quoting your email address or simply phone their reservation office on + 202 374 893 88 or + 202 374 894 88 (lines open 09:00 to 15:00 Egyptian time, daily except Fridays, English spoken, feedback always appreciated!).  They will email you a booking reference and you can pick up the tickets and pay for them in Egyptian pounds, US Dollars or euros at the Watania reservation office, 48 Giza Street, Orman Building, first floor apartment No.14, at least 24 hours before departure between 09:00 & 15:00 any day except Fridays.  It's in the same block as the Cairo Sheraton Hotel, next to the HSBC Bank.  If you cannot pick up tickets at least 24 hours in advance at these times, then book through a travel agency as recommended above, paying a booking fee.

Buy tickets via an agency: www.osoris.com, www.djedegypt.com, www.safariegypt.com, www.paradisetravelegypt.com.

• If you want to book Egyptian train tickets in advance before you leave home and the Egyptian Railways online booking system doesn't work for you, or you want to book the deluxe sleeper from Cairo to Upper Egypt, you may be able to arrange tickets by e-mail through an Egyptian travel agency.  Again, feedback would be appreciated.

• Reputable agencies include www.osoris.com, www.djedegypt.com, www.egyptiants.net, www.safariegypt.com, www.paradisetravelegypt.com and (in Luxor) www.sunrisetours-eg.com. 

• Osoris has been highly recommended by quite a few seat61 correspondents.  They charge about $10 higher than the normal ticket price, plus a $5 booking fee if you collect the tickets from their office in Cairo, a $25 booking fee if you want them delivered to your hotel, $25 for delivery to the airport to meet your flight, or $20 to meet you with the tickets at Cairo railway station.  They also make a 6% credit card charge, at least on days when they feel like accepting credit cards rather than Western Union transfers!  To buy tickets through them, e-mail them at egypt@osoris.com,  call + 20 2 302 8561 or fax + 20 2 3464146.  Feedback on agencies, good or bad, is always welcome.  Although Osoris has been recommended by several travellers, one traveller has reported poor service. Paradise Travel & SafariEgypt have had no reports as yet.  I have removed Egyptlegend (www.egyptlegend.com/trainreservation.htm) after two bad reports.  Bear in mind that credit cards are not always accepted by small Egyptian travel agencies, a Western Union transfer is often necessary.  On the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan route, these agencies may or may not be prepared to sell you a ticket for the 'restricted' daytime trains, so if they won't, simply forget trying to book, just get on the train without a ticket and pay on board, see the section on tourist train travel restrictions for details.  One report says that www.osoris.com will book seats on the 'restricted' daytime trains from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan.  www.djedegypt.com has been recommended by one correspondent, they charge a $10-$15 fee per ticket.

Learn Arabic numbers...

• A top tip for train travel in Egypt is to learn Arabic numbers.  The indicator boards at main stations often use Arabic numerals to show train numbers, departure times and platform numbers, only main ones show western numbers.  If you know Arabic numbers, you can read these, making it easy to find your train from the departure time, even if you can't read the destination.  Arabic numbers are written left-to-right, exactly like western numbers, even though Arabic words are written right-to-left.  To print these Arabic numbers, right-click the image and click 'print picture'.

Taxis in Cairo & Alexandria...

• Always use a white taxi as these are metered, and are a fairly cheap way to get from anywhere in central Cairo to the station, typically LE10-LE15 (£1-£2 or $2-$3) a trip.  Make sure the meter is switched on.  Black & white taxis do not have meters and you will need to agree a price before you get in, so they usually work out much more expensive.  Alexandria's yellow & black taxis do not have meters, so agree a price before getting in.

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Annoying Cairo - Luxor - Aswan train restrictions for tourists...

• Since the terrorist attacks in Egypt in 2009, the Egyptian government has put restrictions on which trains foreigners can buy tickets for between Cairo and Luxor/Aswan, allegedly so that the government can assure tourists' safety - although I'm tempted to think it's just to make more money from putting visitors on the deluxe sleeper or on planes, as personally I'd feel safer as the sole tourist on a train full of Egyptians than be part of a large herd of foreigners.  Details are difficult to confirm, in fact the UK Egyptian Tourist Office denies any knowledge of any restrictions, but this is definitely the situation in practice:

• What do the restrictions mean? 

  The only trains from Cairo to Luxor or Aswan for which Cairo ticket office will sell tickets to foreigners are the overnight deluxe sleeper trains, in either the sleeping-cars or seats cars.  They won't sell you tickets for the comfortable & inexpensive daytime trains from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan.  There is absolutely no problem riding these trains once you have a ticket or even if you haven't - see option 4 below!  The restriction is purely about being sold a ticket at the ticket office.

• There are no restrictions on other routes...

  ...such as Cairo to Alexandria, Cairo to Suez or Cairo to Port Said, where you can buy tickets for any train you like, it's just the Cairo-Luxor-Aswan route where ticket selling is restricted.  Indeed it seems that the ticket offices at Luxor and Aswan will happily sell you a ticket for trains to Cairo, or between Luxor & Aswan, it's just Cairo ticket office which won't sell tickets to foreigners for the regular daytime trains to Luxor or Aswan.  If you have more information please email me.  Now, there's no need to put up with this.

...and here's how to get round the restrictions:

• Naturally, you may want to get around these silly restrictions and travel on a daytime air-conditioned express along the scenic Nile Valley just for the experience, or use an ordinary train if the deluxe sleepers are fully-booked, as they often are at Easter, for example.  Or simply to save money if you're on a budget.  Or just to strike a blow for freedom and non-discrimination!  And yes, it's as safe or safer than anything else in Egypt.  In practice, all these restrictions really mean is that the ticket offices at Cairo (and possibly Luxor & Aswan) will refuse to sell you a ticket for any train except the deluxe sleepers, so here are the options.  I repeat, there is absolutely no problem riding these trains, the restriction is only about being sold a ticket at the ticket office.

• Option 1, book online!  The Egyptian Railways online booking system will now book daytime express trains and overnight seats trains between Cairo-Luxor and Aswan up to 2 weeks ahead, and happily allows overseas users to buy tickets without any apparent problem, see the online booking section above.  Many western travellers have already reported success with this option.  If you have any problems booking online, try options 2 or 3...

• Option 2, buy tickets in Alexandria.  Two seat61 correspondents have report that the ticket office at Alexandria station happily sold them tickets for daytime Cairo-Luxor/Aswan express trains when Cairo ticket office wouldn't.  So if you happen to be visiting Alex before your journey to upper Egypt, buy tickets in Alexandria!  It also seems that Aswan and Luxor ticket offices are fine, it's Cairo that's the problem.

• Option 3, ask your hotel or an Egyptian travel agency to buy your ticket:  You can try asking your hotel to send someone to buy a ticket for your chosen train for a small fee, then you can board the train.  This may or may not work, these days probably more 'not' but you can ask.  Two reports have said that travel agency www.osoris.com is prepared to book seats for westerners on the 'restricted' daytime trains from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan, if you politely decline the tourist sleeper train and politely insist that you're only interested in the day train, not the sleeper, even if they at first tell you that it's for 'Egyptians only'.

• Option 4, use the self-service ticket machines at stations.  Self-service ticket machines have been installed at all main stations, they have an English language facility and reportedly accept most overseas credit cards.  It's also reported they happily sell tickets for the daytime trains between Cairo, Luxor and Aswan without any problem.  On the other hand, by late 2017 reports suggest many of these machines are out of action, but some do still work and may accept your payment card, see if it works.  If you use the machines, feedback would be appreciated.

• Option 5, simply board without a ticket & buy on the train:  The simplest option of all is just to find and board whatever train you like and buy a ticket from the conductor when he comes along, you'll be charged the normal ticket price plus a small surcharge for buying on board, around LE20 in 2nd class or LE 30 in 1st class, around US$1.75.  There are no barriers to stop you and it saves you the hassle of trying to buy a ticket beforehand.  All reports received from people who have done this say there is absolutely no problem whatsoever.  The one significant downside is that you won't have a reserved seat and they are all-reserved trains, the conductor may point you to some unreserved seats if some are free, but you may not get a seat if the train is crowded (until it stops and people leave the train, at least) so it's better to use one of options 1-3 above if you can.

Travellers' reports...

• Here's a recent report from 2018:  "We bought our tickets online and printed them.  The train was number 980, leaving Cairo at 8am. First class AC1 is comfortable and very good value (£202LE).  Our tickets were checked on board the train and there was no problem, despite the supposed restrictions on this route.  The day before we caught the train, we met a friend who wanted to join us.  She did not have a ticket like us, the self service ticket machines at Ramses station did not work as at the final step she put her credit card in the slot, the machine cancelled the order and went back to the welcome screen - twice!  However, she boarded the train with us anyway and was able to pay on board.  Highly recommended!  Go directly to platform 8, locals are happy to help you find the right train."

• Here's a report from someone who used the Ask your hotel approach:  "I refused to use the sleep train to travel to Luxor, so my hotel sent a man to the station to purchase my ticket for the day train.  The cost of the ticket was 195 Egyptian Pounds, plus $5 USD for the hotel's service.  There were no issues of any kind getting on the train and no questions were asked by the conductor.  For $20 USD, this ten hour ride in a modern and air conditioned coach a deal that can't be beat!"

• Here's a report from someone who successfully booked their Cairo to Luxor daytime tickets online:  "We bought our train tickets online at the Egyptian National Railways website having followed your instructions and signed up.  It took 2 or 3 days until I could log in successfully, but I managed to book tickets online from Cairo to Luxor and from Aswan back to Cairo.  We caught train 980 from Cairo to Luxor in first class leaving at 8am (platform 8) with self-print online tickets costing 187.20 Egyptian pounds between us [about £24, just £12 per ticket] and later took train 983 from Aswan to Cairo again in first class, leaving at 7am, costing 226.72 Egyptian pounds between us [about £29 or £14.50 each].  We had no trouble with our print-at-home tickets on the train, as soon as the conductors saw them they spoke in English.  Quite simple really.  We saw a few other non-Egyptians on the trains, all of whom had had to get around the system by getting people to buy tickets for them, or getting split journey tickets, costing around an extra 100 Egyptian Pounds."

• And here's a report from someone who simply got on the train and paid on board:  "I wanted to use daytime train number 980 leaving Cairo at 08:00 for Luxor [and why not, that's precisely the train I'd want to use!].  I arrived in Cairo on the Sunday and went to the station in the evening to try book my ticket to Luxor for the next day.  I was told that this train was 'for Egyptians only' but was advised to return early on the Monday morning.  I did this, only to be given the same story.  Someone then suggested I board the train and pay on board.  I did this and plonked myself in a first class seat and hoped it was not reserved.  I paid 97 Egyptian pounds (£9 or $16) when asked by the conductor on board and held the seat all the way to Luxor.  When I wanted to return from Luxor back to Cairo I was told the same story, that train number 981 leaving Luxor at 08:30 was not for tourists.  So once again I simply boarded the train and paid on board.  I did get moved from seat to seat this time, but ended up meeting several interesting people.

• More feedback:  "My wife and I were keen to travel from Cairo to Aswan on daytime express train number 980 and attempted to buy tickets at the ticket office.  We were, of course, refused, and pointed towards the overnight train ticket window.  We'd previously used your website when travelling by train through India and, after reading the Egypt section, thought we'd give train 980 a go anyway.  We arrived at Cairo train station at around 7:00am and headed straight for platform 8 (another traveller on your site mentioned this platform for the 980 service); we also confirmed with a few snack-shop owners that this platform was correct. The train pulled up at 7:30am, departed on time at 8:00am, and we bought tickets from a ticket inspector about 30 minutes into our journey with no questions asked.  The rest of the trip went smoothly and we arrived at Aswan on time, at around 9:00pm."

• More feedback:  "You can indeed still buy tickets on board the daytime train from Cairo to Luxor. The ticket inspector was knowing and affable and had no qualms with selling it to me. He even confirmed that I was indeed in first class and charged me just 96LE to Luxor. I'd like to voice my gratitude to others who have left feedback here because I met not one person in Cairo who could confirm the situation, and every Egyptian (including the folks in the hostel) advised me strongly against it, some for their own gains (selling tours etc). However some just didn't know for sure and strangely took the rigid approach. Have confidence!  The trip is scenic and worth it. A day of the interesting countryside of Egypt without the hassle. A winner!

• ...and some more feedback:  "We travelled on the 7am train from Aswan to Luxor 1st class air con.  My girlfriend had tried to get tickets the night before in the somewhat shorter female-only queue, but was told they couldn't sell tickets to tourists and to buy them on the train.  The next day we did as told, waltzed through the security barrier, asked a policeman and he showed us where to get the 1st class train.  There were only about 10 passengers in total in the three 1st class carriages, so no problems at all.  The cost was 47 LE each, and arrived on time.  A good experience, just shame we wasted 20 minutes trying and failing to buy a ticket at the ticket office the previous day!"

• ...and yet more feedback:  One correspondent reports "At both Aswan and Luxor, but not the smaller stations, there was an airport-style security barrier, where they X-ray selected passengers' baggage.  However, there was no ticket check at the barrier.  Everyone including the tourist office, police, and railway staff said we could go on the ordinary [restricted] trains if we paid the small surcharge for buying a ticket on board, the restriction was only on buying the tickets in advance."   Another report (February 2010) confirms that there are no checks or barriers in Cairo main station preventing you accessing the platforms and boarding any train you like and paying on board. 

• and a bit more... There are no barriers, you can just board the train.  I boarded the 08:00 air-con express train from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan (always go for first class!) and simply paid on board.  The same worked on the return journey.  However, as you haven't got a booked seat you may find yourself moved about.  I had no problem keeping my seat down to Aswan on the outward trip.  But the train was very crowded on the return and as we got nearer to Cairo many people were standing including me.  But no one got angry or stressed.  A kind Egyptian bloke then let me perch on his arm rest and shared his sandwich with me.  Great journey -13 hours ! Great country.  Great people."

• and here's some more... "My wife and I took the day train leaving from Cairo and it worked out just as it was detailed on this website and reported by others. If you find it useful, here's another case study for your site.  We arrived at the train station at 07:15.  We heard the train pull into platform 8 around 07:30 and proceeded straight through the security checkpoint. I was a little nervous with the large, blue signs saying "please present your ticket", but no one was checking tickets and we were soon standing on platform 8.  The 1st class cars were closer to us with the 2nd class cars further down the platform. An attendant was standing in the doorway and we enlisted the help of another Egyptian to get us seated on the train and gave him a bit of baksheesh for his efforts. The train departed right on time and around Giza the conductor came through.  We paid him 192 EP for the two of us. We kept our seats the whole way and the train pulled into Luxor at 18:00."

• If you have any more feedback on the 'restrictions' issue, please email me.

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Cairo Ramses railway station...

All mainline trains use Cairo's impressive main station, sometimes called Ramses station, unless shown otherwise in  the timetables below.  See map showing location of Cairo station.  All photos in this section are by courtesy of Zacharias Abubeker.

The main hall...		Ticket office...

Concourse...		Cairo station trainshed, with a 2nd & 3rd class train.

The train service between Alexandria and Cairo is excellent.  There are broadly two sorts of train:   Modern air-conditioned express trains with comfortable 1st & 2nd class seats, not dissimilar to European trains, using either 'Spanish' or 'French' carriages, and ordinary trains with very basic non-air-con 2nd & 3rd class (plus air-con 2nd class on some trains).  A 1st class one-way ticket for an air-conditioned express from Cairo to Alexandria costs about LE 50, less than £6 or $9!

Alexandria ► Cairo  (continued)
Train type:		Special	Ord	Special	Exp	Ord	Special	Special	Ord	Special	Special	Exp	Exp	Ord	Special
Train number:		916	24	918	922	196	88	928	32	926	2000	1912	930	30	934
Alexandria	depart	1400	1430	1500	1530	1545	1645	1800	1820	1900	1930	2000	2000	2125	2200
Cairo	arrive	1630	1840	1730	1830	1855	1925	2030	2150	2130	2210	2225	2300	0020	0030

How much does it cost?	1st class air-con express	2nd class air-con express	2nd class ordinary train *
Cairo - Alexandria (Special express train)	LE 73 (£4 or $4)	LE 47 (£3 or $3)	-
Cairo - Alexandria (Express train)	LE 53 (£3 or $3)	LE 29 (£2 or $2)	-
Cairo - Alexandria (Ordinary train)	-	-	Not known

* not usually offered to foreigners.   LE = Egyptian pounds. 

 If you have an ISIC student card, this used to give you a 33% reduction, although one report says this is no longer the case.

Children aged 0 to 3 travel free, children 4 to 9 travel at half fare, children 10 and over pay full fare.

On board an air-conditioned express from Cairo to Alexandria...

Spanish trains:  At Alexandria Misr station, an air-conditioned Spanish express train has arrived from Cairo. Courtesy Adrian Smith.		1st class on a Cairo-Alexandria Spanish train. Photo courtesy of Adrian Smith.

French trains:   1st class on a 'French' train. Courtesy of Richard Boyd.		Air-conditioned 1st class car of the 'French' type.

Alexandria's historic railway station. Courtesy Zacharias Abubeker		A French train from Cairo, arrived in Alexandria.

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Cairo to Luxor & Aswan

You can travel between Cairo, Luxor and Aswan on 4 different types of train:

 Overnight deluxe sleeper train (1 & 2-bed sleepers & lounge car, shown as sleeper below, see photos below, recommended)

  Daytime air-conditioned express trains (shown as Exp in the timetable below, recommended)

  Overnight air-conditioned express trains (with seats, also shown as Exp in the timetable below, but at night a sleeper is recommended)

 Daytime ordinary slow trains, not air-conditioned, very basic, and not usually taken by tourists (shown as Ord below).

Recommended trains are shown in bold, but see the advice on tourist train restrictions.  Tourists won't be sold tickets for the daytime trains at stations, only for the deluxe sleeper.  So for daytime travel either book online as shown here or simply get on & pay on board.

Cairo ► Luxor ► Aswan
Train type:		Exp**	Exp	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Ord+	Exp	sleeper	Exp	sleeper	sleeper	Exp	Exp**	Exp
Train number:		1902	934	980	80	158	982	160	164	1434	988	84***	88	86	82***	976	996	886
Alexandria	depart	-	2200	-	-	0715	-	-	1140	-	-	-	1645	-	-	-	-	-
Cairo	depart	0005	0100	08:00	0730	1030	12:00	1230	1530	1820	1900	-	2000	19:45	-	2100	2200	2315
Giza	depart	0035	0120	08:20	0750	1050	12:20	1250	1550	1840	1925	20:00	2025	20:15	21:35	2125	2225	2340
Luxor	arr/dep	0940	1055	18:15	1920	2105	22:25	2325	0150	0350	0435	05:20	0620	05:45	07:10	0705	0750	0900
Isna *	arrive	1040	-	19:00	2010	-	23:30	-	0240	|	0515	|	0717	??:??	08:00	-	0820	0950
Edfu *	arrive	1120	-	19:45	2105	-	00:05	-	0330	0520	0600	07:00	0755	??:??	08:45	-	0900	1035
Kom Ombo *	arrive	1230	-	20:45	2210	-	00:55	-	0425	0610	0655	|	0850	??:??	09:45	-	1000	1130
Aswan	arrive	1305	-	22:00	2305	-	02:05	-	0525	0655	0800	08:35	1005	08:50	10:30	-	1120	1220

* = Guesstimated time, please check exact time locally.

** = also has Nefertiti class with 6-seat compartments.

*** = sleeper train 82/83 only runs when needed. Train 84/85 may also only run when needed.  Use 86/87 as default option.

Exp = Express train with air-con 1st & 2nd class seats & refreshments. 

Ord = Ordinary train, not normally used by tourists, basic 2nd & 3rd class seats. 

Ord+ = also has air-con 2nd class.

Sleeper = Deluxe sleeper train run by Watania (previously Abela Egypt), sleeping-cars & lounge car.  Trains 84, 85, 86, 87 run daily & also have 1st class seats.  Trains 82 & 83 only run at peak times.

Cairo to Luxor is 671km (419 miles).  Cairo to Aswan is 879 km (549 miles).   Fares shown below.   How to buy tickets.

Giza station is a fair way from the Pyramids, but if you're staying out that way it can be better than going into Cairo city centre.  You can travel between Cairo & Giza on the Cairo Metro, www.cairometro.gov.eg.

You can check these times & fares at https://enr.gov.eg.

See the section about government tourist restrictions

Aswan ► Luxor ► Cairo
Train type:		Exp	Ord+	Exp	Exp	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Ord+	Exp	Exp	Exp	sleeper	sleeper	sleeper	Exp	Exp**	Exp
Train number:		2003	157	981	983	935	81	993	163	887	977	1903	83***	87	85***	997	89	989
Aswan	depart	01:00	-	05:30	07:00	-	0930	-	1300	1500	-	1615	16:00	17:00	20:00	1945	2000	2200
Kom Ombo*	depart	01:43	-	??:??	??:??	-	1025	-	1355	1542	-	1648	??:??	??:??	|	2043	2101	2220
Edfu*	depart	02:35	-	??:??	??:??	-	1123	-	1450	1630	-	1740	??:??	??:??	??:??	2137	2158	2315
Isna*	depart	|	-	??:??	??:??	-	1210	-	1540	1715	-	1825	??:??	??:??	|	2222	2246	0002
Luxor	arr/dep	04:15	0730	09:15	10:35	12:00	1315	1430	1645	1820	1900	1945	19:40	20:20	22:30	2315	2345	0100
Giza	arrive	13:20	1755	18:45	21:05	21:40	0045	0155	0245	0345	0425	0510	|	05:30	|	0845	1005	1020
Cairo	arrive	13:35	1810	19:50	21:30	22:05	0100	0210	0300	0415	0455	0545	05:25	05:50	08:20	0920	1025	1120
Alexandria	arrive	-	2230	-	-	01:00	-	-	0645	-	-	-	-	-	-	-	1340	-

Fares	Deluxe sleeper  sharing 2-berth	Deluxe sleeper sole occupancy	1st class air-con express	2nd class air-con express	2nd class non-AC ordinary train
Cairo to Luxor	$ 80 **	$ 110 **	LE 203 (£10 / $17) *	LE 120 (£5 / $8) *	Not known *
Cairo to Aswan	$ 80 **	$ 110 **	LE 244 (£11 / $21) *	LE 140 (£6 / $9) *	Not known *
Luxor to Aswan	-	-	LE 94 (£5 / $8)	LE 63 (£3 / $5)	Not known

Fares are one-way fares, the price is the same in either direction.

* not sold to tourists at the ticket office, but see the section about tourist travel restrictions and how to get around them.

** fare may be paid in US$, euros, sterling or Egyptian pounds, includes evening meal & breakfast.   

LE = Egyptian pounds.  If you have an ISIC student card this used to give a 33% reduction, it may or may not still do.   How to buy tickets

Children aged 0 to 3 travel free, children 4 to 9 travel at two-thirds fare, children 10 and over pay full fare.  

On the deluxe sleeper train, children aged 4 to 9 pay $70 one-way, children under 4 go free but without a berth - you pay child rate if you want them to have a bed.

The deluxe sleeper trains from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan:  www.wataniasleepingtrains.com.  

Sleeper trains 82 & 84 (when they're running) leave from Giza station, not Cairo.  You can travel between Cairo & Giza by taxi or on the Cairo Metro, www.cairometro.gov.eg.  The daily all-year-round sleeper train 86 leaves from Cairo's main Ramses station, which is obviously far more convenient for central Cairo.  Northbound, all trains run to Cairo, not Giza.

The deluxe sleeper train is the best way to travel between Cairo and Luxor or Aswan, saving time and travelling in relative comfort, and it's also an Egyptian experience in its own right.  These trains are run by a private company called El Watania who took over from previous operator Abela Egypt in January 2010.  They have air-conditioned sleeping-cars with secure & lockable 1 & 2-berth rooms and a bar-lounge car, see the photos below.  The fare includes a basic airline-style tray-meal in the evening and simple breakfast (although tea & coffee are charged for), see the photos below.  Room service can serve drinks in your compartment at extra cost.  The compartments have a standard 2-pin shaver socket which can be used to recharge cameras and mobile phones with any suitable 2-pin adaptor.  Sleepers are non-smoking, but you can smoke if you need to in the vestibules at each end of the carriage.  Luggage goes in your compartment with you, there's a recess over the door for large bags so they don't have to go on the floor.  The fare is now US$100 per person one-way sharing a 2-berth compartment or US$120 in a single-berth compartment from Cairo to either Luxor or Aswan, payable in Egyptian pounds, US dollars, euros or pounds sterling (dollars or euros preferred, credit cards not accepted).  Children aged 0-3 travel free, children 4-9 $85.  Passengers travelling alone who don't want to pay the single-berth fare can book a berth in a 2-berth compartment and share with another passenger of the same sex.  For more information, see www.wataniasleepingtrains.com.

How to book the deluxe sleeper:  Buy tickets as explained here.  If you book in person at the station a day or two before departure, you may well find places available - and you will need to pay in US$, euros or £) not Egyptian pounds.  But at peak tourist times such as Christmas or Easter it can get fully-booked by tour groups, so if a specific date is important to you, I'd recommend pre-booking.

On board the sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor & Aswan...

The sleeper to Luxor & Aswan about to leave Cairo...  Courtesy of Richard Boyd.

Boarding the sleeper... Photos in this section courtesy of Ross Thomas		Sleeper in day mode with beds folded away...		...and in night mode with beds made up.

Sleeper train corridor...		Washbasin...		Canine security in evidence...  Photo courtesy of Steve Hounslow

Lounge-bar car...  A modern air-conditioned car, refurbished with old-world decor.  Photos courtesy of Neil Bastock

Dinner & breakfast are included in the fare...  Some people find the food OK, others find it disappointing, but these photos show you what to expect.  Tea & coffee are not included, but drinks don;t cost much.  Feel free to bring your own supplies for a picnic on the train!  Photos courtesy of Neil Bastock.
Watch the sleeper video    Bar car video Short account of an Aswan to Cairo deluxe sleeper train journey. The compartments are shown in evening mode with the beds still folded away...

Travellers' reports:  A journey on the Upper Nile sleeper...

Traveller Sean Sickinger reports:  "On the ticket you're advised to be on the platform at least 30 minutes before departure, although this doesn't mean the train will be on time! On my trip, the train was 30 minutes late leaving and nearly 2 hours late into Luxor, so factor a possible delay into your plans.  Giza mainline station is right next to Giza metro station and there are a few small shops selling snacks or water, plus a small restaurant.  At the station there are small numbers hanging from the platform canopy, these indicate the approximate location of the carriages so if you're booked in car 6, stand next to sign number 6. Don't expect to find any Watania staff on the platform, just wait for the sleeper train on the main platform with everyone else.  You may be approached by people with official looking notebooks offering to help you who ask you for your ticket, but don't show it to them - they write down your name and destination as if they were verifying your ticket, then call their buddies in Luxor who will approach using your name and claiming they are there to pick you up, a basic taxi and hotel scam.  Once the train arrives at the platform, Watania staff will step out in front of each carriage to check your ticket and make sure you get into the right car & compartment. The onboard staff are generally very friendly and helpful.  Car numbers are posted just inside each entrance door, but not outside the train. After the train leaves and people have settled into their compartments, the staff bring you your dinner, as selected when you book your ticket.  The meals are similar to what you would get on an airline, although fairly heavy on breads & starches!  Breakfast is served about one hour prior to arrival at your destination, again, heavy on the bread.  Don't expect the same level of smoothness as a European overnight train, as there's a certain amount of jostling and vibration from the tracks, but overall this is not a bad option to get from Cairo to Luxor or Aswan."

Traveller Jess Painter took the sleeper from Cairo to Luxor and back (2013):  "When boarding from Cairo to Luxor, no-one asked for a marriage certificate, although they checked our tickets as we boarded - onto the wrong carriage, telling us it was the right one, of course!  They serve dinner within an hour which was a piece of breaded chicken, rice, vegetables, potato wedges and some sort of cake.  I preferred to eat my tuna sandwiches but my friend ate the train food happily enough.  An hour later, just after 10pm, they come around to turn the seats into beds.  Next time I'll ask for this to be done straight away as the beds are much more comfortable than the seats, two people can sit on the bottom bunk playing cards very comfortably.  The rooms have a sink so you can brush your teeth, with bottled water if you have some, and there's a power socket so you can keep everything charged in the case of a delay.  There is a lounge car on the train but it didn't appear to be open, no drinks were available so people must take their own, alcohol included if you want to sleep better!  Breakfast was very basic, something claiming to be a croissant, a bread roll and a selection of jam, butter and cheese spread.  They also serve tea and coffee, which I don't drink but my friend said they were disgusting!  The toilets are cleaned at regular intervals but you have to time it right. There are two toilets per carriage. You might go in one time and have a horrendous greeting and decide to wait you might go in another time and feel comfortable enough to use the facilities! They permit smoking on the trains but not in the cabins, only at either end of the carriage. So it's best to leave your door shut so the wafting smoke doesn't enter your cabin, even though this can feel a little claustrophobic at times!  Very easy to pick up a taxi from outside the station once in Luxor, it's LE20 (£2) to any hotel (don't pay any extra), but if you can use some broken Arabic you will get them down to LE10, begrudgingly.  The return journey was much the same except that tickets weren't checked on the platform, again no marriage certificate check.  Tickets were not even checked on board.  We asked for our beds to be made up immediately, passed on dinner as it was already 10.30pm when we boarded, and we slept right through until 8am.  I had slept badly on the outward trip, thinking that the bunk bed was going to fall due to the rockiness of the train, but knowing what to expect made the return journey easier and we were so sleepy after a 5am hot air balloon ride that it was a very comfortable ride.  We were then delayed three hours and the 'carriage host' couldn't say where we were, how far we were from Cairo or anything so we had GPS out on the iPhone trying to locate ourselves.  It was a very successful journey and one I would recommend to anyone and definitely do again!"

Daytime air-conditioned express trains...

They're not as time-effective as the overnight sleeper of course, but the daytime air-conditioned express trains are safe, comfortable and incredibly cheap - and best of all, the journey is an insight into Egyptian life.  It's a pleasant ride along the Nile Valley, past palm trees, feluccas, camels and fellahin working in the fields.  You will see how the Nile makes a small strip of land green either side of the river before the desert resumes.  The day trains have air-conditioned 1st & 2nd class seats, see the photos below.  You won't be sold a ticket at the ticket office for these trains, see the section about government tourist restrictions to understand why, but you can easily book tickets online in advance as shown here (recommended), or simply board any train without a ticket and pay the conductor, although you'll then need to find a spare seat.  See the traveller's report below about a journey on these daytime Nile Valley trains.

Luxor to Cairo by daytime train...  This is a morning 'Spanish' train to Cairo, boarding at Luxor station. Courtesy of Neil Bastock.		Air-conditioned 1st class of the 'Spanish' type used on some daytime Cairo to Luxor trains. Photo courtesy of Adrian Smith.

This is 1st class on a 'French' train used on some departures. Courtesy of Richard Boyd.		Air-conditioned 1st class car of the 'French' type used on some departures.

Travelling overnight in air-con seats...

The night trains also have 1st & 2nd class seats (see the photos above) and one coach with Nefertiti class seats.  If you don't mind sleeping in a seat, which not a very nice or comfortable experience, these overnight trains save time compared with daytime trains but cost much less than the deluxe sleeper.  Cairo to Aswan costs LE 170 (£21 or $30) 1st class one-way.  Take a fleece or jumper as the air-con can be quite powerful.  The photos below show a Nefertiti class air-con 6-seat compartment on the overnight Cairo-Luxor-Aswan train. They are converted from a sleeping-car with the berths removed and two compartments knocked into one.  See the section about government tourist restrictions. 

Ordinary slow trains...

The 2nd & 3rd class non-air-con slow trains are fairly basic and only recommended for the more adventurous visitors, see the 'ordinary trains' pictures further up this page.  Government restrictions prevent tourists from being sold a ticket for these trains, although you could get on without a ticket and pay the conductor on board.

Traveller's reports...

Traveller Jerome Wise reports: "We took the daytime air-conditioned express train from Cairo to Luxor, which took 10 hours or so.  It was great fun, a bit of an adventure and a great way to see the real Egypt.  The children (8 and 6) even enjoyed it.  The great thing about the first class seats is that, whilst they are in an airline configuration, you can swivel them so you have facing and back - great for four people travelling together."

Traveller Ian Green took a Cairo to Luxor then Aswan to Cairo daytime trains in 2011:  "We bought our train tickets online at the Egyptian National Railways website having followed your instructions and signed up.  We caught train 980 from Cairo to Luxor in first class leaving at 8am (platform 8) on 30.09.11 costing 187.20 Egyptian pounds between us and the 983 train from Aswan to Cairo on the 07.10.11 first class, leaving at 7am, costing 226.72 Egyptian pounds between us.  The tea was lovely, service pretty good, seats comfy. Toilets passable. Both trains left on time, both were in the station half hour early, but both were about 3 hours delayed getting to the final stop. Take supplies!"

Luxor railway station.  Photos courtesy of Neil Bastock

Visiting the temples at Abydos & Dendera...

Traveller Krys Garnett reports:  "Visiting the temples of Abydos and Dendera from Luxor is easy by train, and much more convenient than the convoy or bus. For Abydos take any train headed to Cairo and get off at Qena, where the station master will arrange a taxi and inform the tourist police.  A policeman will accompany you in the taxi, but you won't get a convoy.  All trains except the Abela sleepers stop at Qena.  Visiting Abydos, take the train to El Balyana. Again, all trains except sleepers stop here, but it's a smaller, older station.  El Balyana is around 3 hours from Luxor, Qena between 1½ & 2 hours."

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Cairo to Port Said

Ord+ = Ordinary train, with 2nd class air-conditioned and 3rd class non-A/C.

Exp = Express train with air-conditioned 1st & 2nd class.

Fare:  LE 20 one-way 2nd class (£2 or $4).  Actual fare will have risen with 2016 revaluing of Egyptian pound, but will be similar in real terms

Cairo ► Port Said
		Ord+	Exp	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Ord+
Cairo	depart	06:15	-	13:45	14:40	-	19:45
Alexandria	depart	|	04:30	|	|	15:30	|
Port Said	arrive	10:15	11:10	18:00	19:05	22:10	23:50

Port Said ► Cairo
		Ord+	Ord+	Exp	Ord+	Ord+	Exp	Ord+
Port Said	depart	05:30	07:25	09:30	13:00	17:30	18:25	18:15
Alexandria	arrive	|	13:30	|	|	|	00:35	|
Cairo	arrive	09:45	-	13:35	17:10	21:35	-	00:50

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Cairo to Suez

Fare:  One-way 2nd class:  about LE 7, or less than UK £1.  Actual fare will have risen with 2016 revaluing of Egyptian pound, but will be similar in real terms

Ord = Ordinary train, with non-air-con 2nd & 3rd class.

Ord+ = Ordinary train, with air-con 2nd class & non-air-con 3rd class.

Cairo ► Suez
		Ord	Ord+	Ord	Ord	Ord	Ord	Ord
Cairo (main station)	depart	-	05:10	-	-	-	-	-
Cairo (Ain Shams station)	depart	06:30	|	09:20	13:10	16:15	18:45	21:45
Suez	arrive	08:40	09:50	11:35	15:20	18:30	21:00	00:00
Suez ► Cairo

		Ord	Ord	Ord	Ord+	Ord	Ord	Ord
Suez	depart	06:00	10:10	13:10	15:25	15:50	19:00	21:25
Cairo (Ain Shams station)	arrive	08:15	12:15	15:25	|	18:05	21:10	23:35
Cairo (main station)	arrive	-	-	-	20:05	-	-	-

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Trains to Alamein & Mersa Matruh

Ord = Ordinary train, with 2nd & 3rd class seats, basic seating, not air-conditioned.

Note A = Express train with air-conditioned 1st & 2nd class seats, runs June-September only.  At other periods, travel via Alexandria.

Note B = Sleeper, www.sleepingtrains.com.  Runs mid-June-mid-Sept on Monday, Wednesday, Saturday.

Note C = Sleeper, www.sleepingtrains.com.  Runs mid-June-mid-Sept on Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday.

Cairo / Alex ► Mersa Matruh

Mersa Matruh ► Alex / Cairo

Ord

Note A

Ord

Note B

Ord

Note A

Ord

Note C

Cairo

depart

-

06:40

-

23:00

Mersa Matruh

depart

07:05

13:35

15:45

23:00

Alexandria

depart

06:40

|

13:30

|

El Alamein

depart

10:24

16:20

18:30

|

El Alamein

arrive

09:24

11:45

17:17

|

Alexandria

arrive

13:30

|

21:15

|

Mersa Matruh

arrive

12:05

14:15

20:20

06:00

Cairo

arrive

-

21:35

-

06:00

Fares: In the sleeper, Cairo to Mersa Matruh costs $43 per person sharing a 2-berth sleeper, $60 in a single-berth sleeper.  Day train fares not known.

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Abu Simbel

There are no trains to Abu Simbel, but a bus service operates from Aswan (275 km).  It departs Aswan at 07:00, arriving Abu Simbel at 10:00.  It leaves Abu Simbel at 13:00 arriving back in Aswan at 16:00.  There are also many tourist day tours, most leaving Aswan very early - for example, 04:00 - for about LE55 (£5 or $9).

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Sharm el Sheik, Hurghada, Siwa

Sharm el Sheik (Sinai) - Cairo

There are no trains to Sharm el Sheik, but there are buses to and from Cairo.  The 485 km journey takes about 7 hours by bus.

Go Bus Egypt run a dozen or more buses a day between Sharm el Sheik and Cairo, see https://go-bus.com.  The cost ranges from LE 150 to LE 350 depending on the class of bus.  If you use this route, feedback & any photos would be appreciated.

There are also buses run by the East Delta Bus Co and the Super Jet Bus Co. although currently neither company has a website, but try www.ask-aladdin.com for bus times.

Sharm el Sheik - Luxor

Sharm El Sheik is the far side of the Gulf of Suez from the Nile Valley, so for Luxor you either need to return to Cairo by bus, then travel by train from Cairo to Luxor, or you can cross by ferry (3 ferries per week) from Sharm el Sheik to Hurghada, spend the night there then continue to Luxor by bus.  There is a three-times-weekly fast ferry from Sharm el Sheik to Hurghada, plus a three-times-weekly slow ferry, further details not known.  It's reported that in 2015, these ferries may no longer be operating, please check locally.

Hurghada - Cairo

There are no trains to Hurghada, but there are buses to and from Cairo.  The 500 km journey takes about 7 hours by bus.

Go Bus Egypt run a dozen or more buses a day between Hurghada and Cairo, see https://go-bus.com.  The cost ranges from LE 190 to LE 340 depending on the class of bus.  If you use this route, feedback & any photos would be appreciated.

Buses are also run by Super Jet or El Gouna bus companies (no website, but try www.ask-aladdin.com for bus times). 

Hurghada - Luxor

Luxor to Hurghada (255 km) takes 4 hours by bus, with 2 or 3 departures daily, around LE 110 see https://go-bus.com.  There is a three-times-weekly fast ferry from Hurghada to Sharm el Sheik, plus a three-times-weekly slow ferry.

Siwa Oasis

There are no trains to Siwa.  A daily bus links Siwa with Alexandria (590 km), departing Alex at 08:30, returning from Siwa at 08:00.  It's reported that there's now a daily overnight bus from the Turgoman garage in Cairo at 18:45 to Siwa, arriving around 05:45 next morning.  The fare is around LE 60.  It's run by the West Delta Bus co.

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International buses & ferries

There are no international trains from Egypt, but buses will get you to Libya, there's a ferry to Jordan and a Nile steamer from Aswan to Sudan.  There are now NO Mediterranean ferries to Egypt, from anywhere in Europe, at all.

Cairo - Amman (Jordan) - Damascus (Syria) - Istanbul (Turkey)...

There is a direct bus from Cairo to Amman four times a week, fare around £70 or $100, run by JETT of Jordan (www.jett.com.jo) and taking 20 hours, exact times & days of running northbound not known - note that this crosses Israel, and you may be refused entry to Syria later on if you have any sign of a visit to Israel in your passport.  To buy northbound tickets or ask about the schedule northbound, email their Egyptian agents, superjet@post.com tel. 00 202 2290 9013.

Alternatively, if you want to avoid Israel, use a bus & ferry route:

• Take a bus from Cairo to Nuweiba on the Red Sea.  A bus leaves Cairo main bus station at around 08:00, taking about 6 hours to reach Nuweiba.  It's run by the Shark el Delta Bus Co.

• Take the daily fast catamaran (departing 17:00, crossing 1 hour) or the daily conventional ferry (departing 17:00 and/or 22:00, crossing 3-4 hours) from Nuweiba to Aqaba in southern Jordan, see www.abmaritime.com.jo.  The fare by regular ferry is US$65 economy class, $70 first class.  By fast ferry it's $75 economy class, $95 1st class.  .  You must check in at least 2 hours before departure, and pay your fare in US$ cash.  There may also be an Egyptian exit tax to pay, about $10.

• You will probably need to spend the night in Aqaba.  There are regular buses and service taxis from Aqaba to Petra and Amman, costing around 3 or 4 JD, see the Jordan page. 

• For buses from Amman to Damascus in Syria, see the Jordan page. 

• For trains from Damascus to Aleppo & from Aleppo to Istanbul, see the Syria page.  Check current travel advice for Syria - you may be advised against all travel to or through Syria at the moment.

• Details of the southbound journey from Amman to Cairo are shown on the Jordan page.

The fast ferry from Nuweiba in Egypt to Aqaba in Jordan. Photo courtesy of Elliot Bannister

Cairo - Tripoli (Libya) - Tunis (Tunisia) - Morocco...

IF you have a Libyan visa, there are buses from Egypt into Libya.  However, at present the Libyan government will not grant visas for independent travel to Libya, only for people on tours organised by a recognised Libyan travel agency.  There are buses from Libya into Tunisia, but it's not possible to travel on to Morocco overland, as the Algerian/Moroccan border is closed and Algeria has security problems which make it a no-go zone for westerners.

Cairo - Aswan - Wadi Halfa - Khartoum (Sudan):  See the Sudan page...

A weekly Nile steamer links Aswan with Wadi Halfa in the Sudan, from where a twice-monthly train runs (or at least, used to run,) to Khartoum, see the Sudan page for details.

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UK to Egypt without flying

In 2015, it's not easy to get to Egypt without flying...

Option 1:  London to Egypt by train & ferry.

This used to be easy, but is currently tricky.  The Med is now full of cruise liners going round in circles, but remarkably short on actual ferries doing anything useful.  Until 1995, Adriatica Line's Espresso Egitto used to sail weekly from Venice and Piraeus to Alexandria.  Michael Palin used it in 1989 and I used it in 1990 to travel from London to Cairo and back without flying - Michael gets everywhere a year or two before I do, and he doesn't have to pay for his own ticket.  Sadly, the terrorist problems in Egypt ended this service.  Until 2001, Salamis Lines sailed weekly from Greece to Egypt via Cyprus, but their services were suspended because of the problems in Israel, the ship's ultimate destination.  Then a new weekly ferry service started in May 2010 linking Venice in Italy with Alexandria in Egypt, www.visemarline.com.  However, sorry as I am to be proved right, this service didn't last more than a year - it ran in a circle via Syria, and fell victim both to the problems in Egypt reducing tourist numbers and the current strife in Syria.  It was cancelled in May 2011.  But yet another ferry then started up, the only ferry across the Med to Egypt, running twice a week from Iskenderun in southern Turkey to Port Said in Egypt, www.sisashipping.com.  But this ended in 2013.  There are currently no passenger ferries to Egypt, your only hope is a cruise liner or freighter.

Grimaldi Lines run weekly or so freighters to Alexandria from various European ports including Southampton, Salerno (Italy) and Piraeus (Greece), www.grimaldi-freightercruises.com.  However, it's reported that they don't allow embarkation or disembarkation at Alexandria.  Feedback would be appreciated!

One option that should still work, albeit not quick or cheap, is this:  www.cruisepeople.co.uk/cma.htm offer voyages with French freighter line CMA-CGM from Le Havre and Fos sur Mer (west of Marseille) to Suez/Damietta in Egypt, Le Havre to Egypt taking 10 days at around €110-€150 per day including food and cabin accommodation.

Option 2:  London to Egypt overland via Paris, Vienna, Istanbul, Syria & Jordan...

Obviously, the situation in Syria has now scotched this route too, as all travel to or through Syria is currently inadvisable. 

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Guidebooks

Paying for a guidebook may seem an unnecessary expense, but it's a tiny fraction of what you're spending on your whole trip.  You will see so much more, and know so much more about what you're looking at, if you have a decent guidebook.  For independent travel, easily the best guidebook is either the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide.  Both books provide an excellent level of practical information and historical and cultural background.  You won't regret buying either of them..!

Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk

Alternatively, you can download just the chapters or areas you need in .PDF format from the Lonely Planet Website, from around £2.99 or US$4.95 a chapter.

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Hotels in Cairo, Luxor & Egypt

		◄ Favourite hotel search & price comparison: hotelscombined.com
		www.hotelscombined.com checks all the main hotel booking sites at once to find the widest choice of hotels & the cheapest seller.  It's been named as the World's Leading Hotel Comparison Site in the World Travel Awards and I recommend it to find hotels in even the smallest places and to check that another retailer isn't selling the same hotel for less. ► Favourite hotel booking site: www.booking.com www.booking.com is my favourite hotel booking site, and unless HotelsCombined throws up major price differences I prefer doing my bookings in one place here.  You can usually book with free cancellation - this allows you to confirm your accommodation at no risk before train booking opens.  It also means you can hold accommodation while you finalise your itinerary, and alter your plans as they evolve - a feature I use all the time when putting a trip together.

Hotel suggestions...

• In Cairo, try the Windsor Hotel for old-world charm and character.  I have yet to stay there myself, but it's been recommended to me, so take a look.

• In Luxor, easily the most classic place to stay if your budget will stretch is the famous and fabulous Old Winter Palace Hotel, from $109 or £55 a night.  At least have a drink in the bar!

• In Alexandria, the most famous & historic hotel is the Cecil Hotel (from about $153 or £100 a room), now part of the Sofitel chain, though the Metropole Hotel across the square is a cheaper but still a classic choice for faded grandeur, from $80 or £55 a night.  Both are in a great location.

Backpacker hostels...

• www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & health card...

Take out decent travel insurance, it's essential...

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy myself.  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

In the UK, try Columbus Direct or use Confused.com to compare prices & policies from many different insurers.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65, see www.JustTravelCover.com - 10% discount with code seat61.

        If you live in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct's other websites.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get a spare credit card, designed for travel with no currency exchange loading & low or no ATM fees...

It costs nothing to take out an extra credit card.  If you keep it in a different part of your luggage so you're not left stranded if your wallet gets stolen, this is a form of extra travel insurance in itself.  In addition, some credit cards are significantly better for overseas travel than others.  Martin Lewis's www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-travel-money explains which UK credit cards have the lowest currency exchange commission loadings when you buy something overseas, and the lowest cash withdrawal fees when you use an ATM abroad.  Taking this advice can save you quite a lot on each trip compared to using your normal high-street bank credit card!

Get a VPN for safe browsing when you travel.  VPNs & why you need one explained...

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN means your connection to the internet is encrypted & always secure, even using unsecured WiFi.  In countries such as China where access to Twitter & Facebook is restricted, a VPN gets around these restrictions.  And lastly, you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geographic restrictions which some websites apply - for example one booking site charges a booking fee to non-European visitors but none to European visitors, so if you're not located in Europe you can avoid this fee by browsing with a UK IP address using a VPN.  VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy and I use them myself.

 

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