Two sleeps to Tangier...

This page explains how to travel from London to Tangier, Marrakech, Fez, Rabat or Casablanca without flying, in comfort & safety on regular scheduled trains & ferry.  What a journey!  Take Eurostar to Paris, have lunch at the fabulous Train Bleu restaurant, then speed south to Barcelona at up to 320 km/h (199 mph) by double-deck TGV Duplex.  Stay overnight, then ride superb Spanish high-speed trains through wonderful Spanish scenery into Andalusia, before sailing across the Straits of Gibraltar from Europe to Africa.  Once in Morocco, the real Marrakech Express will speed you south towards the Atlas mountains.  No flights, no airports, no stress.

UK to Morocco by train

  London to Morocco train times, southbound

  Morocco to London train times, northbound

  What's the journey like?

  How much does it cost?

  How to buy tickets

  Video guide: Tangier to Madrid by ferry & train

  Alternative routes & options

Other useful information

  Useful country information: currency, dial code...

  Places to stay & things to see in Tangier

  Car hire in Morocco - ideal for south of Marrakech

  Recommended hotels in Algeciras & Morocco

  Insurance, mobile data, VPN & other tips

Train travel in Morocco

  Train travel in Morocco:  Tangier to Fes, Rabat, Casablanca & Marrakech

Useful country information

London to Tangier & Marrakech

	The mud-built town at Aït ben Haddou, south of Marrakech.  Many movie scenes were filmed here, including the North African scenes in Gladiator.  It's well worth hiring a car for a few days and exploring...

London ► Morocco

• Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar...

  Leave London St Pancras at 09:24, arriving Paris Gare du Nord 12:57.

  Tip:  Book an earlier Eurostar and have lunch at the famous Train Bleu Restaurant at the Gare de Lyon.

  Cross Paris by metro or taxi from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon, just 2 stops on RER line D.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Barcelona by TGV Duplex...

  Leave Paris Gare de Lyon at 14:56 every day, arriving Barcelona Sants at 21:25.

  This 320 km/h (199 mph) double-deck high-speed train has a café-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Book an upper deck seat for the best views as the train speeds along the scenic Rhône valley past pretty French villages & picturesque churches, then look out for colonies of flamingos on the étangs in southern France.  Map of Barcelona showing station.

• Stay overnight in Barcelona...

  Hotels close to Barcelona Sants station with good or great reviews include the Hotel Barcelo Sants (4-star, great reviews, directly above Barcelona Sants station itself, the recommended choice), AC Hotel Sants by Marriott (4-star, just 50m from the station), Hotel Catalonia Roma (3-star), Hostal Baler (2-star), Hotel Transit (1-star), Meeting Point Hostel (inexpensive private rooms & dorm beds).

• Day 2, travel from Barcelona to Madrid by high-speed AVE train...

  Leave Barcelona Sants at 11:00 and arrive Madrid Atocha at 13:45.

  Tip:  If you have a Premium Comfort class ticket you can use the Sala Club at Barcelona Sants.

• Day 2, travel from Madrid to Algeciras by intercity train...

  Leave Madrid Atocha at 15:05 and arrive Algeciras at 20:32.

  The Intercity train is an articulated air-conditioned Talgo train with cafe-bar.  This is a lovely scenic ride - the train dashes along the high-speed line through the mountains to Cordoba, then it slows right down onto the scenic single-track to Algeciras on the Straits of Gibraltar.  You'll see the scenery in this video guide.  At Antequera-Santa Ana the train is propelled through a gauge-changing shed and its axles adjust from standard gauge (4'8½, used for Spanish high-speed lines) to Iberian gauge, 5'6".

• Stay overnight in Algeciras.   I recommend the Hotel Reina Cristina, which is easily the best hotel in Algeciras as well as the most historic, set in its own grounds just 10 minutes walk from the station and 10 minutes walk from the ferry passenger terminal.  For such a grande dame of a hotel, it's remarkably inexpensive.

• Day 3, take the FRS transfer bus to Tarifa & FRS fast ferry to Tangier town...

  Algeciras' modern ferry passenger terminal (Estación Maritima) is a 10-minute (800m) walk from the station, and from the Hotel Reina Cristina.

  Fast ferry company FRS (www.frs.es) operates a free transfer bus from Algeciras ferry passenger terminal to their ferry terminal in the nearby town of Tarifa to connect with their modern SeaCat fast ferries from Tarifa to Tangier.  Unlike the other ferry companies, their SeaCats arrive at Tangier's original ferry terminal, conveniently located in the heart of Tangier old town just 5 minutes walk from the wonderful Continental Hotel.  Sailing times vary by season so check times for your date at www.frs.es.

  Exchange your ferry ticket for a boarding pass at the FRS office at Algeciras passenger ferry terminal.  FRS's distinctive red bus then leaves from a bus parking space outside the passenger terminal one hour before each ferry departure from Tarifa.  The 22 km (14 mile) drive to the pretty town of Tarifa takes 30 minutes, through hills and past numerous wind turbines.

  The FRS ferry may involve an Algeciras-Tarifa bus, but it avoids the 52 km transfer from Tanger Med Port to Tangier town that the other ferry companies impose on their passengers.  Arriving directly at Tangier's old town by ferry is certainly more romantic than arriving at the concrete-and-oil-tanks Tangier Med Port 50 km away.  The FRS SeaCats have comfortable lounge seating and a refreshment counter.

  ...Or sail from Algeciras to Tangier Med Port & take a bus or taxi to Tangier town.

  FRS are the only ferry company still sailing to Tangier's original ferry terminal in Tangier Town itself.  All the other ferry companies now sail from Algeciras ferry terminal to Tangier Med Port, some 52 km outside Tangier.  The one advantage of using a conventional ship to Tangier Med Port is that there is lots of outside deck from which to appreciate this classic crossing of the Straits of Gibraltar.

  There's no need to book in advance for any of these ferries, just turn up and buy your ticket from one of the many ferry company ticket offices at the entrance to the passenger terminal.  Then go inside the terminal and upstairs to the check-in windows.  There are a range of departures throughout the day, operated by a variety of ferry companies.  You can choose either a leisurely ship taking 1h30 or a fast ferry taking 50 minutes.   You can check sailing times & prices and buy tickets for multiple operators using the Direct Ferries website, or you can check each ferry operator separately at www.comarit.es (ships), www.trasmediterranea.es (fast ferry & ships),  www.balearia.com (fast ferry & ships) or www.aml.ma (ships).

  The fast ferries run by Trasmediterranea & Nautas are more modern & quicker, but you'll  be sealed-in except for a windy observation deck at the rear which may or may not be open.  The conventional ships are older and slower, but their open decks allow you to enjoy the crossing and take photographs in the open air.  Whichever ferry company you choose, the ferry sails out of Algeciras harbour in a wide arc to starboard with the Rock of Gibraltar to port, then sails across the Straits of Gibraltar into Tangier Med ferry terminal, a new and efficient concrete-and-oil-tanks port 52 km east of Tangier town.  It's a scenic crossing, and you can see for yourself just how narrow the Straits of Gibraltar between Europe and Africa really are, between the two famous Pillars of Hercules!

  Whichever ferry company you choose, it can help to know that at some point during the crossing you'll need to fill out a white landing card and have it stamped by a passport officer on board.  The passport officer may set up shop in a lounge or he may have a small office on board.  It's easy to miss announcements about this, and wonder what's happening, so forewarned is forearmed!  Also be aware that the ferries regularly run late by an hour or two, so don't plan any tight connections in Tangier, you won't make them!

  When you arrive at Tangier Med Port, you walk off the ferry and board a free transfer bus which shuttles foot passengers down the road and up the hill to the modern ferry terminal building marked Gare Maritime.  You enter the building and pass through passport control and a brief X-ray customs check into the main hall.  To get some Moroccan dirhams, there are two ATMs to your immediate left as you enter the main hall.  There are toilets in the far left corner.  You exit the terminal onto the forecourt to find taxis and buses to Tangier town.  Tangier Med Port railway station is directly underneath the ferry terminal building, but trains are not running at the moment.

  Option 1, transfer from Tanger Med Port to Tangier town by frequent Alsa bus...

  Bus LI3 run by Alsa links Tanger Med Port with Tangier railway station on downtown Tangier every 10 minutes, see www.alsa.ma/tanger/lignes and click on LI3.  It costs around 25 dirhams, about €2.50.  The bus leaves from the Gare Maritime forecourt and takes around 60 minutes.

  Option 2, transfer from Tanger Med Port to Tangier town by taxi...

  A private Grand Taxi from Tanger Med Port direct to your hotel in Tangier town will cost you 250 dirhams (300 dirhams at night) or €25-€30 and you'll find plenty of these sand-coloured Grand Taxis (mostly ancient Mercedes) parked to your right as you exit the Gare Maritime.

• Take a train from Tangier to Rabat, Casablanca, Meknès, Fez or Marrakech:  For onwards travel from Tangier southwards, see the train travel in Morocco page.

Can I stop off on the way?

• Of course.  The London-Paris Eurostar, the Paris-Barcelona TGV, the Barcelona-Madrid AVE & Madrid-Algeciras train are all ticketed separately, so feel free to book each of them on whatever dates you like, spending however long you like between trains Paris or Barcelona.

• I'd also consider a stopover at Figueres for the amazing Salvador Dali museum.  Dali's home at Port Lligat is just a bus or taxi ride away on the coast, also a museum and well worth visiting.

• The trains from Madrid to Algeciras stop at Cordoba and Ronda on the way, both wonderful places to visit.  Left luggage facilities at stations.

Why not stop off in Granada?

• You can travel from London to Barcelona to Granada as shown on the UK to Spain by train page.  See the famous Alhambra Palace, then catch one of the several daily regional trains from Granada to Algeciras, just use www.raileurope.com (easy to use, in €, £ or $, small booking fee) or www.renfe.com (see advice on using Renfe.com, no fee) or www.petrabax.com (in US$, small mark-up).

Or in Gibraltar?

• Bus M-120 links Algeciras bus station (across the road from the station) with La Linea, the frontier with Gibraltar, every 30-45 minutes, taking about 45 minutes, fare about €2.50.  You then walk across the frontier through Spanish then UK passport control into Gibraltar (5-10 minutes), then either walk (10-15 minutes) or take a taxi from the taxi stop just inside the border into Gibraltar town centre. The walk or taxi ride takes you across Gibraltar Airport's main runway, but don't worry, they stop the cars and pedestrians when a plane comes in to land!  The M-120 bus operator website is siu.ctmcg.es.

• Alternatively, a taxi from Algeciras railway station to La Linea at the gates to Gibraltar costs €24.75 (fixed-price, the Spanish taxis don't use the meter for longer runs like this, and aren't allowed to cross into Gibraltar itself).

• A fast ferry may occasionally operate from Gibraltar to Tangier (the operator is www.frs.es) but there were only Friday & Sunday evening crossings in 2008 & 2009, check what's happening now at www.frs.es.  In most cases, after visiting Gibraltar you'll need return to Algeciras by bus or taxi for the regular ferries from there.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide.  How to change trains & stations in Paris by metro or taxi.

A Eurostar e320 about to leave London St Pancras...		Standard Premier/Business Premier. Larger photo.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Barcelona by TGV Duplex:  See TGV Duplex video guide

The Paris to Barcelona TGV Duplex is an impressive 320 km/h (199 mph) double-deck high-speed train.  You board the train through a wide sliding external door into a small hall at one end of the lower deck, where an internal door opens into a lower deck seating area.  A wide, short & easy flight of stairs leads from the entrance door to a landing at one end of the upper deck.  You walk along the train from car to car at the upper level, and the café-bar is also at the upper level.  There are toilets both upstairs & downstairs.  If you have problems with stairs or very heavy luggage, the lower deck might be best.  But for the best views, definitely choose an upper deck seat.  For couples in 1st class, an upper deck club duo table-for-two is the nicest option.  More pictures & an account of what to see on the Paris to Barcelona journey.

TGV Duplex at Paris Gare de Lyon. These 320 km/h double-deck trains link Paris with Barcelona.  Watch TGV Duplex video.

Cafe-bar on upper deck car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes....		2nd class seats on upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

		>
1st class upper deck seats, club duo on the left, club quatre on the right.  360º photo.		A TGV Duplex.  The 1 near the door indicates 1st class, a 2 indicates 2nd class.

Crossing the Pyrenees...  One of the highest peaks in the mighty Pyrenees, the 2,784m (9,137 feet) Mt Canigou dominates the skyline on the right of the train all the way from Perpignan to Girona.  More pictures & an account of what to see on the Paris to Barcelona journey.

3. Barcelona to Madrid by AVE...

These superb-quality AVE high speed trains are amongst the classiest trains in Europe.  They have three classes, Comfort (premium 1st class), Comfort (1st class seating) and Standard (2nd class).  AVE trains run at up to 310 km/h (193 mph) over the Spanish high-speed lines.

An S103 AVE train as used between Barcelona & Madrid Atocha, seen at Madrid Atocha station..  Taking as little as 2h30, it's faster than flying.  See virtual tour

Standard class (2nd class) on an AVE S103.		Comfort class (1st class)  seating.

Comfort class (1st class) seating (formerly Club) on the AVE train.  A meal with wine is included on Mondays-Fridays.		Madrid Atocha station.  One of my favourite stations, the old trainshed has been preserved and turned into a tropical garden.  AVE trains arrive in the adjacent modern extension.  See the Madrid Atocha station guide.

4. Madrid to Algeciras by Intercity train...

An Intercity train (formerly branded Altaria), about to leave Madrid Atocha for Algeciras.

Cafe-bar, with bar stools...		Comfort class seats...

Standard class seats...		Algeciras station, across the road from the bus station.

Andalusian scenery seen from the train to Algeciras.  The rail line to Algeciras is one of my favourite routes, especially the last part from Antequera southwards, a scenic treat.  Watch the video...

5. Tarifa to Tangier Town by FRS ferry with free bus from Algeciras...

The FRS fast ferry seen at her berth at Tangier Town.  The ferry terminal and town are out of shot to the left.

The free FRS shuttle bus leaves from Algeciras' Estación Maritima 1 hour before each ferry departure.		It's just a 30 minute 22km drive to Tarifa.  You enter the small modern ferry terminal & board the SeaCat for Tangier...

On board the FRS fast ferry there's a refreshment counter selling food & drink, including a welcome cold beer.  There are small open-air observation decks at the rear.  Larger photo.		The FRS fast ferry at Tangier town ferry terminal.  FRS still use the old Tangier Town terminal, just 5 minutes walk from the Continental Hotel & old medina.  A more convenient & romantic place to arrive!  See the video!

Crossing the Straits of Gibraltar...  One of the world's iconic ferry journeys and an inter-continental one at that, between the Pillars of Hercules from the coast of Europe to the shores of Africa...

Tangier...  Taken from the observation deck at the stern of the FRS ferry.  The flying saucer on the left is the ferry terminal building.  The arrow indicates the recommended Continental Hotel, 5 minutes walk away.

...or Algeciras to Tangier Med Port by ferry, taxi or bus to Tangier...

Fast ferries from Algeciras to Tangier Med Port take 50-60 minutes, although you're mostly sealed in.  Here, a fast ferry sails out of Algeciras with Gibraltar in the background.		Conventional ferry at Tangier Med Port:  Conventional ships take 1½ hours, but their decks allow you to enjoy the crossing of the Straits of Gibraltar in the open air. This is a Balearia ferry.

At Tangier Med Port, you walk off the ferry and onto a free shuttle bus which transfers you along the road and up the hill to the terminal building (Gare Maritime) for passport control.		Inside Tangier Med Port Gare Maritime are passport controls, X-ray machines, check-in desks & ATMs.  Taxis wait outside, plus an hourly bus to Tangier.

The train from Tangier Med Port to Tangier Ville should be up and running...  Above left, the 17:30 from Tangier Med Port to Tangier Ville is just a locomotive and two comfortable air-conditioned carriages, connecting with the overnight couchette train to Marrakech, see the information here.  The station is easy to find, it's located directly below the ferry terminal building, integrated with it.  The trains aren't (yet) very frequent, but there are always taxis available as an alternative.  Photos courtesy of Andrew Leo.

Morocco ► London

• Travel from Marrakesh or Fez to Tangier by train: For train travel information from Marrakech, Casablanca, Rabat, Fez, Meknès to Tangier, see the train travel in Morocco page.

• Day 1, sail from Tangier Town to Tarifa by FRS fast ferry & take the free transfer bus to Algeciras, see www.frs.es.

  The FRS ferry still sails from the old ferry terminal in the heart of Tangier town, just 5 minutes walk from the Continental Hotel.  In Tangier, check-in for the ferry is a minimum of 45 minutes.  The Moroccan passport checks can be very slow, so get there sooner rather than later.  First, exchange your self-print FRS ticket for a boarding pass at the FRS office on the right as you approach the flying-saucer-like ferry terminal, then go upstairs into the terminal for passport control and boarding.  The crossing takes an hour or less, and at Tarifa the distinctive red transfer coach will be waiting outside the small but modern ferry terminal when you emerge from passport control.  The 22 km (14 mile) drive to Algeciras takes just 30 minutes through pretty hills past many wind turbines.  It arrives right in front of Algeciras passenger ferry terminal (Estación Maritima), 10 minutes walk from the railway station or the Hotel Reina Cristina.

• Alternatively, transfer to Tangier Med Port by train, bus or taxi and take a ferry to Algeciras...

  In the afternoon or evening, take a bus or taxi from Tangier town to Tangier Med Port.  Since 2010, all ferries to Algeciras leave from the new ferry terminal at Tanger Med port (Port Tanger Mediterranée, see map) some 52 km east of Tangier town.

  A frequent bus run by Alsa leaves every 10 minutes from a bus stop outside Tangier Ville railway station, see www.alsa.ma/tanger/lignes and click on LI3.  It costs around 25 dirhams (€2.50) and takes around 60 minutes.  A taxi from Tangier town to Tangier Med Port costs 250-300 dirhams or €25-€30.

  At Tanger Med Port's modern Gare Maritime there are ferry company ticket offices and check-ins, you pass through passport control and customs, then a free transfer bus shuttles you down the hill to the actual ferry dock before each ferry departure.

  On most days there's a Comarit ship which sails at 18:00 arriving in Algeciras at 20:30 and another at 20:00 arriving Algeciras at 22:30 (Spain is normally on the same time zone as Morocco, other than during Ramadan).  By all means take an earlier ship or fast ferry if you want more of an evening relaxing in Algeciras at the recommended Hotel Reina Cristina.  It's a 1hour 30 minute crossing by ship or around 1 hour by fast SeaCat.  You can check sailing times prices for multiple operators using the Direct Ferries form here, or you can check each ferry operator separately at www.comarit.es (ships), www.trasmediterranea.es (fast ferry & ships), www.balearia.com (fast ferry & ships) or www.aml.ma (ships).  If you use Tanger Med and have any feedback, please email me.

• Stay overnight in Algeciras...

  ...ideally at the characterful Hotel Reina Cristina set in its own grounds a 10 minute walk from both the station and ferry terminal.  I suggest spending the night in Algeciras for a good reason:  It may seem tempting to use a morning ferry the same day your train leaves Algeciras, but the ferries often run an hour or two late, sometimes more, so same-day connections between ferry & train in Algeciras are not recommended.

• Day 2, travel from Algeciras to Madrid by train.

  Travel from Algeciras to Madrid by Intercity train, leaving Algeciras at 08:43 and arriving Madrid Atocha at 14:05.

  The Intercity train is an articulated air-conditioned Talgo train with cafe-bar.  It takes the classic curvaceous line from Algeciras to Antequera-Santa Ana, where it is propelled through a gauge-changing shed.  This adjusts axles adjust from Iberian gauge, (5'6") to standard gauge (4'8½), used for Spanish high-speed lines.  It then joins the high-speed line for a scenic dash through the mountains to Madrid.  You'll see the wonderful scenery shown in this Gibraltar to Madrid video guide.

• Day 2, travel from Madrid to Barcelona by train.

  Travel from Madrid to Barcelona by high-speed AVE leaving Madrid Atocha at 15:00 and arriving Barcelona Sants at 17:30. 

  Tip:  If you have a Premium Comfort class ticket you can use the Sala Club at Madrid Atocha.

• Stay overnight in Barcelona...

  Hotels close to Barcelona Sants station with good or great reviews include the Hotel Barcelo Sants (4-star, great reviews, directly above Barcelona Sants station, the recommended choice), AC Hotel Sants by Marriott (4-star, just 50m from the station), Hotel Catalonia Roma (3-star), Hostal Baler (2-star), Hotel Transit (1-star), Meeting Point Hostel (inexpensive private rooms & dorm beds).

• Day 3, travel from Barcelona to Paris by TGV Duplex, leaving Barcelona Sants at 10:33 & arriving Paris Gare de Lyon 17:18.

  This 320 km/h (199 mph) double-deck high-speed train has a café-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Book an upper deck seat for the best views as the train rolls past colonies of flamingos on the étangs in southern France, then speeds along the scenic Rhone Valley towards Paris.

  Cross Paris by metro or taxi, just 2 stops on RER line D.  Why not have an early dinner in Paris and catch a later Eurostar?  The Brasserie Terminus Nord (www.terminusnord.com) is good and typically French, directly across the road from the Gare du Nord.

• Day 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 19:03 arriving London St Pancras 20:39.

	Andalusia:  The sun is low in the sky as the afternoon train from Madrid to Algeciras snakes across the Andalusian plateau on its way south to the Straits of Gibraltar...
	The Slow Boat to Africa...  Next day, aboard the ferry from Algeciras to Tangier with the Rock of Gibraltar on the port beam...

How much does it cost?

• The cost is the sum of the fares for each train & the ferry.

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £115 one-way, £199 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Barcelona by TGV starts at €39 each way in 2nd class or €59 in 1st class.  More details here.

• Barcelona to Madrid by AVE starts at €29 in standard class or €58 in comfort class (1st class).

• Madrid to Algeciras by Intercity train starts at €25 in standard class or €38 in comfort class.

• Tarifa to Tangier starts at €18 each way with FRS, with free transfer bus to/from Algeciras.

• Fares for all these trains vary like air fares, book ahead for the cheapest prices.

How to buy tickets

• Buy tickets for each of the trains at www.raileurope.com.

  This connects to the British, French & Spanish rail ticketing systems so you can buy all your tickets together in one place, easily in plain English, in €, £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem.  There's a small booking fee.  You can book a one-way or round trip in either direction.  Who are Raileurope?

• When do bookings open?

  Bookings for Eurostar open up to 180 days ahead, the Paris-Barcelona TGVs usually open 120 days ahead, I recommend waiting until you can confirm times & prices for (at least) the Paris-Barcelona TGV before committing to a non-refundable Eurostar ticket.

  Spanish AVE trains open 60 days ahead, but this can vary as Renfe releases dates in blocks pretty much when it feels like it.  By all means book London-Barcelona as soon as bookings open and wait to book the Barcelona-Algeciras part of the journey later.

• Step 1, go to www.raileurope.com and book from London to Barcelona & back by Eurostar & TGV following the simple instructions on the London to Spain page.  Allow at least 60 minutes between trains in Paris, ideally  more.  If you are returning, book London to Paris as a round trip, because with Eurostar a return fare is significantly less than two one-ways.  Beyond Paris, all trains are one-way ticketed so a round trip is simply two one-ways and you may find it easier to book one way at a time.  Add this to your basket.  More about Raileurope.

• Step 2, still on www.raileurope.com, book from Barcelona to Algeciras & back and add this to your basket.  Check out and pay for all your tickets as one transaction.

  Tip:  Click More options and add Madrid Atocha as a via station with a stopover duration of at least 45 minutes.

• Step 3, buy a ferry ticket from Algeciras or Tarifa to Tangier.  Tickets for the ferry can easily be bought at the ferry terminal when you get to Algeciras as there are regular ferries and always places available, but you can sort out your ticket before you go if you like.  The easiest way to check sailing times and prices for all ferry operators on the Spain-Tangier route is using the Direct Ferries website.  Alternatively, assuming you're going to use the FRS fast ferry from Tarifa you can of course book online direct with FRS at www.frs.es.  You make the booking between Tarifa & Tangier, their free Algeciras-Tarifa transfer bus cannot be pre-booked.

• You can also make this journey using an Interrail pass, this option is explained below.  But it isn't usually any cheaper unless you're under 28, and is more hassle to arrange than simply buying regular tickets online.  However, a pass does give more flexibility than inflexible cheap advance-purchase tickets.

How to buy tickets by phone

• It's better to book online, as you avoid phone booking fees and can see for yourself which trains have the cheaper fares.  But to buy tickets from London to Algeciras by phone, call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday.  Overseas callers call +44 844 2482483.  Unlike some other agencies, International Rail are equipped with both the French and Spanish rail ticketing systems, so can sell the cheapest fares for all the trains from the UK to Gibraltar.  They charge a £10 booking fee for bookings under £100, £20 for £100-£300, £30 above £300.  Eurostar, Trainhotel & Renfe tickets will usually be emailed to you as e-tickets, so there's no postage fee or delay.  For more information on buying European train tickets, see the How to buy European train tickets page.

Let Tailor Made Rail or Byway arrange it as a package

• Yes, there are now two tour firms which offer holidays to Morocco from the UK by train not plane, the most hassle-free way to arrange such a journey, with trains, hotels & stopovers all sorted for you.

• Tailor Made Rail's suggested tour package from London to Marrakech by train is at www.tailormaderail.com/itinerary/moroccan-discovery.  This can be customised your own requirements, one-way or round trip, with any stopovers you want.  They welcome complex itineraries!  As it's a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens on one part of the trip, for example, a national strike.  They're TTA-protected - like ATOL, but not only for agencies that sell air travel.

  Call their dedicated seat61 phone line 020 3778 1461 and quote seat 61 when booking.  From outside the UK call +44 20 3778 1461.  Lines open 09:00-17:30 Monday-Friday.

• Byway (Byway.travel) is a new UK-based eco-holiday firm with a 5-star TrustPilot rating.  If you're nervous about booking trains all the way to Morocco travel yourself, they'll book a London-Morocco holiday for for you as a package, including overnight hotels.  Byway includes package protection, a 100% Covid refund guarantee, free disruption & re-planning and on-demand WhatsApp support while you're away.

  Simply email them or use this Byway/Seat61 contact form.  Please say you heard about them from Seat 61.

How to make this journey with an Interrail pass

• If you simply want to travel to and from Morocco, forget railpasses, just buy regular advance-purchase tickets as explained above, a railpass is unlikely to save any money over these especially once you add the passholder reservation fees.

• However, if you are under 28 the youth Interrail pass may be almost as cheap as advance tickets even with the reservation fees included and better value as it gives flexibility.

• Even if you are 28 or over, a pass may still be worthwhile if you have to travel at short notice when the cheapest regular fares are sold out, or if you want to make other side trips on the way or simply want to pay extra for the flexibility a pass gives compared to train-specific, no-refunds, no-changes advance-purchase tickets bought several months ahead.  Here's how to use a railpass for this journey:

• See the Interrail pass page to check global Interrail pass prices & buy online.  The pass gives unlimited travel across most of Europe, including UK, France & Spain, as explained on the Interrail page.

• You still need to pay a Eurostar passholder fare from London to Paris, €30 each way in standard class with a 2nd class pass.  Passholder places on Eurostar are limited, so check availability before you buy the pass.  More information about Eurostar passholder fares & how to buy them.

• You also need to pay the following reservation fees:  Paris-Barcelona TGV £35, Barcelona-Madrid AVE train €10, Madrid-Algeciras Intercity train €10.  Passholder places on Eurostar and the Paris-Barcelona TGVs are limited, so book ahead.  If you find passholder places sold out, try splitting the booking or using an alternative route.  The Interrail reservation page explains how to make these passholder reservations.

• You then need to pay for the ferry to Morocco and trains in Morocco, which are not covered by the pass.  Either buy the ferry ticket when you get to Algeciras as this is easy, or book the FRS ferry from Tarifa at www.frs.es.

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Video: Tangier to Madrid by ferry & train

See for yourself how straightforward, comfortable and scenic a Morocco to Europe journey can be by train & ferry.  The video shows a journey on the FRS fast ferry from Tangier to Tarifa and the train ride from Algeciras to Madrid.

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Other routes & options

(1)  London to Morocco by GNV or Grimaldi Lines ferry Barcelona to Tangier

This is an attractive alternative to the route via Algeciras.  Indeed, with a day exploring Barcelona then a cruise to Tangier, it's a holiday in itself.  However, it's not daily and not necessarily cheap, given the cost of the cruise ferry.  Grandi Navi Veloci operate superb regular cruise ferries from Barcelona to Tangier up to 3 times a week, with Grimaldi Lines also running a cruise ferry once a week.

London ► Morocco via ferry from Barcelona

• Travel from London to Barcelona by Eurostar & TGV, arriving at 21:25, see the London to Spain page.  You may need to stay overnight, a same-day connection is sometimes possible depending on the ferry time and required check-in time.

• Check Grimaldi Lines sailing dates and times at www.grimaldi-lines.com.  Their cruise ferry usually sails at 23:59 on Sundays (which could be your day 2 from London) arriving Tangier at 10:30 on Tuesdays (day 4 from London).  Check the required check-in time carefully.

• Check Grandi Navi Veloci ferries at www.gnv.it.  GNV's ferry usually sails on Tuesdays at 17:00, on Fridays at 10:00 and on Sundays at 14:00, arriving at Tangier 26 hours later.  With a departure at 17:00 or 14:00, a departure from Barcelona on day 2 is possible, getting you to Tangier day 3.  With a 10:00 departure, the connection with the sleeper from Paris is too tight, so you'd sail on day 3, arrive Tangier day 4 from London.

• Both companies' ships are true cruise ferries, with comfortable cabins with en suite toilet and shower, swimming pools, self-service and a la carte restaurants, cinema and bars.  Having said that, don't be surprised to see many Moroccan families who haven't paid for a cabin, camped in the hallways!

• As a rough guide, Barcelona to Tangier one-way for two people sharing a 2-bed cabin in May might cost €232, in other words €116 per person.  See the Spain page for details of prices London-Barcelona. 

• To buy tickets, start with the ferry, as they only sail on certain days but the trains run daily.  Book either ferry using the Direct Ferries website or book the Grandi Navi Veloci ferry at www.gnv.it, Grimaldi Lines at www.grimaldi-lines.com.  Then book the trains from London to Barcelona as shown on the Spain page.

Morocco ► London via ferry to Barcelona

• Day 1:  To check Grandi Navi Veloci's sailing days and times, see www.gnv.it.  The cruise ferry usually sails on Mondays at 23:00, on Wednesdays at 23:00 and on Saturdays at 16:00.  The 23:00 departures arrive in Barcelona around 08:00 two nights later (day 3), the 16:00 departure arrives at 19:00 one night later (day 2).

• Day 1:  To check Grimaldi Lines sailing days and times see www.grimaldi-lines.com.  Grimaldi usually sail from Tangier on Tuesdays at 17:00, arriving Barcelona at 20:00 on Wednesdays.  Don't risk any tight connections, stay overnight in Barcelona!

• Both companies' ships are true cruise ferries, with comfortable cabins with en suite toilet and shower, swimming pools, self-service and a la carte restaurants, cinema and bars.  Having said that, don't be surprised to see many Moroccan families who haven't paid for a cabin, camped in the hallways!

• Day 3:  Travel from Barcelona to London by TGV & Eurostar, arriving London in the evening, see the London to Spain page.

On board a Grimaldi Lines ferry from Barcelona to Tangier Med Port

Chaos in cabin 725.  The author's family in a 4-berth cabin on Grimaldi Lines ferry to Tangier...		The a la carte restaurant on Grimaldi Lines' Ikarus palace from Barcelona to Tangier...

In the Straits of Gibraltar...		Swimming pools...		Sunset at sea...

(2)  France to Morocco by GNV ferry

If you prefer a longer sea voyage, there are regular passenger ships from Sète in the South of France to Tangier, originally run by Comanav (Compagnie Maroccaine de Navigation), now taken over by the Italian ferry operator Grandi Navi Veloci.  See www.gnv.it for sailing dates, fares & online booking.  It's easy to get from London to Sète by train - You can check train times & buy tickets online at www.raileurope.com.  Allow several hours minimum to connect in Sète, if necessary staying overnight.

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On arrival in Tangier

Tangier's Continental Hotel: Check prices

In Tangier, easily the most interesting, historic & atmospheric place to stay is the venerable Continental Hotel.  Whatever your budget, and it's one of my favourite places.  If you arrive by FRS fast ferry from Tarifa, you'll easily spot it on your right high up on the edge of the Medina as you walk into town - as I did, the first time I stayed there in 1984.  Opened by a British family in 1888 and used by many famous people including (allegedly) Winston Churchill and Queen Victoria's son Alfred, it's a travellers' favourite, with classic Moroccan décor and an atmosphere straight out of Agatha Christie - indeed, it's been used as a film location at various times. 

In spite of all this history, it's cheap, a single room with shower & toilet costs around 595 dirhams (£49) per night including a light breakfast, a double room with shower & toilet around 735 dirhams (£61) including breakfast.  Ask for a room on the first floor with a balcony overlooking the port and new town.  Rooms are fairly basic, only a handful have A/C, but they have clean en suite showers & toilets, the hotel is handy for the FRS ferry, superbly located inside the old medina walls a stone's throw from the old town centre, Petit Socco & Grand Socco.  The hotel now has free WiFi and 24 hour reception.  It has a good and cheap restaurant for lunch and dinner, too, although alcohol isn't served.  Rooms can now be booked online at Booking.com.  Or just turn up, they usually have rooms available.  The address is 36, Dar Baroud (Medina), Tangier

Tip:  There's a flight of steps straight up to the hotel, but you can see how high the hotel is in the photo below.  If you have heavy luggage you might prefer to zig-zag further into town then turn right up the sloping road to the hotel.

The Continental Hotel, Tangier...

Reception...		View of the port from my balcony...

Things to see in Tangier

Tangier sometimes gets a bad press from travellers who are hassled by a few touts at the port, who then hurry through without seeing it and tell everyone else to do the same.  This is very short-sighted, as Tangier is the intriguing and atmospheric city where Europe meets Africa.  Indeed, fans of the film Casablanca will find it a much more plausible setting for Rick, Elsa, Captain Renault and Major Strasser than the big and unremarkable city to the south.  Tangier was an international zone from 1923 until its incorporation with Morocco in 1956, and it really was awash with spies from both sides in world war 2.  It retains an air of mystery and intrigue even today, although I've always felt very safe there.  It's a wonderful and fascinating place to spend a day or two, so make sure you include it in your itinerary.

Make sure you see the medina (old town), kasbah (fort), the Petit Socco (small square, be sure to have a coffee or mint tea here) and Grand Socco (large square), the lovely English Church, and Tangier American Legation museum (the first bit of overseas territory ever acquired by the United States).  For more information on Tangier, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tangier.

The English church, Tangier...		Inside the English church...

Where next?  Take the train to Fez, Casablanca & Marrakech

Modern air-conditioned trains are waiting to whisk you south to the rest of Morocco, see the Train travel in Morocco page.  Rabat is the country's capital and well worth a stop; Casablanca is certainly a name to conjure with (you have to say you've been there!) but in reality it's just a large city.  Marrakech is the obvious destination, and a worthy (if touristy) one.  Why not hire a car for a few days and explore the country south of Marrakech?  Meknès & Fez are amazing places, as good or better than Marrakech with fewer tourists, so don't miss them!

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Guidebooks

Make sure you take a good guidebook.  Easily the best guidebooks for the independent traveller are Lonely Planets and Rough Guides.  Both provide an excellent level of practical information and historical background.  You won't regret buying one of these!

Click the images to buy online at Amazon.co.uk

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European Rail Timetable & maps

The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted.  See an extract from the map.  Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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Hotels in Morocco

In Algeciras:  For Algeciras hotels, click here.  I recommend the Hotel Reina Cristina, which is easily the best hotel in Algeciras as well as the most historic, set in its own grounds just 10 minutes walk from either rail station or ferry passenger terminal.  For such a grande dame of a hotel, it's remarkably inexpensive.

In Tangier, the classic and wonderfully atmospheric Continental Hotel is the top choice, and inexpensive.  Ideally located for both port and old medina, and with its own restaurant too.  It can now be booked online at Booking.com.

In Marrakech, the Hotel Islane is a good mid-range choice at around €35-€45 (£26-£31) per room per night, with an excellent central location just round the corner from the Jemaa el Fnaa, the main market square.  It also has a good rooftop restaurant.  The most famous hotel in Marrakech is of course the top-notch La Mamounia Hotel, if you can (a) afford it and (b) get a room!

You can arrange hotels before booking opens for train tickets if you use a site with free cancellation such as www.booking.com.

My favourite hotel search site: www.booking.com www.booking.com is my favourite hotel booking site and I generally prefer booking my hotels all in one place here.  You can usually book with free cancellation - this allows you to confirm your accommodation at no risk before train booking opens.  It also means you can hold accommodation while you finalise your itinerary, and alter your plans as they evolve - a feature I use all the time when putting a trip together.  I never book hotels non-refundably.  I have also come to trust their review scores - you won't be disappointed with anything over 8.0. Tip:  It can pay to compare prices across multiple hotel sites:  HotelsCombined.com is a price comparison site which compares hotel prices on Booking.com, Hotels.com, Expedia, Accor, Agoda and many others.  Though if there's not much in it, I prefer keeping all my bookings together in one place at www.booking.com.

Hotel Reina Cristina, Algeciras:  Book here...

The classic Hotel Reina Cristina is easily the best place to stay in Algeciras, set in its own grounds just 10 minutes walk from both rail station and ferry terminal.

Backpacker hostels...

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Car hire in Morocco

Hiring a car isn't the first thing you'd think of in Morocco, but the roads are relatively empty and driving is surprisingly easy.  If you've a few days to spare when you get to Marrakech I highly recommend hiring a car and driving south over the High Atlas Mountains via the absolutely incredible Tizi n Tichka Pass, perhaps the most amazing road I've ever driven.  Stay the night at the Kasbah at Tifletout (now a hotel) and visit the Gorge du Dadès, Todra Gorge, and the remarkable mud-built town of Aït ben Haddou.  Driving really isn't difficult, indeed the roads are far less crowded than in the UK or Europe, making it a very pleasant way to get around the countryside.  Instead of searching multiple websites to sort out your car, try this search engine which compares different hire companies' prices.

Compare 50 different car hire companies:  www.carrentals.co.uk

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Travel insurance & other tips

Always take out travel insurance

You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer.  It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit.  These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself.  Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.

  www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection and gets 4.7 out of 5 on Trustpilot.

  www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get an eSIM with mobile data package for Europe

Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for Europe and stay connected.  Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list.  Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.

Get a Curve card for foreign travel

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader.  The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than getting a card out).  I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  VPNs & why you need one explained

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi.  It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply.  See VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription.  I get a small commission to help support this site.

Always carry an Anker powerbank

Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged.  I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet.  Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from Buy from Amazon.com.

Touring cities & museums?  Use hill walking shoes!

One of the best things I've done is swap my normal shoes for hill-walking shoes, in my case from Scarpa.  They're intended for hiking across the Pennines not wandering around Florence, but the support and cushioning for hiking works equally well when you're on your feet all day exploring foreign cities.  My feet used to give out first and limit my day, now the rest of me gives up before they do!

 

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