UK to Finland without flying...

It's easy to travel from London to Helsinki by train and ferry, a wonderful 2-day 3-night journey across Scandinavia with a lot to see on the way.  It's a great alternative to an unnecessary flight.  On this page you'll find a step-by-step guide to planning, booking & making a journey from the UK to Finland by train or ferry, with train & ferry timetables, approximate fares, and the best way to buy tickets.

Train times, fares & tickets...

  Which route should you choose?

  UK to Scandinavia route map

  London to Helsinki via Stockholm using a sleeper

  London to Helsinki via Stockholm with overnight stops

  London to Helsinki via ferry from Travemünde

  Train travel in Finland: Night Train to Lapland...

  Helsinki to other European cities by train or ferry

  Other European cities to Helsinki by train or ferry

  Helsinki to St Petersburg & Moscow by train

  Helsinki central station information

Useful country information

Which route should you choose?

There are several good options for reaching Finland in comfort without flying:

• Option 1, London to Helsinki using the Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper...

  This is the nicest way from the UK to Helsinki & Finland, taking 2 days, 3 nights, it's the route shown in red on the route map below.  Those 2 days include an afternoon at leisure in Hamburg and the best part of a day exploring Stockholm - make sure you see the amazing Vasa museum!  It includes a ride on a sleeper train from Hamburg to Stockholm and the highlight, a cruise across the Baltic from Stockholm to Helsinki, past the many beautiful islands.  In the inbound direction it takes just 48 hours, still with a day to explore Stockholm.  Times, fares & how to buy tickets are shown below.

• Option 2, London to Helsinki via Stockholm with overnight stops...

  This also follows the route shown in red on the route map below, but instead of sleepers & overnight ferries it uses daytime trains with an overnight hotel stop in Hamburg and Stockholm.  That means it's not as time-effective as option 1, it takes 3 days & 2 nights and if you want any time in Hamburg or Stockholm you'll have to add a day.  But if you prefer day trains and hotels to sleepers & ferry cabins, this is the option to take.  Times, fares & how to buy tickets are shown below.

• Option 3, London to Helsinki by train to Hamburg then ferry from Travemünde to Finland:  Take a morning Eurostar to Brussels & onward trains to Hamburg, spend the night there before taking a local train to Travemünde and the daily Finnlines ferry from Travemünde to Helsinki.  This route is shown in dark blue on the route map below.  Times, fares & how to buy tickets are shown below.

Option 1:  London to Stockholm using the Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper...

This is easily the nicest way from the UK to Helsinki & Finland, taking 2 days, 3 nights, including an afternoon at leisure in Hamburg and the best part of a day to explore Stockholm and its amazing Vasa museum.  It includes a ride on a sleeper train from Hamburg to Stockholm and the highlight is a cruise across the Baltic from Stockholm to Helsinki, past the many beautiful islands.  In the inbound direction this option takes just 48 hours, still with a day to explore Stockholm.

London ► Helsinki

• Day 1, travel from London to Brussels on any evening Eurostar you like.

  The last Eurostar usually leaves London St Pancras at 19:34 arriving Brussels Midi at 22:38, but by all means travel earlier for a pleasant evening in Brussels.  Check times at www.eurostar.com.

  In theory, a same-day connection with the Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper is possible on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays but for reliability I strongly recommend an overnight stop in Brussels as shown here.

• Stay overnight in Brussels.  I recommend the excellent Pullman Hotel Brussels Midi which is an integral part of Brussels Midi station itself, or the inexpensive Ibis Brussels Midi just across the road.

• Day 2, travel from Brussels to Hamburg, leaving Brussels Midi at 08:23, change at Cologne Hbf, arriving Hamburg Altona 15:14.

  You travel from Brussels to Cologne & Cologne to Hamburg by superb German ICE train, with restaurant, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

  Enjoy an afternoon in Hamburg.

• Day 2, travel from Hamburg to Stockholm by sleeper train, leaving Hamburg Altona at 21:19, arriving Stockholm Central 09:55 next morning.

  Subject to confirmation, from 31 March 2023 this train will instead leave from Hamburg Hbf at 22:01.

  This new EuroNight sleeper train has sleeping-cars with compact 1 & 2 berth compartments with washbasin & several 1, 2 or 3 bed deluxe compartments with en suite toilet & shower.  It has comfortable couchette cars with 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  More information about the Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper train.

• Day 3, spend the day exploring Stockholm and sail overnight from Stockholm to Helsinki by Silja Line ferry...

  Silja Line offers a luxurious overnight ferry from Stockholm direct to Helsinki, www.tallinksilja.com, sailing at 16:45 every day arriving in Helsinki at 10:30 next morning (day 4 from London).  Their ships are the superb Silja Serenade and Silja Symphony.

  Viking Line also operates this route, but now only every other day, sailing at 16:30.  Their ship is the Gabriella.

  It's a very scenic voyage, as the liner sails out of Stockholm past all the islands, see the video.  You can have dinner in the restaurant and retire to your cabin, or party all night in the nightclub, it's up to you...

  In Stockholm, the easiest way to reach Silja Line's Värtahamnen ferry terminal is to take the Tunnelbana (metro) from T-Centralen (Central Station) to Gärdet, just 3 stops on line T13 towards Ropsten.  The Tunnelbana accepts contactless bank cards, you just touch in and out.  From Gärdet station it's a easy well-signed 12-minute 1km walk to the Värtahamnen terminal, see walking map.  You won't be the only person walking it!

  Silja Line also operates a transfer bus from Stockholm Cityterminal (next to Stockholm Central) to the terminal, buy tickets from the ticket machines or from the driver, check times at the Silja Line website.  Or you can take a taxi.

  At the Värtahamnen terminal, check-in for the ferry is painless:  Walk up to one of the self-service check-in machines, click the touch screen for English, scan the ferry ticket barcode on your phone or printout, click to confirm and out pops your ferry boarding pass which is also your cabin key.  Go through the automatic gates using the boarding pass and walk onto the ferry.

  In Helsinki, it's an easy 1.8 km 23-minute walk from Silja Line's Olympia ferry terminal to Helsinki station.  Or if you walk out of the terminal and turn right, you'll see the tram terminus for trams 2 & 3.  Buy a ticket from the machine using a contactless bank card, tram 2 will get you to a stop in the city centre a block away from Helsinki station, tram 3 takes a slightly longer route but goes to the tram stop right outside Helsinki station.  Helsinki's iconic cathedral is a 1.3 km 16-minute walk from the ferry terminal.

  See map of Stockholm showing ferry terminals.  See map of Helsinki showing ferry terminals.

  Tip:  The direct Stockholm-Helsinki ferry is the nicest option, but the alternative ferry+train service from Stockholm to Helsinki via Turku is cheaper and allows a much later departure from Stockholm (so gives more of a day there) with a similar arrival time at Helsinki.  See details here.

Helsinki ► London

• Day 1, travel from Helsinki to Stockholm overnight by luxurious Silja Line ferry...

  Silja Line (www.tallinksilja.com) offers a luxurious overnight cruise ferry direct from Helsinki to Stockholm every day, sailing from Helsinki Olympia Terminal at 17:00 arriving in Stockholm Värtahamnen at about 09:45 next morning, after sailing past the many islands.

  A range of comfortable cabins is available.  Map of Helsinki showing Silja terminal.

  Viking Line (www.vikingline.fi) also operates this route, but only every second day.

  Spend day 2 exploring Stockholm...

  Tip:  The direct Helsinki-Stockholm ferry is the nicest option, but the alternative train+ferry service from Helsinki to Stockholm via Turku is cheaper and gets to Stockholm earlier for more of a day there - with a similar departure time from Helsinki.  See details here.

• Day 2, travel from Stockholm to Hamburg by sleeper train, leaving Stockholm Central at 17:34 and arriving Hamburg Altona at 06:37.

  Subject to confirmation, from 31 March 2023 this train is being extended to Berlin, so will instead arrive at Hamburg Hbf at 06:01.

  This new EuroNight sleeper train started running on 1 September 2022.  It has sleeping-cars with compact 1 & 2 berth compartments with washbasin, several 1, 2 or 3 bed deluxe compartments with en suite toilet & shower, couchette cars with 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  The sleeping-cars are former Austrian Railways AB32s, refurbished.  More information about the Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper train.

• Day 3, travel from Hamburg to Brussels by train, leaving Hamburg Altona at 08:29, change at Cologne Hbf, arriving Brussels Midi at 15:35.

  You travel on comfortable ICE trains with restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

  Tip:  Allow at least 1 hour between trains in Hamburg when connecting out of the sleeper, ideally 1-2 hours. 

  Tip:  An earlier arrival is possible using Thalys between Cologne & Brussels, but I recommend using the trains shown above as this gets you (a) a cheaper price and (b) a through ticket with cast-iron passenger rights in the event of a delay and missed connection in Cologne.

• Day 3, travel from Brussels to London by Eurostar, leaving Brussels Midi at 17:56 every day arriving London St Pancras at 19:10.

How much does it cost?

• London to Brussels by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £115 one-way, £199 return standard premier (1st class).

• Brussels to Hamburg starts at €27.90 each way in 2nd class or €59.90 each way in 1st class.

• Hamburg to Stockholm by sleeper train starts at €44.90 with a couchette in 6-berth, €69.90 with a couchette in 4-berth, €79.90 with a bed in a 2-bed sleeper or €164.90 with a single-bed sleeper all to yourself.  All prices per person per bed.

• Stockholm to Helsinki by direct overnight ferry starts from around €88 including a bed in a shared 4-berth with Viking Line or €111 with sole occupancy of a cabin with Silja Line.  But there are whole range of cabin types and prices, just check both ferry company websites.

• All these fares are dynamic, varying like air fares, so book ahead.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, book London to Brussels by Eurostar at www.eurostar.com.

  Tip:  If returning, book Eurostar as a round trip, because unlike most other European trains, a return ticket costs less than two one-ways.

• Step 2, book Brussels to Hamburg Altona at the German Railways website www.bahn.de. 

  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket or can show it on your laptop or phone.  I recommend registering when prompted, so you can log on at any time and check or reprint tickets.

• Step 3, book Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper tickets at the Swedish Railways website www.sj.se.

  Booking opens several months ahead, you print your own ticket or can show it on your phone.

• Step 4, book the Stockholm-Helsinki ferry at www.tallinksilja.com or the Direct Ferries website (which can book both Silja Line and Viking Line).

What's the journey like?

1. London to Brussels by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Brussels in just 2 hours, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Brussels Midi station guide & short cut for changing trains in Brussels.

A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		Standard Premier/Business Premier.  Larger photo.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Brussels to Cologne & Cologne to Hamburg by ICE...

Germany's superb ICEs have a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  In 1st class, bistro orders are taken at your seat.  50 minutes after leaving Brussels the ICE calls at Liège, where you can admire the impressive station designed by celebrity architect Santiago Calatrava.  As you approach Cologne Hbf you'll see the twin towers of Cologne Cathedral on the right, next to the station.  More information about ICE3.  Brussels Midi station guide.  Cologne Hbf station guide.  Hamburg Hbf station guide

An ICE3M to Cologne at Brussels Midi.  More information about ICE.  Advice on changing trains in Brussels.

2nd class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.		1st class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

Proper china, metal cutlery.  I recommend the Erdinger Weissbier!  See current month's menu.		Restaurant car:  This is the small 12-seat restaurant area on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

4. Hamburg to Stockholm by SJ EuroNight sleeper train...

Run by SJ (Swedish Railways), this EuroNight train has one or two couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments.  The couchettes convert from bunks at night to seats by day.  Each couchette is supplied with rug, sheets and pillow which you arrange yourself.  A carton of drinking water is supplied, and each compartment has two power sockets for laptops & mobiles.  Limited food & drink (including beer & wine) can be ordered from the train staff, you can see the menu at www.sj.se/en/travel-info/sj-euronight.html.  A simple breakfast box with jam, butter, rolls, yoghurt and a tea or coffee can be ordered the night before for delivery at the time of your choosing next morning.  The train should also have several seats cars and one sleeping-car with 1 & 2 bed compartments with washbasin, these have been delayed by technical issues but should be added later.  Unlike most other European night trains, as this train is Swedish you are not permitted to consume your own alcohol.  More information about the Hamburg-Stockholm sleeper train.

The inaugural Hamburg to Stockholm SJ EuroNight train at Hamburg Altona, 1 September 2022.  The author rode this first departure...		6-berth couchettes. Larger photo.

Couchettes in day mode, en route to Stockholm.  Larger photo.		The inaugural train from Hamburg to Stockholm calls at Padborg, just after entering Denmark.

Typical Swedish scenery on the morning run into Stockholm...

5. Stockholm to Helsinki by overnight ferry...

An Silja Line ferry links Stockholm with Helsinki overnight every day, and a Viking Line ferry sails overnight to a similar schedule every second day.  It's a much more relaxed affair than the Stockholm-Turku route.  You can board an hour an a half before sailing rather than 15 minutes before, the ferry sails late afternoon so you have a whole evening on the ship, and there's time for a lie-in and leisurely breakfast with a late-morning arrival.  The facilities on board are top-class, from the Grande Buffet to the Lobster restaurant.  A full range of cabins is available, including suites.

The Silja Serenade at her berth in Helsinki.  Sister ship Silja Symphony is virtually identical.

A class cabin on Silja Serenade.  Larger photo.		Deluxe cabin on Silja Serenade.  Larger photo.

Grande Buffet on the Silja Serenade.		Central promenade on Silja Serenade.  Larger photo.

Good night Sweden!  Sunset as the Silja Serenade sails slowly past the many islands out of Stockholm into the Baltic...

Good morning Finland!  Make sure you're on deck for the approach to Helsinki.  The ships sails past the King's Steps on the fortress island of Suomenlinna, past the Finnish WW2 submarine Vesikko and through a remarkably narrow gap between Suomenlinna and neighbouring island Vallisaari to reach Helsinki harbour.  This photo was indeed taken from the Silja Serenade!

The ferry docks in Helsinki, walking distance from all the sights.  Alternatively, a number 2 or 3 tram will take you from the Olympia ferry terminal to Helsinki station in the city centre.

Back to top

Option 2, London to Helsinki with overnight stops...

You travel from London to Hamburg by Eurostar & onward trains on day 1, stay overnight in Hamburg, then travel from Hamburg to Stockholm on day 2.  Take a bottle of wine and a good book, and enjoy a 2-day train ride across Europe on modern & comfortable trains with not an airport security queue in sight.  Stay overnight in Stockholm then take the daytime ferry+train service to Helsinki next day.  Or spend the day exploring Stockholm and take the overnight cruise ferry to Helsinki with a comfortable en suite cabin reserved.  What's the journey like?

London ► Helsinki

• Day 1, travel from London to Hamburg by train, for example...

  Leave London St Pancras at 11:04 by Eurostar to Brussels Midi, ICE3 train to Cologne, & EuroCity to Hamburg Hbf arriving 21:14.

  By all means travel earlier for more of an evening in Hamburg, see the London-Hamburg timetable on the London to Germany page.

• Stay overnight in Hamburg...

  The Hotel Reichshof Hamburg is the top choice here, just across the road 100m from the station's Kirchenallee exit, with art deco-based design and great reviews.  Other hotels near Hamburg Hbf with good or great reviews include (starting with the cheapest) the Hotel Continental Novum, Hotel Furst Bismarck, Hotel Europaischer Hof, Hotel Atlantic Kempinski.  If you're on a budget, cheap private rooms in the A&O Hotel near Hamburg Hbf can be booked at www.hostelworld.com.

• Day 2, travel from Hamburg to Stockholm by train...

  For most of the year you can leave Hamburg Hbf at 08:56 by Danish Intercity train arriving Copenhagen 13:34, then leave Copenhagen at 14:21 by X2000 train arriving Stockholm Central 19:36.

  From 17 June to 20 August 2023 you can leave Hamburg Hbf at 06:45 by Danish Intercity train arriving Copenhagen 11:34, then leave Copenhagen at 12:21 by X2000 arriving Stockholm Central 17:37.  Or you can leave Hamburg Hbf at 10:53 by Danish Intercity train arriving Copenhagen 15:34, then leave Copenhagen at 16:21 by X2000 arriving Stockholm Central 21:38.

  Check train times from Hamburg to Stockholm at www.bahn.de.  Tip:  Click Stopover and enter Copenhagen. Now click Types of transport and change admit changes to direct connections for both Hamburg-Copenhagen and Copenhagen-Stockholm, to ensure a 1-change journey.

  Trains from Copenhagen to Stockholm cross the impressive Öresund Fixed Link, a tunnel & double-deck road/rail bridge opened in 1999 linking Denmark with Sweden.  More information about the Hamburg to Copenhagen journey.  More information about X2000 tilting trains.

• Stay overnight in Stockholm.  Check hotels in Stockholm.

• Day 3, travel from Stockholm to Helsinki by ferry & train...

  Viking Line (www.vikingline.fi) sails from Stockholm Stadsgården terminal at 07:45 every day, arriving in Turku at 19:50.

  The luxurious Viking Grace or Viking Glory has a range of standard & deluxe cabins, restaurants, bars and lounges.  A cabin is optional on the day crossing, but I recommend one as somewhere to nap, shower, relax in private.  See map of Stockholm showing ferry terminals.  How to reach Stockholm's Viking Line terminal.

  In Turku, it's just 100m from the Viking Line terminal to Turku Port station, see map.

  A connecting double-deck InterCity train leaves Turku Port (Turku Satama) station at 20:25 & arrives at Helsinki station at 22:56.

  This is a boat train specifically timed to connect with the ferry from Stockholm.  It has Eko (2nd) & Ekstra (1st) class, a bistro, playroom & various seating options, see more information about this Intercity train.

  Update:  For 2 years from Autumn 2022, a bus will replace the train between Turku Port & Kupittaa (east Turku), but the bus is well-signed & well-organised.  The bus leaves from the car park next to Turku Port station platforms.  More information about this Intercity train.

  Alternatively, spend the day in Stockholm and take the direct ferry from Stockholm to Helsinki as in option 1.

Helsinki ► London

• Day 1, travel from Helsinki to Stockholm by train & ferry...

  Leave Helsinki station at 05:28 Mondays-Fridays only by double-deck InterCity train, arriving Turku Port (Turku Satama) at 07:40.

  This is a boat train specifically timed to connect with the ferry to Stockholm.  It has Eko (2nd) & Ekstra (1st) class, a bistro, playroom & various seating options, see more information about this Intercity train.

  In Turku, it's just 100m from Turku Port station to the Viking Line terminal, see map.

  Update:  For 2 years from Autumn 2022, a bus will temporarily replace the train from Kupittaa (eastern Turku) to Turku Port, but it' well-signed & well-organised.  The bus arrives at the car park next to Turku Port station platforms.

  Viking Line (www.vikingline.fi) sails from Turku at 08:45 arriving Stockholm Stadsgården ferry terminal at 18:55.

  The luxurious Viking Grace or Viking Glory has a range of standard & deluxe cabins, restaurants, bars and lounges.  A cabin is optional on the day crossing, but I recommend one as somewhere to nap, shower, relax in private.  See map of Stockholm showing ferry terminals.

• Stay overnight in Stockholm.  Check hotels in Stockholm.

• Day 2, travel from Stockholm to Hamburg by train...

  For most of the year you can leave Stockholm Central at 08:21 by X2000 tilting train arriving Copenhagen 13:25, then leave Copenhagen at 15:26 by Danish Intercity train arriving Hamburg Hbf at 20:02.

  From 17 June to 20 August 2023 you leave Stockholm Central at 10:21 by X2000 tilting train arriving Copenhagen 15:25, then leave Copenhagen at 17:26 by Danish Intercity train arriving Hamburg Hbf at 21:57.

  You can check train times from Stockholm to Hamburg at the German Railways website www.bahn.de.  Tip: Click Stopover, enter Copenhagen, click Types of transport and change admit changes to direct connections for both Stockholm-Copenhagen and Copenhagen-Hamburg, to ensure a 1-change journey.

  Trains from Stockholm to Copenhagen cross the impressive Öresund Fixed Link, a tunnel & double-deck road/rail bridge opened in 1999 linking Denmark with Sweden.  More information about X2000 tilting trains.  More information about the Copenhagen to Hamburg journey.

• Stay overnight in Hamburg...

  The Hotel Reichshof Hamburg is the top choice here, just across the road 100m from the station's Kirchenallee exit, with art deco-based design and great reviews.  Other hotels near Hamburg Hbf with good or great reviews include (starting with the cheapest) the Hotel Continental Novum, Hotel Furst Bismarck, Hotel Europaischer Hof, Hotel Atlantic Kempinski.  If you're on a budget, cheap private rooms in the A&O Hotel near Hamburg Hbf can be booked at www.hostelworld.com.

• Day 2, travel from Hamburg to London by train...

  For example, the first departure leaves Hamburg Hbf at 06:45, change at Cologne Hbf & Brussels Midi to arrive London St Pancras at 16:57.

  Or you can leave Hamburg at 08:45 arriving London at 19:10.  Or leave Hamburg at 12:50 arriving London at 21:57 (21:27 on Saturdays), see the Hamburg to London timetable on the London to Germany page.

How much does it cost?

• London to Brussels by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £115 one-way, £199 return standard premier (1st class).

• Brussels to Hamburg starts at €27.90 each way in 2nd class or €56.90 each way  in 1st class.

• Hamburg to Stockholm starts at €56.90 each way in 2nd class.

  These train fares are dynamic like air fares, so book early for the cheapest prices and avoid busy days such as Fridays or Sunday afternoons.

• Stockholm to Turku by Viking Line ferry costs as little as €15 each way without any cabin accommodation, but you can add various types of private cabin from €13 upwards.  Silja Line is similarly priced.

• Turku to Helsinki by train costs starts at €7.90 in Eco (2nd) class or €18.80 in Ekstra (1st) class booked in advance.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, book from London to Hamburg (and back, if returning) at www.raileurope.com and add to basket...

• Step 2, book from Hamburg to Stockholm at www.raileurope.com, add to basket and check out...

  Booking tips...

  Anyone from any country can use www.raileurope.com, it allows you to book all your tickets together in one place in plain English, international credit cards accepted and fares shown in multiple currencies. There's a small booking fee.

  Booking for all these trains usually opens up to 180 days ahead, but significantly less than this when the mid-December timetable change intervenes, see more about when booking opens.

  Fares are dynamic like air fares, for the cheapest prices book early and avoid busy days such as Fridays or Sunday afternoons.

  Eurostar return fares are significantly cheaper than two one ways, so any return journey involving Eurostar is best booked as a round trip.  However, with the Brussels-Hamburg & Hamburg-Stockholm tickets a round trip is simply two one-ways, so makes no difference.

  A seat reservation is automatically included with every ticket on Eurostar and on Swedish X2000s.  However, seat reservations on the German & Danish trains between Brussels & Copenhagen are usually optional, if you want a reserved seat it can be added during the booking process for fee of around €4.50 each way.  A reserved seat is a good idea, especially at busy periods, so I'd add one when prompted.

  You print your own tickets, or after booking you can load the Eurostar ticket into the Eurostar app, and show the DB tickets on your laptop or phone.

  After booking you can use the Eurostar Manage Booking system to select an exact seat on Eurostar.

  About those tight 20-minute connections at Brussels Midi...

  The slick 20-minute connection in Brussels between Eurostar and an onward ICE, sometimes less than this, is usually a recognised connection which lots of people make.  It's not usually a problem, especially if you use the Brussels Midi short cut between platforms.  Even though the system sells you separate tickets either side of Brussels, you are protected by the Railteam Promise/HOTNAT so if there's a delay and you miss the connection you will be allowed to travel on later onwards trains at no extra charge.  Just make sure that if you did miss that 20 minute connection in Brussels, there are later trains that would still get you to Hamburg by close of play that day.

  Alternatively, nothing stops you booking an earlier Eurostar than the one which directly connects with your chosen onward ICE, if it has cheaper fares or if you want a more robust connection.  To do this using www.raileurope.com, click More options, then enter Brussels (any station) as a via station with a stopover duration of (say) 1 or 2 hours.  There are plenty of places for a meal, coffee or beer between trains in Brussels!

  If you don't see any cheap Hamburg-Stockholm fares...

  Availability of Hamburg-Stockholm tickets is limited, so if you don't find any cheap fares between Hamburg and Stockholm using www.raileurope.com, split the booking like this:

  First book Hamburg to Copenhagen at German Railways www.bahn.de and print your own ticket.

  Then book Copenhagen to Stockholm using either Omio.com (small booking fee, happily accepts overseas credit cards, you can pay in Swedish Kr, £, € and $) or www.sj.se (in Swedish Krona, no booking fee, you can usually choose a specific seat from a seating plan, but it can sometimes be fussy with overseas credit cards).  You simply print out your own ticket or show it on your phone, or you can choose to collect tickets from the SJ ticket machines at Copenhagen station.

• Step 3, book the ferry from Stockholm to Turku...

  You can check sailing dates & prices for both Viking Line & Silja Line ferries on both the Stockholm-Turku & Stockholm-Helsinki routes at the Direct Ferries website.  Remember to select '18+' for adults and change With vehicle to No vehicle.  The price you initially see is for a basic passenger place on the ferry, you can add a cabin at the next stage.  When you book online you will be emailed a confirmation which you present at check-in to exchange for your boarding pass.

  Alternatively you can book direct with the relevant operator at www.vikingline.fi or www.tallinksilja.com.  You can book individual beds in shared cabins if you book directly with the operator, which is much cheaper than sole occupancy, that's the one thing Direct ferries can't do.

• Step 4, book the train from Turku to Helsinki:  If you book the daytime or overnight Stockholm-Turku ferry, you'll need an onward train ticket to Helsinki.  You can do this online at www.vr.fi (click 'EN' for English).  It's Turku Harbour (Satama) station that you should select.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• Step 1:  Buy your train tickets from London to Stockholm.  You can buy all these tickets through a number of UK agencies, but the best for this trip is probably Deutsche Bahn's UK phone line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).  Click here for a list of agencies and more info on how to book.

• Step 2:  Book the Viking Line ferry at the Direct Ferries website or www.vikingline.fi or by phone though its UK agent, Emagine Ltd, on 01942 262662.  Book the Silja Line ferry at the Direct Ferries website or www.tallinksilja.com or through their UK agents, DFDS Seaways, on 0871 522 9955.

Let Railbookers arrange it...

• If you want a custom-made trip with train & ferry travel, hotels & transfers all arranged for you, contact Railbookers.  Tell them what you want and they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels and sort it all out.  They get positive reviews and look after their customers very well.

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk. 

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

    Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

    Australia call toll-free 1300 971 52 see website. 

    New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Brussels by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Brussels in just 2 hours, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Brussels Midi station guide & short cut for changing trains in Brussels.

A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		Standard Premier/Business Premier.  Larger photo.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Brussels to Cologne by ICE3...

Germany's superb ICEs have a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  In 1st class, bistro orders are taken at your seat.  50 minutes after leaving Brussels the ICE calls at Liège, where you can admire the impressive station designed by celebrity architect Santiago Calatrava.  As you approach Cologne Hbf you'll see the twin towers of Cologne Cathedral on the right, next to the station.  More information about ICE3.  Brussels Midi station guide.  Cologne Hbf station guide.

An ICE3M to Cologne at Brussels Midi.  More information about ICE.  Advice on changing trains in Brussels.

2nd class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.		1st class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

Proper china & metal cutlery...  I recommend the Erdinger Weissbier! See  current month's menu.		Restaurant car:  This is the small 12-seat restaurant on an ICE3M...  Larger photo.

3. Cologne to Hamburg by Intercity train...

Germany Intercity trains travel at up to 200km/h (120mph), with power sockets at all seats and a bistro car serving tea, coffee, wine, beer, snacks and hot dishes.  On the Cologne to Hamburg route you'll find some departures are operated by high-speed ICEs (usually ICE1) rather than Intercity trains, although the ICEs are no faster than ICs on this section of line.  More information about Intercity trains.  Hamburg Hbf station guide.

A German Intercity train.  More information about Intercity trains.

Dinner in the bistro.  The beef ribs were delicious...		Bistro car.  See current month's menu...

2nd class seating is usually in open-plan saloons like this, most seats unidirectional, but with some tables for 4.  Sometimes you'll find 2nd class compartment cars with side corridor and ten 6-seat compartments  Larger photo.

4. Hamburg to Copenhagen by Intercity train

Hamburg-Copenhagen trains are operated by Danish IC3 trains like this, shown in the timetable as IC for Intercity.  See more photos, tips & information about the Hamburg to Copenhagen journey.  Copenhagen station guide.

An IC3 Intercity train at Copenhagen.  More information about the Hamburg-Copenhagen journey.

2nd class seats on a IC3 train.  Larger photo.		1st class seats on an IC3 train.  Larger photo.

Crossing the Little Belt (Lillebælt in Danish) from Jutland (mainland Denmark) to Funen, the island on which Odense is located.

5. Copenhagen to Stockholm by X2000. 

These Swedish 200km/h (125mph) tilting trains link Copenhagen & Stockholm in just a few hours, centre to centre.  They cross from Denmark to Sweden over the Oresund Link, a combined tunnel and bridge.  On the bridge section you seem to be flying just feet above the water. More information about X2000.

Copenhagen to Stockholm by tilting 200km/h X2000, seen at Stockholm Central.  More about X2000 trains.

1st class on an X2000.  Larger photo.		2nd class on an X2000.  Larger photo.

Bistro seating on an X2000 train. Larger photo.		Bistro on an X2000 train. Larger photo.

Crossing the impressive Öresund bridge from Denmark to Sweden...

6. Stockholm to Turku by cruise ferry & train to Helsinki...

There is both a day service and a night service between Stockholm & Helsinki using the Stockholm-Turku Viking Line ferries.

The Viking Glory to Turku at her berth in Stockholm.

Seaside cabin on Viking Glory.  Larger photo.		A beer at sunset at the vista bar on Viking Glory.

Sunset from the Viking Glory.  A beautiful way to travel...

Turku to Helsinki by Intercity train:  This is a double-deck push-pull Intercity train at Helsinki station, with restaurant car, power outlets at all seats & free WiFi. The train would normally go direct to Turku Port station just 100m from the Viking Line terminal, but from 2022 for a couple of years long-term construction work means a bus transfer from Kupittaa (Turku east) to the port.  However, the bus transfer is well-signed and well-organised.

Ekstra (1st) class.  Larger photo.		Eco (2nd) class.  Larger photo.

Journey's end:  The magnificent Helsinki station.

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Option 3, London to Helsinki via Travemünde

This leisurely option runs every day and takes 3 nights outward to Helsinki, just 2 nights inward back to London.  In the outward direction it includes a day at leisure exploring Hamburg, too.  Take a morning Eurostar to Brussels and onward trains to Hamburg, and stay overnight.  After a day exploring Hamburg, transfer by local train to Travemünde on Germany's Baltic coast, then take the daily Finnlines ferry from Travemünde to Helsinki, a 2-night cruise.  This route is shown on the route map above in red between London & Hamburg and in dark blue between Hamburg & Helsinki.

London ► Helsinki

• Day 1, travel from London to Brussels on any evening Eurostar you like.

  The last Eurostar usually leaves London St Pancras at 19:34 arriving Brussels Midi at 22:38, but by all means travel earlier for a pleasant evening in Brussels.  Check times at www.eurostar.com.

• Stay overnight in Brussels.  I recommend the excellent Pullman Hotel Brussels Midi which is an integral part of Brussels Midi station itself, or the inexpensive Ibis Brussels Midi just across the road.

• Day 2, travel from Brussels to Hamburg, leaving Brussels Midi at 08:25 by ICE3, changing at Cologne Hbf onto another ICE arriving Hamburg Hbf at 15:14.  Taking this departure allows plenty of time.

  These comfortable air-conditioned trains have a restaurant or bistro car, power sockets at all seats, the ICE3 has free WiFi.

• Day 2, transfer from Hamburg to Skandinavienkai Terminal, Lübeck like this:

  Take a local train from Hamburg Hbf to Lübeck Hbf, these run every 30 minutes during the day, hourly in the evening, journey time 42-43 minutes.

  At Lübeck Hbf, leave the station and follow the signs to the ZOB bus station 100m away.  Lübeck is a good place for dinner with plenty of bars & restaurants in the old town 5 minutes walk from the station.

  Now take bus 30 from Lübeck ZOB bus station to Travemünde Skandinavienkai Terminal (this is the stop before Travemünde Skandinavienkai - Bahnhof Skandinavienkai).  The bus ride takes 30 minutes, the last bus goes around 21:00.

  You can check journey times from Hamburg to Travemünde Skandinavienkai Terminal at the German Railways website, just use this link to bahn.de as it has the bus times in its database as well as the trains, or you can find bus information at www.xn--sv-lbeck-95a.de.

  Alternatively, take a frequent local train from Hamburg Hbf to Lübeck Hbf, then a frequent local train to Travemünde Skandinavienkai Bahnhof, Lübeck from where the ferry terminal is an 8-minute taxi ride or a 34-minute 2.8 km walk.

  At the terminal, walk into the large modern office block marked HAFENHAUS next to the bus stop, with a green neon Check in sign by the front door.  After check-in, you go downstairs to a large waiting hall, with a bar/cafe open until 10pm, toilets and a large supermarket open until 01:30 selling alcohol and chocolate.

• Day 2-3, sail from Travemünde to Helsinki on the daily Finnlines ferry, see www.finnlines.com or the Direct Ferries website.

  Check-in opens at 20:30, the ship boards from 23:30 onwards, foot passengers are driven onto the car deck in a minibus.  Check-in closes 2h before departure.

  The ship sails at 02:45 (day 3), the exact time varies by day of the week.  It arrives at the Hansa Terminal in Vuosaari harbour just outside Helsinki at 09:15 Mondays-Saturdays, 10:00 Sundays (day 4), a 2-night 1-day crossing from Travemünde.

  The ship may not be as glamorous as some other cruise ferries on the Baltic, but it has all the essentials: Comfortable cabins with private shower & toilet, satellite TV & WiFi (paid for), cafe-restaurant, shop, bar, sundeck, gym and (naturally, being Finnish) a free sauna. A very civilised way to travel.

• Day 4, transfer from Vuosaari to central Helsinki by bus+metro.

  Helsinki's Hansa Ferry Terminal in Vuosaari harbour is 16 km east of central Helsinki, see map of Helsinki showing Vuosaari. 

  Bus 90 runs every 15 minutes from outside Vuosaari Hansa Terminal to Vuosaari metro station for the metro into central Helsinki.  Total journey time 40 minutes.  A Helsinki Zone AB ticket covers both bus and metro from port to city centre, for Helsinki public transport see www.hsl.fi.

Helsinki ► London

• Day 1, transfer from Helsinki to the Hansa Terminal in Vuosaari, some 16 km east of Helsinki by metro+bus, see map showing Vuosaari.

  Take metro line M1 from Helsinki station to Vuosaari metro station, then bus 90 from Vuosaari metro station to its terminus, right outside the Hansa Terminal.  Bus 90 runs every 15 minutes, total metro+bus journey time from Helsinki city centre around 40 minutes.  Buy a Helsinki Zone AB ticket, this covers both metro & bus from city centre to port.  For Helsinki public transport see www.hsl.fi.

• Day 1, sail from Helsinki to Travemünde on the daily Finnlines ferry, see www.finnlines.com or the Direct Ferries website.

  Check-in is 13:30-15:00 Monday-Saturday, 12:00-13:30 Sunday.

  The ship sails at 16:15 Monday-Saturday & 15:00 Sundays, arriving Travemünde 21:45 next day (day 2).

  The ship may not be as glamorous as some other cruise ferries on the Baltic, but it has all the essentials: Comfortable cabins with private shower & toilet, satellite TV & WiFi (paid for), cafe-restaurant, shop, bar, sundeck, gym and (naturally, being Finnish) a free sauna. A very civilised way to travel.

• Day 2, transfer by bus and local train to Hamburg Hbf.  Buses link the ferry terminal (Travemünde Skandinavienkai Terminal) with Lübeck ZOB bus station, it's a short walk to Lübeck station, then local trains run every 30-60 minutes to Hamburg Hbf.

• Stay overnight in Hamburg...

  The Hotel Reichshof Hamburg is the top choice here, just across the road 100m from the station's Kirchenallee exit, with art deco-based design and great reviews.  Other hotels near Hamburg Hbf with good or great reviews include (starting with the cheapest) the Hotel Continental Novum, Hotel Furst Bismarck, Hotel Europaischer Hof, Hotel Atlantic Kempinski.  If you're on a budget, cheap private rooms in the A&O Hotel near Hamburg Hbf can be booked at www.hostelworld.com.

  Tip:  You could consider staying in Lübeck which is closer to Travemünde if the ferry is late, then heading for Hamburg next morning.

• Day 2, travel from Hamburg to London by train...

  For example, the first departure leaves Hamburg Hbf at 06:45, change at Cologne Hbf & Brussels Midi to arrive London St Pancras at 16:57.

  Or you can leave Hamburg at 08:45 arriving London at 19:10.  Or leave Hamburg at 12:50 arriving London at 21:57 (21:27 on Saturdays), see the Hamburg to London timetable on the London to Germany page.

How much does it cost?

• London to Brussels by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £115 one-way, £199 return standard premier (1st class).

• Brussels to Hamburg starts at €29.90 each way in 2nd class, €56.90 each way in 1st class.

• Hamburg to Travemünde by local train & bus costs around €19 each way.

• Travemünde to Helsinki by Finnlines ferry costs between €120 and €155 (£95-£120) each way in a reclining seat depending on the day and season.  However, I recommend a cabin.  The fare including a bed in a 3-bed shared inside cabin is between €200 and €287 each way.  The fare including a bed in a 2-bed outside cabin is between €279 and €413 each way.  Children under 6 go free, and there are reduced fares for children 6 to 12 and youth fares for children 13-17.  See the fares at www.finnlines.com or the Direct Ferries website.

How to buy tickets...

It takes several websites so it's best to try a dry-run on all of them first to check prices and availability before booking for real.  Here's how it's done:

• Step 1, book the Travemünde-Helsinki ferry at www.finnlines.com or the Direct Ferries website.

• Step 2, book the London-Brussels Eurostar at www.eurostar.com.  If returning, book this as a round trip as Eurostar return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways.  You print your own ticket or can show it on your phone.

• Step 3, book Brussels-Hamburg at the German Railways website www.bahn.de.  Booking usually opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket or can show it on your laptop or phone. 

• Step 4, you can also buy a Hamburg-Travemünde ticket at www.bahn.de, or simply buy it at the station when you get to Hamburg.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Brussels by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Brussels in just 2 hours, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Brussels Midi station guide & short cut for changing trains in Brussels.

A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		Standard Premier/Business Premier.  Larger photo.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Brussels to Cologne & Cologne to Hamburg by ICE...

Germany's superb ICEs have a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  In 1st class, bistro orders are taken at your seat.  50 minutes after leaving Brussels the ICE calls at Liège, where you can admire the impressive station designed by celebrity architect Santiago Calatrava.  As you approach Cologne Hbf you'll see the twin towers of Cologne Cathedral on the right, next to the station.  More information about ICE3.  Brussels Midi station guide.  Cologne Hbf station guide.  Hamburg Hbf station guide

An ICE3M to Cologne at Brussels Midi.  More information about ICE.  Advice on changing trains in Brussels.

2nd class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.		1st class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

Proper china, metal cutlery.  I recommend the Erdinger Weissbier!  See current month's menu.		Restaurant car:  This is the small 12-seat restaurant area on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

3. Transfer from Hamburg to Travemünde & sail to Helsinki by Finnlines ferry...

The ship has comfortable cabins with private shower & toilet, satellite TV & WiFi (paid for), cafe-restaurant, shop, bar, sundeck, gym and a free sauna

Finnlines operate the Finnstar, Finnmaid &Finnlady on the Travemünde-Helsinki route.  Photo courtesy of Hubert Bartkowiak.  Photos below courtesy of Chris Russell.

Standard cabin.  Larger photo.		Gym with a view...		Sauna...

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Train travel within Finland

• For onward travel to Tampere & other destinations in Finland, see the Trains from Helsinki page.

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Recommended guidebooks

You should take a good guidebook.  For the independent traveller, I think this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide.  I personally prefer the layout of the Lonely Planet, but others prefer the Rough Guide.  Both guidebooks provide the same excellent level of practical information and historical background.  You won't regret buying one!  My own book, an essential handbook for train travel to Europe based on this website called "The Man in Seat 61", was published in June 2008, and is available from Amazon with shipping worldwide.

Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk...

Or buy direct at the Lonely Planet website, shipping worldwide.

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European Rail Timetable & maps

The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted.  See an extract from the map.  Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or for £9.67 at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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Hotels in Helsinki & Scandinavia

My favourite hotel search site: www.booking.com www.booking.com is my favourite hotel booking site and I generally prefer booking my hotels all in one place here.  You can usually book with free cancellation - this allows you to confirm your accommodation at no risk before train booking opens.  It also means you can hold accommodation while you finalise your itinerary, and alter your plans as they evolve - a feature I use all the time when putting a trip together.  I never book hotels non-refundably.  I have also come to trust their review scores - you won't be disappointed with anything over 8.0. Tip:  It can pay to compare prices across multiple hotel sites:  HotelsCombined.com is a price comparison site which compares hotel prices on Booking.com, Hotels.com, Expedia, Accor, Agoda and many others.  Though if there's not much in it, I prefer keeping all my bookings together in one place at www.booking.com.

Other hotel sites worth trying...

www.tripadvisor.com is the place to find independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.

Backpacker hostels: www.hostelworld.com...

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in Paris and most other European cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & VPN

Always take out travel insurance...

You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer.  It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit.  These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I use an annual policy myself.  Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.

www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection & covers you even if the FCDO advises against non-essential travel.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65, see www.JustTravelCover.com.

You can use www.confused.com to compare prices & policy features across major insurance companies.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

A Curve card saves foreign transaction fees...

Banks often give a poor exchange rate, then charge a currency conversion fee as well.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The balance goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to most European addresses including the UK.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, just like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance onto whichever of your debit or credit cards you choose.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I use a Curve Blue card myself - I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I'm recommending it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card - they'll give you £5 cashback through that link, too.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  VPNs & why you need one explained...

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN means your connection to the internet is encrypted & always secure, even using unsecured WiFi.  In countries such as China where access to Twitter & Facebook is restricted, a VPN gets around these restrictions.  And lastly, you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geographic restrictions which some websites apply - for example one booking site charges a booking fee to non-European visitors but none to European visitors, so if you're not located in Europe you can avoid this fee by browsing with a UK IP address using a VPN.  VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy and I use it myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription, and I get a small commission to help support this site.

Carry an Anker powerbank...

With tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes now often held digitally on your mobile phone, it's vital to keep it charged.  I recommend carrying an Anker powerbank which can recharge your phone several times over if you can't get to a power outlet when you're on the move.  I never travel without one.

 

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