London to Geneva, Lausanne, Zurich or Basel from £78 Thames to the Matterhorn without flying

Lunch in London, bedtime in Switzerland, by train!

Take Eurostar from London to Paris in 2h20, have lunch at the remarkable Train Bleu restaurant at the Gare de Lyon, then take a TGV-Lyria high-speed train from Paris to Geneva in 3h05, Lausanne in 3h39, Basel in 3h03 or Zurich in 4h03 from €29 each way.  It's more civilised, comfortable & environmentally-friendly than any flight, centre to centre with no baggage fees or airport taxes.  Infants go free & there's great scenery on the way.  This page explains the best routes, train times, fares & how to buy tickets.

  London to Basel, Zurich & Lucerne

  London to Geneva

  London to Bern

  London to Lausanne, Montreux, Gstaad

  London to Interlaken

  London to Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Wengen

  London to Brig, Zermatt & the Matterhorn

  London to Chur, Klosters, Davos, St Moritz

  London to Vaduz & Liechtenstein

  London to Switzerland via Brussels - avoids Paris

  London to Switzerland by ferry from Harwich

  London to Switzerland by ferry from Portsmouth

  UK to Switzerland by ferry from Hull or Newcastle

  How to buy train tickets to Switzerland

  Starting from other UK towns & cities

Train travel within Switzerland

  Train travel in Switzerland - a beginner's guide

  Swiss Travel Pass, Half Fare Card

  Map of the Swiss rail network - download map

  The Glacier Express from Zermatt to St Moritz

  The Bernina Express from Chur to Tirano & Milan

  The Jungfraubahn to the Top of Europe

  The Golden Pass - Montreux-Interlaken-Lucerne

  Station guides: Geneva  Lausanne  Basel SBB  Zurich HB

International travel to/from Switzerland

  Trains from other European cities to Switzerland

  Trains from Switzerland to other European cities

Other useful information

  Useful country information: currency, dial code...

  Quick guide to Zurich main station

  Holidays & escorted tours to Switzerland by train

  Hotels in Switzerland

  How to cross Paris by metro or taxi

  Luggage on trains &  Left luggage at stations

  Taking your bike  

  Taking your dog

  Passengers with disabilities  

  General European train travel information

  Travel insurance, mobile data, VPN & other tips

Interactive map:  Click a destination or route

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Useful country information

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London to Basel, Zurich, Lucerne

• Option 1, by Eurostar & TGV-Lyria via Paris.  This is the fastest & cheapest option, with some great scenery.

• Option 2, by Eurostar & ICE via Brussels & Germany.  This is a longer way round, but it avoids crossing Paris if that's important to you, with simple same-station changes in Brussels and either Cologne or Frankfurt.

• Option 3, by Harwich-Hoek van Holland ferry.  This is the ferry alternative, a great option if you live in East Anglia.  Leave London Liverpool Street at 18:45 or Cambridge at 19:47, sleep in a cosy private cabin on the Stena Line superferry from 21:00 to 08:00 with shower, toilet & satellite TV.  Next day, take the metro to Rotterdam and onward trains to Basel or Zurich.

• Option 4, by Portsmouth-Caen ferry, another ferry alternative, ideal if you live on the south coast.  Sail overnight from Portsmouth to Caen with Brittany Ferries sleeping in a cosy private cabin.  Take a morning train to Paris then an afternoon train to Basel & Zurich.

• Option 5, by overnight ferry from Hull to Rotterdam or Newcastle to Amsterdam and onward trains to Basel & Zurich.  Travel direct from the North of England and by-pass London.

Option 1, London to Basel or Zurich via Paris

Take Eurostar from London to Paris with cafe-bar & free WiFi.  Standard Premier & Business Premier fares include breakfast on departures before 11:00 and a meal with wine on later departures.  Change trains & stations in Paris by metro or taxi, then take a TGV-Lyria high-speed train from Paris to Basel in only 3h04 or Zurich in 4h03, also with cafe-bar & free WiFi.  Why not book an earlier Eurostar and have lunch at the fabulous Train Bleu restaurant at the Gare de Lyon?

Timetable outward 2024

Timetable inward 2024

Notes for timetable

For Lucerne, change in Basel.  Hourly trains link Basel SBB & Lucerne in as little as 1h02, check times at www.raileurope.com or www.thetrainline.com.

How to read these timetables:  You read downwards, each column is a journey you can take.  You change trains at each grey bar.

Times may vary, check times & buy tickets at www.raileurope.com, www.thetrainline.com or www.sncf-connect.com.

Shaded = time-effective journey with overnight stop in Paris. By all means choose an earlier evening Eurostar outward or a later morning one inwards than the one shown.  Or a later morning TGV going south, or an earlier evening TGV going north.  Your call!  See  suggested hotels in Paris near the Gare du Nord or Gare de Lyon

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £168 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Basel or Zurich by TGV-Lyria starts at €29 each way in 2nd class or €51 in 1st class.

• Basel to Lucerne costs around €29.60 each way, regular price.

• Eurostar & TGV-Lyria fares are dynamic & vary like air fares, so book ahead.  On Eurostar & TGV-Lyria, children under 4 go free, children under 12 travel at a child rate.  On Swiss domestic trains, children under 6 go free, children under 16 at half price.

How to buy tickets

• To buy tickets, see the instructions below

What are the trains like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Standard Premier & Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide.  How to cross Paris by metro or taxi.

2. Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria

All TGV-Lyria trains are now 320 km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex like the one shown below.  TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes:  Standard class (2nd), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with hot meal & drinks included in the fare).  There's a cafe-bar car selling drinks & snacks.  There are power points for mobiles & laptops at all seats in all classes.  Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways.  More about TGV-Lyria.  Paris Gare de Lyon station guide.  Basel SBB station guide.  Zurich HB station guide.

What's the scenery like?

On the route from Paris to Basel & Zurich, the train soon leaves the historic Gare de Lyon behind and accelerates through the Parisian suburbs onto the high-speed line at up to 300km/h (186mph).  The train slows down to call at Dijon, the major city of the Burgundy region, with views over the city on the approach.  The train continues through the rolling hills of rural France, past pretty villages with picturesque churches onto the new Rhone-Rhine high-speed line where the train reaches 320km/h (199mph).  Calling at Mulhouse, the train continues on classic lines to enter Switzerland at Basel.

How to buy tickets

It's easy to buy train tickets to Switzerland, here I'll explain the options.

Option 1, buy at Raileurope.com

	For hotels... www.booking.com allows you to book your accommodation before train bookings open, at no risk with free cancellation. See my personal hotel recommendations in Zurich & in the St Moritz area.

• Go to www.raileurope.com

  Raileurope.com connects to the British, French & Swiss ticketing systems, so you can buy all your tickets from the UK to Switzerland in one place, in plain English, in €, £ or $.  There's a small booking fee.  You print your own tickets or can show them on your phone.  Who are Raileurope.com?

• When does booking open?

  Eurostar opens 6 months ahead, sometimes up to 11 months.  Paris-Switzerland TGV-Lyrias usually open 4 months ahead, sometimes longer over the summer.  I'd wait until both Eurostar & TGV-Lyria are open for sale, so you can confirm times & prices before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket.

  There's an annual timetable change on the second Saturday in December, bookings for dates after this (including Christmas & New Year) usually open in mid-October.

  More information about when train bookings open.  You can reserve accommodation before booking your trains risk-free if you use www.booking.com with free cancellation.

• Fares vary like air fares, so book ahead

  Fares for Eurostar & TGV-Lyria are dynamic like air fares, so book early and search for the cheapest departures.  The cheapest tickets mean no refunds, no changes.

• How to book

  You can travel from London to most Swiss destinations in a single day, you can book that as one seamless transaction as shown in method 1.

  Method 2 gives you more control and can cope with more complex journeys, including ones involving an overnight stop in Paris on the way out or the way back, or circular journeys.

  Incidentally, there are no through tickets from London to Switzerland, you'll always get a Eurostar ticket to Paris, a TGV-Lyria ticket from Paris to Switzerland and separate onward Swiss tickets.  But connections across Paris are protected by the Railteam/HOTNAT and AJC.

• Method 1

  1.  Set up an enquiry from London to your Swiss destination, number of passengers, date of travel, set a suitable morning or early afternoon departure time.

  2.  If you're returning, also in a single day, enter your return date with suitable morning or early afternoon departure time.

  On French & Swiss trains a return is two one ways.  But on Eurostar return fares are significantly cheaper than two one ways so a round trip that includes Eurostar should be booked as a return.

  3.  Now the science bit.  Click More options and enter Paris Nord as a via station with stopover duration set to 1 hour (to guarantee a minimum acceptable 1 hour between trains in Paris) or 2 hours (a more robust connection, recommended) or 3 hours (for lunch in Paris at the famous Train Bleu restaurant).  If you don't do this, the system can offer risky cross-Paris connections as tight as 42 minutes.  Advice on crossing Paris.

  4.  Run the enquiry.  As a general rule, look in the search results for journeys with fewest changes, ideally 1.  Add to basket.

  5.  Check out, paying for all tickets as one transaction.

• Method 2

  First, read the relevant destination section on this page and find a train service that suits you, out & back.  By all means go out one way and back another, or go outward direct, back with an overnight stop in Paris, whatever.  Note down each individual train you want to book, on what specific date.  Then go to www.raileurope.com

  Step 1, book your chosen train from Paris to your Swiss destination, one-way, and add to basket.

  Step 2, if you're returning, book your chosen train from your Swiss destination to Paris, one-way, and add to basket.  Confirm times.

  Step 3, book the Eurostar from London to Paris & back as a round trip and add to basket.

  Eurostar return fares are significantly cheaper than two one ways, so a round trip on Eurostar should always be booked as a return. 

  Use the suggested Eurostar times on this page as a guide, but by all means book an earlier Eurostar than the one I suggest going out, or a later one coming back, if you'd prefer a more robust connection (as I do), if the fare is cheaper, or if you want to have lunch in Paris (also me!).

  Just remember that with this method, it's up to you to make sure there's at least 60 minutes between trains in Paris southbound, 90 minutes northbound (to include the Eurostar check-in), ideally 2 hours.  So engage brain!  Advice on crossing Paris.

  Check out, paying for all tickets as one transaction.

• Travelling from the UK regions

  Raileurope can book journeys starting from any British station, not just London.  It allows about an hour for Eurostar check-in.

  However, consider booking from London to Switzerland first, then buying a separate ticket from your local station to London.  There are 2 reasons to do this:  First, you might want a more robust connection between trains in London, say 2 hours.  Second, Raileurope doesn't sell the special tickets to London International CIV which can sometimes save you money in the weekday morning peak, learn about these here.

• Child fares & infants

  Children under 12 travel at the child rate on Eurostar & TGV-Lyria.  Children under 16 qualify for child rate on Swiss trains.

  Infants under 4 travel free on Eurostar & TGV-Lyria, no need to buy them a ticket, just bring them along.  But they don't get their own seat.

  Tip:  To give an infant their own seat on TGV-Lyria, buy a Baby Pass for €15.  Simply add the infant to your booking with their correct age.

• Choose an upper deck seat on TGV-Lyria

  All TGV-Lyria trains are double-deck TGV Duplex.  www.raileurope.com lets you choose upper or lower deck, I recommend an upstairs seat for the best views.

• After booking, you can view & change your Eurostar seats

  After you have booked trains between London & Switzerland using www.raileurope.com, you can go to www.eurostar.com and use the Manage booking feature to view and change your Eurostar seats, see instructions & tips for choosing seats here.

  You can also download the Eurostar app and load your Eurostar booking into it using the 6-character booking reference.  You can then manage your booking in the app should you need to change it.

• Train seat numbering plans

  TGV-Lyria seat map.   For other seat maps see the train seating plan page.

Option 2, buy at Thetrainline.com

• You can also buy tickets from London to Switzerland at www.thetrainline.com.

  Like Raileurope, it connects to the Eurostar, French & Swiss ticketing systems so you can easily book all your tickets in one place, in plain English, in €, £ or $ with overseas credit cards no problem.  Who are Thetrainline.com?

  Most of the Raileurope booking tips above also apply to booking on www.thetrainline.com.

• Thetrainline.com can do several things Raileurope.com can't, such as sell tickets with a Carte Avantage discount if you have such a card.  It also lets you choose your seat from a seat map on TGV-Lyria if you book 1st class, a key benefit.

  However, Raileurope.com has a killer advantage, you can specify a via station with a stopover duration.  This is so useful for cross-Paris journeys where you want to allow sufficient time in Paris.

  When using Thetrainline.com you can specify a via, but not the duration, so I recommend using method 2.

  Apart from these differences you should find prices are the same on both sites, it really comes down to personal preference.

Option 3, buy at eurostar.com + sncf-connect.com + sbb.ch

• You can of course book each train separately direct with the relevant operator, this is obviously more work and prices should be the same, but you pay no booking fee.  If you want to book this way, do a dry run on each site to confirm times, prices & availability before booking for real.

• Step 1, book the TGV-Lyria from Paris to Geneva, Lausanne, Basel or Zurich at the French Railways website www.sncf-connect.com.

  When booking 1st class on a TGV-Lyria you can choose your seat from a seat map.  You print your own ticket or can show it on your phone.

  www.sncf-connect.com can easily book the TGV-Lyria from Paris to Geneva, Lausanne, Basel or Zurich, it will also book through tickets to many Swiss destinations involving one change of train, such as Interlaken or Brig.  But it can struggle with destinations requiring more changes, for example Grindelwald, Zermatt or St Moritz.  If you have any difficulty booking to your final Swiss destination, book the direct TGV from Paris to Lausanne, Bern, Basel or Zurich.

• Step 2, book a connecting Eurostar from London to Paris (and back, if returning) at www.eurostar.com.

  Use the Eurostar times on this page as a guide, but feel free to choose an earlier Eurostar from London or a later Eurostar back from Paris if these have cheaper seats available or if you'd like to stop off in Paris.  You can print out your own ticket or can show it on your phone, and there's no booking fee.

  Or you can stay with www.sncf-connect.com to book the Eurostar, also with no booking fee.  In fact, www.sncf-connect.com can book you from London to Switzerland as one seamless transaction, just make sure that the time between trains in Paris is at least 60 minutes, if it's less than this, or if you want longer than an hour, you'll have to split the booking.  You get separate tickets either side of Pars anyway.

• Step 3, buy onward domestic Swiss tickets at www.sbb.ch.

  At www.sbb.ch you'll sometimes find cheap advance-purchase Supersaver fares which are valid on that specific train only, no changes to travel plans, no refunds, but can save up to 70% off the regular fare.  But read what I say about Supersaver fares, especially if connecting off a train arriving from Paris.  A Saver Day Pass or regular flexible ticket is fine as these are good for any train that day.

Or use an Interrail pass

• Pass or point to point?

  Let's be clear, a pass will not save money over the cheapest point-to-point advance-purchase fares you might see if you book a few months ahead.  But when point-to-point fares are expensive (for example, at short notice) OR you want flexibility, for example the ability to change your mind, re-route or reschedule as necessary, a pass might be what you need.

  If flexibility is what you want, buy the pass.  If it's about saving money, you'll have to check point-to-point prices and do the maths.

  It's worth doing the maths if you are under 28, if you have kids (kids get a free pass when accompanying an adult but still need to pay reservation fees) or if you live a long way from London (as a pass covers you from your home station to London). Passes are available in 1st & 2nd class.

• How to use a pass for a trip to Switzerland

  Step 1, buy a 4-days in 1-month Interrail pass from www.myinterrail.co.uk (if you live in the UK) or www.interrail.eu (any country) for €258 adult, €194 youth or €232 senior.  You load the pass into the Railplanner app on your phone.  See pass prices on the Interrail page.

  A 4-day pass is more than enough to get from anywhere in mainland Britain to anywhere in Switzerland & back again.  In fact, it's enough to get from London & Southeast to anywhere in Switzerland & back, with 2 days of unlimited train travel in Switzerland while you're there.

  A 4-day pass gives you unlimited train travel on any 4 dates you choose in an overall 1 month period.  The first travel day can be any date you select in the 11 months after buying the pass, the overall 1 month period starts from that date.  Learn about how Interrail passes work here.

  Step 2, you need a Eurostar passholder reservation from London to Paris & back, €30 each way.  See prices & how to make Eurostar passholder reservations.  Tip:  Eurostar passholder availability is limited, so check availability before buying a pass.

  Step 3, you need a passholder reservation on the Paris-Switzerland TGV-Lyria, €29 each way, see cost of reservations & how to make them.

  Step 4, Swiss trains can be used freely with a pass, no reservations needed except for tourist trains such as the Glacier or Bernina Express.

Or ask Byway to arrange it for you

• Byway (Byway.travel) is a new UK-based eco-holiday firm with a 5-star TrustPilot rating.  If you're nervous about booking train travel yourself, they'll book a London-Switzerland journey for you as a package, including overnight hotels, starting from any British station you like.

  To see pre-configured packages from London to Chur, Grindelwald, Tirano, use the journey planner on their website.

  Tip:  First book a one-way outward journey to your destination city on your outward date.  Then change the direction of the arrow and book an inward journey on your return date.  The journey back to the UK can be from a different location if you like, for example if you plan to travel around a bit before your return to the UK.

  Alternatively they can build a trip to your requirements, email them or use the contact form.  Please say you heard about them from Seat 61.

  Byway includes package protection, a 100% Covid refund guarantee, free disruption & re-planning and on-demand WhatsApp support while you're away.

Or ask Railbookers to arrange for you

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a tour or holiday for you as a package, including rail travel, hotels & transfers.  On their website you'll find a range of suggested tours & holidays which can be varied or customised to your own requirements.  And as you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens to one part of the itinerary such as a strike or delay.

• Their two most popular Swiss holidays are Classic Bernina Express & Glacier Express which includes train travel from the UK to Switzerland so no flying necessary, and Switzerland's Lakes & Mountains which they can customise for you with train travel between the UK & Switzerland rather than flights, just call them & ask.

    UK 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk

    US 1-888-829-4775, see website

    Canada 1-855-882-2910, see website

    Australia 1300 971 526, see website

    New Zealand 0800 000 554 or see website

Or ask Tailor Made Rail to arrange it

• Tailor Made Rail also offers packages from the UK to Switzerland by train which can be customised your own requirements, one-way or round trip, with any stopovers you want.  Or they can organise a trip entirely based on your own requirements, indeed they welcome complex itineraries!  As it's a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens on one part of the trip, for example, a national strike.  They're TTA-protected - like ATOL, but not only for agencies that sell air travel.

• Call their dedicated seat61 phone line 020 3778 1461 and quote seat 61 when booking.  From outside the UK call +44 20 3778 1461.  Lines open 09:00-17:30 Monday-Friday.  Their website is www.tailormaderail.com/destinations/switzerland.

Escorted tours to Switzerland by train

• If you'd prefer to go to Switzerland on an escorted tour with a convivial group of travellers rather than travelling solo, here are the two UK companies which arrange escorted tours by train from the UK to destinations all over Europe on various dates through the year.  Both companies are part of the same group.

    Rail Discoveries, www.raildiscoveries.com, 01904 730 727

    Great Rail Journeys, www.greatrail.com, 01904 527 120

How to buy tickets by phone

• It's better to book online to avoid additional phone booking fees and so you can see for yourself which departures are cheapest for each stage of the journey.  Most ticketing agencies only work office hours on weekdays, but online booking is possible 24/7.  However, if you want to book by phone, see my list of UK ticketing agencies with phone numbers & opening hours.

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• Option 1, by Eurostar & TGV-Lyria via Paris.  This is the fastest & cheapest option with some great scenery on the way.

• Option 2, by Eurostar & TGV via Lille & Lyon.  This takes a bit longer and usually costs a little more, but it avoids having the cross Paris if that's important to you.  There's an easy same-station change in Lille and another in Lyon.  Ideal if you've heavy luggage or mobility problems.

• Option 3, by Harwich-Hoek van Holland ferry. The ferry alternative, a great option if you live in East Anglia.  It may also have affordable fares even at short notice when Eurostar is expensive.  Leave London Liverpool Street at 18:45 or Cambridge at 19:47, sleep in a cosy private cabin on the Stena Line superferry from 21:00 to 08:00 with shower, toilet & satellite TV.  Next day, take the metro to Rotterdam and onward trains to Switzerland.

• Option 4, by Portsmouth-Caen ferry.  Another ferry alternative, ideal if you live on the south coast.  Sail overnight from Portsmouth to Caen with Brittany Ferries, sleeping in a cosy private cabin.  Take a morning train to Paris then an afternoon train to Geneva.

• Option 5, by overnight ferry from Hull to Rotterdam or Newcastle to Amsterdam and onward trains to Basel then Geneva.  Travel direct from the North of England and by-pass London.

Option 1, London to Geneva via Paris

Take Eurostar from London to Paris with cafe-bar & free WiFi.  Change trains & stations in Paris by metro or taxi, then take a TGV-Lyria high-speed train from Paris to Geneva, also with cafe-bar and free WiFi.

For the first part of the journey, the Paris-Geneva TGVs use the TGV-Sud Est line at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  They then slow right down over classic lines through beautiful French mountain scenery for the rest of the run to Geneva, past pretty French villages, mountain forests, dramatic viaducts and scenic lakes, see photos of the journey below.  Sit back with a glass of wine and enjoy the scenic stress-free alternative to flying to Geneva.  Why not book an earlier Eurostar and have lunch at the fabulous Train Bleu restaurant at the Gare de Lyon?

Timetable outward 2024

Timetable inward 2024

Notes for timetable

How to read these timetables:  You read downwards, each column is a journey you can take.  You change trains at each grey bar.

Times may vary, check times & buy tickets at www.raileurope.com, www.thetrainline.com or www.sncf-connect.com.

Shaded = time-effective journey with overnight hotel stop in Paris. Outwards from London, by all means choose an earlier evening Eurostar or a later morning TGV to Geneva.  Inwards to London, by all means choose an earlier TGV to Paris or later morning Eurostar to London.  Your call!  See suggested hotels in Paris near the Gare du Nord or Gare de Lyon

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £168 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Geneva by TGV-Lyria starts at €29 each way in 2nd class or €51 in 1st class.

• Eurostar & TGV-Lyria fares are dynamic & vary like air fares, so book ahead.  On Eurostar & TGV-Lyria, children under 4 go free, children under 12 travel at a child rate.  On Swiss domestic trains, children under 6 go free, children under 16 at half price.

How to buy tickets

• To buy tickets, see the instructions above.

What are the trains like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More about Eurostar & check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide.  How to cross Paris by metro or taxi.

2.  Paris to Geneva by TGV-Lyria duplex

All TGV-Lyria trains are now 320km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex like the one shown below.  TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes:  Standard class (2nd), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with hot meal & drinks included in the fare).  There's a cafe-bar car selling drinks & snacks.  There are power points for mobiles & laptops at all seats in all classes.  Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways.  More about TGV-Lyria.  Paris Gare de Lyon station guide.  Geneva station guide.

What's the scenery like?

In 2010 they shaved another 15-20 minutes off the Paris-Geneva journey time by rebuilding the amazing 65km single-track Haut-Bugey line from Bourg en Bresse to Bellegarde.  This section of line dates from 1877-1882, but local traffic had declined and the line was partially closed in 1990.  However, a joint French-Swiss project gave it a new lease of life, rebuilt to mainline standards and reborn as a key link in the TGV network.  It shortens the distance between Paris & Geneva by 47km, trains previously had to detour south via Culoz.  The wonderful Haut-Bugey line takes Paris-Geneva TGVs at low speed through some great mountainous terrain, some of it inaccessible by road, through some 11 tunnels and over 80 bridges & viaducts including the spectacular Cize-Bolozon viaduct over the Ain gorge, a structure partly blown up by the French resistance in 1944 (it took 5 years to repair the damage after the war).  Relax and enjoy the journey!

The TGV leaves the high-speed line and slows right down to join the Haut-Bugey Line.  Just after a short tunnel the train crosses the spectacular Cize-Bolozon viaduct over the Ain gorge (above), the major structure on the Haut-Bugey line.  The best view from the viaduct is on the left hand side of the train, pictured above.

More scenery as the TGV from Paris to Geneva heads through the hills along the river valley between Bourg en Bresse & Bellegarde.  The best views are on the right hand side, so keep a good lookout, although you can't pick sides when booking.

Nearing Switzerland, the train passes a lake, probably the Lac de Nantua.

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Option 2, London to Geneva via Lille & Lyon

This takes a bit longer than going via Paris, and usually costs a bit more.  But it avoids crossing Paris, with two easy same-station changes, at Lille and Lyon.  If you have heavy luggage, kids or mobility problems, it's a good option.

Timetable outward 2024

Notes for timetable

How to read these timetables:  You read downwards, each column is a journey you can take.  You change trains at each grey bar.

Times may vary, check for your dates using www.raileurope.com, www.thetrainline.com or www.sncf-connect.com.  Don't buy Eurostar tickets until you have confirmed onward train times.  Eurostar doesn't run on 25 December.

How much does it cost?

• London to Lille by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way, £78 return standard class or £97 one-way, £168 return in standard premier (1st class).

• Lille to Lyon by TGV starts at €20 each way.

• Lyon to Geneva by TER costs €29.60 each way, fixed price, no reservation necessary or possible.

• Eurostar & TGV fares are dynamic & vary like air fares, so book ahead.  On Eurostar & TGV, children under 4 go free, children under 12 travel at a child rate.  On Swiss domestic trains, children under 6 go free, children under 16 at half price.

How to buy tickets

• Buy tickets online at www.raileurope.com, www.thetrainline.com or www.sncf-connect.com.

• Booking for the Lille-Lyon TGV opens up to 4 months ahead, less than this if the mid-December timetable change intervenes.

• I recommend booking London to Lyon first (and back, if returning), adding that you your basket, then book a Lyon to Geneva ticket separately, add to your basket and check out.  It can help to add Lille Europe as a via station (if using www.raileurope.com, click More options).

  Tip:  If it still insists on routing you via Paris, break the journey down like this:  Book from Lille to Lyon on its own, looking for the direct TGV and add to basket, then book London to Lille and add to basket, then book Lyon to Geneva, add to basket and check out.

What are the trains like?

1. London to Lille by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Lille in 1h22, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Lille Europe station guide & tips on changing trains.

2. Lille to Lyon by TGV

TGV or Train á Grande Vitesse is French Railways high-speed train, with 1st & 2nd class and a cafe-bar.  They come in various types, some single-deck, some double-deck TGV Duplex, you could get either on cross-France routes from Lille.  Most have power sockets at seats, most now have free WiFi.  The photos below show a single-deck TGV with the Christian Lacroix designer interior.  The direct TGVs from Lille by-pass Paris on a high-speed avoiding line via Charles de Gaulle Airport station.  More information about TGV.  Lyon Part Dieu station guide.

3. Lyon to Geneva by TER regional train

These run every couple of hours, no reservation necessary or possible, you sit where you like.  There's some nice scenery between Lyon & Geneva, too.  More information about Lyon to Geneva TER trains.  Lyon Part Dieu station guide.  Geneva station guide.

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London to Bern

Taking the train is the stress-free and environmentally-sound way from London to Bern.  Eurostar links London & Paris in 2h20 from £52 one-way or £78 return.  High speed TGV-Lyria trains link Paris with Basel in 3h04 from €29 each way - change in Basel for a Swiss intercity train to Bern taking 58 minutes.  TGV-Lyrias have standard class (2nd class), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with flexible fares and at-seat meal & wine included).  There's a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  You can find a seat numbering plan & other useful information at www.tgv-lyria.com.  Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways.  What's it like on board a TGV-Lyria?.  For the ferry alternative, see here.

Timetable outward 2024

How to read these timetables:  You read downwards, each column is a journey you can take.  You change trains at each grey bar.

Shaded = time-effective journey with overnight hotel stop in Paris. By all means choose an earlier evening Eurostar outward or a later morning one inwards.  Or a later morning TGV going south, or an earlier evening TGV going north.  Your call!  See suggested hotels in Paris near the Gare du Nord or Gare de Lyon

Why not catch an earlier Eurostar and have lunch at the famous Train Bleu restaurant on the main concourse?  It's an experience in itself.

Times may vary, check times & buy tickets at www.raileurope.com, www.thetrainline.com or www.sncf-connect.com.

Timetable inward 2024

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £168 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Basel by TGV-Lyria starts at €29 each way in 2nd class or €51 in 1st class.

• Basel to Bern costs CHF 40 (£30) each way 2nd class.

• Eurostar & TGV-Lyria fares are dynamic & vary like air fares, so book ahead.  On Eurostar & TGV-Lyria, children under 4 go free, children under 12 travel at a child rate.  On Swiss domestic trains, children under 6 go free, children under 16 at half price.

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Taking the train is an enjoyable and environmentally-friendly way to get from London to Lausanne & western Switzerland.  Take Eurostar from London to Paris in just 2h20 from £52, then a high-speed TGV-Lyria train from Paris to Lausanne in only 3h40 from €29 each way.  City centre to city centre, no baggage fees, no extra to pay to get to and from airports, and infants under 4 go free.

The TGV-Lyria travels at up to 300 km/h (186 mph) along the TGV Sud-Est high-speed line, then branches off at lower speed through pretty hills around Dijon and across rural France into Switzerland.  Frequent Swiss trains, running like clockwork, link Lausanne with Vevey, Montreux, Aigle, Martigny, & Sion.  Change at Montreux for the scenic Golden Pass route to Gstaad.  Take a bottle of wine, put your feet up and enjoy the ride.  On TGV-Lyria, business première fares include a complimentary meal and wine served at your seat.  What's it like on a TGV-Lyria train?.  For the ferry alternative, see here.

Timetable outward 2024

How to read these timetables  You read downwards, each column is a journey option you can take.  You change trains at each grey bar.

Shaded = time-effective journey with overnight hotel stop in Paris. By all means choose an earlier evening Eurostar outward or a later morning one inwards.  Or a later morning TGV going south, or an earlier evening TGV going north.  Your call!  See suggested hotels in Paris near the Gare du Nord or Gare de Lyon

Why not book an earlier Eurostar and have lunch in Paris at the celebrated Train Bleu restaurant inside the Gare de Lyon?

Times may vary, check times & buy tickets at www.raileurope.com, www.thetrainline.com or www.sncf-connect.com.

The 14:18, 16:18 Paris-Lausanne TGVs & 09:45, 13:45 Lausanne-Paris TGVs run via Geneva, see the scenery photos in the Paris-Geneva section.

Timetable inward 2024

Connections to Vevey, Montreux, Sion, Martigny

Lausanne is the ideal entry point for western Switzerland.  Frequent (at least half-hourly) trains link Lausanne station with Vevey, Montreux (19 minutes), Sion, & Martigny.  Change at Montreux for the amazingly scenic narrow-gauge Golden Pass route to Gstaad & Zweisimmen.  The Golden Pass route from Montreux to Gstaad climbs spectacularly up the mountain out of Montreux, passing over the top to the valley behind.  You can check train times and fares from Lausanne to anywhere in Switzerland at www.sbb.ch.

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £168 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Lausanne by TGV-Lyria starts at €29 each way in 2nd class or €51 in 1st class.

• Lausanne to Montreux CHF 6.30 (£5) each way 2nd class;  Lausanne to Gstaad CHF 33 (£25) each way 2nd class, CHF 58 (£44) 1st class.

• Eurostar & TGV-Lyria fares are dynamic & vary like air fares, so book ahead.  On Eurostar & TGV-Lyria, children under 4 go free, children under 12 travel at a child rate.  On Swiss domestic trains, children under 6 go free, children under 16 at half price.

How to buy tickets

• To buy tickets, see the instructions above.

Above, the train runs along the shores of Lake Léman between Lausanne & Montreux.  Taken from the train.

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It's easy to travel by train from the UK to Interlaken and the Jungfrau region.  Take Eurostar to Paris in only 2h20 from £52 one-way or £78 return, then a 300 km/h (186 mph) TGV-Lyria from Paris to Basel in just 3h05 from €29 each way.  Regular Swiss InterCity trains run from Basel through the mountains and along the lake shore to Interlaken Ost in 1h58.  No airports, no flights, the train ride is a chance to chill out.

TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes, standard class (2nd class), standard première (1st class) & business première (1st class with a meal & wine served at your seat included in the fare).  There's a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Take a bottle of wine, put your feet up and enjoy the ride!  TGV-Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss railways.  For the ferry alternatives, see here.

Interlaken is at the centre of the Jungfrau region, with narrow-gauge local trains into the mountains to ski resorts such as Grindelwald at the foot of the Eiger, and Lauterbrunnen at the foot of the Jungfrau.  The famous Jungfraubahn rack railway climbs the Jungfrau to the Top of Europe from both Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen.

How to read these timetables  You read downwards, each column is a journey option you can take.  You change trains at each grey bar.

Shaded = time-effective journey with overnight hotel stop in Paris. By all means choose an earlier evening Eurostar outward or a later morning one inwards.  Or a later morning TGV going south, or an earlier evening TGV going north.  Your call!  See suggested hotels in Paris near the Gare du Nord or Gare de Lyon

Lauterbrunnen & Wengen::  Half-hourly local trains link Interlaken Ost with Lauterbrunnen, journey time 20 minutes.  Change at Lauterbrunnen for Wengen, total journey time from Interlaken to Wengen is 46 minutes.  You can check times and fares using the journey planner at www.sbb.ch.   By train up the Jungfrau.

Why not book an earlier Eurostar and have lunch in Paris at the celebrated Train Bleu restaurant inside the Gare de Lyon?

Times may vary, check times & buy tickets at www.raileurope.com, www.thetrainline.com or www.sncf-connect.com.

Timetable inward 2024

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £168 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Basel by TGV-Lyria starts at €29 each way in 2nd class or €51 in 1st class.

• Basel to Interlaken is CHF 60 (£45) each way in 2nd class.  Basel to Grindelwald CHF 71 (£54) each way in 2nd class. 

• Eurostar & TGV-Lyria fares are dynamic & vary like air fares, so book ahead.  On Eurostar & TGV-Lyria, children under 4 go free, children under 12 travel at a child rate.  On Swiss domestic trains, children under 6 go free, children under 16 at half price.

How to buy tickets

• To buy tickets, see the instructions above.

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Zermatt nestles at the foot of the imposing Matterhorn, at the head of the Mattertal valley.  It's a car-free resort which can only be reached by train.  Electric 'johnny cabs' act as taxis.

To reach Zermatt, hop on a Eurostar to Paris then take a TGV-Lyria high-speed train from Paris to Lausanne.  Hourly Swiss trains link Lausanne with Visp, where you board the little narrow-gauge branch line up the valley to Zermatt.  For the ferry alternatives via Harwich, Hull or Newcastle, see here.

For the best views of the scenery on the local line southbound from Brig or Visp to Zermatt, find a seat on the left-hand side of the train.  This narrow gauge train ascends the Mattertal Valley via a series of 'steps'.  The train uses conventional adhesion on the level sections and rack-and-pinion to climb the steep sections.

How to read these timetables  You read downwards, each column is a journey option you can take.  You change trains at each grey bar.

Shaded = time-effective journey with overnight hotel stop in Paris. By all means choose an earlier evening Eurostar outward or a later morning one inwards.  Or a later morning TGV going south, or an earlier evening TGV going north.  Your call!  See suggested hotels in Paris near the Gare du Nord or Gare de Lyon

Why not book an earlier Eurostar and have lunch in Paris at the celebrated Train Bleu restaurant inside the Gare de Lyon?

Times may vary, check times & buy tickets at www.raileurope.com, www.thetrainline.com or www.sncf-connect.com.

Timetable inward 2024

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £168 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Lausanne by TGV-Lyria starts at €29 each way in 2nd class or €51 in 1st class.

• Lausanne to Zermatt costs CHF 80 (£60) one-way, CHF 160 (£120) return.

• Eurostar & TGV-Lyria fares are dynamic & vary like air fares, so book ahead.  On Eurostar & TGV-Lyria, children under 4 go free, children under 12 travel at a child rate.  On Swiss domestic trains, children under 6 go free, children under 16 at half price.

How to buy tickets

• To buy tickets, see the instructions above.

Let Railbookers arrange it for you

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a tour or holiday for you as a package, including rail travel, hotels & transfers.  On their website you'll find a range of suggested tours & holidays which can be varied or customised to your own requirements.  And as you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens to one part of the itinerary such as a strike or delay.

    UK 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk

    US 1-888-829-4775, see website

    Canada 1-855-882-2910, see website

    Australia 1300 971 526, see website

    New Zealand 0800 000 554 or see website

Hotels in Zermatt

• The Monte Rosa Hotel is the most famous & historic place to stay if your budget allows.  This was the first hotel in Zermatt and it was from here that Edward Whymper set out on the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865.  It's right in the centre of the town only 400m from the station, with a superb 9/10 review score.

• Otherwise (assuming your budget won't stretch to the other top-notch place directly opposite the Monte Rosa, the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, opened in 1879), a much more affordable and down-to-earth choice close to the station in Zermatt's main street is the clean & comfortable Hotel Garni Testa Grigia.  Or just search booking.com, anything with a review score over 8.0 will be great.

Zermatt's famous Monte Rosa Hotel with plaque dedicated to Edward Whymper, see larger photo.

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The area around St Moritz, Davos and Klosters has attracted visitors from the UK both for winter sports and summer holidays for over a century - and the journey by narrow-gauge train from Chur to St Moritz is one of the most scenic train rides in Switzerland, or indeed the world.  To get there by train from the UK, simply use any of the London-Zurich options shown in the London to Zurich section above, then use www.sbb.ch to find connections to St Moritz.  Two good options are shown below.  For the ferry alternative, see here.

London ► Chur, Davos, Klosters, St Moritz, every day

• Step 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 07:01 Mondays-Fridays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 10:19, at 06:31 on Saturdays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 09:48, or at 08:01 on Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 11:20.

  There's also an 08:01 Eurostar on Mondays-Saturdays, but I'd play safe and book an earlier Eurostar when one is available.

  Cross Paris by taxi or metro to the Gare de Lyon, it's just 2 stops on RER line D.

• Step 2, travel from Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria, leaving Paris Gare de Lyon at 12:22 & arriving in Zurich HB at 15:26.

  The double-deck TGV-Lyria travels at up to 320 km/h (199 mph) and has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

• Step 3 for St Moritz, leave Zurich HB at 16:38 by InterCity & change at Chur onto the narrow-gauge Rhätische Bahn to St Moritz, arriving 20:00.

• Step 3 for Klosters or Davos, leave Zurich HB at 16:38 by InterCity train and change at Landquart onto the narrow-gauge Rhätische Bahn to Klosters Platz arriving 18:28 and Davos Platz arriving 19:00.

London ► Chur, Davos, Klosters, St Moritz, every day

• Step 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 11:31, arriving Paris Gare du Nord 14:48.

  Cross Paris by taxi or metro to the Gare de Lyon, 2 stops on RER line D or 25 minutes by taxi.

• Step 2, travel from Paris to Basel by TGV-Lyria, leaving Paris Gare de Lyon at 16:22 and arriving Zurich HB at 20:26. 

  The double-deck TGV-Lyria travels at up to 320 km/h (199 mph) and has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

• Step 3 for St Moritz, leave Zurich HB at 20:38, change at Landquart, Klosters Platz & Sagliains (or at Chur & Samedan Fridays & Saturdays) arriving St Moritz at 23:58.  This is the last connection of the day, check times at www.sbb.ch.

• Step 3 for Klosters or Davos, leave Zurich HB at 20:38 by InterCity train and change at Landquart onto the narrow-gauge Rhätische Bahn to Klosters Platz arriving 22:30 and Davos Platz arriving 23:01.  There is a later connection from Zurich at 21:38 if the TGV from Paris is delayed.

St Moritz, Klosters, Davos, Chur ► London, every day

• Step 1 from St Moritz, travel from St Moritz to Zurich by train, leaving St Moritz at 07:02 by narrow gauge Rhätische Bahn train, with a simple change at Chur onto the standard gauge Swiss Federal Railways InterCity train to Zurich, arriving Zurich HB at 10:22.

• Step 1 from Davos or Klosters, leave Davos Platz at 08:01 or Klosters Platz at 08:30, changing from the narrow gauge Rhätische Bahn to the Swiss Federal Railways InterCity train at Landquart, arriving Zurich HB at 10:22.

• Step 2, travel from Zurich to Paris by TGV-Lyria, leaving Zurich HB at 11:34 and arriving Paris Gare de Lyon at 15:38.

  The double-deck TGV-Lyria travels at up to 320 km/h (199 mph) and has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Cross Paris by taxi or metro to the Gare du Nord.

• Step 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 18:12 daily except Saturdays arriving London St Pancras at 19:30.  On Saturdays, leave Paris Gare du Nord at 19:12 arriving London St Pancras at 20:30.

St Moritz, Klosters, Davos, Chur ► London, every day

• Step 1 from St Moritz, travel from St Moritz to Zurich by train, leaving St Moritz at 09:02 by narrow gauge Rhätische Bahn train, with a simple change at Chur onto the standard gauge Swiss Federal Railways InterCity train to Zurich, arriving Zurich HB at 12:22.

• Step 1 from Davos or Klosters, leave Davos Platz at 10:01 or Klosters Platz at 10:30, changing from the narrow gauge Rhätische Bahn to the Swiss Federal Railways InterCity train at Landquart, arriving Zurich HB at 12:22.

• Step 2, travel from Zurich to Paris by TGV-Lyria, leaving Zurich HB at 13:34 and arriving Paris Gare de Lyon at 17:38.

  The double-deck TGV-Lyria travels at up to 320 km/h (199 mph) and has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Cross Paris by taxi or metro to the Gare du Nord.

• Step 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 20:12, arriving London St Pancras at 21:30.

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £168 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria starts at €29 each way in 2nd class, €79 each way in 1st class.  See the London to Basel & Zurich section for full details of London-Basel & London-Zurich fares.

• Zurich to St Moritz costs CHF 75 (£57) one-way, CHF 150 (£114) return in 2nd class, check fares at www.sbb.ch.

• Eurostar & TGV-Lyria fares are dynamic & vary like air fares, so book ahead.  On Eurostar & TGV-Lyria, children under 4 go free, children under 12 travel at a child rate.  On Swiss domestic trains, children under 6 go free, children under 16 at half price.

How to buy tickets

• To buy tickets, see the instructions above.

Let Railbookers arrange it for you

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a holiday or short break to Switzerland as a package, including rail travel, hotels & transfers.  On their website you'll find a range of suggested tours & holidays which can be varied or customised to your own requirements.  And as you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens to one part of the itinerary such as a strike or delay. 

    UK 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk

    US 1-888-829-4775, see website

    Canada 1-855-882-2910, see website

    Australia 1300 971 526, see website

    New Zealand 0800 000 554 or see website

Hotels in St Moritz

The Hotel Waldhaus am See is an easy 4 minutes walk from St Moritz railway station, see walking map.  It has friendly staff, a cosy, family-run atmosphere and the restaurant/breakfast room has a lovely view over the lake.  It's also about as affordable as hotels in St Moritz get.  Perfect!  Below, the view across the lake from the hotel, St Moritz station is visible on the right.

The Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl is a truly amazing hotel opened in 1907, perched on a 2,454m high mountain with spectacular views over the Engadin Valley, a short ride by train+funicular from St Moritz/Samedan/Pontresina.  I have never seen a more spectacular view out of any hotel window over breakfast

To reach the Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl, take a local train from St Moritz to Punt Muragl Staz, see Muottas Muragl train route map, or you can get off the Glacier Express at Samedan (the stop before St Moritz) and take a local train to Punt Muragl.  It's then a 250m walk from either of these unstaffed halts to the lower station of the funicular railway which climbs up the mountain to the Hotel Muottas Muragl.  To check train times, simply use the journey planner at www.sbb.ch and run an enquiry from anywhere in Switzerland to Muottas Muragl, that's the name of the upper station of the funicular right next to the hotel.

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London to Liechtenstein

• Vaduz (the capital of Liechtenstein) has no rail station, but buses link it with Buchs & Sargans stations in Switzerland every 30 minutes, and with Feldkirch station in Austria every hour.  The website for all these bus services at www.lba.li.

• For travel between Swiss cities & Vaduz, catch a train to Sargans, then the bus to Vaduz, Post.

  You can check times & buy tickets between any Swiss city and Vaduz, Post at www.thetrainline.com (easy to use, in €, £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem, small booking fee), or at the Swiss Railways website www.sbb.ch.

• For travel between Austrian cities & Vaduz, catch a train to Feldkirch, then the bus to Vaduz, Post.

  You can check times & buy tickets between any Austrian city and Vaduz, Post at www.thetrainline.com (easy to use, in €, £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem, small booking fee) or at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.

• The main Zurich-Innsbruck railway cuts through Liechtenstein, but the expresses don't stop at any of the four local stations within the principality.  Schaan-Vaduz is the most important of these stations, served only by somewhat irregular Buchs-Feldkirch local trains.  You can check train times at www.sbb.ch but will need to look carefully for trains rather than buses - look for departures marked R or RE, not BUS.  Schaan-Vaduz Bahnhof is just 11 minutes by frequent bus from Vaduz itself.

London to Vaduz

• Step 1, travel from London to Zurich by Eurostar & TGV-Lyria as shown above.

• Step 2, take a regular Swiss domestic train from Zurich to Sargans, these run twice an hour, journey time 55-67 minutes, check times & prices at www.sbb.ch.  No reservation necessary, just turn up, buy a ticket and hop on the next train.

• Step 3, catch a bus from outside Sargans station to Vaduz Post Office, every 30 minutes, journey time 32 minutes, check times at www.lba.li.  No reservation necessary, buy a ticket from the driver, fare around CHF 7, children under 16 half price.

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London to Switzerland via Brussels

Going via Brussels takes significantly longer than going via Paris as shown above, but it avoids having to change trains & stations in Paris by metro or taxi.  The changes of train at Brussels Midi & Cologne Hbf are straightforward same-station changes taking only take a couple of minutes getting off one train and onto another.  This might be important to you if you have lots of luggage, kids, or a mobility issue.

London ► Basel

• Option 1:  London depart 09:01 every day, arriving Basel SBB 18:47:  Leave London St Pancras by Eurostar at 09:01, arriving Brussels Midi at 12:05.  Make a quick change onto the 12:25 high-speed ICE from Brussels to Cologne, and change at Cologne Hbf onto another high-speed ICE to Basel SBB 18:47.

• Option 2:  London depart 11:04 every day, arriving Basel SBB 20:47:  Leave London St Pancras by Eurostar at 11:04 arriving Brussels Midi at 14:05, make a quick & easy change (usually a simple cross-platform change on this departure) onto the 14:25 high-speed ICE from Brussels to Cologne and change at Cologne Hbf onto another high-speed ICE to Basel SBB arriving 20:47.

• Change at Basel SBB for Zurich HB, Luzern and all other destinations in Switzerland.

Basel ► London

• Option 1, departing Basel SBB at 07:13 every day, arriving London at 16:57:  Leave Basel SBB at 07:13 by high-speed ICE train to Cologne Hbf, change at Cologne onto another high-speed ICE train to Brussels Midi, change at Brussels onto the 15:56 Eurostar to London St Pancras, arriving 16:57.

• Option 2, departing Basel SBB at 09:13 on Sundays, arriving London at 18:57:  Leave Basel SBB at 09:13 by high-speed ICE train to Cologne Hbf, change at Cologne onto another high-speed ICE train to Brussels Midi, change at Brussels onto the 17:56 Eurostar to London St Pancras, arriving 19:10.

• Option 3, departing Basel SBB at 11:13 Mondays-Fridays, arriving London at 19:57:  Leave Basel SBB at 11:13 by high-speed ICE train to Cologne Hbf, change at Cologne Hbf onto another high-speed ICE train to Brussels Midi, change at Brussels onto the 18:52 Eurostar to London St Pancras, arriving 19:57.

• Option 4, departing Basel SBB at 13:13 daily except Saturdays, arriving London at 21:57:  Leave Basel SBB at 13:13 by high-speed ICE train daily except Saturdays to Cologne, change at Cologne Hbf onto another high-speed ICE train to Brussels Midi, change at Brussels onto the 20:52 Eurostar to London St Pancras, arriving 21:57.

How much does it cost?

• London to Brussels by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £140 return standard premier (1st class).

• Brussels to Basel or Zurich starts at €39.90 each way in 2nd class, €69.90 each way in 1st class.

• Fares are dynamic like air fares, so for the cheapest prices book early and avoid busier times such as Fridays or Sunday afternoons.

• On Eurostar, children under 4 go free, children under 12 travel at a child rate.  On Brussels-Switzerland trains, children under 6 go free, children under 15 half price (but if booked at bahn.de, free when accompanying an adult on a Sparpreis fare).  On Swiss domestic trains, children under 6 go free, children under 16 at half price.  The more generous child age limits can be an advantage on this route!

How to buy tickets

• Buy tickets from London to Switzerland at www.raileurope.com or www.thetrainline.com.

  Anyone from any country can use www.raileurope.com or www.thetrainline.com, in plain English, in €, £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem.  There's a small booking fee.

  Tip:  To get the route via Brussels, click via (Trainline) or More options (Raileurope) and enter Brussels Midi as a via station.

  You print your own ticket, or you can load the Eurostar ticket into the Eurostar app, and show the DB ticket on your laptop or phone.

• When does booking open?

  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead, less than this when the mid-December timetable change intervenes.  More about when booking opens.

• Booking tips

  Fares are dynamic like air fares, so book early for the cheapest prices and avoid busy days such as Fridays or Sunday afternoons.

  To get the route via Brussels, click via (Trainline) or More options (Raileurope) and enter Brussels Midi as a via station.

  After booking you can use the Eurostar Manage Booking system to select an exact seat on Eurostar.

• Is it a through ticket?

  No, there are no through tickets from London any more, DB's Sparpreis London fares were discontinued in March 2020.  www.raileurope.com or www.thetrainline.com will seamlessly sell you a Eurostar ticket to Brussels plus an onward ticket from Brussels to anywhere in Switzerland.

• One-way or round trip?

  On Eurostar, return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways.  On German & Swiss trains, returns are simply two one-ways.  So for a round trip you should book London to Switzerland & back as a return journey, or for more control over the booking, book London-Brussels as a return journey to benefit a Eurostar return fare, add to basket, then book Brussels to Switzerland one way, add to basket, then Switzerland to Brussels one-way, add to basket & check out.

  An 'open jaw' journey out from London to Zurich, back from Luzern to London, would be cheapest booked as London to Brussels & back, add to basket, Brussels to Zurich one-way, add to basket, Luzern to Brussels one-way, add to basket, and check out.  Easy when you know!

• Seat reservations

  A seat reservation on Eurostar is automatically included with every Eurostar ticket.  Seat reservations on ICE trains are optional, if you want a reserved seat it can be added during the booking process for small fee (no fee .  A reserved seat is a good idea, especially at busy periods, so I'd add one when prompted.

• About the 20-minute connections between Eurostar & ICEs at Brussels Midi

  The slick 20-minute connection in Brussels between Eurostar and an onward ICE, sometimes a little less than this, is usually a recognised connection which lots of people make.  It's not usually a problem, especially if you use the Brussels Midi short cut between platforms.

  Even though the system sells you separate tickets either side of Brussels, you are protected by the Railteam Promise/HOTNAT so if there's a delay and you miss the connection you will be allowed to travel on later onwards trains at no extra charge.

  The system is programmed to know which connections are acceptable and which are too tight - if you intend booking your Eurostar and ICE tickets separately (which I often do to check prices for Eurostar and onwards trains separately, and to retain more control over the booking) it's wise to run a London-Cologne enquiry first just to check that the system does indeed recognise that specific Eurostar as connecting with that specific onward ICE, on that specific date.

  Tip:  Nothing stops you booking an earlier Eurostar than the one which directly connects with your chosen onward ICE, if it has cheaper fares or if you want a more robust connection.  There are plenty of places for a meal, coffee or beer between trains in Brussels!

• How to buy a connecting ticket from other UK towns & cities:  See the advice on special add-on tickets here.

Another way to buy tickets

• This is a little more work, but no booking fee.  Obviously, do a dry run on both sites first to check availability & prices.

• Before booking for real, check that your outward Eurostar & ICE are indeed a recognised connection by checking that they appear together when you run a London to Cologne enquiry at int.bahn.de, as explained in the paragraph about the 20-minute connections in Brussels in the previous section.

• Step 1, book the Eurostar from London to Brussels (and back, if returning) at www.eurostar.com and print your own ticket, or load it into the Eurostar app to show on your phone.

  Eurostar return fares are significantly less than two one-ways, so if you're coming back, make sure you book this as a round trip.  After booking you can use the Eurostar Manage Booking system to select an exact seat on Eurostar.

• Step 2, book from Brussels to Basel, Zurich or anywhere in Switzerland at the German Railways website int.bahn.de.

  You print your own ticket or can show it on your laptop or phone.  A round trip is just two one-ways, so book one way at a time as it's easier.  Look for journeys with the fewest changes.

  I recommend registering when prompted so you can log in and check your bookings or re-print tickets at any time.

  An advantage of booking direct with int.bahn.de is that you can select an exact seat on ICE trains from a seating plan.

  Tip:  With int.bahn.de you can add a stopover and still get the end-to-end cheap fare, it allows up to 2 stopovers within the 2-day ticket validity to be incorporated in your booking using the Stopovers feature.  You can specify the length of stay in hours.  Why not stop off in Cologne or Heidelberg?

How to buy tickets by phone

• It's better to book online to avoid additional phone booking fees and so you can see for yourself which departures are cheapest for each stage of the journey.  Most ticketing agencies only work office hours on weekdays, but online booking is possible 24/7.  However, if you want to book by phone, see my list of UK ticketing agencies with phone numbers & opening hours.

Take the Rhine Valley scenic route

• Booking engines normally route you via the modern Cologne-Frankfurt high-speed line as this is obviously fastest.  However, if you don't mind the extra hour, you can take the original, classic Rhine Valley line, snaking along the River Rhine past castles, vineyards and the famous Lorelei Rock.  Learn more about the classic Rhine Valley route here.

• To book tickets via the Rhine Valley route, simply add Koblenz Hbf as a stopover.  If using www.raileurope.com, click More options and enter Koblenz Hbf, leaving duration zero.  If using int.bahn.de, click Stopovers and enter Koblenz Hbf leaving length of stay as 00:00.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Brussels by Eurostar

Eurostar trains link London & Brussels in just 2 hours, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Brussels Midi station guide & short cut for changing trains in Brussels.

2. Brussels to Cologne & Cologne to Switzerland by ICE3

Germany's superb ICEs have a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  In 1st class, bistro orders are taken at your seat.  50 minutes after leaving Brussels the ICE calls at Liège, where you can admire the impressive station designed by celebrity architect Santiago Calatrava.  As you approach Cologne Hbf you'll see the twin towers of Cologne Cathedral on the right, next to the station.  More information about ICE3.  Brussels Midi station guide.  Cologne Hbf station guide.

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London to Switzerland by ferry from Harwich

You might prefer the idea of cruising overnight in a comfy en suite cabin on the Stena Line superferry (watch the video!), then taking a superb German ICE train to Switzerland next day, and this route is useful If you live in East Anglia, want to avoid the Channel Tunnel, if the French are on strike again, or if all the cheap Eurostar fares have sold out.  It's one of the routes shown in dark blue on the route map above.

Incidentally, I don't recommend Dover-Calais.  Although it's more direct, it's has no through ticketing and long walks or taxis are required between station & port in both Dover & Calais.  The Harwich-Hoek route has seamless train/ferry connections & one ticket covers the British train and the ferry.

London, Cambridge & Harwich ► Switzerland

• Day 1, travel from London to Hoek van Holland overnight by Stena Line Rail & Sail.

  You leave London Liverpool Street at 18:45 Mondays-Fridays, 19:36 Saturdays or 20:00 Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.

  You leave Cambridge at 19:47 Mondays-Saturdays or 19:45 on Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.

  At Harwich, the station is right next to the ferry terminal and you walk off the train into the terminal, check in at the Stena Line desk and walk straight onto Stena Line's luxurious overnight superferry Stena Hollandica to Hoek van Holland.

  The ferry sails at 23:00 and arrives at Hoek van Holland at 08:00 next morning, Dutch time.

  All passengers travel in cosy private cabins with en suite toilet & shower & satellite TV.  Deluxe Comfort class & Captains class cabins are also available, and there's free WiFi in the lounges, restaurants & bars on 9 deck.  You can get on board the ferry around 9pm, have a late dinner in the restaurant and settle into your cabin.

  This is an integrated train & ferry service, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details, photos & travel tips.  The special fare from London is valid from any Abellio Greater Anglia station, for example Norwich, Cambridge, Romford, Ilford, Ipswich.

• Day 2, take the frequent metro train from Hoek van Holland Haven to Rotterdam Alexander followed by a mainline train to Utrecht, arriving at or before 10:28.  See the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.

• Day 2, travel from Utrecht to Switzerland by train.

  Take the 11:04 high-speed ICE train from Utrecht to Frankfurt, arriving Frankfurt (Main) Hbf at 14:31.  Change onto the 14:50 high-speed ICE train from Frankfurt (Main) Hbf to Basel SBB (arrive 17:47), Bern (arrive 18:56) or Interlaken (arrive 19:58).

  Change in Basel or Bern for destinations all over Switzerland.  Check times & prices from Utrecht to almost anywhere in Switzerland at int.bahn.de (Tip:  Click Stopovers and enter Frankfurt(Main)Hbf).

  Alternatively, you could spend the day in Amsterdam and take the new Nightjet sleeper train from Amsterdam Centraal to Basel SBB & Zurich HB overnight in an economical couchette or private sleeper, see here for details.

Switzerland ► Harwich, Cambridge & London

• Day 1, travel from Switzerland to Utrecht by train.

  You can leave Basel SBB at 10:13 by high-speed ICE train to Frankfurt (Main) Hbf arriving at 13:08.  Change in Frankfurt onto the 13:26 high-speed ICE train from Frankfurt (Main) Hbf to Utrecht Centraal, arriving 17:23. 

  Times may vary, but it's always possible to do this journey with just 1 change.  Check times & prices from almost anywhere in Switzerland to Utrecht at int.bahn.de (Tip:  Click Stopovers and enter Frankfurt(Main)Hbf).

  Alternatively, you could leave Switzerland the previous evening on the new Nightjet sleeper train from Zurich HB & Basel SBB to Amsterdam Centraal overnight in an economical couchette or private sleeper, and spend the day exploring Amsterdam, see here for details.

• Day 1, travel from Utrecht to London overnight by Stena Line Rail & Sail.

  You take a frequent Dutch intercity train from Utrecht Centraal to Rotterdam Alexander and change there onto the frequent metro to Hoek van Holland Haven. 

  At Hoek, the ferry terminal is right next to the station.  Taking the 10:13 from Basel gives you plenty of time to connect with the overnight ferry, so you could stop off in Utrecht or Rotterdam for dinner.  Just make sure you reach Hoek before 21:00, ferry check-in closes 45 minutes before sailing time.

  At Hoek van Holland, check in at the Stena Line desk then walk onto the luxurious superferry Stena Britannica and sail overnight to Harwich in a snug private cabin with shower, toilet & satellite TV.

  The ferry sails from Hoek at 22:00 and arrives at Harwich International at 06:30 next morning, UK time.

  In the morning on Day 2, Take a train from Harwich to London Liverpool Street arriving around 08:56, or from Harwich to Cambridge arriving 09:41 (10:39 on Sundays).  See the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.

How much does it cost?

• London or any Greater Anglia station to Hoek van Holland starts at £62 per person each way, plus cabin.

  Cabins start at £34 for a single berth cabin or £45 per cabin for a 2-berth, and are compulsory on the night sailing.  For full details of fares and cabin types and costs, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.

  Hoek van Holland to Rotterdam Alexander by metro costs around €4.

• Rotterdam Alexander to stations in Switzerland starts at €37.90 each way in 2nd class or €79.90 in 1st class.

  Fares vary like air fares, so book ahead.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, buy a Stena Line Rail & Sail ticket from London to Hoek van Holland as shown on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.

  Buy the metro ticket from Hoek van Holland to Rotterdam Alexander as shown on that page.

• Step 2, book your trains from Rotterdam Alexander to Switzerland at the German Railways website int.bahn.de.  You can book to any destination station you like in Switzerland.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead, less when the mid-December timetable change intervenes.  You print your own ticket or can show it on your laptop or phone.

What's the journey like?

Step 1, London to Holland by train & ferry

A train takes you from London's Liverpool Street station directly to the ferry terminal at Harwich.  You walk off the train, into the terminal, get your boarding card & cabin key at the Stena Line check-in desk and walk straight onto the overnight ferry to Hoek van Holland.  The superferry Stena Britannica is the largest ferry of its kind in the world.  The journey from London to Holland is explained in detail on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.  See the video.

Step 2, from Holland across Germany to Switzerland by ICE high-speed train

At Hoek van Holland, you walk off the ship, through passport control and straight onto the station for the frequent metro train to Rotterdam Alexander.  Change at Rotterdam Alexander for a train to Utrecht Centraal.  Then take a superb German ICE train from Utrecht to Cologne and on to Switzerland.   More information about ICE trains.

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London to Switzerland via Portsmouth

This route is ideal if you live on the south coast.  It's also a good alternative to Eurostar from London if you want to avoid the Channel Tunnel or if Eurostar is expensive (for example, at short notice) - although the train/ferry/train transfers are much easier via Harwich & Hoek van Holland as stations & ferry terminals are integrated, on the Portsmouth-Caen route a taxi transfer is needed between train & ferry in Portsmouth, and a bus or taxi transfer in Caen.

• Step 1, travel from London or Portsmouth to Paris overnight by train & ferry.

  You leave London around 18:00 by train to Portsmouth, take a taxi to the Continental Ferry Port and sail overnight from Portsmouth to Caen with Brittany Ferries, sleeping in a cosy private cabin with shower & toilet 22:45-06:45.  Next morning, transfer to Caen station by bus or taxi and take a train into Paris St Lazare, arriving around 11:05.

  For full details see the London to Paris by train & ferry page.  Transfer from Paris St Lazare to Paris Gare de Lyon by taxi or metro.

• Step 2, travel from Paris to Switzerland on any afternoon train.

  Look up Paris-Switzerland trains at www.raileurope.com or www.thetrainline.com (both easy to use, in €, £ or $, small booking fee) or www.sncf-connect.com (in €, more fiddly).  Just make sure you allow at least 2hours between trains in Paris.

The luxurious Normandie at Portsmouth.

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Scotland & North to Switzerland

If you live in the North of England or Scotland, option 1 is to take a train up to London and travel from London to Switzerland as described above.  This may well be the quickest & easiest option.  Here's some advice on buying connecting train tickets to London.  If you live in Scotland, the Caledonian Sleepers will get you up to London in time for a morning Eurostar & afternoon TGV to Switzerland.

But consider option 2, by-passing London by taking a luxurious overnight cruise ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam run by DFDS Seaways or a similar overnight ferry from Hull to Rotterdam run by P&O Ferries, then taking a fast comfortable train to Switzerland.

Scotland & the North ► Amsterdam ► Switzerland

• Day 1, take a train to either Hull or Newcastle, whichever is most convenient for where you live.

  In Hull, transfer to P&O ferry terminal and sail overnight from Hull to Rotterdam by P&O cruise ferry, with bus/train connection to Amsterdam Centraal.  The ferry has bars, restaurants & cosy en suite cabins.  For details of schedule, fares & tickets, see the Hull-Rotterdam page.

  In Newcastle, transfer to the DFDS ferry terminal at North Shields and sail overnight from Newcastle to Amsterdam by DFDS Seaways cruise ferry.  The ferry has bars, restaurants & cosy en suite cabins.  For details of schedule, fares & tickets see the Newcastle-Amsterdam page.

• Day 2, travel by fast comfortable train from Rotterdam Centraal or Amsterdam Centraal to anywhere you like in Switzerland.  You can easily check train times & prices at the German Railways website int.bahn.de - just make sure you allow plenty of time, both to cover any likely delay to the ferry and for the bus transfers from ferry terminal to station.  I suggest booking trains leaving around midday.

  Alternatively, you could spend the day in Amsterdam and take the new Nightjet sleeper train from Amsterdam Centraal to Basel SBB & Zurich HB overnight in an economical couchette or private sleeper, see here for details.

Switzerland ► Amsterdam ► Scotland & the North

• Day 1, take a Swiss train from anywhere in Switzerland to Rotterdam Centraal (for P&O to Hull) or to Amsterdam Centraal (for DFDS to Newcastle), you can check times & prices at the German Railways website int.bahn.de.  Just remember to allow plenty of time, meaning hours not minutes, for any likely delay to the train, for the bus transfer to the ferry terminal, and for the ferry check-in.

  Alternatively, you could leave Switzerland the previous evening on the new Nightjet sleeper train from Zurich HB & Basel SBB to Amsterdam Centraal in an economical couchette or private sleeper, and spend the day exploring Amsterdam, see here for details.

• Day 1 early evening, transfer by DFDS bus from Amsterdam Centraal to IJmuiden (for the DFDS ferry to Newcastle) or by P&O bus from Rotterdam Centraal to Rotterdam Europoort for the P&O ferry to Hull.

• Day 1 evening, sail overnight by luxurious cruise ferry from Rotterdam Europoort to Hull with P&O Ferries or from IJmuiden to Newcastle with DFDS, whichever UK port is most convenient for where you live, arriving next morning (day 2).  Transfer to the station and take a train home. 

  For details of timetables, fares & how to buy tickets from Amsterdam to the UK via these ferry routes, see the Hull-Rotterdam page or the Newcastle-Amsterdam page.

Fares & how to buy tickets

• To check train fares and buy train tickets to Hull or Newcastle, use www.nationalrail.co.uk or any train operator website such as www.tfwrail.wales.

• To check ferry fares & book the ferry online, go to www.dfds.co.uk (Newcastle-Amsterdam), www.poferries.com (Hull-Rotterdam).

• To check train times & prices and to buy tickets from Rotterdam or Amsterdam to any station in Switzerland, use the German Railways website int.bahn.de.  You print your own ticket.

What's the journey like?

1. Newcastle to Amsterdam (DFDS) or Hull to Rotterdam (P&O) by overnight cruise ferry

Both ferries have private en suite cabins, restaurants, bars, cinema, a floating hotel.  If travelling with DFDS from Newcastle, a transfer bus takes you from IJmuiden ferry terminal to Amsterdam Centraal station next morning.  If travelling with P&O from Hull, a transfer bus takes you from Rotterdam Europoort ferry terminal to Rotterdam Centraal, from where frequent Dutch trains run to Utrecht.

2.  From Holland across Germany to Switzerland by ICE high-speed train

Take an ICE train from Amsterdam or Utrecht to Cologne or Frankfurt, then another ICE to Basel, Zurich with connections all over Switzerland.  There are power sockets at all seats, free WiFi and a bistro-restaurant serving drinks, snacks and meals.  More info about ICE trains.

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Definitely take a good guidebook.  For the independent traveller, I think this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide.  Both guidebooks provide the same excellent level of practical information and historical background. You won't regret buying one!

Buy from Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.com

Alternatively, you can download just the chapters or areas you need in .PDF format from the Lonely Planet Website, from around £2.99 or US$4.95 a chapter.

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European Rail Timetable & maps

The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted.  See an extract from the map.  Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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Hotels in Switzerland

• In Zurich, for something special, look no further than the superb Hotel Schweizerhof, located right next to Zurich station.  One of my favourite hotels, they'll even send a uniformed commissionaire to meet you at the station and carry your bags across the road.

• In St Moritz, The Hotel Waldhaus am See is an easy 4 minutes walk from St Moritz railway station, see walking map.  It has friendly staff, a cosy, family-run atmosphere and the restaurant/breakfast room has a lovely view over the lake.  It's also about as affordable as hotels in St Moritz get.  Alternatively, the Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl is a truly amazing place to stay perched on the top of a mountain, with clean simple and (for Switzerland) inexpensive rooms.  It's reached via the Muottas Muragl funicular railway from Punt Muragl station, between Pontresina & St Moritz.

• In Zermatt, The Monte Rosa Hotel is the most famous place to stay if your budget allows.  It was from here that Edward Whymper set out on the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865.  It's in the centre of the town 400m from the station with a superb 9/10 review score.  Otherwise (if your budget won't stretch to the deluxe Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, opened in 1879), a much more affordable choice close to the station in Zermatt's main street is the clean & comfortable Hotel Garni Testa Grigia.

Hotels in Paris near the station

• Recommended hotels near the Gare du Nord:  Libertel Gare du Nord Suede (5 min walk from Gare du Nord, 2-star, doubles €135), 25 Hours Terminus Nord (formerly the Mercure Terminus Nord, now refurbished in a decidedly funky style, 3-star, directly across the road from the station);  Art Hotel (3-star);  Avalon Hotel (2-star);  Hotel Cambrai (5 min walk from Gare du Nord, 1-star).

• Recommended hotels near the Gare de Lyon:  Mercure Paris Gare de Lyon (part of the station itself next to the clock tower, 4-star, see the photo below);  the Hotel Terminus Lyon (right in front of the station, 3-star);  the Novotel Paris Gare de Lyon (opposite the station, 4-star);  Mistral Hotel (800m from Gare de Lyon, 1-star);  Hotel 26 Faubourg (5 min walk from Gare de Lyon, 2-star);

The Mercure Hotel entrance, next to the Gare de Lyon's famous clock tower.  Handy for early train departures!

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Travel insurance & other tips

Always take out travel insurance

You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer.  It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit.  These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself.  Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.

  www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection and gets 4.7 out of 5 on Trustpilot.

  www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get an eSIM with mobile data package

Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a European mobile data package and stay connected.  Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list.  There's no need to buy a physical SIM card!  Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.

Get a Curve card for foreign travel

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate then add a foreign transaction fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader.  The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than getting a card out).  I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  Why you need a VPN

When travelling you may use free public WiFi which is often insecure.  A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi.  It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply.  See VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using this link you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription.  I also get some commission to help support this site.

Carry an Anker powerbank

Tickets, reservations, hotel bookings and Interrail or Eurail passes are often now held on your mobile phone.  You daren't let it run out of power, and you can't always rely on the phone's internal battery or on being near a power outlet.  I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over.  Buy from Amazon.co.uk or Buy from Amazon.com.

Touring cities?  Use hill walking shoes!

One of the best things I've done is swap my normal shoes for hill-walking shoes, in my case from Scarpa.  They're intended for hiking across the Pennines not wandering around Florence, but the support and cushioning for hiking works equally well when you're on your feet all day exploring foreign cities.  My feet used to give out first and limit my day, now the rest of me gives up before they do!

 

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