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What is the Glacier Express?
The Glacier Express & Bernina Express are Switzerland's two most scenic train journeys - which has the edge? Darned if I can decide, you'll just have to do both. The Glacier Express is a regular scheduled train between Zermatt at the foot of the Matterhorn and St Moritz in the Engadin skiing area. Billed as Europe's slowest express, it's a narrow-gauge train which takes 7½ hours to cover just over 290 km (180 miles), at an average of around 24 mph. But you won't mind, as spectacular Swiss mountain scenery unfolds outside the train's panoramic sightseeing windows while you eat lunch accompanied by crisp Swiss white wine (their Johannisberg white wine is wonderful). The Glacier Express is run jointly by two private Swiss railways, the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (MGB) and the Rhätische Bahn (RhB), who also operate the hourly local trains over the same route. In 2017 they formed a separate company to operate the Glacier Express, Glacier Express AG. There is one daily Glacier Express train in each direction in winter, but up to three daily Glacier Expresses in summer.
On board the Glacier Express
The Glacier Express uses modern panoramic coaches specially built for the service in 2006. This train is a real pleasure to travel on, clean, comfortable, carpeted and air-conditioned, its most distinctive features are the huge panoramic side windows and glass skylights as well, so you don't miss any of the scenery!
In 2nd class, seats are arranged 2+2 across the car width, with bays of 4 around a table on each side of the aisle. In 1st class cars seats are 2+1 across the car width, with bays of 4 seats around a table on one side of the aisle and bays of 2 seats across a table on the other. Apart from more space and fewer passengers per coach, seats are very similar and there is little to choose from between 1st and 2nd class as both are excellent. Although for couples, getting face-to-face table for two is a good reason for going 1st class. See Glacier Express seating plan.
There is a food service car, but staff come down the train taking orders for drinks, snacks and lunch. You can pre-book a complete meal, which is served at your seat on real china with proper cutlery and tablecloth, with a choice of starters, main courses and desserts, accompanied by a wide selection of wines. You can find sample menus and wine list at the Glacier Express website, www.glacierexpress.ch under Travel planning then Gastronomy. Or feel free to bring your own picnic and your own beer or bottle of wine.
Excellence class
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The Glacier Express has 1st & 2nd class, but from 2019 there's also Excellence class. Excellence class is only available on trains 902 & 903/923.
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Excellence class gets you a seat in a special deluxe panoramic car with seats arranged 1+1 across the car width, face-to-face tables for two on both sides of the aisle, everyone gets a window seat. There's a cocktail bar at one end of the car exclusive to Excellence class passengers. A 5-course regional menu with wine is included in the reservation fee. Complimentary coffee, juice, snacks, champagne. A host travels with the car. In Excellence class, you luggage travels in a separate locked baggage area. See the 360º photo of Excellence class here (please let me know if this link stops working).
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To travel in Excellence class you pay the 1st class fare (a 1st class Eurail pass, Interrail pass or Swiss Travel Pass also works) plus a CHF 420 reservation fee (about €375). You can buy tickets at www.glacierexpress.ch and print them out.
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Traveller James Morris reports: "Excellence Class is brilliant. A professional concierge service helps you with your bags and shows you to your seat. They are friendly and chatty, and nothing is too much trouble. They are clued up on the food and drink they serve and explain it all to you. They wear white gloves when serving, and know how to open and pour champagne etc. I had iced tea all trip, with spring water and herbs, best iced tea ever. I was never without a drink in front of me all trip. They refill glasses or get you a new bottle of water without a second thought. For those that do drink. It was champagne to start, followed by a different wine for each course of the meal. You never went without. They served a full 7 course meal, amazing food. The seats are very comfortable with good recline, and full lumbar adjustment. A shelf down by the side of your seat with easy to reach sockets and USB charger. An IPad was provided to help you follow the journey. A Glacier Express tilting glass was given as a souvenir at the end of the trip, along with Excellence Class branded chewing gum or hand cream. On arrival, you are told to just leave the train, and someone comes onboard to take your bags off the train. It exceeded my expectations, which isn't bad considering the price. Definitely a must do if you can afford it."
Glacier Express timetable
There is one daily Glacier Express in winter from Zermatt to St Moritz, but from May to October there are additional Glacier Expresses, as shown below.
Summer = 13 May to 15 October 2023. Summer trains 904 & 905 will in fact start running earlier, on 6 April 2023.
Winter = 10 December 2023 to May 2024.
There is no Glacier Express service at all from 16 October to 9 December 2023.
Trains 902 & 903 run every day all year round except 16 October to 9 December 2023.
f = To/from Davos, you change trains at Filisur, using the hourly branch line train between Filisur & Davos.
How much does it cost?
Ordinary Swiss rail tickets & railpasses are valid on the Glacier Express (if you've a railpass see here), but a reservation fee must be paid in addition to the normal fare.
Children under 6 go free, children aged 6 to 16 pay half fare but must pay the adult supplement.
For the cost of travel in the new Excellence class, see above.
How to buy tickets
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First some explanation. Listen up, I'm going to save you some money...
You need two things to travel on the Glacier Express: (1) A seat reservation which secures your place on the train and (2) a supporting ticket. The ticket can be a regular point-to-point train ticket or a Saver Day Pass or Swiss Travel Pass, or Interrail or Eurail pass.
I recommend buying the seat reservation first, then buying the ticket later, separately, for two reasons:
First, reservations open 93 days ahead, but tickets only go on sale 60 days ahead. The Glacier Express is very popular in summer and sells out on some dates. Even when places are available, all the window seats can sell out. So make a reservation as soon after they open 93 days out as you can. Between 93 & 60 days ahead you cannot buy the supporting ticket, but can buy the reservation on its own.
Second, the official Glacier Express website only appears to sell expensive full-price tickets, even when a Saver Day Pass is available at a fraction of the cost and covers the whole Glacier Express route. Wouldn't you rather pay CHF 52 than CHF 152? See the fares above. Of course you would. So you buy a reservation at the Glacier Express website, then go and buy a Saver Day Pass somewhere else.
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Step 1, make a seat reservation.
Reservations open 93 days ahead.
Go to the official Glacier Express website, www.glacierexpress.ch and run an enquiry for your journey.
Select Classic Glacier Express for normal 1st & 2nd class, or select Excellence class.
If you're booking between 93 and 60 days ahead, it'll warn you that it can only sell a reservation at this time, which is what you want anyway.
Select the train you want, then select seats from the carriage seat map. Do not worry about the price it shows at this stage.
You can't tell which seats face forward or which side of the train they'll be, because the system has no idea which way round the carriage will be marshalled in the train. I recommend that a couple book face-to-face window seats, a family books 4 seats around a table.
Now the science bit: On the page where you enter your personal details, change the Reservation drop-down box to Reservation only.
You should see the price drop to the cost of a Glacier Express seat reservation, see the fares section above.
Go ahead and buy the reservation, you are then safely booked on the Glacier Express!
In principle, you could now simply buy a full-price standard ticket at the station 10 minutes before the train goes, full-price standard tickets have unlimited availability and cannot sell out. But it's a lot cheaper to buy a ticket in advance, as shown below...
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Step 2, buy the ticket.
If you have a Swiss Travel Pass, Interrail or Eurail pass, you're already ticketed so no further action is necessary. If you don't have such a pass, here's how to buy a ticket to support your reservation:
Tickets go on sale 60 days ahead. You can't buy before sales open.
Go to Omio.com and run an enquiry for the journey you wish to make, for example Zermatt to St Moritz.
Find your train and select it. Look for a train with 0 changes, just remember there is more than one Glacier Express a day in summer - although as Saver Day Passes are good for any train, it doesn't really matter if you pick the wrong one.
If a Saver Day Pass is available it will be offered, usually as the cheapest option. Select it in the class you want, which must obviously correspond to the class or reservation you've bought.
Go ahead and buy it. You can print it out or show it on your phone.
A Saver Day Pass gives unlimited travel all day all over Switzerland on most main train routes including the MGB & RhB who run the Glacier Express, and the mainline SBB & BLS routes. The price varies depending how far ahead you buy it and how popular that day is. Read more about Saver Day Passes here.
Omio.com is really easy to use, it adds a small booking fee and I get a little commission if you book this way. Alternatively, you can buy tickets (including Saver Day Passes) with no booking fee at www.sbb.ch but it's a little more fiddly and may default to a 50% Half Fare Card discount which you need to be sure to remove before buying.
Note that although Omio.com appears to 'book' you on the Glacier Express, in fact it only sells you an open ticket, not the compulsory Glacier Express reservation. But if you've followed my instructions you'll already have that.
If you've an Interrail, Eurail or Swiss Travel Pass
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Interrail & Eurail passes cover the Rhätische Bahn (RhB) and the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (MGB) so cover the whole Glacier Express route. Until 2017, Eurail & Interrail gave free travel on the RhB part of the trip, but only a discount on MGB. They now give free travel on both..
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So all you need is a Glacier Express seat reservation, see the reservation prices above. You can even travel in the new Excellence class if you have a 1st class pass and make an Excellence class reservation.
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To make a reservation, follow step 1 in the How to buy tickets section above. You do not need to follow step 2 as you have a pass.
Holidays & tours on the Glacier Express
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Railbookers: For a custom-made trip on the Glacier Express with trains, transfer & hotels arranged for you as a package, call Railbookers. Tell them what you want, and they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels. They get great reviews and take good care of their guests.
Check out two of their top sellers: 8-day Switzerland's Lakes & Mountains tour (link to their UK site) or Swiss Lakes & Mountains tour (link to their US & Canada site) which includes both Glacier Express & Bernina Express trains, and their shorter 5-day Classic Bernina Express & Glacier Express tour (link to their UK site) or Classic Bernina Express & Glacier Express tour (link to their US & Canada site) which also combine these two classic Alpine routes.
UK call 0207 864 4600,
www.railbookers.co.uk
US 1-888-829-4775,
www.railbookers.com
Canada 1-855-882-2910,
www.railbookers.com
Australia 1300 971 526,
www.railbookers.com.au
New Zealand 0800 000 554 or
see
website
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Tailor Made Rail can also organise a trip to Switzerland by train, with hotels and transfers arranged as a package. Call their dedicated seat61 phone line 020 3778 1461 and quote seat 61 when booking. From outside the UK call +44 20 3778 1461. Lines open 09:00-17:30 Monday-Friday. Their website is www.tailormaderail.com/trains/glacier-express-holidays.
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Escorted tours: If you'd prefer to go to Switzerland to travel on the famous Glacier Express on an escorted tour with a convivial group of travellers rather than travelling solo, here are the two UK companies which arrange escorted tours by train from the UK to destinations all over Europe on various dates through the year, including popular trips taking in the Glacier Express and equally famous Bernina Express. Both companies are part of the same group.
Rail Discoveries,
www.raildiscoveries.com,
01904 730 727
Great Rail
Journeys,
www.greatrail.com,
01904 527 120
More information...
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The Glacier Express has its own website, www.glacierexpress.ch, where you can check up to date times & fares, and the current menu.
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You can read more history & background at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glacier_Express.
A winter journey on the Glacier Express
Travel tips & FAQ
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What time of year is best? The Glacier Express runs all year round apart from a short break from Late October to mid-December (see the timetable above), so you can go almost any time. Indeed, you really need to do it twice, as it's a totally different experience through a snowy wonderland in the depths of winter compared to a summer jaunt through lush green Swiss meadows. You can still go in the October-December period when there's no Glacier Express, as you can use local trains along exactly the same route, just with a change of train or two somewhere, use www.sbb.ch to find times.
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Is eastbound or westbound better? Either is fine as both directions do the whole run in daylight, even in winter.
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Should you go first or second class? The scenery is exactly the same, the only difference is the seating, see the photos above. As you can see, 2nd class seats are arranged 2+2 across the car width, 1st class seats are arranged 2+1, so 1st class seats offer more elbow room and fewer passengers per car. It also means that there are tables-for-two on one side of the aisle, which are nicer for couples than sharing a 4-seater section in 2nd class. But there's no difference in on-board service, all you're paying for is the lower-density seating. 2nd class is absolutely fine.
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Which side of the train to sit? Eastbound, the right-hand side is best along the Mattertal Valley between Zermatt and Brig, and also between Chur and St Moritz with great views of the Landwasser Viaduct. In the Rhine Gorge, all the river scenery is on the left. Westbound, it'll obviously be the opposite side. However, when booking you can't tell which way round the carriages will be, so unfortunately you can't reserve a seat on a specific side. But feel free to move if seats are free, and if there's four of you, you could reserve the two window seats on both sides.
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Luggage on the Glacier Express: Like any other European train, you take your luggage on board with you and within reason you can take whatever you like, suitcases, backpacks, whatever. You put your bags in the space between the seat backs (which will take quite a large bag or suitcase), or on the luggage rack at one end of the car near the entrance, see the photos below.
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Food on the Glacier Express: There's a catering car selling tea, coffee, snacks and souvenirs and they offer a lunch service at your seat. Or you're free to bring your own picnic and even wine on board, as on other European trains.
Route map
Yellow highlighted = Zermatt-Brig-Chur-St Moritz by Glacier Express. Green = scenic sections of line. Orange = bus
Dashed railway line (e.g. around Fiesch) = section where train uses rack-&-pinion to grip because of steep gradient.
Dotted railway line (e.g. Furka Tunnel) = tunnel.
Reproduced from the excellent European Rail Map with kind permission of the European Rail Timetable people.
I recommend buying a copy of the European Rail Map for your travels, www.europeanrailtimetable.eu with shipping worldwide.
A brief history of the Glacier Express
After the first world war, Switzerland steadily gained popularity as a winter and summer holiday destination for those who could afford it. Railways grew up to support this tourism, and through services on he metre-gauge line between Brig, Chur and St Moritz started in 1926. But it was in June 1930 that the first Zermatt to St Moritz 'Glacier Express' started running, initially summer only, and run jointly by the BVZ (Brig-Visp-Zermattbahn), FOB (Furka Oberalp Bahn) and RhB (Rhätische Bahn). It could not run all year because of the impossibility of keeping the line over the Oberalp pass open in winter. Construction of the Furka base tunnel started in 1973, and at long last in 1982 all-year operation was inaugurated between Zermatt and St Moritz. BVZ and FOB merged in 2003 to form the MGB (Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn). The Glacier Express has been progressively developed as a premier tourist attraction in its own right, and rightly so, though it continues to form an integral part of the Swiss transport network. More info at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glacier_Express.
Places to stay before or after a journey on the Glacier Express
There's no shortage of hotels in Zermatt or St Moritz, I recommend searching at booking.com, anything with a review score over 8.0 will be great.
But I suggest something special: The Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl near St Moritz is an amazing hotel opened in 1907, perched on a 2,454m high mountain with spectacular views over the Engadin Valley. I have never seen any view as spectacular out of a hotel window over breakfast.
To reach the Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl, take a local train from St Moritz to Punt Muragl Staz, see Muottas Muragl train route map, or you can get off the Glacier Express at Samedan (the stop before St Moritz) and take a local train to Punt Muragl. It's then a 250m walk from either of these unstaffed halts to the lower station of the funicular railway which climbs up the mountain to the Hotel Muottas Muragl. To check train times, simply use the journey planner at www.sbb.ch and run an enquiry from anywhere in Switzerland to Muottas Muragl, that's the name of the upper station of the funicular right next to the hotel.
