Cusco to Puno by train.  Courtesy Discoverbyrail.com.

Taking the train in Peru...

Peru has several train services of interest to visitors, including the famous train to Machu Picchu where a confusing array of trains from several different operators compete to take you to the Inca ruins - this page will help explain the options. 

There are in fact two separate networks in Peru, the southern network which includes Cusco to Machu Picchu & Cusco to Puno on Lake Titicaca and the northern network which links Lima with Huancayo.

  Cusco to Machu Picchu for the famous Inca ruins.

  Cusco to Puno & Lake Titicaca

  Lima to Huancayao & Huancavelica

Useful country information

Trains to Machu Picchu

	Take the train to Machu Picchu...  Regular train slink Cusco and Ollantaytambo with the famous Inca city of Machu Picchu...  Photo courtesy  of Tim Roberts

Visiting the Inca ruins...

Unless you hike there up the Sacred Valley on foot along the Inca Trail, you'll need to take a train to reach the famous Inca ruins at Machu Picchu.  However, there are three possible starting points, namely Poroy, which is 13 km (8 miles) from Cusco, Ollantaytambo which is in the Sacred Valley itself, 89 km (56 miles) from Cusco, and there's also one train a day from Urubamba.  There are two competing train companies, PeruRail is the main one, Inca Rail the smaller one.  PeruRail operates a range of different train classes to suit different budgets from the cheap and cheerful Expedition through the mid-range Vistadome to the super-deluxe Hiram Bingham.  This page will guide you through the options for an unforgettable visit to Machu Picchu.

Option 1:  Cusco to Machu Picchu with www.perurail.com...

The nicest option is to catch the train to Machu Picchu all the way from Cusco, the big city where most visitors arrive.  Sadly, trains no longer depart from the historic main station in Cusco itself.  As from 1 April 2009 all the tourist trains leave from Poroy station, a local halt situated 13 kilometres (8 miles) west of Cuzco.  This means you miss out on the scenic but slow zig-zag train ride up Picchu Hill between Cuzco & Poroy, but you take the train almost all the way from Cusco to Machu Picchu. 

How do you get to Poroy?  You'll need to take a bus or taxi from downtown Cusco to Poroy.  A 3-seat taxi from Cusco to Poroy costs around 20-30 soles (£4-£6 or $6-$9) per taxi, and takes around 20 minutes.  There's a local bus for 6 soles per person.

(Note that in the off-season January to April PeruRail now operate a 'bimodal' service by bus from Cusco to Pachar station to pick up the train there, the trains don't start at Poroy during this period.  So more bus, less train...)

Which train company to choose?  The trains from Poroy to Machu Picchu are all run by www.perurail.com, which is part of the Venice Simplon Orient Express group.  PeruRail took over operation of this network from the Peruvian railway company ENAFER in 1999. If you can't get a seat on the three daily direct trains from Poroy, there are additional shuttle trains from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu, run by a choice of three different companies, see here.

Which train to choose?  How much does it cost?  PeruRail run four different trains from Poroy to Machu Picchu every day, aimed at different budgets:

• The Hiram Bingham.  This is the super-deluxe option and the most expensive, from around $475 (£285) each way per person, including gourmet brunch on the way out and dinner on the way back, a selection of Peruvian wine, cocktails, entertainment, bus connections & entrance to the Machu Picchu citadel plus guided tour.  A real luxury experience!  See the Hiram Bingham photos below.

• The Vistadome.  This is the mid-range option, costing around $90 per person including complimentary snacks & non-alcoholic drinks served at your seat.  It's a series of diesel railcars with panoramic windows as its name suggests, see the Vistadome photos below.

• The Expedition (formerly the Backpacker).  This is the budget option, from around $77 each way per person.  It has basic but reasonably comfortable seating with panoramic windows and a buffet car where you can buy non-alcoholic drinks and snacks.  In many ways it's not really that different from the Vistadome.

• The Local.  A subsidised train service only for local Peruvian communities and (at certain times of year) Peruvian citizens, leaving Cusco at 07:15.  Foreigners aren't allowed on this train, and it's not shown on their website.

Poroy to Machu Picchu is 86 km (54 miles). Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu is 38 km (24 miles).  Poroy is 3486 metres above sea level, Ollantaytambo 2600m, Machu Picchu 2350m.

Option 2:  Shuttle trains from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu with one of two companies:

www.perurail.com or www.incarail.com...

If you can't get a ticket for one of the PeruRail trains starting direct from Cusco (or rather, from Poroy just 8 miles away), don't worry, there are additional shuttle trains from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu, run by a choice of two different companies.  Ollantaytambo is 89 km (56 miles) from Cusco, 1 hour 40 minutes by taxi, so a longer bus or taxi ride, shorter train ride.  There's also one train a day from Urubamba.

• PeruRail service:  www.perurail.com operates shuttle trains from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu at intervals through the day.  Some of these shuttle trains are 'Vistadome' and some the cheaper 'Expedition'.  Fares vary by date and departure, but Expedition fares start at around $35, Vistadome fares at around $54.  Check times and fares and book online at www.perurail.com.

  Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu departures at 06:10, 07:05, 07:45, 08:00, 08:53, 10:32, 12:58, 13:27, 15:37, 19:00, 21:00.  Journey time 1 hour 30 minutes. 

  Machu Picchu to Ollantaytambo departures at 05:35, 08:53, 10:55, 13:37, 14:55, 15:48, 16:22, 17:27, 18:10, 18:45, 21:30.  Journey time 1 hour 30 minutes. 

• Inca Rail:  www.incarail.com runs several trains a day, leaving Ollantaytambo at 06:40, 07:20, 11:15 and 16:36, returning from Machu Picchu at 08:30, 14:02 and 19:00. Journey time around 1 hour 30 minutes, with fares from around $70 each way.  Check times and fares on their website.  They now offer three classes, 'Machu Picchu' class (economy), Executive and First Class.

• Daily PeruRail train from Urubamba:  www.perurail.com also run one train from Urubamba to Machu Picchu at 06:50, journey time 2 hours 35 minutes, returning from Machu Picchu to Urubamba at 15:48.

First, buy your entry tickets to Machu Picchu Inca ruins at www.machupicchu.gob.pe...

These can be bought in advance online at www.machupicchu.gob.pe or in Cusco at the National Culture Institute (INC) at Avenida La Cultura 238, Condominio Huascar (in front of the Universitario Stadium).  Since July 2011, visitor numbers have been limited to 2,500 per day, about the expected number on a normal day in a busy month such as June, but less than the numbers previously visiting in the busiest peak months of July and August, so book ahead at www.machupicchu.gob.pe.  If you book in advance at www.machupicchu.gob.pe (recommended) you can now print your own ticket.  For lunch at Machu Picchu, you can eat lunch at The Sanctuary, at around US$33 it's expensive but saves you an hour travelling to Aguas Calientes and back for lunch in the town.

Then buy your train tickets online at www.perurail.com...

You can buy tickets for all three tourist trains from Poroy to Machu Picchu online at www.perurail.com.  Train tickets can also be bought from Perurail offices at Lima Airport on level 2 between gates 13 & 14, or in Cusco at Portal de Carnes 214, Plaza de Armas, Cusco, call (084) 260809 or (084) 260792.  Tickets for the alternative MachuPicchuTrain service from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu can be bought at www.machupicchutrain.com, and for the Inca Rail trains at www.incarail.com.

Where is the station at Machu Picchu?  How do you get to the Inca ruins?

The station referred to as 'Machu Picchu' is in fact located in the local town of Aguas Calientes, approximately 8 km (5 miles) from the ruined Inca city of Machu Picchu.  A bus link runs every 30 minutes from the station to the ruins costing US$24 return, payable in either US$ or local Peruvian currency.  To find out more about the Inca ruins, see www.peru-machu-picchu.com or www.machupicchu.org.

What's the journey like?

The Vistadome & Expedition trains (the latter previously known as the Backpacker) used to leave from Cusco's main San Pedro station on the Avenida Sol and spent half an hour climbing a series of Switchbacks or zig-zags up the mountainside to gain height.  Unfortunately, all trains now start from Poroy (the Hiram Bingham always started here), and so miss this interesting section.  After Poroy the train descends into the Sacred Valley and the Andean foothills, along the Urubamba river.  You'll pass colourful villages and herds of llamas.  Cusco to Machu Picchu is 107 km (67 miles), Poroy to Machu Picchu is 86km (54 miles).  The best views are on the left hand side of the train going up to Machu Picchu and on the right hand side returning, as the train follows the river and this is the side which the river is on, with the odd Inca ruin or terrace visible as the train runs along the Sacred Valley.  PeruRail won't assign seats on a particular side, but you can easily move over if there are empty seats after departure.

On the train to Machu Picchu...  This is a PeruRail shuttle train from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu. Courtesy of Tim Roberts		Viewing the mountain tops through the roof windows!  Photo courtesy of Tim Roberts

Above:  The Expedition train from Cusco to Machu Picchu running alongside the Urubamba River... Photo courtesy of Dennis Nichol		Above:  The Expedition train from Cusco approaches Machu Picchu.  Courtesy of 's'.

The PeruRail Vistadome train...

This is the mid-range option, a good choice.  The price includes complimentary snacks & non-alcoholic drinks served at your seat.

The Vistadome train at Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu).  Photo courtesy of  Nicola Herbert		Inside the Vistadome train.  Photo courtesy of www.andybtravels.com.

The deluxe Hiram Bingham train...

This is the luxury option, the most expensive of the trains to Machu Picchu and one in a category all by itself.  This luxurious train ride includes a gourmet brunch on the outward trip and dinner on the way back, a selection of Peruvian wine, cocktails, entertainment, bus connections, Machu Picchu entrance fee and a guided tour.

The Hiram Bingham, showing the open-air observation car at the rear. Photo courtesy of www.andybtravels.com.		Hiram Bingham restaurant. Photo www.andybtravels.com

An elegant dinner is served on the way back. Photo courtesy of www.andybtravels.com.		The Hiram Bingham train on its way to Machu Picchu. Photo courtesy of www.andybtravels.com.

Better than the train to Machu Picchu?

PeruRail also run two excellent trains between Cusco & Puno on Lake Titicaca, a scenic 385 km. 

• A daytime train called the Perurail Lake Titicaca train with seats, lounge, dining-car and open-air viewing platform.  An excellent way to travel, well worth the (relatively) small splurge of $200-$300.

• A new luxury cruise train called the Andean Explorer with private sleepers, lounge, dining-car.  It operates two slightly different itineraries in each direction, Spirit of the Water, Peruvian Highlands, Spirit of the Andres and Andean Plains & Islands.  This costs around $1000-$2,500 per person including private sleeper & meals.

The Andean Explorer cruise train is all-new, it started running in May 2017.  Before May 2017 there was only a daytime train called the Andean Explorer - the name Andean Explorer now applies to the new luxury cruise train, the old daytime Andean Explorer is now renamed the Perurail Lake Titicaca train.  Bear that in mind when looking at reviews or info from past years on the internet!

Cusco to Puno is 385 km (241 miles).

Fares & how to buy tickets...

Fares for Perurail Lake Titicaca train:  $202 - $346 per person in a seat, including meals.

Fares for Andean Explorer 1-night trips:  From $840 for one person or $960 for two people including lunch, dinner, breakfast & private en suite sleeper.

Fares for Andean Explorer 2-night trips:  From $2,140 for one person or $2,450 for two people including lunch, dinner, breakfast & private en suite sleeper.

How to buy tickets:  www.perurail.com for times, fares & online booking.

The Lake Titicaca train...

These photos show the original pre-2017 Andean Explorer, which has now been renamed the Perurail Lake Titicaca Train.  Feedback have been great - travellers say it's better than the train to Machu Picchu.

The Andean Explorer train from Cusco to Puno at La Raya. Photos courtesy of Discoverbyrail.com.		The bar-lounge in the Andean Explorer's tail-end observation car.

The pullman-style interior of the Andean Explorer.  Photo courtesy of Dennis Nichol		The Andean Explorer at La Raya, showing the observation car with open-air viewing deck.  Courtesy of Discoverbyrail.com.

Scenery along the railway between Cusco and Puno.  Although these shots show the railway, they weren't taken from the train.  Photos courtesy of Tim Roberts

The Andean Explorer , stopped at La Raya for a photo opportunity. Photo courtesy of Dennis Nichol		Ready for an elegant lunch... Photo courtesy of Discoverbyrail.com.

Lima to Huancayo...

The railway between Peru's capital Lima and Huancayo was once the highest railway in the world, until the Chinese built the line to Lhasa in Tibet.  The air-conditioned Tren de Sierra links Lima & Huancayo once or twice a month (outside the November-April rainy season, at least), with touristico (1st) class & clasico (2nd) class & bar car.  The Touristico fare is around 385 Soles ($125 or £80) and includes breakfast and complimentary tea, coffee, water and soft drinks.  Clasico fares start at 230 Soles ($75 or £50).  You can check departure dates & book tickets online at www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe.  In Lima, the train departs from Desamparados or Monserrate stations.  Bear in mind that the high altitude doesn't suit everyone!

The Tren de Sierra from Lima to Huancayo.  Photos courtesy of Lynne Quayle

The Tren de Sierra from Lima to Huancayo.  Photos courtesy of Lynne Quayle

Huancayo to Huancavelica...

Until some years ago, twice daily trains used to link Huancayo with Huancavelica.  The route then ceased for several years but it's reported that in 2015 this line is back in action. 

Traveller Thomas Gisler reports (September 2015): "The famous Huancayo - Huancavelica railway (the 'Macho Train') is back to service! It is scheduled three times a week, leaving Huancayo on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 06:30 and leaving Huancavelica on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 06:30. as well.  The duration of the trip is roughly six hours though it can easily last longer.  The journey can be done as a long day trip, taking local transport from Huancavelica back to Huancayo but an overnight stay in Huancavelica is much more convenient.

On the day of my visit there was a huge queue at the train station in Huancayo as early as 05.45.  There is no seat reservation or booking of tickets in advance in Huancayo, so be early at the train station to avoid disappointment!  Ticket prices are very cheap at 9 soles (less than $1) 2nd class and 13 soles in the buffet car, also referred to as "first class".  This is the last remaining 'non-tourist-train' in Peru, serving the locals and offering a unique train experience to the few tourists who make it there despite the lack of any information available online. The journey is very scenic as the train is following the valley and its river, passing through tiny little villages.  On arrival in Huancavelica it is possible to buy the ticket back to Huancayo for the following day, which is definitely a good idea.

The 2015 Huancayo to Huancavelica train.  Photos courtesy of Thomas Gisler.

Sponsored links...

Recommended guidebooks

To get the most out of your trip to Peru, you'll need a decent guidebook.  For the serious independent traveller this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide.  Both guides have everything you need - plenty of background historical and cultural information, plus practical information.

Buy Lonely Planet Peru online at Amazon.co.uk

Buy Rough Guide to South America online at Amazon.co.uk

Accommodation in Peru

Other hotel sites worth trying...

• www.tripadvisor.com is the place to find independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.

• www.booking.com is my own preferred hotel booking system (Hotels Combined being a search/comparison system).  It has a simple interface, a good selection in most countries worldwide, useful online customer reviews of each hotel, and decent prices, usually shown inclusive of unavoidable extras such as taxes (a pet hate of mine is systems that show one price, then charge you another!).

Backpacker hostels...

• www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

Flights...

Overland travel by train around South America is an essential part of the experience, so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground!  But if a long-haul flight is unavoidable to reach it in the first place, try  Virgin Atlantic who now fly from the UK to India, a good choice for both price and service.

Or use the Skyscanner search tool to compare flight prices & routes worldwide across 600 airlines...

Travel insurance & health card...

Take out decent travel insurance, it's essential...

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy myself.  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

In the UK, try Columbus Direct or use Confused.com to compare prices & policies from many different insurers.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65, see www.JustTravelCover.com - 10% discount with code seat61.

        If you live in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct's other websites.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get a spare credit card, designed for travel with no currency exchange loading & low or no ATM fees...

It costs nothing to take out an extra credit card.  If you keep it in a different part of your luggage so you're not left stranded if your wallet gets stolen, this is a form of extra travel insurance in itself.  In addition, some credit cards are significantly better for overseas travel than others.  Martin Lewis's www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-travel-money explains which UK credit cards have the lowest currency exchange commission loadings when you buy something overseas, and the lowest cash withdrawal fees when you use an ATM abroad.  Taking this advice can save you quite a lot on each trip compared to using your normal high-street bank credit card!

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