Scenery between Ljubljana & Belgrade as you travel to Serbia comfortably by train. No airports, no flights.

To Belgrade & Serbia by train...

It's easy to travel by train from London or Paris to Belgrade in Serbia, Skopje in North Macedonia or even Pristina in Kosovo.  Leave London mid-morning, travel via Paris and either Zagreb or Budapest, and you'll be in Belgrade by early evening the next day, with good-quality air-conditioned trains throughout.  It's safe, scenic & comfortable, too.  It can cost little more than flying, yet it's a memorable travel experience not a soulless flight.  This page explains how to plan, book and make a train journey from the UK to each of these countries.

COVID-19 update:  See COVID-19 updates & travel information.  Eurostar is running a much-reduced service between London & Paris/Brussels.  Between Paris/Brussels & Zagreb, trains are running close to normal.  However, the Zagreb-Belgrade train is currently still suspended.

Train times, fares & tickets...

  London to Belgrade & Novi Sad (Serbia)

  London to Skopje (North Macedonia) & Pristina (Kosovo)

  Belgrade station facilities

  How to book trains in Serbia

  Visiting the city of Belgrade

  Hotel Moskva - the recommended hotel in Belgrade

  Marshal Tito's private train

  Useful country information: visas, currency...

  Hotels & accommodation

Route map:  London to Serbia & the Balkans by train...

Useful country information

London to Belgrade & Serbia

Which route to choose?

It's easy, fast & comfortable to travel by train from the UK to Serbia, and there's usually a choice of routes and departures.  However, long-term work to upgrade the Budapest-Belgrade line means this route is blocked in 2021 and possibly beyond, so currently only the route via Zagreb-Belgrade remains open.  By all means stop off on the way, each train is ticketed separately so it costs no more to spend an extra day in Paris or Munich or Zagreb en route.

• Option 1 is the fastest.  You leave London mid-morning on day 1 by Eurostar & TGV to Munich, travel overnight on the excellent Croatian sleeper train to Zagreb, then take a comfortable express train from Zagreb to Belgrade arriving in the early evening on day 2.

• Option 2 is similar to option 1, but via Zurich.  You take a morning Eurostar to Paris, a high-speed TGV-Lyria to Zurich, then the excellent Croatian sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb, for an onward train to Belgrade on day 2.

• Option 2 is a 3-day all-daytime journey with 2 overnight hotel stops, one in Munich & one in Zagreb.  It takes longer than the other options, but some people prefer leisurely daytime journeys through great scenery and sleeping in hotels to using a sleeper train.  Again, high-quality trains throughout.

• The route via Italy & the Adriatic ferry to Bar in Montenegro is covered in the London to Montenegro page.

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Option 1:  London to Belgrade via Paris, Munich & Zagreb...

This is the fastest option, taking a high-speed TGV from Paris to Munich, the excellent Croatian sleeper train from Munich to Zagreb then a train to Belgrade.

London ► Belgrade

• Step 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:22 on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:57.  On Saturdays, leave London St Pancras at 09:31 arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 12:57.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:55 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Munich Hbf 21:36.  On Saturdays leave Paris Gare de l'Est at 13:55, change at Stuttgart Hbf and arrive Munich Hbf 19:27. 

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views.  Times may vary, so check for your date at www.bahn.de.

  Tip:  There's time for dinner In Munich while waiting for the sleeper to Zagreb, for local Bavarian food and a beer or two I recommend the Augustiner Keller (www.augustinerkeller.de) at Arnulfstrasse 52, to the north side of Munich Hbf.  See walking map.

• Day 1, travel from Munich to Zagreb on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Munich Hbf at 23:20 arriving Zagreb at 08:32 next morning (day 2).

  The Lisinski has a smart modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.  In Zagreb, you have time for a late breakfast or a quick wander around the old town.

• Day 2, travel from Zagreb to Belgrade on the daily train, leaving Zagreb at 11:04 arriving Novi Beograd 18:04 & Belgrade Centar at 18:12.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

  This train has air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats (no 1st class).  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.

  Tip:  Although Belgrade Centar is slightly closer to the city centre, you have to rely on a single bus line.  Trams 7 & 9 link Novi Beograd station with the site of the now-defunct old Belgrade station on the edge of the old city every 5-10 minutes so you may prefer to get off at Novi Beograd and take a tram, see the Belgrade station page for more information.

Belgrade ► London

• Day 1, travel from Belgrade to Zagreb on the daily train, leaving Belgrade Centar station at 10:05 & Novi Beograd at 10:19 arriving Zagreb 18:13.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

  This train has two air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats.  There's no 1st class.  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.  You've time for dinner in Zagreb.

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Munich on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Zagreb at 21:27 & arriving Munich Hbf at 06:29 next morning.

  The Lisinski has a modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Stuttgart by InterCity train, leaving Munich Hbf at 07:46 & arriving Stuttgart at 09:59.  On some Sundays you'll need to leave earlier, at 07:28 by ICE train arriving Stuttgart at 09:45.  Always allow at least 30 minutes for connection in Stuttgart.

• Day 2, travel from Stuttgart to Paris by ICE train, leaving Stuttgart at 10:52 & arriving Paris Gare de l'Est at 14:05.

  The high-speed ICE train has a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 2, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, normally leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 17:03 & arriving London St Pancras at 18:32.

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

1. London to Paris      by Eurostar...	From £52 one-way, £78 return 2nd class.  From £115 one-way, £199 return 1st class.  Child fares
2. Paris to Munich       by TGV Duplex...	From €39 each way in 2nd class  From €59 each way in 1st class.  Fares work like air fares, cheap in advance, expensive on the day.
3. Munich to Zagreb  on the Lisinski...	In a seat:	In a couchette		In the sleeping-car
		6-berth	4-berth	3-berth	2-berth	single
Saver fare one-way, from:	€29	€49	€59	€69	€89	€129
Saver fare return, from:	€58	€98	€118	€138	€178	€258
Saver fare = Advance-purchase fare, price varies, no refunds, no changes to travel plans. Berths are sold individually, so one ticket means one bed.  The other beds in your compartment will be sold to other passengers.  For sole occupancy, simply book 1 ticket in a 1-berth sleeper or 2 tickets in a 2-berth sleeper or 4 tickets in a 4-berth couchette & so on.
3. Zagreb to Belgrade       by day train...	Around £44 each way if bought by phone in the UK.  Around €30 each way if bought at the station in Zagreb.  Around 188 Croatian kuna if bought on board the train.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, book from London to Munich at www.thetrainline.com.  Who are Thetrainline.com?

  Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.

  Booking opens up to 180 days ahead for Eurostar, up to 120 days ahead for Paris-Munich, and usually 90 days ahead for Munich-Zagreb, see more information about when bookings open.  I recommend waiting until onward trains have opened for booking and times are confirmed before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.

  Tip:  Click via/avoid and enter Paris as a via station to limit the search to routes via Paris. 

  Tip:  You can book from London to Munich all in one go if you like, but for more control over the connection in Paris, I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Munich and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains.  That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars have cheaper prices.

  Tip:  If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return.  All other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!

  Tip:  After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice about buying domestic tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.

• Step 2, book the sleeper train from Munich to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com.

  Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Munich-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket.

• Step 3, Zagreb to Belgrade cannot be booked online, buy at the station in Zagreb, this won't be a problem.

• Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Munich at the German Railways website www.bahn.de, then Munich to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  This is more work on multiple websites, the prices should be the same, but no booking fees.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• It's better to book online,  But if you want to book by phone, call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, small booking fee.  Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).

Let Railbookers arrange it as a package...

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a tour or holiday for you as a package, including train travel, hotels & transfers.  On their website you'll find a range of suggested tours & holidays which can be varied or customised to your requirements.  As you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens to one part of the itinerary such as a strike or delay.

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk. 

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

    Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

    Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website. 

    New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in (10-minutes for business premier) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Gare du Nord station guide.

A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		1st class:  Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex...   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart & Munich.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.  Munich Hbf station guide.

TGV Duplex at Paris Est. These impressive 320 km/h double-deck trains link Paris & Munich, a relaxing journey with reading book & glass of wine.  Book an upstairs seat for the best views...

Cafe-bar on upper deck in car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.		2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

1st class on upper deck, a 'club duo' on the left, a 'club quatre' on the right.  360º photo.		A TGV Duplex.  The red near the door indicates 1st class, pale green indicates 2nd class.

3. Munich to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski...  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.

Above, the air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car from Munich to Zagreb is boarding on platform 12 at Munich Hbf.  It has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as 1, 2 or 3 berth, with toilets at the end of the corridor.  Compartments convert to a private sitting room for evening or morning use.  A light breakfast is included in the sleeper fare. The Croatian couchette car is the next vehicle to the right, also modern & air-conditioned with 4 & 6 bunk compartments, ideal for families.  Couchettes convert from bunks to seats for evening or morning use.

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper.		Set up as a single-berth.		4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360º photo.

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava...

4. Zagreb to Belgrade by train...

This is a comfortable air-conditioned Serbian train, with modern 2nd class seats - there's no 1st class.  There's also no restaurant car, so take a picnic and some beer or wine with you.  Below right, the Belgrade to Zagreb train.  Below left, 2nd class seats.

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Option 2:  London to Belgrade via Paris, Zurich & Zagreb...

This is similar to option 1, but instead of TGV to Munich and the Croatian sleeper train from Munich to Zagreb, you taka a TGV-Lyria to Zurich and the Croatian sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb.  There are two minor disadvantages of this option compared to option 1:  First, you need to cross Paris by taxi or metro from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon, whereas in option 1 it's just a 7 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est next door.  Second, with this option you leave London around the same time, but arrive in Zagreb a couple of hours later - though this matters little when you're catching the onward train to Belgrade.  There's one advantage, you can board the sleeper in Zurich much earlier, for a 20:40 departure, whereas in Munich you have to wait up for a late-night 23:20 departure.  There's also lovely scenery in the morning on the way to Zagreb along the Sava river, you won't regret those extra 2 hours!

London ► Belgrade

• Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 07:55 Mondays-Fridays or 07:52 Saturdays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 11:17.  There's currently no sufficiently early departure on Sundays.

  Cross Paris by metro or taxi to the Gare de Lyon, 2 stops on RER line D.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria, leaving Paris Gare de Lyon at 12:22 arriving Zurich HB at 16:26.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV-Lyria has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi, see more about TGV-Lyria.

  In Zurich, there's time for dinner while waiting for the sleeper, I recommend steak-frites and a beer at the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB, see other restaurant suggestions.

• Day 1, travel from Zurich to Zagreb by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zurich HB at 20:40 and arriving in Zagreb at 10:43 next morning.

  The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Day 2, travel from Zagreb to Belgrade on the daily train, leaving Zagreb at 11:04 arriving Novi Beograd 18:04 & Belgrade Centar at 18:12.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

  This train has air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats (no 1st class).  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.

  Tip:  Although Belgrade Centar is slightly closer to the city centre, you have to rely on a single bus line.  Trams 7 & 9 link Novi Beograd station with the site of the now-defunct old Belgrade station on the edge of the old city every 5-10 minutes so you may prefer to get off at Novi Beograd and take a tram, see the Belgrade station page for more information.

Belgrade ► London

• Day 1, travel from Belgrade to Zagreb on the daily train, leaving Belgrade Centar station at 10:05 & Novi Beograd 10:19, arriving Zagreb 18:13.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

  This train has two air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats.  There's no 1st class.  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.  The train is intended to connect into the sleeper to Zurich.

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Zurich by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zagreb at 18:38 and arriving in Zurich HB at 09:20 next morning.

  The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, book from London to Zurich at www.thetrainline.com. 

  Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets together in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem.  There's a small booking fee.  Who are Thetrainline.com?

  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead for Eurostar, up to 4 months ahead for Paris-Zurich, and up to 6 months ahead for the Zurich-Zagreb sleeper, see more information about when bookings open.  I recommend waiting until all 3 trains have opened for booking and times are confirmed before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.

  Tip:  Click via/avoid and enter Paris as a via station to limit the search to routes via Paris.

  Tip:  You can book from London to Zurich all in one go if you like, but for more control over the connection in Paris, I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Zurich and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains.  That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars have cheaper prices.

  Tip:  If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return.  All other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!

  Tip:  After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice about buying domestic tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.

• Step 2, book the sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com, add to basket & check out.

  Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Zurich-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes. You print your own ticket.

• Step 3, Zagreb to Belgrade cannot be booked online, buy at the station in Zagreb or even on board the train, this won't be a problem.

• Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Zurich at the French Railways website en.oui.sncf, then Zurich to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  This is more work on multiple websites and sometimes more fiddly, prices should be the same, but no booking fees.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• If you'd prefer to book all your tickets together by phone, just call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, small booking fee.

• Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Standard Premier & Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in (10-minutes for business premier) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide.  How to cross Paris by metro or taxi.

A Eurostar e320 train at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		Standard Premier/Business Premier.  Larger photo.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria...

All TGV-Lyria trains are now 320km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex like the one shown below.  TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes:  Standard class (2nd), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with hot meal & drinks included in the fare).  There's a cafe-bar car selling drinks & snacks.  There are power points for mobiles & laptops at all seats in all classes.  Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways.  More information about TGV-Lyria.

TGV-Lyria TGV Duplex train at Paris Gare de Lyon. More information about TGV-Lyria

Cafe-bar on upper deck car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes...		2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

1st class on the upper deck, with a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right. 360º photo.		A TGV-Lyria for Geneva, boarding at Paris Gare de Lyon.  You enter on the lower deck, with 9 stairs up to top deck.

3. Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper train...  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Zurich before boarding at a local restaurant, try the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB.

Croatian sleeping-car:  The modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car from Zurich to Zagreb has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as a 1, 2 or 3 berth room, with toilets at the end of the corridor.  Above left, the sleeper arrived at Zagreb.  See larger sleeper photo.

The couchette car has modern air-conditioned 6-berth and 4-berth compartments.  Above right, the westbound sleeper train boarding at Zagreb. See 360º photo.

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava...

4. Zagreb to Belgrade by train...

This is a comfortable air-conditioned Serbian train, with modern 2nd class seats - there's no 1st class.  There's also no restaurant car, so take a picnic and some beer or wine with you.  Below right, the Belgrade to Zagreb train about to leave Belgrade.  Below left, 2nd class seats.

Option 3:  London to Belgrade by daytime trains with hotel stops...

This takes longer than using a time-effective sleeper train, 3 days/2 nights instead of 2 days/1 night, but if you prefer daytime scenery and hotels to sleeper trains this is the route for you, London to Belgrade with overnight stops in Munich and Zagreb.

London ► Belgrade

• Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:22 on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:57.  On Saturdays, leave London St Pancras at 12:24 arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 15:47.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Munich TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:55 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Munich Hbf 21:36.

  On Saturdays, you leave Paris at 17:55 arriving Munich Hbf at 23:29, but if you'd prefer an earlier arrival in Munich you can also leave London at 09:31 and connect with a TGV Duplex leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 13:55 for Stuttgart Hbf, change there for Munich Hbf arriving 19:27.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views.  Times may vary, so check for your date at www.bahn.de.

  Alternatively, you can travel from London to Munich by Eurostar & ICE train via Brussels & Cologne, see the London to Germany page.

• Stay overnight in Munich.  The Sofitel Munich Beyerpost, Eden Hotel Wolff, or (budget) Pension Locarno are all next to the station with good reviews.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Zagreb, leaving Munich Hbf at 08:17 by swish air-conditioned Austrian railjet train and arriving in Villach, near the Austrian-Slovenian border, at 12:43.  A restaurant car is available for breakfast, or in 1st & business class food and drink orders are taken at your seat.  At Villach it's a simple cross-platform change onto the waiting Slovenian/Croatian/Serbian EuroCity train Sava, to Zagreb, leaving Villach at 12:53 and arriving Zagreb at 17:07.

• Stay overnight in Zagreb.  I suggest the historic Esplanade Hotel, Palace Hotel or Central Hotel, all near the station with good reviews.

• Day 3, travel from Zagreb to Belgrade on the daily train, leaving Zagreb at 11:04 arriving Novi Beograd 18:04 & Belgrade Centar at 18:12.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

  This train has air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats (no 1st class).  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.

  Tip:  Although Belgrade Centar is slightly closer to the city centre, you have to rely on a single bus line.  Trams 7 & 9 link Novi Beograd station with the site of the now-defunct old Belgrade station on the edge of the old city every 5-10 minutes so you may prefer to get off at Novi Beograd and take a tram, see Belgrade station page for more information.

Belgrade  ► London

• Day 1, travel from Belgrade to Zagreb on the daily train, leaving Belgrade Centar station at 10:05 & Novi Beograd at 10:19 arriving Zagreb 18:13.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

  This train has two air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats.  There's no 1st class.  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.

• Stay overnight in Zagreb.  I suggest the historic Esplanade Hotel, Palace Hotel or Central Hotel, all near the station with good reviews.

• Day 2, travel from Zagreb to Munich, leaving Zagreb at 12:47 by air-conditioned InterCity train Sava, you need to make a simple cross-platform change of train at Villach (arrive 17:09, depart 17:16) onto a smart Austrian railjet train and you arrive at Munich Hbf at 21:41.  Enjoy the lovely scenery along the Sava River.

  Alternatively, you can take the earlier direct EuroCity train leaving Zagreb at 07:03 and arriving Munich Hbf at 15:41, with no need to switch trains in Villach.  This is an Austrian train with 6-seater compartments in both 1st & 2nd class, take your own provisions as there's no restaurant or buffet car until the train leaves Villach at 11:16.  Indeed, I'd say this is the best option as on occasion the afternoon Sava has been known to miss its connection in Villach.

• Stay overnight in Munich.  I suggest the Sofitel Munich Beyerpost or Eden Hotel Wolff, or (budget) the Pension Locarno, all next to the station with good reviews.

• Day 3, travel from Munich to Paris by TGV Duplex, leaving Munich Hbf at 06:46 & arriving Paris Gare de l'Est at 12:31.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views, see this video.  Times may vary, so check your date at www.bahn.de.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, normally leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 15:03, arriving London St Pancras at 16:39.

  If you'd prefer a leisurely breakfast & later departure from Munich there are various later options, see the London to Germany page.

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £115 one-way, £199 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Munich by TGV starts at €39 each way in 2nd class or €69 in 1st class.

• Munich to Zagreb starts at €37.90 each way in 2nd class or €56.90 in 1st class.

• Zagreb to Belgrade is approximately €25 each way if bought at the station in Zagreb or  188 Croatian kuna (€25) if bought on board the train.

• The Zagreb to Belgrade fare is fixed-price, but the other fares vary like air fares, rising as departure date approaches, so book in advance.

How to buy tickets...

• The easiest and cheapest way to book this journey is online, as there's no booking fees and all the cheap deals are there for you to see.  Booking for Eurostar & TGV opens up to 6 months ahead, the Munich-Zagreb sleeper only opens 3 months ahead.  You cannot book before booking opens.

• Step 1, book the TGV from Paris to Munich at the German Railways website www.bahn.de.  You print your own ticket.  I strongly recommend registering when prompted, as you can then log in from any computer and check or re-print your tickets.

• Step 2, still on www.bahn.de, book your Munich to Zagreb train, looking for a cheap Sparpreis fare and print your own ticket.

• Step 3, now book the London-Paris Eurostar at www.eurostar.com.  You book online and print your own ticket.  I recommend confirming the timings of the Paris-Munich train before booking a suitable Eurostar connection, which is this is step 3 not step 1.  Make sure you allow at least 60 minutes in Paris between trains.

• Step 4, the Zagreb to Belgrade train cannot be booked online, but is easy to book at the station in Zagreb, which is the cheapest way to do it.  There are always places available, it cannot sell out.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• It's better to book online, but if you want to book by phone, call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).  Other agencies selling European tickets by phone.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in (10-minutes for business premier) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Gare du Nord station guide.

A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		1st class:  Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex...   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart & Munich.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.  Munich Hbf station guide.

TGV Duplex at Paris Est. These impressive 320 km/h double-deck trains link Paris with Nice, Marseille, Munich, Barcelona & Switzerland...

Cafe-bar on upper deck in car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.		2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

1st class on upper deck, a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right.  360º photo.		A TGV Duplex.  The red near the door indicates 1st class, pale green indicates 2nd class.

3. Munich to Zagreb by daytime train...

Now for a real treat.  Sit back with a glass of red, catch up on your reading and enjoy the views...  This is actually two trains, a smart modern Austrian Railjet train with restaurant car from Munich to Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, then a comfortable air-conditioned Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train from Villach to Ljubljana and Zagreb.  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  You make a quick & easy change of train across the platform at Villach, the Croatian train will be waiting for this connection.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  Beyond Ljubljana, the train continues to follow the river Sava, passing through a beautiful river gorge between mountains, a real treat.  Beyond Zidani Most the valley widens into a plain, and you cross the border into Croatia at Dobova and soon arrive in Zagreb's impressive central station, a palace of a building, right in the centre of the city.

A railjet about to leave Munich Hbf...

Railjet is Austrian Railways premier train...  More photos & information about Railjet trains		Economy class on railjet, in open saloons with large windows.  Some seats around tables, most unidirectional.

Railjet first class, with black leather seats...		Business class...		The restaurant...

Through the Austrian Alps...  Clinging to the mountainside high in the Austrian Alps, the railjet snakes along between snow-capped mountains, absolutely wonderful.  There's a quick cross-platform change of train at Villach onto a Slovenian & Croatian train called the Sava...

...and along the Sava river in Slovenia.  Now across the border in Slovenia, the EuroCity train runs along the pretty River Sava all the way to Ljubljana and Zagreb...		Comfortable seats:  The 2nd class seats in the Slovenian cars are arranged 2+1 abreast, the same as 1st class!

More lovely scenery along the Sava between Ljubljana & Zagreb...

The EuroCity train Sava, arrived at Zagreb.		More scenery along the Sava between Ljubljana & Zagreb.

4. Zagreb to Belgrade by train...

This is a comfortable air-conditioned Serbian train, with modern 2nd class seats - there's no 1st class.  There's also no restaurant car, so take a picnic and some beer or wine with you.  Below right, the Belgrade to Zagreb train about to leave Belgrade.  Below left, 2nd class seats.

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London to Macedonia & Kosovo

London ► Skopje & Pristina

• Step 1, travel from London to Belgrade using any of the options shown in the London to Belgrade section above.

• Step 2, travel from Belgrade to Nis & Skopje by overnight train leaving Belgrade Centar station at 18:21, calling at Niš at 23:06 and arriving in Skopje at 04:25 next morning.  A Macedonian 6-berth couchette car is available with bedding provided, see the photos below.  The final destination of this train is Thessaloniki in Greece.

  You can check train times at http://bahn.hafas.de although this doesn't always take into account every recent change.

  Tip:  If anything affects the running of the train (remembering that this train must be booked locally, don't expect everything to be online), the last resort is 6h15 in a bus, try Omio.com (formerly GoEuro.com).

  IMPORTANT UPDATE:  The Belgrade-Skopje (-Thessaloniki) train now only runs June-September, and is still suspended in any case due to Covid-19. There are no trains at all between Belgrade & Skopje at other times.  There may be regular buses, details not known.

• Step 3, there is one train a day between Skopje & Pristina in Kosovo, departing Skopje at 16:20 and arriving Pristina 19:20.  Expect this train to be one ancient ex-Norwegian diesel and two elderly carriages, and it may now involve a change of train at the border.  The times are on www.trainkos.com but only in the shqip language version - Skopje = Shkup.

Pristina & Skopje ► London

• Step 1, there is one train a day between Pristina & Skopje, leaving Pristina at 07:10 and arriving Skopje at 09:52.  Expect this train to be one ancient ex-Norwegian diesel and two elderly carriages and it may now involve a change of train at the border.  Spend the day in Skopje and take the night train to Belgrade, as shown below.  The times are on www.trainkos.com but only in the shqip language version - Skopje = Shkup.

• Step 2, travel from Skopje to Belgrade by train, leaving Skopje at 22:19 calling at Nis at 03:40 and arriving Belgrade Centar station at 08:00 next morning.  The train has a Macedonian 6-berth couchette car, bedding is provided, see the photos below.  Expect an arrival an hour or so late.

  IMPORTANT UPDATE:  The (Thessaloniki-) Skopje-Belgrade train now only runs June-September, and is still suspended in any case due to Covid-19.  There are no trains at all between Skopje & Belgrade at other times.  There may be regular buses, details not known.

• Step 3, travel from Belgrade to London as shown above.  You can leave Belgrade in the morning and arrive London in the evening of the following day.

Fares...

• See the London-Belgrade section above for fares to Belgrade.

• Belgrade to Skopje costs around £29 each way 2nd class if bought in the UK.  Bought locally, it costs around 2,700 dinars (€24 or £21).

• Skopje to Pristina bought locally costs about €4.25 one-way.

Belgrade to Skopje by overnight train...

The Belgrade-Skopje-Thessaloniki overnight train has a Macedonian couchette car, though no sleeper.  But it's comfortable enough and seldom full, see the photos below, courtesy of traveller Tom Whitehead.  Clean sheets, pillow and blanket are provided.  You'll probably find fellow travellers from Germany, the Netherlands, Australia or Britain on board.

Skopje to Pristina by train...

Traveller Jeroen van Marle reports:  "I took the train from Priština in Kosovo to Skopje. Absolutely freezing cold as there was no heating, but the ride was lovely, very scenic compared to the highway blight that the buses pass."  Latest reports in autumn 2017 suggests that Kosovan Railways has become insolvent and this train is cancelled.

The morning train waits to leave Pristina.  Photo courtesy of Jeroen van Marle		At the border, where locomotives are changed.  Photo courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

The train uses old Norwegian coaches.  Photo courtesy of Jeroen van Marle		The train from Pristina, arrived at Skopje station.  Photo courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

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Booking trains in Serbia

Making reservations from outside Serbia...

The Serbian Railways reservation system is linked to the western European railway computer reservation systems, so seat, couchette or sleeper reservations can be made on domestic or international trains starting in Belgrade from most reservation offices or train booking agencies across Europe, including UK European rail booking agencies.  In practice however, the computer link sometimes goes down, and in any case agencies outside Serbia can only sell full-price 'TCV' international-tariff tickets, they can't sell you the various cheap fares that are available directly from Serbian Railways themselves.

Option 1, buy tickets at the station...

One option is simply to buy tickets when you reach Belgrade, at the ticket office.  There is hardly ever a problem doing this, there are almost always places available on all trains, even on the day.

Option 2, buy tickets via the excellent Mr Popovic...

To be 100% sure rather than 95%, you can pre-book international tickets starting in Belgrade at local prices by emailing the highly-recommended Mr Popovic, who used to run the Wasteels office at Belgrade station.  Although Belgrade's Wasteels office has closed, Mr Popovic can still be contacted and you can still buy tickets through him, he'll either meet you at the station to deliver your tickets or leave them for collection at the Western Union kiosk at the old Belgrade station.  He takes credit card payment by email, you'll be asked to sign the credit card slip when you collect tickets. 

Tip:  Please don't bother emailing him until booking opens 60 days before departure, he can't do anything until booking opens, obviously.  Mr Popovic may also be able to arrange tickets starting in Sofia, if given sufficient notice, for collection in Belgrade.  His contact details are:

Putovanja Wasteels
E-mail: wasteels@eunet.rs

Phone: +381 11 265 8868

Mr Popovic speaks excellent English and comes highly recommended, indeed I have met him personally, twice now.  He will be glad to make train reservations for you and book tickets, and even give you advice on visiting Belgrade.

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European Rail Timetable & maps

The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted.  See an extract from the map.  Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or for £9.67 at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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Guidebooks

To get the most from your visit, you should take a good guidebook - even in the age of the internet.  For the independent traveller, I think this means one of two guidebooks, either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide.  Both series are excellent.  You can buy a guide covering all the countries in Eastern Europe.  Lonely Planet Eastern Europe.

Click to buy online at Amazon...

 

 

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Hotels in Belgrade & Balkans

Recommended hotel in Belgrade:  Hotel Moskva...

Look no further for a hotel in Belgrade than the historic Hotel Moskva.  Opened in 1906, anyone who is anyone who has visited Belgrade has stayed here, from British author Graham Green to Ethiopian emperor Haile Salassie.  It served as Gestapo Headquarters in 1941-44, although fortunately no trace of these former occupants remains.  It's right in the centre of Belgrade at the end of the pedestrianised main street that leads to Belgrade fortress.  It was only 10 minutes walk (admittedly uphill) from Belgrade's old station, but now a taxi ride from Belgrade Centar station or Topcider.  The hotel has immaculate rooms, friendly staff and a good cooked breakfast.  Book the Hotel Moskva.

My favourite hotel search site: www.booking.com www.booking.com is my favourite hotel booking site and I generally prefer booking my hotels all in one place here.  You can usually book with free cancellation - this allows you to confirm your accommodation at no risk before train booking opens.  It also means you can hold accommodation while you finalise your itinerary, and alter your plans as they evolve - a feature I use all the time when putting a trip together.  I never book hotels non-refundably.  I have also come to trust their review scores - you won't be disappointed with anything over 8.0. Tip:  It can pay to compare prices across multiple hotel sites:  HotelsCombined.com is a price comparison site which compares hotel prices on Booking.com, Hotels.com, Expedia, Accor, Agoda and many others.  Though if there's not much in it, I prefer keeping all my bookings together in one place at www.booking.com.

Other hotel sites worth trying...

www.tripadvisor.com is the place to find independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.

Backpacker hostels...

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & VPN

Always take out travel insurance...

You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer.  It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit.  These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I use an annual policy myself.  Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.

www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection & covers you even if the FCDO advises against non-essential travel.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65, see www.JustTravelCover.com - 10% discount with code seat61.

You can use www.confused.com to compare prices & policy features across major insurance companies.

        If you live in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get a Curve card to save on foreign transaction fees...

Banks often give a poor exchange rate, then charge a currency conversion fee as well.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The balance goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to most European addresses including the UK.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, just like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance onto whichever of your debit or credit cards you choose.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I use a Curve Blue card myself - I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I'm recommending it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card - they'll give you £5 cashback through that link, too.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  VPNs & why you need one explained...

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN means your connection to the internet is encrypted & always secure, even using unsecured WiFi.  In countries such as China where access to Twitter & Facebook is restricted, a VPN gets around these restrictions.  And lastly, you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geographic restrictions which some websites apply - for example one booking site charges a booking fee to non-European visitors but none to European visitors, so if you're not located in Europe you can avoid this fee by browsing with a UK IP address using a VPN.  VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy and I use it myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription, and I get a small commission to help support this site.

 

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