Scenery between Ljubljana & Belgrade as you travel to Serbia comfortably by train. No airports, no flights.

To Belgrade & Serbia by train...

You can travel by train from London or Paris to Belgrade in Serbia, Skopje in North Macedonia or even Pristina in Kosovo.  Leave London mid-morning, travel via Paris and Zagreb and you'll be in Belgrade by early evening the next day, with good-quality air-conditioned trains throughout.  It's safe, scenic & comfortable, too.  It can cost little more than flying, yet it's a memorable travel experience not a soulless flight.  This page explains how to plan, book and make a train journey from the UK to each of these countries.

IMPORTANT UPDATE 2023:  The Zagreb-Belgrade train is currently still suspended, even after the pandemic has ended.  With the Budapest-Belgrade route also suspended for rebuilding until 2025, Serbia is now cut off.  You can reach Budapest or Zagreb, but there are currently no trains at all into Serbia.

Train times, fares & tickets

  London to Belgrade & Novi Sad (Serbia)

  London to Skopje (North Macedonia) & Pristina (Kosovo)

  Belgrade station facilities

  How to book trains in Serbia

  Visiting the city of Belgrade

  Hotel Moskva - the recommended hotel in Belgrade

  Marshal Tito's private train

  Useful country information: visas, currency...

  Hotels & accommodation

Route map

Useful country information

Which route to choose?

It's easy, fast & comfortable to travel by train from the UK to Serbia, and there's usually a choice of routes and departures.  However, long-term work to upgrade the Budapest-Belgrade line means this route is blocked in 2021 and possibly beyond, so currently only the route via Zagreb-Belgrade remains open.  By all means stop off on the way, each train is ticketed separately so it costs no more to spend an extra day in Paris or Munich or Zagreb en route.

• Option 1 is the fastest.  You leave London in the morning on day 1 by Eurostar & TGV to Stuttgart, travel overnight on the excellent Croatian sleeper train to Zagreb, then take a comfortable train from Zagreb to Belgrade arriving in the early evening on day 2.

• Option 2 is similar to option 1, but via Zurich.  You take a morning Eurostar to Paris, a high-speed TGV-Lyria to Zurich, then the excellent Croatian sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb, for an onward train to Belgrade on day 2.

• Option 2 is a 3-day all-daytime journey with 2 overnight hotel stops, one in Munich & one in Zagreb.  It takes longer than the other options, but some people prefer leisurely daytime journeys through great scenery and sleeping in hotels to using a sleeper train.  Again, high-quality trains throughout.

• The route via Italy & the Adriatic ferry to Bar in Montenegro is covered in the London to Montenegro page.

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Option 1:  London to Belgrade via Paris, Stuttgart & Zagreb

This is the fastest option, taking a high-speed TGV from Paris to Stuttgart, the excellent Croatian sleeper train from Stuttgart to Zagreb then a train to Belgrade.

London ► Belgrade

• Step 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:22 on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:57.  On Saturdays, leave London St Pancras at 09:24 arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 12:57.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Step 2, travel from Paris to Stuttgart by TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:55 Monday-Friday & Sunday arriving Stuttgart Hbf 19:04.  On Saturdays, leave Paris Gare de l'Est at 13:55 arriving Stuttgart Hbf 17:04.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views.  Times may vary, so check your date at www.bahn.de.

• Step 3, travel from Stuttgart to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Stuttgart Hbf at 20:29 and arriving Zagreb 10:39.

  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Step 4, travel from Zagreb to Belgrade on the daily train, leaving Zagreb at 11:04 arriving Novi Beograd 18:04 & Belgrade Centar at 18:12.

  This train has air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats (no 1st class).  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

  Tip:  Although Belgrade Centar is slightly closer to the city centre, you have to rely on a single bus line.  Trams 7 & 9 link Novi Beograd station with the site of the now-defunct old Belgrade station on the edge of the old city every 5-10 minutes so you may prefer to get off at Novi Beograd and take a tram, see the Belgrade station page for more information.

Belgrade ► London

• Day 1, travel from Belgrade to Zagreb on the daily train, leaving Belgrade Centar station at 10:05 & Novi Beograd at 10:19 arriving Zagreb 18:13.

  This train has two air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats.  There's no 1st class.  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.  You've time for dinner in Zagreb.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Munich or Stuttgart by sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Zagreb at 19:38 & arriving Stuttgart Hbf 08:37.

  The Lisinski has a modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, book from London to Stuttgart at www.thetrainline.com.  Who are Thetrainline.com?

  Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.

  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead for Eurostar, up to 4 months ahead for Paris-Stuttgart, and usually 90 days ahead for Stuttgart-Zagreb, see more information about when train bookings open.  I recommend waiting until onward trains have opened for booking and times are confirmed before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.

  Tip:  Click via/avoid and enter Paris as a via station to limit the search to routes via Paris. 

  Tip:  You can book from London to Stuttgart all in one go if you like, but for more control over the connection in Paris, I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Stuttgart and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains.  That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars have cheaper prices.

  Tip:  If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return.  All other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!

  Tip:  After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice about buying domestic tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.

• Step 2, book the sleeper train from Stuttgart to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com.

  Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket.

• Step 3, Zagreb to Belgrade cannot be booked online, buy at the station in Zagreb or on the train, this won't be a problem.

• Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Stuttgart at the German Railways website www.bahn.de, then Stuttgart to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  This is more work on multiple websites, the prices should be the same, but no booking fees.

How to buy tickets by phone

• It's better to book online,  But if you want to book by phone, call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, small booking fee.  Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).

Let Railbookers arrange it as a package

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a tour or holiday for you as a package, including train travel, hotels & transfers.  On their website you'll find a range of suggested tours & holidays which can be varied or customised to your requirements.  As you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens to one part of the itinerary such as a strike or delay.

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website

    Canada call 1-855-882-2910, see website

    Australia call 1300 971 526, see website

    New Zealand call 0800 000 554 or see website

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Gare du Nord station guide.

A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		1st class:  Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Stuttgart by TGV Duplex...   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.

TGV Duplex at Paris Est. These impressive 320 km/h double-deck trains link Paris & Stuttgart, a relaxing journey with reading book & glass of wine.  Book an upstairs seat for the best views...

Cafe-bar on upper deck in car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.		2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

1st class on upper deck, a 'club duo' on the left, a 'club quatre' on the right.  360º photo.		A TGV Duplex.  The 1 near the door indicates 1st class, a 2 indicates 2nd class.

3. Stuttgart to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski...  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.

Above, the air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car to Zagreb is boarding at Munich Hbf.  It has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as 1, 2 or 3 berth, with toilets at the end of the corridor.  Compartments convert to a private sitting room for evening or morning use.  A light breakfast is included in the sleeper fare. The Croatian couchette car is the next vehicle to the right, also modern & air-conditioned with 4 & 6 bunk compartments, ideal for families.  Couchettes convert from bunks to seats for evening or morning use.

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper.		Set up as a single-berth.		4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360º photo.

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava...

4. Zagreb to Belgrade by train...

This is a comfortable air-conditioned Serbian train, with modern 2nd class seats - there's no 1st class.  There's also no restaurant car, so take a picnic and some beer or wine with you.  Below right, the Belgrade to Zagreb train.  Below left, 2nd class seats.

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Option 2:  London to Belgrade via Paris, Zurich & Zagreb

This is similar to option 1, but instead of TGV to Stuttgart and the Croatian sleeper train from Stuttgart to Zagreb, you taka a TGV-Lyria to Zurich and the Croatian sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb.  There are two minor disadvantages compared to option 1:  First, departure from London is a little earlier in the morning with an identical arrival in Belgrade.  Second, you need to cross Paris by taxi or metro from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon, whereas in option 1 it's just a 7 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est next door.  This option also has lovely scenery in the morning on the way to Zagreb along the Sava river!

London ► Belgrade

• Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 07:01 Mondays-Fridays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 10:17, at 06:31 on Saturdays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 09:47, or at 08:01 on Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 11:20.

  There's also an 07:55 Eurostar on Mondays-Saturdays, but I'd play safe and book an earlier Eurostar when available.

  Cross Paris by metro or taxi to the Gare de Lyon, 2 stops on RER line D.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria, leaving Paris Gare de Lyon at 12:22 arriving Zurich HB at 16:26.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV-Lyria has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi, see more about TGV-Lyria.

  In Zurich, there's time for dinner while waiting for the sleeper, I recommend steak-frites and a beer at the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB, see other restaurant suggestions.

• Day 1, travel from Zurich to Zagreb by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zurich HB at 20:40 and arriving in Zagreb at 10:39 next morning.

  The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Day 2, travel from Zagreb to Belgrade on the daily train, leaving Zagreb at 11:04 arriving Novi Beograd 18:04 & Belgrade Centar at 18:12.

  This train has air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats (no 1st class).  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

  Tip:  Although Belgrade Centar is slightly closer to the city centre, you have to rely on a single bus line.  Trams 7 & 9 link Novi Beograd station with the site of the now-defunct old Belgrade station on the edge of the old city every 5-10 minutes so you may prefer to get off at Novi Beograd and take a tram, see the Belgrade station page for more information.

Belgrade ► London

• Day 1, travel from Belgrade to Zagreb on the daily train, leaving Belgrade Centar station at 10:05 & Novi Beograd 10:19, arriving Zagreb 18:13.

  This train has two air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats.  There's no 1st class.  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.  The train is intended to connect into the sleeper to Zurich.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Zurich by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zagreb at 19:38 and arriving in Zurich HB at 09:20 next morning.

  The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

How to buy tickets

• Step 1, book from London to Zurich at www.thetrainline.com. 

  Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets together in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem.  There's a small booking fee.  Who are Thetrainline.com?

  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead for Eurostar, up to 4 months ahead for Paris-Zurich, and up to 6 months ahead for the Zurich-Zagreb sleeper, see more information about when bookings open.  I recommend waiting until all 3 trains have opened for booking and times are confirmed before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.

  Tip:  Click via/avoid and enter Paris as a via station to limit the search to routes via Paris.

  Tip:  You can book from London to Zurich all in one go if you like, but for more control over the connection in Paris, I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Zurich and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains.  That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars have cheaper prices.

  Tip:  If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return.  All other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!

  Tip:  After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice about buying domestic tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.

• Step 2, book the sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com, add to basket & check out.

  Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Zurich-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes. You print your own ticket.

• Step 3, Zagreb to Belgrade cannot be booked online, buy at the station in Zagreb or even on board the train, this won't be a problem.

• Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Zurich at the French Railways website www.sncf-connect.com, then Zurich to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  This is more work on multiple websites and sometimes more fiddly, prices should be the same, but no booking fees.

How to buy tickets by phone

• If you'd prefer to book all your tickets together by phone, just call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, small booking fee.

• Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Standard Premier & Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide.  How to cross Paris by metro or taxi.

A Eurostar e320 train at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		Standard Premier/Business Premier.  Larger photo.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria...

All TGV-Lyria trains are now 320km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex like the one shown below.  TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes:  Standard class (2nd), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with hot meal & drinks included in the fare).  There's a cafe-bar car selling drinks & snacks.  There are power points for mobiles & laptops at all seats in all classes.  Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways.  More information about TGV-Lyria.

TGV-Lyria TGV Duplex train at Paris Gare de Lyon. More information about TGV-Lyria

Cafe-bar on upper deck car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes...		2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

1st class on the upper deck, with a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right. Larger photo.		A TGV-Lyria boarding at Paris Gare de Lyon.  You enter on the lower deck, with 9 stairs up to top deck.

3. Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper train...  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Zurich before boarding at a local restaurant, try the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB.

The Zurich-Zagreb sleeper train boarding at Zurich HB as the sun sets on a summer day.  That's the Croatian couchette car on the right, the Croatian sleeping-car on the left.  See the Croatian sleeper video.

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper.		Set up as a single-berth.		4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360º photo.

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava...

4. Zagreb to Belgrade by train...

This is a comfortable air-conditioned Serbian train, with modern 2nd class seats - there's no 1st class.  There's also no restaurant car, so take a picnic and some beer or wine with you.  Below right, the Belgrade to Zagreb train about to leave Belgrade.  Below left, 2nd class seats.

Option 3:  London to Belgrade by daytime trains with hotel stops...

This takes longer than using a time-effective sleeper train, 3 days/2 nights instead of 2 days/1 night, but if you prefer daytime scenery and hotels to sleeper trains this is the route for you, London to Belgrade with overnight stops in Munich and Zagreb.

London ► Belgrade

• Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:22 on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:57.  On Saturdays, leave London St Pancras at 12:24 arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 15:57.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Munich TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:55 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Munich Hbf 21:36.

  On Saturdays, you leave Paris at 17:55 arriving Munich Hbf at 23:29, but if you'd prefer an earlier arrival in Munich you can also leave London at 09:24 and connect with a TGV Duplex leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 13:55 for Stuttgart Hbf, change there for Munich Hbf arriving 19:27.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views.  Times may vary, so check for your date at www.bahn.de.

  Alternatively, you can travel from London to Munich by Eurostar & ICE train via Brussels & Cologne, see the London to Germany page.

• Stay overnight in Munich.  The affordable Eden Hotel Wolff & NH Collection München are across the road from the station's north side exit with great reviews.  Or consider the more upmarket 25 Hours Hotel The Royal Bavarian, Excelsior by Giesel & Mercure City Center.  For a splurge, the luxurious Sofitel Munich Beyerpost occupies the former Royal Bavarian Post Office building of 1896-1900, at the station's south side exit.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Zagreb, leaving Munich Hbf at 08:16 by swish air-conditioned Austrian railjet train and arriving in Villach, near the Austrian-Slovenian border, at 12:43.  A restaurant car is available for breakfast, or in 1st & business class food and drink orders are taken at your seat.  At Villach it's a simple cross-platform change onto the waiting Slovenian/Croatian/Serbian EuroCity train Sava, to Zagreb, leaving Villach at 12:53 and arriving Zagreb at 17:11.

• Stay overnight in Zagreb.  I suggest the historic Esplanade Hotel, Palace Hotel or Central Hotel, all near the station with good reviews.

• Day 3, travel from Zagreb to Belgrade on the daily train, leaving Zagreb at 11:04 arriving Novi Beograd 18:04 & Belgrade Centar at 18:12.

  This train has air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats (no 1st class).  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

  Tip:  Although Belgrade Centar is slightly closer to the city centre, you have to rely on a single bus line.  Trams 7 & 9 link Novi Beograd station with the site of the now-defunct old Belgrade station on the edge of the old city every 5-10 minutes so you may prefer to get off at Novi Beograd and take a tram, see Belgrade station page for more information.

Belgrade  ► London

• Day 1, travel from Belgrade to Zagreb on the daily train, leaving Belgrade Centar station at 10:05 & Novi Beograd at 10:19 arriving Zagreb 18:13.

  This train has two air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats.  There's no 1st class.  There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.

  This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.

• Stay overnight in Zagreb.  I suggest the historic Esplanade Hotel, Palace Hotel or Central Hotel, all near the station with good reviews.

• Day 2, travel from Zagreb to Munich, leaving Zagreb at 12:36 by air-conditioned InterCity train Sava, you need to make a simple cross-platform change of train at Villach (arrive 17:09, depart 17:16) onto a smart Austrian railjet train and you arrive at Munich Hbf at 21:41.  Enjoy the lovely scenery along the Sava River.

  Alternatively, you can take the earlier direct EuroCity train leaving Zagreb at 07:00 and arriving Munich Hbf at 15:41, with no need to switch trains in Villach.  This is an Austrian train with 6-seater compartments in both 1st & 2nd class, take your own provisions as there's no restaurant or buffet car until the train leaves Villach at 11:16.  Indeed, I'd say this is preferable as on occasion the afternoon Sava has been known to miss its connection in Villach.

• Stay overnight in Munich.  The affordable Eden Hotel Wolff & NH Collection München are across the road from the station's north side exit with great reviews.  Or consider the more upmarket 25 Hours Hotel The Royal Bavarian, Excelsior by Giesel & Mercure City Center.  For a splurge, the luxurious Sofitel Munich Beyerpost occupies the former Royal Bavarian Post Office building of 1896-1900, at the station's south side exit.

• Day 3, travel from Munich to Paris by TGV Duplex, leaving Munich Hbf at 06:42 (06:51 until 26 August 2023) arriving Paris Gare de l'Est 12:31.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views, see this video.  Times may vary, so check your date at www.bahn.de.

  If you'd prefer a leisurely breakfast & later departure from Munich there are various later options, see the London to Germany page.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, normally leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 15:03, arriving London St Pancras 16:39.

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £115 one-way, £199 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Munich by TGV starts at €39 each way in 2nd class or €69 in 1st class.

• Munich to Zagreb starts at €37.90 each way in 2nd class or €56.90 in 1st class.

• Zagreb to Belgrade is approximately €25 each way if bought at the station in Zagreb or  188 Croatian kuna (€25) if bought on board the train.

• The Zagreb to Belgrade fare is fixed-price, but the other fares vary like air fares, rising as departure date approaches, so book in advance.

How to buy tickets

• The easiest and cheapest way to book this journey is online, as there's no booking fees and all the cheap deals are there for you to see.  Booking for Eurostar & TGV opens up to 6 months ahead, the Munich-Zagreb sleeper only opens 3 months ahead.  You cannot book before booking opens.

• Step 1, book the TGV from Paris to Munich at the German Railways website www.bahn.de.  You print your own ticket.  I strongly recommend registering when prompted, as you can then log in from any computer and check or re-print your tickets.

• Step 2, still on www.bahn.de, book your Munich to Zagreb train, looking for a cheap Sparpreis fare and print your own ticket.

• Step 3, now book the London-Paris Eurostar at www.eurostar.com.  You book online and print your own ticket.  I recommend confirming the timings of the Paris-Munich train before booking a suitable Eurostar connection, which is this is step 3 not step 1.  Make sure you allow at least 60 minutes in Paris between trains.

• Step 4, the Zagreb to Belgrade train cannot be booked online, but is easy to book at the station in Zagreb, which is the cheapest way to do it.  There are always places available, it cannot sell out.

How to buy tickets by phone

• It's better to book online, but if you want to book by phone, call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).  Other agencies selling European tickets by phone.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Gare du Nord station guide.

A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		1st class:  Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex...   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart & Munich.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.  Munich Hbf station guide.

TGV Duplex at Paris Est. These impressive 320 km/h double-deck trains link Paris with Stuttgart & Munich...

Cafe-bar on upper deck in car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.		2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

1st class on upper deck, a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right.  360º photo.		A TGV Duplex.  The 1 near the door indicates 1st class, a 2 indicates 2nd class.

3. Munich to Zagreb by daytime train...

Now for a real treat.  Sit back with a glass of red, catch up on your reading and enjoy the views...  This is actually two trains, a smart modern Austrian Railjet train with restaurant car from Munich to Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, then a comfortable air-conditioned Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train from Villach to Ljubljana and Zagreb.  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  You make a quick & easy change of train across the platform at Villach, the Croatian train will be waiting for this connection.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  Beyond Ljubljana, the train continues to follow the river Sava, passing through a beautiful river gorge between mountains, a real treat.  Beyond Zidani Most the valley widens into a plain, and you cross the border into Croatia at Dobova and soon arrive in Zagreb's impressive central station, a palace of a building, right in the centre of the city.

A railjet about to leave Munich Hbf...

Business class.  About.		Restaurant car.

First class.		Economy class.

Through the Austrian Alps...  Clinging to the mountainside high in the Austrian Alps, the railjet snakes along between snow-capped mountains, absolutely wonderful.  There's a quick cross-platform change of train at Villach onto a Slovenian & Croatian train called the Sava...

...and along the Sava river in Slovenia.  Now across the border in Slovenia, the EuroCity train runs along the pretty River Sava all the way to Ljubljana and Zagreb...		Comfortable seats:  The 2nd class seats in the Slovenian cars are arranged 2+1 abreast, the same as 1st class!

More lovely scenery along the Sava between Ljubljana & Zagreb...

The EuroCity train Sava, arrived at Zagreb.		More scenery along the Sava between Ljubljana & Zagreb.

4. Zagreb to Belgrade by train...

This is a comfortable air-conditioned Serbian train, with modern 2nd class seats - there's no 1st class.  There's also no restaurant car, so take a picnic and some beer or wine with you.  Below right, the Belgrade to Zagreb train about to leave Belgrade.  Below left, 2nd class seats.

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North Macedonia & Kosovo

London ► Skopje & Pristina

• Step 1, travel from London to Belgrade using any of the options shown in the London to Belgrade section above.

• Step 2, travel from Belgrade to Nis & Skopje. 

  Unfortunately, the only daily train between Belgrade & Skopje became summer-only, and was then suspended during the pandemic and n ever reinstated.  There are now no trains at all.  The last resort is 6h15 in a bus, try Omio.com for buses.

• Step 3, there used to be one train a day between Skopje & Pristina in Kosovo, departing Skopje at 16:20 and arriving Pristina 19:20.  However, this train is also not running.

Pristina & Skopje ► London

• Step 1, there used to be one train a day between Pristina & Skopje, leaving Pristina at 07:10 and arriving Skopje at 09:52.    However, this train is not running.

• Step 2, travel from Skopje to Belgrade.

  Unfortunately, the only daily train between Skopje & Belgrade became summer-only, and was then suspended during the pandemic and n ever reinstated.  There are now no trains at all.  The last resort is 6h15 in a bus, try Omio.com for buses.

• Step 3, travel from Belgrade to London as shown above.

How much does it cost?

• See the London-Belgrade section above for fares to Belgrade.

• Belgrade to Skopje costs around £29 each way 2nd class if bought in the UK.  Bought locally, it costs around 2,700 dinars (€24 or £21).

• Skopje to Pristina bought locally costs about €4.25 one-way.

Skopje to Pristina by train

Traveller Jeroen van Marle reports:  "I took the train from Priština in Kosovo to Skopje. Absolutely freezing cold as there was no heating, but the ride was lovely, very scenic compared to the highway blight that the buses pass."  This train has ceased running.

The morning train waits to leave Pristina.  Photo courtesy of Jeroen van Marle		At the border, where locomotives are changed.  Photo courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

The train uses old Norwegian coaches.  Photo courtesy of Jeroen van Marle		The train from Pristina, arrived at Skopje station.  Photo courtesy of Jeroen van Marle

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Booking trains in Serbia

The Serbian Railways reservation system is linked to the western European railway computer reservation systems, so seat, couchette or sleeper reservations can be made on domestic or international trains starting in Belgrade from most reservation offices or train booking agencies across Europe, including UK European rail booking agencies.  In practice however, the computer link sometimes goes down, and in any case agencies outside Serbia can only sell full-price 'TCV' international-tariff tickets, they can't sell you the various cheap fares that are available directly from Serbian Railways themselves.

Buy tickets at the station...

The easiest option is simply to buy tickets when you reach Belgrade, at the ticket office.  There is hardly ever a problem doing this, there are almost always places available on all trains, even on the day.

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European Rail Timetable & maps

The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted.  See an extract from the map.  Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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Guidebooks

To get the most from your visit, you should take a good guidebook - even in the age of the internet.  For the independent traveller, I think this means one of two guidebooks, either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide.  Both series are excellent.  You can buy a guide covering all the countries in Eastern Europe.  Lonely Planet Eastern Europe.

Click to buy online at Amazon...

 

 

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Hotels in Belgrade & Balkans

Look no further for a hotel in Belgrade than the historic Hotel Moskva.  Opened in 1906, anyone who is anyone who has visited Belgrade has stayed here, from British author Graham Green to Ethiopian emperor Haile Salassie.  It served as Gestapo Headquarters in 1941-44, although fortunately no trace of these former occupants remains.  It's right in the centre of Belgrade at the end of the pedestrianised main street that leads to Belgrade fortress.  It was only 10 minutes walk (admittedly uphill) from Belgrade's old station, but now a taxi ride from Belgrade Centar station or Topcider.  The hotel has immaculate rooms, friendly staff and a good cooked breakfast.  Book the Hotel Moskva.

My favourite hotel search site: www.booking.com www.booking.com is my favourite hotel booking site and I generally prefer booking my hotels all in one place here.  You can usually book with free cancellation - this allows you to confirm your accommodation at no risk before train booking opens.  It also means you can hold accommodation while you finalise your itinerary, and alter your plans as they evolve - a feature I use all the time when putting a trip together.  I never book hotels non-refundably.  I have also come to trust their review scores - you won't be disappointed with anything over 8.0. Tip:  It can pay to compare prices across multiple hotel sites:  HotelsCombined.com is a price comparison site which compares hotel prices on Booking.com, Hotels.com, Expedia, Accor, Agoda and many others.  Though if there's not much in it, I prefer keeping all my bookings together in one place at www.booking.com.

Other hotel sites worth trying...

www.tripadvisor.com is the place to find independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.

Backpacker hostels...

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & other tips

Always take out travel insurance

You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer.  It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit.  These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself.  Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.

  www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection and gets 4.7 out of 5 on Trustpilot.

  www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get an eSIM with mobile data package for Europe

Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for Europe and stay connected.  Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list.  Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.

Get a Curve card for foreign travel

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader.  The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than getting a card out).  I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  VPNs & why you need one explained

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi.  It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply.  See VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription.  I get a small commission to help support this site.

Always carry an Anker powerbank

Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged.  I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet.  Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from Buy from Amazon.com.

Touring cities & museums?  Use hill walking shoes!

One of the best things I've done is swap my normal shoes for hill-walking shoes, in my case from Scarpa.  They're intended for hiking across the Pennines not wandering around Florence, but the support and cushioning for hiking works equally well when you're on your feet all day exploring foreign cities.  My feet used to give out first and limit my day, now the rest of me gives up before they do!

 

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