Magnolia blossom in the lovely city of Zagreb.  Croatia is fabulous, from Adriatic islands to wineries & olive groves in Istria.  No flight needed!
	The rail way to Croatia!  London to Zagreb in 24 hours...

UK to Croatia by train in 24 hours...

Take a mid-morning Eurostar to Paris, a 320 km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex to Munich, and an excellent Croatian sleeper train overnight from Munich to Zagreb, arriving next morning.  Or take Eurostar & TGV Duplex to Munich, stay the night in a hotel and take a wonderful scenic ride next day through the mountains across Austria, into Slovenia and along the pretty River Sava to Zagreb.  The choice is yours.  It's safe, civilised, comfortable & affordable and unlike a flight, a truly memorable travel experience.  This page is a guide to booking train travel to Croatia, with train times, fares & how to buy tickets...

COVID-19 update:  Trains are running between the UK & Croatia.  Eurostar is running a much-reduced service, check times online.  Beyond Paris & Brussels, there are some service reductions, but train service is much closer to normal.  See COVID-19 travel information.

Train times, fares & tickets

  London to Zagreb

  London to Split & Dubrovnik

  London to Korcula, Hvar, Vis, Brac

  London to Rijeka

  London to Istria:  Porec, Rovinj, Pula

  Visiting the city of Zagreb

  Suggested hotels in Zagreb, Split & Croatia

  Useful country information: currency, dial code...

  Holidays to Slovenia & Croatia by train not plane

  Trains from Croatia to other European cities

  Trains to Croatia from other European cities

Train travel information...

  General information about European train travel

  Taking your bike    Taking your dog    Luggage 

  Travel insurance, Curve card & VPN

  Buying UK train tickets to connect with Eurostar

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Useful country information

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London to Zagreb

Which route to choose?

Croatia's capital city, Zagreb, is a wonderful city to visit, and it's the hub for trains to Split for onward ferries to Adriatic islands such as Hvar or buses to Dubrovnik.  It's straightforward, safe & comfortable to reach Zagreb by train from the UK.  Here are three good options, two using Eurostar, one using the Harwich-Hoek ferry:

• Option 1, morning Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Munich, sleeper to Zagreb:  Take a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon high-speed double-deck TGV Duplex to Munich, then the modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeper train Lisinski from Munich to Zagreb arriving next morning.  This is the fastest option.

  Important:  Until 10 July 2021, the Munich-Zagreb sleeper is cancelled due to major engineering works closing the Karawanks Tunnel between Austria & Slovenia.  Use option 2 instead.

• Option 2, morning Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Zurich, sleeper to Zagreb:  This is similar to option 1, but via Zurich instead of Munich, taking a couple of hours longer but with some great scenery.  Take a morning Eurostar to Paris, an afternoon high-speed double-deck TGV-Lyria to Zurich, then a modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb arriving late morning after a lovely scenic run along the Sava river.

  The Zurich-Zagreb sleeper is largely unaffected by the Karawanks Tunnel engineering work, until 10 July 2021 it's diverted via Maribor with just a little extra journey time.

• Option 3, using the Brussels-Vienna Nightjet sleeper train, 3 times a week:  You take a mid-afternoon Eurostar to Brussels, the excellent Austrian Nightjet sleeper to Vienna, spend the morning in Vienna, then take a late afternoon EuroCity train to Zagreb with (in summer when it's light) great scenery along the UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna.  This route is unaffected by the Karawanks Tunnel engineering work.

• Option 4, morning Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Munich, overnight stop, daytime train to Zagreb:  For all-daytime train travel with great scenery, take a mid-morning Eurostar to Paris and the afternoon high-speed double-decker TGV Duplex to Munich.  Stay the night in Munich and continue next day through superb Austrian, Slovenian and Croatian landscapes.  This option is longer then the others, but it uses daytime trains throughout, with a hotel stop in Munich.

• Option 5, London or Cambridge to Amsterdam overnight by ferry. high-speed ICE trains to Munich & sleeper train to Zagreb.  The ferry alternative!  Travel overnight from London or Cambridge to Amsterdam with a cosy private cabin, take superb ICE trains across Germany to Munich, have dinner in Munich then take the overnight sleeper to Zagreb.

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Option 1:  Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Munich & sleeper train to Zagreb...

This is the most time-effective option, London to Zagreb in comfort in less than 24 hours. 

Important:  Until 10 July 2021, major engineering works are closing the Karawanks Tunnel between Austria & Slovenia, and the Munich-Zagreb sleeper is cancelled.  Use option 2 instead, as the Zurich-Zagreb sleeper is still running.

London ► Zagreb

• Day 1:  Travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:24 on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:47, or at 09:22 on Saturdays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 12:47.  It's a 10 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Day 1:  Travel from Paris to Munich by 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:54 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Munich Hbf at 21:36.  On Saturdays you leave Paris Gare de l'Est at 13:36, change at Stuttgart and arrive Munich Hbf at 19:27.  Times may vary, so check them online at www.bahn.de.

  In Munich, there's time for dinner while waiting for the sleeper, for local Bavarian food and a beer or two I recommend the Augustiner Keller (www.augustinerkeller.de) at Arnulfstrasse 52, to the north side of Munich Hbf.  See walking map.

• Day 1:  Travel from Munich to Zagreb overnight on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Munich Hbf at 23:20 and arriving at Zagreb at 08:35 next morning (day 2).  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

Zagreb ► London

• Day 1:  Travel from Zagreb to Munich overnight on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Zagreb at 21:20 and arriving in Munich Hbf at 06:10 next morning.  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Day 2:  Travel from Munich to Stuttgart, leaving Munich Hbf at 07:46 by InterCity train arriving Stuttgart at 09:59.  On some Sundays, you'll need to leave earlier, at 07:28 by ICE train arriving Stuttgart at 09:45.

• Day 2:  Travel from Stuttgart to Paris by high-speed ICE train with restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi, leaving Stuttgart at 10:52 and arriving Paris Gare de l'Est at 14:21.  In Paris, it's a 10-minute walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 2:  Travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 16:07, arriving London St Pancras at 17:39.

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, book from London to Munich at www.thetrainline.com.  Who are Thetrainline.com?

  Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.

  Booking opens up to 180 days ahead for Eurostar, up to 120 days ahead for Paris-Munich, and usually 90 days ahead for Munich-Zagreb, see more information about when bookings open.  I recommend waiting until onward trains have opened for booking and times are confirmed before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.

  Tip:  Click via/avoid and enter Paris as a via station to limit the search to routes via Paris. 

  Tip:  You can book from London to Munich all in one go if you like, but for more control over the connection in Paris, I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Munich and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains.  That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars have cheaper prices.

  Tip:  If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return.  All other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!

  Tip:  After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice about buying domestic tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.

• Step 2, book the sleeper train from Munich to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com.

  Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Munich-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket.

• Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Munich at the German Railways website www.bahn.de, then Munich to Zagreb by sleeper at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  This is more work on multiple websites, the prices should be the same, but no booking fees.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• If you'd prefer to book all your tickets together by phone, just call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, small booking fee.

• Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).

Let Railbookers arrange it as a package...

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a tour or holiday for you as a package, including train travel, hotels & transfers.  On their website you'll find a range of suggested tours & holidays which can be varied or customised to your requirements.  As you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens to one part of the itinerary such as a strike or delay.

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk. 

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

    Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

    Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website. 

    New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in (10-minutes for business premier) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Gare du Nord station guide.

2. Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex...   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 10 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart & Munich.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.  Munich Hbf station guide.

3. Munich to Zagreb on the sleeper train Lisinski...  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Munich before boarding at a local restaurant, try www.augustinerkeller.de at Arnulfstrasse 52, to the north side of Munich Hbf.  See walking map.

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Option 2:  Eurostar to Paris, TGV-Lyria to Zurich, sleeper to Zagreb...

This is similar to option 1, but instead of TGV to Munich and Croatian sleeper train from Munich to Zagreb, you taka a TGV-Lyria to Zurich and Croatian sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb.  There are two disadvantages of this option compared to option 1:  First, you need to cross Paris by taxi or metro from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon, in option 1 it's a 10 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est next door.  Second, with this option you leave London around the same time, but arrive in Zagreb a couple of hours later.  There's one advantage, you can board the sleeper in Zurich much earlier, for a 20:40 departure, whereas in Munich you have to wait up for a late-night 23:20 departure.  There's also lovely scenery in the morning on the way to Zagreb along the Sava river, you won't regret those extra 2 hours!

Until 10 July 2021 this option has a major advantage over option 1:  The Zurich-Zagreb sleeper used in this option is still running, merely diverted via Maribor to avoid the Karawanks Tunnel, with just a little extra journey time.

London ► Zagreb

• Day 1:  Travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 09:22 arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 12:47.  Cross Paris by metro or taxi to the Gare de Lyon.

• Day 1:  Travel from Paris to Zurich by 320 km/h double-deck TGV-Lyria, leaving Paris Gare de Lyon at 14:22 arriving Zurich HB at 18:26.  On Mondays-Fridays a change of train is needed in Basel, at weekends it's direct.

  On certain dates you may find the 14:22 Paris-Zurich train isn't running.  On those dates, leave London on the 07:55 Eurostar and take the 12:22 TGV-Lyria from Paris to Zurich, arriving 16:26.  See the London to Switzerland page for more details.

  In Zurich, there's time for dinner while waiting for the sleeper, I recommend steak-frites and a beer at the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB, see other restaurant suggestions.

• Day 1:  Travel from Zurich to Zagreb overnight by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zurich HB at 20:40 and arriving in Zagreb at 10:43 next morning (day 2).  Until 10 July 2021 this train is diverted via Maribor to avoid the work in the Karawanks Tunnel and arrives Zagreb 11:27.

  The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

Zagreb ► London

• Day 1:  Travel from Zagreb to Zurich by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zagreb at 18:38 and arriving in Zurich HB at 09:20 next morning.

  Important: Until 10 July 2021 this train is diverted via Maribor to avoid the work in the Karawanks Tunnel, leaving Zagreb earlier, at 17:36.

  The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Day 2:  Travel from Zurich to Paris by 320 km/h double-deck TGV-Lyria, leaving Zurich HB at 11:34 and arriving Paris Gare de Lyon at 15:38.

• Day 2:  Travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 17:13, arriving London St Pancras at 18:32.

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, book from London to Zurich at www.thetrainline.com.  Who are Thetrainline.com?

  Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.

  Booking opens up to 180 days ahead for Eurostar, up to 120 days ahead for Paris-Zurich, and usually 90 days ahead for Zurich-Zagreb, see more information about when bookings open.  I recommend waiting until onward trains have opened for booking and times are confirmed before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.

  Tip:  Click via/avoid and enter Paris as a via station to limit the search to routes via Paris.

  Tip:  You can book from London to Zurich all in one go if you like, but for more control over the connection in Paris, I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Zurich and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains.  That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars have cheaper prices.

  Tip:  If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return.  All other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!

  Tip:  After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice about buying domestic tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.

• Step 2, book the sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com.

  Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Zurich-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead.  You print your own ticket.

• Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Zurich at the French Railways website en.oui.sncf, then Zurich to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  This is more work on multiple websites and sometimes more fiddly, prices should be the same, but no booking fees.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• It's better to book online, but if you want to book by phone, just call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, a phone booking fee applies.

• Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).

What are the trains like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  Standard Premier & Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in (10-minutes for business premier) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide.  How to cross Paris by metro or taxi.

A Eurostar e320 train at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		Standard Premier/Business Premier.  Larger photo.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria...

All TGV-Lyria trains are now 320km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex like the one shown below.  TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes:  Standard class (2nd), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with hot meal & drinks included in the fare).  There's a cafe-bar car selling drinks & snacks.  There are power points for mobiles & laptops at all seats in all classes.  Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways.  More information about TGV-Lyria.

TGV-Lyria TGV Duplex train at Paris Gare de Lyon. More information about TGV-Lyria

Cafe-bar on upper deck car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes...		2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

1st class on the upper deck, with a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right. 360º photo.		A TGV-Lyria for Geneva, boarding at Paris Gare de Lyon.  You enter on the lower deck, with 9 stairs up to top deck.

3. Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper train..  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Zurich before boarding at a local restaurant, try the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB.

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Option 3, Eurostar to Brussels, Nightjet sleeper to Vienna, EuroCity train to Zagreb...

This is arguably most comfortable option as the Nightjet offers some deluxe sleepers with en suite shower & toilet, and all interchanges are easy same-station changes.  You also get a morning free in Vienna, although for that very reason it's slower than options 1 & 2.  This route is unaffected by the Karawanks tunnel work.

London ► Zagreb Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays

• Step 1, travel from London to Brussels by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 15:04 and arriving in Brussels Midi at 18:05.

  Tip:  At Brussels Midi, the Pullman Hotel bar makes an excellent VIP waiting room.

• Step 2, travel from Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet, leaving Brussels Midi 19:32 on Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays, arriving Vienna Hbf 09:19.  See important Covid-19 update about this Nightjet service.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet sleeper train has an air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-car with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The sleeping-car attendant can serve drinks, snacks & light meals from a room service menu.  The train has couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  A light breakfast is included in sleepers & couchettes, served in your compartment.  See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  The train travels along the famous Rhine Valley between Koblenz (23:46) and Mainz (00:39), so if you're still awake and your compartment happens to be on the left-hand side of the train, switch off the lights and watch the Rhine pass by, mountains, vineyards, castles & the legendary Lorelei Rock lit by moonlight.  Wonderful!

  In Vienna, you've the best part of a day to enjoy the city.  Left luggage lockers are available.

• Step 3, travel from Vienna to Zagreb by EuroCity train Croatia, leaving Vienna Hbf at 15:58 and arriving Zagreb at 22:28.

  The EuroCity train has comfortable air-conditioned Austrian coaches, and an Austrian restaurant car.  In summer when it's light, enjoy the wonderful scenery over dinner in the restaurant car, including a ride over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.

Zagreb ► London Tuesdays, Thursdays & Sundays

• Step 1, travel from Zagreb to Vienna by EuroCity train Croatia, leaving Zagreb at 07:25 and arriving Vienna Hbf at 14:02.

  The EuroCity train has comfortable air-conditioned Austrian coaches, and an Austrian restaurant car.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery over lunch in the restaurant car, including a ride over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.  In Vienna, you've an afternoon to explore, left luggage lockers are available.

• Step 2, travel from Vienna to Brussels by Nightjet, leaving Vienna Hbf at 20:13 on Tuesdays, Thursdays & Sundays, arriving Brussels Midi 09:55.  See important Covid-19 update about this Nightjet service.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet sleeper train has an air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-car with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The sleeping-car attendant can serve drinks, snacks & light meals from a room service menu.  The train has couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  A light breakfast is included in sleepers & couchettes, served in your compartment.  See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  Tip:  If you have a ticket for a sleeper, you can use the ÖBB first class lounge at Vienna Hbf with complimentary snacks & wine.

  Tip:  On arrival at Brussels Midi, the Pullman Hotel bar makes an excellent VIP waiting room.

• Step 3, travel from Brussels to London by Eurostar, leaving Brussels Midi at 10:56 Mondays-Saturdays arriving London St Pancras at 11:57 or at 11:56 on Sundays arriving London St Pancras 12:57.

How much does it cost?

On the sleeper train, berths are sold individually, so one ticket means one bed, the other beds in your compartment will be sold to other passengers.  For sole occupancy, simply book 1 ticket in a 1-berth sleeper, 2 tickets in a 2-berth sleeper, 4 tickets in a 4-berth couchette & so on.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, book the nightjet sleeper train from Brussels to Vienna at www.thetrainline.com and add to basket.  Who are Thetrainline.com?

  Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets together in one place, in €, £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead, see more information about when bookings open.

• Step 2, now use www.thetrainline.com again to add a London-Brussels Eurostar connection, adding this to your basket.

  Tip:  If you are making a round trip, London-Brussels return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return.  All the other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!

• Step 3, now use www.thetrainline.com again to book from Vienna to Zagreb, add to basket & check out.

  Booking for this train may open only 90 days ahead, see more information about when bookings open.

  Tip:  After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.

  Tip:  If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice about buying domestic tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.

• Alternatively, you can book the Nightjet sleeper train at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at (a little more fiddly, in €, has been known to reject some international cards, but no booking fee), then book the Eurostar at www.eurostar.com, then book the Vienna-Zagreb train at www.oebb.at again.  This means more work on multiple websites, prices should be exactly the same, but no booking fee.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• It's better to book online.  However, you can book the Eurostar, Thalys & Nightjet by phone with a number of UK agencies, including Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).  Click here for a list of agencies and more information on how to book.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Brussels by Eurostar: 

Eurostar trains link London & Brussels in just 2 hours, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in (10-minutes for business premier) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Brussels Midi station guide.  In Brussels, I recommend using the Pullman Hotel bar as your VIP waiting room.

2. Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet:  See the Nightjet guide... 

This is an Austrian Railways (ÖBB) Nightjet train, with sleeping-car, couchettes & seats.  The sleeping-car has 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, plus three deluxe compartments with 1, 2 or 3 beds with private shower & toilet.  The sleeper berths come fully made up with sheets and duvets, all sleeper passengers get mineral water in the evening and a light breakfast served in their compartment next morning.  Towels & toiletries are provided, including shampoo and shower gel in the deluxe sleepers.  In the more economical couchettes, you can book a couchette in a cheaper 6-berth compartment or a less-crowded 4-berth compartment, each provided with sheet, blanket, pillow & small bottle of water, and couchette passengers get a tea or coffee in the morning.  When waiting for the northbound sleeper train in Vienna, if you have booked a sleeper you can use the ÖBB first class lounge with complimentary drinks.  More pictures & information about Nightjet trains.

3. Vienna to Zagreb by EuroCity train: 

The EuroCity train Croatia has comfortable air-conditioned Austrian cars, some with classic 6-seat compartments, some with open-plan saloons, and an Austrian restaurant car serving snacks, drinks and meals.

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Option 4:  By daytime trains, with overnight stop in Munich...

This option takes longer than the others, but you may prefer daytime travel with a hotel stop rather than using a sleeper, and best of all you get to see rather than sleep through all that wonderful scenery through the mountains across Austria and along the pretty River Sava from Slovenia to Zagreb.

London ► Zagreb

• Day 1:  Travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:24 (12:24 on Saturdays) arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:47 (15:47 on Saturdays).  In Paris it's a 10 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Day 1:  Travel from Paris to Munich by 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:54 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Munich Hbf at 21:36.  On Saturdays it leaves Paris at 17:54 arriving Munich Hbf at 23:29.  Times may vary, so check them online at www.bahn.de. 

  There's a cafe-bar on board, and I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views.  On Saturdays if you'd prefer an earlier arrival in Munich you can also leave London at 09:22 to connect with a TGV leaving Paris at 13:36 for Stuttgart, change there for Munich arriving 19:27.

  Alternatively, you can travel from London to Munich by Eurostar & ICE train via Brussels & Cologne, see the London to Germany page.

• Stay overnight in Munich:  Try the Sofitel Munich Beyerpost, 25 Hours Hotel Royal Bavarian, Hotel Excelsior, Eden Hotel Wolff, Drei Loewen, or InterCity Hotel, all right next to the station with great reviews.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Zagreb.

  Temporary service until 10 July 2021:  Major engineering works are blocking the Karawanks Tunnel between Austria & Slovenia and the normal Munich-Zagreb train service is suspended.  During this time, the easiest option is to leave Munich at 11:29 by railjet train, change at Vienna Meidling (arrive 15:23, depart 16:05) onto an air-conditioned EuroCity train with restaurant car, arriving Zagreb 22:28.  You can check times for your date at www.bahn.de.

  Normal service resumes on 11 July 2021:  Travel from Munich to Zagreb on modern, air-conditioned train, leaving Munich Hbf at 08:17 by smart Austrian railjet train.  You need to make a simple cross-platform change of train at Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border onto a comfy Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train (arrive 12:43, depart 12:53) and you arrive in Zagreb at 17:12.

  A restaurant car is available on the Austrian Railjet train serving drinks, snacks and affordable full meals (treat yourself to an early lunch!), and there's usually a Serbian restaurant car with more limited food on the Villach-Zagreb part of the journey.  Incidentally, the connection in Villach looks tight, but it's just a short walk across the width of a platform between trains and in this direction the Croatian/Slovenian train will (within reason) wait a bit if the Austrian train is late.  There will be lots of people making this connection.

  What's the scenery like?  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  See the photos below...

Zagreb ► London

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Munich.

  Temporary service until 10 July 2021:  Major engineering works are blocking the Karawanks Tunnel between Austria & Slovenia and the normal Zagreb-Munich train service is suspended.  During this time, the easiest option is to leave Zagreb at 07:25 by EuroCity train with restaurant car, change trains at Graz (arrive 11:25, depart 11:45) onto another air-conditioned EuroCity train to Munich, arriving 17:41.  You can check times for your date at www.bahn.de.

  Normal service resumes on 11 July 2021:  Travel from Zagreb to Munich by air-conditioned train, leaving Zagreb at 12:35 and arriving in Munich Hbf at 21:42.  You need to make a simple cross-platform change of train at Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, from a comfy Croatian & Slovenian EuroCity train to a smart Austrian railjet train, you arrive 17:09 and leave at 17:16.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery over lunch in the restaurant car.

  Important tip:  In this direction, the Slovenian/Croatian train can run late, but the Austrian train will not wait for it.  I recommend playing safe and taking the earlier direct Zagreb-Munich EuroCity train leaving Zagreb at 07:00 and arriving Munich Hbf at 15:41.

• Stay overnight in Munich:  Try the Sofitel Munich Beyerpost, 25 Hours Hotel Royal Bavarian, Hotel Excelsior, Eden Hotel Wolff, Drei Loewen, or InterCity Hotel, all right next to the station with great reviews.

• Day 2:  Travel from Munich to Paris by 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex, leaving Munich Hbf at 06:46 (06:23 on Sundays), arriving Paris Gare de l'Est at 12:38 (12:15 on Sundays).   In Paris, it's a 10-minute walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 2:  Travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 15:13, arriving London St Pancras at 16:39.

  If you'd prefer a leisurely breakfast and later departure from Munich, there are later options via either Paris or Brussels, see the London to Germany page.

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £115 one-way, £199 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Munich by TGV starts at €39 each way in 2nd class or €69 in 1st class.

• Munich to Zagreb starts at €39.90 each way in 2nd class, €69.90 in 1st class.

• All these prices vary like air fares, rising as the cheaper tickets are sold and departure date approaches, so book as early as the booking horizon allows.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, book the Eurostar at www.eurostar.com.

  Booking opens up to 180 days ahead, but I recommend waiting until onward trains are open for booking so their times can be confirmed, before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket.  More information about when bookings open.

  If you're returning, London to Paris should be booked as a round trip because Eurostar return fares are significantly less than two one-ways.  All onward trains beyond Paris are one-way ticketed so a return is simply two one ways and you might find it easier to book one way at a time. 

  You print your own tickets or can load them into the Eurostar app to show on your smartphone.

• Step 2, book the Paris-Munich ticket at the German Railways website www.bahn.de. 

  Booking opens up to 120 days ahead.  Look for the direct TGV with 0 changes, or if not running on your date, for a journey with just 1 change.  You print your own ticket or can show it on your smartphone.

• Step 3, now use this special link to www.bahn.de to book your trains from Munich to Zagreb.

  It will show if any cheap Sparpreis fares are available.  Tickets can be sent to any address worldwide for a small fee or in some cases printed out yourself.

  Tip:  If for any reason the German Railways website says No special fares available and shows only expensive full-flex fares, go to the Austrian Railways site www.oebb.at and book a cheap fare from Salzburg to Zagreb on the same train - Munich-Zagreb trains leave Salzburg about 1h55 after leaving Munich, and ÖBB's cheap fares are called sparschiene.  Now use www.oebb.at again to add a Munich-Salzburg ticket on that same train.  Use those two tickets in combination.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• It's better to book online, as you avoid phone booking fees and can see for yourself which departures have the cheapest fares.  But if you want to book by phone, call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).  Other agencies selling European tickets by phone.

Let Railbookers arrange it as a package...

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a tour or holiday as a package, including rail travel, hotels & transfers.  Their website shows a range of suggested tours & holidays which can be varied or customised to your requirements.  As you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens to one part of the itinerary such as a strike or delay.

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk. 

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

    Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

    Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website. 

    New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in (10-minutes for business premier) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Gare du Nord station guide.

2. Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex...   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 10 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart & Munich.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.  Munich Hbf station guide.

3. Munich to Zagreb by train...

Now for a real treat.  Sit back with a glass of red, catch up on your reading and enjoy the views...  This is actually two trains, a smart modern Austrian Railjet train with restaurant car from Munich to Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, then a comfortable air-conditioned Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train from Villach to Ljubljana and Zagreb.  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  You make a quick & easy change of train across the platform at Villach, the Croatian train will be waiting for this connection.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  Beyond Ljubljana, the train continues to follow the river Sava, passing through a beautiful river gorge between mountains, a real treat.  Beyond Zidani Most the valley widens into a plain, and you cross the border into Croatia at Dobova and soon arrive in Zagreb's impressive central station, a palace of a building, right in the centre of the city.

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Option 5:  Via the Harwich-Hoek van Holland ferry...

This is the ferry alternative, a great option if you live in East Anglia.  It's the route to use if Eurostar fares are expensive or if you want to avoid the Channel Tunnel, for example if you suffer from claustrophobia.  I don't recommend the Dover-Calais route because of poor train/ferry connections, the Stena Line rail & sail service via Harwich & Hoek van Holland is the one to use as it has co-ordinated timetables and integrated ticketing, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page & watch the video.

London, Cambridge & Harwich ► Zagreb

• Day 1, travel from London to Amsterdam overnight on the Stena Line Rail & Sail service.

  You leave London Liverpool Street station at 19:32 or Cambridge at 19:47 on a train to Harwich International.  At Harwich, the station is right next to the ferry terminal and you walk off the train into the terminal, check in at the Stena Line desk and walk straight onto Stena Line's luxurious overnight superferry Stena Britannica to Hoek van Holland.  All passengers travel in cosy private cabins with en suite toilet & shower & satellite TV.  Deluxe Comfort class & Captains class cabins are also available, and there's free WiFi in the lounges, restaurants & bars on 9 deck.  You can get on board the ferry around 9pm, have a late dinner in the restaurant and settle into your cabin.  The ferry sails at 23:00 and arrives at Hoek van Holland at 08:00 Dutch time next morning.  This London-Netherlands train & ferry service is a fully-integrated service with special fares from London to Any Dutch Station which cover the train to Harwich, the ferry and onward train to anywhere in the Netherlands, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.  The same special fare from London is valid from any Abellio Greater Anglia station, for example Norwich, Cambridge, Romford, Ilford, Ipswich.  

  Next morning, take the frequent metro train from Hoek van Holland Haven to Schiedam Centrum and a Dutch Intercity train from Schiedam Centrum to Amsterdam Centraal arriving 10:25.  See the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.

  At Amsterdam Centraal, have a coffee at the delightfully retro Cafe 1e Klas.

• Day 2, travel from Amsterdam to Munich on ICE trains, leaving Amsterdam Centraal at 12:38, changing at Frankfurt (Main) Hbf & arriving Munich Hbf at 20:14.  The ICE trains have a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

  In Munich, there's time for dinner while waiting for the sleeper, for local Bavarian food and a beer or two I recommend the Augustiner Keller (www.augustinerkeller.de) at Arnulfstrasse 52, a few minutes walk on the north side of Munich Hbf.  See walking map.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Zagreb overnight on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Munich Hbf at 23:20 and arriving at Zagreb at 08:35 next morning (day 3).  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

  Important:  Until 10 July 2021, major engineering works in the Karawanks Tunnel between Austria & Slovenia mean that the Munich-Zagreb sleeper is cancelled.  During this time, the easiest option is to spend the day in Amsterdam, then take the Nightjet sleeper train leaving Amsterdam Centraal at 19:30 and arriving Vienna Hbf at 09:19.  Spend a morning in Vienna, then take a EuroCity train leaving Vienna Hbf at 15:58 arriving Zagreb 22:28.  Alternatively, travel to Munich as shown above, stay overnight, leave Munich at 11:29, change at Vienna Meidling and arrive Zagreb at 22:28.

Zagreb  ► Harwich, Cambridge & London

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Munich overnight on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Zagreb at 21:20 and arriving in Munich Hbf at 06:10 next morning.  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Amsterdam on ICE trains, leaving Munich Hbf at 07:45, changing at Frankfurt (Main) Hbf, arriving Amsterdam Centraal at 15:28.  The ICE trains have a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

• Day 2, travel from Amsterdam to London overnight by Stena Line Rail & Sail service.

  You leave Amsterdam Centraal at 18:34 by Dutch intercity train to Schiedam Centrum and change onto the frequent metro to Hoek van Holland Haven.  At Hoek, the metro station is next to the ferry terminal.  Check in at the Stena Line desk at least 45 minutes before sailing time, then walk up the gangway onto the luxurious Stena Line superferry Stena Hollandica and sail overnight to Harwich in a cosy private cabin with shower, toilet & satellite TV.

  The ferry sails from Hoek van Holland at 22:00 and arrives at Harwich International at 06:30 next morning (day 3), UK time.  Day 3, take a train from Harwich to London Liverpool Street arriving around 08:54 or from Harwich to Cambridge, arriving 09:42 (10:39 Sundays).  See the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.

  Important:  Until 10 July 2021, major engineering works in the Karawanks Tunnel between Austria & Slovenia mean that the Zagreb-Munich sleeper is cancelled.  During this time, the easiest option is to take the 07:25 EuroCity train from Zagreb to Vienna Hbf, arriving 14:02.  Spend the afternoon in Vienna, then take the Nightjet sleeper train leaving Vienna Hbf at 20:13 and arriving Amsterdam Centraal 09:58.  Spend the day in Amsterdam then travel overnight to London.  Alternatively, leave Zagreb at 07:25, change at Graz, arrive Munich 17:41.  Stay overnight in Munich, then travel from Munich to Hoek van Holland and overnight to Harwich & London as shown above.

How much does it cost?

• London to Amsterdam by Rail & Sail starts at £55 per person each way, plus the cost of a cabin.

  Cabins start at £34 for a single berth cabin or £45 per cabin for a 2-berth, and are compulsory on the night sailing.  The fare covers the train from London to Harwich, the ferry, and onward Dutch metro & trains from Hoek van Holland Haven to any station in the Netherlands, for full details of fares and cabin types and costs, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.

• Amsterdam to Munich starts at €37.90 each way in 2nd class or €69.90 in 1st class. 

• Munich to Zagreb by sleeper train starts at €49.90 with a couchette in 6-berth, €59.90 with a couchette in 4-berth, €69.90 with a bed in a 3-bed sleeper, €89.90 with a bed in a 2-bed sleeper or €129.90 with a bed in a single-bed sleeper all to yourself.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, buy a Stena Line Rail & Sail ticket from London to Any Dutch Station online as shown on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.  This covers the train from London to Harwich, the Harwich-Hoek ferry, and the metro/train from Hoek to Amsterdam.  You print your own ticket.

• Step 2, book the train from Amsterdam to Munich at www.bahn.de,  You print your own ticket.

• Step 3, book the sleeper from Munich to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com or the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead, you print your own ticket.

Alternatively, stay in Munich & take a daytime train next day...

• Instead of taking the Munich-Zagreb sleeper, you can stay in a hotel in Munich and take a railjet train to Budapest next morning.

• Recommended hotels near Munich Hbf include the Sofitel Munich Beyerpost, 25 Hours Hotel Royal Bavarian, Hotel Excelsior, Eden Hotel Wolff, Drei Loewen, or InterCity Hotel.

• You can leave Munich Hbf at 08:17 every day, change at Villach, arriving Zagreb at 17:12, or there is a later direct train at 12:17 arriving 20:54.

• Fares start at €39.90 each way in 2nd class or €69.90 in 1st class.  Book at www.bahn.de & print your own ticket.

• It works in the return direction too.  Leave Zagreb at 07:00, arrive Munich Hbf 15:41. Stay overnight, then travel to Amsterdam as shown above.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Amsterdam by train & ferry... 

A train takes you from London's Liverpool Street station directly to the ferry terminal at Harwich.  You walk off the train, into the terminal, get your boarding card & cabin key at the Stena Line check-in desk and walk straight onto the overnight ferry to Hoek van Holland.  The superferry Stena Britannica is the largest ferry of its kind in the world.  All passengers travel in private cabins with shower, toilet & satellite TV.  There's free WiFi in the public areas on 9 deck.  The journey from London to Holland is explained in detail on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.  See the video...

Captain's Class cabin on the Harwich-Hoek ferry with double bed, complimentary minibar with sparkling wine, tea & coffee making facilities, hairdryer.  Larger photo.		Boarding the Stena Britannica at Harwich.  She's a floating hotel to Hoek van Holland, with easy rail connections on either side of the Channel.  Restaurants, bars, shop, kennels, cinema...

Dinner before bed?  Metropolitan à la carte restaurant.		Standard outside cabin.  Larger photo.  360º photo.

2. Amsterdam to Duisburg & Duisburg to Munich by ICE...

ICEs are German Railways' premier trains, with 1st & 2nd class, a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

An ICE3M to Frankfurt at Amsterdam.  More information about ICE...

2nd class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.		1st class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

Food is served on proper china with metal cutlery.  I recommend the Erdinger Weissbier!  See current month's menu.		Restaurant car:  This is the small 12-seat restaurant on an ICE3M.  ICE3 classes 403 & 407 have a larger restaurant area.  Larger photo.

3. Munich to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski...  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Munich before boarding at a local restaurant, try www.augustinerkeller.de at Arnulfstrasse 52, to the north side of Munich Hbf.  See walking map.

The sleeping-car on the Lisinski:  The modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car of the Lisinski from Munich to Zagreb has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as a 1, 2 or 3 berth room, with toilets at the end of the corridor.  Above left, the sleeper arrived at Zagreb.  See larger sleeper photo.

The couchette car on the Lisinski has modern air-conditioned 6-berth and 4-berth compartments.  Above right, the westbound train is seen boarding at Zagreb. See 360º photo.

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava...

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Visiting the city of Zagreb...

Zagreb is a wonderful and much under-rated city, so don't rush through in haste to reach the Adriatic resorts!  It's small enough to walk around, but with more of a big-city feel than Ljubljana in neighbouring Slovenia.  The station is an impressive landmark in its own right, a palatial building which opens onto a succession of grand park squares, with the main town square (Ban Josip Jelačić) 5-10 minutes walk from the station and the old town two minutes walk behind that.  You'll find tourist information online at www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr, or there's a tourist office on the near right-hand corner of the main city square.  Hotels in Zagreb.  Map of Zagreb.

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London to Split & Dubrovnik

Option 1, London to Split & Dubrovnik by train...

London ► Split, Dubrovnik

• Step 1, travel from London to Zagreb as shown in the London to Zagreb section above, using whichever option suits you best.

• Step 2, travel from Zagreb to Split by train...

  Daytime train to Split:  One or two ICN tilting trains link Zagreb with Split every day.  There's a 15:20 from Zagreb all year round arriving Split at 21:28 and an additional 07:35 departure from Zagreb in summer (mid-June to early September) arriving Split at 13:43.

  Overnight train to Split:  An overnight train leaves Zagreb daily at 23:05, arriving at Split next morning at 07:05.  It has one comfortable modern sleeping-car with 1, 2 & 3-berth compartments (see the photos below), and 6-berth couchettes.

  You can check train times using www.hzpp.hr.  Taking the daytime train is a good option, as Zagreb to Split is a very scenic train ride, with mountains, lakes, rivers, and even vineyards.  The trains are modern and air-conditioned, see the photos below.  ICN trains tilt round the bends on this mountainous route, cutting the journey time to 5½-6 hours from a previous best of around 8 hours.  Seat reservation is compulsory on ICN trains.

• Step 3, travel the last short hop along the Adriatic coast from Split to Dubrovnik.

  Buses run every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.ak-split.hr (Split bus station arrivals & departures), www.dubrovnik-online.net or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures).

  Alternatively, a fast catamaran sails along the coast from Split to Dubrovnik once a day in summer, 3 or 4 times a week in the shoulder seasons, no sailings in winter - see www.krilo.hr.  It sails via the islands of Brač, Korčula & Hvar, a very pleasant way to go.

Dubrovnik, Split ► London

• Step 1, travel from Dubrovnik to Split

  Buses run every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.dubrovnik-online.net or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures).

  Alternatively, a fast catamaran sails along the coast from Dubrovnik to Split once a day in summer, 3 or 4 times a week in the shoulder seasons, no sailings in winter - see www.krilo.hr.  It sails via the islands of Brač, Korčula & Hvar, a very pleasant way to go.

• Step 2, travel from Split to Zagreb by train...

  Daytime trains from Split to Zagreb:  You can also travel from Split to Zagreb by fast air-conditioned ICN daytime train through great scenery.  There's  08:35 ICN from Split arriving Zagreb at 14:54 all year round.  In summer, there's an additional 14:21 from Split arriving Zagreb at 20:37.  Simply use www.hzpp.hr to check train times.  Seat reservation is compulsory on ICN trains.  See the photos below.

  Overnight train from Split to Zagreb:  An overnight train leaves Split at 21:40, arriving Zagreb at 05:47 next morning.  It has one comfortable modern sleeping-car with 1, 2 & 3-berth compartments (see the photos below), and 6-berth couchettes.

• Step 3, travel from Zagreb to London by train using any of the options shown in the London to Zagreb section above.  The afternoon ICN from Split connects nicely with the Lisinski sleeper train to Munich for onward TGV to Paris and London, see above.

Fares & how to buy tickets

• For fares from London to Zagreb, see the section above.

• Bought online at www.hzpp.hr or at the station in Zagreb, Zagreb to Split by daytime ICN train costs 208 kuna (£23) in 2nd class or 303 kuna (£34) in 1st class, each way.  If you buy at www.hzpp.hr, you print your own ticket.  Travelling in a 2-berth sleeper on the night train costs around the same as a first class daytime ticket.

• To buy train tickets from the UK to Split:

  Step 1, buy tickets from London to Zagreb online as shown above.

  Step 2, buy a ticket from Zagreb to Split & back at Croatian Railways website www.hzpp.hr and print your own ticket.

Zagreb to Split by ICN train...

Traveller Francis Meylan reports:  "The journey to Split was fascinating and very scenic.  It was a modern diesel train with a free cup of coffee (though no food).  Single track but recently re-engineered and was very smooth despite climbing and very many bends, tunnels, and so forth.  The track went across high embankments and on ledges on valley sides.  It wasn't particularly fast and I can see why.  Every country station had a uniformed station master standing to attention as the train went past!  Many of the country stations were in ruins and there were obvious signs of war damage, walls pock marked with bullet holes.  We could see several minefields marked off.  In Knin the front of the large Austro-Hungarian-style town hall was riddled with bullet holes. Towards Split the landscape is very dry, limestone I think, and very rocky.  If you took the Sleeper would miss all this!

The daytime trains to Split:  These fast, tilting, air-conditioned ICN trains link Zagreb & Split once or twice a day through great scenery.  Above right, first class seats on the train to Split.  below left, second class seats.  You can now buy tickets online at www.hzpp.hr.  Exterior photos courtesy of Gareth Davison.

Scenery between Zagreb and Split seen from the train...  Photo courtesy of Páraic Maguire.

Zagreb to Split by overnight sleeper...

The overnight train from Zagreb to Split has a modern air-conditioned sleeping-car with 1, 2 & 3-bed compartments with washbasin - of the same sort that run Munich & Zurich to Zagreb.  See larger sleeper photo...

Option 2, London to Italy by train, ferry to Dubrovnik, Split or Zadar...

• Step 1, travel from London to Ancona or Bari by train, taking a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV from Paris to Milan, stay overnight then take a fast train from Milan to Ancona or Bari.  For train times, fares & how to buy tickets between London and Ancona, see the London to Italy page.  In Ancona, take a taxi to the port, or it's a 30-minute 2.3km walk.  In Bari, take a taxi to the ferry terminal or it's a 25 minute walk.

• Step 2, sail from Italy to Croatia by ferry.  Allow plenty of time for the connection & check-in at Ancona or Bari.

  Several shipping lines sail from Ancona to Split overnight on various days of the week including www.jadrolinija.hr.  Between June & September, there's also a daily fast ferry, taking 4 hours, leaving Ancona at around 11:00 and returning from Split at 17:00, see www.snav.it.   Book the Jadrolinija ferry at the Direct Ferries website or call Jadrolinija's UK agents, Viamare Travel on 020 8343 5810.  There are also some sailings to Zadar.

  www.jadrolinija.hr also sail from Bari to Dubrovnik several times a week in summer (no service in winter), typically sailing at 21:00 and arriving 08:00.  Book the Jadrolinija ferry at the Direct Ferries website or call Jadrolinija's UK agents, Viamare Travel on 020 8343 5810.

  If you can't find a ferry to Dubrovnik, then take a ferry to Split then bus to Dubrovnik.  Buses run from Split to Dubrovnik every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.ak-split.hr (Split bus station arrivals & departures), www.dubrovnik-online.net or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures). 

Ferries in Split Harbour...  Above right, a deluxe cabin on the Blue Line ferry (although Blue Line is sadly no longer operating), which even features an en suite jacuzzi...  Photos courtesy of Andrew Leo.

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London to Hvar, Korčula, Vis, Brač

London to Split by train, then ferry to Hvar, Korčula, Vis, Brač...

This is the fastest & most frequent option.  Runs daily, all year round.

• Step 1, travel from London to Zagreb as shown above. You take a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV Duplex to Munich and a sleeper train to Zagreb.  Or Eurostar & TGV Duplex to Munich, stay there overnight, then take a wonderful scenic daytime train to Zagreb next day.

• Step 2, then travel on from Zagreb to Split either by daytime train or (in summer) the overnight sleeper train, see the London to Split section above.

• Step 3, take a ferry from Split to the islands.  Ferries sail from Split to Hvar, Vis, Korčula and other nearby islands regularly, see www.jadrolinija.hr for ferry times & information.

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London ► Rijeka

• Travel from London to Ljubljana as shown on the Slovenia page, by Eurostar & TGV to Munich, overnight stop in Munich, then the morning train from Munich to Ljubljana.

• Travel from Ljubljana to Rijeka by train.  Even if the EuroCity from Munich is up to half an hour late, you should make the 15:17 train to Rijeka, arriving 18:14.  Indeed, I've known it wait a few minutes for the late-running Sava to arrive from Munich.  Trains only run from Ljubljana to Rijeka twice a day, at 06:35 (arriving Rijeka at 09:24) daily, and 15:10 (arriving 18:03).  You can check train times at www.bahn.de.

Rijeka ► London

• Trains leave Rijeka at 11:50 (arriving Ljubljana at 14:52) and at 20:45 (arriving Ljubljana at 23:39).  Allow plenty of time (an hour or two) to make connections in Ljubljana, and/or stay overnight if necessary.  You can check train times at www.bahn.de.

• Travel from Ljubljana to London as shown on the Slovenia page.

Fares & how to buy tickets

• See the fares in the London-Ljubljana section, and buy tickets from London to Ljubljana as shown there.

• Bought at the station in Ljubljana, the Ljubljana-Rijeka fare is around €17 one-way, €27 return.  Advance reservation isn't necessary for Ljubljana-Rijeka trains, so you can buy a ticket at Ljubljana on the day & hop on, this will be much cheaper than buying a ticket from outside Slovenia.  The ticket office at Ljubljana is easy to find and English is widely spoken.

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London to Porec, Rovinj, Pula

Istria, land of olive oil, wineries and truffles, was once part of the Venetian empire, and after a spell with the Austro-Hungarians it was again part of Italy between the wars.  Even today, the dual-language place names and road signs reveal it's Italian heritage.  For Istrian tourist information, see www.istra.hr.  Now part of Croatia, Istria can be reached overland from the UK in a couple of ways.

Option 1:  By train from London to Ljubljana, then train to Pula... 

• Take any option you like from London to Ljubljana, as shown on the London to Slovenia page.  Stay overnight in Ljubljana if necessary.

• Ljubljana to Pula...

  In summer, a direct train runs at weekends 18 April to 29 August 2020, leaving Ljubljana 06:12 and arriving Pula at 10:43.

  All year, a local train service leaves Ljubljana at 08:15 every day, there's an easy change of train at Divaca & at the Croatian border at Buzet, arriving  change at Pula at 13:03.

  All year, a local train service leaves Ljubljana at 13:35 every day, there's an easy change of train at Divaca & at the Croatian border at Buzet, arriving  change at Pula at 19:10.

  A Pula Special ticket costs €19 one-way or €29 return.  All these trains are 2nd class only, no online booking, just buy at the station.

• Pula to Ljubljana...

  In summer, a direct train runs at weekends 18 April to 29 August 2019, leaving Pula 17:57 and arriving Ljubljana at 22:34.

  All year, a local train leaves Pula at 09:05 every day, with an easy change at the border at Buzet and at Divaca, arriving Ljubljana at 17:05.

  All year, a local train leaves Pula at 14:36 every day, with an easy change at the border at Buzet and at Divaca, arriving Ljubljana at 19:42.

  A Pula Special ticket costs €19 one-way or €29 return.  All these trains are 2nd class only, no online booking, just buy at the station.

• No reservation is necessary, just buy a Ljubljana to Pula ticket at the station, fare €25 one-way or €30 return.

Option 2:  By train from London to Rijeka, then bus to Porec, Rovinj, Buje, Motovun, Pula... 

This is another reliable all-year-round way to reach Istria, as daily mainline trains run to Rijeka and Rijeka is a hub for regular buses serving destinations all over Istria.  First, travel from London to Rijeka as shown above.  On arrival in Rijeka, walk out of the station and turn right.  The bus station is 2 minutes walk straight down this main road, you can't miss it.  Every couple of hours, buses link Rijeka with the historic coastal town of Porec, delightful picturesque Rovinj, and the wonderful roman remains in Pula.  The main bus company is www.autotrans.hr, you can easily buy bus tickets when you get to Rijeka.

Option 3:  By train to Venice, then fast ferry to Porec, Rovinj or Pula... 

This option operates from April to October, and is a great option as it combines Venice with Istria. 

First, travel from London to Venice as shown on the London to Italy page.  For example, travel by Eurostar & TGV to Switzerland, stay the night there, then travel through the Alps to Milan and Venice next day.  The choice is yours. 

Venezia Lines (www.venezialines.com) operate ferries from Venice April-October on various days of the week to Porec, Rovinj (Rovigno in Italian) Umag and Pula (Pola in Italian).  The Venice-Porec ferry crossing takes 2½ hours.  Start by checking the days the ferries operate at www.venezialines.com.  On days when a 17:00 ferry sails from Venice you can leave London in the afternoon on day 1, spend most of day 2 in Venice, and arrive in Porec or Rovinj in the evening of day 2!

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Railbookers custom-made holidays & tours to Slovenia & Croatia by train...

Railbookers can custom-make a flight-free holiday to Croatia with train travel, transfers & hotels all arranged for you, for however long you like, leaving on any date you like.  If you tell them what you want, they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels and sort it all out for you.  They get a lot of repeat business and a lot of recommendation by word of mouth!

  UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk. 

  US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

  Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

  Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website. 

  New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

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European Rail Timetable & maps

The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted.  See an extract from the map.  Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or for £9.67 at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).

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Recommended guidebooks

You should take a good guidebook.  I think that the Lonely Planets and the Rough Guides are easily the best for the independent traveller.  Both guides have plenty of background historical and cultural information, plus lots of practical information.  You won't regret buying one of these guides..!

Click the images to buy at Amazon...

My own book, an essential handbook for train travel to Europe based on this website called "The Man in Seat 61", was published in June 2008, and is available from Amazon.co.uk with shipping worldwide.

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Hotels in Zagreb & Croatia

Recommended hotel in Zagreb: The Esplanade Hotel...

Book a room at the venerable & historic Esplanade Hotel If you can possibly afford it - it's not even expensive by western standards.  Built in 1925 for Orient Express passengers stopping at Zagreb.  It's perfectly located, next to the station and an easy walk from Zagreb old town.  With art deco features, it's the top choice!

For something slightly cheaper, but still close to Zagreb's main station with good or great reviews, try the Palace Hotel, also a historic building with art nouveau features.  I can also recommend the more modern Central Hotel.

Suggested hotels in Split...

For something special if your budget will stretch, try the Murum Heritage Hotel, set in part of Roman emperor Diocletian's palace, right in the centre near the port & city museum.  For something cheaper, but still in that same central historic area, try the Sleep Split Hotel or the ID Regal Residence, both with great reviews.

Other hotel sites worth trying...

www.tripadvisor.com is the place to find independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.

Backpacker hostels...

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in Paris and most other European cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & VPN...

Always take out travel insurance...

Never travel without travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer.  It should also cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy myself.  However, don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, Seat61 gets a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback is always welcome.

In the UK, reliable insurers include Columbus Direct.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65, see www.JustTravelCover.com - 10% discount with code seat61.

You can use www.confused.com to compare prices & policy features across major insurance companies.

        If you live in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct's other websites.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get a Curve card to save on foreign transaction fees...

Banks often give a poor exchange rate, then charge a currency conversion fee as well.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The balance goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to most European addresses including the UK.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, just like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance onto whichever of your debit or credit cards you choose.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I use a Curve Blue card myself - I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I'm recommending it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card - they'll give you £5 cashback through that link, too.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  VPNs & why you need one explained...

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN means your connection to the internet is encrypted & always secure, even using unsecured WiFi.  In countries such as China where access to Twitter & Facebook is restricted, a VPN gets around these restrictions.  And lastly, you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geographic restrictions which some websites apply - for example one booking site charges a booking fee to non-European visitors but none to European visitors, so if you're not located in Europe you can avoid this fee by browsing with a UK IP address using a VPN.  VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy and I use it myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription, and I get a small commission to help support this site.

 

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