The rail way to Croatia!  London to Zagreb in 24 hours...

UK to Croatia by train in 24 hours...

Take a mid-morning Eurostar to Paris, a 200 mph double-deck TGV Duplex to Munich, and an excellent Croatian sleeper train overnight from Munich to Zagreb, arriving next morning.  Or take Eurostar & TGV Duplex to Munich, stay the night in a hotel and take a wonderful scenic ride next day through the mountains across Austria, into Slovenia and along the pretty River Sava to Zagreb.  The choice is yours.  It's safe, civilised, comfortable & affordable and unlike a flight, a truly memorable travel experience.  This page tells you how...

Train times, fares & tickets

On this page you'll find a beginner's guide to arranging train travel to Croatia, with train times, fares & how to buy tickets:

  London to Zagreb

  London to Rijeka

  London to Istria:  Porec, Rovinj, Pula

  London to Split & Zadar

  London to Korcula, Hvar, Vis, Brac by train+ferry

Magnolia blossom in Zagreb.  Croatia is fabulous to visit, from the Adriatic islands to the gracious city of Zagreb to the wineries & olive groves of Istria.  No flights required!

  London to Dubrovnik by train+bus or train+ferry

  Visiting the city of Zagreb

  Hotels in Zagreb, Split & Croatia

  Useful country information - currency, dial code, etc

  Holidays to Slovenia & Croatia by train not plane

  Trains from Croatia to other European cities

  Trains to Croatia from other European cities

Train travel information...

  General information about European train travel

  Taking your bike    Taking your dog    Luggage 

  Travel insurance, EU Health Card, Curve card & VPN

  Buying UK train tickets to connect with Eurostar

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Useful country information

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London to Zagreb

Which route to choose?

Croatia's capital city, Zagreb, is a wonderful city to visit, and it's the hub for trains to Split for onward ferries to Adriatic islands such as Hvar or buses to Dubrovnik.  It's straightforward, safe & comfortable to reach Zagreb by train from the UK.  I show two good options, both of them with a similar range of prices:

• Option 1, Morning Eurostar to Paris, Paris-Munich by TGV, Munich-Zagreb by sleeper:  Take a mid-morning Eurostar to Paris, afternoon high-speed double-decker TGV Duplex to Munich, then the modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeper train Lisinski overnight to Zagreb arriving next morning.  This option isn't as scenic, and it must be booked by phone as it can't be booked online, but it's quicker, very time-effective, and offers a convenient morning arrival in Zagreb, handy for connections to Split or to Sarajevo in Bosnia.

• Option 2, Morning Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Munich, overnight stop, EuroCity train to Zagreb:  For all-daytime train travel with great scenery, take a mid-morning Eurostar to Paris and the afternoon high-speed double-decker TGV Duplex to Munich.  Stay the night in Munich and continue next day through superb Austrian, Slovenian and Croatian landscapes.  This option is longer then the others, but it uses daytime trains throughout, with a hotel stop in Munich.

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Option 1:  Morning Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Munich, sleeper train to Zagreb...

This is the most time-effective option, London to Zagreb in comfort in less than 24 hours.

London ► Zagreb

• Day 1:  Travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:24 on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:47, or at 09:22 on Saturdays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 12:47.  It's a 10 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Day 1:  Travel from Paris to Munich by 200mph double-decker TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:54 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Munich Hbf at 21:36 (21:52 on some dates).  On Saturdays you leave Paris Gare de l'Est at 13:54, change at Stuttgart and arrive Munich Hbf at 19:27 (20:11 on some dates).

  Tip:  In Munich, there's time for dinner while waiting for the sleeper to Budapest, for local Bavarian food and a beer or two try www.augustinerkeller.de at Arnulfstrasse 52, to the north side of Munich Hbf.

• Day 1:  Travel from Munich to Zagreb overnight on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Munich Hbf at 23:20 and arriving at Zagreb at 08:35 next morning (day 2).  The Lisinski has a modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

Zagreb ► London

• Day 1:  Travel from Zagreb to Munich overnight on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Zagreb at 21:20 and arriving in Munich Hbf at 06:10 next morning.  The Lisinski has a modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Day 2:  Travel from Munich to Stuttgart, leaving Munich Hbf at 07:46 by InterCity train arriving Stuttgart at 09:59.  On some Sundays, you'll need to leave earlier, at 07:28 by ICE train arriving Stuttgart at 09:45.

• Day 2:  Travel from Stuttgart to Paris by 200 mph double-decker TGV Duplex, leaving Stuttgart at 10:54 and arriving Paris Gare de l'Est at 14:05.  In Paris, it's a 10-minute walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 2:  Travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 16:07, arriving London St Pancras at 17:39.

How much does it cost?

Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.

How to buy tickets online...

• Step 1, book from London to Munich at raileurope.co.uk.  Tip: I'd first book from London to Paris (and back, if returning), add to basket, then book Paris to Munich, add to basket, and check out.  Remember to allow at least 45 minutes between trains in Paris outwards, 1h15 inwards, preferably more.  A small booking fee applies.

  Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at  www.eurostar.com then book Paris to Munich at the German Railways site www.bahn.de, with no booking fees.

• Step 2, book the Munich-Zagreb sleeper train Lisinski online at www.trainline.eu (in €, £ or $, overseas payment cards no problem) or at the Austrian Railways site www.oebb.at.  Bookings usually open up to 90 days ahead.  You print your own ticket.

How to buy tickets by phone:  UK call 0844 248 248 3, overseas +44 844 248 248 3...

• If you'd prefer to book all your tickets together by phone, just call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, small booking fee. 

• Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's UK office on 08718 80 80 66 (lines open 09:00-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday, no booking fee, 2% credit card charge, no charge for debit cards).

Custom-made travel & hotel arrangements...

• If you want a custom-made trip with rail travel, hotels & transfers all arranged for you, contact Railbookers.  Just tell them what you want, and they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels and sort it all out.  As you're then booking a package, they'll also take care of you if anything happens such as a strike or delay.  They get very positive reviews, and look after their customers very well.

    UK call 020 3327 0761, www.railbookers.co.uk. 

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

    Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

    Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website. 

    New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

What's the journey like?

London to Paris by Eurostar:  See the Eurostar guide....

Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex:  See the TGV Duplex video guide...

Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 200mph, past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart & Munich.

Munich to Zagreb on the sleeper train Lisinski...  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Munich before boarding at a local restaurant, try www.augustinerkeller.de at Arnulfstrasse 52, to the north side of Munich Hbf.

Option 2:  By daytime trains, with overnight stop in Munich...

This option takes longer than the others, but you may prefer daytime travel with a hotel stop rather than using a sleeper, and best of all you get to see rather than sleep through all that wonderful scenery through the mountains across Austria and along the pretty River Sava from Slovenia to Zagreb.

London ► Zagreb

• Day 1:  Travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:24 (12:24 on Saturdays) arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:47 (15:47 on Saturdays).  In Paris it's a 10 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Day 1:  Travel from Paris to Munich by 200mph double-decker TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:54 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Munich Hbf at 21:36 (21:52 on some dates).  On Saturdays it leaves Paris at 17:54 arriving Munich Hbf at 23:29 (23:55 on some dates).  There's a cafe-bar on board, and I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views.  On Saturdays if you'd prefer an earlier arrival in Munich you can also leave London at 09:22 to connect with a TGV leaving Paris at 13:54 for Stuttgart, change there for Munich arriving 19:27 (20:11 on some dates).

  Alternatively, you can travel from London to Munich by Eurostar & ICE train via Brussels & Cologne, see the London to Germany page.

• Stay overnight in Munich:  Try the Sofitel Munich Beyerpost, 25 Hours Hotel Royal Bavarian, Hotel Excelsior, Eden Hotel Wolff, Drei Loewen, or InterCity Hotel, all right next to the station with great reviews.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Zagreb on modern, air-conditioned train, leaving Munich Hbf at 08:17 by smart Austrian railjet train.  You need to make a simple cross-platform change of train at Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border onto a comfy Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train (arrive 12:43, depart 12:53) and you arrive in Zagreb at 17:12.

  A restaurant car is available on the Austrian Railjet train serving drinks, snacks and affordable full meals (treat yourself to an early lunch!), and there's usually a Serbian restaurant car with more limited food on the Villach-Zagreb part of the journey.  Incidentally, the connection in Villach looks tight, but it's just a short walk across the width of a platform between trains and in this direction the Croatian/Slovenian train will (within reason) wait a bit if the Austrian train is late.  There will be lots of people making this connection.

  What's the scenery like?  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  See the photos below...

Zagreb ► London

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Munich by air-conditioned train, leaving Zagreb at 12:35 and arriving in Munich Hbf at 21:42.  You need to make a simple cross-platform change of train at Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, from a comfy Croatian & Slovenian EuroCity train to a smart Austrian railjet train, you arrive 17:09 and leave at 17:16.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery over lunch in the restaurant car.

  Important tip:  In this direction, the Slovenian/Croatian train can run late, but the Austrian train will not wait for it.  I recommend playing safe and taking the earlier direct Zagreb-Munich EuroCity train leaving Zagreb at 06:58 and arriving Munich Hbf at 15:41.

• Stay overnight in Munich:  Try the Sofitel Munich Beyerpost, 25 Hours Hotel Royal Bavarian, Hotel Excelsior, Eden Hotel Wolff, Drei Loewen, or InterCity Hotel, all right next to the station with great reviews.

• Day 2:  Travel from Munich to Paris by 200 mph double-decker TGV Duplex, leaving Munich Hbf at 06:46 (06:22 on some dates, 06:23 on Sundays), arriving Paris Gare de l'Est at 12:33 (12:05 on some Sundays).   In Paris, it's a 10-minute walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 2:  Travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 15:13, arriving London St Pancras at 16:39.

  If you'd prefer a leisurely breakfast and later departure from Munich, there are later options via either Paris or Brussels, see the London to Germany page.

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £44 one-way or £58 return in 2nd class, £112 one-way or £168 return in 1st class.  Like air fares, the price rises as cheaper seats are sold, so book early for the best price.

• Munich to Paris by TGV starts at €39.90 each way in 2nd class or €69.90 in 1st class.

• Munich to Zagreb starts at €39.90 each way in 2nd class, €69.90 in 1st class.

• All these prices vary like air fares, rising as the cheaper tickets are sold and departure date approaches, so book as early as the booking horizon allows.

How to buy tickets online...

• See this section on the London to Germany page for train times, fares & how to buy tickets between London & Munich via Paris.

• See this section on the London to Germany page for train times, fares & how to buy tickets between London & Munich via Brussels & Cologne.

• Then use this special link to the German Railways website www.bahn.de to bring up the Munich-Ljubljana-Zagreb trains and buy your tickets.  It will show if any cheap special fares are available, from €39 each way 2nd class, €69 in 1st class.  Tickets can be sent to any address, or in some cases printed out yourself.  Avoid any departure marked 'BUS' as these are buses not trains (the special link above adds 'Dobova' in the via box as this eliminates the buses from the search results).

  Important tip:  If for any reason the German Railways website says No special fares available and shows only expensive full-flex fares, go to the Austrian Railways site www.oebb.at and book a cheap fare from Salzburg to Zagreb on the same train - Munich-Zagreb trains leave Salzburg about 1h55 after leaving Munich, and ÖBB's cheap fares are called sparschiene.  Now use www.oebb.at again to add a Munich-Salzburg ticket on that same train.  Use those two tickets in combination.

How to buy tickets by phone:  In the UK call 0844 248 248 3...

• If you'd prefer to book all your tickets together by phone, just call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, small booking fee.

• Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's UK office on 08718 80 80 66 (lines open 09:00-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday, no booking fee, 2% credit card charge, no charge for debit cards).

Munich to Zagreb by train...

Now for a real treat.  Sit back with a glass of red, catch up on your reading and enjoy the views...  This is actually two trains, a smart modern Austrian Railjet train with restaurant car from Munich to Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, then a comfortable air-conditioned Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train from Villach to Ljubljana and Zagreb.  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  You make a quick & easy change of train across the platform at Villach, the Croatian train will be waiting for this connection.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  Beyond Ljubljana, the train continues to follow the river Sava, passing through a beautiful river gorge between mountains, a real treat.  Beyond Zidani Most the valley widens into a plain, and you cross the border into Croatia at Dobova and soon arrive in Zagreb's impressive central station, a palace of a building, right in the centre of the city.

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Visiting the city of Zagreb...

Zagreb is a wonderful and much under-rated city.  Small enough to walk around, but with more of a big-city feel than Ljubljana in neighbouring Slovenia.  The station is an impressive landmark in its own right, a palatial building which opens onto a succession of grand park squares, with the main town square (Ban Josip Jelačić) 5-10 minutes walk from the station and the old town two minutes walk behind that.  You'll find tourist information online at www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr, or there's a tourist office on the near right-hand corner of the main city square.  Hotels in Zagreb.  Map of Zagreb.

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London ► Rijeka

• Travel from London to Ljubljana as shown on the Slovenia page, by Eurostar & TGV to Munich, overnight stop in Munich, then the morning train from Munich to Ljubljana.

• Travel from Ljubljana to Rijeka by train.  Even if the EuroCity from Munich is up to half an hour late, you should make the 15:17 train to Rijeka, arriving 18:14.  Indeed, I've known it wait a few minutes for the late-running Sava to arrive from Munich.  Trains only run from Ljubljana to Rijeka twice a day, at 06:35 (arriving Rijeka at 09:24) daily, and 15:10 (arriving 18:03).  You can check train times at www.bahn.de.

Rijeka ► London

• Trains leave Rijeka at 11:50 (arriving Ljubljana at 14:52) and at 20:45 (arriving Ljubljana at 23:39).  Allow plenty of time (an hour or two) to make connections in Ljubljana, and/or stay overnight if necessary.  You can check train times at www.bahn.de.

• Travel from Ljubljana to London as shown on the Slovenia page.

Fares & how to buy tickets

• See the fares in the London-Ljubljana section, and buy tickets from London to Ljubljana as shown there.

• Bought at the station in Ljubljana, the Ljubljana-Rijeka fare is around €17 one-way, €27 return.  Advance reservation isn't necessary for Ljubljana-Rijeka trains, so you can buy a ticket at Ljubljana on the day & hop on, this will be much cheaper than buying a ticket from outside Slovenia.  The ticket office at Ljubljana is easy to find and English is widely spoken.

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London to Porec, Rovinj, Pula

Istria, land of olive oil, wineries and truffles, was once part of the Venetian empire, and after a spell with the Austro-Hungarians it was again part of Italy between the wars.  Even today, the dual-language place names and road signs reveal it's Italian heritage.  For Istrian tourist information, see www.istra.hr.  Now part of Croatia, Istria can be reached overland from the UK in a couple of ways.

Option 1:  By train from London to Ljubljana, then train to Pula... 

• Take any option you like from London to Ljubljana, as shown on the London to Slovenia page.  Stay overnight in Ljubljana if necessary.

• Ljubljana to Pula...

  In summer, a direct train runs at weekends 18 April to 29 August 2020, leaving Ljubljana 06:12 and arriving Pula at 10:43.

  All year, a local train service leaves Ljubljana at 08:15 every day, there's an easy change of train at Divaca & at the Croatian border at Buzet, arriving  change at Pula at 13:03.

  All year, a local train service leaves Ljubljana at 13:35 every day, there's an easy change of train at Divaca & at the Croatian border at Buzet, arriving  change at Pula at 19:10.

  A Pula Special ticket costs €19 one-way or €29 return.  All these trains are 2nd class only, no online booking, just buy at the station.

• Pula to Ljubljana...

  In summer, a direct train runs at weekends 18 April to 29 August 2019, leaving Pula 17:57 and arriving Ljubljana at 22:34.

  All year, a local train leaves Pula at 09:05 every day, with an easy change at the border at Buzet and at Divaca, arriving Ljubljana at 17:05.

  All year, a local train leaves Pula at 14:36 every day, with an easy change at the border at Buzet and at Divaca, arriving Ljubljana at 19:42.

  A Pula Special ticket costs €19 one-way or €29 return.  All these trains are 2nd class only, no online booking, just buy at the station.

• No reservation is necessary, just buy a Ljubljana to Pula ticket at the station, fare €25 one-way or €30 return.

Option 2:  By train from London to Rijeka, then bus to Porec, Rovinj, Buje, Motovun, Pula... 

This is another reliable all-year-round way to reach Istria, as daily mainline trains run to Rijeka and Rijeka is a hub for regular buses serving destinations all over Istria.  First, travel from London to Rijeka as shown above.  On arrival in Rijeka, walk out of the station and turn right.  The bus station is 2 minutes walk straight down this main road, you can't miss it.  Every couple of hours, buses link Rijeka with the historic coastal town of Porec, delightful picturesque Rovinj, and the wonderful roman remains in Pula.  The main bus company is www.autotrans.hr, you can easily buy bus tickets when you get to Rijeka.

Option 3:  By train to Venice, then fast ferry to Porec, Rovinj or Pula... 

This option operates from April to October, and is a great option as it combines Venice with Istria. 

First, travel from London to Venice as shown on the London to Italy page.  You can take an afternoon Eurostar to Paris and the overnight Thello sleeper train to Venice, arriving around 09:25.  Or travel by Eurostar & TGV to Switzerland, stay the night there, then travel through the Alps to Milan and Venice next day.  The choice is yours. 

Venezia Lines (www.venezialines.com) operate ferries from Venice April-October on various days of the week to Porec, Rovinj (Rovigno in Italian) Umag and Pula (Pola in Italian).  The Venice-Porec ferry crossing takes 2½ hours.  Start by checking the days the ferries operate at www.venezialines.com.  On days when a 17:00 ferry sails from Venice you can leave London in the afternoon on day 1, spend most of day 2 in Venice, and arrive in Porec or Rovinj in the evening of day 2!

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London ► Split

• First, travel from London to Zagreb as shown in the London to Zagreb section above, using whichever option suits you best.

• Overnight train to Split:  An overnight train leaves Zagreb daily at 22:56, arriving at Split next morning at 06:45.  It has one comfortable modern sleeping-car with 1, 2 & 3-berth compartments (see the photos below), and 6-berth couchettes.

• Daytime train to Split:  One or two ICN tilting trains link Zagreb with Split every day.  There's a 15:20 from Zagreb all year round arriving Split at 21:21 and an additional 07:35 departure from Zagreb in summer (mid-June to early September) arriving Split at 13:43.

• You can check train times using www.hzpp.hr.  Taking the daytime train is a good option, as Zagreb to Split is a very scenic train ride, with mountains, lakes, rivers, and even vineyards.  The trains are modern and air-conditioned, see the photos below.  ICN trains tilt round the bends on this mountainous route, cutting the journey time to 5½-6 hours from a previous best of around 8 hours.  Seat reservation is compulsory on ICN trains.

Split ► London

• Overnight train from Split to Zagreb:  An overnight train leaves Split at 21:54, arriving Zagreb at 05:49 next morning.  It has one comfortable modern sleeping-car with 1, 2 & 3-berth compartments (see the photos below), and 6-berth couchettes.

• Daytime trains from Split to Zagreb:  You can also travel from Split to Zagreb by fast air-conditioned ICN daytime train through great scenery.  There's  08:27 ICN from Split arriving Zagreb at 14:45 all year round.  In summer, there's an additional 14:21 from Split arriving Zagreb at 20:37.  Simply use www.hzpp.hr to check train times.  Seat reservation is compulsory on ICN trains.  See the photos below.

• Travel from Zagreb to London using any of the options shown in the London to Zagreb section above.  The afternoon ICN from Split connects nicely with the Lisinski sleeper train to Munich for onward TGV to Paris and London, see above.

Fares & how to buy tickets

• For fares from London to Zagreb, see the section above.

• Bought online at www.hzpp.hr or at the station in Zagreb, Zagreb to Split by daytime ICN train costs 208 kuna (£23) in 2nd class or 303 kuna (£34) in 1st class, each way.  If you buy at www.hzpp.hr, you print your own ticket.  Travelling in a 2-berth sleeper on the night train costs around the same as a first class daytime ticket.

• To buy train tickets from the UK to Split:

  Step 1, buy tickets from London to Zagreb online as shown above.

  Step 2, buy a ticket from Zagreb to Split & back at Croatian Railways website www.hzpp.hr and print your own ticket

From Zagreb to Split by air-conditioned ICN train...

Traveller Francis Meylan reports:  "The journey to Split was fascinating and very scenic.  It was a modern diesel train with a free cup of coffee (though no food).  Single track but recently re-engineered and was very smooth despite climbing and very many bends, tunnels, and so forth.  The track went across high embankments and on ledges on valley sides.  It wasn't particularly fast and I can see why.  Every country station had a uniformed station master standing to attention as the train went past!  Many of the country stations were in ruins and there were obvious signs of war damage, walls pock marked with bullet holes.  We could see several minefields marked off.  In Knin the front of the large Austro-Hungarian-style town hall was riddled with bullet holes. Towards Split the landscape is very dry, limestone I think, and very rocky.  If you took the Sleeper would miss all this!

From Zagreb to Split by overnight sleeper...

The overnight train from Zagreb to Split has a modern air-conditioned sleeping-car with 1, 2 & 3-bed compartments with washbasin - of the same sort that run Munich & Zurich to Zagreb.  See larger sleeper photo...

London to Ancona in Italy by train, then ferry to Split or Zadar...

• Travel from London to Ancona by train, taking a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV from Paris to Milan, stay overnight then take a fast train from Milan to Ancona.  For train times, fares & how to buy tickets between London and Ancona, see the London to Italy page.  In Ancona, take a taxi to the port, or it's a 30-minute 2.3km walk.

• Sail from Ancona to Split or Zadar by ferry.  Allow plenty of time for the connection & check-in at Ancona.  Several shipping lines run overnight ferries on various days of the week between Ancona & Split, including www.jadrolinija.hr.  Between June & September, there's also a daily fast ferry, taking 4 hours, leaving Ancona at around 11:00 and returning from Split at 17:00, see www.snav.it.   To book Jadrolinija ships from the UK, contact their UK agents, Viamare Travel on 020 8343 5810.  There are also some sailings to Zadar.

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London to Hvar, Korčula, Vis, Brač

London to Split overland by train, then ferry to Hvar, Korčula, Vis, Brač...

This is the fastest & most frequent option.  Runs daily, all year round.

• Step 1, travel from London to Zagreb as shown above. You take a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV Duplex to Munich and a sleeper train to Zagreb.  Or Eurostar & TGV Duplex to Munich, stay there overnight, then take a wonderful scenic daytime train to Zagreb next day.

• Step 2, then travel on from Zagreb to Split either by daytime train or (in summer) the overnight sleeper train, see the London to Split section above.

• Step 3, take a ferry from Split to the islands.  Ferries sail from Split to Hvar, Vis, Korčula and other nearby islands regularly, see www.jadrolinija.hr for ferry times & information.

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There is no rail link to Dubrovnik, so you will need to reach it either by bus or ferry.  There are two options:

	Adriatic ferry:  The Jadrolinija Ferry Marko Polo.  Photo courtesy of John Allen.

London to Split by train, then bus or ferry to Dubrovnik...

This is the fastest & most frequent option. It runs daily, all year round.

• Step 1, travel from London to Zagreb as shown above.  You take a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV Duplex to Munich and a sleeper train to Zagreb.  Or Eurostar & TGV Duplex to Munich, stay there overnight, then take a wonderful scenic daytime train to Zagreb next day.

• Step 2, then travel on from Zagreb to Split by daytime train or (in summer) the overnight sleeper train, see the London to Split section above.

• Step 3, then take a bus from Split to Dubrovnik.  Buses run every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.ak-split.hr (Split bus station arrivals & departures), www.dubrovnik-online.com or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures).

• Alternatively, a fast catamaran sails along the coast from Split to Dubrovnik once a day in summer, 3 or 4 times a week in the shoulder seasons, no sailings in winter - see www.krilo.hr.  It sails via the islands of Brač, Korčula & Hvar, a very pleasant way to go.

London to Italy by train then ferry to Dubrovnik...

This is arguably the most civilised option, running two or three times a week in winter, up to 6 times a week from each port in summer.

• Step 1, travel from London to either Ancona or Bari by train, taking a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV from Paris to Milan, stay overnight then take a fast train from Milan to Ancona or Bari.  For train times, fares & how to buy tickets between London and Ancona, see the London to Italy page.  In Ancona, take a taxi to the port or it's a 30-minute 2.3km walk.  In Bari, take a taxi or it's a 25 minute walk from station to ferry terminal, which is next to Bari's pleasant old town.

• Step 2, take a ferry from Ancona to Split or from Bari to Dubrovnik.  Allow plenty of time for the connection & check-in at Ancona or Bari.  Several shipping lines run overnight ferries on various days of the week between Ancona & Split, including www.jadrolinija.hr.  Between June & September, there's also a daily fast ferry, taking 4 hours, leaving Ancona at around 11:00 and returning from Split at 17:00, see www.snav.it.   www.jadrolinija.hr have sailings several times a week from Bari to Dubrovnik (although not in winter), typically sailing at 21:00 and arriving 08:00.  To book Jadrolinija ships from the UK, contact their UK agents, Viamare Travel on 020 8343 5810.

• Step 3, if you arrive at Split and want to go to Dubrovnik, take a bus.  Buses run from Split to Dubrovnik every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.ak-split.hr (Split bus station arrivals & departures), www.dubrovnik-online.com or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures).  Alternatively, a fast catamaran sails along the coast from Split to Dubrovnik once a day in summer, 3 or 4 times a week in the shoulder seasons, no sailings in winter - see www.krilo.hr.  It sails via the islands of Brač, Korčula & Hvar, a very pleasant way to go.

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Railbookers custom-made holidays & tours to Slovenia & Croatia by train...

Railbookers can custom-make a flight-free holiday to Croatia with train travel, transfers & hotels all arranged for you, for however long you like, leaving on any date you like.  If you tell them what you want, they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels and sort it all out for you.  They get a lot of repeat business and a lot of recommendation by word of mouth!

  UK call 020 3327 0761, www.railbookers.co.uk. 

  US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

  Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

  Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website. 

  New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

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European Rail Timetable & maps

The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information.  It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.  You can buy it online with worldwide shipping at either www.stanfords.co.uk or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu.  More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.

A Traveller's Railway Map of Europe covers the whole of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south.  On the back are detailed maps of Switzerland, Benelux & Germany, plus city plans showing stations in major cities.  Scenic & high-speed routes highlighted.  Buy it online for £14.50 + postage worldwide (UK addresses £2.80) at www.stanfords.co.uk/Continents/Europe-A-Travellers-Railway-Map_9789077899090.htm or (in the Netherlands) for €13 + €5.50 postage from www.treinreiswinkel.nl.

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Recommended guidebooks

You should take a good guidebook.  I think that the Lonely Planets and the Rough Guides are easily the best for the independent traveller.  Both guides have plenty of background historical and cultural information, plus lots of practical information.  You won't regret buying one of these guides..!

Click the images to buy at Amazon...

My own book, an essential handbook for train travel to Europe based on this website called "The Man in Seat 61", was published in June 2008, and is available from Amazon.co.uk with shipping worldwide.

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Hotels in Zagreb & Croatia

Recommended hotel in Zagreb: The Esplanade Hotel...

• If you can possibly afford it - and it's not even expensive by western standards - book a room at the venerable and historic Esplanade Hotel.  Built in 1925 for Orient Express passengers stopping at Zagreb.  It's perfectly located, next to the station and an easy walk from Zagreb old town.  With art deco features, it's the top choice!

• For something slightly cheaper, but still close to Zagreb's main station with good or great reviews, try the Palace Hotel (also a historic building with art nouveau features) or the more modern Central Hotel.

Other hotel sites worth trying...

www.tripadvisor.com is the place to find independent travellers' reviews of all the main hotels.

Backpacker hostels...

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in Paris and most other European cities at rock-bottom prices.

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Travel insurance & health card...

Take out decent travel insurance, it's essential...

Never travel without proper travel insurance from a reliable insurer with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover loss of cash & belongings (up to a limit), and trip cancellation.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year - I have an annual policy myself.  However, don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here.  Here are some suggested insurers, Seat61 gets a little commission if you buy through these links, and feedback from using insurance for rail & ferry travel is always welcome.

In the UK, use www.confused.com to compare prices & policy features across major insurance companies.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65, see www.JustTravelCover.com - 10% discount with code seat61.

        If you live in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct's other websites.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get an EU health card, it's free...

If you're a UK citizen travelling in Europe, you should apply for a free European Health Insurance Card, which entitles you to free or reduced rate health care if you become ill or get injured in many European countries, under a reciprocal arrangement with the NHS.  This replaced the old E111 forms as from January 2006.  The EHIC card is available from ww.nhs.uk.  It doesn't remove the need for travel insurance, though.

Get a free Curve card to save on exchange rates & foreign transaction fees...

Banks often give you a poor exchange rate, then charge you a currency conversion fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this.  The balance goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.  And you can get a Curve card for free.

How it works:  1. Download the app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to most European addresses including the UK.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, just like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance onto whichever of your debit or credit cards you choose.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself and it's great - I get some commission if you sign up to Curve, but I only recommend such things when I've read up on reviews and tried it myself.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card. Use code MAN61 to get £5 cashback after signing up and using your Curve card the first time.

Get a VPN for safe browsing when you travel.  VPNs & why you need one explained...

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN means your connection to the internet is encrypted & always secure, even using unsecured WiFi.  In countries such as China where access to Twitter & Facebook is restricted, a VPN gets around these restrictions.  And lastly, you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geographic restrictions which some websites apply - for example one booking site charges a booking fee to non-European visitors but none to European visitors, so if you're not located in Europe you can avoid this fee by browsing with a UK IP address using a VPN.  VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy and I use them myself.

 

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