• Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Zurich at the French Railways website www.sncf-connect.com, then Zurich to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  This is more work on multiple websites and sometimes more fiddly, prices should be the same, but no booking fees.

A Eurostar e320 train at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		Standard Premier/Business Premier.  Larger photo.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria...

All TGV-Lyria trains are now 320km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex like the one shown below.  TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes:  Standard class (2nd), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with hot meal & drinks included in the fare).  There's a cafe-bar car selling drinks & snacks.  There are power points for mobiles & laptops at all seats in all classes.  Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways.  More information about TGV-Lyria.

TGV-Lyria TGV Duplex train at Paris Gare de Lyon. More information about TGV-Lyria

Cafe-bar on upper deck car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes...		2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

1st class on the upper deck, with a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right. 360º photo.		A TGV-Lyria for Geneva, boarding at Paris Gare de Lyon.  You enter on the lower deck, with 9 stairs up to top deck.

3. Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper train..  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Zurich before boarding at a local restaurant, try the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB.

The Zurich-Zagreb sleeper train boards at Zurich HB as the sun sets on a summer day.  That's the Croatian couchette car on the right, the Croatian sleeping-car on the left.

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper.		Set up as a single-berth.		4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360º photo.

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava...

Watch the video: Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper...

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Option 3, afternoon Eurostar, Nightjet sleeper to Vienna, EuroCity train to Zagreb...

This is slower than options 1 & 2 because of the time between trains in Vienna, but what's not to like about some time in the Austrian capital?  This is arguably most comfortable option as the Paris-Vienna & Brussels-Vienna Nightjet trains offer some deluxe sleepers with en suite shower & toilet.  Each Nightjet runs 3 times a week, giving an option via Paris 3 days a week and via Brussels 3 days a week.  In Brussels it's a same-station change, in Paris it's a 7-minute 500m walk between the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l'Est, otherwise both routes are very similar.

London ► Zagreb Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays

• Step 1, travel from London to Brussels by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 15:04 arriving Brussels Midi 18:05.

  Tip:  At Brussels Midi, the Pullman Hotel bar makes an excellent VIP waiting room.

• Step 2, travel from Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet, leaving Brussels Midi 19:32 on Mondays, Wednesdays & Fridays, arriving Vienna Hbf 09:19.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet sleeper train has an air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-car with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The sleeping-car attendant can serve drinks, snacks & light meals from a room service menu.  The train has couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  A light breakfast is included in sleepers & couchettes, served in your compartment.  See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  The train travels along the famous Rhine Valley between Koblenz (23:46) and Mainz (00:39), so if you're still awake and your compartment happens to be on the left-hand side of the train, switch off the lights and watch the Rhine pass by, mountains, vineyards, castles & the legendary Lorelei Rock lit by moonlight.  Wonderful!

  In Vienna, you've the best part of a day to enjoy the city.  Left luggage lockers are available.

• Step 3, travel from Vienna to Zagreb by EuroCity train Croatia, leaving Vienna Hbf at 15:58 and arriving Zagreb at 22:30.

  The EuroCity train has comfortable air-conditioned Austrian coaches, and an Austrian restaurant car.  In summer when it's light, enjoy the wonderful scenery over dinner in the restaurant car, including a ride over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.

London ► Zagreb Tuesdays, Fridays & Sundays

• Step 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 14:31 and arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 17:47.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

  Tip:  Have dinner in Paris, see recommended restaurants near the Gare du Nord or near the Gare de l'Est.

• Step 2, travel from Paris to Vienna by Nightjet sleeper train, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 19:58 on Tuesdays, Fridays & Sundays starting 13 December 2021, arriving Vienna Hbf at 10:12.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet train has two air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-cars each with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There's a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The train has a couchette car with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and an ordinary seats car.  See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  There's no restaurant car, but in sleepers or couchettes you can order drinks, snacks and hot dishes from a room service menu, served in your compartment.  The sleeper & couchette fares include a light breakfast with tea or coffee, served in your compartment.

  In Vienna, you've time to enjoy the city.  Left luggage lockers are available.

• Step 3, travel from Vienna to Zagreb by EuroCity train Croatia, leaving Vienna Hbf at 15:58 and arriving Zagreb at 22:30.

  The EuroCity train has comfortable air-conditioned Austrian coaches, and an Austrian restaurant car.  In summer when it's light, enjoy the wonderful scenery over dinner in the restaurant car, including a ride over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.

Zagreb ► London Tuesdays, Thursdays & Sundays

• Step 1, travel from Zagreb to Vienna by EuroCity train Croatia, leaving Zagreb at 07:27 and arriving Vienna Hbf at 14:02.

  The EuroCity train has comfortable air-conditioned Austrian coaches, and an Austrian restaurant car.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery over lunch in the restaurant car, including a ride over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.  In Vienna, you've an afternoon to explore, left luggage lockers are available.

• Step 2, travel from Vienna to Brussels by Nightjet, leaving Vienna Hbf at 20:13 on Tuesdays, Thursdays & Sundays, arriving Brussels Midi 09:52.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet sleeper train has an air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-car with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The sleeping-car attendant can serve drinks, snacks & light meals from a room service menu.  The train has couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats.  A light breakfast is included in sleepers & couchettes, served in your compartment.  See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  Tip:  If you have a ticket for a sleeper, you can use the ÖBB lounge at Vienna Hbf with complimentary refreshments & free WiFi.

  Tip:  On arrival at Brussels Midi, the Pullman Hotel bar makes an excellent VIP waiting room.

• Step 3, travel from Brussels to London by Eurostar, leaving Brussels Midi at 12:56 arriving London St Pancras at 14:00.

Zagreb ► London Mondays, Thursdays & Saturdays

• Step 1, travel from Zagreb to Vienna by EuroCity train Croatia, leaving Zagreb at 07:27 and arriving Vienna Hbf at 14:02.

  The EuroCity train has comfortable air-conditioned Austrian coaches, and an Austrian restaurant car.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery over lunch in the restaurant car, including a ride over the famous UNESCO-listed Semmering Railway south of Vienna, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.  In Vienna, you've an afternoon to explore, left luggage lockers are available.

• Step 2, travel from Vienna to Paris by Nightjet sleeper train, leaving Vienna Hbf at 19:40 on Mondays, Thursdays & Saturdays starting 12 December 2021, arriving Paris Gare de l'Est at 09:42 next morning.

  This comfortable Austrian Nightjet train has two air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-cars each with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There's a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers.  The train has a couchette car with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and an ordinary seats car.  See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.

  There's no restaurant car, but in sleepers or couchettes you can order drinks, snacks and hot dishes from a room service menu, served in your compartment.  The sleeper & couchette fares include a light breakfast with tea or coffee.

  Tip:  If you have a ticket for a sleeper, you can use the ÖBB lounge at Vienna Hbf with complimentary tea, coffee, snacks & WiFi.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord, but I'd allow 2-3 hours between trains in case of delay.

• Step 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:13 daily arriving London St Pancras at 14:30.

How much does it cost?

On the sleeper train, berths are sold individually, so one ticket means one bed, the other beds in your compartment will be sold to other passengers.  For sole occupancy, simply book 1 ticket in a 1-berth sleeper, 2 tickets in a 2-berth sleeper, 4 tickets in a 4-berth couchette & so on.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• It's better to book online.  However, you can book the Eurostar, Thalys & Nightjet by phone with a number of UK agencies, including Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).  Click here for a list of agencies and more information on how to book.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris or Brussels by Eurostar: 

Eurostar trains link London & Brussels in just 2 hours, London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Paris Gare du Nord station guide.  Brussels Midi station guide.  In Brussels, I recommend using the Pullman Hotel bar as your VIP waiting room.

A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		Standard Premier/Business Premier.  Larger photo.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris or Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet:  See the Nightjet guide... 

This is an Austrian Railways (ÖBB) Nightjet train, with sleeping-car, couchettes & seats.  The sleeping-car has 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, plus three deluxe compartments with 1, 2 or 3 beds with private shower & toilet.  The sleeper berths come fully made up with sheets and duvets, all sleeper passengers get mineral water in the evening and a light breakfast served in their compartment next morning.  Towels & toiletries are provided, including shampoo and shower gel in the deluxe sleepers.  In the more economical couchettes, you can book a couchette in a cheaper 6-berth compartment or a less-crowded 4-berth compartment, each provided with sheet, blanket, pillow & small bottle of water, and couchette passengers get a tea or coffee in the morning.  When waiting for the northbound sleeper train in Vienna, if you have booked a sleeper you can use the ÖBB lounge with complimentary refreshments.  More pictures & information about Nightjet trains.

On 20 January 2020, the inaugural Nightjet left Brussels for Vienna, the first scheduled sleeper train to leave Brussels in 16 years.  Above, that inaugural train is seen ready to leave Brussels Midi on 20 January - naturally, the Man in Seat 61 was on board!

Deluxe sleeper.  Each compartment can be used as a 1, 2 or 3-bed room.  Larger photo.  Video of deluxe room		The same deluxe sleeper in evening/morning mode with beds folded away, seats folded out.  Larger photo.		Deluxe rooms have a compact shower & toilet, towels & hair/body wash provided.  Larger photo.		Standard sleeper set up as 2-berth, washstand open.  It can be used as a 1, 2 or 3 berth.  Larger photo.

6-berth couchettes...		4-berth couchettes...		Couchette car on the Brussels-Vienna Nightjet...

3. Vienna to Zagreb by EuroCity train: 

The EuroCity train Croatia has comfortable air-conditioned Austrian cars, some with classic 6-seat compartments, some with open-plan saloons, and an Austrian restaurant car serving snacks, meals, beer and wine.

The EuroCity train Croatia about to leave Vienna Hbf for Zagreb...

1st class open-plan seating as used on the Croatia.  1st class seats in 6-seat compartments are also available.		2nd class compartment as used on the Croatia.  Seats in open plan cars are also available...

The elegant restaurant car.  See larger photo.		Dinner with wine on board...

The Semmering Railway...  Shortly after calling at Vienna Neustadt, the Vienna-Zagreb train travels over the 41km (25 mile) Semmering Railway, opened in 1854 and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.  You'll get these great views southbound in summer when it's light in the evening, and all year round from the northbound train.  Read more about the famous Semmering Railway at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semmering_railway.  Sadly, this slow, curvaceous and steep section of line will be by-passed in the mid-2020s when the new Semmering Base Tunnel opens, though this could save up to 90 minutes.

The train snakes its way over the Semmering Railway, summiting near Semmering itself at 898m (2,946 feet) above sea level.

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Option 4:  By daytime trains, with overnight stop in Munich...

This option takes longer than the others, but if you prefer daytime trains and a hotel to sleeper trains, this is the option for you.  You get to see rather than sleep through all that wonderful scenery through the mountains across Austria and along the pretty River Sava from Slovenia to Zagreb.

London ► Zagreb

• Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:22 on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Nord 13:47.

  On Saturdays, leave London St Pancras at 12:31 arriving Paris Nord at 15:47.

  In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.

• Day 1, travel from Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:55 Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Munich Hbf 21:36.

  On Saturdays it leaves Paris at 17:55 arriving Munich Hbf 23:29.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views.  Times may vary, so check your date at www.bahn.de.

  On Saturdays if you'd prefer an earlier arrival in Munich you can also leave London at 09:31 to connect with a TGV leaving Paris at 13:55 for Stuttgart, change there for Munich arriving 19:27.

  Alternatively, you can travel from London to Munich by Eurostar & ICE train via Brussels & Cologne, see the London to Germany page.

• Stay overnight in Munich:  Try the Sofitel Munich Beyerpost, 25 Hours Hotel Royal Bavarian, Hotel Excelsior, Eden Hotel Wolff, Drei Loewen, or InterCity Hotel, all right next to the station with great reviews.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Zagreb, leaving Munich Hbf at 08:17 by smart Austrian railjet train.  You need to make a simple cross-platform change of train at Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border onto a comfy Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train (arrive 12:43, depart 12:53) and you arrive in Zagreb at 17:07.

  A restaurant car is available on the Austrian railjet train serving drinks, snacks and affordable full meals (treat yourself to an early lunch!).  Incidentally, the connection in Villach looks tight, but it's just a short walk across the width of a platform between trains and in this direction the Croatian/Slovenian train will (within reason) wait a bit if the Austrian train is late.  There will be lots of people making this connection.

  What's the scenery like?  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  See the photos below...

Zagreb ► London

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Munich by Intercity train & railjet, leaving Zagreb at 12:47 and arriving Munich Hbf at 21:41. 

  You need to make a simple cross-platform change of train at Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, from a comfy Croatian & Slovenian InterCity train to a smart Austrian railjet train, you arrive 17:08 & leave at 17:16.  Enjoy the wonderful scenery on this route.

  Important tip:  In this direction, the Slovenian/Croatian train can run late, but the Austrian train will not wait for it.  I recommend playing safe and taking the earlier direct Zagreb-Munich EuroCity train leaving Zagreb at 07:03 and arriving Munich Hbf at 15:41.

• Stay overnight in Munich:  Try the Sofitel Munich Beyerpost, 25 Hours Hotel Royal Bavarian, Hotel Excelsior, Eden Hotel Wolff, Drei Loewen, or InterCity Hotel, all right next to the station with great reviews.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Paris by TGV Duplex, leaving Munich Hbf at 06:46 & arriving Paris Gare de l'Est at 12:31.

  The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.  I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views, see this video.  Times may vary, so check your date at www.bahn.de.

  If you'd prefer a leisurely breakfast & later departure from Munich there are various later options, see the London to Germany page.

  In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.

• Day 2, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, normally leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 15:13, arriving London St Pancras 16:30 (16:37 Sundays).

How much does it cost?

• London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £115 one-way, £199 return standard premier (1st class).

• Paris to Munich by TGV starts at €39 each way in 2nd class or €69 in 1st class.

• Munich to Zagreb starts at €39.90 each way in 2nd class, €69.90 in 1st class.

• All these prices vary like air fares, rising as the cheaper tickets are sold and departure date approaches, so book as early as the booking horizon allows.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, book the Eurostar at www.eurostar.com.

  Booking opens up to 180 days ahead, but I recommend waiting until onward trains are open for booking so their times can be confirmed, before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket.  More information about when bookings open.

  If you're returning, London to Paris should be booked as a round trip because Eurostar return fares are significantly less than two one-ways.  All onward trains beyond Paris are one-way ticketed so a return is simply two one ways and you might find it easier to book one way at a time. 

  You print your own tickets or can load them into the Eurostar app to show on your smartphone.

• Step 2, book the Paris-Munich ticket at the German Railways website www.bahn.de. 

  Booking opens up to 120 days ahead.  Look for the direct TGV with 0 changes, or if not running on your date, for a journey with just 1 change.  You print your own ticket or can show it on your smartphone.

• Step 3, now use this special link to www.bahn.de to book your trains from Munich to Zagreb.

  It will show if any cheap Sparpreis fares are available.  Tickets can be sent to any address worldwide for a small fee or in some cases printed out yourself.

  Tip:  If for any reason the German Railways website says No special fares available and shows only expensive full-flex fares, go to the Austrian Railways site www.oebb.at and book a cheap fare from Salzburg to Zagreb on the same train - Munich-Zagreb trains leave Salzburg about 1h55 after leaving Munich, and ÖBB's cheap fares are called sparschiene.  Now use www.oebb.at again to add a Munich-Salzburg ticket on that same train.  Use those two tickets in combination.

How to buy tickets by phone...

• It's better to book online, as you avoid phone booking fees and can see for yourself which departures have the cheapest fares.  But if you want to book by phone, call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).  Other agencies selling European tickets by phone.

Let Railbookers arrange it as a package...

• Railbookers are a train travel specialist who can put together a tour or holiday as a package, including rail travel, hotels & transfers.  Their website shows a range of suggested tours & holidays which can be varied or customised to your requirements.  As you're booking a package, they'll take care of you if anything happens to one part of the itinerary such as a strike or delay.

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk. 

    US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.

    Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.

    Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website. 

    New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Paris by Eurostar...

Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph).  There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi.  Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00).  There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train.  More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure.  St Pancras station guide.  Gare du Nord station guide.

A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras.  More about Eurostar.		1st class:  Standard Premier or Business Premier.

Standard class seats.  Larger photo.		One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9.  Larger photo.

2. Paris to Munich by TGV Duplex...   See the video guide

In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany.  Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views.  The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.  The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region.  An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg.  On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower.  Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart & Munich.  Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.  Munich Hbf station guide.

TGV Duplex at Paris Est. These impressive 320 km/h double-deck trains link Paris with Stuttgart & Munich...

Cafe-bar on upper deck in car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes.		2nd class seats on the upper deck.  There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating.  360º photo.

1st class seats on upper deck, a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right.  360º photo.		A TGV Duplex.  The red near the door indicates 1st class, pale green indicates 2nd class.

3. Munich to Zagreb by train...

Now for a real treat.  Sit back with a glass of red, catch up on your reading and enjoy the views...  This is actually two trains, a smart modern Austrian Railjet train with restaurant car from Munich to Villach on the Austrian/Slovenian border, then a comfortable air-conditioned Slovenian & Croatian EuroCity train from Villach to Ljubljana and Zagreb.  After leaving the Munich suburbs the train snakes through pretty Bavarian scenery to Salzburg, past churches and picturesque villages.  Just before arriving at Salzburg, look to your right as you cross the River Salzach for great views of Salzburg citadel.  Soon after Salzburg, the train enters the Austrian Alps proper, climbing through vast mountains.  Look out for the magnificent fortress at Werfen (although the train doesn't call here), perched on its hilltop on the right hand side, guarding the approaches to Salzburg along the Salzachtal valley.  You make a quick & easy change of train across the platform at Villach, the Croatian train will be waiting for this connection.  After entering Slovenia, the scenery flattens out, and the train snakes along the pretty river Sava all the way into Ljubljana.  Beyond Ljubljana, the train continues to follow the river Sava, passing through a beautiful river gorge between mountains, a real treat.  Beyond Zidani Most the valley widens into a plain, and you cross the border into Croatia at Dobova and soon arrive in Zagreb's impressive central station, a palace of a building, right in the centre of the city.

A railjet about to leave Munich Hbf...

Business class.  About.		Restaurant car.

First class.		Economy class.

Through the Austrian Alps...  Clinging to the mountainside high in the Austrian Alps, the railjet snakes along between snow-capped mountains, absolutely wonderful.  There's a quick cross-platform change of train at Villach onto a Slovenian & Croatian train called the Sava...

...and along the Sava river in Slovenia.  Now across the border in Slovenia, the EuroCity train runs along the pretty River Sava all the way to Ljubljana & Zagreb...		Comfortable seats:  The 2nd class seats in the Slovenian cars are arranged 2+1 abreast, the same as 1st class!

More lovely scenery along the Sava between Ljubljana & Zagreb...

The EuroCity train Sava, arrived at Zagreb.		Scenery along the Sava between Ljubljana & Zagreb.

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Option 5:  Via the Harwich-Hoek van Holland ferry...

This is the ferry alternative!  It's a great option if you live in East Anglia, if Eurostar is too expensive or if you want to avoid the Channel Tunnel, for example if you suffer from claustrophobia.  I don't recommend the Dover-Calais route because of poor train/ferry connections, the Stena Line rail & sail service via Harwich & Hoek van Holland is the one to use as it has co-ordinated timetables and integrated ticketing, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page & watch the video.

London, Cambridge & Harwich ► Zagreb

• Day 1, travel from London to Amsterdam overnight by Stena Line Rail & Sail.

  You leave London Liverpool Street at 18:45 Mondays-Fridays, 19:36 Saturdays or 20:00 Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.

  You leave Cambridge at 19:47 Mondays-Saturdays or 19:45 on Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.

  At Harwich, the station is right next to the ferry terminal and you walk off the train into the terminal, check in at the Stena Line desk and walk straight onto Stena Line's luxurious overnight superferry Stena Britannica to Hoek van Holland.

  All passengers travel in cosy private cabins with en suite toilet & shower & satellite TV.  Deluxe Comfort class & Captains class cabins are also available, and there's free WiFi in the lounges, restaurants & bars on 9 deck.  You can get on board the ferry around 9pm, have a late dinner in the restaurant and settle into your cabin.

  The ferry sails at 23:00 and arrives at Hoek van Holland at 08:00 Dutch time next morning.  This London-Netherlands train & ferry service is a fully-integrated service with special fares from London to Any Dutch Station which cover the train to Harwich, the ferry and onward train to anywhere in the Netherlands, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.  The same special fare from London is valid from any Abellio Greater Anglia station, for example Norwich, Cambridge, Romford, Ilford, Ipswich.  

  Next morning, take the frequent metro train from Hoek van Holland Haven to Schiedam Centrum and a Dutch Intercity train from Schiedam Centrum to Amsterdam Centraal arriving 10:25.  See the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.

  At Amsterdam Centraal, have a coffee at the delightfully retro Cafe 1e Klas.

• Day 2, travel from Amsterdam to Munich on ICE trains, leaving Amsterdam Centraal at 12:38, changing at Frankfurt (Main) Hbf & arriving Munich Hbf at 20:07.  The ICE trains have a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

  In Munich, there's time for dinner while waiting for the sleeper, for local Bavarian food and a beer or two I recommend the Augustiner Keller (www.augustinerkeller.de) at Arnulfstrasse 52, a few minutes walk on the north side of Munich Hbf.  See walking map.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Zagreb on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Munich Hbf at 23:20 & arriving Zagreb at 08:32 next morning (day 3).

  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

Zagreb  ► Harwich, Cambridge & London

• Day 1, travel from Zagreb to Munich on the sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Zagreb at 21:27 & arriving Munich Hbf at 06:29 next morning.

  The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended).  Watch the Croatian sleeper video.

• Day 2, travel from Munich to Amsterdam on ICE trains, leaving Munich Hbf at 07:47, changing at Frankfurt (Main) Hbf, arriving Amsterdam Centraal at 15:29.  The ICE trains have a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

• Day 2, travel from Amsterdam to London overnight by Stena Line Rail & Sail.

  You leave Amsterdam Centraal at 18:35 by Dutch intercity train to Schiedam Centrum and change onto the frequent metro to Hoek van Holland Haven.  At Hoek, the metro station is next to the ferry terminal.  Check in at the Stena Line desk at least 45 minutes before sailing time, then walk up the gangway onto the luxurious Stena Line superferry Stena Hollandica and sail overnight to Harwich in a cosy private cabin with shower, toilet & satellite TV.

  The ferry sails from Hoek van Holland at 22:00 and arrives at Harwich International at 06:30 next morning (day 3), UK time.  Day 3, take a train from Harwich to London Liverpool Street arriving around 08:54 or from Harwich to Cambridge, arriving 09:42 (10:39 Sundays).  See the Stena Line Rail & Sail page for full details.

How much does it cost?

• London to Amsterdam by Rail & Sail starts at £55 per person each way, plus the cost of a cabin.

  Cabins start at £34 for a single berth cabin or £45 per cabin for a 2-berth, and are compulsory on the night sailing.  The fare covers the train from London to Harwich, the ferry, and onward Dutch metro & trains from Hoek van Holland Haven to any station in the Netherlands, for full details of fares and cabin types and costs, see the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.

• Amsterdam to Munich starts at €37.90 each way in 2nd class or €69.90 in 1st class. 

• Munich to Zagreb by sleeper train starts at €49.90 with a couchette in 6-berth, €59.90 with a couchette in 4-berth, €69.90 with a bed in a 3-bed sleeper, €89.90 with a bed in a 2-bed sleeper or €129.90 with a bed in a single-bed sleeper all to yourself.

How to buy tickets...

• Step 1, buy a Stena Line Rail & Sail ticket from London to Any Dutch Station online as shown on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.  This covers the train from London to Harwich, the Harwich-Hoek ferry, and the metro/train from Hoek to Amsterdam.  You print your own ticket.

• Step 2, book the train from Amsterdam to Munich at www.bahn.de,  You print your own ticket.

• Step 3, book the sleeper from Munich to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com or the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.  Booking opens up to 6 months ahead, you print your own ticket.

What's the journey like?

1. London to Amsterdam by train & ferry... 

A train takes you from London's Liverpool Street station directly to the ferry terminal at Harwich.  You walk off the train, into the terminal, get your boarding card & cabin key at the Stena Line check-in desk and walk straight onto the overnight ferry to Hoek van Holland.  The superferry Stena Britannica is the largest ferry of its kind in the world.  All passengers travel in private cabins with shower, toilet & satellite TV.  There's free WiFi in the public areas on 9 deck.  The journey from London to Holland is explained in detail on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.  See the video...

Captain's Class cabin on the Harwich-Hoek ferry with double bed, complimentary minibar with sparkling wine, tea & coffee making facilities, hairdryer.  Larger photo.		Boarding the Stena Britannica at Harwich.  She's a floating hotel to Hoek van Holland, with easy rail connections on either side of the Channel.  Restaurants, bars, shop, kennels, cinema...

Dinner before bed?  Metropolitan à la carte restaurant.		Standard outside cabin.  Larger photo.  360º photo.

2. Amsterdam to Duisburg & Duisburg to Munich by ICE...

ICEs are German Railways' premier trains, with 1st & 2nd class, a bistro-restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.

An ICE3M to Frankfurt at Amsterdam.  More information about ICE...

2nd class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.		1st class seats on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

Proper china, metal cutlery.  I recommend the Erdinger Weissbier!  See current month's menu.		Restaurant car:  This is the small 12-seat restaurant area on an ICE3M.  Larger photo.

3. Munich to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski...  Watch the video

This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.  There's time for dinner in Munich before boarding at a local restaurant, I recommend the typically Bavarian www.augustinerkeller.de at Arnulfstrasse 52, to the north side of Munich Hbf.  See walking map.

Above, the air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car from Munich to Zagreb is boarding on platform 12 at Munich Hbf.  It has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as 1, 2 or 3 berth, with toilets at the end of the corridor.  Compartments convert to a private sitting room for evening or morning use.  A light breakfast is included in the sleeper fare. The Croatian couchette car is the next vehicle to the right, also modern & air-conditioned with 4 & 6 bunk compartments, ideal for families.  Couchettes convert from bunks to seats for evening or morning use.

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper.		Set up as a single-berth.		4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360º photo.

Wake up to scenery like this between Ljubljana & Zagreb, along the river Sava...

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Option 1, London to Split & Dubrovnik by train...

London ► Split, Dubrovnik

• Step 1, travel from London to Zagreb as shown in the London to Zagreb section above, using whichever option suits you best.

• Step 2, travel from Zagreb to Split by train...

  One or two ICN tilting trains link Zagreb with Split every day. 

  Zagreb depart 07:30, Split arrive 13:53.  Runs mid-June to early September.

  Zagreb depart 15:20, Split arrive 21:30.  Runs daily all year round.

  You can check train times using www.hzpp.hr.  Zagreb to Split is a very scenic train ride, with mountains, lakes, rivers, and even vineyards.  The trains are modern and air-conditioned, see the photos below.  ICN trains tilt round the bends on this mountainous route, cutting the journey time to 5½-6 hours from a previous best of around 8 hours.  Seat reservation is compulsory on ICN trains.

• Step 3, travel the last short hop along the Adriatic coast from Split to Dubrovnik.

  Buses run every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.ak-split.hr (Split bus station arrivals & departures), www.dubrovnik-online.net or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures).

  Alternatively, a fast catamaran sails along the coast from Split to Dubrovnik once a day in summer, 3 or 4 times a week in the shoulder seasons, no sailings in winter - see www.krilo.hr.  It sails via the islands of Brač, Korčula & Hvar, a very pleasant way to go.

Dubrovnik, Split ► London

• Step 1, travel from Dubrovnik to Split...

  Buses run every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.dubrovnik-online.net or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures).

  Alternatively, a fast catamaran sails along the coast from Dubrovnik to Split once a day in summer, 3 or 4 times a week in the shoulder seasons, no sailings in winter - see www.krilo.hr.  It sails via the islands of Brač, Korčula & Hvar, a very pleasant way to go.

• Step 2, travel from Split to Zagreb by train...

  You can travel from Split to Zagreb by fast air-conditioned ICN daytime train through great scenery.

  Split depart 08:30, Zagreb arrive 14:54.  Runs daily all year round.

  Split depart 14:25, Zagreb arrive 20:57.  Runs mid-June to early September.

  Use www.hzpp.hr to check train times.  Seat reservation is compulsory on ICN trains.  See the photos below.

• Step 3, travel from Zagreb to London by train using any of the options shown in the London to Zagreb section above.  The afternoon ICN from Split connects nicely with the Lisinski sleeper train to Munich for onward TGV to Paris and London, see above.

Fares & how to buy tickets

• For fares from London to Zagreb, see the section above.

• Bought online at www.hzpp.hr or at the station in Zagreb, Zagreb to Split by daytime ICN train costs 208 kuna (£23) in 2nd class or 303 kuna (£34) in 1st class, each way.  If you buy at www.hzpp.hr, you print your own ticket.  Travelling in a 2-berth sleeper on the night train costs around the same as a first class daytime ticket.

• To buy train tickets from the UK to Split:

  Step 1, buy tickets from London to Zagreb online as shown above.

  Step 2, buy a ticket from Zagreb to Split & back at Croatian Railways website www.hzpp.hr and print your own ticket.

Zagreb to Split by ICN train...

Traveller Francis Meylan reports:  "The journey to Split was fascinating and very scenic.  It was a modern diesel train with a free cup of coffee (though no food).  Single track but recently re-engineered and was very smooth despite climbing and very many bends, tunnels, and so forth.  The track went across high embankments and on ledges on valley sides.  It wasn't particularly fast and I can see why.  Every country station had a uniformed station master standing to attention as the train went past!  Many of the country stations were in ruins and there were obvious signs of war damage, walls pock marked with bullet holes.  We could see several minefields marked off.  In Knin the front of the large Austro-Hungarian-style town hall was riddled with bullet holes. Towards Split the landscape is very dry, limestone I think, and very rocky.  If you took the Sleeper would miss all this!

The daytime trains to Split:  These fast, tilting, air-conditioned ICN trains link Zagreb & Split once or twice a day through great scenery.  Above right, first class seats on the train to Split.  below left, second class seats.  You can now buy tickets online at www.hzpp.hr.  Exterior photos courtesy of Gareth Davison.

Scenery between Zagreb and Split seen from the train...  Photo courtesy of Páraic Maguire.

Option 2, London to Italy by train, ferry to Dubrovnik, Split or Zadar...

• Step 1, travel from London to Ancona or Bari by train, taking a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV from Paris to Milan, stay overnight then take a fast train from Milan to Ancona or Bari.  For train times, fares & how to buy tickets between London and Ancona, see the London to Italy page.  In Ancona, take a taxi to the port, or it's a 30-minute 2.3km walk.  In Bari, take a taxi to the ferry terminal or it's a 25 minute walk.

• Step 2, sail from Italy to Croatia by ferry.  Allow plenty of time for the connection & check-in at Ancona or Bari.

  Several shipping lines sail from Ancona to Split overnight on various days of the week including www.jadrolinija.hr.  Between June & September, there's also a daily fast ferry, taking 4 hours, leaving Ancona at around 11:00 and returning from Split at 17:00, see www.snav.it.   Book the Jadrolinija ferry at the Direct Ferries website or call Jadrolinija's UK agents, Viamare Travel on 020 8343 5810.  There are also some sailings to Zadar.

  www.jadrolinija.hr also sail from Bari to Dubrovnik several times a week in summer (no service in winter), typically sailing at 21:00 and arriving 08:00.  Book the Jadrolinija ferry at the Direct Ferries website or call Jadrolinija's UK agents, Viamare Travel on 020 8343 5810.

  If you can't find a ferry to Dubrovnik, then take a ferry to Split then bus to Dubrovnik.  Buses run from Split to Dubrovnik every hour or two, taking about 4-5 hours.  Bus information can be found at www.ak-split.hr (Split bus station arrivals & departures), www.dubrovnik-online.net or www.libertasdubrovnik.hr (Dubrovnik bus station departures). 

Ferries in Split Harbour...  Above right, a deluxe cabin on the Blue Line ferry (although Blue Line is sadly no longer operating), which even features an en suite jacuzzi...  Photos courtesy of Andrew Leo.

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London to Hvar, Korčula, Vis, Brač

London to Split by train, then ferry to Hvar, Korčula, Vis, Brač...

This is the fastest & most frequent option.  Runs daily, all year round.

• Step 1, travel from London to Zagreb as shown above. You take a morning Eurostar to Paris, the afternoon TGV Duplex to Munich and a sleeper train to Zagreb.  Or Eurostar & TGV Duplex to Munich, stay there overnight, then take a wonderful scenic daytime train to Zagreb next day.

• Step 2, then travel on from Zagreb to Split either by daytime train or (in summer) the overnight sleeper train, see the London to Split section above.

• Step 3, take a ferry from Split to the islands.  Ferries sail from Split to Hvar, Vis, Korčula and other nearby islands regularly, see www.jadrolinija.hr for ferry times & information.

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