London to Bulgaria by train, a 48 hour Balkan adventure
It's not difficult to travel to Bulgaria by train, in fact it's a safe, comfortable and interesting journey. The train ride from London to Bulgaria takes as little as 2 nights, with a variety of possible routes and options. The train times, fares, and how best to buy tickets are all explained on this page.
Train times, fares & tickets
Trains to Sofia from other European
cities
Trains from Sofia to
other European cities
Sofia Central Station location &
facilities
General information about train travel in
Europe
Luggage
Taking bikes
Taking dogs
Route map: London to Sofia by train
Useful country information
London to Sofia by train
London to Sofia via Romania is a long way round compared to the traditional direct route through Belgrade, but with the Zagreb-Belgrade train suspended since the pandemic and the Belgrade-Sofia route also screwed up, the route via Romania is the viable one.
Option 1, Eurostar to Brussels or Paris, Nightjet sleeper train to Vienna and connecting train to Budapest, sleeper train to Bucharest, daytime train to Sofia.
Option 2, the ferry alternative. London to Amsterdam via the Harwich-Hoek ferry, then by train from Amsterdam to Sofia via Vienna, Budapest & Bucharest.
Option 1, London to Sofia via Vienna, Budapest & Bucharest
London ► Sofia
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Day 1, travel from London to Vienna using an afternoon Eurostar from London to Paris or Brussels, then the 3-times-a-week Nightjet sleeper train from Paris to Vienna or the 3-times-a-week Nightjet sleeper train from Brussels to Vienna. See the London to Austria page for details.
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Day 2, travel from Vienna to Budapest by railjet train, leaving Vienna Hbf at 11:40 and arriving Budapest Keleti at 14:19.
The swish Austrian railjet train has a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. By all means take an earlier train if you'd like more time in Budapest, perhaps for lunch.
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Day 2, travel from Budapest to Bucharest on the sleeper train Muntenia, leaving Budapest Keleti at 15:10 and arriving Bucharest Nord at 08:42.
The Muntenia has 4 & 6-berth couchettes and ordinary seats. A Romanian sleeping-car with cosy 1, 2 & 3-bed compartments is attached from Arad (depart 21:04) to Bucharest. There's no catering car, so bring your own food & drink.
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Day 3, travel from Bucharest to Sofia as shown on the trains from Bucharest page, leaving Bucharest Nord 10:55, arriving Sofia Central 20:10.
In summer from early June to early October this is a direct train, in winter you have to switch trains at Ruse. There's no catering car, so bring your own food & drink. The train crosses the Danube from Giurgiu in Romania to Ruse in Bulgaria over Europe's longest steel bridge, 2.5 km long, then it meanders through the scenic river valleys of Bulgaria. Put your feet up and enjoy the ride.
Sofia ► London
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Day 1, travel from Sofia to Bucharest, leaving Sofia Central at 07:10 and arriving Bucharest Nord at 17:00.
In summer from early June to early October this is a direct train, or rather, one 2nd class Sofia-Bucharest through coach with side corridor & compartments. The other cars in this train run between Sofia & Ruse.
At other times of year it's two separate trains either side of Ruse, arrive 13:35, depart 14:15. You change at Ruse from a Bulgarian train into a modern air-conditioned Romanian diesel unit for the last leg to Bucharest, although the end-to-end timings are exactly the same.
There's no catering so bring a picnic and some wine or beer, a good book, and enjoy the ride. It's a lovely scenic route, meandering at leisurely speed through the beautiful green valleys of Bulgaria. You then cross the Danube from Ruse in Bulgaria to Giurgiu in Romania over Europe's longest steel bridge, 2.5 km long.
Enjoy an evening in Bucharest and have dinner.
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Day 1, travel from Bucharest to Budapest by sleeper train Muntenia, leaving Bucharest Nord at 21:00 and arriving Budapest Keleti at 12:50.
The Muntenia has 4 & 6-berth couchettes and ordinary seats. A Romanian sleeping-car with cosy 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments is attached from Bucharest as far as Arad (arrive 08:54). There's no catering car, so bring your own food & drink.
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Day 2, travel from Budapest to Vienna by EuroCity train, leaving Budapest Keleti at 14:40 and arriving Vienna Hbf at 17:20.
An earlier connection is possible, but I'd allow for delay and book this one.
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Day 2, travel from Vienna to Brussels or Paris by Nightjet sleeper train then take Eurostar to London, see the London to Austria page for details. Each sleeper train (Vienna-Paris & Vienna-Brussels) runs 3 times a week. You arrive in London on Day 3.
How much does it cost?
How to buy tickets
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Step 1, book the Eurostar from London to Paris or Brussels at www.thetrainline.com (easy to use, in , £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem, small booking fee) and add to basket.
Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket or can load it into the Eurostar app to show on your phone.
Tip: If you're returning, you should book Eurostar as a round trip, because Eurostar return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways. With all the other trains it doesn't matter, as a return is simply two one-ways.
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Step 2, book the sleeper train from Paris or Brussels to Vienna at www.thetrainline.com and add to basket.
You can book one-way or round trip in either direction, remember the sleeper runs 3 times a week from Paris, 3 times a week from Brussels. Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket. You can also boo at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at.
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Step 3, book the train from Vienna to Budapest at www.thetrainline.com, add to basket and check out.
You can book one-way or round trip in either direction. Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
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Step 4, book a couchette from Budapest to Bucharest at the Romanian Railways international website bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro.
You can book one-way or round trip in either direction. Booking opens 60 days ahead. You print your own ticket.
If you want the comfort & privacy of a proper sleeper from Arad to Bucharest, (1) book a 2nd class seat from Budapest to Arad from 17 using bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro. You print your own ticket. (2) Now book berths in a 1, 2 or 3-bed sleeper from Arad to Bucharest Nord at the Romanian Railways domestic website bilete.cfrcalatori.ro and print your own ticket.
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Step 5, book the train from Bucharest to Sofia at the Romanian Railways website bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro.
The ticket must be collected at the international booking office at Bucharest Gara de Nord. If you're returning, you can book a round trip ticket and collect it in Bucharest. However, for one-way tickets in the Sofia to Bucharest direction you cannot book online, so buy this ticket at the international ticket windows at Sofia station. There are always places, even on the day of travel.
What's the journey like?
1. London to Paris or Brussels by Eurostar
Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, London & Brussels in just 2 hours, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph). There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi. Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00). There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train. More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure. St Pancras station guide. Brussels Midi station guide. In Brussels, I recommend using the Pullman Hotel bar as your VIP waiting room.
2. Paris or Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet See the Nightjet guide
This is an Austrian Railways (ΦBB) Nightjet train, with sleeping-car, couchettes & seats. The sleeping-car has 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, plus three deluxe compartments with 1, 2 or 3 beds with private shower & toilet. The sleeper berths come fully made up with sheets and duvets, all sleeper passengers get mineral water in the evening and a light breakfast served in their compartment next morning. Towels & toiletries are provided, including shampoo and shower gel in the deluxe sleepers. In the more economical couchettes, you can book a couchette in a cheaper 6-berth compartment or a less-crowded 4-berth compartment, each provided with sheet, blanket, pillow & small bottle of water, and couchette passengers get a tea or coffee in the morning. When waiting for the northbound sleeper train in Vienna, if you have booked a sleeper you can use the ΦBB lounge with complimentary refreshments. More pictures & information about Nightjet trains.
3. Vienna to Budapest by Railjet
Railjets are ΦBB's (Austrian Railways) premier trains, with economy & 1st class, plus a premium 1st class called business class. There's a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. In 1st & business class, restaurant car orders are taken and served at your seat. More about railjets. Budapest Keleti station guide.
4. Budapest to Bucharest on the sleeper train Muntenia
The train has a Romanian couchette car with 4 & 6-bunk compartments, these convert from seats to bunks at night will sheet, pillow and blanket provided. There are toilets & washrooms at the end of the corridor. A sleeping-car is attached from Timisoara to Bucharest with cosy 1, 2 & 3-bed compartments with washbasin.
Option 2, London to Sofia via Hoek van Holland & Bucharest
This is the ferry alternative, a version of option 3 that substitutes rail & sail for Eurostar. If you live in East Anglia or prefer a ferry to Eurostar and the Channel Tunnel for some reason, this is a useful alternative. It's often cheaper than Eurostar at short notice.
London ► Sofia
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Day 1, travel from London to Amsterdam overnight by Stena Line Rail & Sail explained in detail here.
You leave London Liverpool Street at 18:45 Mondays-Fridays, 19:36 Saturdays or 20:00 Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.
You leave Cambridge at 19:47 Mondays-Saturdays or 19:45 on Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.
You sleep in a cosy private cabin with shower, toilet & satellite TV on board Stena Line's Harwich-Hoek superferry 21:00-08:00, and arrive Amsterdam around 10:30 next morning.
Fares start at £62 + cabin cost.
Book this as shown on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.
Enjoy a day in Amsterdam.
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Day 2, travel from Amsterdam to Vienna by Nightjet sleeper train, leaving Amsterdam Centraal at 19:00 and arriving Vienna Hbf at 09:17.
This comfortable Austrian Nightjet train has an air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-car with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers. The sleeping-car attendant can serve drinks, snacks & light meals from a room service menu. The train has couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats. A light breakfast is included in sleepers & couchettes, served in your compartment. See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.
Fares start at 49.90 in 6-berth couchettes, 59.90 in 4-berth couchettes, 89.90 in a 3-bed sleeper, 109.90 in a 2-bed sleeper or 159.90 in a single-bed sleeper, all per person per berth.
Book this train at www.thetrainline.com (in , £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem, small booking fee) or Austrian Railways own site www.oebb.at (same prices, in , more fiddly). Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
Tip: If you have a sleeper ticket and/or 1st class ticket for the onward train to Budapest, you can use the ΦBB lounge at Vienna Hbf between trains, with complimentary tea, coffee, snacks & free WiFi.
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Day 3, now continue from Vienna to Sofia as shown in option 1 above.
Sofia ► London
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Days 1 & 2, travel from Sofia to Vienna as shown in option 1 above.
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Day 2, travel from Vienna to Amsterdam by Nightjet sleeper train, leaving Vienna Hbf at 20:10 & arriving Amsterdam Centraal 09:59.
This comfortable Austrian Nightjet train has an air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-car with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers. The sleeping-car attendant can serve drinks, snacks & light meals from a room service menu. The train has couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats. A light breakfast is included in sleepers & couchettes, served in your compartment. See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.
Fares start at 49.90 in 6-berth couchettes, 59.90 in 4-berth couchettes, 89.90 in a 3-bed sleeper, 109.90 in a 2-bed sleeper or 159.90 in a single-bed sleeper, all per person per berth. Fares vary like air fares, so book ahead.
Book this train at www.thetrainline.com (in , £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem, small booking fee) or Austrian Railways own site www.oebb.at (same prices, in , a little more fiddly). Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
Enjoy a day in Amsterdam.
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Day 3, travel from Amsterdam to London overnight by Stena Line Rail & Sail explained in detail here.
You leave Amsterdam Centraal around 18:35, sleep in a cosy private cabin with shower, toilet & satellite TV on board Stena Line's Hoek van Holland to Harwich superferry 21:00-06:30, and arrive London Liverpool Street station around 08:56 next morning (day 4).
Fares start at £62 + cabin cost.
London to Veliko Tarnovo
Bulgaria's ancient capital, Veliko Tarnovo is well worth a visit. Below left, the main gate to the Royal hill and old cathedral. Below right, the old town. The station is at the foot of the hills on which the city is built, it's a longish walk up to the town, you may want to take a taxi. Click for map of Veliko Tarnovo showing station.
To reach Veliko Tarnovo from London or Paris, you have two main options:
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Option 1, travel from London to Sofia using one of the options shown above, then take a Bulgarian domestic train from Sofia. You can check train Sofia to Veliko Tarnovo train times at www.bdz.bg.
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Option 2, you can travel from London to Bucharest and use the train from Bucharest to Istanbul which calls at Veliko Tarnovo, see the London to Istanbul page for details.
European Rail Timetable & maps
The
European Rail Timetable
(formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable)
has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus
currency & climate information. It is essential
for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair
travellers. Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of
publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing
department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and
resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.
You can buy it online at
www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or
www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).
More information
on what the European Rail Timetable contains.
Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south. Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted. See an extract from the map. Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).
To
get the most from your visit, you should take a good guidebook.
For the independent traveller, I think this means one of two
guidebooks, either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide. Both
series are excellent. You can buy an in-depth guide for Bulgaria
or a guide covering all the countries in Eastern Europe. Lonely
Planet Eastern Europe -
Rough Guide
Bulgaria.
Click the images to buy online
Hotels in Sofia & Bulgaria
For an inexpensive hotel with great reviews just outside Sofia Central station with great reviews, I recommend the Best Western Hotel Terminus, or 10 minutes walk away, the excellent Hotel Favorit which I've used myself.
Travel insurance & other tips
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Always take out travel insurance
You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer. It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit. These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself. Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here. Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.
www.staysure.co.uk
offers enhanced Covid-19 protection and gets 4.7 out of 5 on
Trustpilot.
www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.
If you live in the USA try
Travel Guard USA.
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Get an eSIM with mobile data package
Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a European mobile data package and stay connected. Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list. There's no need to buy a physical SIM card! Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.
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Get a Curve card for foreign travel
Most banks give you a poor exchange rate then add a foreign transaction fee on top. A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this. The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards. And you can get a Curve card for free.
How it works: 1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android. 2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses. 3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card. 4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app. You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.
I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader. The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than getting a card out). I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great. See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.
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Get a VPN for safe browsing. Why you need a VPN
When travelling you may use free public WiFi which is often insecure. A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi. It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply. See VPNs & why you need one explained. ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using this link you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription. I also get some commission to help support this site.
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Carry an Anker powerbank
Tickets, reservations, hotel bookings and Interrail or Eurail passes are often now held on your mobile phone. You daren't let it run out of power, and you can't always rely on the phone's internal battery or on being near a power outlet. I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over. Buy from Amazon.co.uk or Buy from Amazon.com.
Touring cities? Use hill walking shoes!
One of the best things I've done is swap my normal shoes for hill-walking shoes, in my case from Scarpa. They're intended for hiking across the Pennines not wandering around Florence, but the support and cushioning for hiking works equally well when you're on your feet all day exploring foreign cities. My feet used to give out first and limit my day, now the rest of me gives up before they do!