London to Bulgaria by train, a 48 hour Balkan adventure...
It's not difficult to travel to Bulgaria by train, in fact it's a safe, comfortable and interesting journey. The train ride from London to Bulgaria takes as little as 2 nights, with a variety of possible routes and options. The train times, fares, and how best to buy tickets are all explained on this page.
Update 2023: The Zagreb-Belgrade train remains suspended due to Covid-19, rendering the route via Belgrade non-viable. You should travel via Bucharest until further notice.
Train times, fares & tickets...
Trains to Sofia from other European
cities
Trains from Sofia to
other European cities
Sofia Central Station location &
facilities
General information about train travel in
Europe
Luggage
Taking bikes
Taking dogs
Route map: London to Sofia by train...

Useful
country information
Train operator in Bulgaria: |
BDZ (Bβlgarski Dβrzhavni Zheleznitsi), www.bdz.bg. Sofia-Istanbul by train |
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Railpasses: |
Beginner's guide to European railpasses Buy a rail pass online |
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Time zone: |
GMT+2 (GMT+3 from last Sunday in March to last Saturday in October). |
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Dialling code: |
+359 |
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Currency: |
£1 = approx 2.1 Lev. 1 = approx 1.9 Lev. Currency converter |
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Tourist information: |
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Visas: |
UK citizens don't need a visa to visit Bulgaria, Serbia, Hungary or Romania. |
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Page last updated: |
2 January 2023 |
London to Sofia
by train
Which option to choose?
Option 1, Eurostar to Brussels or Paris, sleeper to Vienna, sleeper to Bucharest, day train to Sofia - currently the most viable option...
Going via Romania is a longer way round, but it avoids the vagaries of the Belgrade-Sofia route and the Covid-related service suspensions on that route.
Option 2, Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Stuttgart, sleeper to Zagreb, onward train to Belgrade, overnight hotel, train to Sofia. This is the fastest and most direct option - not currently viable as the Zagreb-Belgrade train remains suspended.
Option 3, Eurostar to Paris, TGV-Lyria to Zurich, sleeper to Zagreb, onward train to Belgrade, hotel stop, train to Sofia. This is similar to option 1, but via Zurich instead of Stuttgart. It takes a couple of hours longer, but there's great scenery. Not currently viable as the Zagreb-Belgrade train remains suspended
Option 4, London & Harwich to Hoek van Holland & Amsterdam by train & ferry, then train from Amsterdam to Sofia via Bucharest - the ferry alternative.
Option 1, London to Sofia via Vienna, Budapest & Bucharest...
This is currently the most viable route to Sofia, given Covid-related cancellations on the route via Belgrade and the vagaries of the Belgrade-Sofia connection.
London ► Sofia
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Day 1, travel from London to Vienna using an afternoon Eurostar from London to Paris or Brussels, then the 3-times-a-week Nightjet sleeper train from Paris to Vienna or the 3-times-a-week Nightjet sleeper train from Brussels to Vienna. See the London to Austria page for details.
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Day 2, travel from Vienna to Budapest by railjet train, leaving Vienna Hbf at 11:40 and arriving Budapest Keleti at 14:19.
The swish Austrian railjet train has a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. By all means take an earlier train if you'd like more time in Budapest, perhaps for lunch.
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Day 2, travel from Budapest to Bucharest on the sleeper train Muntenia, leaving Budapest Keleti at 15:10 and arriving Bucharest Nord at 08:06.
The Muntenia has 4 & 6-berth couchettes and ordinary seats. A Romanian sleeping-car with cosy 1, 2 & 3-bed compartments is attached from Timişoara Nord (depart 21:50) to Bucharest. There's no catering car, so bring your own food & drink.
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Day 3, travel from Bucharest to Sofia as shown on the trains from Bucharest page, leaving Bucharest Nord 10:55, arriving Sofia Central 20:10.
In summer it's a direct train, in winter you have to switch trains at Ruse. There's no catering car, so bring your own food & drink. The train crosses the Danube from Giurgiu in Romania to Ruse in Bulgaria over Europe's longest steel bridge, 2.5 km long, then it meanders through the scenic river valleys of Bulgaria. Put your feet up and enjoy the ride...
Sofia ► London
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Day 1, travel from Sofia to Bucharest, leaving Sofia Central at 07:10 and arriving Bucharest Nord at 17:00.
In summer from 4 June to 4 October 2022 this is a direct train, or rather, one 2nd class Sofia-Bucharest through coach with side corridor & compartments. The other cars in this train run between Sofia & Ruse.
At other times of year it's two separate trains either side of Ruse, arrive 13:35, depart 14:15. You change at Ruse from a Bulgarian train into a modern air-conditioned Romanian diesel unit for the last leg to Bucharest, although the end-to-end timings are exactly the same.
There's no catering so bring a picnic and some wine or beer, a good book, and enjoy the ride. It's a lovely scenic route, meandering at leisurely speed through the beautiful green valleys of Bulgaria. You then cross the Danube from Ruse in Bulgaria to Giurgiu in Romania over Europe's longest steel bridge, 2.5 km long.
Enjoy an evening in Bucharest and have dinner.
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Day 1, travel from Bucharest to Budapest by sleeper train Muntenia, leaving Bucharest Nord at 22:02 and arriving Budapest Keleti at 12:50.
The Muntenia has 4 & 6-berth couchettes and ordinary seats. A Romanian sleeping-car with cosy 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments is attached from Bucharest as far as Timişoara Nord (arrive 07:57). There's no catering car, so bring your own food & drink.
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Day 2, travel from Budapest to Vienna by EuroCity train, leaving Budapest Keleti at 14:40 and arriving Vienna Hbf at 17:21.
An earlier connection is possible, but I'd allow for delay and book this one.
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Day 2, travel from Vienna to Brussels or Paris by Nightjet sleeper train then take Eurostar to London, see the London to Austria page for details. Each sleeper train (Vienna-Paris & Vienna-Brussels) runs 3 times a week. You arrive in London on Day 3.
How much does it cost?
1. London to Paris or Brussels by Eurostar |
From £52 one-way, £78 return 2nd class. From £115 one-way, £199 return 1st class. Child fares |
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2. Paris or Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet train |
In a seat |
In a couchette |
In the sleeping-car |
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6-berth |
4-berth |
3-berth |
2-berth |
1-berth |
3-berth + shower |
2-berth + shower |
1-berth + shower |
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One way fares per person from: |
29.90 |
49.90 |
59.90 |
89.90 |
109.90 |
159.90 |
99.90 |
139.90 |
179.90 |
3. Vienna to Budapest |
From 19.90 each way in 2nd class, 29.90 each way in 1st class. |
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4. Budapest to Bucharest |
From 40 with a couchette in 6-berth or 47 with a couchette in 4-berth. These are limited-availability advance-purchase fares. If you want a private sleeper: Budapest-Timisoara in a seat starts at 17. Timisoara-Bucharest in a single-bed sleeper costs around 59. |
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4. Bucharest to Sofia |
34 each way, full-price. |
How to buy tickets
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Step 1, book the Eurostar from London to Paris or Brussels at www.thetrainline.com (easy to use, in , £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem, small booking fee) and add to basket.
Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket or can load it into the Eurostar app to show on your phone.
Tip: If you're returning, you should book Eurostar as a round trip, because Eurostar return fares are significantly cheaper than two one-ways. With all the other trains it doesn't matter, as a return is simply two one-ways.
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Step 2, book the sleeper train from Paris or Brussels to Vienna at www.thetrainline.com and add to basket.
You can book one-way or round trip in either direction, remember the sleeper runs 3 times a week from Paris, 3 times a week from Brussels. Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
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Step 3, book the train from Vienna to Budapest at www.thetrainline.com, add to basket and check out.
You can book one-way or round trip in either direction. Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
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Step 4, book a couchette from Budapest to Bucharest at the Romanian Railways international website bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro.
You can book one-way or round trip in either direction. Booking opens 60 days ahead. You print your own ticket.
If you want the comfort & privacy of a proper sleeper from Timisoara to Bucharest, (1) book a 2nd class seat from Budapest to Timisoara from 17 using bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro. You print your own ticket. (2) Now book berths in a 1, 2 or 3-bed sleeper from Timisoara Nord to Bucharest Nord at the Romanian Railways domestic website bilete.cfrcalatori.ro and print your own ticket.
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Step 5, book the train from Bucharest to Sofia at the Romanian Railways website bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro.
The ticket must be collected at the international booking office at Bucharest Gara de Nord. If you're returning, you can book a round trip ticket and collect it in Bucharest. However, for one-way tickets in the Sofia to Bucharest direction you cannot book online, so buy this ticket at the international ticket windows at Sofia station. There are always places, even on the day of travel.
What's the journey like?
1. London to Paris or Brussels by Eurostar...
Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, London & Brussels in just 2 hours, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph). There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi. Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00). There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train. More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure. St Pancras station guide. Brussels Midi station guide. In Brussels, I recommend using the Pullman Hotel bar as your VIP waiting room.
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A Eurostar e320 at St Pancras. More about Eurostar. |
Standard Premier/Business Premier. Larger photo. |
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Standard class seats. Larger photo. |
One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9. Larger photo. |
2. Paris or Brussels to Vienna by Nightjet: See the Nightjet guide...
This is an Austrian Railways (ΦBB) Nightjet train, with sleeping-car, couchettes & seats. The sleeping-car has 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin, plus three deluxe compartments with 1, 2 or 3 beds with private shower & toilet. The sleeper berths come fully made up with sheets and duvets, all sleeper passengers get mineral water in the evening and a light breakfast served in their compartment next morning. Towels & toiletries are provided, including shampoo and shower gel in the deluxe sleepers. In the more economical couchettes, you can book a couchette in a cheaper 6-berth compartment or a less-crowded 4-berth compartment, each provided with sheet, blanket, pillow & small bottle of water, and couchette passengers get a tea or coffee in the morning. When waiting for the northbound sleeper train in Vienna, if you have booked a sleeper you can use the ΦBB lounge with complimentary refreshments. More pictures & information about Nightjet trains.
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On 20 January 2020, the inaugural Nightjet left Brussels for Vienna, the first scheduled sleeper train to leave Brussels in 16 years. Above, that inaugural train is seen ready to leave Brussels Midi on 20 January - naturally, the Man in Seat 61 was on board! |
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Deluxe sleeper. Each compartment can be used as a 1, 2 or 3-bed room. Larger photo. Video of deluxe room |
The same deluxe sleeper in evening/morning mode with beds folded away, seats folded out. Larger photo. |
Deluxe rooms have a compact shower & toilet, towels & hair/body wash provided. Larger photo. |
Standard sleeper set up as 2-berth, washstand open. It can be used as a 1, 2 or 3 berth. Larger photo. |
3. Vienna to Budapest by Railjet...
Railjets are ΦBB's (Austrian Railways) premier trains, with economy & 1st class, plus a premium 1st class called business class. There's a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. In 1st & business class, restaurant car orders are taken and served at your seat. More information about railjets. Budapest Keleti station guide.
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A railjet about to leave Vienna. More information about railjets... |
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Business class. About. |
Restaurant car. |
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The railjet has landed... A railjet has arrived spot on time in Budapest's historic Keleti station, built 1881-1884 |
4. Budapest to Bucharest on the sleeper train Muntenia...
The train has a Romanian couchette car with 4 & 6-bunk compartments, these convert from seats to bunks at night will sheet, pillow and blanket provided. There are toilets & washrooms at the end of the corridor. A classic wood-panelled sleeping-car is attached from Timisoara to Bucharest, of a type bought second-hand from DB (German Railways) with cosy 1, 2 & 3-bed compartments with washbasin.
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A Romanian couchette car of the sort used between Budapest & Bucharest on the Muntenia. Courtesy of @AndyBTravels, DiscoverByRail.com . |
4 or 6-berth couchettes. Larger photo. |
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A Romanian sleeping-car with 1, 2 or 3-bed compartments is attached between Timisoara & Bucharest. Courtesy of @AndyBTravels, DiscoverByRail.com. Larger photo. |
Option 2, London to Sofia via Paris, Stuttgart, Zagreb & Belgrade...
This is the fastest option, London to Bulgaria overland by train, taking 3 days, 2 nights. It involves comfortable good-quality air-conditioned trains as far as Belgrade, but a more basic series of trains between Belgrade and Sofia.
Incidentally, the line between Budapest & Belgrade is currently affected by work to upgrade the line, and that route will be out of action throughout 2020. This means that the route via Zagreb shown below is the one to use, until further notice. Or would be, when if it weren't also suspended!
London ► Sofia
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Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 10:22 on Mondays-Fridays & Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 13:47. On Saturdays, leave London St Pancras at 09:24 arriving Paris Gare du Nord at 12:57.
In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est.
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Day 1, travel from Paris to Stuttgart by TGV Duplex, leaving Paris Gare de l'Est at 15:55 Monday-Friday & Sunday arriving Stuttgart Hbf 19:04. On Saturdays, leave Paris Gare de l'Est at 13:55 arriving Stuttgart Hbf 17:04.
The 320 km/h double-deck TGV Duplex has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. I recommend an upper deck seat for the best views, any seat number >60 is upper deck. Times may vary, so check your date at www.bahn.de.
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Day 1, travel from Stuttgart to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Stuttgart Hbf at 20:29 and arriving Zagreb 10:39.
The Lisinski has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended). Watch the Croatian sleeper video.
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Day 2, travel from Zagreb to Belgrade on the daily train, leaving Zagreb at 11:04 arriving Novi Beograd 18:04 & Belgrade Centar at 18:12.
This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.
This train has two air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats (no 1st class). There's no dining-car, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.
Tip: Although Belgrade Centar is slightly closer to the city centre, you have to rely on a single bus line. Trams 7 & 9 link Novi Beograd station with the site of the now-defunct old Belgrade station on the edge of the old city every 5-10 minutes so you may prefer to get off at Novi Beograd and take a tram, see the Belgrade station page for more information.
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Stay overnight in Belgrade. I recommend the famous Hotel Moskva, located at the end of Belgrade's main pedestrianised shopping street- see map of Belgrade showing station.
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Day 3, travel from Belgrade to Sofia, see the Belgrade to Sofia page for timetable, photos, tips & information.
This route is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.
From mid-June to late September there should be a direct train from Belgrade to Sofia called the Balkan, but it didn't run in 2021 and may not run in 2022. If running, it leaves Belgrade Topcider station at 09:15 and arrives Sofia central station at 20:37. The Balkan is 2nd class only and has no catering car so bring your own picnic and supplies of wine or beer.
When the direct train isn't running (which could well be all of 2022), you travel from Belgrade to Sofia like this:
Day 3, travel from Belgrade to Nis by modern air-conditioned Serbian electric train, leaving Belgrade Centar at 17:30 & arriving Nis at 22:13. An earlier 13:05 train is available if you'd like more of an evening in Nis.
Stay overnight in Nis, the inexpensive Vila Nova Hotel is 14 minutes walk from the station with great reviews, with a 24h front desk & free WiFi.
Day 4, travel from Nis to Dimitrovgrad by air-conditioned Serbian diesel train, leaving Nis at 07:10 and arriving Dimitrovgrad at 10:22.
Day 4, travel from Dimitrovgrad to Sofia by Bulgarian train, leaving Dimitrovgrad at 15:15 and arriving Sofia central station at 18:36.
Sofia ► London
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Day 1, travel from Sofia to Belgrade by train, see the Sofia to Belgrade page for full details, photos, tips & information.
This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.
From mid-June to late September there should be a direct train from Sofia to Belgrade, but this didn't run in 2021 and may not run in 2022. It leaves Sofia central station at 09:15 and arrives Belgrade Topcider station at 18:29. It's 2nd class only and has no catering, so bring your own picnic and wine or beer.
If & when this direct train isn't running (which may well be all of 2022), you travel from Sofia to Belgrade by 3-train combo like this: Leave Sofia central at 09:00, change at Dimitrovgrad (arrive 10:20, depart 11:25) & Nis (arrive 14:44 depart 15:50), arriving Belgrade Centar 20:59.
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Stay overnight in Belgrade. I recommend the famous Hotel Moskva at the end of Belgrade's main pedestrianised shopping street- see map of Belgrade showing station.
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Day 2, travel from Belgrade to Zagreb on the daily train, leaving Belgrade Centar station at 10:05 & Novi Beograd at 10:19 arriving Zagreb 18:13.
This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.
This train has two air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats. There's no 1st class or catering car, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine. You've now time for dinner in Zagreb.
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Day 2, travel from Zagreb to Stuttgart by sleeper train Lisinski, leaving Zagreb at 19:38 & arriving Stuttgart Hbf 08:37.
The Lisinski has a modern air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and seats (not recommended). Watch the Croatian sleeper video. In summer when it's light there is wonderful scenery along the river Sava between Zagreb & Ljubljana.
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Day 3, travel from Stuttgart to Paris by high-speed ICE train, leaving Stuttgart at 10:52 & arriving Paris Gare de l'Est at 14:05.
The high-speed ICE train has a restaurant car, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. Do not risk earlier connections.
In Paris, it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare de l'Est to the Gare du Nord.
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Day 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 17:03 & arriving London St Pancras at 18:32.
How much does it cost?
Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.
1. London to Paris by Eurostar... |
From £52 one-way, £78 return 2nd class. From £115 one-way, £199 return 1st class. Child fares |
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2. Paris to Stuttgart by TGV Duplex... |
From 39 each way in 2nd class From 69 each way in 1st class. Fares work like air fares, cheap in advance, expensive on the day. |
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3. Stuttgart to Zagreb on the Lisinski... |
In a seat: |
In a couchette |
In the sleeping-car |
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6-berth |
4-berth |
3-berth |
2-berth |
single |
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One-way per person from: |
29 |
49 |
59 |
69 |
79 |
139 |
Berths are sold individually, so one ticket means one bed. The other beds in your compartment will be sold to other passengers. For sole occupancy, simply book 1 ticket in a 1-berth sleeper or 2 tickets in a 2-berth sleeper or 4 tickets in a 4-berth couchette & so on. |
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4. Zagreb to Belgrade by day train... |
Around 30 each way in 2nd class, bought at the station. Around £43 each way in 2nd class, bought by phone in the UK. |
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5. Belgrade to Sofia by day train... |
Around 21 bought at the station in Belgrade (recommended). Around 45 lev (22) in other direction, bought at Sofia station. Around £44 each way bought by phone in the UK. |
How to buy tickets...
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Step 1, book from London to Stuttgart at www.thetrainline.com. Who are Thetrainline.com?
Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets in one place, in , £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.
Booking opens up to 6 months ahead for Eurostar, up to 4 months ahead for Paris-Stuttgart, and usually 90 days ahead for Stuttgart-Zagreb, see more information about when bookings open. I recommend waiting until onward trains have opened for booking and times are confirmed before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.
Tip: Click via/avoid and enter Paris as a via station to limit the search to routes via Paris.
Tip: You can book from London to Stuttgart all in one go if you like, but for more control over the connection in Paris, I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Stuttgart and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains. That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars have cheaper prices.
Tip: If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return journey. All other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!
Tip: After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.
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Step 2, book the sleeper train from Stuttgart to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com.
Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Stuttgart-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes. Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
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Step 3, Zagreb to Belgrade cannot be booked online, just buy at the station in Zagreb or on the train, this won't be a problem.
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Step 4, the Belgrade-Sofia train cannot be booked online, so buy it at the station in Belgrade when you get there, always places available.
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Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Stuttgart at the German Railways website www.bahn.de, then Stuttgart to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at. This is more work on multiple websites, sometimes more fiddly, the prices should be the same, but no booking fees.
How to buy tickets by phone...
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If you'd prefer to book all your tickets together by phone, just call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday.
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Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).
Have your trip professionally arranged...
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If you want a custom-made trip with train travel, hotels & transfers all arranged for you, contact Railbookers. Tell them what you want and they'll advise you on the best trains, routes & hotels and sort it all out. They get positive reviews and look after their customers very well.
UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk.
US call free 1-888-829-4775, see website.
Canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website.
Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website.
New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website.
What is the journey like?
1. London to Paris by Eurostar...
Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph). There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi. Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00). There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train. More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure. St Pancras station guide. Paris Gare du Nord station guide.
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A Eurostar e320 train. More about Eurostar. |
Standard Premier/Business Premier. Larger photo. |
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Standard class seats. Larger photo. |
One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9. Larger photo. |
2. Paris to Stuttgart by TGV Duplex... Click for video guide
In Paris it's an easy 7 minute 500m walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est for the TGV to Germany. Sit back with a glass of red and enjoy the ride - book an upper deck seat for the best views. The train is equipped with power sockets for laptops & mobiles at all seats in both classes, and a cafe-bar serves drinks, snacks & microwaved hot dishes. The train soon leaves the Paris suburbs behind and speeds across a vast wide open plateau of woods & farmland at up to 320 km/h (199 mph), past picturesque French villages of the Champagne region. An hour or two later, the train leaves the high-speed line and slowly meanders through pretty wooded hills, the countryside eventually flattening out towards Strasbourg. On leaving Strasbourg, look out for Strasbourg cathedral on the left with its famously missing second tower. Minutes afterwards you rumble across the river Rhine into Germany, before heading on to Stuttgart. Paris Gare de l'Est station guide.
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TGV Duplex at Paris Est. These impressive 320 km/h double-deck trains link Paris & Stuttgart, a relaxing journey with reading book & glass of wine. Book an upstairs seat for the best views... |
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Cafe-bar on upper deck in car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes. |
2nd class seats on the upper deck. There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating. 360Ί photo. |
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1st class on upper deck, a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right. 360Ί photo. |
A TGV Duplex. The 1 near the door indicates 1st class, a 2 indicates 2nd class. |
3. Stuttgart to Zagreb by sleeper train Lisinski... Watch the video
This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes.
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Above, the air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car to Zagreb at Munich Hbf. It has 10 compartments with washbasin, each of which can be used as 1, 2 or 3 berth, with toilets at the end of the corridor. Compartments convert to a private sitting room for evening or morning use. A light breakfast is included in the sleeper fare. The Croatian couchette car is the next vehicle to the right, also modern & air-conditioned with 4 & 6 bunk compartments, ideal for families. Couchettes convert from bunks to seats for evening or morning use. |
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1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper. |
Set up as a single-berth. |
4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360Ί photo. |
4. Zagreb to Belgrade by train...
This is a spacious and comfortable air-conditioned Serbian train, with modern 2nd class seats - there's no 1st class. There's no restaurant car, so take a picnic and some beer or wine with you. On arrival in Belgrade, you have time to go into town, perhaps visit the fortress overlooking the confluence of Danube and Sava.
5. Belgrade to Sofia: See the Belgrade to Sofia page...
Option 3, London to Sofia via Paris, Zurich, Zagreb & Belgrade...
This is similar to option 1, but instead of TGV to Stuttgart and Croatian sleeper train from Stuttgart to Zagreb, you taka a TGV-Lyria to Zurich and Croatian sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb. It's the same as option 1 east of Zagreb. There are two minor disadvantages compared to option 2: First, departure from London is a little earlier in the morning with an identical arrival in Sofia. Second, you need to cross Paris by taxi or metro from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon, whereas in option 1 it's just a 7 minute walk from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de l'Est next door. This option also has lovely scenery in the morning on the way to Zagreb along the Sava river.
London ► Sofia
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Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 07:01 Mondays-Fridays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 10:17, at 06:31 on Saturdays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 09:47, or at 08:01 on Sundays arriving Paris Gare du Nord 11:20.
There's also an 07:55 Eurostar on Mondays-Saturdays, but I'd play safe and book an earlier Eurostar when available.
Cross Paris by metro or taxi to the Gare de Lyon, 2 stops on RER line D.
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Day 1, travel from Paris to Zurich by 320 km/h double-deck TGV-Lyria, leaving Paris Gare de Lyon at 12:22 arriving Zurich HB at 16:26.
The 320 km/h double-deck TGV-Lyria has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi, see more about TGV-Lyria.
In Zurich, there's time for dinner while waiting for the sleeper, I recommend steak-frites and a beer at the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB, see other restaurant suggestions.
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Day 1, travel from Zurich to Zagreb by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zurich HB at 20:40 and arriving in Zagreb at 10:39 next morning (day 2).
The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended). Watch the Croatian sleeper video.
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Day 2, travel from Zagreb to Belgrade on the daily train, leaving Zagreb at 11:04 arriving Novi Beograd 18:04 & Belgrade Centar at 18:12.
This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.
This train has two air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 2nd class seats (no 1st class). There's no catering, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.
Tip: Although Belgrade Centar is slightly closer to the city centre, you have to rely on a single bus line. Trams 7 & 9 link Novi Beograd station with the site of the now-defunct old Belgrade station on the edge of the old city every 5-10 minutes so you may prefer to get off at Novi Beograd and take a tram, see the Belgrade station page for more information.
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Stay overnight in Belgrade. I recommend the famous Hotel Moskva, located at the end of Belgrade's main pedestrianised shopping street- see map of Belgrade showing station.
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Day 3, travel from Belgrade to Sofia, see the Belgrade to Sofia page for timetable, photos, tips & information.
This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.
From mid-June to late September there should be a direct train from Belgrade to Sofia called the Balkan, but this didn't run in 2021 and may not run in 2022. If running, it leaves Belgrade Topcider station at 09:15 and arrives Sofia central station at 20:37. The Balkan is 2nd class only and has no catering car so bring your own picnic and supplies of wine or beer.
When the direct train isn't running (which could well be all of 2022), you travel from Belgrade to Sofia like this:
Day 3, travel from Belgrade to Nis by modern air-conditioned Serbian electric train, leaving Belgrade Centar at 17:30 & arriving Nis at 22:13. An earlier 13:05 train is available if you'd like more of an evening in Nis.
Stay overnight in Nis, the inexpensive Vila Nova Hotel is 14 minutes walk from the station with great reviews, with a 24h front desk & free WiFi.
Day 4, travel from Nis to Dimitrovgrad by air-conditioned Serbian diesel train, leaving Nis at 07:10 and arriving Dimitrovgrad at 10:22.
Day 4, travel from Dimitrovgrad to Sofia by Bulgarian train, leaving Dimitrovgrad at 15:15 and arriving Sofia central station at 18:36.
Sofia ► London
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Day 1, travel from Sofia to Belgrade by train, see the Sofia to Belgrade page for full details, photos, tips & information.
This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.
From mid-June to late September there should be a direct train from Sofia to Belgrade, but this didn't run in 2021 and may not run in 2022. It leaves Sofia central station at 09:15 and arrives Belgrade Topcider station at 18:29. It's 2nd class only and has no catering, so bring your own picnic and wine or beer.
If & when this direct train isn't running (which may well be all of 2022), you travel from Sofia to Belgrade by 3-train combo like this: Leave Sofia central at 09:00, change at Dimitrovgrad (arrive 10:20, depart 11:25) & Nis (arrive 14:44 depart 15:50), arriving Belgrade Centar 20:59.
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Stay overnight in Belgrade. I recommend the famous Hotel Moskva at the end of Belgrade's main pedestrianised shopping street- see map of Belgrade showing station.
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Day 2, travel from Belgrade to Zagreb on the daily train, leaving Belgrade Centar station at 10:05 & Novi Beograd at 10:19 arriving Zagreb 18:13.
This train is still currently suspended due to Covid-19.
This train has air-conditioned Serbian carriages with comfortable 1st & 2nd class seats. There's no catering car, so bring along a picnic and maybe some beer or wine.
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Day 2, travel from Zagreb to Zurich by Croatian sleeper train, leaving Zagreb at 19:38 and arriving in Zurich HB at 09:20 next morning.
The train has an excellent air-conditioned Croatian sleeping-car (1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin), a modern air-conditioned Croatian couchette car (4 & 6 berth compartments) and ordinary seats (not recommended). Watch the Croatian sleeper video.
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Day 3, travel from Zurich to Paris by TGV-Lyria, leaving Zurich HB at 11:34 and arriving Paris Gare de Lyon at 15:38.
The 320 km/h double-deck TGV-Lyria has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi, see more about TGV-Lyria.
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Day 3, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar, leaving Paris Gare du Nord at 17:03, arriving London St Pancras at 18:32.
How much does it cost?
Each train is ticketed separately, so add up the price for each leg of the journey.
How to buy tickets...
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Step 1, book from London to Zurich at www.thetrainline.com. Who are Thetrainline.com?
Using www.thetrainline.com allows you to book all your tickets in one place, in , £ or $, international cards no problem, small booking fee.
Booking opens up to 180 days ahead for Eurostar, up to 120 days ahead for Paris-Zurich, and usually 90 days ahead for Zurich-Zagreb, see more information about when bookings open. I recommend waiting until onward trains have opened for booking and times are confirmed before buying a non-refundable Eurostar ticket, unless you're prepared to take a calculated risk.
Tip: Click via/avoid and enter Paris as a via station to limit the search to routes via Paris.
Tip: You can book from London to Zurich all in one go if you like, but for more control over the connection in Paris, I'd book London-Paris first, add to basket, then book Paris-Zurich and add to basket, ensuring at least an hour between trains. That way you can allow a more robust connection than the system would give you, and you can see if earlier Eurostars have cheaper prices.
Tip: If you are making a round trip, London-Paris return fares are cheaper than two one-ways so it's cheaper to book this as a return journey. All other trains are one-way ticketed so it makes no difference how you book, and it can be easier to book one way at a time!
Tip: After booking you can use the Manage booking facility at www.eurostar.com to choose an exact seat from a seating plan, see tips on choosing a seat on Eurostar.
Tip: If you're travelling from a town or city north of London, see advice about buying domestic tickets to London to connect with Eurostar.
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Step 2, book the sleeper train from Zurich to Zagreb at www.thetrainline.com.
Use the journey planner to bring up the direct Zurich-Zagreb sleeper train marked EN with 0 changes. Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
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Step 3, Zagreb to Belgrade cannot be booked online, just buy at the station in Zagreb, this won't be a problem.
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Step 4, the Belgrade-Sofia train cannot be booked online, so buy it at the station in Belgrade when you get there, always places available.
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Alternatively, you can book London to Paris at www.eurostar.com, then Paris to Zurich at the French Railways website www.sncf-connect.com, then Zurich to Zagreb at the Austrian Railways website www.oebb.at. This is more work on multiple websites and sometimes more fiddly, prices should be the same, but no booking fees.
How to buy tickets by phone...
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It's better to book online, but if you want to book by phone, just call International Rail on 0844 248 248 3, lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, a phone booking fee applies.
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Alternatively, you can call Deutsche Bahn's English-speaking telesales line on 00 49 (0)30 311 68 29 04 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-13:00 Saturday & Sunday UK time, 1.5% fee for phone bookings).
What are the trains like?
1. London to Paris by Eurostar...
Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph). There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. Standard Premier & Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00). There's a 30-minute minimum check-in at London St Pancras (45-minute minimum in Paris, Brussels & Amsterdam) as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train. More information about Eurostar including check-in procedure. St Pancras station guide. Paris Gare du Nord station guide. How to cross Paris by metro or taxi.
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A Eurostar e320 train at St Pancras. More about Eurostar. |
Standard Premier/Business Premier. Larger photo. |
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Standard class seats. Larger photo. |
One of two cafe-bars, in cars 8 & 9. Larger photo. |
2. Paris to Zurich by TGV-Lyria...
All TGV-Lyria trains are now 320km/h (199 mph) double-deck TGV Duplex like the one shown below. TGV-Lyria trains have 3 classes: Standard class (2nd), standard premiere (1st class) and business premiere (1st class with hot meal & drinks included in the fare). There's a cafe-bar car selling drinks & snacks. There are power points for mobiles & laptops at all seats in all classes. Lyria is a consortium of the French and Swiss national railways. More information about TGV-Lyria.
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TGV-Lyria TGV Duplex train at Paris Gare de Lyon. More information about TGV-Lyria |
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Cafe-bar on upper deck car 4, serving tea, coffee, soft drinks, wine, beer, snacks & microwaved hot dishes... |
2nd class seats on the upper deck. There's a mix or tables for 4 and unidirectional seating. 360Ί photo. |
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1st class on the upper deck, with a club duo on the left, a club quatre on the right. Larger photo. |
A TGV-Lyria boarding at Paris Gare de Lyon. You enter on the lower deck, with 9 stairs up to top deck. |
3. Zurich to Zagreb by sleeper train... Watch the video
This modern sleeper train is a pleasure to travel on, whether in the privacy of your own sleeper or in economical couchettes. There's time for dinner in Zurich before boarding at a local restaurant, try the Brasserie Federal inside Zurich HB.
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The Zurich-Zagreb sleeper train boards at Zurich HB as the sun sets on a summer day. That's the Croatian couchette car on the right, the Croatian sleeping-car on the left. |
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1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper. |
Set up as a single-berth. |
4 or 6-berth couchettes. 360Ί photo. |
4. Zagreb to Belgrade by train...
This is a spacious and comfortable air-conditioned Serbian train, with modern 2nd class seats - there's no 1st class. There's no restaurant car, so take a picnic and some beer or wine with you. On arrival in Belgrade, you have time to go into town, perhaps visit the fortress overlooking the confluence of Danube and Sava.
5. Belgrade to Sofia: See the Belgrade to Sofia page...
Option 4, London to Sofia via Hoek van Holland & Bucharest...
This is the ferry alternative, a version of option 3 that substitutes rail & sail for Eurostar. If you live in East Anglia or prefer a ferry to Eurostar and the Channel Tunnel for some reason, this is a useful alternative. It's often cheaper than Eurostar at short notice.
London ► Sofia
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Day 1, travel from London to Amsterdam overnight by Stena Line Rail & Sail explained in detail here.
You leave London Liverpool Street at 18:45 Mondays-Fridays, 19:36 Saturdays or 20:00 Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.
You leave Cambridge at 19:47 Mondays-Saturdays or 19:45 on Sundays by direct train to Harwich International.
You sleep in a cosy private cabin with shower, toilet & satellite TV on board Stena Line's Harwich-Hoek superferry 21:00-08:00, and arrive Amsterdam around 10:30 next morning.
Fares start at £55 + cabin cost.
Book this as shown on the Stena Line Rail & Sail page.
Enjoy a day in Amsterdam.
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Day 2, travel from Amsterdam to Vienna by Nightjet sleeper train, leaving Amsterdam Centraal at 19:30 and arriving Vienna Hbf at 09:14.
This comfortable Austrian Nightjet train has an air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-car with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers. The sleeping-car attendant can serve drinks, snacks & light meals from a room service menu. The train has couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats. A light breakfast is included in sleepers & couchettes, served in your compartment. See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.
Fares start at 49.90 in 6-berth couchettes, 59.90 in 4-berth couchettes, 89.90 in a 3-bed sleeper, 109.90 in a 2-bed sleeper or 159.90 in a single-bed sleeper, all per person per berth.
Book this train at www.thetrainline.com (in , £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem, small booking fee) or Austrian Railways own site www.oebb.at (same prices, in , more fiddly). Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
Tip: If you have a sleeper ticket and/or 1st class ticket for the onward train to Budapest, you can use the ΦBB lounge at Vienna Hbf between trains, with complimentary tea, coffee, snacks & free WiFi.
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Day 3, now continue from Vienna to Sofia as shown in option 1 above.
Sofia ► London
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Days 1 & 2, travel from Sofia to Vienna as shown in option 1 above.
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Day 2, travel from Vienna to Amsterdam by Nightjet sleeper train leaving Vienna Hbf 20:11 & arriving Amsterdam Centraal 09:59 next morning.
This comfortable Austrian Nightjet train has an air-conditioned Comfortline sleeping-car with nine 1, 2 & 3-berth standard compartments with washbasin and three 1, 2 or 3-berth deluxe compartments with shower & toilet. There are toilets & a shower at the end of the corridor for passengers in the regular sleepers. The sleeping-car attendant can serve drinks, snacks & light meals from a room service menu. The train has couchette cars with 4 & 6 berth compartments, and ordinary seats. A light breakfast is included in sleepers & couchettes, served in your compartment. See the Nightjet page for a guide to on-board accommodation, travel tips, photos & video.
Fares start at 49.90 in 6-berth couchettes, 59.90 in 4-berth couchettes, 89.90 in a 3-bed sleeper, 109.90 in a 2-bed sleeper or 159.90 in a single-bed sleeper, all per person per berth. Fares vary like air fares, so book ahead.
Book this train at www.thetrainline.com (in , £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem, small booking fee) or Austrian Railways own site www.oebb.at (same prices, in , a little more fiddly). Booking opens up to 6 months ahead. You print your own ticket.
Enjoy a day in Amsterdam.
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Day 3, travel from Amsterdam to London overnight by Stena Line Rail & Sail explained in detail here.
You leave Amsterdam Centraal around 18:35, sleep in a cosy private cabin with shower, toilet & satellite TV on board Stena Line's Hoek van Holland to Harwich superferry 21:00-06:30, and arrive London Liverpool Street station around 08:54 next morning (day 4).
Fares start at £55 + cabin cost.
London to Veliko
Tarnovo
Click for map of Veliko Tarnovo showing station
Bulgaria's ancient capital, Veliko Tarnovo is well worth a visit. Below left, the main gate to the Royal hill and old cathedral. Below right, the old town. The station is at the foot of the hills on which the city is built, it's a longish walk up to the town, you may want to take a taxi.
To reach Veliko Tarnovo from London or Paris, you have two main options:
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Option 1, travel from London to Sofia using one of the options shown above, then take a Bulgarian domestic train from Sofia. You can check train Sofia to Veliko Tarnovo train times at www.bdz.bg.
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Option 2, you can travel from London to Bucharest and use the train from Bucharest to Istanbul which calls at Veliko Tarnovo, see the London to Istanbul page for details.
European Rail Timetable & maps
The
European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European
Timetable)
has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus
currency & climate information. It is essential
for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair
travellers. Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of
publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing
department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and
resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.
You can buy it online at
www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or
www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).
More information
on what the European Rail Timetable contains.
Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south. Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted. See an extract from the map. Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or for £9.67 at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).
Recommended
guidebooks
To
get the most from your visit, you should take a good guidebook.
For the independent traveller, I think this means one of two
guidebooks, either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide. Both
series are excellent. You can buy an in-depth guide for Bulgaria
or a guide covering all the countries in Eastern Europe. Lonely
Planet Eastern Europe -
Rough Guide
Bulgaria.
Click the images to buy online...
Hotels
in Sofia & Bulgaria
Suggested hotels in Sofia...
For an inexpensive hotel with great reviews just outside Sofia Central station with great reviews, I recommend the Best Western Hotel Terminus, or 10 minutes walk away, the excellent Hotel Favorit which I've used myself.
Travel insurance & VPN
Always take out travel insurance...
You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer. It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit. These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I use an annual policy myself. Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here. Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.
www.staysure.co.uk
offers enhanced Covid-19 protection & covers you even if the FCDO advises
against non-essential travel.
If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65, see www.JustTravelCover.com.
You
can use
www.confused.com to compare prices & policy features across
major insurance companies.
If you live in the USA try
Travel Guard USA.
A Curve card saves foreign transaction fees...
Banks often give a poor exchange rate, then charge a currency conversion fee as well. A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this. The balance goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards. And you can get a Curve card for free.
How it works: 1. Download the app for iPhone or Android. 2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to most European addresses including the UK. 3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app. 4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, just like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance onto whichever of your debit or credit cards you choose. You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.
I use a Curve Blue card myself - I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I'm recommending it here because I think it's great. See details, download the app and get a Curve card - they'll give you £5 cashback through that link, too.
Get a VPN for safe browsing. VPNs & why you need one explained...
When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure. A VPN means your connection to the internet is encrypted & always secure, even using unsecured WiFi. In countries such as China where access to Twitter & Facebook is restricted, a VPN gets around these restrictions. And lastly, you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geographic restrictions which some websites apply - for example one booking site charges a booking fee to non-European visitors but none to European visitors, so if you're not located in Europe you can avoid this fee by browsing with a UK IP address using a VPN. VPNs & why you need one explained. ExpressVPN is a best buy and I use it myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription, and I get a small commission to help support this site.
Carry an Anker powerbank...
With tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes now often held digitally on your mobile phone, it's vital to keep it charged. I recommend carrying an Anker powerbank which can recharge your phone several times over if you can't get to a power outlet when you're on the move. I never travel without one.