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London to Holland from £62
There's a Rail & Sail service from London or Any Greater Anglia station to Amsterdam and the Netherlands. You can leave central London by train at 7:30pm, sleep in a cosy private cabin with shower, toilet, WiFi & satellite TV on the luxurious Stena Line superferry from 21:00 to 08:00, and arrive Rotterdam at 9am or Amsterdam Centraal at 10:25am, without a 4.30am alarm call or 6:30am check-in at the airport! It saves an expensive hotel room in London or Amsterdam and it's an experience in itself, see the video guide...
CO2 savings: Flight = 68 Kg CO2 per passenger, Rail & Sail = 13.6 Kg = 80% saving (Source).
Timetable London ► Amsterdam
The night boat
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Step 1, travel from London to Harwich by train, leaving London Liverpool Street Station at 18:45 on Mondays-Fridays arriving Harwich International at 20:23, or at 19:36 on Saturdays arriving 20:55 or at 20:00 on Sundays arriving 21:19.
If you don't mind changing trains, there's a later departure on Mondays-Fridays, leaving London Liverpool Street at 19:30, change at Manningtree, arrive Harwich International 21:18. Don't risk the 20:00 departure, it's too tight a connection when you've a ferry to catch.
From Cambridge or Ipswich, on Mondays-Saturdays leave Cambridge at 19:47 or Ipswich at 21:03, arriving Harwich International at 21:29. On Sundays leave Cambridge at 19:45 or Ipswich at 21:03, arriving Harwich at 21:26.
You can check train times from any UK town or city to Harwich at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
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Step 2, sail from Harwich to Hoek van Holland overnight on Stena Line's luxurious superferry Stena Hollandica, sailing at 23:00 & arriving at 08:00 next morning. You can board from around 20:55 onwards, check-in closes at 22:15. All passengers sleep in private cabins with en suite toilet & shower, satellite TV & WiFi, see choice of cabins. The ship's restaurant will be open for dinner. Remember that Dutch time is 1 hour ahead of UK time.
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Step 3, take the metro from Hoek van Holland to Schiedam Centrum, downtown Rotterdam or Rotterdam Alexander. Air-conditioned metro trains leave Hoek van Holland every 20 minutes weekdays, every 30 minutes at weekends from just outside the ferry terminal, taking 23 minutes to Schiedam Centrum, 30 minutes to Beurs or Eendrachtsplein in downtown Rotterdam & 50 minutes to Rotterdam Alexander. There's usually one around 08:32 weekdays or 08:50 weekends. You can check metro times at www.ret.nl. See metro network map.
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Step 4 for Delft, Den Haag, Leiden, Haarlem & Amsterdam, get off the metro at Schiedam Centrum and take the intercity train leaving Schiedam Centrum platform 5 at 09:16 arriving Delft 09:24, Den Haag HS 09:31, Leiden Centraal 09:45, Haarlem 10:09 & Amsterdam Centraal at 10:25. These Intercity trains run every 15 minutes (every 30 minutes Sunday mornings), double-deck with free WiFi. You can check times at www.ns.nl.
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Step 4 for Gouda, Utrecht, Amersfoort, Zwolle, Leeuwarden or Groningen, get off the metro at Rotterdam Alexander and take an intercity train. These run to Utrecht every 15 minutes taking 30 minutes, to Groningen every hour taking 2h29. Check times to other cities at www.ns.nl. See tips for changing trains at Rotterdam Alexander. You reach Utrecht at or before 10:28.
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Step 4 for anywhere else in the Netherlands, check train times using www.ns.nl. Read the fare notes here.
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How much does it cost? How to buy tickets The journey explained in pictures
The day boat
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Step 1, travel from London to Harwich by train, leaving London Liverpool Street Station at 06:00 on Mondays-Fridays, change at Manningtree, arriving Harwich International at 07:39, at 06:36 on Saturdays direct arriving Harwich at 08:05, or at 06:44 on Sundays direct arriving Harwich at 08:11. Check train times from any station to Harwich at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
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Step 2, sail from Harwich to Hoek van Holland on Stena Line's luxurious superferry Stena Britannica. On Mondays-Saturdays she sails at 09:00 arriving 17:15. On Sundays she sails at 09:00 arriving at 18:00. The ship has private cabins, bars, restaurant, lounges, cinema, children's play area.
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Step 3, take the metro from Hoek van Holland to Schiedam Centrum, downtown Rotterdam or Rotterdam Alexander. Air-conditioned metro trains leave Hoek van Holland every 20 minutes weekdays, every 30 minutes at weekends from right outside the ferry terminal, taking 23 minutes to Schiedam, 30 minutes to Beurs or Eendrachtsplein in downtown Rotterdam or 50 minutes to Rotterdam Alexander. You can check times at www.ret.nl. See metro network map.
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Step 4 for Delft, Den Haag, Leiden, Haarlem & Amsterdam, get off the metro at Schiedam Centrum and take the intercity train leaving Schiedam Centrum platform 5 at 18:46 on Mondays-Saturdays arriving Delft 18:54, Den Haag HS 19:01, Leiden Centraal 19:15, Haarlem 19:39 & Amsterdam Centraal at 19:55, or at 19:16 on Sundays arriving Delft 19:24, Den Haag HS 19:31, Leiden Centraal 19:45, Haarlem 20:09 & Amsterdam Centraal at 20:25. These InterCity trains are double-deck with free WiFi, find a top deck seat for the best views. Check Dutch train times at www.ns.nl.
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Step 4 for Gouda, Utrecht, Amersfoort, Zwolle, Leeuwarden or Groningen, get off the metro at Rotterdam Alexander and take an intercity train to Utrecht (every 15 minutes taking 30 minutes) or Groningen (every hour, taking 2h29). See tips for changing trains at Rotterdam Alexander. You should reach Utrecht at or before 19:28 Monday-Saturday or 20:28 Sundays. Check times to other cities at www.ns.nl.
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Step 4 for anywhere else in the Netherlands, check train times using www.ns.nl. Read the fare notes here.
Timetable Amsterdam ► London
The night boat
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Step 1 from Amsterdam, Haarlem, Leiden or Den Haag: Leave Amsterdam Centraal at 18:35, Haarlem 18:51, Leiden Centraal 19:15 or Den Haag HS 19:29 by InterCity train arriving Schiedam Centrum at 19:43. The Intercity train is double-deck, go upper deck for the best views.
Then travel from Schiedam Centrum to Hoek of Holland Haven by metro train. These run every 20 minutes on weekdays or every 30 minutes at weekends taking 24 minutes. By all means catch an earlier train/metro combo, your ticket is valid on any departure and the ship starts boarding from around 19:30. At Hoek, the metro arrives right next to the ferry terminal. See metro network map.
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Step 1 from Groningen or Utrecht: Take an Intercity train to Rotterdam Alexander, leaving Groningen at 15:18 or Utrecht at 17:48, you can check times at www.ns.nl. Then take the metro from Alexander to Hoek van Holland Haven, this runs every 20 minutes weekdays, every 30 minutes weekends, there's usually one at 18:41 arriving Hoek van Holland at 19:42. You can check times at www.ret.nl. See tips for changing trains at Rotterdam Alexander.
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Step 1 from Rotterdam, take the metro from any city centre metro station (for example, Beurs or Eendrachtsplein) to Hoek van Holland Haven leaving at or just after 19:00. The metro runs every 20 minutes weekdays, every 30 minutes at weekends, journey time around 30 minutes. You can check times at www.ret.nl. See metro network map.
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Step 2, sail from Hoek van Holland to Harwich overnight on Stena Line's luxurious superferry Stena Britannica, sailing at 22:00 every day, arriving at 06:30 next morning. Boarding at Hoek van Holland starts around 19:30 and closes at 21:15. All passengers sleep in private cabins with en suite toilet & shower, satellite TV & WiFi, see choice of cabins below. You can have dinner in the ship's restaurant. UK time is 1 hour behind Dutch time.
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Step 3, travel from Harwich to London by train, leaving Harwich International at 07:33 Mondays-Fridays, change at Manningtree (a simple cross-platform change), arriving London Liverpool Street station at 08:58 - or there's a direct train leaving Harwich at 08:00 & arriving London 09:38 if you'd prefer not to change trains. On Saturdays, leave Harwich International at 07:20 direct to London, arriving London Liverpool Street station at 08:46. On Sundays, leave Harwich International at 07:20 direct to London, arriving London Liverpool Street station at 08:58. You can check train times at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
For Ipswich & Cambridge, on Mondays to Fridays a train leaves Harwich International at 07:45 arriving Ipswich 08:15 & Cambridge 09:41. On Saturdays at 07:50 arriving Ipswich 08:17 & Cambridge 09:40. On Sundays it leaves Harwich at 08:50, arriving Ipswich 09:14 & Cambridge 10:39. Check train times at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
The day boat
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Step 1, from Amsterdam, Haarlem, Leiden or Den Haag: On Mondays-Saturdays, leave Amsterdam Centraal at 11:04, Haarlem 11:20, Leiden Centraal 11:45 or Den Haag HS at 11:59 by InterCity train to Schiedam Centrum, arriving at 12:13.
On Sundays, leave Amsterdam Centraal 10:34, Haarlem 10:50, Leiden Centraal 11:15 or Den Haag HS 11:29 arriving Schiedam Centrum 11:43.
These InterCity trains are double-deck, go upper deck for the best views. Then travel from Schiedam Centrum to Hoek of Holland by metro train, these run every 20 minutes weekdays or every 30 minutes at weekends taking 24 minutes.
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Step 1 from Groningen or Utrecht: Take an Intercity train to Rotterdam Alexander, leaving Groningen at 09:18 or Utrecht at 11:18 on Mondays-Saturdays, or Groningen 08:18 & Utrecht 10:48 on Sundays. You can check times at www.ns.nl.
Then take the metro from Alexander to Hoek van Holland Haven, this runs every 20 minutes weekdays, every 30 minutes weekends, one usually leaves at 12:08 Mondays-Saturdays arriving Hoek van Holland at 13:00, or 11:51 on Sundays arriving Hoek at 12:42, check times at www.ret.nl. See metro network map. See tips for changing trains at Rotterdam Alexander.
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Step 1 from Rotterdam, take the metro from any city centre metro station (for example, Beurs or Eendrachtsplein) to Hoek van Holland Haven. The metro runs every 20 minutes on weekdays, every 30 minutes at weekends, journey time around 30 minutes. You need to leave Rotterdam at or just after 12:30 on Mondays-Saturdays, 12:00 on Sundays. You can check metro times at www.ret.nl. See metro network map.
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Step 2, sail from Hoek van Holland to Harwich on Stena Line's luxurious superferry Stena Hollandica, sailing at 14:15 Monday-Saturday or 13:45 Sundays, arriving Harwich 19:45. The ship has private cabins, bars, restaurant, lounges, cinema, children's play area.
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How much does it cost? How to buy tickets The journey explained in pictures
Step 3, travel from Harwich to London by train. On Mondays-Saturdays a train leaves Harwich International at 20:45 arriving London Liverpool Street station at 22:14. On Sundays, leave Harwich at 20:30, arriving London Liverpool Street at 21:44. Check train times at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
How much does it cost?
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1. Rail & Sail ticket from London or any Greater Anglia station to Hoek van Holland starts at £62 each way.
Children under 15 from £31 each way. Children under 4 free.
Tickets cover the British train and the ferry, from London or any Greater Anglia station to Hoek van Holland.
Slightly higher fares may apply on peak dates or if travelling at short notice.
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2. Add the cost of a private cabin, compulsory on the night boat, optional on the day boat...
All cabins have shower, toilet & satellite TV, see the photos of each type of cabin below. The price is per cabin, not per person. So 2 people pay 2 x £62 for travel tickets plus 1 x £46 2-bed cabin = £156 = £78 each.
Cabin costs can be a few pounds higher on busy days.
Adding a cot for a child aged 0-3 costs £4, you can add when booking.
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Optional extras on night boat:
3-course waiter-service Dinner in the Metropolitan restaurant + buffet breakfast in the Taste restaurant: £33
3-course waiter-service Dinner in the Metropolitan restaurant: £26.
Buffet breakfast in the Taste restaurant: £11.
Dog or other pet: £21 for a reserved cage in the kennels.
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Optional extras on day boat:
2-course lunch: £16.
Stena Plus Lounge access: £15 with complimentary tea, coffee, red & white wine, snacks.
Dog or other pet: £17 for a reserved cage in the kennels.
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3. Add a metro ticket from Hoek van Holland to Schiedam Centrum for around €4.
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4. Add a train ticket from Schiedam Centrum to Amsterdam Centraal for €17.20.
About these fares
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Rail & Sail fares include train travel from any Greater Anglia railway station to Harwich, including London Liverpool Street, Stratford, Cambridge, Colchester, Chelmsford, Norwich, Ipswich, Ely, Romford, Ilford, Bishop's Stortford. Simply check train fares & times to Harwich International using www.nationalrail.co.uk. Allow plenty of time (at least 45 minutes, preferably more) to connect with the ferry at Harwich.
From Edinburgh, York, Birmingham, Leicester, Leeds, Newcastle, Nottingham & so on all you need is a ticket to Ely as your rail & sail ticket is valid from any Greater Anglia station on any Greater Anglia train. Or you can go via London, which may be faster & no more expensive.
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Pre-pandemic, Rail & Sail fares used to include metro+train travel from Hoek van Holland to any Dutch NS station, using the RET metro from Hoek van Holland to Schiedam or Rotterdam Alexander then mainline trains operated by NS (Nederandse Spoorwegen, Dutch Railways) to anywhere in the Netherlands. However, NS pulled out of the arrangement during the pandemic and has not resumed participation. So at the moment, you have to buy tickets in 3 parts, Rail & Sail London-Hoek van Holland, metro Hoek van Holland to Schiedam Centrum and NS train ticket from Schiedam Centrum to Amsterdam or wherever you're going in the Netherlands.
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Adding dinner, breakfast or lunch to your booking saves a few pounds compared to what you pay on the day on board.
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Onwards to Germany: Use the German Railways website int.bahn.de to find train times & buy a ticket from Schiedam Centrum or Rotterdam Alexander to Cologne, Frankfurt or Southern Germany by ICE train from €19.90. That way you don't need a separate Dutch train ticket, just the RET Metro ticket.
Luggage, dogs & bikes
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Luggage: You can take as much luggage as you can carry, there are no weight or size limits. Just remember you will have to handle it! You keep your luggage with you throughout the journey, putting it on the luggage racks on the trains and taking it into your cabin on the ferry. On the day sailing, if you don't have a cabin it can be left in a luggage room that will be locked during the crossing.
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Bicycles: You can't use a Rail & Sail ticket if you want to take a bike, as they have removed the ability to add a bike to a Rail & Sail booking. But you can still take a bike on this train & ferry service if you buy separate train & ferry tickets, still great value, especially if you use an advance-purchase ticket for the rail part of the journey. Full details of costs and how to buy tickets with a bike are explained on the bikes by train page.
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Dogs & pets: You can take your dog or cat under the PETS travel scheme, if you reserve an on-board kennel. Buy a Rail & Sail ticket in the normal way at www.stenaline.co.uk/rail-and-sail/to-holland, and at the stage where you enter the number of passengers and select a cabin, simply enter the number of animals requiring a reserved kennel. Dogs go free on the train from London to Harwich. On Dutch trains, small dogs or cats go free if they are in a container on your lap, for a larger dog you'll need to buy a Dog Day Card (Dagkart Hond) for about €3 - you can buy this at the guest services desk on deck 9 on board the Stena Line ferry. For more information see the taking your dog or pet page.
How to buy tickets starting in the UK
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Step 1, book a Rail & Sail ticket from London to Hoek van Holland at www.stenaline.co.uk/rail-and-sail/to-holland.
Scroll down and click the blue button marked 'Book a Dutchflyer Rail & Sail ticket'.
You can now buy a one-way or round trip Rail & Sail ticket from London or any Greater Anglia station to Hoek van Holland. You used to be able to buy tickets to Any Dutch Station, but NS ceased co-operating during the pandemic and it hasn't resumed yet, so just book Rail & Sail to Hoek van Holland.
To buy one-way or return tickets starting in the Netherlands you must use Stena Line's Dutch website instead, as explained below. Anyone from any country can book Rail & Sail tickets starting in the UK this way. Booking usually opens 12 months ahead.
You can add a cabin & meals, and if you have a dog) reserve a kennel. A Rail & Sail ticket to Hoek van Holland includes the train from London or any Greater Anglia station (including Cambridge, Norwich) to Harwich and the ferry to Hoek.
You print your own ticket, this .pdf printout is all you need to board the train in London (or any Greater Anglia station) & check in for the ferry.
If you're from the USA, try booking at www.stenaline.co.uk, but if your payment card is rejected, (a) create an account at the end of the booking process and it'll save your booking with a reference number, (b) call Stena Line on +44 343 208 1801 between 08:00 & 17:00 London time, quote your booking reference and they should be able to take your card details over the phone. Feedback appreciated. The Stena website gives a toll-free US number to call, but this doesn't work, so use the UK one.
To buy tickets by phone, call Stena Line on 03443 350 027 (lines open 08:30-20:00 Mondays-Fridays, 09:00-18:00 Saturdays, 09:00-17:00 Sundays, all cabin & meal options can be sold) or from Greater Anglia on 0845 600 72 45 (lines open 08:00-22:00 daily, may not be able to offer all cabin types or on-board meals). A booking fee of around £4 applies to phone bookings.
To buy in person at London Liverpool Street station ticket office: You can buy tickets on the day, but places are limited and fares cheaper if you book in advance. It's also better to buy from Stena Line, as rail companies can only offer regular cabin, not Comfort or Captain's class.
The Man in Seat 61's top tips: (1) Book a cabin on the daytime crossing even though it's optional, as cabins are half-price and it's somewhere to relax, freshen up, work, or watch TV. (2) Add a meal to your booking, this saves several pounds over what you pay on board and you'll find a reserved table with your name on it in the Metropolitan à la carte restaurant. (3) Here are some suggested hotels in Amsterdam.
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Step 2, buy a ticket for the Dutch Railways from Schiedam Centrum to Amsterdam.
The easy way: On NS (Dutch Railways) you can now simply touch in and touch out with any Visa or MasterCard debit or credit card, or with your phone if you've linked it to your debit card. There's no need to buy a ticket or pre-plan, just place your debit or credit card against the reader on the ticket gate at the beginning of your journey to 'touch in' and it will open. Do the same to 'touch out' at the other end. The correct fare will automatically be debited from your bank account.
The regular way: If you want to travel 1st class and/or need tickets for children, you'll need to buy normal tickets in the normal way.
Go to the NS (Dutch Railways) website www.ns.nl, click In English top right.
If going to Amsterdam, run an enquiry from Hoek van Holland Haven to Amsterdam Centraal. It'll show combined metro+train journeys, and it'll sell you a ticket for the NS mainline train part of the journey (i.e. not including the metro part of the journey).
The ticket you want is Price with e-ticket, click the yellow buy button below that.
This is an open ticket good for any train that day, so it doesn't really matter what time train you buy it for. It cannot sell out, the price is fixed, you can even buy it on the day if you like. NS return tickets are only good for same-day return trips, if staying in the Netherlands for longer than a day, buy two one-ways.
If going elsewhere in the Netherlands, run an enquiry from Hoek van Holland Haven to your Dutch destination. The journey planner will show whether it's best to switch from the metro to an NS mainline train at Schiedam Centrum (for example, going to Amsterdam or Den Haag) or at Rotterdam Alexander (for example, if going to Utrecht or Arnhem), and if you click the yellow button under Price with e-ticket it'll sell you the ticket for the NS mainline part.
You print out the ticket or can show it in the NS app.
Or download & buy tickets on the NS app for iPhone or NS app for Android.
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Step 3, buy a metro ticket from Hoek van Holland Haven to Schiedam Centrum (or to Rotterdam Alexander if changing there). You want a RET 2-hour ticket for around €4. See metro network map.
The easy way is simply to touch in and touch out with any contactless Visa or MasterCard debit or credit card and the correct fare will automatically be debited from your bank account. Remember to touch in using the card reader, and to touch out again at the end of your metro journey at Schiedam Centrum or in Rotterdam, before changing onto the NS train.
Alternatively, you can buy a metro ticket using the self-service ticket machines at Hoek van Holland, or buy tickets on the RET app,
To buy a metro ticket on your phone: 1. Download the RET App from the Apple App Store or the RET app from the Google Play Store, you can do this before leaving home. 2. Buy a RET 2 hours mobile ticket when it suits you & pay with credit card or Apple Pay. 3. Activate your RET 2 hours ticket before travelling by metro, bus & tram. 4. Use the barcode on the mobile ticket to check in & out of the metro, bus and tram. More info at www.ret.nl/home/reizen/stenaline.html.
How to buy tickets starting in the Netherlands
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Step 1, book a ferry & train ticket at www.stenaline.nl. Booking usually opens up to 12 months ahead.
Following Stena Line's very poor website redesign, leave it in Dutch and use Google/Chrome Translate where necessary. Scroll to the bottom of the page and under Reisopties click Ferry en Trein.
You'll have to select Hoek van Holland as starting point while NS aren't participating. A Rail & Sail booking from Hoek van Holland to Any Greater Anglia station covers the ferry and the English train from Harwich to London. You can add a cabin & meals, and if you have a dog) reserve a kennel.
You print your own ticket, this .pdf printout is all you need to board the Stena Line ferry & take the train from Harwich to London or any Greater Anglia station.
To buy tickets by phone: Stena Line's Dutch telesales line is 0900-8123 if calling from the Netherlands or +31 174 315 811 if calling from overseas, lines open 08:30-18:00 Monday-Friday, 09:00-17:00 Saturdays, Dutch time.
UK residents can try calling Stena Line UK telesales on 03443 350 027, open 08:30-20:00 Mondays-Fridays, 09:00-18:00 Saturdays, 09:00-17:00 Sundays, but for tickets starting in the Netherlands they may tell you to call their Dutch office.
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Step 2, buy a Dutch train ticket from Amsterdam to Schiedam Centrum.
The easy way: NS (Dutch Railways) now allow you to touch in and touch out with any Visa or MasterCard debit or credit card, or with your phone if you've linked it to your debit card. There's no need to buy a ticket or pre-plan, just place your debit or credit card against the reader on the ticket gate at the beginning of your journey to 'touch in' and it will open. Do the same to 'touch out' at the other end. The correct fare will automatically be debited from your bank account.
The regular way: If you want to travel 1st class and/or need tickets with child discount, you'll need to buy normal tickets in the normal way. Go to the NS (Dutch Railways) website www.ns.nl, click In English top right, and buy tickets. You print your own ticket or can show it in the NS app.
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Step 3, buy a metro ticket from Schiedam Centrum to Hoek van Holland Haven (or from Rotterdam Alexander to Hoek van Holland if changing from NS to the metro there), you can buy this on the day. You want a RET 2-hour ticket for around €4.
The easy way is simply to touch in and touch out with any contactless Visa or MasterCard debit or credit card and the correct fare will automatically be debited from your bank account. Remember to touch in using the card reader before you board the metro, and to touch out again at the end of your metro journey at Hoek van Holland.
Alternatively, you can buy a metro ticket using the self-service ticket machines at any RET metro station, or buy tickets on the RET app,
Route map
Click for larger map. Highlighted = London to Amsterdam train & ferry route. Green = scenic routes. Red = high-speed lines.
Reproduced from the excellent European Rail Map with kind permission of the European Rail Timetable people. I recommend buying the European Rail Map for your travels and a copy of the European Rail Timetable, www.europeanrailtimetable.eu with shipping worldwide.
What's the journey like?
1. London to Harwich by train
The train to Harwich International leaves from London Liverpool Street station in the heart of the City of London, see station location map.
There is no check-in, just board the train any time before it leaves. The departure board will tell you which platform it leaves from, staff will let you through the automatic ticket gates when you show your Stena Line e-ticket. The Stena e-ticket is all you need for this train journey.
The train is air-conditioned with free WiFi & toilets. There are no reserved seats, you sit where you like, you'll have no problem finding a seat. Luggage goes on the racks or simply on the floor. It's just 82 minutes to Harwich, you can also board the train at Stratford, Shenfield, Chelmsford, Colchester & Manningtree.
Tip 1: On a weekday evening, Liverpool Street station is busy with commuters and the station bars can be hectic. A more peaceful place to wait with a coffee or beer is the Eastway Brasserie (eastwaybrasserie.co.uk) or 1901 Wine Lounge, both part of the Andaz London Liverpool Street Hotel, formerly the historic Great Eastern Hotel. Go up the big escalators opposite platforms 1-4, exit the station and turn left along the station facade.
Tip 2: Your Stena Line e-ticket is all you need to board the train. It won't operate the ticket gates at London Liverpool Street so just ask staff to let you through.
Tip 3: Tickets are good for any train, not just the advertised ferry connections. When connecting with the night boat, why not catch an earlier train from London to Manningtree, have a pint and some food in the excellent station bar on the platform there, then travel on to Harwich?
Tip 4: If you want to be first onto the ship at Harwich, sit at the rear of the train - although the front of the train will be emptier if you want to spread out.
2. Harwich to Hoek van Holland by Stena Line ferry
At Harwich, the train arrives directly at the ferry terminal - you'll see the ship on your left as the train pulls in. Walk back along the platform towards the rear of the train, head up over the footbridge (there's a lift if you have heavy luggage or mobility problems) then go through the double glass doors at the London end of the platform into the ferry terminal and up the escalators to the first floor.
Boarding the ferry: Walk through the door marked Departures. Stena Line staff will check your ticket as you enter. Then you put your bags through the X-ray machine and walk through the metal detector, then have your passport checked by UK Border Force. You then get to the check-in desk where Stena Line staff scan the barcode on your e-ticket and print your cabin key and any meal vouchers. They'll give you your RET-NS Combi-ticket which is a disposable smartcard covering your onward RET metro & Dutch Railways (NS) train travel. If you're making a round trip, they'll give you a second ticket for the return journey. Now you walk up the passenger gangway onto the Stena Line superferry. Outside peak periods It can take as little as 15 minutes from train to ship, a far more relaxed experience than any airport.
On board: You enter the ship on deck 7, go up the stairs or lift to deck 9 where all the passenger facilities are located including bars, restaurants, shop, lounges & the guest services desk. All cabins are on decks 10 & 11. There is open-air deck towards the stern on deck 9 for some sea air and a sealed & ventilated smoking lounge forward on deck 9 if you're a smoker. The small Stena Plus Lounge (day crossings only) has complimentary tea, coffee, red & white wine, snacks & newspapers - although I think it's better to pay for a private cabin rather than the lounge, even on the day crossing, as you can snooze, shower, watch TV, or just relax or work in privacy.
WiFi: WiFi is available on board on deck 9 and in cabins, free for email & simple browsing with paid-for packages available for faster higher-bandwidth access. You can use your normal mobile phone data while the ferry is in or near port.
All-weather reliable, steady as a rock... The Stena Line superferries are 63,000 tons GT (Gross Tonnage), the largest Ro-Pax ships serving the UK, steady as a rock in almost all weathers. Indeed, I've crossed in winter as a 'named' Force 10 storm lashed the North Sea: Falling asleep before she sailed, I woke briefly in the night, felt some minor undulation, fell asleep again and woke at Harwich as we arrived spot on time. I've sailed to the Netherlands at Christmas watching BBC news on our cabin TV about Heathrow closed due of snow and all flights grounded - the Stena Liner sailed & arrived spot on time as always. This is the all-weather reliable route!
Choice of cabin accommodation
A private cabin is compulsory on the night boat, optional (but half-price and a good idea) on the day boat. All cabins have an en suite toilet & shower, satellite TV, all necessary bedding, towels, soap & shampoo. There a desk with power sockets (UK 3-pin & European 2-pin) for laptops & mobiles. Outside cabins have a window, inside cabins don't. Stena Line are so proud of their Dux beds they put the Dux logo on the cabin doors - and it's true, the beds are extremely comfortable. The satellite TV has BBC1, BBC2, ITV, Channel 4, and several Dutch Channels, plus a channel showing a forward view from the bridge and a channel which cycles through CCTV camera in the kennels so you can see your dog. Click the images for larger photos...
3. Hoek van Holland to Schiedam Centrum by metro
Disembarkation: Foot passengers gather on Deck 9 near the guest services desk as the ship docks, when the gangway opens just after docking you simply walk off the ship along the gangway into the Stena Line terminal. Your passport is checked by the Dutch police, then you walk out of the terminal building through the main rotating glass doors and across the forecourt to the RET (Rotterdam Transit) metro station. You can often be off the ship and onto a metro train in as little as 15 minutes.
Now take the metro! You don't need to have a ticket, just a hold a valid contactless bank card against the card reader on the metro station ticket gates and they will open. Your account will be debited with the adult one-way fare when you exit the metro at the end of your metro journey, it's as simple as that. If you have bought a metro ticket on your phone or at the self-service ticket machines, the barcode will operate the ticket gates.
Hoek van Holland is the starting point for metro line B, trains run every 20 minutes weekdays, every 30 minutes weekends, taking 23 minutes to Schiedam Centrum, 30 minutes to downtown Rotterdam & 50 minutes to Rotterdam Alexander. The end destination of line B is Nesselande. Luggage goes with you, on the floor or in a special luggage area.
Get off at Schiedam Centrum for mainline trains to Den Haag, Leiden, Haarlem & Amsterdam Centraal.
Get off at Eendrachtsplein for Rotterdam Centraal station. Eendrachtsplein to Rotterdam Centraal is an easy 850m 11 minute walk, see walking map.
Get off at Rotterdam Alexander for mainline trains to Gouda, Utrecht, Amersfoort, Zwolle, Groningen & Leeuwarden. There are no ticket gates at Rotterdam Alexander (at least, there weren't last time I was there), so remember to touch out from the metro & touch in again on the mainline platform if you are using a contactless bank card. Touching in and out is not necessary if you have a print-at-home ticket.
The Hoek of Holland-Rotterdam metro started running on 30 September 2019, after two years converting this former mainline route to light rail. The metro runs above ground all the way to Schiedam, over a right of way that until the 1990s was used by expresses from Hoek of Holland to places as far afield as Copenhagen or Moscow, running in connection with the ferries. A historic link!
Hoek van Holland metro station, literally just across the road from the ferry terminal main exit, the ferry terminal is out of shot to the left. There are ticket gates at the entrance to the platforms. You want the platform on the left for trains to Schiedam & Rotterdam. Metro photo courtesy of www.youtube.com/@MidlandLondon.
4. Schiedam Centrum to Amsterdam by Intercity train
For Delft, Den Haag, Leiden, Haarlem or Amsterdam, get off the metro at Schiedam Centrum. Schiedam Centrum has 4 metro platforms & 5 mainline platforms. The metro arrives on one side of the station, the train to Amsterdam leaves from platform 5 on the other side. Go down the escalators or lift from the metro platform, out through the metro ticket gates, then through the NS (Dutch Railways) ticket gates using a contactless bank card or by scanning the barcode on your e-ticket or printed ticket, then up the escalators or lift to platform 5.
The Dutch Intercity train to Amsterdam is double-deck, get an upstairs seat for the best views. There are toilets & free WiFi on board. Luggage goes on the racks or in the gaps between seat backs. You arrive at Amsterdam Centraal, walking distance from almost all of Amsterdam's sights. See Amsterdam Centraal station information.
Boarding the double-deck Intercity train at Schiedam Centrum, platform 5.
Tips for changing at Rotterdam Alexander
If you're travelling between Hoek van Holland and Gouda, Utrecht, Amersfoort, Zwolle, Leeuwarden or Groningen, it's quickest and easiest to change between metro & NS mainline trains at Rotterdam Alexander, a little way east of central Rotterdam.
Rotterdam Alexander is only a small station, with 2 metro platforms at street level & 2 Dutch Railways high-level platforms on an embankment reached by stairs, escalator or lift.
When travelling eastbound from London & Hoek van Holland you want NS (Dutch Railways) platform 1 for Utrecht & beyond.
When travelling westbound towards London you want metro platform 1 for Hoek van Holland.
Video guide: London to Amsterdam
Hotels in Amsterdam
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Tip: Book your accommodation in Amsterdam early, as it can be difficult to find rooms at peak periods at short notice, the better and cheaper rooms quickly sell out. You'll also find prices vary significantly even at the same hotel, depending on the season and what's going on in the city.
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The ultimate Amsterdam hotel is The Grand, now the Sofitel Legend The Grand Amsterdam. From around €300 per night upwards for a double room, this is one of the most famous hotel in Amsterdam, 5 minutes walk from Dam Square and 10 minutes walk from Centraal Station. For something smaller, slightly cheaper but equally special, try the Canal House boutique hotel, 15 minutes walk from the station, €205 upwards.
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Mid-range to top end: The Park Plaza Victoria Hotel gets great reviews and is very convenient as it's on the corner just across the road from Amsterdam Centraal station, doubles from around €135 upwards per night. In a similar price bracket, try the Kimpton de Witt Amsterdam Centre, 6 minutes walk from Amsterdam Centraal and also with excellent reviews.
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Mid-range: The Hotel Luxer is cheaper, from around €109 upwards per night, and also just 7 minutes walk from Centraal station with great reviews. Also try The Times Hotel, Hotel Tourist Inn or Daily Rooms Hotel. Or the Hotel Sebastians, around €115 per night, equally well located 10 minutes walk from Centraal station, another hotel which gets great reviews.
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Cheapies: There are many cheap hotels, including many near the station, but very few get outstanding reviews. For ones that do, try the floating boat hotel AmiciA (formerly Friesland), around €45 per night 15 minutes walk from the station or the Rembrandt Hotel from €80, 10 min walk from Dam Square though 20 minutes walk from the station.
Hotels in Rotterdam...
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The SS Rotterdam: Easily the most original place to stay in Rotterdam is aboard the moored 1959 transatlantic liner, the SS Rotterdam. It's a taxi ride or 50 minute walk from Rotterdam Centraal Station.
AirBnB: www.airbnb.com...
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www.airbnb.com began in 2008 when two designers who had space to share hosted three travellers looking for a place to stay. AirBnB is a platform which connects hosts with guests, so you can now book a room in people's homes, or an apartment, flat or house which people want to rent out. It can be nicer than a hostel, cheaper than many hotels.
Backpacker hostels: www.hostelworld.com...
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www.hostelworld.com: If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels. Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in Paris and most other European cities at rock-bottom prices.