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Turkey's new YHT high-speed train, linking Ankara, Konya, Eskişehir and (since 2014) the outskirts of Istanbul... |
A great way to get around Turkey!
Guidebooks tell you that Turkey has a good bus network, but do you really want to spend 12 hours in a bus? When you can travel on an inexpensive air-conditioned train, with a bed in cosy private sleeper or comfy Pullman seat with room to move, through fantastic scenery unspoilt by roadside development? Travellers who take the train rave about their experience. Much of the network was built by the Germans, and the joke goes that they were paid by the mile, hence the twisting nature of Turkish rail lines. And now, high-speed rail is here. The first section of high-speed line opened in 2009, and excellent high-speed trains now link Istanbul with Ankara in 4h15, Istanbul with Konya in 4h40, Ankara with Konya in 1h44. That beats a bus, any day...
Savvy travellers will use a train for long distances, for example, Istanbul to Ankara or Konya, Ankara to Izmir or Kars. Then use a short bus trip to reach places off the rail network, for example the South coast resorts or Cappadocia.
Train schedules & fares
International travel
Istanbul to/from Bucharest, Budapest,
Vienna, Munich, Paris & London
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Zagreb, Munich, Paris & London
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Syria,
Iran,
Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan,
Iraq & Ukraine
Other useful information
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Interactive map: Click a route for train times & fares...
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How to buy tickets
You can buy tickets online at the Turkish Railways (TCDD) website www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, or rather it's booking page, ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr.
See the instructions on how to use it below.
It will book most high-speed & long distance trains within Turkey (but not international trains), including seats, couchettes & sleepers. You print out your reservation details and pick up the tickets at the station in Turkey. It's quirky, but works and happily accepts non-Turkish credit cards even though most Turkish bus booking websites don't. Online reservations for Turkish trains open 30 days before departure for some trains, 15 days ahead for others, you won't see any trains if you look too far ahead.
Or buy tickets via a travel agency
If buying online proves difficult, you can buy Turkish train tickets in advance by emailing or calling one of these authorised travel agencies in Istanbul:
Amber Travel, see www.ambertravel.com/buy-turkish-train-tickets-in-turkey. They'll take bookings even before reservations open and make the booking as soon as it opens. They take payment via credit card or PayPal and email you the tickets.
Backpackers Travel, Yeni Akbiyik Caddesi No. 30, Sultanahmet, Istanbul, telephone +90 (212) 638 63 43, fax +90 212 638 39 22, website www.backpackerstravel.net.
Amber Travel comes highly recommended by several Seat61 travellers, and will go out of their way to get hold of a sleeper for you if they can. I have yet to receive any reports about Backpackers, but it's a well-known agency. Neither agency can book International trains from Turkey in their capacity as official TCDD agents, but they may be willing to buy tickets for international trains on your behalf as a private transaction, for a booking fee.
How to buy tickets at the station
It's easy to buy tickets at the station when you get to Turkey. Most major stations have a computerised ticketing & reservation system, so can book any journey in Turkey. It's not usually difficult to get seats on the day of travel or a day or two before, but sleepers (and even couchettes) can get fully-booked weeks ahead, so pre-book those either online or through one of the agencies suggested below. Stations accept Turkish lira cash, and may now accept credit cards. Booking for Turkish domestic trains opens 30 days before departure for some trains, 15 days ahead for others.
Tip: If you're over 60, ask for a senior ticket (yaşlı bilet) to get 15% off, or 50% if over 65. If you're under 26 ask for a youth ticket (genç bilet) to get 15% off.
Haydarpaşa station, seen from the deck of a Bosphorus ferry. Note the fire-damaged roof! Haydarpasa is being redeveloped as the terminal for high-speed trains to Ankara & Konya at some point. |
How to check train times & fares
You can check train times & fares at the Turkish Railways (TCDD) website, www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr.
The English version doesn't work (indeed their whole website goes down occasionally). So leave it in Turkish and be prepared to use the auto-translate feature of the Google Chrome browser.
For written timetables for high-speed trains between Istanbul, Eskisehir, Konya, Ankara click YHT.
For written timetables for classic long-distance trains such as Ankara-Izmir, Ankara-Kars, click Ana Hat.
For written timetables for regional trains such as Izmir-Selcuk-Denizli or Adana-Mersin-Iskenderun, click Bölgesel.
For the online booking system either to buy tickets or check times for both YHT and classic long-distance trains, go to the EYBIS booking page, ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr. Before buying tickets, read the advice here...
There are no trains to Antalya, Marmaris, Bodrum, Alanya, nor to Göreme in Cappadocia, you'll need a combination of train+bus to reach these places as shown here.
Haydarpaşa station
Trains for Asian destinations used to leave from the historic Haydarpaşa Station (pictured above right), a ferry ride across the Bosphorus from Sirkeci Station where the European trains arrive. Haydarpaşa station was built in 1908, a gift from the German Kaiser to the Ottoman Sultan, and named after one of the Sultan's generals. It was closed to long-distance trains in February 2012 when engineering work started to rebuild the rail approaches to Istanbul in connection with both the new high-speed line to Ankara and the new Bosphorus rail tunnel. However, welcome news is that TCDD ultimately want to redevelop the station as the terminal for the high-speed trains to Ankara and Konya. In the meantime, the station is still worth a visit, trains or no trains. Map of Istanbul showing Haydarpaşa & Sirkeci stations.
What are Turkish trains like?
High-speed trains: Yuksek Hizli Tren (YHT)
A pleasure to ride on and as good as anything in Western Europe, new 250 km/h high-speed trains operate on the Istanbul to Ankara, Ankara-Konya & Eskisehir-Konya routes and from April 2023, the Ankara-Sivas route. Known as YHT, Yüksek Hızlı Treni, they currently come in two varieties, the original type designed by Spanish company CAF and the newer type designed by German company Siemens. Both types feature comfortable seats in Economy and Business classes. YHT high-speed trains started running from Istanbul (initially from a suburban station called Pendik, 25km east of Istanbul) to Ankara on 26 July 2014, extended to Söğütlüçeşme in central Istanbul in March 2019.
YHT trains built by CAF
YHT trains built by Siemens
Watch the YHT video
Classic long-distance trains
Turkey's conventional trains are also a pleasant surprise. Cheap, spacious, and mostly now composed of modern air-conditioned TVS2000 coaches like the ones shown below, which are as good as any regular train in western Europe. TVS2000 trains run from Ankara to Izmir, Adana, Erzurum, Kars & Eastern Turkey, vastly superior to a cramped bus. They have several types of accommodation to choose from:
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Pullman seats. 1st class reclining seats in a carpeted air-conditioned open-plan saloon.
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Sleeping-cars (yatakli wagon in Turkish). Private 1 & 2-bed air-conditioned compartments with washbasin.
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Couchettes (kuşet in Turkish). Shared 4-bunk air-conditioned compartments.
TVS2000 Pullman seats cars
Turkish Railways' air-conditioned TVS2000 cars are modern, clean & carpeted. The reclining Pullman seats (below right) are more spacious & comfortable than any cramped bus seat, and the coaches ride on smooth air suspension.
TVS2000 restaurant cars
Restaurant cars are available on a number of trains. Although TCDD discontinued all its restaurant cars in January 2016, a new catering contract was let and the restaurant cars returned in mid-2016, though sadly with only cold food and drinks, no alcohol and no hot meals. Feedback appreciated.
TVS2000 sleeping-cars
Turkish overnight trains use modern air-conditioned TVS2000 sleeping-cars. Sleeper compartments have beds and a washbasin, soap and towels provided, and even a small fridge containing complimentary mineral water, soft drinks and snacks. There's even a shower at the end of the corridor. Compartments convert from a bedroom at night to a private sitting room with armchairs and small table for the daytime part of a journey. Trains with TVS2000 sleeping-cars include the night trains from Ankara to Istanbul, Ankara to Izmir, the Cukurova Express from Ankara to Adana, and the trains from Ankara to Erzurum, Kars, Diyarbakir & Tatvan. Travelling in these sleepers is a great way to travel that saves on hotel bills, too. Compartments are private: If you book 1 person, the price is for a whole single bed compartment. If you book 2 people, the price is shown for each person sharing a 2-berth.
TVS2000 couchette cars
Couchettes are basic padded bunks, with 4 bunks per compartment. Couchettes convert to ordinary seating compartments for the daytime part of a journey. TCDD used to offer couchettes without bedding on certain routes, but these days all couchettes are örtülü kuşet (covered couchette), with sheet, blanket and pillow provided. Most overnight trains such as the Eskisehir-Izmir, Ankara-Adana, Arifiye/Eskisehir-Konya-Adana and Ankara-Eastern Turkey trains now have modern air-conditioned TVS2000 couchette cars like the one below.
For more information, the train travel section of www.turkeytravelplanner.com is highly recommended.
The first section of the Istanbul-Ankara high-speed line opened in March 2009, when 250 km/h high-speed YHT trains (Yüksek Hızlı Treni) started running between Ankara & Eskişehir, see the photos & video above. In July 2014 high-speed YHT trains were extended to Pendik, a suburban station 25km east of Istanbul, and in March 2019 trains were further extended to Söğütlüçeşme in central Istanbul on the eastern side of the Bosphorus, just one mile southeast of the old Haydarpasa station. Two trains per day are extend through the Marmaray Tunnel under the Bosphorus to/from Bakırköy and Halkali on the suburban network on the western side of Istanbul, although from a visitor's point of view these don't call at Istanbul Sirkeci or anywhere conveniently central on the western side of the Bosphorus.
Söğütlüçeşme is a suburban station just 2km (1.2 miles) east of the old Haydarpasa station being used as the temporary terminal for YHTs as from 13 March 2019, see station location map.
To reach Sögütlüçesme from central Istanbul, take a Marmaray suburban train from Istanbul Sirkeci station through the Bosphorus rail tunnel 3 stops to Söğütlüçeşme. These run every 8 minutes, journey time 11 minutes, fare around TL 3 (0.50). Alternatively, you can take a ferry across the Bosphorus and walk. Ultimately, it's hoped that high-speed trains will be extended to a refurbished Haydarpaşa station.
Ankara station (Ankara Gar) is in central Ankara, see location map, unlike the bus terminal which is 2-3 miles outside the city or the airport 15-20 miles outside.
YHT = Yüksek Hızlı Tren = new 250 km/h high-speed train. YHT trains have a brief ticket and X-ray baggage check on the platform, so arrive for boarding 15 minutes before departure.
Sleeper = ANKARA EXPRESS sleeper train, with TVS2000 sleeping-cars (1 & 2 bed compartments with washbasin) and TVS2000 reclining pullman seats. Reinstated in July 2019 after an absence of some years.
You can check these times for your date of travel at ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr or as explained here.
How to buy tickets Istanbul to Ankara on the high-speed line is around 533km or 331 miles.
£1 = TL 19. $1 = TL 14 approx.
All these fares are one-way per person. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below! How to buy tickets.
Istanbul to Bursa to Ankara
Istanbul to Ankara via Bursa
An alternative route between Istanbul and Ankara is to take the regular fast passenger ferry across the Sea of Marmara to Bursa, then the special bus from Bursa to Eskişehir which runs in connection with 250 km/h high-speed train departures to Ankara. This route is also pretty scenic, taking you up the lush green slopes of Mount Uludag (the Olympus of Bithynia).
Step 1: Istanbul to Bursa by fast ferry
Fast passenger ferries sail from Istanbul's Eminönü ferry terminal near Sirkeci station to Bursa's Mudanya ferry terminal, 29km north of Bursa city. On a typical weekday, you'll find ferry departures like the ones shown below, but they vary by day of the week and time of year, so check sailing times for your date of travel at budo.burulas.com.tr.
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Istanbul to Bursa on a typical weekday: 08:30, 10:40, 12:00, 15:30, 18:00, 20:15, taking 1h50.
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Bursa to Istanbul on a typical weekday: 07:00, 09:00, 11:00, 15:00, 18:00, 20:15.
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The adult fare is TL 20. Youths & children aged 6 to 24 pay TL 16. Children under 6 go free.
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Buy tickets online at budo.burulas.com.tr or at the port.
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Competing operator IDO (www.ido.com.tr) also has ferries, sailing from Yenikapi (just south of central Istanbul) to Bursa.
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In Bursa, the ferry arrives at Budo's Mudanya ferry terminal which is some 29 km (18 miles) from the city of Bursa itself, buses F/1 & F/2 link the ferry terminal with Bursa's Otogar every couple of hours, journey time 60 minutes, fare around TL 4. For bus info see www.burulas.com.tr.
A more frequent alternative is to catch the yellow 1/M bus departing every 20 minutes from outside the ferry terminal building for the metro station at Emek Istasyonu, journey time 45 minutes, fare TL 2.50. Frequent underground trains run from Emek Istasyonu to Bursa city centre, journey time 30 minutes, fare TL 3.50. Demirtaspasa is the metro stop for Bursa's historic centre, 10 minutes walk away.
Alternatively, a taxi from Bursa Mudanya ferry terminal to central Bursa takes 30 minutes and costs around TL 60 (£17 or $25). If connecting directly with a bus to Eskişehir for the train to Ankara, allow at least an hour between the ferry arrival and the bus departure from Bursa Otogar.
Alternatively, there are a couple of daily fast ferries to Bursa from Istanbul's Yenikapi ferry terminal in the south of the city, and these also carry vehicles. Departures from Istanbul are at 07:30 (daily except Sundays), 17:30 (daily) and 20:30 (Fri & Sun only). Journey time 1 hour 30 minutes. Departures from Bursa are at 07:30 (daily except Sundays), 18:00 (daily), 20:30 (Fri & Sun only). See www.ido.com.tr to check ferry times and fares from Yenikapi to Bursa.
Step 2: Bursa to Ankara by bus & high-speed train combo
A bus company called Kamil Koc runs buses from Bursa bus station (otogar) to Eskişehir railway station specifically to connect with YHT high-speed train departures to Ankara. The bus arrives right outside the station entrance at Eskişehir 15 minutes before the train leaves. Just make sure you board the bus to Eskişehir station (Gar TCDD), not a similar bus to Eskişehir Otogar.
For trains Eskişehir -Ankara, see the Istanbul-Eskişehir -Ankara timetable above. Only a few minutes is needed to connect between bus & train.
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Bursa to Eskişehir by Kamil Koc bus costs TL 99. Check bus times at www.flixbus.com.tr.
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Eskişehir to Ankara by high-speed train costs TL 52 in Economy Class or TL 79 in Business Class.
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You can buy the bus & train tickets together if you go to Bursa bus station or Ankara railway station. There's a Kamil Koc desk inside Ankara railway station's main hall.
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To pre-book tickets in person in Istanbul, go to the TCDD ticket office at Sirkeci station to buy the train ticket, and find a Kamil Koc agency to buy the bus ticket.
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To buy tickets online, first book the train ticket between Eskişehir & Ankara at the TCDD website as shown here, then buy the bus ticket between Bursa & Eskisehir TCDD station at the Kamil Koc website www.flixbus.com.tr.
Istanbul to Konya, Adana, Antalya
YHT high-speed trains now link Istanbul Söğütlüçeşme station (2km or 1.2 miles southeast of the old Haydarpasa station) with Konya in just 4h40.
A comfortable express train called the Toros Express connects Konya with Adana over the curvaceous and very scenic classic line.
Connecting buses run between Konya and Antalya & Alanya in connection with the YHT trains, a much better way travel than by bus all the way from Istanbul.
YHT = Yüksek Hızlı Tren, 250 km/h high-speed train. YHT trains have a brief ticket and X-ray baggage check on the platform, so arrive for boarding 15 minutes before departure. These trains use the new high-speed line.
Toros = Toros Express, runs every day, TVS2000 pullman reclining seats cars & normal compartment cars. Booking opens 30 days ahead. This train uses the classic line. Work on the line has now been completed.
Bus = connecting air-conditioned coach, laid on specifically to connect with YHT train. In Konya, the bus leaves from outside the station.
Söğütlüçeşme is a suburban station just 2km (1.2 miles) east of the old Haydarpasa station being used as the temporary terminal for YHTs as from 13 March 2019, see station location map.
To reach Sögütlüçesme from central Istanbul, take a Marmaray suburban train from Istanbul Sirkeci station through the Bosphorus rail tunnel 3 stops to Söğütlüçeşme. These run every 8 minutes, journey time 11 minutes, fare around TL 3 (0.50). Alternatively, you can take a ferry across the Bosphorus and walk. Ultimately, it's hoped that high-speed trains will be extended to a refurbished Haydarpaşa station.
Halkali & Bakırköy: One train per day now extends through the Marmaray Tunnel under the Bosphorus to/from Bakırköy and Halkali on the suburban network on the western side of Istanbul, although from a visitor's point of view these don't call at Istanbul Sirkeci or anywhere conveniently central on the western side of the Bosphorus.
Alternative route between Istanbul & Adana: You can take a train from Istanbul to Ankara (see here for times & prices) then take the overnight Cukurova Mavi train from Ankara to Adana (or vice versa).
Check times for your date of travel at ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr. Check bus times at www.ozkaymak.com.tr.
How to buy tickets Map of Istanbul showing station location Connections to Tarsus & Mersin Connections to Iskenderun
£1 = TL 19. $1 = TL 14 approx.
All these fares are one-way per person. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below! How to buy tickets.
Istanbul to Denizli for Pamukkale
The Pamukkale Express is the smart way to reach Pamukkale. The old overnight Pamukkale Express from Istanbul to Denizli was cancelled several years ago due to work on the new Istanbul-Ankara high-speed line. But from January 2015, it's back! In its current form you take a modern high-speed YHT train from Istanbul to Eskişehir and change onto the Pamukkale Express, a modern air-conditioned day train direct to Denizli, the town next to the Pamukkale springs. It's the safe, comfortable, fun and time-effective way to travel, avoiding flights or nightmare long bus rides. Take a good book and be prepared for great scenery!
YHT = Yüksek Hızlı Tren = new 250 km/h high-speed train. YHT trains have a brief ticket and X-ray baggage check on the platform, so arrive for boarding 15 minutes before departure.
Pam. Exp = Pamukkale Express. TVS2000 reclining pullman seats with refreshment trolley.
Söğütlüçeşme is a suburban station just 2km (1.2 miles) east of the old Haydarpasa station being used as the temporary terminal for YHTs as from 13 March 2019, see station location map.
To reach Sögütlüçesme from central Istanbul, take a Marmaray suburban train from Istanbul Sirkeci station through the Bosphorus rail tunnel 3 stops to Söğütlüçeşme. These run every 8 minutes, journey time 11 minutes, fare around TL 3 (0.50). Alternatively, you can take a ferry across the Bosphorus and walk. Ultimately, it's hoped that high-speed trains will be extended to a refurbished Haydarpaşa station.
How much does it cost?
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Istanbul to Eskişehir by YHT costs TL 161 in Economy class or TL 242 in Business Class.
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Eskişehir to Denizli by Pamukkale Express costs TL 149 in a Pullman seat.
All these fares are one-way per person. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below! How to buy tickets.
Istanbul to Göreme & Cappadocia
Cappadocia is an incredible land of strange rock formations and cave dwellings that should not be missed. It's a nightmare 12+ hour bus journey all the way from Istanbul, but you can easily let the train take the strain for much of the way.
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Option 1: Take a comfortable high-speed YHT train from Istanbul to Ankara as shown in the timetable above. Then take the metro from Ankara station to the long-distance bus terminal, located a couple of miles out of the city centre (allow an hour for this). Buses run from Ankara to Nevsehir & Göreme in Cappadocia every couple of hours throughout the day, taking 4h30 to Nevsehir and 5h to Göreme, fare 240 TL. Buy a bus ticket at the bus station, as Turkish bus booking websites don't accept non-Turkish credit cards (by all means try). For bus times try www.nevsehirlilerseyahat.com.tr.
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Option 2: Take a comfortable high-speed YHT train from Istanbul to Ankara as shown in the timetable above. Then take a classic train from Ankara to Kayseri as shown in the timetable below. Kayseri is only 70 km from Göreme, so this is the shortest bus journey (maybe 1.5 hours) though a longer overall trip.
Option 1, Istanbul to Izmir by YHT & sleeper train
With the start of high-speed YHT trains between Istanbul and Eskisehir you can once again take an evening train from Istanbul to Eskisehir and pick up the air-conditioned sleeper train to Izmir with private 1 & 2 berth sleepers. It's a very affordable, time-effective and comfortable way to make this journey.
Söğütlüçeşme is a suburban station just 2km (1.2 miles) east of the old Haydarpasa station being used as the temporary terminal for YHTs as from 13 March 2019, see station location map.
To reach Sögütlüçesme from central Istanbul, take a Marmaray suburban train from Istanbul Sirkeci station through the Bosphorus rail tunnel 3 stops to Söğütlüçeşme. These run every 8 minutes, journey time 11 minutes, fare around TL 3 (0.50). Alternatively, you can take a ferry across the Bosphorus and walk. Ultimately, it's hoped that high-speed trains will be extended to a refurbished Haydarpaşa station.
YHT = Yüksek Hızlı Tren = new 250 km/h high-speed train. YHT trains have a brief ticket and X-ray baggage check on the platform, so arrive for boarding 15 minutes before departure.
Sleeper = Izmir Mavi Tren. TVS2000 sleeping-cars (1 & 2-bed compartments) & TVS2000 reclining pullman seats.
£1 = TL 19. $1 = TL 14 approx.
All these fares are one-way per person. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below!
How to buy tickets: If you buy online, you will need to buy Istanbul to Eskisehir and Eskisehir to Alsancak as two separate tickets. You should use Alsancak under 'A' for Izmir, Turkish Railways use the station names not the city names in their system.
Option 2, Istanbul to Izmir by ferry & train
An enjoyable way from Istanbul to Izmir is to sail across the Sea of Marmara to Bandirma by fast ferry, then take the air-conditioned 17 Eylül Express from Bandirma to Izmir. Much nicer than 9 hours stuck in a bus.
If you choose to stay overnight in Bandirma, you'll find the inexpensive but comfortable Panderma Port Hotel and Sahil Otel a stone's throw from the station & ferry terminal with good reviews.
Important: Ferry connections vary by date. Ferry times vary significantly from day to day and season to season so check ferry times for your dates at www.ido.com.tr. Ferry & train are right next to each other at Bandirma. You should check train times less than 30 days before departure at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr or ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr.
About the journey: The ferry is a fast seacat run by the IDO ferry company, see www.ido.com.tr to check ferry times & prices. The ferry terminal in Istanbul is called Yenikapi, see map of Istanbul showing location of Yenikapi ferry terminal. There's a 30 minute minimum check-in for the ferry. At Bandirma, the ferry arrives a stone's throw from the railway station, you can easily walk off the ferry and round onto the train. The 6 Eylül Express & 17 Eylül Express have modern air-conditioned TVS2000 reclining pullman seats, usually with a refreshment trolley, though I recommend bringing your own picnic for the journey.
How much does it cost?
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Istanbul (Yenikapi) to Bandirma by fast ferry costs from TL 120.
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Bandirma to Izmir by train in a pullman seat costs TL 140
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Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over must pay the adult fare.
How to buy tickets
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Buy the ferry ticket in person at the ferry terminal or online up to 30 days in advance at www.ido.com.tr, remembering that Yenikapi is the starting point in Istanbul. They ask for a phone number, to make it work you'll need to use a Turkish-format number, for example the phone number of your hotel.
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Buy the train ticket at the station when you get to Bandirma, or at Istanbul's Sirkeci station before you leave, or book online as shown here, a little quirky but works beautifully when you get the hang of it.
Traveller's reports...
Traveller Ryan White reports: "I went Istanbul to Izmir & back with the ferry+train and it was great. The train and ferry were both very comfortable and on time. One way Izmir to Istanbul or vice versa was about 30 TL ($20 dollars).
Traveller Patrick Curtis reports: "I took the 08:30 ferry from Yenikapi arriving Bandirma around 11:00 with the Izmir train scheduled to leave at 14:30. I passed a pleasant few hours relaxing in Bandirma. Just out of the ferry terminal towards the mosque you will find plenty of eateries including the Big Yellow Taxi Beer & Burger Hall. Up past that on the street is a Simit bakery selling nice sandwiches and spicy sausage rolls.
For onward travel from Izmir to Selçuk (Ephesus) and Denizli (Pamukkale) see this section.
Istanbul to Izmir by direct ferry
There used to be a cruise ferry from Istanbul to Izmir run by Deniz Lines, but this no longer runs.
Istanbul to Edirne & Kapikule
The international sleeper train from Istanbul to Sofia & Bucharest takes this route and is shown on the Istanbul to Sofia & Bucharest page. But a domestic train is now also running between Halkali, a suburban station 25km west of Istanbul Sirkeci, and Edirne and Kapikule as shown below. It has very comfortable air-conditioned TVS2000 cars. You can reach Halkali by frequent Marmaray suburban train from Sirkeci station, they run at least every 15 minutes, journey time 35 minutes but allow an hour.
Fare: Halkali to Edirne TL 104.
The trains have one class of seating only, no catering car.
Halkali is a suburban station 25 km west of Istanbul Sirkeci station.
To reach Halkali from central Istanbul, take a Marmaray suburban train from Sirkeci station (the new Marmaray platforms underground). These run every 15 minutes, journey time 49 minutes, fare around TL 3.25 (0.60).
Modern trains link Ankara with Izmir overnight, with comfortable 1 & 2 bed sleepers, see the TVS2000 sleeper photos.
Mavi = Izmir Mavi Tren. TVS2000 sleeping-car (1 & 2-bed compartments) & TVS2000 reclining pullman seats. Runs via Balikesir.
YHT = Yüksek Hızlı Tren = new 250 km/h high-speed train. YHT trains have a brief ticket and X-ray baggage check on the platform, so arrive for boarding 15 minutes before departure. By changing at Eskisehir, it's possible to have a later departure from Ankara westbound and an earlier arrival in Ankara eastbound.
You can check times and fares at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr or ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr
In 2010 the train switched to Izmir's Alsancak station, but since 2017 they've been using Basmane again. The Izmir Mavi was truncated for several years to run Eskisehir-Izmir with a YHT high-speed connection to/from Ankara, but as from 15 November 2018 it once again runs all the way Ankara-Izmir.
All these fares are one-way per person. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below! How to buy tickets.
Ankara to Denizli for Pamukkale
It's cheap, easy and comfortable to travel between Ankara and Denizli, for the famous springs at Pamukkale. You take a high-speed YHT train from Ankara's main station to Eskisehir then the Pamukkale Express to Denizli.
YHT = Yüksek Hızlı Tren = new 250 km/h high-speed train. YHT trains have a brief ticket and X-ray baggage check on the platform, so arrive for boarding 15 minutes before departure.
Pamukkale Express = TVS2000 reclining pullman seats with refreshment trolley.
How much does it cost?
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Ankara to Eskişehir by YHT costs TL 110 in Economy class or TL 165 in Business Class.
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Eskişehir to Denizli by Pamukkale Express costs TL 149 in a Pullman seat.
All these fares are one-way per person. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below. How to buy tickets.
Ankara to Konya, Alanya, Antalya
A new high-speed line linking Ankara with Konya opened in August 2011. 250 km/h (156 mph) high-speed trains with economy and business class air-conditioned seating and a cafe-bar car now link Ankara & Konya in 1 hour 40 minutes, see the photos & video above. Previously, you could only travel between these cities via a roundabout route that took over 10 hours. The journey from Ankara to Konya is around 309 km (193 miles), including 212 km of new high-speed line. The Turkish term for high-speed train is YHT or Yüksek Hızlı Tren.
In Konya, air-conditioned buses connect for Karaman, Alanya & Antalya as shown below. This YHT/bus combo is much better than a log bus journey all the way from Ankara.
The Antalya & Alanya bus connection: Turkish Railways have teamed up with the Özkaymak bus company (www.ozkaymak.com.tr) to offer a seamless train+bus combo service from Ankara to Alanya & Antalya. You take a YHT high-speed train between Ankara & Konya, a bus is waiting outside the station when you arrive at Konya to take you to Alanya or Antalya, as shown above. Times at Alanya/Antakya are shown in brackets to indicate that this is a connection, not a direct train to or from Ankara! The bus route is very scenic, over some green and untouched parts of the Taurus mountains. Turkish Railways claim this YHT/bus combo saves 2 hours over a direct bus to or from Ankara, and it's a lot more comfortable. Check bus times at www.ozkaymak.com.tr.
The Adana connection: See the section below.
All these fares are one-way per person. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below! How to buy tickets.
There's no better way to travel between Ankara and Adana than by train. Take a high-speed YHT train to Konya and change for a journey over the spectacular Taurus mountains to Adana aboard the Toros Express.
YHT = by excellent YHT high-speed train between Ankara & Konya with business class and economy class seats.
Toros = by Toros Express with pullman seats between Konya & Adana. Superb scenery through the Taurus mountains.
I have shown sensible connections here, which allow for delay.
Cukurova = The Ankara-Adana sleeper train is temporarily cancelled due to long-term engineering work since 2016.
Check times for your date of travel at ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr.
All these fares are one-way per person. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
How to buy tickets. Connection to Tarsus & Mersin Connection to Iskenderun.
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below! How to buy tickets.
Istanbul & Ankara to Eastern Turkey
It's a long way to eastern Turkey, but the trains have sleeping-cars and couchettes for a comfortable and wonderfully scenic journey, making the train far more comfortable, civilised and enjoyable than any cramped long-distance bus. Most trains now use modern air-conditioned TVS2000 sleeping-cars and reclining seat cars. For the weekly onward train to Iran, see the London to Iran page. For onward connections to Georgia, Azerbaijan and Armenia, see the Caucasus page.
As you can see from the timetable, you take a YHT high-speed train from Istanbul to Ankara, then the classic trains from Ankara eastwards.
Check times for your date of travel at ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr.
* = You may prefer to travel from Istanbul to Ankara the previous evening, see the Istanbul-Ankara section.
Istanbul S.csme = Istanbul Söğütlüçeşme, a suburban station just 2km (1.2 miles) east of the old Haydarpasa station being used as the temporary terminal for YHTs as from 13 March 2019, see station location map.
To reach Sögütlüçesme from central Istanbul, take a Marmaray suburban train from Istanbul Sirkeci station through the Bosphorus rail tunnel 3 stops to Söğütlüçeşme. These run every 8 minutes, journey time 11 minutes, fare around TL 3 (0.50). Alternatively, you can take a ferry across the Bosphorus and walk. Ultimately, it's hoped that high-speed trains will be extended to a refurbished Haydarpaşa station.
YHT = Yüksek Hızlı Tren, new 250 km/h high-speed train. YHT trains have a brief ticket and X-ray baggage check on the platform, so arrive for boarding 15 minutes before departure. These trains use the new Istanbul-Ankara high-speed line.
4 Eylül Mavi Tren. Temporarily suspended. TVS2000 4-berth couchette cars, TVS2000 reclining pullman seats, & compartment seats. No sleepers.
Doğu Express. Runs daily with TVS2000 couchette car (4-berth compartments) & TVS2000 reclining pullman seats. This is the original Doğu Express, which became so popular after various newspaper articles about the spectacular journey that it was often fully-booked as soon as booking opened. In response to this, TCDD have created the all-sleeping-car Turistik Doğu Express (see below) and from 29 May 2019 replaced the sleeping-cars on this original daily Doğu Express with a couchette car. But the scenery is the same whichever train you choose, and the couchettes are comfortable. See YouTube video of a ride from Istanbul to Kars on the (original, pre-May 20-19) Doğu Express, also see the traveller's report below. Says one traveller (pre-2019): "Overnight on brilliant Dogu Express to Erzurum. A trip highlight."
Turistik Doğu Express. Runs 3 times a week from 29 May 2019 onwards: TVS2000 sleeping-cars (1 & 2-bed rooms) & TVS2000 restaurant car. This train is a new service starting 29 May 2019, created by TCDD Turkish Railways in response to the popularity of the original Doğu Express. It is all-sleeping-car with restaurant car, and stops briefly at several locations for off-train excursions. See YouTube video of a ride from Istanbul to Kars on the (original, pre-May 20-19) Doğu Express, also see the traveller's report below. Says one traveller: (of the original pre-2019 train) "Overnight on brilliant Dogu Express to Erzurum. A trip highlight."
Güney Express. Runs on certain days of the week as shown in the table above. TVS2000 sleeping-car (1 & 2-bed rooms), TVS2000 couchette car (4-berth compartments), TVS2000 reclining pullman seats, ordinary seats. Take your own provisions...
Van Gölü Express. Runs on certain days of the week as shown in the table above. TVS2000 sleeping-car (1 & 2-bed rooms), TVS2000 couchette car (4-berth compartments), TVS2000 reclining pullman seats, ordinary seats.
YHT high-speed trains Ankara-Sivas: In addition to the classic trains shown above, 3 high-speed trains in each direction started linking Ankara & Sivas every day from April 2023, taking just 2h33 on a much more direct high-speed line.
For onward trains to Iran, see the London to Iran page.
Check times for your date of travel at https://ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr.
How to buy tickets - booking for these Eastern Turkey trains opens up to 30 days before departure.
Istanbul to Ankara by YHT train costs TL 118 one-way in economy class or TL 178 in business class.
All these fares are one-way per person, fares for other journeys will be broadly similar. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
However, on the Dogu Turistik Express, there are no child, youth, senior or return trip discounts, only full price.
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below! How to buy tickets.
What are the sleeping-cars like?
What's the journey like?
Traveller's report
Traveller Matt Dwyer reports on a trip from Istanbul to Kars on the Dogu Express: "We went directly to the Haydarpaşa train station to buy tickets. It was quite simple to tell the ticket guy the date, train, and "Yatakli Vagon" (sleeper) and he handed us our tickets. We paid 53 TL one way, but that was with our teacher discount (I think any teacher or student can get that discount, he wasn't very strict about proof), but I expect a regular ticket would be about 70 TL (£19 or $30). Our Yatakli Wagon was the last car on the train, behind the cafe car, had 10 cabins with two beds each. They were not full, but we did pick up several groups along the way, especially in Ankara. The porters were very helpful and nice, announcing meals, making beds, etc. Our cabin was not luxurious, but certainly comfortable with a working sink, soap and hand towels, lock on the door from the inside (all my female friends asked me about that!), clean linens, etc. We felt no worries about leaving stuff in our cabin when we went to the cafe car. The toilet at the end of the car was clean for the first day, then started to get pretty grubby. The scenery is spectacular, especially the second day as you go along the Euphrates and the mountains and gorges are striking." This was written before the Dogu Express was equipped with modern air-conditioned TVS2000 sleeping-cars.
Izmir to Konya
Konya Mavi = Konya Mavi Tren, with modern air-conditioned TVS200 sleeping-car with 1 & 2-bed compartments & TVS2000 reclining pullman seats. These are all modern, fully-air-conditioned, soundproofed and smooth-riding TVS2000 cars.
All these fares are one-way per person. Return tickets cost 20% less than two one-way fares.
Children under 8 go free, children 8-11 travel for half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth (genç) fare.
Youths under 26 get 15% off (genç). Seniors 60-64 get 15% off (yaş 60-64), over 65s get 50% off (yaş 65).
You can check train times & fares and book online at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, but see the advice below! How to buy tickets.
Regular regional trains link Izmir Basmane station with Selçuk, the station for Ephesus, Çamlık, the station for the resort of Kusadsi, and Denizli for the magnificent natural springs at Pamukkale, simply buy a ticket at the station and hop on. Izmir to Selçuk is 78 km by train, the ruins at Ephesus are 3.8 km from the modern town of Selçuk, it can be walked or you can take a dolmus (local minibus). For the Istanbul to Denizli Pamukkale Express overnight train, see above.
The trains have 2nd class seats only, and are now operated by comfortable modern air-conditioned diesel trains.
Change in Aydin for buses to Bodrum, Marmaris, Datca.
Additional IZBAN metro trains Izmir-Selçuk: Electric suburban trains operated by IZBAN (www.izban.com.tr) now operate roughly every 75 minutes between Izmir Alsancak station and Selçuk in addition to the diesel regional trains run by TCDD shown here. Currently a change of train is necessary at Tepeköy when using these suburban trains. Suburban service will increase further when more project work is completed. You can check Alsancak-Tepeköy and Tepeköy-Selçuk train times at www.izban.com.tr. Fare around 16 TL.
Çamlık is the closest station to the resort of Kusadasi, 12 km (17 minutes) away by local minibus or taxi. At Camlik station there is a large open-air railway museum with many Turkish steam locomotives and one of Ataturk's private carriages complete with marble bath.
To check current times, go to www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr & run an enquiry.
How much does it cost?
Izmir to Selçuk TL 32
Izmir to Denizli TL 98
Denizli to Selçuk TL 72
Children under 8 free, children 8-11 half the adult fare, children 12 & over pay the youth fare. Seniors over 60 15% off, over 65 50% off. Youths under 26 15% off.
How to buy tickets
These are regional trains, most people just turn up, buy a ticket at the ticket office and hop on, there are always tickets available.
You can buy tickets online if you like using www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, see the advice about booking online here.
To reach the ruins at Ephesus
Get off the train at Selçuk, It's a pleasant 47 minute 3.8 km walk from the station to the ruins out of town and to the Kusadasi road, click here for walking route map. Alternatively, turn left outside the station and walk up the road running parallel with the train tracks. The otogar (bus station) is about 500 metres on the left with dolmuses (minibuses) leaving every 20 minutes (on the hour, 20 past & 40 past the hour) bound for Kusadasi. These dolmuses will drop you at the top of the road to Ephesus, an easy 1km walk to the ruins so ignore any taxi drivers touting for business here. Dolmus fare TL 6 from Selçuk to Ephesus road, TL 17 from Selçuk to Kusadasi. Feedback appreciated!
What are the trains like?
Adana to Tarsus & Mersin
Adana ► Yenice, Tarsus, Mersin
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Regional trains leave Adana daily at 05:45 and roughly every 30-60 minutes until 23:00.
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Journey time Adana to Mersin 45-66 minutes, Adana to Tarsus 28-39 minutes, Adana to Yenice 17-26 minutes.
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Fare Adana-Mersin 37 TL.
Mersin, Tarsus, Yenice ► Adana
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Regional trains leave Mersin daily at 05:45 and roughly every 30-60 minutes until 22:30
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All these trains call at Tarsus & Yenice. Journey time from Mersin to Adana 45 to 68 minutes.
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Fare Mersin-Adana 37 TL.
The trains between Adana & Mersin are modern air-conditioned diesel units like the one shown in the Izmir to Selçuk & Denizli section above.
To check current train times, go to the Turkish Railways website www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr. The information you need is not shown in the English version of their site, so you must leave it in Turkish, ideally using Google's Chrome browser with automatic translation. Select Bölgesel (= regional trains) at the top. Click the route you are interested in. Trains appear, click each train to see its schedule.
Connections from Istanbul & Ankara...
For train connections from Ankara to Adana, see the Ankara-Adana section above.
For train connections from Istanbul to Adana, see the Istanbul-Adana section above.
Adana to Iskenderun
Adana ► Iskenderun
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Regional trains run from Adana to Iskenderun 3 times a day, at 07:56, 14:27, 18:03. Journey time around 2h30.
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The train consists of a diesel locomotive and several modern air-conditioned carriages, 2nd class only. The trains start their journeys from Mersin.
Iskenderun ► Adana
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Regional trains leave Iskenderun for Adana daily at 07:15, 11:30, 17:15, journey time around 2h45. The trains continue to Tarsus & Mersin.
Fares & how to buy tickets
Adana to Iskenderun costs around TL 50.
Buy tickets at the station or even on board the train, no reservation necessary.
To check current train times, go to the Turkish Railways website www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr. The information you need is not shown in the English version of their site, so you must leave it in Turkish, ideally using Google's Chrome browser with automatic translation. Select Bölgesel (= regional trains) at the top. Click the Mersin-Iskenderun or Iskenderun-Mersin route, these travel via Adana. Trains appear, click each train to see its schedule.
Connections from Istanbul & Ankara
For train connections between Adana & Ankara, see the Ankara-Adana section above.
For train connections between Adana & Istanbul, see the Istanbul-Adana section above.
Traveller's report
Traveller Magnus Larsson reports: "On the minute the train departed from Iskenderun at 07.15 and made its way slowly through the outskirts of town. The Mediterranean sea became visible through the windows at times during the journey. The train was pretty full of passengers but with 2+1 seats there were generous space for all of us. The air-conditioning kept temperature in the wagons at a pleasant level all the time, even though the sun was shining strong when we arrived Mersin on schedule at 10.40. I bought tickets from the ticket counter at Iskenderun station but it is also possible to buy tickets on board."
Sivas to Samsun
Sivas ► Samsun
The line closed in September 2015 for a complete rebuild, but reopened in April 2023 with a daily train leaving every morning, journey time 8h. The train is an air-conditioned diesel unit with comfortable one-class seating.
Samsun ► Sivas
The line closed in September 2015 for a complete rebuild, but reopened in April 2023 with a daily train leaving every morning, journey time 8h. The train is an air-conditioned diesel unit with comfortable one-class seating.
Connections from Ankara to Sivas...
Starting in April 2023, three daily YHT high-speed trains link Ankara with Sivas taking just 2h33. They get fully-booked, so book ahead. You will need to stay overnight in Sivas between trains.
Alternatively, use any of the classic trains using the classic route shown in the Ankara to Eastern Turkey section above.
Traveller's report
Traveller Stefan Smith reports: "We used this service as part of a relaxed way to travel from the delightful little town of Amasya, nestled in the depths of a gorge in the Black Sea mountains, back to Ankara. First, we took the 11:32 train from Amasya to Sivas, a leisurely journey through some very pretty unspoiled mountain scenery and lush valleys, arriving at Sivas bang on time at a few minutes past 17:00. We then spent a nice evening in Sivas (the centre of which is a 20-minute walk from the train station), visiting its remarkable Seljuk remains, and having glasses of apple tea in the beautiful courtyards of former madrasas. Then, around midnight, we boarded the Dogu Ekspresi, en route from Kars, to Ankara, arriving around 10:00 the next morning. Much more relaxing than the 7-hour Ankara-Amasya bus journey we had endured a couple of days earlier!"
Buses to Bodrum, Marmaris, Fethiye
Istanbul ► Bodrum, Marmaris, Fethiye
OK, so there are direct buses from Istanbul to Antalya, Marmaris and the Mediterranean coast, but this is a nightmarishly long bus journey, especially if done overnight slumped in a cramped bus seat. Here's how to travel in civilised style with a minimum of time spent in a bus...
For Bodrum or Marmaris, first travel from Istanbul to Izmir by ferry & train or by YHT & sleeper train as shown above. It's a relaxing and enjoyable journey. Then take a local train from Izmir to Aydin railway station as shown here. Now take a bus from Aydin bus station to Bodrum or Marmaris. Aydin to Bodrum takes 2h40. Aydin to Marmaris takes 2h20. There's a range of buses daily, try www.pamukkale.com.tr.
For Fethiye, first travel from Istanbul to Denizli as shown here. Then take a bus from Denizli bus station to Fethiye. There are several buses daily, taking around 3h45. Try www.pamukkale.com.tr but there are several bus companies.
Buy bus tickets at the bus station, as most Turkish bus websites will not accept non-Turkish credit cards. There are so many buses and companies, it's usually fairly easy to get a seat on the next bus.
Ankara ► Bodrum, Marmaris, Fethiye
For Bodrum or Marmaris, first travel from Ankara to Izmir by YHT train and overnight sleeper as shown here. It's a civilised and enjoyable journey in your own cosy private sleeper. Then take a local train from Izmir to Aydin railway station as shown here. Now take a bus from Aydin bus station to Bodrum or Marmaris. Aydin to Bodrum takes 2h40. Aydin to Marmaris takes 2h20. There's a range of buses daily, try www.pamukkale.com.tr.
For Fethiye, travel by YHT high-speed train from Ankara to Konya station as shown above, then take a bus from Konya bus station to Fethiye. Try www.kontur.com.tr for bus times & fares.
Istanbul to Thessaloniki & Athens by train
There are now no trains from Istanbul to Greece.
Izmir to Thessaloniki & Athens by ferry
This is the nicest way to go. New in 2022, a direct ferry links Izmir & Thessaloniki several times a week from Spring until November, run by Levante Ferries, www.levanteferries.com. The crossing is overnight, 14 hours, with a range of comfortable cabins. Book it at the Direct Ferries website or www.levanteferries.com.
After reaching Thessaloniki overnight by ferry you can take a train to Athens in as little as 4 hours, www.hellenictrain.gr.
Turkey to Greece via a Greek island
Alternatively, you can take a ferry between southern/western Turkey & several Greek islands, then a domestic Greek ferry between those islands & Piraeus (the port of Athens).
Step 1, take a ferry from southern Turkey to either Kos, Lesvos, Samos or Rhodes:
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Ferries between Marmaris & Rhodes sail several times a week. See www.seadreams.gr for details, although you may find it easier to check and book at www.ferriesingreece.com. Journey time 1 hour by catamaran, 2 hours by car ferry.
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Ferries between Kusadasi & Samos sail once or twice daily (08:30 & 17:00) between early April & late October. See www.meandertravel.com/ferrytosamos/ for details. Journey time 1 hour 15 minutes minutes, fare around 30 (50 open return).
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Ferries between Ayvalik (a few hours north of Izmir by bus) & Lesvos (Mytilini) sail daily Monday-Saturday, crossing 1 hour 10 minutes, fare 30.
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A hydrofoil sails every day between Bodrum & Kos, fare 28, crossing 1 hour, Bodrum depart 09:30, Kos depart 15:30, see www.bodrumexpresslines.com.
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You may or may not need to overnight on the island, depending on schedules, but always allow several hours for connections at least.
Step 2: Take a ferry from Kos, Lesvos, Samos or Rhodes to Piraeus. Piraeus is the port of Athens, 25 minutes from central Athens by metro. The port on Lesvos is called Mytilini.
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For Lesvos (Mytilini) to Piraeus, see www.hellenicseaways.gr to check sailing dates, times, fares and to book online or use www.ferriesingreece.com. The voyage takes 9.5 hours.
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For Kos-Piraeus or Rhodes-Piraeus see www.bluestarferries.gr to check sailing dates, times, fares and to book online, or use www.ferriesingreece.com. Ferries normally sail Rhodes-Piraeus overnight, with cabins available.
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For Samos-Piraeus, see www.kallistiferries.gr or www.ferriesingreece.com.
Turkey to/from the rest of Europe
Istanbul ► Bucharest, Budapest, Vienna, Paris, London: See the London to Turkey page
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A daily overnight train links Istanbul with Bucharest, with connections for all of Europe, see the London to Turkey page (via Bucharest section) for details.
Istanbul ► Sofia, Belgrade, Zagreb, Munich, Paris, London: See the London to Turkey page
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A daily overnight train links Istanbul with Sofia with connections for all of Europe, see the London to Turkey page (via Belgrade section) for details.
Other international services
Istanbul ► Aleppo (Syria), Damascus, Amman (Jordan), Petra, Cairo (Egypt)
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Until the start of the conflict in Syria, there was a daily train & bus option from Istanbul to Syria. You took the daily air-conditioned sleeper train through great scenery from Istanbul to Adana (see above) then a bus to Aleppo in Syria. Then a 100mph air-conditioned train from Aleppo to Damascus. From Damascus you could catch regular daily buses to Amman in Jordan (a 4-5 hour journey), with onward buses & ferries to Petra, Aqaba & Egypt. See the London to Syria, London to Jordan & Egypt pages for information about each stage of the journey. You might be inspired by a blog about travel from the UK to Egypt this way, www.unplaned.com. Of course, for obvious reasons the Foreign Office currently advises against all travel to Syria. I hope the situation is resolved soon.
Istanbul / Ankara ► Tehran (Iran): See the Iran page.
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A weekly express train, the Trans-Asia Express, with modern air-conditioned sleeping-berths, runs from Istanbul & Ankara to Tabriz & Tehran in Iran. See the London to Iran page for full details & current status.
Istanbul / Ankara ► Tbilisi (Georgia): See the Caucasus page.
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You can travel by air-conditioned sleeper train across Turkey through great scenery, then bus to the Georgian border, then train to Tbilisi. See the Caucasus page for details.
Istanbul ► Yerevan (Armenia): See the Caucasus page.
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The Turkish/Armenian border is currently closed, and there is no train service between Turkey and Armenia. However, you can easily travel from Turkey to Armenia by first travelling from Istanbul or Ankara to Tbilisi in Georgia), then travelling from Tbilisi to Yerevan in Armenia by direct overnight train. See the Caucasus page for details.
Istanbul ► Baku (Azerbaijan): See the Caucasus page.
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You can travel by air-conditioned sleeper train across Turkey through great scenery, then by bus to the Georgian border, then train to Tbilisi, then by overnight train from Tbilisi to Baku. See the Caucasus page for details.
Istanbul & Gaziantep ► Mosul & Baghdad (Iraq)
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In February 2010, a new weekly train started between Gaziantep in south eastern Turkey and Mosul in northern Iraq, restoring train service between Turkey and Iraq. But unsurprisingly it's now cancelled.
Istanbul ► Odessa (Ukraine) by ferry...
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A weekly passenger ship and twice-weekly truck ferry used to link Istanbul with Odessa in Ukraine across the Black Sea, taking about 36 hours. For details of the current situation see the Ukraine page, ferry section.
Turkey ► Cyprus
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A daily fast ferry and regular conventional ferry link Taşucu in southern Turkey with Girne (Kyrenia) in northern Cyprus, just north of Nicosia. See www.fergun.net for ferry times, fares and booking. For train connections from Istanbul to Taşucu via Karaman, see the Cyprus page.
European Rail Timetable & Map
The
European Rail Timetable
(formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable)
has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus
currency & climate information. It is essential
for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair
travellers. Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of
publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing
department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and
resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014.
You can buy it online at
www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or
www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide).
More information
on what the European Rail Timetable contains.
Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south. Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted. See an extract from the map. Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).
How to buy train tickets online
The Turkish Railways website has a good online booking facility, revamped in 2014 and available (mostly) in English. The system will book most long distance domestic trains within Turkey, including seats, couchettes and sleepers.
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Go to ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr and click English top right...
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How to buy tickets online
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Remember that reservations for Turkish trains open 30 days before departure for some trains, 15 days ahead for others. You won't see any trains if you look too far ahead.
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Here's a direct link to TCDD's online ticket sales system: ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr. Click English top right.
Alternatively, there's a booking widget on the main www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr website which opens on ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr.
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Use the online system to buy Turkish domestic train tickets, it's pretty straightforward. It even allows you to select specific seats or sleeper berths from a plan.
Important: You should select Sales (= ticket purchase with online payment by credit card) not Booking (= online reservation where you have to pay for it at a TCDD station within a certain time frame).
Important: For Istanbul, enter istanbul with a lower case 'i' and select İstanbul (Söğütlü Ç.). For Ankara, select Ankara Gar.
Remember it can only book one train at a time, it cannot book journeys involving multiple connecting trains. So book each train you want individually.
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A few useful words & phrases as not every Turkish word is fully translated:
2+2 Pullman and 2+1 Pullman = seating with seats arranged either 2+2 or 2+1 across the width of the car.
YATAKLI = sleeping-car. On the plan, üst = upper berth, alt = lower berth. If you book 1 person, you get a whole 2-berth compartment.
Örtülü kuşetli = 4-berth couchettes. If you book 1 person, you get 1 berth in a shared compartment.
YHT = high speed train.
Tam = adult rate
çocuk = child rate = children under 12. Under 8s go free, 12 & over pay the youth fare.
genç = youth fare for anyone under 26 = 15% discount.
60-64 yaş = senior fare, 15% discount for anyone 60-64.
65 yaş = senior fare, 50% discount for anyone over 65.
Satış Sözleşmesini Okudum ve Kabul Ediyorum = "I have read & agree to the terms & conditions."
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TC Identification = Turkish ID card number. If you're not Turkish, you can leave it blank, or if you like you can enter your passport number. This field only accepts numbers not letters, so if you have an alpha-numeric passport number, leave this field blank.
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Turkish mobile phone number? You won't have one of these of course, and it doesn't matter as no-one is going to call you on it, so just leave this bit alone. If it insists, fake one.
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Remember that Google language tools will help with anything not fully translated, see www.google.co.uk/language_tools?hl=en
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You print out your reservation details and pick up the actual tickets at the station Turkey, although some or all tickets are now print-at-home complete with QR code, and with these you can just board the train.
To
get the most out of your trip, you'll need a good guidebook
- I'd recommend the Lonely Planets guides as about the best out there. The
Middle East guidebook is less detailed, but covers Egypt,
Syria, Jordan, Iran, Israel and other countries as well as
Turkey.
Click the images to buy online at Amazon.co.uk
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Hotels in Istanbul
Without a doubt, the famous and historic Pera Palas Hotel, where Agatha Christie, Mustafa Kemal Attaturk and even King George V have stayed, is the most interesting place to stay, see below. It wasn't that expensive, by grand hotel standards, although prices have risen after its recent complete refurbishment. The nearby Grand Hotel de Londres offers similar affordable grandeur, www.londrahotel.net, just 35 euros for a basic single, 50 euros for a double, more for a renovated room. It's apparently a favourite with archaeologists working in Turkey! Alternatively, the Yasmak Sultan is a good choice. For a good cheap hotel in the Sultanahmet travellers' area, try the Park Hotel. If you are on a tight budget and want a backpacker hostel room or dorm bed at a rock-bottom price, see www.hostelworld.com. For independent reviews of Istanbul hotels, see www.tripadvisor.com.
Pera Palas Hotel: Check prices
Easily the most famous and historic hotel in Istanbul is the Pera Palas, built in 1892 by the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits to accommodate the passengers arriving by train on the Orient Express from London and Paris. It was closed for refurbishment for several years, but reopened in 2010 with its delightfully faded grandeur fully restored. If your budget will stretch (prices after refurbishment will start at around 200 a night for a double room, up from around 100 in its previously faded form), it's a wonderful and historic place to stay. One of it's rooms has been kept as a museum to Turkish leader Ataturk, another room (411) was regularly used by Agatha Christie, and can actually be booked by guests. Book the Pera Palace online...
The Man in Seat 61 says: "Istanbul's famous Pera Palas hotel is a classic, one of my favourite hotels anywhere - admittedly much pricier after its refurbishment, but now a true 5 star hotel with helpful & friendly staff. It's a special place for my wife and I, it just happens to be where I told my wife she was pregnant with our first child, after the hotel's duty manager translated a certain Turkish word..."
Backpacker
hostels
If you're on a tight budget, don't forget the hostels. For a dorm bed or an ultra-cheap private room in backpacker hostels in most European cities use www.hostelworld.com.
Travel insurance & other tips
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Always take out travel insurance
Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover. It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit. An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself. Here are some suggested insurers. Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.
www.staysure.co.uk
offers enhanced Covid-19 protection & gets 4.7 out of 5 on
Trustpilot.
www.columbusdirect.com
is also a well-know brand.
If you live in the USA try
Travel Guard USA.
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Get an eSIM with mobile data package
Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for the country you're visiting and stay connected. Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list. Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.
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Get a Curve card for foreign travel
Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top. A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month at time of writing. The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.
How it works: 1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android. 2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses. 3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card. 4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app. You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.
I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader. The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than digging a card out). I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great. See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.
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Get a VPN for safe browsing. Why you need a VPN
When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure. A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi. It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply. See VPNs & why you need one explained. ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription. I get a small commission to help support this site.
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Carry an Anker powerbank
Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged. I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet. Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from Buy from Amazon.com.