Which station in Istanbul? See map
It used to be simple: European trains including the Orient Express arrived at Sirkeci station on the western side of the Bosphorus. Ferries shuttled across the Bosporus between Eminönü (next to Sirkeci) and Haydarpasa station on the Asian side from where trains left eastwards to Ankara, Konya, Aleppo, Tehran & Baghdad.
Today, the daily international train from Sofia & Bucharest terminates at Halkali, a suburban station 25 km (15.5 miles) west of Sirkeci. Frequent suburban trains called Marmaray link Halkali, Sirkeci & a former suburban station called Söğütlüçeşme 2 km southeast of Haydarpaşa using the Marmaray rail tunnel under the Bosphorus opened in 2013. The high-speed YHT trains to Ankara and Konya leave from Söğütlüçeşme.
Halkali station - where the train from
Sofia/Bucharest arrives, 25 km west of Sirkeci.
Sirkeci station - in the city centre
on the western side of the Bosphorus, where most visitors want to be.
Haydarpasa station - a historic landmark on the Asian side,
closed in 2012.
Söğütlüçeşme station - on the
Asian side, from where trains leave for Ankara & Konya.
Halkali station
Arriving at Halkali &
transfer to Sirkeci
Leaving from Halkali &
transfer from Sirkeci
Overview
Halkali is a modern 8-platform suburban station 25 km (15.5 miles) west of Istanbul where the international train to/from Sofia & Bucharest starts/terminates.
It's the starting point for the frequent Marmaray suburban trains to Sirkeci station in central Istanbul, these continue through the Bosporus tunnel to Söğütlüçeşme station & Gebze on the Asian side.
Turkish regional trains to/from Edirne start/terminate at Halkali. One or two high-speed YHT trains to Ankara and the Ankara Express sleeper train to Ankara start from here using the Marmaray tunnel under the Bosporus, although most YHT trains start from Söğütlüçeşme.
The station has 4 island platforms (peron 1-4) serving 8 tracks (yol 1-8). Steps, escalator and a lift connect each island platform with an overbridge. The ticket office, waiting room and ticket machines are all located on the overbridge. See location map.
Arriving at Halkali & transfer to Sirkeci
When you arrive from Bucharest or Sofia, the main task is to buy an Istanbulkart and hop on a Marmaray suburban train to Sirkeci station in central Istanbul. However, you might want to get some Turkish cash out whilst at Halkali, and perhaps make a return reservation to Sofia or Bucharest or buy some onward Turkish train tickets.
1. You arrive on one of the mainline platforms. Above, the sleeper from Sofia & Bucharest has arrived on platform 3 track 5, and that's the Ankara Express sleeper from Ankara on the left on track 6. The overbridge is in the background. A Marmaray train is just visible over to the right on platform 1.
2. Go up the escalator onto the overbridge and walk over to the two Marmaray (suburban) platforms. You walk past the X-ray machine and metal detector used for passengers boarding the westbound train to Sofia/Bucharest.
3. You're now on the overbridge above the Marmaray platforms. The yellow arrow indicates the two Istanbulkart ticket machines. The white arrows indicate the ticket gates and escalators down to the Marmaray platforms. Gates on both sides lead to platform 1 (tracks 1 & 2), but only the right-hand side has a lift as well as escalator. In the background you can see the steps and escalator down to the main station exit.
Tip: If you need Turkish cash there's an ATM just outside the station exit, on the left. It's a good idea to get some cash, many Istanbul taxis don't accept cards.
Tip: There's a TCDD mainline ticket office here too, behind the camera. If you want to book onward trains to Ankara or Konya, or make a reservation for your return to Sofia or Bucharest, do it here when you arrive. There are seldom any queues, so Halkali is a good place to do this.
4. Buy a ticket from the ticket machines.
Option 1 is to buy an Istanbulkart public transport smartcard, you'll find it useful for all public transport in Istanbul during your stay including ferries, metro, tram and the funicular up to Galata. One Istanbulkart can be used by up to 5 people.
In 2025 the card itself costs 165 TL (3.45). You can load it with any amount of credit you like, depending what you plan to use it for whilst in Istanbul.
In 2025, one ride on Marmaray costs 59.76 TL (1.25) when using credit on an Istanbulkart.
Turkey has significant inflation, so check current Marmaray fares at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr/marmaray/tr/ucretlendirme (use Google translate).
Switch the machine to English by clicking the language icon bottom right, then select the UK flag. Then click Istanbulkart Buy. Then click Credit / Debit card. Then enter the amount of credit you want to load onto the card. Tap your bank card on the contactless reader to pay and your Istanbulkart clatters into the tray loaded with the selected credit.
Option 2 is to buy a 3 Pass Ticket ticket for 110 TL (2.30), this covers 3 rides on the Marmaray. It can be used by up to 3 people. But you can't buy just one ticket!
5. Go through the Marmaray ticket gates using your Istanbulkart or 3 Pass Ticket and down the escalator, lift or steps onto platform 1. If multiple people are travelling on one Istanbulkart (or one 3 Pass Ticket) simply tap it repeatedly on the ticket gates to let each person through.
6. Take a Marmaray train from Halkali to Sirkeci. These leave at least every 15 minutes from either side of platform 1 (tracks 1 & 2), journey time 35 minutes. An indicator shows which train will leave first. Halkali is the end of the Marmaray line, all trains go to Istanbul, final destination is usually Gebze on the Asian side.
The Marmaray trains travel at ground level as far as Yenikapi, then through tunnels to reach Sirkeci's underground Marmaray platforms. Look out for the Walls of Theodosius just after leaving Kazlıçeşme. Trains continue through the Bosphorus tunnel to Söğütlüçeşme on the Asian side for YHT trains to Ankara & Konya,
Or experience the original mainline railway into Sirkeci
The original railway into the ground-level platforms at Sirkeci still exists, but it's been single-tracked and is now used by Kazlıçeşme-Sirkeci local trains, with a cycle path where the other track used to be. If you'd like to experience the original railway into Sirkeci station, curving around along the shores of the Bosporus under the walls of the Topkapi Palace, as used by the Orient Express until 1977 and by all international trains until 2013, simply get off the Marmaray train at Kazlıçeşme. Go down the escalator and out of the Marmaray exit gates, then through the Kazlıçeşme-Sirkeci ticket gates and up the escalator onto the Kazlıçeşme-Sirkeci platform. U3 local trains run from Kazlıçeşme to two designated ground-level platforms at Sirkeci every 25 minutes along the original main line through Kumkapi & Cankurtaran. The fare is the same as for Marmaray, you can use your Istanbulkart. This route map makes it clear (please let me know if the link stops working).
Or transfer to your hotel by taxi
It's 25 km (15.5 miles) to downtown Istanbul. If you prefer to go direct to your hotel by taxi, it should cost the equivalent of 25, but you'll be lucky if they use a meter, you may well be charged 40-50. Istanbul taxis may or may not take cards so make sure you have cash, there's an ATM just outside Halkali station entrance on the left and several more a couple of minutes walk away.
Transfer from Sirkeci & leaving from Halkali
1. Check the departure time. When catching the international train to Sofia or Bucharest, double-check that day's departure time with Turkish Railways as it can occasionally vary. To be on the safe side, I'd leave Sirkeci around 1h30 before it's is due to leave Halkali. You can stock up with food & drink at Halkali.
2. Buy a Marmaray ticket. If you already have an Istanbulkart for public transport in Istanbul, you can use this for the Marmaray. In 2025, one ride on Marmaray using an Istanbulkart costs 59.76 TL (1.25).
If you haven't got an Istanbulkart, go to a yellow ticket machine at Sirkeci Marmaray station. Switch it to English by clicking the language icon bottom right, then select the UK flag. Then click 3 Pass Ticket and buy a 3-ride Marmaray ticket for 110 TL (2.30). Payment can be made by any contactless bank card. You can use this for up to 3 people, tap it repeatedly on the ticket gate to let each person through. Unfortunately you can't buy just one ticket!
Turkey has significant inflation, so check current Marmaray fares at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr/marmaray/tr/ucretlendirme (use Google translate).
4. Take a Marmaray train from Sirkeci to Halkali. These leave at least every 15 minutes from the underground Marmaray platforms at Sirkeci, journey time 35 minutes. The trains run underground from Sirkeci as far as Yenikapi, where they surface. You'll glimpse the historic Walls of Theodosius soon after the train emerges into daylight. Halkali is the end of the line, Marmaray trains terminate here.
5. You arrive at Halkali on platform 1, served by the two Marmaray tracks, tracks 1 & 2. Go up the escalator onto the overbridge, pictured below. The red arrow indicates the TCDD (Turkish Railways) ticket office, the blue arrow indicates the way to the waiting room & vending machines and the white arrow indicates the X-ray machine & metal detector for boarding mainline & international trains. The main station exit is behind the camera, down an escalator or steps.
6. Stock up! Remember there's no catering on the international train to Sofia/Bucharest, so stock up for the journey. The station has no shops, just a few vending machines, but there's a Bașaran minimarket 6 minutes walk away, see walking map, and a BIM minimarket a few metres beyond that, see walking map. I found the Bașaran better then the BIM.
7. Where to wait: After stocking up, either sit in the station waiting room (bekleme salonu, indicated by the blue arrow in the photo above) or you could have tea at the pleasant but basic open-air Vagon Cafe (pictured below) just outside the station, see walking map.
8. Boarding starts 30 minutes before departure when they open up the X-ray and metal detector security check to the left of the ticket office, shown by the white arrow in the photo above. Immediately after the rather pointless security check a member of staff will check your ticket, then you go down the escalator, steps or lift onto the platform and board the train to Bucharest/Sofia.
Or experience the original mainline railway from Sirkeci
The original railway out of the ground-level platforms at Sirkeci station still exists, but it's been single-tracked and is now used by Sirkeci-Kazlıçeşme local trains, with a cycle path where the other track used to be. If you'd like experience the original railway out of Istanbul, curving around under the walls of the Topkapi Palace as the international trains used to do until 2013, here's how: Take a Sirkeci-Kazlıçeşme local train from Sirkeci's surface platforms (clearly signed Sirkeci-Kazlıçeşme) to Kazlıçeşme, these run every 25 minutes. The fare is the same as for the Marmaray, use your Istanbulkart to go through the ticket gates. At Kazlıçeşme, go down the escalator into the underpass and exit the ticket gates. Then go through the Marmaray ticket gates and up the escalator onto the platform for a Marmaray train to Halkali, these run every 15 minutes. Obviously, allow some extra time if you go this way. This route map makes it clear (please let me know if the link stops working), the original railway runs through Kumkapi & Cankurtaran.
Or transfer from your hotel by taxi
It's 25 km (15.5 miles) from downtown Istanbul to Halkali. If you prefer to go direct from your hotel by taxi, it should cost the equivalent of around 25 although you may end up paying 40-50. Istanbul taxis may or may not take cards, so make sure you have cash.
Sirkeci station
Overview
Opened in 1890, Sirkeci is Istanbul's original terminus on the European side of the Bosporus, where the Orient Express arrived, see location map. However, it's been closed to mainline & international trains since March 2013, these now start/terminate at Halkali. Sirkeci is at the heart of central Istanbul, walking distance from the Bosphorus ferries, Topkapi Palace, Haghia Sofia, Blue Mosque and World Famous Pudding shop. Most people stay within striking distance of Sirkeci, including at my favourite hotel, the famous Pera Palace opened in 1895 for passengers arriving on the Orient Express. Read more about the station's history at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sirkeci_railway_station.
Sirkeci is now only served by suburban trains: Marmaray trains link Halkali, Kazlıçeşme, Yenikapi, Sirkeci, Söğütlüçeşme & Gebze every 15 minutes, these use Sirkeci's two modern underground platforms. Sirkeci-Kazlıçeşme local trains on line U3 leave every 25 minutes from two designated surface platforms, over what was the original main line to the rest of Europe. A couple of mainline platforms alongside to the original historic station building remain unused and are currently behind hoardings.
How Sirkeci used to look
Sirkeci station in September 2005, author's photo. The station building sits alongside what was originally main arrivals platform.
Sirkeci station in around 2020, viewed from the corner. On the left. the old station building alongside the platforms. On the right, the more modern main entrance, end-on to the tracks. Courtesy of Discoverbyrail.com.
Inside Sirkeci there used to be a restaurant in part of the old building. Courtesy of Discoverbyrail.com.
On the left, the old building. Straight ahead is a platform that could be used for international trains, but isn't. On the right is one of the two gated platforms used by the Sirkeci-Kazlıçeşme local trains over the original railway. In 2025, this whole area is boarded up for restoration and inaccessible. Courtesy of Discoverbyrail.com.
Renovation work from 2025
Below, how Sirkeci station looks in 2025. The original station building, the area in front of it, the interior concourse including ticket office and former restaurant, are all now completely cordoned off by a huge hoarding. The station is being renovated as a national landmark by the ministry of culture & tourism.
Entrance & concourse
Only the right-hand side of the station's front entrance remains open. Walk in here for Marmaray & Sirkeci-Kazliçesme trains, and for the temporary TCDD ticket office.
Only the right-hand side of the original concourse remains open. The red arrow indicates the temporary TCDD ticket office. The white arrow indicates the entrance to Sirkeci Marmaray station for trains to Halkali & Söğütlüçeşme. You can see the builders hoarding on the left.
Tickets & reservations
The original ticket windows are currently inaccessible behind the builders hoarding.
TCDD have opened a temporary ticket office (pictured below) in the remaining part of the station, on the left as you walk from the station entrance towards the Marmaray entrance. It can sell Turkish Railways mainline tickets and tickets for the international train to Sofia & Bucharest. Opening hours reported as 11:00-19:00 daily.
Marmaray platforms
If you walk through the station concourse and back out into the open air, the entrance to Sirkeci Marmaray station is in front of you, pictured below. Inside are ticket gates, go through these with an Istanbulkart or 3 Pass Ticket. Marmaray trains link Halkali, Sirkeci, Sögütlüçesme and Gebze at least every 15 minutes.
The platforms are deep underground, it takes several flights of escalators to get down there. There are two underground Marmaray platforms, one for each direction. The photo below shows the westbound platform for trains to Halkali.
Sirkeci-Kazlıçeşme platforms
To reach the Sirkeci-Kazlıçeşme platforms, walk into the station entrance, through what remains of the station concourse and into the open air again. Pass to the left of the Marmaray entrance to find these two platforms. Use an Istanbulkart to get through the ticket gates.
Every 25 minutes a local train leaves from these ground-level platforms for Yenikapi and Kazlıçeşme over the original mainline railway out of Sirkeci. The line used to be double track, it's been singled with a cycle path alongside for much of it, and the original suburban stations have been beautifully restored.
In the photo below you can see part of the original historic station building on the left, across the tracks.
Entrance to Sirkeci-Kazlıçeşme platforms, with ticket gates. Below, a Sirkeci-Kazlıçeşme train.
Hotels in Istanbul
After arriving at Sirkeci, the traditional place to stay is the famous Pera Palace Hotel, as I explain on the Pera Palace page. It's not just a roof over your head but an Istanbul landmark since 1895, built for passengers arriving at Sirkeci on the Orient Express. Famous guests include Agatha Christie, Ernest Hemingway, Alfred Hitchcock, Greta Garbo, Turkey's Mustafa Kemal Atatürk and Britain's King Edward VIII and Queen Elizabeth II. If you're up for a modest splurge, this is the place! Check prices and book.
if you can't stretch to the Pera Palace, the nearby Grand Hotel de Londres offers similar grandeur at a much cheaper price and is apparently a favourite with archaeologists working in Turkey. The Hotel Yasmak Sultan is a good inexpensive choice, this time in the popular Sultanahmet area near the Blue Mosque, Haghia Sofia and World Famous Pudding Shop and a 5-minute 400m walk from Sirkeci station.
Haydarpaşa station
The magnificent Haydarpaşa station was Istanbul's original Asian-side station from 1909 to 2012, handling expresses to Ankara and even Syria, Iran & Iraq. Sadly since 2012 it's no longer served by any trains at all, these all now start at Sögütlüçesme 2 km away. There were long-term plans to bring the trains back to Haydarpasa, but these seem to have been dropped. Ferries used to run from Eminönü (near Sirkeci) to Haydarpaşa's ferry pier, the small the grey building on the left of the photo below. The photo was taken from an Eminönü to Kadıköy ferry, these pass by Haydarpaşa. Learn more about the station's history at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haydarpasa_railway_station.
Haydarpaşa station in 2025. The old Bosporus ferry terminal is the small white building in front of it, on the left of the photo.
Söğütlüçeşme station
Söğütlüçeşme is a former suburban station 2 km southeast of Haydarpaşa which currently serves as starting point for YHT trains to Ankara & YHT trains to Konya. It also handles Marmaray suburban trains running from Halkali & Sirkeci through the tunnel under the Bosporus to Gebze on the Asian side. See location map.
How to reach Söğütlüçeşme
Frequent Marmaray suburban trains run from Halkali & Sirkeci to Söğütlüçeşme. They leave Halkali every 15 minutes taking 48 minutes, they leave Sirkeci's Marmaray platforms every 7-8 minutes taking 13 minutes. The fare is 59.76 TL (1.25, 2025 price) when using credit on an Istanbulkart. Buy an Istanbulkart public transport smartcard from the ticket machines and load it with value.
Overview
The station has relatively few facilities, it's little more than a passageway under the tracks. However, there's shopping centre next to it built under the same railway viaduct if you want somewhere to eat or stock up for the journey.
Main entrance to Söğütlüçeşme station. The tracks are on a viaduct one level above.
Inside the entrance in the first half of the passageway under the tracks, you'll find a row of ticket gates either side, beyond which there are escalators, steps and lifts up to the Marmaray platform. Note the ticket windows, for mainline ticket sales.
Beyond that, in the second half of the passageway are the entrances for YHT high-speed trains. Each entrance has an X-ray machine and metal detector security check (pictured below), then a ticket check, then escalators up to the YHT platforms. Note the steam locomotive on a plinth on the far side.
When arriving at Sögütlüçesme by YHT train, you'll go down escalators from the platform and emerge through unmarked doors into this passageway.
Tickets & reservations
There are several ticket windows in the passageway below the tracks selling domestic mainline tickets, you can't buy tickets for the international train to Sofia & Bucharest at Söğütlüçeşme.
Platforms
There are 3 island platforms built on a viaduct high above street level, each platform has a track either side. The photo below is taken from the eastbound Marmaray platform (track 2), looking east towards Gebze.
Marmaray trains use tracks 1 & 2, either side of the first platform, accessed through the ticket gates at ground level. Westbound trains to Sirkeci & Halkali leave from track 1 (out of shot to the left), eastbound trains to Gebze from track 2.
YHT trains leave from the second platform, tracks 3 & 4, accessed via a security check and ticket check at ground level. The photo below shows a YHT of the Siemens Velaro type on track 3. Another YHT platform will be open soon.
A YHT train (Siemens Velaro type) at Söğütlüçeşme.
A Marmaray train to Sirkeci & Halkali rolls into the westbound Marmaray platform (track 1).