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Destination plate on the side of the train (car number 485 is the couchette car) |
To Istanbul by train...
One train per day links Europe with Istanbul, a sleeper train called the Sofia-Istanbul Express. This runs from Sofia to Istanbul every day all year with sleeping-cars & couchettes. From June until October it conveys a direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul, at other times of year you travel from Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad in Bulgaria on a series of connecting trains where you join the sleepers or couchettes of the Sofia-Istanbul Express to Istanbul. This page explains train times, fares & how to buy tickets.
Train times eastbound 2023, similar service expected in 2024
* = Transfer between Halkali & Istanbul Sirkeci by frequent Marmaray suburban train as shown here.
Train times westbound 2023
How to read the timetable
You read downwards, each column is a separate train. Each train runs every day.
There's a summer & winter service, remember that Bulgaria & Romania put their clocks forward April-October, but Turkey remains on GMT+3 all year.
Sofia-Istanbul is a direct train every day all year with sleeping-cars & couchettes (no seats).
There's a direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul every day from 10 June to 9 October, attached to trains 461, 465 & 493/12501.
There's a direct couchette car from Istanbul to Bucharest every day from 8 June to 7 October, attached to trains 12502/492, 464 & 462.
Update 2023: It's reported that trackwork means this couchette car may only run until 24 or 25 September this year.
When there's no direct couchette car, you travel between Bucharest & Istanbul using seats cars between Bucharest & Dimitrovgrad on each of the trains shown above, then the sleepers or couchettes of the Sofia-Istanbul Express between Dimitrovgrad & Istanbul. Don't worry, it normally all works like clockwork.
How to check this timetable: You can find an accurate timetable in PDF format at the Bulgarian Railways website www.bdz.bg/en/a/sofia-istanbul-sofia which is what I use to update this page (please let me know if that link stops working). You can try checking times at the German Railways website int.bahn.de, but bear in mind that both Bahn.de and the Interrail/Eurail Railplanner app may have incomplete or even incorrect data for this route, for example there is no change of train at Kapikule or at Plovdiv. The train runs direct from Sofia to Istanbul Halkali via Plovdiv & Dimitrovgrad, exactly as I show above.
Route map
How much does it cost?
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Sofia to Istanbul costs €18.48 for a 2nd class ticket plus either €10 supplement for a couchette or €15 supplement for a bed in a 2-bed sleeper. A single-bed sleeper all to yourself costs €27.72 for a 1st class ticket + €35 sleeper supplement.
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Bucharest to Istanbul by direct couchette car costs €37.20 for a 2nd class ticket + €14 supplement for a couchette in 4-berth.
When the direct car isn't running: Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad costs around €32. Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul costs around €19 for the basic 2nd class ticket + either €10 for a couchette in a 4-berth compartment or €15 for a bed in a 2-bed sleeper. Sole occupancy of a sleeper costs around €28 for a 1st class ticket + €35 sleeper supplement.
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The fare is the same in either direction. The train is priced in euros, but you pay in the local currency. If you have a Eurail or Interrail pass you just need to pay the sleeper or couchette supplement. You need a 1st class pass for a single sleeper.
You can check fares from Sofia at www.bdz.bg/en/a/sofia-istanbul-sofia & fares from Istanbul at www.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr (use Google translate).
How to buy tickets
The Sofia-Istanbul sleepers & couchettes have become popular and in summer and even autumn the train often leaves fully-booked. I recommend booking in advance if you can, although there's no easy online booking for this route. Read on for advice.
Eastbound, Sofia to Istanbul
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The Sofia to Istanbul train cannot be booked online.
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Option 1, you can book the Sofia to Istanbul train by emailing Andy on tickets@discoverbyrail.com, the same rail expert that runs www.discoverbyrail.com. Tickets are normally delivered to your hotel in Sofia or a personal handover can sometimes be arranged, ask for details. He can also arrange Interrail or Eurail passholder reservations on these trains for journeys starting in Sofia.
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Option 2, you can buy in person at Sofia Central Station at the international ticket window in the main hall, see the Sofia station page for opening hours.
Eastbound, Bucharest to Istanbul - when the direct couchette car operates
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Option 1, you can buy tickets for the direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul tickets online at the Romanian Railways international website, bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro. Booking usually opens 60 days before departure (a lot less than 60 at the start of the season).
Click EN top right for English. Bucharest is listed as Bucuresti (Romania), for Istanbul you should enter/select Halkali (Turkey).
You need to collect hard-copy tickets from the ticket office at Bucharest Gara de Nord (or other main station in Romania), so only use this site for one-way or round trip journeys starting in Romania. It cannot book this route in the off-season when the direct couchette car doesn't run.
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Option 2, you can buy tickets for the direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul by emailing Andy on tickets@discoverbyrail.com, the same rail expert that runs www.discoverbyrail.com. Tickets are normally delivered to your hotel in Bucharest or a personal handover can sometimes be arranged, ask for details. He can also arrange Interrail or Eurail passholder reservations on this train for journeys starting in Bucharest.
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Option 3, buy in person at Bucharest Nord, from the international ticket window in the booking hall, see the Bucharest Nord station page.
Eastbound, Bucharest to Istanbul - at all other times
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Step 1, book the train from Bucharest to Ruse (in winter) or to Gorna Orjahovitsa (in the spring/autumn shoulder periods, see the timetable above for dates) using at the Romanian Railways international website, bileteinternationale.cfrcalatori.ro.
You need to collect hard-copy tickets from the ticket office at Bucharest Gara de Nord (or other main station in Romania), so only use this site for one-way or round trip journeys starting in Romania. Booking usually opens 60 days before departure.
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Step 2, now book the Bulgarian train from Ruse or Gorna to Dimitrovgrad at the Bulgarian Railways website www.bdz.bg. You need to register, tickets can be printed out. Booking usually opens 60 days before departure. If you don't manage to book this sector online, don't worry, you can buy a ticket at the station when you get to Ruse (or Gorna) or (if necessary) buy one on the train.
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Step 3, book a sleeper or couchette from Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul at Gorna Orjahovitsa station, you have enough time between trains to do so, and Gorna ticket office is (obviously) equipped with the Bulgarian Railways ticketing system so can do this. The train is busy, berths are often available on the day but not always. There is no easy way round this.
Tip: if there are no berths tonight, but berths are available tomorrow, book tomorrow and stop off at Veliko Tarnovo, it's well worth the stop!)
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Or you can buy in person at Bucharest Nord, from the international ticket window in the booking hall, see the Bucharest Nord station page. In the off-season they can only sell you a ticket as far as Ruse (or at times, Gorna Orjahovitsa), don't worry, buy that, then buy an onward ticket from Ruse or Gorna to Dimitrovgrad at the station when you get to Ruse or Gorna or (if necessary) buy one on the train. When you change trains at Gorna, book the Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul sleeper train at the ticket office there, you have time between trains.
Westbound, Istanbul to Sofia
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This train cannot be booked online.
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Option 1, you can book from Istanbul to Sofia by contacting Andy on tickets@discoverbyrail.com, the same rail expert that runs www.discoverbyrail.com. He can arrange sleeper or couchette tickets from Istanbul to Sofia for a fee. Tickets are normally delivered to your hotel in Istanbul, or a personal handover can sometimes be arranged, ask for details. He cannot arrange Interrail or Eurail passholder reservations for westbound journeys from Istanbul as the ticket office need to see your actual pass, a copy is insufficient.
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Option 2, contact Amber Travel, www.ambertravel.com, a reliable and experienced agency. Their website has a page for ordering Turkish train tickets through them, but it's reported they will also arrange international train tickets if you email them.
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Option 3, buy in person at Istanbul Sirkeci station, at ticket window 4 for international tickets, open 08:30-19:30 daily, credit cards accepted.
Westbound, Istanbul to Bucharest in summer when couchette car operates
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This train cannot be booked online.
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Option 1, you can book tickets for the direct couchette car from Istanbul to Bucharest by contacting Andy at tickets@discoverbyrail.com, the same rail expert that runs www.discoverbyrail.com. Tickets are normally delivered to your hotel in Istanbul, or a personal handover can sometimes be arranged, ask for details. He cannot arrange Interrail or Eurail passholder reservations for westbound journeys from Istanbul as the ticket office need to see your actual pass, a copy is insufficient.
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Option 2, contact Amber Travel, www.ambertravel.com, a reliable and experienced agency. Their website has a page for ordering Turkish train tickets through them, but it's reported they will also arrange international train tickets if you email them.
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Option 3, buy in person at Istanbul Sirkeci station, at ticket window 4 for international tickets, open 10:30-12:30 & 13:00-19:00 every day, credit cards accepted.
Westbound, Istanbul to Bucharest at all other times
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Step 1, book a sleeper or couchette from Istanbul to Dimitrovgrad.
You can contact Amber Travel, www.ambertravel.com, a reliable and experienced agency who can arrange this if you email them.
Or contact Andy on tickets@discoverbyrail.com, the same rail expert that runs www.discoverbyrail.com. Tickets are normally delivered to your hotel in Istanbul, or a personal handover can sometimes be arranged, ask for details. He cannot arrange Interrail or Eurail passholder reservations for westbound journeys from Istanbul as the ticket office need to see your actual pass, a copy is insufficient.
Or book in person at Istanbul Sirkeci station, at ticket window 4 for international tickets, open 08:30-19:30 daily, credit cards accepted.
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Step 2, book from Dimitrovgrad to Ruse at the Bulgarian Railways website www.bdz.bg. You need to register, tickets can be printed out. Booking usually opens 60 days before departure. If you don't manage to book this online, don't worry, you can buy a ticket on the train if necessary.
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Step 3, buy a ticket from Ruse to Bucharest at the station either in Gorna when changing trains or at Ruse. You cannot book this train online in this direction.
What's the train like?
Sofia-Istanbul sleeping-cars
The Sofia-Istanbul Express has two Turkish TVS2000 sleeping-cars built in 1998 (car numbers 483 & 484) and can have a 3rd such car at busy times. The car number is indicated on the steel destination plate attached to the side of the car towards one end.
Each sleeping-car is air-conditioned with 10 compartments. Each compartment can be sold as a double (2nd class fare or railpass plus the double sleeper supplement) or single (1st class fare or railpass plus the single sleeper supplement).
Each compartment has an upper & lower berth, sink, table & fridge. All necessary bedding is provided, along with soap and towel. Berths fold away to reveal two armchairs for day use. There are toilets at each end of the car. There's a 2-pin power outlet intended for electric razors, but no power outlet specifically for mobiles & laptops. These cars were built with a shower compartment at one end, but this is now used as a storeroom for bedding. You may be able to buy tea or coffee from the sleeper attendant.
Sofia-Istanbul & Bucharest-Istanbul couchette cars
In addition to the sleeping-cars, the Sofia-Istanbul Express has one Turkish TVS2000 air-conditioned couchette car built in 1996 or 2002 (car number 485). The direct summer-only couchette car between Bucharest & Istanbul is of the same type (car 479). The car number is indicated on the steel destination plate attached to the side of the car towards one end. The car has 10 compartments each with 4 berths, two upper & two lower. Sheets, pillow & blanket are provided, but you arrange these yourself. The beds fold away to form seats for day use as shown below. There are toilets at each end of the car. There's a 2-pin power outlet in each compartment above the door to the corridor, but you'll need a 2m cable to use it whilst sitting down with your phone or laptop. Photos courtesy of @Colcestrian and
What's the journey like?
Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad
Between June and October there's a direct couchette car from Bucharest to Istanbul. Outside this period, you travel from Bucharest to Dimitrovgrad on a series of connecting trains, but it all works like clockwork and you won't be the only person making these connections. The route & scenery are the same.
A few hours after leaving Bucharest's imposing Gara de Nord, the train reaches the Romanian border point, Giurgiu Nord. It then crosses the Danube into Bulgaria on a 2.5 km long steel bridge, the longest steel bridge in Europe, built in 1954 and now fitted with a road deck above the railway. It curves around off the bridge and arrives at Ruse, the Bulgarian border station on the other side.
When the Bucharest-Istanbul couchette car operates, it's attached to a direct Bucharest-Sofia train from Bucharest as far as Gorna Orjahovitsa - that Bucharest-Sofia train in fact runs for some weeks before and after this period, with no need to change at Ruse. However, in the winter timetable, you take an air-conditioned Romanian express railcar from Bucharest to Ruse and change into a Bulgarian locomotive-hauled train bound for Sofia, taking it as far as Gorna.
The train then spends a lazy afternoon meandering along pleasant river valleys across rural Bulgaria, have your camera handy. Pour yourself a beer or glass of wine (remember to bring your own food & drink), read away the hours & enjoy the trip. The highlight is the journey through the lush green Shipka Pass. The train from Gorna to Dimitrovgrad calls at Veliko Tarnovo, the ancient capital of Bulgaria - well worth a 24h stopover!
Sofia to Dimitrovgrad
The Sofia-Istanbul Express leaves Sofia's impressive communist-era central station and heads off across Bulgaria as night falls. Remember to bring your own food & drink, maybe even a bottle of wine, as there's no catering on board.
Dimitrovgrad to the Turkish border
At Dimitrovgrad, the Bucharest-Istanbul couchette car (when running) is attached to the Sofia-Istanbul Express. When it's not running, passengers from Bucharest & Veliko Tarnovo change onto the sleepers & couchettes of the Sofia-Istanbul Express.
Border controls at Svilengrad, Bulgaria
Late at night, the train reaches the Bulgarian border point at Svilengrad. You remain on the train, Bulgarian border guards come on board. They collect all passports and take them off the train to check them, they come back on board and return them before the train leaves. This happens in both directions, eastbound & westbound.
When Bulgarian controls and completed and passports returned, the train heads across the border into Turkey, reaching the Turkish border station of Kapikule well after midnight.
Border controls at Kapikule, Turkey
At Kapikule you need to leave the train for border formalities, in both directions:
Eastbound procedure: Step off the train onto the platform, taking all your bags with you. Step 1, go to the passport office further along the platform in the main building and get your passport stamped (see the photo below). Step 2, get your bags X-rayed in the small white shed-like building on the platform to the left of the main station building. After the train itself has been security checked, you can then re-board. Note that until 2022 you had to do the X-ray check first and passport check second, but in 2022 it was reportedly switched round. Feedback appreciated.
Tip: You may find the station cafe open for the train arrival, it accepts contactless payment cards so enjoy a late night coffee or snack while you wait to reboard!
Westbound procedure: Step off the train onto the platform, in this direction you can leave your bags on the train. Go to the passport office on the platform in the main building, get your passport stamped (see the photo below). You can then re-board the train.
Remember that time zones change here: From the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October, Bulgarian & Turkish time is the same, GMT+3. But Turkey has no Daylight Saving Time, so Turkish time is 1 hour ahead of Bulgarian time in winter.
The train arrives at Kapikule on the platform shown above, adjacent to the station building. X = X-ray baggage check shed. P = passport office in main building. Photo courtesy of Daniel Sterk.
Onwards to Halkali & Istanbul
In years gone by, the train used to make a dramatic entry into Istanbul through the Byzantine Walls of Theodosius, skirting the Sea of Marmara underneath the very walls of the Topkapi Palace into the beautiful Istanbul Sirkeci station, opened in 1888 in the heart of the city. However, the train now terminates at a suburban station called Halkali some 25km west of Sirkeci, expect an arrival an hour or two late, so allow for this and enjoy the ride. You then take one of the frequent Marmaray suburban trains into Istanbul Sirkeci as explained further down this page. Sirkeci station is walking distance from all the sights, or you can hop into a taxi to the famous Pera Palas Hotel. Map of Istanbul showing Sirkeci station.
Travel tips
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Is the overnight train safe?
Yes. In a sleeper or couchette it's comfortable and safe for families, solo females, anyone.
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Finding & boarding your train
As with virtually all European trains, there's no check-in. Just stroll into the station, find your train and get on, any time before it leaves. The sleeper or couchette attendant will normally greet you on the platform at the door to the sleeping-car and check your reservation. He'll come round and see you soon after departure to take your ticket or pass.
In Bucharest, look for the train to Sofia on the departure screens as the couchette car to Istanbul is attached to this train.
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Luggage
You take your luggage with you into your sleeper or couchette compartment and simply stick it on the luggage racks above the window, over the door to the corridor, or on the floor. Nobody weighs it, measures it, or worries about how much you take. More information about luggage on European trains.
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Power outlets & WiFi
In the sleeping-cars, there's a shaver socket in each compartment near the sink aimed at electric razors, but none specifically for laptops or mobiles. In each couchette compartment there's a 2-pin socket above the door to the corridor also aimed at electric razors, you'll need a 2m cable if you want to sit down with your laptop or mobile whilst using it. You may wish to bring a battery pack to keep your phone charged. There's no WiFi, but there is mobile data reception along the route except in rural areas.
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Bring your own food & drink
There's no catering car, so take your own food & drink, even a bottle of wine if you like. The sleeper attendant may be able to sell you tea or coffee.
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Scenery
The scenery through Bulgaria on the route to or from Bucharest is superb, snaking through Bulgarian river valleys and up (or down) the Shipka Pass.
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Be ready for border control
You need to get off the train briefly for border control at Kapikule on the Turkish border, read the border control information in the What's the journey like? section above to understand the procedure on both Bulgarian & Turkish side of the border. If you know the procedure and are first off the train at Kapikule when it stops, you can be back in bed before everyone else!
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Carry small denomination Turkish banknotes for the Marmaray local train into Istanbul
Buying a ticket for the Marmaray local trains from Halkali into Istanbul is an initiative test, as the section below explains. Try to get hold of some small-denomination 10 & 20 lira banknotes so you can buy a ticket using the machines.
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X-ray bag check at when leaving Halkali: There's now a brief baggage X-ray check when accessing the westbound train to Sofia/Bucharest at Halkali, similar to the ones the Turkish Railways do for their YHT high-speed trains.
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Using an Interrail or Eurail pass
You can use this train with a pass, of course, paying the relevant couchette or sleeper supplement. However, there's a minor irritation when using a pass from Sofia, Bucharest or Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul. You are of course using a direct overnight train so the Interrail night train rule applies and only one pass day (the date of departure) is used. Unfortunately, the Railplanner app incorrectly thinks it's a separate train from Kapikule to Istanbul, therefore if you add it to your pass directly from the Railplanner timetable it will trigger the use of a second pass day to cover what it thinks is a second train leaving after midnight. The solution is to add the Bucharest or Dimitrovgrad to Istanbul train to your pass manually.
How to transfer from Halkali to Sirkeci
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The international train from Sofia & Bucharest to Istanbul now terminates at Halkali, a suburban station 25km west of Istanbul's famous Sirkeci station, the original terminus in the city centre opened in 1888.
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The easiest way to reach Sirkeci is to take a frequent Marmaray suburban train, these run at least every 15 minutes, journey time from Halkali to Sirkeci around 35 minutes, fare around TL 35 (€1.90).
Use the self-service machines at the station to buy an Istanbulkart public transport smartcard for 50 TL, then top it up to get to Sirkeci.
As of December 2022 there is (finally!) a self-service ticket machine at Halkali which accepts contactless bank cards. Previously there were only machines which took Turkish lira in cash, in small-denomination 10, 20, 50 lira notes.
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The Marmaray trains arrive at the new underground platforms beneath the historic (but now trainless) ground level terminus. They continue beyond Sirkeci through the Bosphorus rail tunnel to Söğütlüçeşme station on the Asian side, where the high-speed YHT trains to Ankara & Konya start,
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If you prefer to go direct to your hotel by taxi, it will cost the equivalent of around €16 from Halkali to central Istanbul, but have Turkish lira with you to pay the driver as there is no ATM at Halkali.
How to transfer from Sirkeci to Halkali
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The international train to Sofia & Bucharest now leaves from Halkali, a suburban station 25km west of Istanbul Sirkeci station in the city centre.
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The easiest way to reach Halkali from central Istanbul is to take a frequent Marmaray suburban train from Sirkeci station, these run at least every 15 minutes, journey time from Sirkeci to Halkali around 35 minutes, fare around TL 35 (€1.90).
The Marmaray trains leave from the underground platforms at Sirkeci, beneath the now-trainless ground level terminus.
To be on the safe side, I'd leave Sirkeci at least 1h15 before the sleeper is due to leave Halkali. Check the departure time from Halkali shown on your ticket carefully, as it varies.
At Halkali there's now a brief baggage X-ray check when accessing the platform for the train to Sofia & Bucharest.
Tip: Buy food and drink before you leave as there are few or no facilities n or around Halkali station, just a waiting room.
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If you prefer to go from your hotel to Halkali by taxi, it will cost the equivalent of around €16.
