Gibraltar's famous apes, although strictly-speaking they are tailless monkeys. The stuffed black ape was my 6 year old son's new toy - a young ape mugged him for it 5 minutes after we bought it. Here, that young ape looks after the stuffed toy while his mother looks after his younger sibling. |
London this morning, Gibraltar tomorrow night, by train!
Gibraltar, named after the Arabic name for the Rock, Jebel Tarik, is just across the bay from the Spanish port of Algeciras, the railhead for anyone travelling to Gibraltar. It's easy to reach Gibraltar by train from London or Paris or Madrid, a scenic ride too, especially in Andalucía, see the video. This page explains train times, fares & how to buy tickets.
Train times, fares, tickets & information
Useful country information: currency, dial code...
Video guide: Gibraltar to Madrid by train
Starting from other UK towns & cities
General information on train travel in Europe
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Useful country information
London to Gibraltar
Gibraltar is just across the bay from the Spanish port of Algeciras, which is the railhead for anyone travelling to Gibraltar. It's easy to reach Gibraltar by train from London or Paris, this page will tell you train times, fares and how to buy tickets:
London ► Gibraltar
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Day 1, travel from London to Paris by Eurostar
Take any departure you like. The last Eurostar leaves London St Pancras at 20.01 arriving Paris Gare du Nord 23:18 or book an earlier one for a pleasant evening in Paris.
Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. Standard Premier & Business Premier fares include a meal with wine, served at your seat.
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Stay overnight in Paris
At the Gare du Nord I recommend the excellent 25 Hours Terminus Nord directly across the road, with great feedback from Seat61 users. At the Gare de Lyon, the Mercure Paris Gare De Lyon is part of the Gare de Lyon station complex with great reviews for staff, cleanliness & comfort. Other suggested hotels near the Gare du Nord or Gare de Lyon.
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Day 2, travel from Paris to Barcelona by TGV Duplex
Leave Paris Gare de Lyon at 09:42 every day, arriving Barcelona Sants 16:31.
The TGV Duplex is a 320 km/h (199 mph) double-deck high-speed train with 1st & 2nd class, café-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. Book an upper deck seat for the best views, any seat number >60 is upper deck.
The train speeds along the Rhône valley past pretty French villages & picturesque churches. Look out for Béziers cathedral on the right, colonies of flamingos on the étangs (lakes) in southern France, the Fort de Salses on the right approaching Perpignan and great views of Mt Canigou as the train rounds the southern end of the Pyrenees.
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Day 2, travel from Barcelona to Madrid by AVE
Leave Barcelona Sants at 18:25, arriving Madrid Atocha 20:55.
The high-speed AVE S103 has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi.
If you pay the Premium fare you can use the Sala Club 1st class lounge for up to 2h before your train leaves and you get a tray meal with wine served at your seat on the AVE.
Remember that at Spanish stations there's a brief X-ray baggage check at the entrance to the platforms for long-distance & high-speed trains.
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Stay overnight in Madrid
The classic Hotel Mediodia is across the road from Atocha with good reviews, or try the NH Hotel Madrid Atocha or Only YOU Hotel Atocha, also across the road from the station. For somewhere cheaper, try the Pensión Mollo or Hostal Residencia Fernandez.
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Day 3, travel from Madrid to La Linea or Algeciras by Intercity train
Leave Madrid Atocha at 07:38 by Intercity train, arriving San Roque-La Linea 13:35 & Algeciras 13:54.
The Intercity train is an articulated air-conditioned Talgo train with cafe-bar. This is a lovely scenic ride - the train dashes along the high-speed line through the mountains to Cordoba, then it slows right down onto the scenic single-track to Algeciras on the Straits of Gibraltar. You'll see the scenery in this video guide. At Antequera-Santa Ana the train is propelled through a gauge-changing shed and its axles adjust from standard gauge (4'8½, used for Spanish high-speed lines) to Iberian gauge, 5'6".
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Day 3, take a bus or taxi from Algeciras to la Linea & walk into Gibraltar
A taxi from Algeciras railway station to La Linea costs €24.75 (taxis don't use the meter on this run, and aren't normally allowed to cross the border into Gibraltar).
To go by bus, cross the roundabout outside Algeciras railway station and enter the San Bernado bus station, then take bus M-120 to La Linea for around €2.50. Bus M-120 runs every 30 minutes Mon-Fri at xx.00 and xx.30 past each hour or every 45 minutes at weekends, journey time about 45 minutes to La Linea, for bus information see siu.ctmcg.es.
La Linea is the Spanish town outside the border crossing to Gibraltar, and La Linea's bus stop and taxi rank are right outside the entrance to Gibraltar. Walk through the Spanish then UK passport checkpoints into Gibraltar (5-10 minutes). Then either (a) keep walking straight ahead of you into Gibraltar town, it's takes about 15 minutes to the centre or (b) take a frequent local Gibraltar bus from the border into town or (c) look for the taxi stop on the right just after the passport check and wait for a taxi to your hotel for a few pounds - Gibraltar taxis will accept euros. The walk from the border to Gibraltar's Main Street takes you across Gibraltar airport's runway, though they stop cars and pedestrians when an aircraft is landing or taking off! Map of Algeciras - La Linea - Gibraltar area.
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Or get off the train at San Roque-La Linea
The closest station to Gibraltar is actually San Roque-La Linea, and all trains to Algeciras call here around 20 minutes before arriving at Algeciras. So if you prefer, you could get off here and take a taxi to La Linea, or walk the 1.6 km (1 mile) to the Bar La Redonda bus stop on the main road on the M-120 bus route from Algeciras to La Linea. Buses run to La Linea every 30 minutes weekdays, every 45 minutes weekends. Taxis are usually available outside San Roque station, San Roque to the La Linea/Gibraltar border is about 16 km (10 miles) and it takes just over 30 minutes depending on traffic.
Gibraltar ► London
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Day 1, transfer from Gibraltar to La Linea to Algeciras
Walk (15 minutes), take a taxi (£4-£6) or take one of the frequent buses (£1) from Gibraltar town to the border with Spain and walk through British and then Spanish passport control into La Linea. In La Linea, you'll find a taxi rank and bus stop right outside the border.
Now either take a taxi from La Linea to Algeciras railway station for a fixed price of €24.75 (taxis don't use the meter on this run) or take an M-120 bus from La Linea to Algeciras bus station.
On weekdays, buses leave La Linea every 30 minutes at xx.15 and xx.45 past each hour, at weekends they run every 45 minutes. La Linea to Algeciras takes about 45 minutes. The fare is €2.50. In Algeciras, the buses stop just 50 metres away from the railway station. For bus information see siu.ctmcg.es.
Alternatively, your hotel may be able to arrange a private transfer direct from Gibraltar town to Algeciras station for around £50 - however, neither Gibraltar taxis nor Spanish taxis will normally cross the border.
Alternatively, San Roque-La Linea is actually the closest station to Gibraltar. If you prefer to pick up the train there, you can take a taxi the 16 km (10 miles) from La Linea to San Roque-La Linea station.
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Day 1, travel from Algeciras to Madrid by Intercity train
Leave Algeciras at 14:58 or San Roque-La Line 15:11 & arriving Madrid Atocha 21:10.
The Intercity train is an articulated air-conditioned Talgo train with cafe-bar. It takes the classic curvaceous line from Algeciras to Antequera-Santa Ana, where it is propelled through a gauge-changing shed. This adjusts axles adjust from Iberian gauge, (5'6") to standard gauge (4'8½), used for Spanish high-speed lines. It then joins the high-speed line for a scenic dash through the mountains to Madrid. You'll see the wonderful scenery shown in this Gibraltar to Madrid video guide.
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Stay overnight in Madrid
The classic Hotel Mediodia is across the road from Atocha with good reviews, or try the NH Hotel Madrid Atocha or Only YOU Hotel Atocha, also across the road from the station.
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Day 2, travel from Madrid to Barcelona by train
A lo-cost high-speed Avlo train leaves Madrid Atocha at 06:15 and arrives Barcelona Sants at 08:45.
This is a lo-cost train, 2nd class only, no catering, check their luggage limits and fees. More about Avlo.
If you'd like a later departure, add an overnight stop in Barcelona or Paris, see options from Madrid to London on the UK-Spain page.
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Day 2, travel from Barcelona to Paris by TGV Duplex
Leave Barcelona Sants at 09:28, arriving Paris Gare de Lyon 16:12.
The TGV has a cafe-bar, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. Book an upper deck seat for the best views as the train rolls past colonies of flamingos on the étangs in southern France, then speeds along the scenic Rhone Valley towards Paris.
Cross Paris by metro or taxi, just 2 stops on RER line D. Why not have an early dinner in Paris and catch a later Eurostar? The Brasserie Terminus Nord (www.terminusnord.com) is good and typically French, and it's directly opposite the Gare du Nord.
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Day 2, travel from Paris to London by Eurostar
Leave Paris Gare du Nord at 18:12 arriving London St Pancras 19:39.
Eurostar has two cafe-bars, power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. Standard Premier & Business Premier fares include a meal with wine, served at your seat.
How much does it cost?
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London to Paris by Eurostar starts at £52 one-way or £78 return in standard class, £97 one-way, £168 return standard premier (1st class).
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Paris to Barcelona by TGV starts at €39 each way in 2nd class, €59 in 1st class.
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Barcelona to Madrid by AVE starts at €35 each way in standard class, €58 in comfort class (1st class).
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Madrid to Algeciras by Intercity train starts at €25 in standard class or €38 in comfort class (1st class).
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Fares for each of these trains vary like air fares, book ahead for the cheapest fares.
How to buy tickets
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Buy tickets for each train at www.raileurope.com or www.thetrainline.com.
Both sites connect to the British, French & Spanish rail ticketing systems so you can buy all your tickets together in one place, easily in plain English, in €, £ or $, overseas credit cards no problem. There's a small booking fee. You can book a one-way or round trip in either direction. About Raileurope. About Thetrainline.
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When do bookings open?
Bookings for Eurostar open up to 11 months ahead, the Paris-Barcelona TGVs open up to 4 months ahead, longer over the summer.
Spanish AVE trains between 1 & 9 months ahead, it varies as Renfe releases dates in blocks pretty much when it feels like it. By all means book London-Barcelona as soon as bookings open and wait to book the Madrid-Barcelona-Algeciras part of the journey later. Madrid-Algeciras will be the last to open for booking.
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Step 1, book the Eurostar from London to Paris & back.
Always book London-Paris as a round trip as Eurostar return fares are less than two one-ways. Beyond Paris, trains are priced one-way so a round trip is simply two one-ways and I find it easier to book one train at a time. Add this to your basket.
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Step 2, book the TGV from Paris to Barcelona. Add to your basket.
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Step 3, book the AVE from Barcelona to Madrid. Add to your basket.
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Step 4, book the Intercity from Madrid to Algeciras. Add to your basket.
Then check out, paying for all tickets as one transaction.
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Step 3, buy the bus ticket from Algeciras to La Linea on the bus.
How to buy tickets by phone
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It's better to buy online, as you avoid phone booking fees and can see for yourself which departures are cheapest for each stage of the journey. Online booking is possible 24/7, but most telephone booking agencies only work office hours on weekdays.
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However, if you'd rather call someone, here is a list if UK ticketing agencies with phone numbers & opening hours. For a journey between the UK & Spain I'd call Ffestiniog Travel, International Rail or Trainseurope. Book early for the cheapest prices, ideally 2-3 months ahead, as prices increase close to departure, just like air fares. Eurostar, TGV, AVE & other Renfe tickets will usually be emailed to you as e-tickets, so there's no postage cost or delay.
What's the journey like?
1. London to Paris by Eurostar
Eurostar trains link London & Paris in 2h20, travelling at up to 300 km/h (186 mph). There are two bar cars, power sockets at all seats and free WiFi. Standard Premier and Business Premier fares include a light meal with wine (or breakfast, on departures before 11:00). There's a 30-minute minimum check-in as all border formalities are carried out before you board the train. More about Eurostar & check-in procedure. St Pancras station guide. Paris Gare du Nord station guide. How to change trains & stations in Paris by metro or taxi.
2. Paris to Barcelona by TGV Duplex See TGV Duplex video guide
The train from Paris to Barcelona is an impressive 320 km/h (199 mph) double-deck high-speed train. You board the train through a wide sliding external door into a small hall at one end of the lower deck, where an internal door opens into a lower deck seating area. A wide, short & easy flight of stairs leads from the entrance door to a landing at one end of the upper deck. You walk along the train from car to car at the upper level, and the café-bar is also at the upper level. There are toilets both upstairs & downstairs. If you have problems with stairs or very heavy luggage, the lower deck might be best. But for the best views, definitely choose an upper deck seat. For couples in 1st class, an upper deck club duo table-for-two is the nicest option. More pictures & an account of what to see on the Paris to Barcelona journey.
Crossing the Pyrenees. One of the highest peaks in the mighty Pyrenees, the 2,784m (9,137 feet) Mt Canigou dominates the skyline on the right of the train all the way from Perpignan to Girona. More pictures & an account of what to see on the Paris to Barcelona journey.
3. Barcelona to Madrid by AVE
These superb AVE high speed trains are amongst the classiest in Europe, with Standard (2nd) class & Comfort (1st) class, cafe-bar serving beer, wine, tea, coffee, snacks and some hot dishes. The train has power sockets at all seats & free WiFi. If you pay the Premium fare you get access to the Sala Club lounge in Barcelona, and a meal with wine served at your seat. More about Renfe's fares & classes.
A type S103 AVE at Madrid Atocha. See virtual tour
Scenery from the high-speed AVE between Barcelona & Madrid. Courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com.
Madrid Atocha station: One of my favourite stations, the old trainshed has been preserved and turned into a tropical garden, see Madrid Atocha station guide.
4. Madrid to Algeciras by Intercity train
The Intercity train has standard & comfort class and a cafe-bar. It travels over the standard-gauge high-speed line from Madrid to Antequera at up to 200 km/h (125 mph), then passes slowly through a gauge-changing shed which adjusts the wheels to Iberian broad gauge (5' 6"). The train continues on the classic line through great Andalusian scenery to Ronda and Algeciras.
Andalusian scenery seen from the train to Algeciras. The rail line to Algeciras is one of my favourite routes, especially the last part from Antequera southwards, a scenic treat. Watch the video.
5. Algeciras to La Linea by bus or taxi, gateway to Gibraltar
In Algeciras, the bus station is just across the road (well, around the roundabout) from the railway station. This is an M-120 bus for La Linea boarding at the bus station. The bus links Algeciras with La Linea, 250m from the Gibraltar frontier, every 30 minutes on weekdays at xx.00 & xx.30 past each hour, every 45 minutes at weekends, fare €2.45, journey time 45 minutes. The bus station is directly across the road (well, around the roundabout) from Algeciras railway station, behind the Octavio Hotel.
Alternatively, a taxi from Algeciras station to Gibraltar town charges a fixed price (non-meter) of €24.75. There are normally plenty of taxis available when the train from Madrid arrives.
Gibraltar - Tangier ferries
A fast ferry occasionally operates from Gibraltar to Tangier, run by www.frs.es. There were Friday & Sunday evening crossings a few years ago, there may be none now. At other times, simply take the bus from La Linea (Gibraltar's frontier with Spain) round the bay to Algeciras (every 30 minutes, journey time 30 minutes) for the ferry from there to Tangier. See www.trasmediterranea.es, www.comarit.com or www.balearia.com to check sailing times & fares.
See the video: Gibraltar to Madrid
This video shows the fabulous scenery between Gibraltar and Madrid. Although the video shows a train from Algeciras to Madrid, the trains from Algeciras to Barcelona take exactly the same route as far as the outskirts of Madrid.
In Gibraltar
European Rail Timetable & map
The European Rail Timetable (formerly the Thomas Cook European Timetable) has train & ferry times for every country in Europe plus currency & climate information. It is essential for regular European train travellers and an inspiration for armchair travellers. Published since 1873, it had just celebrated 140 years of publication when Thomas Cook decided to pull the plug on their entire publishing department, but the dedicated ex-Thomas Cook team set up a private venture and resumed publication of the famous European Rail Timetable in March 2014. You can buy it online at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses) or www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide). More information on what the European Rail Timetable contains.
Rail Map Europe is the map I recommend, covering all of Europe from Portugal in the west to Moscow & Istanbul in the east, Finland in the north to Sicily & Athens in the south. Scenic routes & high-speed lines are highlighted. See an extract from the map. Buy online at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu (shipping worldwide) or at www.amazon.co.uk (UK addresses).
Hotels in Gibraltar
Rock Hotel, Gibraltar
Opened in 1932, Gibraltar's Rock Hotel nestles under the Rock at the far end of town, with a relaxing pool area across the road, complete with poolside bar. Many famous people have stayed here, from Winston Churchill to Sean Connery to Errol Flynn. Don't expect cutting edge design - if anything the rooms are a little tired and in need of refurbishment - but it's one of the classic hotels in Gib, a stone's throw from the lower cable car station and a 10 minute walk from the heart of Main Street. In the summer, dinner is served al fresco by the pool. The breakfast buffet is good, but ask for fried egg rather than taste their powdered scrambled egg!
Travel insurance & other tips
Always take out travel insurance
You should take out travel insurance with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover from a reliable insurer. It should cover trip cancellation and loss of cash & belongings up to a reasonable limit. These days, check you're covered for covid-19-related issues, and use an insurer whose cover isn't invalidated by well-meant but excessive Foreign Office travel advice against non-essential travel. An annual policy is usually cheapest even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself. Don't expect travel insurance to bail you out of every missed connection, see the advice on missed connections here. Here are some suggested insurers, I get a little commission if you buy through these links, feedback always welcome.
www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection and gets 4.7 out of 5 on Trustpilot.
www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.
If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.
Get an eSIM with mobile data package
Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a European mobile data package and stay connected. Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list. There's no need to buy a physical SIM card! Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.
Get a Curve card for foreign travel
Most banks give you a poor exchange rate then add a foreign transaction fee on top. A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month as I write this. The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards. And you can get a Curve card for free.
How it works: 1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android. 2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses. 3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card. 4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app. You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.
I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader. The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than getting a card out). I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great. See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.
Get a VPN for safe browsing. Why you need a VPN
When travelling you may use free public WiFi which is often insecure. A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi. It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply. See VPNs & why you need one explained. ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using this link you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription. I also get some commission to help support this site.
Carry an Anker powerbank
Tickets, reservations, hotel bookings and Interrail or Eurail passes are often now held on your mobile phone. You daren't let it run out of power, and you can't always rely on the phone's internal battery or on being near a power outlet. I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over. Buy from Amazon.co.uk or buy from Amazon.com.
Touring cities? Use hill walking shoes!
One of the best things I've done is swap my normal shoes for hill-walking shoes, in my case from Scarpa. They're intended for hiking across the Pennines not wandering around Florence, but the support and cushioning for hiking works equally well when you're on your feet all day exploring foreign cities. My feet used to give out first and limit my day, now the rest of me gives up before they do!