The view from the diner as the California Zephyr rolls through Colorado canyons.  You'd be crazy to fly! See the journey in pictures

USA coast to coast from $236

You'll see nothing of America at 35,000 feet, come down to Earth and see world class scenery from an Amtrak train across the United States.  You can travel cross-country from as little as $236 (£188 or €220) if you book well in advance, one of the world's great travel bargains.  The USA has an excellent rail network for visitors, it may only be a skeleton network by European standards but it'll take you to almost all the towns & cities a visitor wants to see, in comfort at affordable prices.  It'll take you to many of the U.S. national parks, too.  Long-distance trains in the USA are operated by the National Railroad Passenger Corporation, better known as Amtrak, www.amtrak.com.  This page explains what you need to know to plan and book a memorable cross-country trip by train.

  Train service in the USA, at a glance

  How to buy Amtrak tickets

  Cross-country by train via Chicago

  Cross-country by train via New Orleans

  New York to Florida

  Boston - New York - Washington DC

  New York to Montreal & Toronto

  Other Amtrak routes

  What are Amtrak trains like?

  Amtrak's USA Railpass

  Alaska Railroad

  Holidays, vacations & tours by train

  Hotels & accommodation in the USA

  Flights to the USA

  Europe to the USA by Queen Mary 2

Train service in the USA, at a glance  See detailed map

This route map shows where Amtrak trains run.  Each of the very long-distance transcontinental routes shown in blue has one daily train, except for New York to Florida with 2 trains a day and the Sunset Limited (New Orleans-San Antonio-Los Angeles) which runs 3 times a week.  Important short distance routes (for example, Washington-New York-Boston or Los Angeles-San Diego) have regular intercity services and are shown in red.  It's easy to check Amtrak train times at www.amtrak.com, just use their online booking system.  Click here for the official large-scale Amtrak route map.

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Useful country information

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Cross-country by train

Across the United States by train... Coast to coast, 3,397 miles from New York to San Francisco in 3 days by train, a journey of a lifetime for as little as $236.  This video gives a taste of what you miss when you fly, it shows the scenery in Colorado's canyons from Amtrak's 'California Zephyr', perhaps the most scenic of their routes across the States.  A chance to chill out & experience America at ground level, yet it costs no more than a flight.  Coast to coast by train, in pictures.  6-minute video of a journey on the California Zephyr.

The 3,000 mile journey across the United States by train is one of the world's greatest travel experiences.  It's easy, comfortable, safe, and an affordable alternative to flying.  Free route guides are available on board each train, telling you what to look out for from the window, and the scenery on many routes is world class. 

In a nutshell

• The 3,000 mile coast-to-coast train ride takes 3 nights, without stopovers.

• Choose from 4 or 5 different cross-country routes, each with their own character.  I explain the most scenic routes below with train times & description.  You can stop off on the way, but remember that a separate ticket/reservation is needed for each stage.

• It takes one night from New York, Boston or Washington DC to Chicago where you change trains, then two nights from Chicago to Los Angeles, San Francisco or Seattle on a superb double-deck Superliner train.  You can also travel coast to coast via New Orleans, this takes an extra night as you need to spend a night in New Orleans.  Most of the trains run daily all year round, although the New Orleans-LA train only operates three times a week.

• Check out the cross-country train packages at www.amtrakvacations.com, they can sort packages with tickets, private sleeping accommodations on the train, stopovers & hotels included.

• If you book regular tickets online at www.amtrak.com, cross-country fares from New York to Los Angeles, San Francisco or Seattle start at just $236 in a spacious reclining seat, surely one of the world's greatest travel bargains.  A private sleeper for 1 or 2 people can be added to your booking, the extra cost is often quite hefty but the sleeper room charge includes all meals as well as tea, coffee & fruit juice throughout the trip. Amtrak's spacious trains also have cafe & lounge cars, open to both seat and sleeper passengers.  See descriptions of the trains here.

• On-time performance.  Bear in mind that these trains run for over 2,000 miles, although they often arrive on time or perhaps half an hour late, they can sometimes arrive an hour or two late or more, so don't book any tight connections.  You can see how your chosen trains have performed the last few weeks using www.amtrak.com/historical-on-time-performance and you can also see real-time train positions & performance at www.asm.transitdocs.com.

• Click here to see a coast-to-coast train ride in pictures

Which is the best cross-country train route?

• I've crossed the United States multiple times by train, using every major cross-country train except the Texas Eagle.  Each transcontinental route has its own distinctive character even if the trains themselves are the same, but one stands out as the most spectacular for both scenery & historical significance:  I recommend the California Zephyr between Chicago and San Francisco, which you can take in connection with the Lake Shore Limited between New York or Boston and Chicago, or the Capitol Limited between Washington DC and Chicago.

• The California Zephyr is one of world's greatest train journeys, in around 48 hours you will leave Chicago, roll over the vast farmlands of Nebraska, cross the Mississippi, scale the Rockies out of Denver over breakfast in the diner, snake through lovely Colorado canyons, and pass through the Sierra Nevada mountains to reach Sacramento and the San Francisco Bay area.  The route covers much of the very first historic trans-continental railroad route, and there's a commentary for the most significant section.  To give you an idea of what a cross-country train ride is like on this route, see the California Zephyr page. 

• However, all Amtrak's cross-country train routes are scenic, and the Southwest Chief is another favourite.  It'll take you from Chicago to Los Angeles over the Santa Fe railroad (which used to operate the famous Super Chief), alongside the equally famous Route 66, through Navajo Indian country.  This is another amazing trip, with a chance to stop off at the Grand Canyon.

Cross-country westbound 2024

* The California Zephyr starts in Emeryville.  An Amtrak Thruway bus links the Transbay Terminal in downtown San Francisco with Emeryville across the Bay Bridge.  Tickets can be booked through from (and luggage checked in at) the Amtrak station at San Francisco Transbay Terminal as if it was a rail station.

*** The Los Angles to Chicago portion only runs 3 times a week, leaving LA on Wednesdays, Fridays & Sundays.  Daily San Antonio-Chicago.

Use these times as a guide, always check current times & fares at www.amtrak.com as they change from time to time.

What are the trains like?

• Click here to see what the trains are actually like inside & out, and to understand the sleeping-car, lounge & dining facilities.

How much does it cost?

3,000 miles coast-to-coast overland for as little at $236 has to be one of the world's greatest travel bargains!  Railpass options.

Amtrak fares are dynamic, so you'll see various prices on various dates, book ahead for the cheapest prices - these are the cheapest examples I have found.

Round trip fares are twice the one-way fare.  Children 2-12 (inclusive) travel at reduced fare, children under 2 travel free (limit one child under 2 per adult).

There's a 10% discount for seniors over 65 on some fares.  The discount applies to the base fare but not to saver fares, flexible fares, roomette/bedroom charges.

If you choose to travel in a sleeper, the premium fare column on the Amtrak website will show the total cost for all passengers travelling in a roomette or bedroom.  This is calculated as a basic fare for each passenger plus one charge covering the whole roomette or bedroom.  The roomette or bedroom cost is the same whether it's occupied by one person or two.  So a sleeper is a lot better value if there are two of you!  The two people price in the table above is the total you pay for two people sharing a roomette or bedroom.

Tip:  You can save 10% on the basic travel fare (but not on accommodation supplements) by becoming a member of the National Association of Railroad Passengers, which at the time of writing costs $35 for an individual or $50 for a family.  It can pay for itself on one coast to coast trip.  See www.narprail.org for full details and online sign-up.

Can I stop off on the way?

• Yes of course, but if you want to stop off you'll need to buy separate tickets for each leg.  To book a cross-country trip with stopovers at any cities you want, simply look for the 'Multi-City' link at top right of the booking form on www.amtrak.com.  This allows you to book a trip with up to 4 segments, and of course you can book additional segments as separate bookings.  However, if you buy a through ticket at the cheapest price between an East Coast city such as New York and a West Coast city such as Los Angeles, then no, you cannot stop off, you must travel direct on your assigned trains.  Although the several hours between trains in Chicago is often time enough to climb the Sears Tower (now owned by the Willis corporation, see theskydeck.com) and get great views over the city, it's only 5 minutes walk from Chicago Union Station!  As you can see from the fares table above, separate tickets New York to Chicago and Chicago-Los Angeles (so you can stop off in Chicago) work out about $35 more expensive than a New York to Los Angeles through ticket.

• Want to stop off at the Grand Canyon?  See the Grand Canyon section

	Amtrak's Quik-Trak self-service ticket machines:  You simply pass the barcode on your booking printout under the machine's scanner, confirm the journey and print your tickets.  However, Amtrak has now introduced e-tickets, and with these you can go straight to the train.

Luggage

• All the trains shown here offer checked baggage.  All passengers (both coach & sleeper) are entitled to check in up to 2 large items of luggage free of charge, plus an additional 2 large items for $20 each.  Maximum 50lbs (23Kg) per item, maximum total linear dimension (length + height + width) = 75".  Oversize bags (up to a total linear dimension of 100") $20 per bag.  A name and address label must be attached to each item.  Hand luggage is limited to two items per passenger, maximum 50lbs (23Kg) per item, dimensions 28" x 22" x 14".  See www.amtrak.com/baggage-policy.

• You can check bags through to your final destination, so for example if you have a New York to San Francisco ticket you can check your bags in at New York all the way to San Francisco Transbay Terminal.  They will be transferred for you from train to train in Chicago and from train to bus at Emeryville, leaving you free of it until you arrive.

How to buy tickets

• Option 1, buy at www.amtrak.com

  Anyone from any country can buy tickets at Amtrak's own website www.amtrak.com, which sells all types of accommodation, seat & sleeper.

  Booking opens 11 months in advance.  An e-ticket will be emailed to you, you can print it out or show it on your phone.

  Or call Amtrak 24 hours a day on 1-800-USA RAIL.  From outside of the USA, Amtrak's international desk is + 1-215-856-7952.  Open Mon-Fri 08:30-16:00 Eastern Time.

• Option 2, buy at Omio.com

  Omio.com sells tickets for Amtrak seated accommodation quickly & simply, in multiple languages & currencies.  However, it can't sell sleeper accommodation.  You print out your ticket or can show it on your phone.

Let Amtrak Vacations arrange your trip

• Amtrak Vacations is Amtrak's official partner for vacations, tours & packages.

  Amtrak Vacations can put a package together from anywhere to anywhere to your specification, with private sleeping accommodations on the train, stopovers at cities or national parks, hotels & transfers.

  They'll also do ticket-only bookings for cross-country Amtrak journeys, and you may get more help and advice if you book through them as they specialise in Amtrak's long-haul routes. 

  Click here for Amtrak Vacations' cross-country packages

• Lines are open 09:00-22:00 Monday-Friday & 09:00-17:30 Saturday, Eastern Time (5 hours behind the UK).

  In the U.S. call 866-816-5892 toll-free or visit www.amtrakvacations.com.

  From Canada call 866-816-5892 toll-free or visit www.amtrakvacations.com.

  From the UK call 020 3327 3500 or visit www.amtrakvacations.co.uk.

  From Australia 0011-1-978-816-7506, or visit www.amtrakvacations.com.

Let Railbookers arrange your trip

• Railbookers are train travel specialists with offices in the UK, Australia & United States.  They can arrange coast to coast tours by train to your own specification, with trains, stopovers, hotels, transfers and (if necessary) flights all sorted.

    UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk, see their train tours & holidays in the USA.

    From mainland Europe call +44 207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk.

    Australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, www.railbookers.com.au, see their U.S. tours & holidays.

    New Zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see their U.S. tours & vacations.

Using a USA railpass

• A USA Railpass is available covering the whole Amtrak network or just parts of it, see advice on USA Railpasses here.

See it in pictures: Cross-country by train

• See an illustrated journey from New York to San Francisco on Amtrak's Lake Shore Limited and California Zephyr.

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Cross-country via New Orleans

This is the Southern cross-country route, a whole different flavour from the routes via Chicago.  Coast to coast via New Orleans takes 4 nights, making it slower than the more usual transcontinental route via Chicago, as you need to spend a night in New Orleans - but a stopover down south is hardly a burden!  For a taste of the deep south, this is the way to go.

How much does it cost?

Round trip fares are twice the one-way fare.  Children 2-12 (inclusive) travel at reduced fare, children under 2 travel free (limit one child under 2 per adult).

Amtrak fares vary dynamically, so you'll see various fares on various dates, book ahead for the cheapest prices - these are just typical examples, assuming you book ahead.

There's a 10% discount for seniors over 65 on some fares.  The discount applies to the base fare but not to saver fares, flexible fares, roomette/bedroom charges.

If you choose to travel in a sleeper, the premium fare column on the Amtrak website will show the total cost for all passengers travelling in a roomette or bedroom.  This is calculated as a basic fare for each passenger plus one charge covering the whole roomette or bedroom.  The roomette or bedroom cost is the same whether it's occupied by one person or two.  So a sleeper is a lot better value if there are two of you!  The two people price in the table above is the total you pay for two people sharing a roomette or bedroom.

Tip:  You can save 10% on the basic travel fare (but not on accommodation supplements) by becoming a member of the National Association of Railroad Passengers, which at the time of writing costs $35 for an individual or $50 for a family.  It can pay for itself on one coast to coast trip.  See www.narprail.org for full details and online sign-up.

Luggage arrangements.  Railpass options.   Can I stop off?

How to buy tickets

• Option 1, buy at www.amtrak.com

  Anyone from any country can buy tickets at Amtrak's own website www.amtrak.com, which sells all types of accommodation, seat & sleeper.

  Booking opens 11 months in advance.  An e-ticket will be emailed to you, you can print it out or show it on your phone.

  Or call Amtrak 24 hours a day on 1-800-USA RAIL.  From outside of the USA, Amtrak's international desk is + 1-215-856-7952.  Open Mon-Fri 08:30-16:00 Eastern Time.

• Option 2, buy at Omio.com

  Omio.com sells tickets for Amtrak seated accommodation quickly & simply, in multiple languages & currencies.  However, it can't sell sleeper accommodation.  You print out your ticket or can show it on your phone.

Using a USA railpass

• A USA Railpass is available covering the whole Amtrak network or just parts of it, see advice on USA Railpasses here.

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New York to Florida

Introducing Amtrak's Silver Service from New York & Washington DC to Orlando, Tampa & Miami.

Facilities on board

Silver Meteor:  Amfleet reclining seats,  Viewliner sleeping-car, Amfleet cafe car.

Silver Star:  Amfleet reclining seats,  Viewliner sleeping-car, Amfleet cafe car.

Luggage arrangements.

How much does it cost?

Round trip fares are twice the one-way fare.  Children 2-12 (inclusive) travel at reduced fare, children under 2 travel free (limit one child under 2 per adult).

If you choose to travel in a sleeper, the premium fare column on the Amtrak website will show the total cost for all passengers travelling in a roomette or bedroom.  This is calculated as a basic fare for each passenger plus one charge covering the whole roomette or bedroom.  The roomette or bedroom cost is the same whether it's occupied by one person or two.  So a sleeper is a lot better value if there are two of you!  The two people price in the table above is the total you pay for two people sharing a roomette or bedroom.

How to buy tickets

• Option 1, buy at www.amtrak.com

  Anyone from any country can buy tickets at Amtrak's own website www.amtrak.com.  This sells all types of accommodation, seat & sleeper.

  Booking opens 11 months in advance.  An e-ticket will be emailed to you, you can print it out or show it on your phone.

  Or call Amtrak 24 hours a day on 1-800-USA RAIL.  From outside of the USA, Amtrak's international desk is + 1-215-856-7952.  Open Mon-Fri 08:30-16:00 Eastern Time.

• Option 2, buy at Omio.com

  Omio.com sells tickets for Amtrak seated accommodation quickly & simply, in multiple languages & currencies.  However, it can't sell sleeper accommodation.  You just print out your ticket or show it on your phone.

Using a USA railpass

• A USA Railpass is available covering the whole Amtrak network or just parts of it, see advice on USA Railpasses here.

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A fast and frequent inter-city service links Boston, New York, Newark, Philadelphia, Baltimore and Washington DC.  There are two types of train: Acela Express 150mph high-speed trains with 1st class & business class (premium fares apply) and regular trains with coach class and (in most cases) business class.  There are also services from Boston to Portland (Maine) and from Philadelphia to Harrisburg. See www.amtrak.com for times, fares and online booking, or try Omio.com.

How long does it take?

• New York to Washington takes as little as 2h48 by Acela Express.

• New York to Boston takes 3h30 by Acela Express.

How much does it cost?

Fares vary like air fares, with cheaper prices available the further ahead you book.  Round trip fares are twice the one-way fare.  Children 2-12 (inclusive) travel at reduced fare (except on Acela Express where there is no discount for children on weekdays), children under 2 travel free (limit one child under 2 per adult).

Luggage on Washington-New York-Boston trains:  These trains don't have checked baggage, you simply take your luggage with you onto the train and put it on the racks just as you would on any European train.  You can take 2 items up to 23Kg each, plus two smaller personal bags each up to 11Kg - pretty generous, see www.amtrak.com/baggage-policy.

How to buy tickets

• Option 1, buy at www.amtrak.com

  Anyone from any country can buy tickets at Amtrak's own website www.amtrak.com.  This sells all types of accommodation, seat & sleeper.

  Booking opens 11 months in advance.  An e-ticket will be emailed to you, you can print it out or show it on your phone.

  Or call Amtrak 24 hours a day on 1-800-USA RAIL.  From outside of the USA, Amtrak's international desk is + 1-215-856-7952.  Open Mon-Fri 08:30-16:00 Eastern Time.

• Option 2, buy at Omio.com

  Omio.com sells Amtrak tickets quickly & simply, in multiple languages & currencies.  You just print your ticket or show it on your phone.

Acela Express

Acela Express is Amtrak's very own high-speed train, reaching 150 mph on certain sections of upgraded line.  It has first class & business class, there's no economy coach class.  Premium fares apply, with no discounts for children on weekdays.

Northeast Regional trains

Cheaper but slower than Acela Express, with coach class & business class between Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore & Washington DC.

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Other Amtrak routes

New York - Niagara Falls

• Three daily trains link New York via Albany with Niagara Falls.  Journey time is a leisurely 8 hours 30 minutes, a relaxing journey along the Hudson River Valley out of New York, past Storm King Mountain and West Point Military Academy, a very scenic route, highly recommended.  See either Omio.com or www.amtrak.com for times, fares and online booking.

New York - Toronto, Montreal (Canada)

• A daily train called the Maple Leaf links New York with Toronto via Niagara Falls, and another daily train called the Adirondack links New York with Montreal via the scenic Adirondack mountains.  Both trains travel along the Hudson River Valley out of New York, past Storm King Mountain and West Point Military Academy, a very scenic route, highly recommended.  See the Train travel in Canada page for train times.

Chicago - Memphis - New Orleans

• Amtrak's daily City of New Orleans links these cities, with Superliner seats, sleeping-cars, sightseer lounge and dining-car.  For times, fares and online booking, see www.amtrak.com.

Intercity trains in California

• Regular trains link Los Angeles, Anaheim (for Disneyland), and San Diego.  Regular trains link San Francisco (Oakland) with Sacramento, Bakersfield and San Jose.  A daily train links Los Angeles with San Francisco (Oakland).  See either Omio.com, www.amtrak.com or www.amtrakcalifornia.com for times, fares and online booking.

Seattle - Portland - Oakland (San Francisco) - Los Angeles

• Amtrak's daily Coast Starlight links these cities, with Superliner seats, sleeping-cars, sightseer lounge and dining-car.  For times, fares and online booking, see www.amtrak.com.

Portland - Seattle - Vancouver

• Amtrak runs an inter-city service between these cities, see www.amtrakcascades.com - Some of these services use European-design Talgo trains.

Luggage on trains without checked baggage:  Some of these trains don't have checked baggage, you simply take your luggage with you onto the train and put it on the racks just as you would on any European train.  Generous limits apply - 2 items each up to 23Kg, plus two smaller personal bags each up to 11Kg, see www.amtrak.com/baggage-policy.

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Short distance trains come in various types, all with comfortable air-conditioned seating and often with a café car.  On the Boston-New York-Washington DC route, there is now the premium fare, 150mph Acela Express high speed train, based on French TGV technology, but running on conventional tracks.

  Long distance trains east of Chicago or New Orleans

  Long distance trains west of Chicago or New Orleans

(1)  Long distance trains in the east

Long-distance trains east of Chicago (such as the New York-Chicago Lake Shore Limited, the New York to Florida Silver Star & Silver Meteor or the New York to New Orleans Crescent, but not the Washington to Chicago Capitol Limited) have Viewliner sleeping-cars, Amfleet reclining seat cars and an Amfleet cafe/lounge car serving snacks and drinks.  If you have paid for a sleeper, meals are included in the fare.

Amfleet reclining seats

These distinctive stainless-steel coaches have comfortable reclining seats with loads of legroom, drop-down tables & 120v power sockets for laptops & mobiles.  Drinking water is available in each coach.  Unlike in Europe, your reservation does not secure a specific seat in a specific coach, you can sit where you like once on board.  An attendant looks after each seats car, and will place a 'seat ticket' above your seat to indicate that the seat is taken.

Dining cars, cafe cars & flexible dining

Most long-distance trains have a cafe/lounge car serving hot & cold drinks and snacks, with an area with seats & tables for socialising.  The cafe/lounge car can be used by both sleeper and seats passengers.

Traditional dining-cars on all the 1-night long-distance trains east of Chicago were discontinued in 2018-2019.

Amtrak now offers sleeper passengers what it calls Flexible Dining on these trains.  Sleeper passengers are served pre-packed reheated or microwaved meals delivered to their sleeper compartments, or meals can be served in the table area of the cafe/lounge car.  The New York-Florida Silver Star and Silver Meteor retain dining-cars of the new Viewliner II type with an impressive double row of windows, but only to serve the pre-packaged Flexible Dining meals to sleeper passengers.

Latest update:  In March 2023 full dining has been reinstated on the Silver Star between New York and Florida.

Viewliner sleeping-cars

Long-distance trains in the East have Viewliner sleeping cars.  The distinctive double row of windows on these cars makes them light & airy during the day, and gives both upper & lower berths a window for star-gazing at night.  Travelling by Amtrak sleeper is a real treat.  All sleeper passengers get complimentary meals in the dining car,  and a 'coffee station' provides complimentary tea/coffee & fruit juice in the morning.  You return from dinner in the diner to find you bed made up for the night by the sleeper attendant.  A hot shower is available at the end of the corridor if you're travelling in a roomette, or en suite if you are travelling in a bedroom.  All necessary bedding, soap and towels are provided.  However, sleeper travel isn't cheap.  In Europe you can pay a small supplement for a berth in a shared couchette or sleeper compartment.  In the US, you have to pay for the whole room whether there are two of you or just one.  To give you a rough idea, some sample sleeper supplements are shown in the fares section above.  Viewliner sleeping-cars have:

• Roomettes (previously called standard bedrooms):  Each Viewliner sleeping-car has ten very compact 2-berth compartments called 'Roomettes' arranged either side of a central corridor.  They're just big enough for two seats facing each, and at night the seats pull together to form the lower berth, an upper berth drops down from the ceiling.  The beds are alongside the windows, and take up most of the room!  Roomettes have a fold-out washbasin, & fold-out table.  There is a shower at the end of the corridor.  In the original Viewliner I cars, roomettes have a concealed toilet under a cover beneath the washbasin (your companion may have to leave the room while you use it), the later Viewliner II sleeping-cars don't have this facility.

• Bedrooms (previously called deluxe bedrooms):  Each Viewliner sleeping-car has two Bedrooms, which are much larger than roomettes, and they have a private shower & toilet.  Bedrooms have freestanding chair & sofa in daytime mode, and upper & lower berths at night.  The lower berth is extra wide, almost a double bed by UK standards!

• Special bedrooms:  Similar to a bedroom, with private shower & toilet, but fully wheelchair-accessible.  Each Viewliner sleeping-car has one Special Bedroom.

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(2)  Long distance trains in the west

Long-distance trains between Chicago & Los Angeles/San Francisco/Seattle/Portland, also the New Orleans-Los Angeles Sunset Limited, Seattle-Los Angeles Coast Starlight and Washington DC-Chicago Capitol Limited use impressive double-deck Superliner cars.  Superliner trains have coach class reclining seats, sleeping-cars, a dining car & an observation-lounge car.  A route guide is available free on these trains, telling you want to look out for along the way.  Watch a video guide to Amtrak Superliner trains.

Superliner reclining seats

Coach class reclining seats are spacious with lots of legroom, comparable with business class on an airliner.  Don't worry if you can't afford a sleeper, these seats recline to about 40 degrees, and are quite easy to sleep in, in fact if there is any train in the world where I wouldn't much mind not having a sleeper, Amtrak trains are the ones I'd choose.  There are 120v power sockets for laptops & mobiles at each seat, and drinking water is available in each coach.  Unlike in Europe, your reservation does not secure a specific seat in a specific coach, you can sit where you like once on board.  An attendant looks after each seats car, and will place a 'seat ticket' above your seat to indicate that the seat is taken.  You can either bring a blanket or buy an Amtrak blanket from the lounge car.  Panorama photo of Superliner coach class.

Superliner Sightseer Lounge car

On the upper deck is an observation lounge with armchairs & tables and huge windows for sightseeing.  On the lower deck is a cafe selling drinks & snacks.  All passengers can use the lounge car, whether they are travelling in coach class or in the sleepers.  You end up spending most of your day here, watching America unfold in front of you!   Seats are available on a first-come, first served basis, but it's not usually too difficult to find a seat or two free.  However, they do fill up for the most scenic sections of the journey!  See panorama of a Superliner lounge car.

Superliner dining car

Trains west of Chicago retain a proper dining-car with freshly-cooked food.  During the pandemic, the dining-car was only open to sleeper passengers, but in 2023 coach seat passengers were allowed to use the diner again on most routes.  The dining-car serves breakfast, lunch & dinner.  All the tables in a Superliner dining-car are on the top deck for great views while you eat - the kitchens are downstairs.

Meals are included in the fare if you have a sleeper, although drinks are extra.  In the sleepers, the dining-car manager comes down the train asking each passenger which sitting for lunch or dinner they'd like, and issuing table reservations.  An announcement is made at the start of each sitting. 

Note that couples and singles don't get a whole 4-seater restaurant table to themselves, you'll normally be seated with other passengers. This is a great chance to meet people, even if you're travelling solo.  Panorama photo of Superliner dining-car.

What's the food like?  The food is surprisingly good:  The Angus Steak Burger is great for lunch, for dinner the herb-roast chicken & rice is good and the garlic butter marinated New York Strip Steak is excellent.  A beer costs around $6, a half bottle of very good Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot costs around $15.  For breakfast next morning a freshly-cooked breakfast of eggs, bacon & potatoes hits the spot.  There is also a children's menu.  Credit cards are accepted.  You can find sample menus on the Amtrak website www.amtrak.com, click 'plan' then look for 'meal & dining options'.

Since 2018, sleeper passengers on the Lake Shore Limited  (NYC-Chicago) & Capitol Limited (Washington-Chicago) get a pre-packed meal either served in their compartment or eaten in a lounge area.

Superliner sleeping-cars

Travelling by Amtrak sleeper is a real treat.  All sleeper passengers get complimentary breakfast, lunch & dinner in the dining car,  and each sleeping-car has a 'coffee station' with complimentary tea/coffee and fruit juice available in the morning.  You return from dinner in the diner to find you bed made up for the night by the sleeper attendant.  All necessary bedding, soap and towels are provided.  Superliner sleeping-cars are double-deck, with 10 very compact 2-berth roomettes and 4 larger 2-berth bedrooms on the upper deck, whilst the lower deck has another 4 roomettes, 1 family bedroom & 1 special accessible bedroom.  The bedrooms have a private shower & toilet, for roomette passengers there are toilets on both upper and lower decks, and a hot shower on the lower deck.  The gangways to the adjacent cars are on the upper deck.  However, sleeper travel isn't cheap.  In Europe you can pay a small supplement for a berth in a shared couchette or sleeper compartment.  In the US, you have to pay for the whole room whether there are two of you or just one.  To give you a rough idea, some sample sleeper supplements are shown in the fares section above.  Superliner sleeping-cars offer:

• Roomettes (previously called standard bedrooms):  Roomettes are just big enough for two seats facing each other with a small table by day and 2 berths at night.  Toilets are available along the corridor and there's a shower cubicle on the lower deck.  There are ten roomettes on the upper level, and four downstairs, arranged either side of a central corridor.  Panorama photo of Superliner roomette.

• Bedrooms (previously called deluxe bedrooms):  Bedrooms are much larger than roomettes, and have an en suite shower and toilet.  All five bedrooms in each car are on the upper level, off a side corridor.  Bedrooms have freestanding chair and sofa in daytime mode, and upper and lower berths at night.  Like the Viewliner bedrooms, the lower berth is extra wide.  Panorama photo of Superliner deluxe bedroom.

• Family bedroom:  Located at one end of the lower level, taking up the full width of the car, the family bedroom has two adult beds and two child beds.  There is no shower or toilet in a family bedroom, but these are nearby outside the room.

• Special bedroom:  Located at the other end of the lower level, also taking up the full width of the car, the special bedroom is wheelchair accessible, with two berths & private toilet.  There is no shower in a Superliner special bedroom, but a (non-wheelchair-accessible) shower is just outside the room.

Video guide: Riding a Superliner train

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The Grand Canyon connection

There are two main ways to reach the Grand Canyon as part of a cross-country train trip, after you get off Amtrak's Chief at Flagstaff Arizona.  The first is to use a bus between Flagstaff and the South Rim of the Canyon, journey time 1 hour 45 minutes each way.  The other is to take a connecting Amtrak Thruway bus to the nearby town of Williams and use the historic Grand Canyon Railway to the Canyon, journey time 2 hours Williams to the South Rim.

Option 1, Flagstaff to the Grand Canyon by bus

• Scheduled buses link Flagstaff's Amtrak station (which also incorporates the excellent local Visitor Centre) with the Grand Canyon's South Rim, with an 8am bus departure from Flagstaff conveniently connecting out of Amtrak's Chief from Los Angeles arriving at the Grand canyon around 1 hour 45 minutes later.  A bus returns from the Grand Canyon at 6.15pm (also at 4.15pm from March to October), arriving back in Flagstaff 1 hour 45 minutes or so later.  It can easily be done as a day trip, returning to Flagstaff in time for the evening Chief to Los Angeles, although you can of course choose to stay overnight at the hotels at the Grand Canyon.  For bus times see groometransportation.com/grand-canyon.  The bus fare is around $34 each way.

• Grand Canyon Tours from Flagstaff:  Alternatively, take a tour.  A company called The Grand Canyon Store http://grandcanyoncustomtours.com  offers 1-day tours from both Flagstaff & Williams to the Grand Canyon, including a tour to the Grand Canyon Village & South Rim, and the more extensive Inner Canyon Tour that actually takes you to the Colorado River at the bottom of the canyon, not merely to the South Rim as with other tours and the scheduled bus - not surprisingly the Inner Canyon Tour is their most popular!  They also do a tour from Flagstaff to the South Rim using the Grand Canyon Railway, see the section below.

• www.amtrakvacations.com can put together an Amtrak coast-to-coast package for you with a stopover at the Grand Canyon, or a tour from Los Angeles to the Grand Canyon and back, customised you your specification.  See Grand Canyon packages.

Option 2, Flagstaff to the Grand Canyon on the Grand Canyon Railway

• The more interesting way to reach the Canyon is on the Grand Canyon Railway from Williams to the Canyon's South Rim.  This is the original Santa Fe railroad branch line, Williams Junction just outside Williams town is where the line diverges from the Chicago-LA main line.  However, Amtrak's Southwest Chief no longer calls at Williams Junction (it called there at uncivilised times in any case), you now use Flagstaff as the stop for the Grand Canyon with Amtrak bus connection to Williams.

• To reach the Grand Canyon by train, get off the Amtrak's Chief at Flagstaff and take the connecting Amtrak Thruway bus to Williams.  The buses are timed to connect with train's arrival & departure to and from both Chicago and Los Angeles.  Williams is a pleasant town with plenty of motels, shops & diners.  The Grand Canyon Railway runs a daily morning train some 65 miles over the Santa Fe's historic railway from Williams station to Grand Canyon South Rim station in the Grand Canyon Village, right on the edge of the Canyon's South Rim.  The train returns in the afternoon, arriving in time to have dinner then catch the shuttle bus to Flagstaff for Amtrak's Chief onwards to Los Angeles.

• The Amtrak reservation system at www.amtrak.com will actually let you buy through tickets between Los Angeles and Grand Canyon in either direction, although if you want to book through tickets between New York or Chicago and Grand Canyon this involves an overnight stay in Williams so you'll need to use the multi-city booking feature.  But you can book your Amtrak trains at www.amtrak.com then book the Grand Canyon train at the GCR official website, www.thetrain.com.

• You can also book Chicago-LA packages with Amtrak travel and a trip to the Grand Canyon on the Grand Canyon Railway at www.amtrakvacations.com, Amtrak's official partner for tours and packages involving Amtrak travel.  See Grand Canyon packages.

The fare includes entry to the Wild West show at Williams station in the hour before departure, and some Wild West entertainment on board!

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One of the best ways to see America is with an Amtrak USA rail pass, but be aware of its limitations before you invest in one.

• A 30-day 10-segment rail pass costs around $499.

  That's 10 train rides, enough to travel coast to coast 5 times, at €49.90 per train ride!  Children aged 2-12 get passes for half price, under 2's travel free.

• Segments:  Sadly, since 2008 Amtrak's USA railpass no longer gives unlimited travel, it only covers a maximum of 10 'segments'.  This is the maximum number of individual train rides you can take during your 30 day pass duration.

  A segment is one train ride on one train:  So a 2-day 2,200-mile trip from Chicago to Los Angeles on the Southwest Chief counts as one segment, and a 30-minute ride on a Northeast Regional train is also one segment.  Go figure!  A journey involving a change of train (for example, New York to Chicago on the Lake Shore Limited then Chicago to San Francisco on the California Zephyr) counts as two segments.

• Will a railpass save you money?  Very probably, if you intend making 8, 9 or 10 long-distance train rides.  10 rides for $499 is €49.90 per train ride, if (say) you only used 7 segments it'd work out at $71 per train ride.  Now use the journey planner at www.amtrak.com to see what normal fares would be, to compare.  But read the bit about passholder quotas below!

Reservations, upgrades & quotas

• Railpasses are valid for any Amtrak train in the USA except Acela Express high-speed services and the Auto-Train car-carrying service.

• Reservations are required!  The railpass is not a ticket, you must make a (free) reservation before boarding any train.  You can make reservations online at www.amtrak.com after buying your pass.  Alternatively, you can make them at stations as you travel around or by calling Amtrak's 24 hour freephone number, 1-800-USA RAIL (from outside the States call Amtrak on (001) 215-856-7953, not free).

• Upgrading to a sleeper is no longer possible:  It used to be possible to upgrade to a private sleeper when using a pass, simply by paying the appropriate room charge.  For an idea of sleeper room charges, see the fares section above.  However, in 2021 this has changed, though it's not clear if this is permanent or temporary.  At present you cannot upgrade to a sleeper (or to business class) with a pass.  So only buy a pass if you're happy using a seat, even overnight.

• Warning about passholder quotas:  After buying your pass, you can make reservations online, or at stations as you go, or by calling Amtrak.  However, with a pass you can only book trains on which a Value or Saver fare is available.  If only the most expensive Flexible fare is showing, you cannot use your pass on that train, even if there are seats still available for customers paying cash.  Many trains have Value or Saver fares available even on the day before departure, and sometimes even on the day of travel itself, but not always.  Trains get busy in summer, Value and Saver fares have limited-availability and often sell out.  When they sell out, you can't use your pass on that train.  So don't buy a pass only to find you can't travel on the trains you need.  Before buying the pass, use the journey planner at www.amtrak.com to get a feel for how fares work, and to see if your chosen trains have Value or Saver fares left.

How to buy an Amtrak Railpass

• Check prices in pounds & buy a USA railpass (UK-based company, but passes sent to addresses worldwide)

• Check prices in Australian dollars & buy a USA railpass (Australia & NZ residents)

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Guidebooks

To get the most from a visit to the USA, you'll need a good guidebook.  For the independent traveller, I think this means either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide.  I personally prefer the layout of the Lonely Planet, but others prefer the Rough Guide.  Both guidebooks provide the same excellent level of practical information and historical background.  You won't regret buying one of these..!  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.  For a specific guide to train travel around the States, buy a copy of John Pitt's USA by Rail, or try Jim Loomis's All Aboard.

Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.com

Alternatively, you can download just the chapters or areas you need in .PDF format from the Lonely Planet Website, from around £2.99 or US$4.95 a chapter.

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Hotels in the USA

New York:  The Algonquin is New York's oldest operating hotel, opened in 1902, and a designated New York City Historic Landmark.  Perfectly located in mid-town Manhattan, a block or two from Times Square one way and Grand Central the other, with a lovely wood-panelled lobby and even its own hotel cat, which you may find wandering the corridors or sitting on the reception desk.  To check prices & book, click here.  For the Algonquin's history see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algonquin_Hotel.

Washington DC:  Phoenix Park Hotel.  A great choice, directly across the road from Union Station so handy for arrivals and departures by train, with an excellent Irish Pub doing great food & Irish beer on the premises, and just 2 minutes walk from the capitol.  From around $154 for a double.

Los Angeles:  Hotel Queen Mary (closed for refurbishment in mid-2022, but reopened in April 2023).  This has got to be of the most fascinating places to stay, anywhere.  If you go to Los Angeles, consider making the Hotel Queen Mary your base to explore the Los Angeles - Hollywood - Disneyland area.  The original Queen Mary of 1936 has been permanently moored at Long Beach in California since the late 1960s, some 25 miles from Los Angeles Union Station (about a $90 taxi ride), and it's undoubtedly the most wonderful place to stay in LA.  The hotel consists of most of the original first class cabins on board the Queen Mary, and there are plenty of restaurants and bars available on board, too.  Hotel guests can more or less wander the ship at will, and even sign up for ghost hunts at night on board (and yes, from my own experience there is something going on aboard that beautiful ship!).  Wood panelled art deco interiors have been preserved, although a few modern items have been installed such as televisions, and (as we worked out from a historic deck plan) in some cases two of the Queen Mary's original cabins have been knocked into one hotel suite by turning one of the en suite bathrooms into a connecting corridor.  She is one of the most atmospheric places I have ever stayed.

Backpacker hostels in the USA: www.hostelworld.com

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in many places across the States at rock-bottom prices.

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Flights to the USA

1)  Check flight prices at Opodo, www.opodo.com

2)  Use Skyscanner to compare flight prices & routes worldwide across 600 airlines...

3)  Lounge passes

Make the airport experience a little more bearable with a VIP lounge pass, it's not as expensive as you think, see www.loungepass.com.  I have found that having lounge access with complimentary tea, coffee, food and wine makes all the difference to an economy flight.

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Travel insurance & other tips

Always take out travel insurance

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself.  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

  www.staysure.co.uk offers enhanced Covid-19 protection & gets 4.7 out of 5 on Trustpilot.

  www.columbusdirect.com is also a well-know brand.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

Get an eSIM with mobile data package

Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for the country you're visiting and stay connected.  Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list.  Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data.

Get a Curve card for foreign travel

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month at time of writing.  The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.

How it works:  1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader.  The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than digging a card out).  I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card, they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  Why you need a VPN

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi.  It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply.  See VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription.  I get a small commission to help support this site.

Carry an Anker powerbank

Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged.  I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet.  Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from buy from Amazon.com.

 

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