En route from Istanbul to eastern Turkey by train, to cross into the Caucasus...  Photo courtesy of Conor Meleady

The Caucasus by train?

You can travel from western Europe to Georgia, Armenia or Azerbaijan, and once there you can use trains to travel safely and comfortably between these countries.

  Western Europe to Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan

  Istanbul to Tbilisi by train & bus

  Tbilisi to Yerevan by train

  Tbilisi to Baku by train

On other pages...

  Train travel in Turkey

  Train travel in Russia

If you have more information or photos that would be useful for this page, please e-mail me!

Useful country information

London to the Caucasus by train

Western Europe to Georgia, Armenia or Azerbaijan...

This page explains how to travel overland by train from London or anywhere in western Europe to Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan in the Caucasus.  It also covers train travel between Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan, and travel by train from Istanbul and Ankara in Turkey to these countries.  For overland travel from London or western Europe to the Caucasus, you have three basic options:

• Option 1, via Turkey:  Travel from western Europe to Istanbul, then across Turkey into Georgia, then onwards to Armenia or Azerbaijan.

• Option 2, via Black Sea ferry:  Travel to Odessa by train, then take the ferry from Chornomorsk (near Odessa) to Batumi in Georgia, then a train to Tbilisi and another train to Armenia or Azerbaijan.

• Option 3, via Russia:  Travel from western Europe to either Kiev or Moscow, then take the 3-times-a-week train from Moscow to Baku, or the once a week train from Kiev across Russia to Baku.  This route means getting a Russian visa.

Option 1, via Turkey...

• Step 1, travel from London to Istanbul by train as shown on the London to Turkey page.  The journey takes 3 nights, departures are daily.

• Spend at least 1 night in Istanbul.

• Step 2, travel from Istanbul to Tbilisi (Georgia) by train & bus as shown in the section below.  Journey 2 nights, 3 days to Batumi, 3 nights, 3 days to Tbilisi.

• Step 3, travel from Tbilisi to Yerevan (Armenia) by train as shown here or from Tbilisi to Baku (Azerbaijan) by train as shown here, 1 night.

Option 2, via Black Sea ferry from Odessa...

• Step 1, travel from London or anywhere in western Europe through Kiev to Odessa by train.  How to travel by train from London to Odessa.

• Step 2, sail from Chornomorsk (just south of Odessa) to Batumi in Georgia  by ferry.  The ferry sails every 2-4 days and takes 2 or 3 nights, the ferry website is www.ukrferry.com/eng/schedules.

• Step 3, Tbilisi to Yerevan (Armenia) by train as shown here or Tbilisi to Baku (Azerbaijan) by train as shown here.  Journey 1 night.

Option 3, via Russia...

• Step 1, travel from western Europe to either Kiev or Moscow.  How to travel by train from London to Moscow.  How to travel by train from London to Kiev.

• Step 2, take the direct train from Moscow to Baku in Azerbaijan which runs 3 times per week, or the once a week train from Kiev across Russia to Baku.  There was a period when the Russia/Azerbaijan border was closed to westerners which rendered this option impractical, but I'm now getting occasional reports that westerners can indeed travel this way.  The train passes through the republic of Dagestan, but according to one traveller (2018) "The train was staffed with security personnel, we never felt unsafe and enjoyed the open-minded and friendly behaviour and hospitality of our fellow (mostly Azeri) passengers."  The same traveller reports, "There was no issue at all for us despite our German passports.  No questioning at all nor any other problems.  The border control went fast and smooth and our e-visas for Azerbaijan were accepted without hesitation".

• Step 3, travel Baku to Tbilisi by train as shown here.  Journey 1 night.

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It's easy, cheap and comfortable, not to mention very scenic, to take a sleeper train right across Turkey from Istanbul or Ankara to Erzurum or Kars, then transfer by bus to the Georgian border at Sarp/Batumi for an onward train to Tbilisi.  Although the border between Turkey and Armenia is closed, you can easily travel from Istanbul to Tbilisi, then take a train on to Yerevan in Armenia.  There's also a train from Tbilisi to Baku in Azerbaijan.

NEW DIRECT ANKARA-KARS-TBILISI-BAKU TRAIN:  A new railway has been built between Kars and Tbilisi, formally inaugurated way back in October 2017 . A new direct sleeper train should have started running once a week between Ankara, Tbilisi & Baku some time in 2020, but its launch has been postponed with no start date announced.  The train will have 4-berth economy sleepers, 4-berth comfort sleepers, 1 & 2 bed sleepers with en suite toilet & shower, and a restaurant car.  These cars have been built by Stadler in Switzerland and are now in Azerbaijan on test.  Fares & timetable will be posted here when known. Please don't email me to ask, there's still no sign of the train starting any time soon, as soon as I know anything I'll post it here.

Istanbul ► Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan

• Step 1, travel from Istanbul to Ankara by YHT high-speed train as shown on the Train Travel in Turkey page.

• Step 2, travel from Ankara to Erzurum or Kars by sleeper train:  Travel by train from Ankara to Erzurum or Kars, see the train times, fares & information here.  For example, the Doğu Express leaves Ankara at 18:53 arriving Erzurum 16:53 and Kars 22:15 next day. The train is modern and air-conditioned with restaurant car, reclining seats and air-conditioned sleeping-cars with private 1 or 2 bed compartments with fridge to keep your beer cold...  It's a spectacularly scenic journey right across Turkey, highly recommended.  You can book the train online at the Turkish railways website, which accepts non-Turkish credit cards, see the advice on using www.tcdd.gov.tr here.

• Step 3, travel from Erzurum or Kars to Batumi by bus:  Take a bus or dolmus (local minibus taxi) from Erzurum or Kars to the Georgian border at Sarp 275km from Erzurum, 283km from Kars, about 4h45), then another dolmus the 16 km from Sarp to Batumi, just the other side of the border.

• Step 4, travel from Batumi to Tbilisi by train:  There are now two daytime electric trains on this route, leaving Batumi 07:30 and 17:55, arriving Tbilisi at 12:25 and 22:50 respectively.  The fare is 46 Lari (about €16) in 1st class and around 20 Lari (€7) in 2nd class.  These trains are now modern air-conditioned Stadler Kiss double-decker electric trains, see the photos below.  You can check current times at the Georgian Railways website, www.railway.ge/?web=0&lang=eng, look for 'passenger operations' then 'Traffic schedule'. 

  The station at Batumi used to be just outside the town at Makhindjauri, but in 2015 a new central station opened in Batumi itself, much closer to the centre.

  You can buy tickets at the station, or you can now book online in English within 40 days of departure at tickets.railway.ge (for English change GE to EN, you enter your passport as document number to register.  I have received several confirmed reports of successful online purchases in English with UK & US credit cards.  Alternatively, you can also book at private agency https://biletebi.ge which may easier, there's just a small booking fee of around 1.50 Lari.  If you have feedback on travel via this route, please e-mail me.

• Step 5, for Yerevan (Armenia), take a train from Tbilisi to Yerevan, see the Tbilisi-Yerevan section below.  In fact, in summer (mid June to September) there's a direct train from Batumi.

• Step 5, for Baku (Azerbaijan), take a train from Tbilisi to Baku, see the Tbilisi-Baku section below.

 Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia ► Istanbul

• Step 1 starting in Yerevan (Armenia):  Take a train from Yerevan to Tbilisi, see the Tbilisi-Yerevan section below.

• Step 1, starting in Baku (Azerbaijan), take a train from Baku to Tbilisi, see the Tbilisi-Baku section below.

• Step 2, travel from Tbilisi to Batumi by train:  There are now two daytime electric trains on this route, leaving Tbilisi 08:00 and 17:35, arriving Batumi at 12:59 and 22:34 respectively.  The fare is 46 Lari (€16) in 1st class and around 20 Lari (€7) in 2nd class. 

  Check current times at the Georgian Railways website, www.railway.ge, look for 'passenger operations' then 'Traffic schedule'. 

  You can buy tickets at the station or online in English within 40 days of departure at tickets.railway.ge (for English change GE to EN, you enter your passport as document number to register).  So far I have received several reports of successful online purchases in English with UK & US credit cards.  Alternatively, you can also book at private agency https://biletebi.ge with small booking fee of around 1.50 Lari if you find that easier.  If you have feedback on travel via this route, please e-mail me.

  Tip:  There's a decent cafe serving good coffee and cooked breakfasts on the top floor of Tbilisi station.

  Note that the station at Batumi used to be just outside the town at Makhindjauri, but in 2015 a new central station has opened in Batumi itself, closer (2.5km) to the city centre.

• Step 3, travel from Batumi to Erzurum or Kars by bus:  Take a dolmus the 16km from Batumi to Sarp, walk across the border, then take a Turkish bus or dolmus (local minibus taxi) from Sarp to Erzurum or Kars.

• Step 2, travel from Kars or Erzurum to Ankara by sleeper train, see the train times, fares & information here.  For example, the Doğu Express leaves Kars at 07:45 and Erzurum at 12:26 arriving Ankara at 08:05 next day.  The train is modern and air-conditioned with restaurant car, reclining seats and air-conditioned sleeping-cars with private 1 or 2 bed compartments with fridge to keep your beer cold...  It's a spectacularly scenic journey right across Turkey, highly recommended.  You can book the train online at the Turkish railways website, see the advice on using www.tcdd.gov.tr here.

• Step 1, travel from Ankara to Istanbul by YHT high-speed train as shown on the Train Travel in Turkey page.

Taking the train from Istanbul & Ankara to Erzurum or Kars...

On board the sleeper from Ankara eastwards.  This is a sleeper compartment with seats folded out and beds folded away...  Courtesy of Shigeki Murao.

Great scenery on the train to Kars:  Two views from the Dogu Express, alongside the Euphrates river between Sivan & Erzurum.  Away from road development, you'll see great scenery from the comfort of your train.  It's the  inexpensive & relaxed alternative to airport stress or a nightmare journey in a cramped bus.   Photos courtesy of Conor Meleady.

More scenery from the Dogu Express...  Photos courtesy of Maximilian Meyer.

An omelette and tea in the dining car...  Photos courtesy of Maximilian Meyer.

Breathtaking - the Dogu Express in eastern Turkey.  Courtesy of Matthew Woodward, read his blog about the journey here.

Taking the train from Batumi to Tbilisi...

Batumi's new (and largely deserted) central station.  Courtesy of Krzysztof Sokol.		In the train to Tbilisi...

The train between Batumi Central & Tbilisi, seen at Tbilisi main station.  These two daily trains in each direction are now smart double-deck Stadler Kiss electric trains like these, clean, modern and air-conditioned.  Courtesy of Peter Deegan.

Scenery from the train from Batumi to Tbilisi.  Courtesy of Peter Deegan.

Travellers' reports...

Traveller Emily Shirley travelled to Tbilisi:  "There are several hotels in Erzurum. The posh Guzelyurt restaurant appears to be the only one serving wine and other alcoholic drinks. There is a blues night club down the hill serving beer which has live bands.  To get to the border with Georgia, you need to locate the office of Artvin bus company. They have buses every 3 hours or so to Hopa. The coaches are modern and comfortable with free drinking water distributed in small cartons and handwash liquid.  The stop for lunch/supper can be brief so be alert about grabbing your grub in the cafe a.s.a.p.  Coach departures are announced through a speaker in the tree.  The bus passes through a series of deep gorges where blasting is going on for the new railway to Baku.  Once you are dropped at a junction in Hopa, you need to find your way to the border, 15kms away.  Cadge a lift, take a taxi or if you have a folding bike with you: cycle there. It is completely flat along the shore of the Black Sea.  You will find a warm welcome to Georgia on the border if you are European or American. On the other side there are taxis and buses and ATMS to get you to Batumi about  23 kms away.  Few people speak English so knowledge of a Slav language can be helpful even though their own language is not Slav. Most people to admit to understanding Russian even though the Red Army has invaded South Ossetia and Abkhezia.  Georgian Railways run a puntual comfortable service from Batumi to Tbilisi. It is advisable to take this rather than the dangerous " Mashrutkas" minibuses often 40 years old with bald tyres. You are risking your life in such death traps.  From Batumi there is also a train to Yerevan, Armenia which stops at Tbilisi.  In typically glitzy Armenian style the curtains are gold satin.  Sleeper cabins are cheap, colourful and comfortable. Tbilisi station is modern with many shops and fast food restaurants.

Traveller Gregory Heilers travelled to Tbilisi:  "(1) From Erzurum, take the Artvin Express mini bus, which runs twice daily at 07:30 & 18:00 taking 5.5 hours from Gurcu Kapi district of Erzurum to Hopa (via Artvin, hence the name).  Fare 30 TL. (2) Travel from Hopa to Sarp by dolmus - you can get dropped off there which the driver did for me after the mini-bus attendant understood I was headed to Georgia (Gurcistan in Turkish).  Cost 3.5 TL.  (3) In Sarp, walk across the border- there was a line 2km long of vehicles waiting to cross that included the buses from Turkish cities to Batumi/Tbilisi and beyond... I was glad to have not taken a direct bus.  (4) Take a Georgian dolmus (marshutka) from the frontier to Batumi, cost 1 lari.  Pretty much the only direction you can go as I saw, so even if you can't understand the writing or language- may as well try.  (5) Travel from Batumi to Tbilisi train, fare 40 lari.  It departs 22:30 and arrives Tblisi 06:45."

If you have any more feedback on this or any other route, please e-mail me.

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Tbilisi ► Yerevan

• In winter from late September to mid-June, train 371 runs Tbilisi-Yerevan every second day on odd-numbered dates, leaving Tbilisi at 20:20 and arriving Yerevan at 06:55 next morning.  The train reaches the Armenian border around 23:00.

• In summer from mid-June to late September, train 201 runs daily, starting in Batumi (Makhindjauri) at 15:40, leaving Tbilisi at 22:16 & arriving Yerevan 07:35.

• It has 1st class spalny vagon 2-berth sleepers, 2nd class kupé 4-berth sleepers, 3rd class platskartny open plan sleepers.

  The train was completely re-equipped in 2021 with smart modern air-conditioned carriages built in Russia.  1st class 2-berth features card-key compartment locks, and both 1st & 2nd class sleepers feature a personal combination safe for valuables for each passenger and a shower at the end of the corridor.  All necessary bedding is provided.

• You can check times at the Georgian railways website  www.railway.ge/?web=0&lang=eng, click 'Passenger operations' then 'Traffic schedule' then 'International trains'.  Also see www.ukzhd.am (the English version doesn't work, so use Google translate).  Check exact times locally.

• How much does it cost?

  The fare is around 150 laris in 1st class 2-berth sleeper, 110 laris in a 2nd class 4-berth sleeper, or 85 laris in a 3rd class open-plan sleeper.  At time of writing, £1 = 4.3 laris, €1 = 3.7 laris.

• How to buy tickets...

  Buy tickets at the station, from the helpful English-speaking lady at counter 14 (or window 2, as more recently reported) at Tbilisi's main station.

Yerevan ► Tbilisi

• In winter from late September to mid-June, train number 372 leaves Yerevan at 21:30 every second day on even-numbered dates, arriving Tbilisi at 07:35 next morning.

• In summer from mid-June to late September, train 202 runs daily, leaving Yerevan at 15:30 and arriving Tbilisi at 00:12 (just past midnight) and Makhindjauri (Batumi) at 07:30.

• The train has 1st class spalny vagon 2-berth sleepers, 2nd class kupé 4-berth sleepers, 3rd class platskartny open plan sleepers.

  The train was completely re-equipped in 2021 with smart modern air-conditioned carriages built in Russia.  1st class 2-berth features card-key compartment locks, and both 1st & 2nd class sleepers feature a personal combination safe for valuables for each passenger and a shower at the end of the corridor.  All necessary bedding is provided.

• See www.ukzhd.am (the English version doesn't work, so use Google translate).  Check times locally, as times may vary - a display board at Yerevan station shows times, prices and berth availability each day for the next month.

• How much does it cost?

  The fare is 25,185 Armenian drams in 1st class 2-berth sleeper, 17,195 Armenian drams in a 2nd class 4-berth sleeper, 10,425 drams in a 3rd class open plan sleeper.  At time of writing, £1 = 712 Armenian dram, €1 = 612 Armenian dram.

• How to buy tickets...

  Buy tickets at the station.  Staff at the station don't speak English, though there may be someone able to translate or try writing down what you want.  However, apart from this buying a ticket is quick and efficient . The ticket office is on the left hand side near the platforms.  There's an ATM outside the ticket office to get out cash.

The sleeper train from Tbilisi in Georgia to Yerevan in Armenia, re-equipped in 2021.  Photo courtesy of Stefan Teubner.

2-berth Spalny Vagon (1st class) compartment on the Tbilisi-Yerevan train.  4-berth Kupé (2nd class) is identical, other than having two upper berths as well as the two lower.  Seats convert to berths at night, all necessary bedding is provided.  Larger photo.  Larger photo .Photos courtesy of Stefan Teubner.

Travellers' reports...

This Tbilisi to Yerevan report is from 2022:  "The carriage was very warm, too much so for me. It was -7 outside so I understand why they had it on maximum, but the windows don't open so it just became super stuffy.  I was impressed by how spotless and new it was (having previously travelled on the old train it's like a whole world of difference). Each compartment has four electrical outlets and they are very bright when all of the lights are turned on. Doors can be locked from the inside, but the key card system is not in use.  I was handed bedding about an hour into the journey, as before.  WiFi exists in theory, but does not work when you try to connect.  Border checks were fairly efficient.  Georgians first, who take your passport away; then Armenians - customs officers who are mostly concerned with smuggling and trafficking, then military-looking young men (purpose unclear), then border officers who come around with a little computer and stamp the passport there and then if you don't need a visa.  I was expecting to be asked about my trip to Azerbaijan but was not (I think this is because I tried my utmost to look like a dorky tourist) - they seem to do this usually. I'm British and that was my experience: I know they made it difficult for Turkish passengers a few doors down.  Finally, someone in nurse's attire came around and asked for my vaccination records, and she then didn't bother asking for my PCR test even though one is required (again probably better safe than sorry).  And about an hour after that we were on our way.  The landscape was really quite special. Even though it was the dead of night in the middle of winter, it was possible to see the valleys and old industrial towns glinting in the snow.  It was deeply special.  There's absolutely no better way to travel."

Traveller Stefan Teubner travelled Tbilisi to Yerevan in 2021, just after the train resumed, re-equipped with new cars:  "Georgian land borders reopened on 1 June 2021 after having been closed for more than 14 months. Therefore it was possible to relaunch the Armenian sleeper train Yerevan-Tbilsi-Batumi. The train is fully operational from 15 June 2021 and operates daily throughout the summer season (presumably till end of September). Fares have increased by about 20% to 25% largely due to the massive devaluation of the Georgian Lari. The current official fare in spalny (1st class 2-berth, SV) is GEL 150.65. Due to the current pandemic and travel restrictions in Georgia (PCR test upon entry + second PCR test on the third day of stay on the territory of Georgia + a strict nightly curfew and indoor/outdoor mask mandate in Georgia) the train is rather empty, so there's no need to waste money on pre-booking through a travel agency which charges an additional 30% to 40% on top of the official fare. Just go to the station and book your ticket a day or two in advance and there is space available. Note that for entering Armenia, only a simple PCR test is required, no nightly curfew is in place and masks do not need to be worn outside. Starting 1 July 2021 the mask mandate will be abolished completely and already now nobody cares about it. So if you want to experience 'normal life' go and visit Armenia! Now the most interesting part: The train has brand new Russian sleeper cars, built for South Caucasus Railways, part of a modernization program of Armenia's railroad network. As you can see the train is now very comfortable and luckily has nothing more to do with the old and worn-out Soviet cars which have been phased out. The carriages come with a pleasant air-conditioning system which also runs while the train stops at the border and toilets can be used all the time. Every compartment is equipped with 4 sockets. Even in platskartny (3rd class open-plan sleepers) sockets are provided at each bunk. In spalny (1st class 2-berth) every compartment can be locked with an individual key card."

If you have any more feedback on this or any other route, please e-mail me.

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Tbilisi ► Baku

• There's an overnight train from Tbilisi to Baku in Azerbaijan every night.  Train 37 leaves Tbilisi daily around 20:35 arriving Baku at 08:50 next morning.  The train has 1st class spalny vagon 2-bed sleepers, 2nd class kupé 4-berth sleepers and 3rd class platskartny open-plan sleepers.

  You can check times at www.railway.ge - change language to English and click Passenger operations.  The distance is 551km.

  Important:  The border between Georgia and Azerbaijan has remained closed since the pandemic.  This train is suspended until further notice.

• How much does it cost?

  The fare is around 84 laris in a 1st class sleeper, 52 laris in a 2nd class sleeper 35 laris in a 3rd class sleeper. 

• How to buy tickets...

  Buy a ticket at the station.

• A visa usually required for Azerbaijan, see https://evisa.gov.az/en or www.visaforazerbaijan.org.uk.

Baku ► Tbilisi

• Train 38 leaves Baku every day at 20:40 arriving Tbilisi at 08:55.  The train has 1st class spalny vagon (SV) 2-bed sleepers, 2nd class kupé 4-berth sleepers, 3rd class platskartny open-plan sleepers.  The distance is 551km.

  Important:  The border between Georgia and Azerbaijan has remained closed since the pandemic.  This train is suspended until further notice.

• How much does it cost?

  The fare is 57 manat in a 1st class sleeper, 33 manat in a 2nd class sleeper or 23 in a 3rd class sleeper.  At time of writing, £1 = 2.22 manat, €1 = 1.94 manat.

• How to buy tickets online...

  You can easily buy a ticket from Baku to Tbilisi at https://ticket.ady.az - select English top right and book from Baku-Pass to Tbilisi-Pass.  You can book a maximum of 10 days in advance.  You pay with MasterCard, Visa or Maestro.  You get a booking reference which you need to collect tickets at Baku station, you can show this reference number on your smartphone if you can't print it out.

  Tickets must be collected at least 1 hour before departure from the ticket counters on the lower level - follow the signs to kassalar.  A queuing system operates at the ticket office, so take a numbered ticket (press online bilety) and wait for your turn.  Bring your passport.

• How to buy tickets at the station...

  You can easily buy at the station, but remember that your passport will be required.  If there are no sleepers left, don't worry, buy a seats ticket and you may be able to upgrade on the train.

The train from Tbilisi, arrived at Baku.  Photo courtesy of Holger Gester...

The Tbilisi to Baku train...  The train now has modernised air-conditioned sleeping-cars, all non smoking.  Above centre, the 2-berth Spalny Vagon even comes with a flat-screen TV.  Above right, 4-berth Kupé.  Photos courtesy of Mark Thalgott,

Travellers' reports...

Traveller Alistair Campbell reports from a Tbilisi to Baku train journey in 2017:  "We bought our tickets on the top floor of the Tbilisi railway station / shopping centre. International tickets are only sold from the left side windows and you need to get a numbered ticket which gets you into the queue. No queue when we were there but you still have to get a ticket and then get directed to a window. We wanted to travel in the 1st class sleeper at a cost of 84.86 laris each and the lady in the office understood this, even though she had little English. You can check that you have bought the right class as the ticket class is on the ticket she gives you. This shows CB(....) for 1st class (CB is Cyrillic for SV, short for "Spalny Vagon"). They only take cash, no cards. Platform entry is from the 1st floor of the shopping centre and the sign telling you which platform your train is on can be found over the ticket office on the top floor. There is also similar information on the platforms. The train was in the platform being prepared when we arrived an hour before departure at 19:30. We were allowed on about 30 minutes before departure. The compartment for two was clean, reasonably well lit and comfortable. We were given clean bedding as we left Tbilisi at no charge by the lady carriage manager, who spoke enough English for us to get by. She also provided us with some clean glasses so that we could drink the wine we had brought. There is no food or drink on the train but there was a constant supply of boiling water available from an urn at the end of the corridor. The manager did bring us a tray of black tea and sweets for breakfast. The ride was pretty good and we slept well. The border was pretty easy. We did not leave our compartment to leave Georgia, just handed our passports in, together with our Azerbaijan e-visa paperwork. Eventually, all was returned and we headed across no-man's-land. The Azerbaijan border took longer. We were summoned, one-by-one, to the end of the carriage to be questioned and photographed. Then a dog and a man with a mirror on a pole looked around out compartment and chatted about football. And that was it. It did overrun by about 30 minutes and we eventually arrived into Baku the following morning 90 minutes late. Here, again, the station is embedded in a shopping centre. If you need money, there is an ATM on the floor below the platforms. This floor leads out onto a square where there are taxis, 5 ANZ should get you anywhere."

Traveller Lauri Hallila reports from a Baku to Tbilisi journey in 2017:  "We tried to book our tickets online at biletonline.ady.az, but didn't succeed. After registering, you can still check there how many places are left in different classes.  We had a local helping us to buy the tickets at the station one and half days before our journey; there were only two places left in spalny vagon in different compartments, so we bought tickets for kupé for little over 33 manats per person.  We were told to pay the tickets at a different counter from where we originally went.  They didn't speak English downstairs where we bought our tickets; we later noticed that the counter 22 mentioned in another report where they might speak English was upstairs.  The train leaves at 21:10 and is supposed to arrive the next morning at 10:40, though we arrived ten minutes earlier.  Train arrives close to border at around 7, but border formalities take about 3 hours, one & a half hours on each side of the border.  An old Azeri woman and her granddaughter shared our compartment for part of the way; luckily, they both spoke good English and were enjoyable company. We could buy some tea or coffee in the morning for 1 manat per cup in the morning."

Traveller Ann Woodward reports from a Tbilisi to Baku train journey in 2017:  "I took the overnight train from Tbilisi to Baku on Sunday night. I paid 84 lari for my ticket (~$34 US dollars), as did the couple in the cabin next to me.  We'd purchased tickets in Tbilisi one week+ ahead, so not sure if that had anything to do with the pricing.  Some of the people who sell tickets at the station in Tbilisi speak English, but if you get someone who doesn't, they'll direct you to someone who can.  We left exactly on time. Arrived at the Georgia border 8:30pm, were done by 9:30pm. Progressed a bit further down the tracks to the Azerbaijan border. That entry process was complete by 11pm. We arrived in Baku basically on time, perhaps 10 minutes late. Passengers should be aware that there's no food or drink on sale on the train. There was a machine with hot water, but you need to bring your own mug, tea/coffee, sugar, etc.. It was a pleasant experience & I'm glad I took the train instead of flying."

Baku station...

A modern station building - comparable to a shopping mall - has now been built adjacent to Baku's historic original station.  There is an ATM in the level below the platforms.  There are plenty of taxis on the forecourt.  Photos below courtesy of Frank Pawlowski.

Baku station, original building...		Baku station, inside the new station building...

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Find hotels

Backpacker hostels...

www.hostelworld.com:  If you're on a tight budget, don't forget about backpacker hostels.  Hostelworld offers online booking of cheap private rooms or dorm beds in backpacker hostels in most cities at rock-bottom prices.

Travel insurance & VPN

Always take out travel insurance...

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy myself.  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

In the UK, reliable insurers include Columbus Direct.

If you have a pre-existing medical condition or are over 65, see www.JustTravelCover.com.

You can use Confused.com to compare prices & policies from many different insurers.

  If you live in the USA try Travel Guard USA.

A Curve card saves on foreign transaction fees...

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then charge you a currency conversion fee.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month at time of writing.  The balance goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.

How it works:  1. Download the app for iPhone or Android.  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to most European addresses including the UK.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, just like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance onto whichever of your debit or credit cards you choose.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself - I get some commission if you sign up to Curve, but I'm recommending it here because it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card - they'll give you £5 cashback through that link, too.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  VPNs & why you need one explained...

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN means your connection to the internet is encrypted & always secure, even using unsecured WiFi.  In countries such as China where access to Twitter & Facebook is restricted, a VPN gets around these restrictions.  And lastly, you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geographic restrictions which some websites apply - for example one booking site charges a booking fee to non-European visitors but none to European visitors, so if you're not located in Europe you can avoid this fee by browsing with a UK IP address using a VPN.  VPNs & why you need one explained.  ExpressVPN is a best buy and I use it myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription, and I get a small commission to help support this site.

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