On the trail of the Jellicoe Express
There's no need to fly! Travel the scenic and sustainable way, by train to Thurso, Britain's most northerly railway station, then by ferry from Scrabster to Stromness on Orkney with Northlink Ferries. This page explains how.
You'll be travelling in the footsteps of the wartime London to Thurso Naval Special, better known as the Jellicoe Express. This was a direct train that linked London and Thurso during both world wars, carrying military personnel to and from the naval base at Scapa Flow in Orkney. Covering 717 miles, it was the longest-ever scheduled British train. You'll see plaques commemorating the Jellicoe Express at Thurso station. More about the Jellicoe Express.
Step 2, take the Far North Line to Thurso
Step 3, walk or taxi from Thurso to
Scrabster
Step 4, Scrabster to Stromness by
ferry
Bus X1 from Stromness to Kirkwall
Summary timetable
This summary shows the Caledonian Sleeper between London & Inverness, but you can also use the daytime Highland Chieftain as explained below.
An additional Inverness<>Orkney train/ferry combination is possible May-September when the lunchtime ferry operates. Alternative route via Aberdeen.
Step 1, travel to Inverness
London to Inverness by Caledonian Sleeper
Every night except Saturday night, the famous Caledonian Sleeper leaves London Euston around 21:00, picking up at Birmingham International and Crewe, arriving Inverness around 08:45 next morning. Southbound, it leaves Inverness around 20:45 daily except Saturday nights, arriving London Euston around 08:00. Some rooms have en suite shower & toilet, the Caledonian Double rooms even feature a double bed. Read more about the Caledonian Sleeper here.
If you travel in a Club or Caledonian Double room, you can use the Caledonian Sleeper lounge in Inverness between arriving by sleeper and 10:30, just before the Far North Line train to Thurso leaves. The lounge has complimentary tea, coffee, biscuits and soft drinks, toilets & showers. Southbound, you can use it for 2h before the sleeper leaves. The lounge is just across the road from Inverness station's main exit.
Buy sleeper tickets at www.sleeper.scot.
Or take a daytime train from London, York, Newcastle, Edinburgh, Glasgow...
ScotRail runs regular trains from Edinburgh & Glasgow to Inverness, buy tickets at www.scotrail.co.uk or www.thetrainline.com. See rail network map.
From London, LNER's Highland Chieftain leaves London Kings Cross around 12:00, York around 14:00 & Newcastle around 15:00, arriving Inverness around 20:00. It runs from London to Edinburgh with plenty to see on the way, then continues over the scenic Highland Line to reach Inverness. Southbound, the Highland Chieftain leaves Inverness daily at around 07:55 for Newcastle, York & London, reaching London Kings Cross around 16:00. Buy tickets at www.lner.co.uk or www.thetrainline.com.
You'll need to stay overnight in Inverness: The Royal Highland Hotel is right next to the station, handy for arrival and departure. Built by the Highland Railway in 1856 as the station hotel, it features a Victorian grand staircase said to have inspired the grand staircase on RMS Titanic.
Above, the sleeper from London has arrived in Inverness right on time.
A 1 or 2-berth room on the Caledonian Sleeper (above left) and the sleeper's club car (above right).
Scottish breakfast in the club car next morning (above left). Above right, the Caledonian Sleeper lounge in Inverness.
Above right, the Caledonian Sleeper lounge is in this building across the road (and a bit to the left) from the station exit. Above right, the lounge is open to passengers in Club & Caledonian Double rooms, it can be used from the sleeper arrival until just before the train to Thurso leaves. Tea, coffee, WiFi, biscuits and soft drinks. There are showers & toilets.
Step 2, take the Far North Line to Thurso
The Far North Line is Britain's most northerly branch line, completed in 1874. Trains run the 154 miles from Inverness to Thurso four times a day Monday-Saturday, once a day on Sundays. At the time I write this, there's a train leaving Inverness at 10:41 Monday-Saturdays, arriving Thurso 14:24, in plenty of time to connect with the evening ferry to Orkney. The train is an air-conditioned 2-car unit with comfortable seats, tables, toilet, luggage racks, and (usually) a refreshment trolley. For the best views, sit on the right hand side of the train going north from Inverness. Going south from Thurso, also sit on the right hand side as the train changes direction at Georgemas Junction.
I recommend downloading this window-gazer's guide at the Friends of the Far North Line website. More about the Far North Line.
Buy tickets at www.scotrail.co.uk or www.thetrainline.com.
Above, Inverness station and next to it to the right, the Royal Highland Hotel.
Inverness station, concourse and ticket gates.
Above, the 10:41 to Thurso is ready to leave.
Soon after leaving Inverness station, the train crosses the River Ness (above right).
Shortly after crossing the Ness, the train crosses the Clachnaharry Swing Bridge over the Caledonian Canal, speed limit 10 mph.
The train runs along the Beauly Firth to Muir of Ord and Dingwall, where the line to Kyle of Lochalsh diverges to the west. It then runs along Cromarty Firth.
Above, the January Sun gives way to mist. At Dornoch Firth, the A9 road crosses on an infamous modern road bridge built without provision for the railway. The trains have to head inland to go around the end of the firth.
Above left, running alongside the North Sea. Above right, a welcome visit from the refreshment trolley.
Snow-swept hills approaching Georgemas Junction. At Georgemas Junction, the train changes direction and heads for Thurso. Trains on the Far North Line used to split at Georgemas Junction, one portion going to Thurso and another to Wick. Since 2000, trains run from Inverness to Georgemas Junction, then to Thurso, then back through Georgemas Junction to Wick. Similarly, Southbound trains run Wick-Georgemas-Thurso-Georgemas-Inverness.
The train arrives at Thurso.
Thurso, Britain's most northerly railway station. Above right, plaques commemorating the Jellicoe Express in the main hall.
Step 3, walk or taxi from Thurso to Scrabster
In Thurso, it's a 55-minute 2.6 mile walk from the station to the ferry terminal at Scrabster. It's an easy and scenic walk, Google tells you to walk along the main road but you can easily detour along the cliff path, marked Victoria Walk on the map. If you took the late morning train from Inverness, you have plenty of time.
Or take a taxi, but it's best to pre-book: Try Highland Taxis (www.highland.taxi) or Ormlie Taxis (www.ormlietaxis.com).
There's not a lot at Scrabster other than the harbour, freight docks, fishing boats and the Northlink Ferries terminal, but you can kill time if you need to with a pint or two at the Ferry Inn, see location map. The Ferry Inn also has accommodation if you need to stay in Scrabster.
Foot passengers check in at the new Northlink Ferries terminal at the very far end of the harbour area. Ignore the old Northlink Ferries terminal building just beyond the Ferry Inn, keep going to the furthest pier!
Above, walking from Thurso to Scrabster. I've just left Thurso on the cliff walk, you can see Scrabster in the distance, 2 miles away.
The Ferry Inn at Scrabster, the place to stop for a pint and wait for the ferry.
Step 4, Scrabster to Stromness by ferry
The ferry from Scrabster to Stromness in Orkney sails morning and evening, with an additional lunchtime sailing in summer. The crossing takes just 1h30. If you take the 10:41 train from Inverness, you'll make the 19:00 ferry arriving Stromness at 20:30. In summer, you can take the 07:00 train from Inverness to connect with the 13:15 sailing from Scrabster arriving Stromness at 14:45. Book the ferry at www.northlinkferries.co.uk.
The Northlink Ferries terminal at Scrabster, 2.6 miles from Thurso station.
Above left, open deck aft on Northlink Ferries m/v Hamnavoe at Scrabster. Above right, in the Magnus lounge main dishes can be served at your seat.
Above, the premium Magnus Lounge on the ferry offers complimentary drinks, snacks and Danish pastries. Recommended!
Above, the m/v Hamnavoe arrived at Stromness
Foot passengers disembark via the gangway.
In January, it was dark when the evening ferry sailed. But the ferry passes right by the famous Old Man of Hoy, seen here on my return crossing.
Above, Stromness ferry terminal in daylight. Taken from the main street in Stromness, 2 minutes' walk from the Royal Hotel.
Hotels in Stromness
Northlink Ferries 'Bed & Breakfast': If you're leaving Stromness on the early-morning 06:30 ferry to Scrabster, you can reserve a cabin aboard the m/v Hamnavoe and stay on board the night before, boarding from 21:30 to 23:30. This is Northlink Ferries 'Bed & Breakfast' service, see www.northlinkferries.co.uk.
Royal Hotel, Stromness: I can personally recommend the clean & comfortable Royal Hotel on the main street in the centre of Stromness, just 4 minutes walk from Stromness ferry terminal. It does a superb Scottish cooked breakfast. Sadly, the once-grand Stromness Hotel has become run-down with poor reviews and was closed when I was there, but you'll see this impressive building as you walk to the Royal.
Bus X1 from Stromness to Kirkwall
Buses link Stromness ferry terminal and Kirkwall at least every hour through the day, see www.orkney.gov.uk/...kirkwall-and-stromness/ (please let me know if that link changes). This is route X1, the principal bus route on Orkney. You pay the driver using any contactless bank card, easy! In Stromness, buses stop right outside the main exit from the Northlink Ferries terminal. In Kirkwall, buses arrive at/leave from the bus travel centre, see location map.
Bus X1 calls at Stenness Garage, from where (if you're reasonably fit) you can walk to the Stones of Stenness & Ring of Brodgar. Bus X1 continues beyond Kirkwall to St Margaret's Hope, passing over Churchill Barrier number 1 and stopping near the Italian Chapel.
To check bus times & prices use www.stagecoachbus.com/plan-a-journey.
Above, an X1 bus to Stromness at Kirkwall's bus travel centre.
Hotels in Kirkwall
Kirkwall Hotel, Kirkwall: On the harbour-front road in the centre of Kirkwall, the Kirkwall Hotel is a 5-minute walk from the Travel Centre where the bus from Stromness arrives, a 7-minute walk from St Magnus Cathedral. A hotel I can personally recommend, with character, comfortable rooms, and excellent local kippers on the menu for breakfast.
Below left, the hotel's classic revolving door. Below right, the perfect breakfast kipper.
Things to see in Orkney
Orkney (always now used in the singular) is different from the rest of Scotland's highlands & islands. Ruled by Viking earls of Norway until the late 15th century, you'll find no kilts or Gaelic here - there's a reason a Norseman features on the side of the ferry that brings you here! Orkney consists of some 70 islands, 20 of which are inhabited, and the main island is referred to (with wonderful 'Fog in the Channel, Continent cut off' vibes) as The Mainland. Stromness and Kirkwall are on the Mainland.
St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall
In the centre of Kirkwall, Orkney's main town, St Magnus Cathedral is unlike any other in Great Britain. Construction started in 1137, when Orkney was still part of the Kingdom of Norway, although mason's marks suggest craftsmen were employed who'd previously worked on cathedrals in the north of Britain. The cathedral is named after the Viking Earl and martyr St Magnus, whose remains were found in 1919 in a box hidden behind a stone in a pillar near the choir. St Magnus' remains were placed back in the pillar in 1926. More about St Magnus Cathedral. Story of Viking Earl & martyr St Magnus.
Above: St Magnus Cathedral, main entrance.
Above left: Inside St Magnus Cathedral. Above right: The Royal Oak memorial and ship's bell, raised from the wreck.
Above left: HMS Royal Oak, book of names. Above right: The bishop's palace, across the road from the cathedral.
Above: In 1919, bones believed to belong to St Magnus were found hidden behind one of the stones in this pillar, the stone with a small cross carved on it. The bones were placed back behind this stone in 1926 and remain there to this day. Story of Viking Earl & martyr St Magnus.
The sinking of HMS Royal Oak
On 14 October 1939, German U-boat U47 successfully penetrated Scapa Flow's defences. Fortunately, most of the home fleet was out on manoeuvres, but the U47 found and torpedoed the veteran battleship HMS Royal Oak with the loss of over 800 lives. Marked by a buoy (not visible in the murky January weather when the photo below as taken), the wreck lies upside down in just 100 feet of water, roughly in line with the row of telephone poles. More about the sinking of HMS Royal Oak.
There is a memorial with the ship's bell in St Magnus' Cathedral, and a memorial on shore at Scapa.
Above, looking east towards the wreck site.
Below, the Royal Oak memorial at Scapa Beach, a 40-minute 1.8 mile walk from Kirkwall or an 11-minute ride on hourly bus 9 from Kirkwall travel centre.
Highland Park whisky distillery
Highland Park is Orkney's most famous brand of whisky, www.highlandparkwhisky.com. It's just southeast of Kirkwall on the road towards Churchill Barrier 1 and the Italian Chapel, a 30-minute 1.2 mile walk from Kirkwall town centre.
The Churchill Barriers
Between 1940 and 1944, the sinking of the Royal Oak prompted the construction of causeways in four locations between islands surrounding Scapa Flow, to block access to enemy submarines. The photo below shows Barrier 1 between Orkney's mainland and the isle of Lamb Holm, this was the channel used by the U47 to enter Scapa Flow. Each Churchill Barrier has a road over the top, improving communications around Orkney to this day. The X1 bus crosses this Churchill Barrier on its way to the Italian chapel. More about the Churchill Barriers.
The Italian Chapel
The Churchill Barriers were built with the help of Italian prisoners of war who had been captured in North Africa and taken to Orkney. Housed in a camp on the islet of Lamb Holm, a number of them converted two Nissen huts into an exquisitely-painted chapel. You can still see the foundations of the PoW accommodation blocks to the right of the chapel. See www.orkney.com/listings/the-italian-chapel.
To reach the Italian Chapel, take bus X1 from Stromness or Kirkwall, the bus stop is on the main road just after crossing Churchill Barrier number 1.
Above & below: The Italian Chapel.
Scapa Flow & the WW1 German fleet
A vast natural anchorage enclosed by a number of Orkney's islands, Scapa Flow was the Royal Navy's home base throughout both world wars. At the end of WW1, the German fleet was interned here and in 1919 German sailors successfully scuttled over 50 of the 70-odd German warships. Most of these ships lie scattered on the sea bed, more or less to the right of the oil rig visible in the photo below. More about the scuttling of the German fleet.
Standing Stones of Stenness
5 miles from Stromness, the stone circle at Stenness is quite possibly the oldest henge in the British Isles. Thought to date from around 3,100 BC, it may pre-date Stonehenge by some 1,000 years! More about the Standing Stones of Stenness.
The Stones of Stenness are an 18-minute 0.8 mile walk from Stenness Garage bus stop, served by the hourly Stromness-Kirkwall bus X1.
Ring of Brodgar
Dating from 2,500-2,000 BC, the Ring of Brodgar is a Neolithic henge some 6 miles from Stromness, now part of Orkney's UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unlike the Stones of Stenness, the remains of the ditch surrounding the stone circle can still be seen. More about the Ring of Brodgar.
The Ring of Brodgar is a 46-minute 2.1 mile walk from Stenness Garage bus stop, served by the hourly Stromness-Kirkwall bus X1. It's a 28-minute 1.3 mile walk from the Stones of Stenness.
Alternative ferry route: Aberdeen-Kirkwall
Northlink Ferries also sail from Aberdeen to Kirkwall (New Hatston Pier, 2 miles from the centre) 3 or 4 times a week, a 6h early evening crossing, cabins and premium Magnus lounge available. Southbound, the ferry sails overnight. Check sailing dates & times at www.northlinkferries.co.uk. Using this route, a same-day journey is possible from Edinburgh or Glasgow to Orkney.