Naples' central transport hub...
Naples has one main central station, Napoli Centrale. It's located in the heart of the city on Piazza Garibaldi, the square named after the Italian general & revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi. It's three stations in one: A mainline terminus at ground level called Napoli Centrale, an underground station called Napoli Piazza Garibaldi with two underground through platforms for Trenitalia's metropolitan trains & metro line 1, and another underground station with 4 platforms for EAV's narrow-gauge Circumvesuviana trains to Herculaneum, Pompeii & Sorrento, also called Napoli Piazza Garibaldi, but signposted from Naples Centrale concourse as Circumvesuviana. There's been a station here since 1866, but the current Naples Centrale station was designed in 1954 and opened in 1966. It was modernised 2005-2010.
Station overview: Location map
There's a plan of the station at www.gsretail.it/en/network/napoli-centrale - click EN for English.
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Naples Centrale, looking east from the excellent Unahotel Napoli. In the foreground is the covered retail mall on the south side of Piazza Garibaldi. The station building is behind it, with platforms 2-24 visible behind that. Courtesy of @rail_away.
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Naples Centrale facade & main entrance taken from Piazza Garibaldi. Courtesy of Tim Burford.
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Main entrance from the Piazza Garibaldi. The taxi rank is just outside. Courtesy of @nonstopeurotrip.
The concourse, inside the main entrance. Courtesy of Tim Burford.
Circulating area behind the platforms, once through the ticket check. A brace of Frecciarossa 500s with an Italo train in the background. Courtesy of Louise Kelly
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The platforms, numbered 2 to 24 left to right. Courtesy of Tim Burford
Which platform for your train?
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Naples Centrale mainline station is a terminus with platforms numbered 2 to 24 left to right as you look towards the trains.
Platforms 5-24 are lined up in a neat row behind the main concourse, platforms 2-4 are at the north end, set back a bit and accessed along platform 5. There's no platform 1. All of Trenitalia's high-speed, intercity & sleeper trains use these dead-end platforms.
There's a circulating area immediately behind the buffer stops so you can walk between platforms to change trains without going through the ticket check onto the main concourse.
A glass partition separates the platform area from the concourse with several entry points where there's a simple ticket check for people entering the platform area. It's mainly intended to control access to the platforms for non-travelling undesirables, I usually find that anything vaguely ticket-like waved in their general direction gets you through.
Automatic ticket gates are likely be installed at some point, as & when these appear you will simply scan your ticket QR code on your phone or printout to access the platforms.
The station departure boards shows which platform each train leaves from and there are train departure indicators on every platform. You can walk between any two platforms in just 2 or 3 minutes, with easy level access between all platforms, concourse and streets outside.
See the plan of the station & platforms 2-24 at www.gsretail.it/en/network/napoli-centrale, click EN for English.
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Check your departure platform on your phone
Stay one step ahead! If you go to www.viaggiatreno.it/infomobilita/index.jsp on your phone and select Napoli Centrale you'll see a list of departures with the planned platform number (Binario previsto) for Trenitalia trains (but not Italo trains) even before the actual platform (Binario reale) is announced on the station departure boards. Just remember that they can sometimes switch platforms on the day.
Alternatively, you can see actual departure platforms for all trains including Italo by selecting Napoli Centrale at www.rfi.it/en/stations/station-page/quality-services/Public-information/Live-departures-Arrivals-Monitor.html.
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Naples Piazza Garibaldi station: This is located underground beneath Naples Centrale, just two platforms numbered 1 & 2 served by Trenitalia's Metropolitan trains, with the platforms for Metro line 1 further underground. Most visitors will only need to go here if taking metro line 1 to one of Naples' ferry terminals or Naples Archaeological Museum, or a Trenitalia regional train to Trenitalia's Pompei station if they choose to reach Pompeii that way rather than using the Circumvesuviana.
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Circumvesuviana station, also known as Piazza Garibaldi: Located underground alongside Naples Centrale, this is the station for the frequent narrow-gauge Circumvesuviana trains to Ercolano (Herculaneum), Pompeii & Sorrento run by local transit authority EAV, www.eavsrl.it. It's clearly-marked, follow the signs to Circumvesuviana and/or EAV. It's a through station, the Circumvesuviana trains start & finish one stop away at Naples Porta Nolana terminus, just a few hundred metres from Naples Centrale.
About changing trains in Naples
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Changing between two mainline trains is straightforward. It's a terminus so there's easy level access between platforms 2-24, you can walk between platforms around the back of the buffer stops without passing through the ticket check. It only takes a few minutes to change trains, even if you were changing from platform 2 to platform 24. Just make sure you allow for any delay to your first train - if a booking website suggests a connection, it will be a reasonable one, but if it's mission-critical I'd allow more time.
Tip: When connecting between two Trenitalia trains (for example, an Intercity from Sicily into a Frecciarossa high-speed train to Rome or Milan) as long as the scheduled connection is over 15 minutes, you are entitled to later onward travel at no charge if a delay means a missed connection. Online systems will only suggest valid connections. See Trenitalia staff at the help desk if you need reserved seats on a later train. However, that does not apply if you were connecting from a Trenitalia train into a privately-run Italo high-speed train as you'd then be using two different companies.
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Changing from a mainline train into a Circumvesuviana train to Herculaneum, Pompeii or Sorrento is also straightforward. It takes around 5 minutes to step off a high-speed, intercity or sleeper train on platforms 2-24, walk onto the main concourse, go down the escalators or steps to the EAV Circumvesuviana platforms. Buy a Circumvesuviana ticket at the EAV ticket office, located next to the automatic ticket gates onto the Circumvesuviana platforms. Then go onto the platform and hop on the next train, they usually leave every 30 minutes. There are two possible southbound platforms, the departure screens will show which one to use for the next train south to Herculaneum, Pompeii & Sorrento.
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Changing from the Circumvesuviana onto a mainline train is also simple and takes only minutes, but in this case tickets are usually for a specific mainline train which you don't want to miss, so allow plenty of time just in case of delay.
Left luggage, WiFi, ATMs, safety & security
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There's a left luggage office if you need to leave your bags, on the concourse at the platform 2 end, follow the signs for deposito bagagli. It's privately run by KiPoint. For prices & opening times see the left luggage page.
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The station does not currently have free WiFi.
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There are ATMs in various locations around the station.
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Naples is a great city and I have never felt unsafe or at risk there, certainly not in the well-lit and well-staffed Naples Centrale, even at night. But as in any busy place, be aware of your surroundings, no wallets carelessly sticking out of back pockets and so on.
Ticket office & ticket machines
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The Trenitalia ticket office is in the middle of the main concourse, roughly level with platform 18. It's marked Biglietteria.
It's often quicker to use the Trenitalia self-service ticket machines dotted around the station which can sell high-speed & mainline tickets (including reservations) and regional tickets. They have a touch screen with English language facility.
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Italo has its own clearly-marked ticket office, on the main concourse roughly level with platform 11.
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The ticket office for the Circumvesuviana railway is underground, adjacent to the Circumvesuviana platforms and marked EAV, which is the local transit authority. Buy tickets to Herculaneum, Pompeii or Sorrento here.
Executive & Club class lounges
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Trenitalia has a lounge for Executive class & Business Salottino passengers on its Frecciarossa trains, located on the main concourse.
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Italo has a lounge for Club class passengers on its Italo trains, also located on the main concourse. You can use it from 3 hours before your train departs. In Smart & Prima classes, you may be able to add lounge access when you buy your ticket for an extra €5-€10.
Somewhere to eat & drink
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There are various eateries inside the station, including a Burger King and a couple of decent cafes on the concourse.
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For a classic Italian meal, try Mimi alla Ferrovia, www.mimiallaferrovia.it, so far recommended by one seat 61 correspondent. Various celebrities have eaten here, from Silvio Berlusconi to opera singer José Carreras. It's 8 minutes walk from Napoli Centrale, just round the corner from the opposite end of the Piazza Garibaldi, see walking map.
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To buy excellent sfogliatelle (traditional Neapolitan pastries), go to a bakery called Attanasio, just off the Piazza Garibaldi 4 minutes walk from Naples Centrale, see walking map. It appears to be where the locals get theirs!
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If you eat at Mimi's, buy a sfoggiatella from Attanasio or have any other suggestion for a meal, coffee or beer let me know!
Supermarkets
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There is a Conad supermarket reached from the main concourse along a passageway at the platform 24 end. It can also be accessed from outside the station, at the southern end of the facade.
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For more choice & quality, there's a Supermercati Superò on Corso Novara, 3 minutes walk north of the station, see walking map.
Hotels near Naples Centrale
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There are lots of hotels near Naples Centrale if you need to stay overnight between trains.
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The Starhotel Terminus is just across the road from the station, gets great reviews and has a roof terrace with views over the Bay of Naples.
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The Hotel Potenza is only a little further into the Piazza Garibaldi, cheaper, also with good reviews.
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The Unahotel Napoli is highly recommended, on Piazza Mancini overlooking Piazza Garibaldi (the photo at the top of this page was taken from that hotel).
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Also consider the Pit Stop Napoli Centrale.
Local transport: Walking, metro, taxis
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Walking...
Naples Centrale to Naples Archaeological museum: 2.2 km, 29 minutes walk, see walking map.
Naples Centrale to Beverello ferry terminal for ferries to Capri, Ischia: 2.7 km, 34 minutes walk, see walking map.
Naples Centrale to ferry terminal for ferries to Palermo: 2.0 km, 26 minutes walk, see walking map.
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Metro...
Naples has a limited metro network, see www.anm.it. Metro Line 1 goes from Naples Piazza Garibaldi station (beneath Naples Centrale) to Universita (closest metro station to the ferry port for Palermo), Municipio (closest to Beverello ferry for for Capri etc.) and Museo (closest to the Naples Archaeological Museum).
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Taxis: For a taxi fare calculator see www.taxifarefinder.com/main.php?city=Naples-Italy. Taxis are usually plentiful outside the main exit.
Circumvesuviana Railway: Naples to Herculaneum, Pompeii & Sorrento
The little narrow-gauge Circumvesuviana Railway runs from Naples to Ecolano (Herculaneum), Pompeii Villa Dei Misteri & Sorrento, usually with a train every 30 minutes. They have several other lines, but this is clearly the most important for travellers. It's run by local transport authority EAV, www.eavsrl.it. Just buy a ticket at the EAV ticket office (reached immediately before the Circumvesuviana platforms), it's a metro-style turn-up-and-go service. The trains are usually graffiti'd and can be crowded at peak times, but in spite of that it's a lovely ride around the Bay of Naples, with views of Vesuvius on one side and of the Bay on the other. Keep an eye on your valuables, it's not a place for leaving a wallet sticking out of back pockets, but having said that, I've never had any problem so don't let it put you off. More about visiting Pompeii.