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Madrid to Lisbon by train...
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Incredibly, there is now no direct train between Madrid & Lisbon, two adjacent EU capitals. The overnight sleeper train Trenhotel Lusitania was temporarily suspended in March 2020 due to the Covid-19 pandemic, and Renfe (Spanish Railways) have used this as an excuse to discontinue it permanently. New fast lines are under construction in both Spain & Portugal, we may yet see a Lisbon-Madrid high-speed train from 2023 or 2024. But in the meantime, you can travel between Madrid & Lisbon using a 3-train combo with 2 bookings and 3 tickets, not fast, but a comfortable, interesting and scenic ride. Feedback or photos if you take this route would be appreciated.
COVID-19 update: This service should be running, check the Madrid-Badajoz train online. More COVID-19 travel info.
Madrid ► Lisbon
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Step 1, travel from Madrid to Badajoz Mondays-Saturdays only, leaving Madrid Atocha Cercanias at 08:04 arriving Badajoz at 13:26.
The train is a smart air-conditioned series 599 train, standard class only, power sockets at all seats, there are vending machines but no cafe-bar so bring your own food and drink. Madrid Atocha Cercanias simply means Atocha's suburban through platforms, as opposed to the terminus platforms used by AVEs.
There's a cafe at Badajoz station which you can use between trains, or have lunch in the town.
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Step 2, travel from Badajoz to Entroncamento by regional train, leaving Badajoz at 16:24 and arriving Entroncamento at 18:25.
The train is a single-coach Allan railcar, built in 1954-55 but completely modernised in 2000 and fully air-conditioned. There is no 1st class or catering, so bring your own food & drink. Remember to put your watch back one hour after the train crosses the border into Portugal.
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Step 3, travel from Entroncamento to Lisbon by Alfa Pendular train leaving Entroncamento at 19:42 and arriving Lisbon Santa Apolonia at 20:40.
There's an earlier connection by regional train which will get you to Lisbon at 20:20, but I'd have a coffee in Entroncamento and take the swish all-reserved Alfa Pendular, Portugal's premier train. But it's your call!
Lisbon ► Madrid
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Step 1, travel from Lisbon to Entroncamento by InterCity train, leaving Lisbon Santa Apolonia at 08:15 & arriving Entroncamento at 09:23.
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Step 2, travel from Entroncamento to Badajoz in Spain by regional train leaving Entroncamento at 10:12 and arriving in Badajoz at 14:16.
Remember that Spanish time is 1 hour ahead of Portuguese time! Have a late lunch in Badajoz. The train is a single-coach air-conditioned Allan railcar, built in 1954-55 but completely modernised in 2000. There is no 1st class or catering on this train, feel free to bring your own food and drink.
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Step 3, travel from Badajoz to Madrid daily except Saturdays by comfortable air-conditioned Media Distancia express, leaving Badajoz at 16:45 and arriving at Madrid Atocha Cercanias (cercanias just means suburban platforms) at 21:55.
The train is a smart air-conditioned series 599 train, standard class only, power sockets at all seats, there are vending machines but no cafe-bar so bring your own food and drink. There's a cafe at Badajoz station which you can use between trains.
Times can vary, so check times for your date online at www.thetrainline.com or www.raileurope.com or www.renfe.com, but don't look too far ahead, times are often only loaded 60 days or less before departure.
There's also a daily 14:30 regional train from Badajoz to Merida which connects into a Merida-Madrid Media Distancia express arriving Madrid Atocha at 20:09. The Spanish train will not be held if the Portuguese train is late, so personally I'd have lunch in Badajoz and book the later direct train (if it's available), but as it's reported that the railcar keeps pretty good time, you could take this earlier train, accepting that if there's a delay you'll have to rebook the later direct one.
How much does it cost?
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Madrid to Badajoz or vice versa costs €34.10 whether you book in advance or buy on the day.
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Badajoz to Entroncamento or vice versa costs €12.30. Fixed price, cannot sell out.
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Entroncamento to Lisbon or vice versa costs €13 in 2nd class or €17 in 1st class. If you book in advance at www.cp.pt, fares start at €6 in 2nd class or €12.50 in 1st class.
How to buy tickets...
The easy way to buy tickets is using Omio.com, this is currently the only ticket website that links to both the Spanish and Portuguese ticketing systems so you can buy both tickets in one place, in plain English, in €, £ or $. However, it cannot book the whole trip as one transaction, you need to split the booking as shown below:
Westbound from Madrid to Lisbon...
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Step 1, go to Omio.com and book the morning train from Madrid to Badajoz.
Booking normally open 60 days ahead, but sometimes less than that. You print your own ticket.
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Step 2, use Omio.com again to book from Badajoz to Lisbon - Santa Apolonia.
Booking normally open 60 days ahead. You print your own ticket.
Tip: You'll see more than 1 option in the search results. I'd go for the option involving the regional train from Badajoz plus a premium Alfa Pendular train to Lisbon (with time for a coffee in Entroncamento), but by all means choose the option involving the regional train from Badajoz plus another regional train, it won't be as swish but you'll get to Lisbon 20 minutes earlier.
Eastbound from Lisbon to Madrid...
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Step 1, use Omio.com to book from Lisbon - Santa Apolonia to Badajoz.
Booking normally open 60 days ahead. You print your own ticket.
Tip: You'll see more than 1 option in the search results. I'd go for the 08:15 Intercity + regional train to Badajoz.
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Step 2, go to Omio.com and book the afternoon train from Badajoz to Madrid
Booking normally open 60 days ahead, but sometimes less than that. You print your own ticket.
How to buy tickets, another way...
Westbound from Madrid to Lisbon...
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Step 1, book the train from Madrid to Badajoz at the Spanish Railways website www.renfe.com (quite fiddly, in €, can reject some overseas credit cards). It's easier to use www.thetrainline.com or www.raileurope.com (in €, £ or $, small booking fee).
Booking should open 60 days ahead but sometimes less than that. You print your own ticket.
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Step 2, book the trains from Badajoz to Lisbon at the Portuguese Railways website www.cp.pt.
Booking usually opens 60 days ahead. You print your own ticket.
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Alternatively, you can buy the Madrid-Badajoz ticket at the station in Madrid, there are usually places available even on the day, although all seats are reserved so the train can sell out at busy times such as Christmas & other holiday periods.
Then just board the railcar from Badajoz to Entroncamento and pay the conductor, this is not a problem. The railcar is never full, there are always seats, you sit where you like, it can't sell out. Easy! Incidentally, the ticket office in Badajoz is run by Spanish Railways and cannot sell tickets for this train as it's run by Portuguese Railways.
You can then buy the onward ticket from Entroncamento to Lisbon at the station when you get to Entroncamento, also not a problem.
Eastbound from Lisbon to Madrid...
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Step 1, book the trains from Lisbon to Badajoz at the Portuguese Railways website www.cp.pt.
Booking usually opens 60 days ahead. You print your own ticket.
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Step 2, book the train from Badajoz to Madrid at the Spanish Railways website www.renfe.com (quite fiddly, in €, can reject some overseas credit cards). It's easier to use www.thetrainline.com or www.raileurope.com (in €, £ or $, small booking fee).
Booking should open 60 days ahead but sometimes less than that. You print your own ticket.
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Alternatively, you can buy a ticket at the station in Lisbon either on the day or a day or two ahead.
Then you can buy a Badajoz-Madrid ticket at the station in Badajoz, there are usually places available even on the day, although all seats are reserved so the train can sell out at busy times such as Christmas & other holiday periods.
Interrail & Eurail passes...
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These trains are all covered by Interrail & Eurail as they're run by national operators Renfe & CP. You'll need a seat reservation between Madrid & Badajoz and between Entroncamento & Lisbon, each costs a few euros. Passholder reservations cannot be made online, so make the Renfe reservation at the station in Madrid or Badajoz or at any Renfe station. Make the Portuguese reservation at Lisbon, Entroncamento or at any CP station. You can make them on the day of travel easily enough, places are usually available. You cannot make Portuguese CP reservations at Spanish Renfe stations, although as CP has Renfe's booking system installed in Lisbon it may be possible to make Spanish reservations in Lisbon.
Route map...
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Click for larger map. Highlighted = Madrid-Lisbon route. Green = scenic sections. Red = high-speed line
Reproduced with kind permission of the European Rail Timetable people. Buy a copy of the European Rail Map at www.europeanrailtimetable.eu.
What's the journey like?
Step 1, Madrid to Badajoz
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This is the modern air-conditioned train to Badajoz, at Madrid Atocha. Courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com. |
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Wonderful arid scenery on the Spanish plateau between Madrid & Badajoz. Photo courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com. |
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Changing trains at Badajoz station. The express from Madrid to Badajoz is on the left, the single-car Allan Railcar from Badajoz to Entroncamento is on the right.. Photo courtesy of Giles Baker. |
Step 2, Badajoz to Entroncamento
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The single-coach Allan railcar from Badajoz to Entroncamento. It's comfortable and looks modern, but in fact dates from 1954-55. 2nd class only. Bring your own food & drink. Photo courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com |
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Castle, seen from the Badajoz to Entroncamento railcar.. Photo courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com. |
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The railcar pauses at wayside stations such as Elvas, with lovely tiling. Courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com. |
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Step 3, Entroncamento to Lisbon
Westbound, there are two possible connections, an earlier but slower regional train which admittedly gets you to Lisbon 20 minutes earlier, or a later but faster connection by Alfa Pendular train like the one shown below. I'd have a cup of coffee or a beer in Entroncamento and take the swisher train! Eastbound, the Lisbon to Entroncamento connection is by Intercity train.
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Alfa Pendular trains reach 220 km/h (136 mph) between Lisbon & Porto. Courtesy of www.youtube.com/c/nonstopeurotrip. |
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1st class leather seats on an Alfa Pendular train, arranged 2+1 across the car width. Photo courtesy of @rexybexy |
Lisbon Santa Apolonia station... Click for city map
For the city centre, you want Lisbon Santa Apolonia station, the train's terminus. If you're heading to Faro & the Algarve, these trains start at Lisbon Oriente station so change there. Trains from Lisbon to Porto usually leave from Santa Apolonia and also call at Oriente.
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Lisbon's central Santa Apolonia station. Photos courtesy of Ian Moffat. |
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