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Madrid to Lisbon by train... |
Incredibly, there is now no direct train between Madrid & Lisbon, two adjacent EU capitals. The overnight sleeper train Trenhotel Lusitania was temporarily cancelled in March 2020 due to the Covid-19 pandemic, and Renfe (Spanish Railways) have used this as an excuse to discontinue it permanently. New fast lines are under construction in both Spain & Portugal, we may yet see a Lisbon-Madrid high-speed train from 2023 or 2024. But in the meantime, you can travel between Madrid & Lisbon using a 3-train combo with 2 bookings and 3 tickets, not fast, but a comfortable, interesting and scenic ride. Feedback or photos if you take this route would be appreciated.
COVID-19 update: This service should now be running, but check the Madrid-Badajoz train online. More COVID-19 travel info.
Madrid ►Lisbon
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Step 1, travel from Madrid to Badajoz Mondays-Saturdays only, leaving Madrid Atocha Cercanias at 08:04 arriving Badajoz at 13:57.
The train is a smart air-conditioned series 599 train, Turista class only with power sockets at all seats, there are vending machines but no cafe-bar so bring your own food and drink. Madrid Atocha Cercanias simply means Atocha's suburban through platforms, as opposed to the terminus platforms used by AVEs. There's a cafe at Badajoz station which you can use between trains, or have lunch in the town.
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Step 2, travel from Badajoz to Entroncamento by regional train, leaving Badajoz at 16:24 and arriving in Entroncamento at 18:25.
The train is a single-coach air-conditioned Allan railcar, built in 1954-55 but completely modernised in 2000. There is no 1st class or catering on this train, so bring your own food and drink. Remember to put your watch back one hour after the train crosses the border into Portugal.
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Step 3, travel from Entroncamento to Lisbon by InterCity train leaving Entroncamento at 18:58 and arriving Lisbon Santa Apolonia at 20:00.
Lisbon ► Madrid
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Step 1, travel from Lisbon to Entroncamento by InterCity train, leaving Lisbon Santa Apolonia at 08:30 and arriving Entroncamento at 09:31.
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Step 2, travel from Entroncamento to Badajoz in Spain by regional train leaving Entroncamento at 10:12 and arriving in Badajoz at 14:16.
Remember that Spanish time is 1 hour ahead of Portuguese time! Have a late lunch in Badajoz. The train is a single-coach air-conditioned Allan railcar, built in 1954-55 but completely modernised in 2000. There is no 1st class or catering on this train, feel free to bring your own food and drink.
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Step 3, travel from Badajoz to Madrid daily except Saturdays by comfortable air-conditioned Media Distancia express, leaving Badajoz at 17:20 and arriving at Madrid Atocha Cercanias (cercanias just means suburban platforms) at 22:55.
The train is a smart air-conditioned series 599 train, Turista class only, with power sockets at all seats, there are vending machines but no cafe-bar so bring your own food and drink. There's a cafe at Badajoz station which you can use between trains.
Incidentally, there's also a daily 14:25 regional train from Badajoz to Merida which connects into a Merida-Madrid Media Distancia express arriving Madrid Atocha at 20:09. The connection in Badajoz is tight and the Spanish train will not be held if the Portuguese train is late. Personally I'd have lunch in Badajoz and book the later direct train, but as it's reported that the railcar keeps pretty good time, you could take this earlier train, accepting that if there's a delay you'll have to rebook the later direct one.
How much does it cost?
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Madrid to Badajoz or vice versa costs €34.10 whether you book in advance or buy on the day.
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Badajoz to Entroncamento or vice versa costs €12.30. Fixed price, cannot sell out.
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Entroncamento to Lisbon or vice versa costs €13 in 2nd class or €17 in 1st class. If you book in advance at www.cp.pt, fares start at €6 in 2nd class or €12.50 in 1st class.
How to buy tickets
Westbound from Madrid to Lisbon...
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Step 1, book the train from Madrid to Badajoz at www.thetrainline.com or www.raileurope.com (both easy to use, recommended, in €, £ or $, small booking fee) or www.renfe.com (much more fiddly, in €, may reject some overseas credit cards).
Booking should open 60 days ahead but sometimes less than that. You print your own ticket. Alternatively, buy at the station in Madrid, there are usually places available even on the day, although all seats are reserved so the train can sell out at busy times, for example Christmas & other holiday periods.
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Step 2, just board the railcar from Badajoz to Entroncamento and pay the conductor. This train cannot be booked online or even at the station in Badajoz. The railcar is never full, there are always seats, you sit where you like. It can't sell out. Easy!
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Step 3, buy the onward ticket from Entroncamento to Lisbon at the station when you get to Entroncamento. Trains are all-reserved so can in theory sell out, but there are plenty of seats and plenty of alternative trains to Lisbon, so you really won't get stuck.
Alternatively, pre-book at the Portuguese Railways website www.cp.pt, you can save a little money with an advance purchase fare. www.cp.pt is the only site that can book Portuguese train mainline tickets online. You print your own ticket.
Eastbound from Lisbon to Madrid...
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Step 1, book from Lisbon to Entroncamento at the Portuguese Railways website www.cp.pt. This is the only site that can book Portuguese train mainline tickets online. You print your own ticket.
Alternatively, you can buy a ticket from Lisbon all the way to Badajoz at the station in Lisbon either on the day or a day or two ahead.
Tip: As CP has Renfe's booking system installed in Lisbon, it may be possible to buy the Badajoz-Madrid ticket at the station in Lisbon, at least if you ask nicely. Feedback appreciated!
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Step 2, buy a ticket from Entroncamento to Badajoz at the station in Lisbon or Entroncamento. This train cannot be booked online, even at the CP website. The railcar is never full, there are always seats, you sit where you like. It can't sell out. Easy!
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Step 3, book the train from Badajoz to Madrid online at www.thetrainline.com or www.raileurope.com (both easy to use, recommended, in €, £ or $, small booking fee) or www.renfe.com (much more fiddly, in €, may reject some overseas credit cards). Booking should open 60 days ahead but sometimes less than that. You print your own ticket.
Alternatively, simply buy at the station in Badajoz, there are usually places available even on the day, although all seats are reserved so the train can sell out at busy times, for example Christmas & other holiday periods.
Interrail & Eurail passes...
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These trains are all covered by Interrail & Eurail as they're run by national operators Renfe & CP. You'll need a seat reservation between Madrid & Badajoz and between Entroncamento & Lisbon, each costs a few euros. Passholder reservations cannot be made online, so make the Renfe reservation at the station in Madrid or Badajoz or at any Renfe station. Make the Portuguese reservation at Lisbon, Entroncamento or at any CP station. You can make them on the day of travel easily enough, places are usually available. You cannot make Portuguese CP reservations at Spanish Renfe stations, although as CP has Renfe's booking system installed in Lisbon it may be possible to make Spanish reservations in Lisbon.
What's the journey like?
Step 1, Madrid to Badajoz
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This is the modern air-conditioned train to Badajoz, at Madrid Atocha. Courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com. |
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Wonderful arid scenery on the Spanish plateau between Madrid & Badajoz. Photo courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com. |
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Changing trains at Badajoz station. The express from Madrid to Badajoz is on the left, the single-car Allan Railcar from Badajoz to Entroncamento is on the right.. Photo courtesy of Giles Baker. |
Step 2, Badajoz to Entroncamento...
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The single-coach Allan railcar from Badajoz to Entroncamento. It's comfortable and looks modern, but in fact dates from 1954-55. 2nd class only. Bring your own food & drink. Photo courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com |
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Castle, seen from the Badajoz to Entroncamento railcar.. Photo courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com. |
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The railcar pauses at wayside stations such as Elvas, with lovely tiling. Courtesy of DiscoverByRail.com. |
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Step 3, Entroncamento to Lisbon
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These have 1st & 2nd class and refreshments. Courtesy of Luisfer |
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Lisbon Santa Apolonia station... Click for city map
For the city centre, you want Lisbon Santa Apolonia station, the train's terminus. If you're heading to Faro & the Algarve, these trains start at Lisbon Oriente station so change there. Trains from Lisbon to Porto usually leave from Santa Apolonia and also call at Oriente.
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Lisbon's central Santa Apolonia station. Photos courtesy of Ian Moffat. |
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